51388643-seam-stitch
TRANSCRIPT
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Stitch:Kind of the stitchClassification of stitch as BSI:
Class Name of Stitch Available subclass Created Machine
Class100 Chain stitch 7 and each class issubdivided
SNCS, Blind StitchMachine.
Class200 Hand stitch 13 Number of
subdivided classes is88.
Class 300 Lockstitch 27 in total. SNLS, 2NLS, Bartuck machine.
Class 400 Multi needle chain stitch 17 in total. Kansai Machine,2NCS
Class 500 Over-edge chain stitch 15 in total. 3T, 4T, 5T over lockmachine.
Class 600 Covering chain 9 in total. Flat lock machine.
Class 100 Stitches
Class 100 stitches are single thread chain stitches using one needle thread and one blind looper. Feature
A piece of thread is interlaced like a chain under the cloth and the stitches are formed as knitted.The constructive feature is that the stitches are untied one after another when the interlacementat the end of sewing comes off.
ApplicationBasting (ML-111), button sewing (AMB-189N), (MB-377), chain stitch buttonholing (MBH-180S),blind stitch, And closing of bag opening.
Example of Stitch formation
Stitch formation:
A: Needle thread slacks at the positionwhere needle slightly goes up from itslowest position, and looper catches the
needle thread which has become like aloop.Also, the needle enters the circle of needle thread which is widened by thelooper.
Class 101 ... Chain stitch Class 103 ... Blind stitch
Looper
Needle
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c ¦ ¨ £ ¨ ¦ £ x ̈ s ¨ ̈ c© #
$
W £ £ ¨ c ¥ ss 100 s¨ ̈ c © £ s § ¦ m % ¢ C % # ! ¥ ¤ s ¨ ̈ c © m c © £ £ ¨ c
Sub C& ' ss ( s of C& ' ss 100 Stitc ) are given below:
Diagram Stitc ) Class No. of Thread Typical Uses
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Class 101 One Thread Basting, or light construction
Class 103 One Thread Blind stitch for Hemming
Class 104 One Thread Blind stitch for Hemming
Class 200 Stitches
Single thread hand sewed stitches using one needle thread. Feature
Same stitch as that of hand stitch is formed by a piece of thread. Thread is drawn in every stitchor every other stitch and the length of stitching is limited. Since friction is given at the sameposition of the sewing thread many times, the thread is untwined during sewing resulting in threadbreakage unless the thread is a high-durable one. Even when the sewing is made, the stitch looksbroken. Therefore, the thread that can be used is limited.
Application0 ecorative stitch of suits or like, kimono (Japanese national dress), Button sewing of coats, suits,etc.
Example of stitch formation
Stitch Formation:
Class 200 Hand Stitch
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A: Needle is fixed to upper needle bar, andleft-hand and right-hand loopers draw andretain the thread. Cloth is fed and the needlecomes down.
B: Needle penetrates the cloth and isdelivered to the lower needle bar. The right-hand looper returns to its home place.
C: Lower looper catches the thread loop atthe position where the lower needle barslightly goes up from its lowest position.
1 : Lower looper draws out thread which
enters under the cloth one stitch before fromthe above left-hand looper. Simultaneouslythe cloth is fed.
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E: Needle goes up and penetrates the cloth.Lower looper further pulls in the threaddownward.
F: Needle penetrates the cloth, and isdelivered to the upper needle bar and goesup. Thread is wiped out by the lower looper.Next, the above left-hand and right-handloopers catch the thread to continue to A.
Sub Classes of Class 200 Stitch are given below:
2 iagram Stitch Class No. of Thread Typical Uses
Class 202 One Thread Basting, Tacking or Repairs
Class 205 One Thread Pick Stitch - Topstitching
Class 300 Stitches
Two or more thread lock stitches using needle thread(s) and one bobbinhook thread.
Feature
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Two threads of upper thread (needle thread) and lower thread (bobbin thread) are used. Everystitch upper thread and lower thread interlaces each other and the stitches on right and wrongsides are the same. This stitch is widely used since it is not easily frayed and securely joins pluralpieces of cloth. It is necessary to replace the bobbin thread since stitch formation is obtained byrotation of the needle thread around the bobbin case.
