The 1950s and 1960s

They are not the same, Rachel Rachel

Christian Dior

New Look premiered in 1947

Rounded shoulder

Nipped in waist

Longer hemline

Christian Dior

Skirts are either

Very Full (up to 25 yards of fabric)

Tightly Fitted

Undergarments

Pointed bosom

Rounded hip

Girdle

Sometimes padding

Undergarments

Make the Waist Smaller

Waist Cincher

Merry Widow

Longline Brassiere

Undergarments

Stiffly starched or nylon petticoat

New Materials

New materials in Undergarments

Nylon

Elastic yarns

Lighter weight

New Materials

“Wash and Wear”

“Permanent Press”

Polyester

Acrylic

Moving to the Suburbs

Casual Dress

Movie Stars

Television

TVs become more common

Current Fashion

Arbiters of Fashion

Paris

Italy

London

Ireland

American Designers

McCardell

Norrel

Charles James

Adrian

Claire McCardell

Norman Norrel

Charles James

Adrian

1947 - Late 1950sNew Look Dominates

Maternity ClothesBecome Fashionable

Sportswear

Bathing Suits

Mother/Daughter Styles

Other active wear

Outerwear

Short, full, or long

Accommodate full skirts

Evening Wear

Most are short

Often strapless

Full skirt

Popular Hair and Hats

Popular Shoes

Popular Accessories

Boys’ UndiesBoxers, Briefs: More Colors!

Men’s StylesBold Look, Grey Flannel Suit, Continental Cut

Men’s Shirts

Blue

Pink

Yellow

White

Men’s Casual DressLeisure Time and Active Sports

Popular Hats and Hairstyle

Fedora AlpineDriving Cap

Pork Pie

D.A. or Duck Tail Hairstyle

Popular Footwear

Blue Suede Loafers OxfordWhite Buckskin

Leisure Shoes

Penny Loafers

Popular Accessories

Boys

Girls

Poodle SkirtsPopular among teenage girls

BeatniksPortrait of Jack Kerouac, by Allen Ginsberg, 1953

Teddy BoysPopular “Rebel” Style in Britain

They’re different from the 1950s

The New Look vs the 60s

Designers like Saint Laurent, Ungaro, and Cardin

Trained under the fashion designers of the 50s

Civil Rights and Social Protest

Anti-War

Women’s Rights

“Street” StylesInfluence Main Stream Fashion

45

“Street” Styles“Mods” “Hippies” “Anti-War Youth” “Punks”

Op Art and Pop ArtInfluence Main Stream Fashion

c. 1960's "Andy Warhol" Campbell's Soup Paper Dress

Fiber Arts

First Nylon Panty Hose

Body Stockings, Soft Cup Bra

• Empire waistlines

• A-Line shapes

• Straight from a yoke at the shoulder.

• Dresses unfitted through the torso and with a flounce joint to the hem of the dress at the knee.

50

Evening Dress

SportswearHot Pants and Hip-Huggers

Outerwear

Pant Suits

X

Evening Dresses

Popular Hats and Hairstyles

19631960’s

Early 1970’s 1970’s1960’s 1960’s 1960’s

Popular Shoes

Popular Accessories

Handbags

Sun glasses

Jewelry

50s to 60s Style SuitThe “Mod” Influence

The PeacockAccording to Esquire Magazine

The Nehru Jacket

Turtlenecks

Sportswear and the Leisure Suit

Blue Jeans Become Main Stream

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C H A P T E R S E V E N T E E N

THE NEW LOOKFashion Conformity Prevails1947 - 1960

For Further Study

Museum and Collection Web Sites with Photographs of Period ClothingTexas Fashion Collection http://web2.unt.edu/tfc_test/main/Index.htm Bata Shoe Museum http://www.batashoemuseum.ca/collectindex.html Bath Museum. Interesting feature of “the dress of the year.” http://www.museumofcostume.co.uk Pictures from Beverly Berks Couture Collection which has extensive collection of images of garments and accessories.

http://www.camrax.comPhiladelphia Museum www.philamuseum.org Metropolitan Museum of Art: Costume Institute found at www.metmuseum.org/works_of_art/collection.asp http://dept.kent.edu/museum/costume/bonc/3timesearch/tstwentieth/20.html Cornell University Costume Collection http://char.txa.cornell.edu/treasures/index.html Drexel University Costume Gallery http://digimuse.cis.drexel.edu/home.html

Fashion DesignersGo to web site http://www.dilpreetbawa.com/historyofashion/fashionframe.html and look at pages devoted to Clai

re McCardell, Norman Norell, Dior, Balenciaga,, and others active between 1947 and 1960.

