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    candy (1 candy = 356 kg) in October to

    Rs. 28,300 a cand y in July, up 41.5 per

    cent cent.

    The Commission tor Agr icui ture Costs

    arid Prices (CACP) recommends MSP

    for two basic varieties of raw cotton of

    fair-average quaiity.

    Whi ie on is the medium iong stapie

    iength group of 25 mm-27 mm of the

    variety F414/H-777/J-34, the other is the

    iong stapie group of 27.5 mm-32 which

    is of the variety H-4.

    Wh ile d ec idi ng the IVISP, the cos t of

    production and a reasonable margin of

    profits for cotton growers are taken into

    account .

    The count ry produced 31 .5 m i l l ion

    bales (1 bale = 170 kg) in 2007-08

    against 28 mill ion bales in 2006-07.

    However, due to a fall in acreage in the

    US and higher global demand, cotton

    exceeded the target of 8.5 million bales

    and went ahead 10 mill ion bales.

    This had its impact on the cotton prices

    which shot up to historical highs in the

    current cotton year.

    C h i na s lo s s c a b e I n d ia s g a i n

    in text i l e m arket

    A fall in the export of text i le and ap-

    parel from china to the United States

    during January-June, even as the value

    o f I nd ia ' s sh ipm en t s r em a ined un -

    changed,

    is sparking hopes of a shift in

    US orders from the world's most popu-

    lous nation to this country. India, Viet-

    nam,

    Cambodia and Bang lades h are

    among the few count r ies whose ex-

    ports of text i le and apparel to the US

    rose during the first six months of 2008

    while the world's biggest economy goes

    through a downturn.

    However, China, Pakistan, Sr i Lanka

    and Turkey have seen a slowdown in

    offtake from their US suppliers amid a

    drop in the value of the country's textile

    and appa re l im po r t s . One can see

    some shift in orders from China to other

    countries, notably Bangladesh and In-

    dia. We can pos s ibly look at an addi-

    t ional 1 bil l ion of exports hap pen ing

    out of India, the US importers are ag-

    gressively looking at alternate sourcing

    locations and India is high on the buy-

    ers'

    list.

    Official US statistics show that the coun-

    try imported textiles and apparel worth

    24.37 billion during Jan-June 2008, a

    5.1%

    drop compa red to 25.7 billion in

    t he co r re spond ing yea r -ago pe r iod .

    From 2004 to 2007, the country's im-

    ports rose from 46.93 billion to 53.12

    billion.

    India's exports to the US in the

    f i r s t s ix months th i s year remained

    barely cha nge d at 1 .42 bil l ion from

    1.41 bil l ion while Vietnam's grew to

    824 mill ion from 668 mill ion.

    B ang ladesh ' s sh ipm en t s wen t up t o

    832 mi l l ion f rom 811 mi l l ion. The

    value of Chinese textile exports, on the

    other hand , fell from 9.7 billion to 9.5

    b i l l ion ,

    whi le Pak is tan was down to

    1.42 bi l l ion ( 1 .68 bi l l ion) and Sr i

    Lanka 201 million ( 245 million). Tur-

    key c loc ked exports of 264 mi l lion

    from 313 million in the firs t six months

    of 2007.

    Global buyers are looking at the cheap-

    es t -cos t p roducer . Ind ian expor ter s

    need to look at moving up the value

    chain and ensuring better realizat ions

    at a t ime when cur rency movement

    would be highly unpredictable.

    D oom fo r hand loom

    Despite concerted efforts by the Gov-

    ernment of India to protect region-spe-

    c i f ic p roduc t s th rough Geograph ica l

    Indicat ion (GIs) Act, handloom fabrics

    are on the verge of collapse with loom-

    ing threat of fakes, increasing unem-

    ployment and a lack of will on the part

    of textile authorities to correct the flaws

    in the system.

    One only has to talk to those involved

    with the world-famous 'Banarasi ' s arees

    to get a t rue picture. Banarasi saree

    and brocade, one of the product cat-

    egories that fall under the Geographical

    Indicat ion (Gis) Act , today faces the

    biggest threat from pass-offs produced

    by powerlooms of Surat.

    An original Benares saree, which takes

    5-7 days and i s s ix meter s

    long ,

    pr iced at Rs.

    1 500.

    But pass-offs fro

    Surat ' s power looms, wh ich produce

    three sarees in one day, is today avail

    able between Rs. 250-450.

    The pass-offs not only eat into the live

    l ihood of srores of sk i l led Banaras

    weavers , they a l so des t roy the

    we l

    earned recognit ion of the fabric, ove

    six lakh skil led workers who run this Rs

    4,000-crore business today aren't get

    t ing the due wages.

    HWA is a registered society based i

    Varanasi (which the Brit ishers referre

    to as Benaras) th is is c losely work in

    with the weavers of Banarasi sarees.

    K annu r hom e f u rn i sh ing i s ano t he

    handloom category that has been suf

    fering, but due to a lack of interest from

    the younger generation. In fact, it ha

    seen a 50 per cent decline in volume

    in the last few years.

    Despite export ing towels, table clothes

    pil low covers, cushion covers and bed

    s preads to the value of R s. 300 crore

    annual ly , the volume is fast eroding

    due to a declining population O;^weav

    ers.

    3

    Over 50 per cent of the labour engaged

    in this home furnishing business is ove

    50 years of age, the young don't wan

    to follow their family tradit ion, Kannu

    hom e f u rn i sh ing i ndus t r y has seen

    employment f igures dwind l ing down

    from 1 lakh weavers 15 years back to

    just 13,000 weavers now.

    The other threat the handloom industr

    is facing is a lack of wil l in executing

    the Handloom Mark Scheme inst ituted

    by the government of India in June

    2006 to promote handloom products on

    the domest ic as wel l as internat iona

    scene .