ApplicationGeneral sewing (
3 3
L-5550N,3 3
L-5700-7,3
LU-5490N-7,3
LN-5410N-7), Shirring (3
LU-5494N-7),2-needle lockstitch (LH-3128-7), Zigzag stitch (LZ-2288N-7), Plain stitch, 3 ecorative stitch,Bartacking (LK-1900), Lockstitch buttonholing (LBH-790RS-1), Button sewing (LK-1903/BR25),Pockect sewing (AP 4 -196) and Pattern sewing (AMS-210 3 )
Example of stitch formationJIS mark 301 ... 1-needle lockstitch JIS mark 304 ... 1-needle lockstitch zigzag stitch
A: Upper thread slacks at the positionwhere the needle slightly goes up fromits lowest position, and blade point of outer hook catches the loop-shapedupper thread and pulls in the upperthread.
B: Upper thread which is pulled in bythe blade point of outer hook isseparated at the inner hook threadseparating portion so that the upperthread on the needle side is separatedto the rear side of inner hook and theupper thread on cloth side is separatedto the right side of inner hook.
1-needle lockstitch 1-needle lockstitch zigzag
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C: Outer hook rotates, while pulling inupper thread, around the periphery of bobbin case containing lower thread setin inner hook. Thread take-up leversupplies upper thread which isnecessary to rotate around inner hook.(Suppose that inner hook is a humanbeing, and it looks like doing rope-skipping.)
5 : Immediately after upper thread hasrotated around inner hook, threadtake-up lever lifts upper thread and theupper thread is interlaced with the lower
E: Stitch is formed when the upper
thread lifts the lower thread and cloth isfed at the end. Next, needle comesdown and penetrates cloth to continueto A: .
2 Semi-rotary hook
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A: Blade point of semi-rotary hookcatches loop-shaped upper thread.
6 : Upper thread rotates around theperiphery of bobbin case by rotation of the hook.
C: After 1/2 rotation of the hook, upperthread is lifted by thread take-up leverand is interlaced with lower thread.
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D: Stitch is formed when the upperthread lifts the lower thread and cloth isfed at the end. To be continued to a : .
Sub Classes of Class 300 Stitch are given below:
DiagramStitchClass
No. of Thread
Typical Uses
Class301
TwoThreads
Seaming Multiple Plies
Class304
TwoThread
Zigzag Stitch; a stretch lockstitch
Class306
TwoThread
Blind Stitch
Class315
TwoThreads
"Three Step Zigzag; a stretch lockstitchwith more stretch
Class 400 Stitches
Multi-thread/needle chain stitches using one or more needle threads and one or more ooperthreads.
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FeatureUpper thread (needle thread) and lower thread (looper thread) are interlaced with each other likea chain under cloth, and the stitches look like knitted. The stitches look the same as those of lockstitch when observing from the surface of cloth. Sewing can be performed continuously f or along time since lower thread as well as upper thread can be supplied continuously. Stitches are fullof elasticity, and widely used for the elastic cloth and places to which shock is applied. Defect,when compared with the lockstitch, is that the stitch is easily frayed.
ApplicationGeneral sewing (MH-481-5) Rubber tape attaching, Lace attaching to underwear, swim-suit, etc.Eyelet buttonholing (MEB-2688), Side seam (MS-1190), Belt loop making (MFB-2600)
Example of stitch formationJIS mark 401 ... 1-needle double chain stich JIS mark 406 ... 2-needle double chain stitch
Stitch formationA: Needle thread comes off looper andis tightened. Then, looper scoopsneedle thread at the position whereneedle slightly goes up from its lowestposition.
B: Needle continues to go up andlooper thread comes off needle. Looperadvances in the state that it hasscooped needle thread.
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C: Cloth is fed when needle is in the highestdead point and looper is in the most advancedstate, and the final tightening of needlethread is performed.
D: Needle comes down and the needle tipscoops looper thread. Looper performs ellipticmotion. Then, stitch formation is continued to
Sub Classes of Class 400 Stitch are given below:
DiagramStitchClass
No. of Thread
Typical Uses
Class 401Two
ThreadsSeaming Multiple Plies with moderate
stretch
Class 406Three
Threads"Bottom Cover Stitch; a (greater)
stretch chain stitch
Class 500 Stitches
Multi-thread over Edge chain stitches using needle threads and looper threads. Feature
In many cases, three threads of upper thread (needle thread) and lower threads (upper looperthread and lower looper thread) are interlaced with one another so as to hem material end, andthe stitches look like knitted.This stitch belongs to the classification of chain stitch. The stitch itself can expand following theexpansion of cloth. Accordingly, this stitch is mostly used for the cloth which is largely expanded(knit or the like).