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C H A P T E R S E V E N T E E N

THE NEW LOOKFashion Conformity Prevails1947 - 1960

For Further Study

New Lookhttp://www.staylace.com/features/fittedfiftiesfinery/ http://www.rom.on.ca/ee/intro.html http://home.att.net/~design-house/history/history_1950.htm

Manufactured Fibershttp://www.fibersource.com/f-tutor/history.htm http://www.mytights.com/mytights/advice/historyofstockings.html

The Young And Fashion Innovationshttp://www.fashion-era.com/1950s/1950s_4_teenagers_teddy_boys.htm#Teddy_Boys_or_Neo-Edwardians_

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C H A P T E R S E V E N T E E N

THE NEW LOOKFashion Conformity Prevails1947 - 1960

Image Credits Photo of the Chrysler Building, Courtesy, www.rumbugger.co.uk

Photo of “Dior's New Look,” 1947, Photographer Willy Maywald, www.proa.org/exhibicion/moda/salas/id_willy_maywald.html

Globe, Fairchild Digital Archive

Vintage Vogue 1940 #2198, Courtesy, The McCall Pattern Company

Vintage Vogue 1944 #2196, Courtesy, The McCall Pattern Company

“Dior’s Dinner Taffeta; your own shoulders, padded hips,” Vogue, April 1947

“New Tweeds” Vogue, December 1942, page 66, from the Author’s collection

Advertisement for Pink Satin Bra from Hickory, Courtesy, www.firstpr.com.au

Spencer’s Catalog Advertisement for Bras and Girdles, Courtesy, www.corsetiere.net

Merry Widow Warner’s Advertisement, September 1955, Ladies Home Journal, Courtesy, www.firstpr.com.au

1955 Advertisement for Briar Rose Petticoats, Courtesy, www.petticoatdreams.com

Bali-hi Advertisement from Vogue, March 1, 1955, page 57, from the Author's collection

Wembley Tie Advertisement, Vogue, June 1956, pages 25 and 26, from the Author's collection

White Stage Advertisement, Vogue, March 1955, page 80, from the Author's collection

Aerial Photo of Suburb, Courtesy, www.stulzphoto.com

Movie Magazine Images, Courtesy, www.classichollywoodbios.com

Donna Reed, as Donna Stone, and Patty Petersen, as her daughter, Trish Stone, in the television show "The Donna Reed Show",

Library of Congress Motion Picture, Broadcasting and Recorded Sound Division, LC-DIG-ppmsca-03220 DLC

Article from Women’s Wear Daily "Paris Opening Get's Under Way", July 28, 1950, from the Fairchild clipping archive

"New Paris Arrivals", New York Herald, March 21, 1958, from the Fairchild clipping archive

"Givenchy Holds Designer Shapes Dress, Not Wearer", Women's Wear Daily, March 21, 1958, from the Fairchild clipping archive

American Flag, Fairchild Digital Archive

Women’s Wear Daily Article, "Longer Suit Jackets by American Designers", September 9, 1958, from the Fairchild clipping Archive

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C H A P T E R S E V E N T E E N

THE NEW LOOKFashion Conformity Prevails1947 - 1960

Image Credits Women’s Wear Daily Article, "Norell Projects Spheroid Shape, High Waist for Fall", July 3, 1958, from the Fairchild clipping Archive

Women’s Wear Daily Article, "Adrian Designs Stage Costumes", July 9, 1958, from the Fairchild Clipping Archive

Davidson's of Georgia Advertisement, Vogue 1947, from the Author's collection

Davidson' Atlanta Advertisement, Vogue, June 1956, page 29, from the Author's collection