    The scheme cal ls for handloom weav

    ers and t raders to apply a 'handloom

    tag'

    on the handwoven products .

    The problem with the scheme is tha

    there is very litt le funds going into the

    promotion of the tags among the weav

    ers.

    M a n - m a d e T e x t il e s i n In d i a S e p t e m b e r 2 0 0 8

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    Also,with each tag coming for 60 paise,

    it comes with a high cost for poor

    weavers - a real indicator of the poor

    margins these weavers earn now.

    Two years after implementation of the

    scheme, only four entrepreneurs in the

    whole of Kannur have applied for the

    scheme.

    Centre to develop text i le hub in

    Coimbatore

    The texti les ministry has identified

    South India Textile Research Associa-

    tion (SITRA) based in Coimbatore for

    development into a centre of excel-

    lence for production of medical textiles

    products (Meditech). The government

    would grant Rs. 10 crore to set up the

    necessary facilities, including interna-

    tionally accredited testing lab, training

    facilities, IT enabled information center

    and video-conferencing facility.

    This maiden effort is part of the

    ministry's strategy to provide one-stop

    infrastructure support for the promotion

    of technical textiles, which have an

    estimated market potential of Rs.

    30,000 crore by the end of 2008-09.

    Coimbatore has been selected as it has

    a large number of hospitals and several

    textile units through-out Tamil Nadu are

    already active players in medical tex-

    tiles.

    The upcoming center is likely to oper-

    ate successfully helping entrepreneurs

    to produce items with existing machin-

    ery and with minimum investment. The

    SITRA centre would be followed by

    three more - The Northern India Textile

    Research Association (NITRA) for pro-

    motion of protective texti les, the

    Mumbai Textile Research Association

    for geo-Textiles, and Synthetic and Art

    Silk Mills Research Association

    (SASMIRA) and Man-made Textile Asso-

    ciation for agro-textiles.

    To promote medical textiles, the SITRA

    centre would go a step further to invite

    internatinal experts to create awareness

    among local entrepreneurs about vari-

    ous products by means of seminars

    and workshops for the local industry. At

    the same time, to expand the limited

    database of technical textiles, the gov-

    ernment has engaged ICRA Manage-

    ment Consultancy Services (ImaCS) to

    conduct a baseline survey of the seg-

    ment. The report of the ImaCS would

    be available next month.

    According to texti le minister

    Shankersingh Vaghela, the government

    has chalked out an action plan to pro-

    mote technical texti les which is an

    emerging area for investment in the

    country and has provided opportunity to

    conventional textile manufacturers to

    diversify into niche knowledge-based

    activity. Being less competitive and

    more profitable than conventional tex-

    tiles,

    the $107 billion global technical

    textile industry is expected to grow to

    $127 billion by 2010.

    Vaghela expressed concern about India

    having a meager 4% share in this mar-

    ket, though it is the second largest tex-

    tile economy after China which ac-

    counts for 20% of the total textile activ-

    ity. To facilitate investments in the area,

    the government has included major

    machinery required for technical tex-

    tiles in the list of items with

    concessional custom duties in the

    modified Technology Upgradation Fund

    Scheme (TUFS) this year.

    Olympics spel ls doom

    for

    tex t i le

    uni ts

    in

    Bh iwand i

    The Beijing Olympic Games has not

    spelled good news for more than 60

    textile processing units in Bhiwandi with

    shortage of dyes and chemicals,

    largely imported from China, fuelling a

    spike in their input costs. The industry

    that depends on Chinese dyes and

    chemicals has been put into a spot

    after the Olympic host shut down its

    local chemical-manufacturing units be-

    cause of pollution concerns.

    In just over three months, prices of

    dyes and chemicals imported from

    China has jumped by more than 200%-

    300%, hurting the only source of liveli-

    hood for more than 200,000 workers

    and weavers of this vital textile city of

    western India.

    If the escalating prices of dyes were not

    enough,

    the rising crude oil prices and

    doublt-digit inflation has made matters

    worse. Dyes, chemicals, electricity,

    water and coals are the major inputs

    for the textile makers of Bhiwandi.

    The abnormal rise in prices of dyes and

    chemicals is due to phenomenal rise in

    crude oil prices, Bhiwandi is one of the

    largest textiles fabric producing centers

    giving employment to nearly two lakh

    weavers and workers. Traders said

    hoarding of key input by a section of

    traders is also hurting their margins.

    The industry has requested the govern-

    ment to consider the industry's demand

    for allotment of A grade coal at a

    subsidized rate.

    According to industry sources coal

    prices w ill cross Rs. 7,000 per tonne by

    December and if this trend will con-

    tinue,

    it will definitely ring the death

    knell for the labour intensive and ex-

    port-oriented industry.

    Text i le industry

    i n the red as de

    mand fa l l s

    Rising raw material prices, lack of

    enough government support and de-

    clining demand in the United States

    have taken a toll on the Indian textile

    industry

    Thirty-three major textile companies

    have reported a cumulative loss of RS.

    152.21 crore in the first quarter (April-

    June) of the current financial year, com-

    pared with a profit of Rs. 144.56 crore

    in the corresponding period of the pre-

    vious financial year.

    Major textile companies like Raymond

    and RSWM Ltd. have reported losses,

    whereas Vardhaman Textiles, Alok In-

    dustries, KPR Mill and Sutlej Textiles

    have witnessed a massive decline in

    their profits.

    The industry's performance was on the

    decline even last year on account of

    the dollar falling nearly 12 per cent

    against the rupee. The prices of differ-

    ent varieties of raw cotton rose nearly

    40 per cent in 2008, with Shankar-6,

    the benchmark, selling at Rs. 28,500

    Septem ber 2008 Man m ade Text i l es in Ind ia

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