Application
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Cloth which is largely expanded, blind over-edging, prevention of fray at material end (ASN-397/serging machine) Over lock sewing machine (MO-3904), 2-needle over lock machine (MO-3914), Cylinder-bed over lock sewing machine (MOC-3914)
Extra: Compound stitching Feature
This stitch is favorable to the productivity since double chain stitching and over-edge chainstitching are simultaneously performed (safety stitch). The machine is called "Interlock machine".(MO-3916)
ApplicationGeneral run stitching, side joining of shirts, slacks, etc.
Example of stitch formationJIS mark 504 ... 1-needle over lock JIS mark 506 ... 2-needle over lock
Stitch formation
A: Lower looper scoops needle threadloop.
B: Upper looper thread comes off needleand upper looper scoops lower looperthread.
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C: Cloth is fed.
D: Needle tip scoops upper looperthread.
E: Lower looper thread which is caughton upper looper comes off. Then, needlethread which is caught on lower loopercomes off.
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F: Needle thread which is before onestitch is tightened at the lower deadpoint of needle.Stitch formation is continued to A.
Sub Classes of Class 500 Stitch are given below:
Diagram StitchClass No. of Thread Typical Uses
Class502
TwoThread
One Needle Over edge stitch for Serging
Class503
TwoThread
Over edge stitch for Serging with Class-1over on Edge of Fabric
Class504
ThreeThread
Over edge stitch for Serging and LightSeaming
Class512
FourThread
Make Safety Stitch for Seaming with widebite and Greater Stretch for Knits
Class514
FourThread
Over edge Stitch for Seaming with widebite and Greater Stretch for Knits
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Class515
FourThread
True Safety Stitch for Seaming with GoodStretch for 7 oven and Knits
Class516
FiveThread
True Safety Stitch for Seaming with GoodStretch for 7 oven and Knits
600Class Stitches
Multi-Thread Covering stitches. Feature
There are two or more needle threads and decorative threads on both the right and wrongsides of
cloth (generally, upper decorative thread is attached to 2-needle or 3-needle double chain stitch).The stitch is full of elasticity and looks nice.
ApplicationHemming (MFC-7605/AH-1) Decorative stitch for lace attaching to underwear, swim-suits, etc.
Example of stitch formationJIS mark 605 ... 3-needle covering chainstitch JIS mark 602 ... 2-needle covering chain stitch
Stitch formationA: Lower looper scoops needle threadloop,and simultaneously upper decorativelooper scoops upper decorative thread.
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B: Cloth is fed and only right-handneedle is positioned in the outside of decorative thread.Two left-hand needles come down andscoop upper decorative thread.
C: Needles further come down and
scoop lower looper thread. And, tworight-handneedles enter in between the respectiveneedle threads as shown in theillustration.
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D: Needle thread comes off lower looperand needle comes down in its lowestposition. Lower looper and upperdecorative looper are in the mostretracted positions. Stitch formation iscontinued to A .
Sub Classes of Class 500 Stitch are given below:
Diagram Stitch Class No. of Thread Typical Uses
Class 602 Four Thread Covering Stitch or Seaming Knits
Class 605 Five Thread Covering Stitch or Butt-Seams
Class 607 Six Thread 8 ide Covering Stitch or Butt-Seams
SEAM:
Seam: Seam is a group of stitch.
Superimposed Seams
Seams in which Two or More Plies of Fabric are superimposed on Each Other.