Davidson's of Georgia Advertisement, Vogue 1947, from the Author's collection

Davidson' Atlanta Advertisement, Vogue, June 1956, page 29, from the Author's collection

Designs created in 1956 by Miguel Dorian of Spain, Givenchy of France, and Norman Hartnell of England, Courtesy, Fairchild Publications

Cole of California Advertisement, Vogue, May 1951, pg 26, from the Author's collection

Carlyon Beach Photo, Courtesy, www.eden-project.co.uk

Photo of Red Coat, Vogue, October 1, 1957, page 141, from the Author's collection

Harry William, Limited Advertisement, Vogue, Feburary 1950, from the Author's collection

#2679 c. 1950's CEIL CHAPMAN Ecru Satin Bead and Rhinestone Dress, Courtesy, www.antiquedress.com

#3325 c. 1950's Organdy and Lace "Grace Kelly" Dress, Courtesy, www.antiquedress.com

#4350 - c. 1950's WILL STEINMAN Black and White Lace Party, Courtesy, www.antiquedress.com

c. 1950's Ceil Chapman Beige Strapless Taffeta Gown, , Courtesy, www.antiquedress.com

c. 1950 Nettie Rosenstein Cocktail Dress, Courtesy, www.antiquedress.com

#4109 - c. late 1950's Metallic Brocade Bubble Dress, Courtesy, www.antiquedress.com

c. 1950 Nettie Rosenstein Floral Strapless Evening Gown, Courtesy, www.antiquedress.com

#9176a - c. 1950's REPRODUCTION PAULETTE Brown Plush Molded Hat with Original Huge Sequin and Beaded Hatpin, Courtesy,

www.antiquedress.com

#4093 - c. 1950's Onyx Iridescent Coque Feather Hat, Courtesy, www.antiquedress.com

#9154 - 1950's Green Leaf and Berries Hat Band, Courtesy, www.antiquedress.com

#0609 - c. 1950's Pinehurst, Fifth Avenue, NY Black Straw Molded Hat with Black Velvet Trim, Courtesy, www.antiquedress.com

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C H A P T E R S E V E N T E E N

THE NEW LOOKFashion Conformity Prevails1947 - 1960

Image Credits Hairstyle, Vogue, June 1956, page 95, from the Author's collection

Hairstyle, Vogue, June 1956, page 96, from the Author's collection

Hairstyle, Vogue, June 1956, page 97, from the Author's collection

Retro Shoes, Courtesy, www.pinupgirlclothing.com

1950's White Lucite "Wilardy" Box Purse, Courtesy, www.vintagemartini.com

50's Fab Pink Vinyl Purse, Courtesy, www.vintagemartini.com

1950's Pink "Lilly Dache" Gloves, Courtesy, www.vintagemartini.com

50's White Gloves W/Pearls & Rhinestones, Courtesy, www.vintagemartini.com

Cool Stripe Sunglasses, Courtesy, www.vintagemartini.com

Pale Pink Sunglasses With Cutouts, Courtesy, www.vintagemartini.com

#J001 - c. 1950's Ruby Red, Pink and Aurora Rhinestone Pin, Courtesy, www.antiquedress.com

Haskell Signed Brooch, from the inventory of Isadora’s Antique Clothing and Estate Jewelry, Seattle, WA, www.isadoras.com.

Dior and Balenciaga sillouettes from 1955 Collection, Vogue Magazine, Condé Nast Publications

A variety of unfitted "chemise" styles featured in Women's Wear Daily, late 1957, Courtesy Fairchild Publications

A-Dress called "the trapeze", Courtesy, Butterick Pattern Archives/Library

Article "Temperate Versions of New Silhouettes," Women's Wear Daily, May 13, 1958, From Fairchild clipping archive

Men's Boxer Short Advertisement, Sears and Roebuck Catalog, Fall/Winter 1956-1957, pg 677, Fairchild Archives

Bold Look Suit, Courtesy, Fairchild Publications

Grey Flannel Suit, Vogue, March 1955, pg 148, from the Author's collection

Continental Style Suit Illustration, Courtesy Fairchild Publications

Shirt Advertisement from Sears and Roebuck Fall/Winter 1956-1957 Catalog, page 654, Fairchild Archive

Popular sportswear items for men, Daily News Record, April 8, 1959, reproduced Courtesy, Fairchild Publications

Various Men’s hats, Courtesy, www.millerhats.com

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C H A P T E R S E V E N T E E N

THE NEW LOOKFashion Conformity Prevails1947 - 1960

Image Credits Fifties Blue Suede and Leather Shoes, Courtesy, www.ballyhoovintage.com

Fifties Men's Leisure Shoes, Courtesy, www.ballyhoovintage.com

Fifties Black Penny Loafers, Courtesy, www.ballyhoovintage.com

1950's Sun glasses by American Optical, Courtesy, www.klasik.org

1950's gold-fill frame Sun glasses, Courtesy, www.klasik.org

Bow Ties and Neck Ties Advertisement, Sears and Roebuck Catalog, Fall/Winter 1956-1957, pg 460, Fairchild Archives

Handkerchiefs Advertisement, Sears and Roebuck Catalog, Fall/Winter 1956-1957, pg 460, Fairchild Archives

1950's Vintage Socks, Courtesy, www.ballyhoovintage.com

Boys Suits Advertisement, Sears and Roebuck Catalog, Fall/Winter 1956-1957, pg 463, Fairchild Archives

Girl's Dress Advertisement, Sears and Roebuck Catalog, Fall/Winter 1956-1957, pg 408, Fairchild Archives

Portrait of Jack Kerouac, photograph by Allen Ginsberg, Courtesy, www.allenginsberg.org

North East R&R Society Photo, photographer unknown, Courtesy, Martin Craig, http://www.nvo.com/radioland/door/

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© 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

C H A P T E R E I G H T E E N

THE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIESStyle Tribes Emerge1960 - 1980

For Further Study

Museum And Collection Web Sites With Photographs Of Period ClothingTexas Fashion Collection http://web2.unt.edu/tfc_test/main/Index.htm Bata Shoe Museum http://www.batashoemuseum.ca/collectindex.html Bath Museum. Interesting feature of “the dress of the year.” http://www.museumofcostume.co.uk Pictures from Beverly Berks Couture Collection which has extensive collection of images of garments and accessories.

http://www.camrax.com http://dept.kent.edu/museum/costume/bonc/3timesearch/tstwentieth/20.html Philadelphia Museum www.philamuseum.org Metropolitan Museum of Art: Costume Institute found at www.metmuseum.org/works_of_art/collection.asp Cornell University Costume Collection http://char.txa.cornell.edu/treasures/index.html Drexel University Costume Gallery http://digimuse.cis.drexel.edu/home.html

Fashion DesignersGo to web site http://www.dilpreetbawa.com/historyofashion/fashionframe.html and look at pages devoted to fashion

designers active between 1960 and 1980.Also search on names of specific fashion designers. Many firms and designers are still active and may have the

ir own web pages.

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C H A P T E R E I G H T E E N

THE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIESStyle Tribes Emerge1960 - 1980

For Further Study

The Young And Fashion Innovationshttp://www.gbacg.org/Articles/mods.pdf http://www.fiftiesweb.com/fashion/mod-fashion.htm http://www.hippy.com/php/article-120.html http://www.costumegallery.com/1960.htm http://www.fashion-era.com/punks_fashion_history1.htm http://www.metmuseum.org/toah/hd/vivw/hd_vivw.htm http://www.arthistoryclub.com/art_history/Punk_fashion

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C H A P T E R E I G H T E E N

THE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIESStyle Tribes Emerge1960 - 1980

Image Credits Image copyright (c) 2004 by Philo Vivero. Image created using free tools available at http://faemalia.net/Fractals

Photo of Birth Control Pills, Courtesy, www.metrokc.gov

Photo of Yuri Gagarin, the first human in space, Courtesy, NASA

Photo of Freedom Riders, Courtesy, Southwest Missouri State University

Image of Berlin Wall, Courtesy, National Archives at College Park - Archives II (College Park, MD)