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Seam Diagram Seam
Class
Needle
CountTypical Uses and Stitch Types
C A
B
SS-1
a
1 or 2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 ,
Class 400 , or Class 500
C A
B
SS-1 b
1 or 2 Seaming two plies with one edge folded using
Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400
C A
B
SS-1 c
1 or 2 Seaming two plies with a finished edge Class
100 , Class 300 , or Class 400
C A
B
SS-1
d1 or 2
Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 ,
or Class 400
C A
B
SS-1
e2
Seaming two plies with finished edge in two
steps using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400
C A
B
SS-1 f
3 Bottom Covering stitch Seaming on two plies
using Class 400 , Class 500 , or Class 500
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D
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C E
F
SS-1
h2
Bottom Covering stitch Seaming on two plies Class 100 , Class 300 ,or Class 400 AND
103Class
C E ASS-1 j
1 or 2 Seaming three plies Raw edge finish where
center ply may be ribbon using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
C E ASS-1 k
1 Seaming three plies where center ply may be
folded edge finish using Class 100 , Class 300 ,
or Class 400
C E ASS-1
l1
Seaming of two plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
C E ASS-1
m 2
Joining two Plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or
Class 400
C E ASS-1 n
1 or 2 Seaming of two plies folded to one face using
Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400
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H
58
C I ASS-1
p1 or 2
Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 ,
or Class 400
C I ASS-1 q
2 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class 300
, or Class 400
C I ASS-1 r
1 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 ,or Class 400
C I ASS-1
s 1 or 2
Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 ,
or Class 400
C I ASS-1
t2
Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 ,
or Class 400
C I ASS-1 u
2 Edge Seam with Third ply as tape using Class
100 , Class 300 , or Class 400
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Q
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C R ASS-1
v1 or 2
Internal Seaming of two plies using Class 100 ,
Class 300 , or Class 400
C R ASS-1 w
2 Seaming two plies with edges folded using Class
100 , Class 300 , or Class 400
C R ASS-1 x
2 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400
C R ASS-1
y2
Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class 300
, or Class 400
C R ASS-1
z3
Butt Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
C R ASS-1 aa
1 or 2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class 300 ,
or Class 400
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T
58
C U ASS-1
ab1 or 2
Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
C U ASS-1 ac
3 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
C U ASS-1 ad
3 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400
C U ASS-1
ae2
Seaming two plies with using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400 known as "French Seam"
C U ASS-1
af 2
Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
C U ASS-1 ag
3 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
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Page 23 V
W
58
C X ASS-1
ah3
Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
C X ASS-1
aj3
Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
C X ASS-1 ak
1 or 2 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
C X ASS-1 al
2 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
C X ASS-1
am 2
Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
C X ASS-1 an
2 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
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̀
58
C a ASS-1
ao2
Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
C a ASS-1 ap
3 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
C a ASS-1 aq
2 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
C a ASS-1
ar3
Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
C a ASS-1 as
4 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
C a ASS-1 at
2 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
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c
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C d ASS-1
au2
Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
C d ASS-1 av
2 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
C d ASS-1
aw2
Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
C d ASS-1 ax
2 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
C d ASS-1 ay
2 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
C d ASS-1 az
1 or 2 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
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f
58
C g ASS-1
ba3
Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400 AND 2xClass 500
C g ASS-1 bb
3 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
C g ASS-1 bc
1 or 2 Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
C g ASS-1
bd1 or 2
Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
C g ASS-1
be2
Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
C g ASS-1
bf 3
Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
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Page 27 h
i
58
C p ASS-1
bg3
Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
C p ASS-1
bh3
Seaming multiple plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
Lapped Seams
Seams in which Two or More Plies of Fabric are SuperimpClass-5 ed and /or Folded on Each Other
Seam Diagram Seam Class
NeedleCount
Typical Uses and Stitch Types
CLASS-2 a
1 or 2 Overlap seam of two plies at edges using
Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400
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r
58
CLASS-2
b1 or 2
Overlap seam of two plies with one edgefolded using Class 100 , Class 300 , or
Class 400
CLASS-2 c
1, 2 or3
Flat Felled Seam using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2 d
1 or 2
Seaming of two plies where one ply is
folded and set in the middle of the other
using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2 e
1 or 2
Seaming Three plies with finished edges
where two plies lay in one direction (Yokestitch) using Class 100 , Class 300 , or
Class 400
CLASS-2 f
1
Seaming Three plies with finished edges
where two plies lay in one direction (Yokestitch) using Class 100 , Class 300 , or
Class 400
CLASS-2 g
2
Seaming three plies with finished edges
(Shirt Placket) Class 100 , Class 300 ,orClass 400
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t
58
CLASS-2 j
2
Seaming three plies with finished edges
and interfacing (Shirt Placket) Class 100 ,Class 300 ,or Class 400
CLASS-2
k2
Seaming two plies with finished edges (simple Shirt Placket) Class 100 , Class 300
,or Class 400
CLASS-2 l 2 Seaming three plies with finished edges
Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2
m 2
Seaming two plies with finished edges andinterfacing (simple Shirt Placket) using
Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2 n
1 or 2 Two plies folded and bound using Class 100
, Class 300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2 p
2 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
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v
58
CLASS-2 q
2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2
r2
Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
CLASS-1 2 Seaming two plies in two steps using Class
100 , Class 300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2
t2
Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2 u