Anwar Sadat, Jimmy Carter and Menahem Begin at the Camp David Accords Signing Ceremony, 09/17/1978, Courtesy, Jimmy Carter Library (Atlanta, GA)

Image of UN Viewing Photos of Missile Sites in Cuba 1962, Courtesy the United Nations Photo Library

Orchard with Blossoming Plum Trees, 1888, Courtesy the Web Museum, Paris

Civil Rights March on Washington 1963, Courtesy, www.washingtonafra.com

"A female demonstrator offers a flower to military police on guard at the Pentagon during an anti-Vietnam demonstration.", Courtesy, National Archives and Records Administration, Records of the Office of The Chief Signal Officer (111-CC-46331)

"Women protest the U.S. presence in Vietnam 1969, Courtesy University Archives, Arizona State University Libraries"

Betty Friedan, Photograph by World Telegram & Sun photographer Fred Palumbo. 1960, Library of Congress, Reproduction Number: LC-USZ62-20997

Kennedy, Robert. Appearing before the Platform Committee, Photograph by Warren K. Leffler, 1964, Library of Congress, Reproduction Number: LC-U9-5415-30

President's Family leaves Capitol after Ceremony, John F. Kennedy Library (Boston, MA)

Photograph of White House Meeting with Civil Rights Leaders, June 22, 1963, 06/22/1963,John F. Kennedy Library (Boston, MA)

Alan Ginsberg at the Human Be-In October 1967, Courtesy, www.summeroflove.org

MARTIN LUTHER KING, JR. at a press conference at the Capitol, Washington, D.C., Photograph by Marion S. Trikosko, March 26, 1964, Library of Congress (LC-U9-11696)

Alan Shepard, Apollo 11 Moon Landing, Courtesy NASA

Woodstock Photo, Courtesy Alvin Lee, 1969

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C H A P T E R E I G H T E E N

THE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIESStyle Tribes Emerge1960 - 1980

Image Credits Photo of Earth, Courtesy NASA

Kent State Shooting Aftermath, Courtesy, the Bettman Archive, UPI

Peaceful Protest in Washington D.C., 1971 b/w photographs, 1971. NYU Archives Photo Collection, Courtesy New York University

President and Mrs. Nixon's arrival in Peking, China, Nixon reviewing troops at the airport., 02/21/1972, National Archives at College Park - Archives II (College Park, MD)

Watergate Complex, National Archives at College Park - Archives II (College Park, MD)

Watergate Burglers, 1972 UPI/Bettman Archive

Henry Kissinger, right, shaking hands with Le Duc Tho in Paris after their agreement on the cease-fire terms of the Vietnam War, 1973, www.britannica.com

Photo of Gas Station with "Sold Out Today" sign, 1973, United States Department of Energy

The Supreme Court Building, United State Government Printing Office

Richard Nixon departs from the White House before Gerald Ford was sworn in as President, By Oliver F. Atkins, Washington, DC, August 9, 1974, Nixon Presidential Materials Project, National Archives and Records Administration"

Deng Xiaoping and Jimmy Carter at the arrival ceremony for the Vice Premier of China , 01/29/1979, Jimmy Carter Library (Atlanta, GA)

Three Mile Island, Three Mile Island - April 11, 1979 (Source: NARA)

Dior’s Dinner Taffeta; your own shoulders, padded hips, Vogue, April 1947

"Paris The Wow Proportions," Vogue, March 15, 1965, page 86, from the Author's collection.

"The Beautiful Full Body", Givenchy, , August 3, 1962, Fairchild Publications Archives

Escargo, Prêt-A-Porter, Vogue, 1967

"Try Police Not Huey" opening day Huey P Newton trial - Oakland Court house - l969, www.newsreel.us

Earth Day Pin, Courtesy, www.geosound.org

Photo of Earth, Courtesy NASA

Hippies, http://discosantigos.com

Image copyright (c) 2004 by Philo Vivero. Image created using free tools available at http://faemalia.net/Fractals

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C H A P T E R E I G H T E E N

THE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIESStyle Tribes Emerge1960 - 1980

Image Credits Punk Hair Styles by Peter Gennard EFIAP/p, www.theoldschoolhouse.com

"Oh to be in London,” Time, April 15, 1966, pp. 34-35, General Collections, Library of Congress (283)

Image of Mod Clothing, Vogue, September 1, 1965, page 197, from the Author's collection

#3008 - c. 1960's "Andy Warhol" Campbell's Soup Paper Dress, Courtesy www.antiquedress.com

Wearable Art, Courtesy, Robert Hillstead; photographer, John Nollendorfs

Designer Rudi Gernreich's "No-Bra" bra in nude tricot for Exquisite Form manufactured, 1969, , December 10, 1969, Fairchild Publications

Triple Vision Pantyhose, www.vintagepantyhose.com

Good Girl, Bad Girl Pantyhose, www.vintagepantyhose.com

Bodysuits, July 31, 1969, Fairchild Publications

Empire Waist Dress, Vogue, May 1963, page 163, Courtesy, Condé Nast Publications

A-Line Dress, Vogue, March 15, 1969, page 133, Courtesy, Condé Nast Publications

Evening Dress, Vogue, March 1, 1967, Courtesy, Condé Nast Publications

Two Evening Dress, Vogue March 1, 1967, Courtesy, Condé Nast Publications

Illustrations from Women's Wear Daily, May 5, 1971, Courtesy, Fairchild Publications.

Ungaro Advertisement, Vogue, March 15, 1969, page 82, Courtesy, , Condé Nast Publications

Julie Driscoll, Vogue, March 15, 1969, page 116, Courtesy, , Condé Nast Publications

Sketch form Women's Wear Daily, September 1971, Courtesy, Fairchild Publications

"Buy Longuettes…Bye-Bye Minis", , September 17, 1970, Courtesy, Fairchild Publications

Mila Schon, Vogue, March 15, 1969, page 101, Courtesy, Condé Nast Publications

#3920 - c. 1965 Incredible, Hard-to-Find EMILIO PUCCI Brown Twill Print Pants Suit, www.antiquedress.com

#4146 - c. 1960's EMILIO PUCCI Fabulous Silk Mini Dress/Tunic, Bellbottom Pants, and Original Tie Sash, Courtesy, www.antiquedress.com

Illustration of Woman in Dress for Success Look, Courtesy Fairchild Publications

Vintage 70's Floral Maxi Dress with Attached Asymmetrical Scarf, Courtesy, www.vintage70sclothing.com

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C H A P T E R E I G H T E E N

THE SIXTIES AND SEVENTIESStyle Tribes Emerge1960 - 1980

Image Credits Vintage 70's Bright Rose Pink Halter Maxi Dress, Courtesy, www.vintage70sclothing.com

Vintage 70's Black Evening Gown with Shimmering Sequins Bodice, Courtesy, www.vintage70sclothing.com

Vintage 60's Bias Cut Animal Print Maxi Dress with Scalloped Hem, Courtesy, www.vintage70sclothing.com

Charles de Castelbajac, Women's Wear Daily, April 7, 1976, Courtesy, Fairchild Publications

#9174 - c. 1960's White Silk Dupioni Mod Hat, www.antiquedress.com

#4299 - c. early 1970's CHRISTIAN DIOR from Saks Fifth Avenue Grey Wool Felt Floppy Hat with Matching Crochet Trim, www.antiquedress.com

#9317 - c. 1960's MISS DIOR, by Christian Dior Off-White Chiffon Pom-Pom Beret, www.antiquedress.com

#9316 - c. 1960's CHRISTIAN DIOR Chapeaux, Paris, New York Light Beige Plush Hat with Black Patent "Bow", www.antiquedress.com

#9143 - 1970's Tan Leather Cap, www.antiquedress.com

Purses, Wallets and Jewelry, Courtesy, www.chelsea-girl.com

1960's and 1970's Sunglasses, Courtesy, www.klasik.org

Men's Underwear, Men's Wear, January 9, 1968, Courtesy Fairchild Publications

1960's Man's Suit, Daily New Record, February 14, 1967, Courtesy, Fairchild Publications

Continental Style Suit Illustration, Courtesy Fairchild Publications

The Nehru Suit, Courtesy, Fairchild Publications