2 Seaming three plies where one binds the
other two behind the face Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2
v1 or 2
Seaming two plies where face binds the
second ply using Class 100 , Class 300 , orClass 400
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x
58
CLASS-2 w
4
Seaming four plies where one ply wraps around two facing plies, bound to anotherply using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class
400
CLASS-2
x 2
Seaming three plies with raw edges using
Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2
y2
Seaming three plies with edges using Class
100 , Class 300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2 z
3 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2 aa
3 Seaming three plies with raw edges using
Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2
ab3
Seaming three plies with using Class 100 ,
Class 300 , or Class 400
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CLASS-2
ac 2
Seaming three plies bound with raw edges
using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2
ad2+
Seaming three plies bound with raw edges
using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2 ae
2
Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
"Stitched Pleat"
CLASS-2
af 2
Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2
ag2
Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2
ah1 or 2
Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400 and ribbon or tape
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CLASS-2
aj1 or 2
Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2
ak2
Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2 al
2 Seaming two plies as a placket using Class
100 , Class 300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2
am 2
Seaming three plies as a placket with
interfacing using Class 100 , Class 300 , orClass 400
CLASS-2
an2
Seaming two plies as a placket withinterfacing using Class 100 , Class 300 , or
Class 400
CLASS-2 ap
1 or 2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
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CLASS-2 aq
1 or 2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2
ar1 or 2
Seaming four plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2
as 2
Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2 at
2
Seaming two plies with seam tape using
Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400 andtwo rows of ribbon or tape
CLASS-2
au2
Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400 and ribbon or tape
CLASS-2
av4
Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400 and ribbon or tape
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CLASS-2 aw
3 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2 ay
4 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2 az
4 Seaming three plies with raw edges using
Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2
bb4
Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2
bc 2
Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2 bd
2 Seaming four plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
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CLASS-2
be2
Seaming four plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
>
CLASS-2 bf
2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2 bg
1 or 2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2
bh1 or 2
Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2 bj
1 or 2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2 bk
2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
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CLASS-2
bl2
Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2
bm 3
Seaming two plies using two of Class 100 ,
Class 300 ,
or Class 400 and one Class 500 stitchSometimes known as "Make felling"
CLASS-2 bn
2 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2
bo3
Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2
bp2
Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2 bq
2 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
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CLASS-2 br
3 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2 Class-3
1 or 2
Seaming four plies with raw edges using
Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400
w /ribbon or tape
CLASS-2 bt
2 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400 with ribbon or tape
CLASS-2
bu2
Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400 with ribbon or tape
CLASS-2
bv3
Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
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CLASS-2
bw3
Seaming four plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2 bx
3 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2 by
2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2
bz3
Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2
ca2
Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
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CLASS-2 cb
2 Seaming five plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2 cc
2 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2 cd
3 Seaming four plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2
ce2
Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2
cf 2
Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
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CLASS-2
cg2
Seaming three plies in using Class 100 ,
Class 300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2 ch
2 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2
c j3
Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2
ck3
Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2
Class
3 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
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CLASS-2 cm
3 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2 cn
3 Seaming three plies 1using Class 100 ,
Class 300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2
co4
Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2 cp
4 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2 cq
4 Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
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CLASS-2
cr4
Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2 cs
2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2 ct
2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2 cu
2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2
cw 3
Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
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CLASS-2
cx 3
Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2
cy3
Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400 with ribbon
CLASS-2
cz2
Seaming seven plies using Class 100 ,
Class 300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2
da 2
Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2 db
2 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
CLASS-2
dd2
Seaming three plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400 with interlining
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CLASS-2 do
3 Seaming two plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
Bound Seams
Seams in which One Ply of Fabric is sewn over the edge of Two or More Plies of Fabric
Right Classick and selectSave to Download
the Diagram
Seam
Class
Needle
CountTypical Uses and Stitch Types
CLASS-3 a
1 or 2 Binding over the edge of one ply using Class
100 , Class 300 , or Class 400
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l
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CLASS-3
b1 or 2
Binding over the edge of one ply using Class
100 , Class 300 , or Class 400
CLASS-3
c 1 or 2
Binding over the edge of one ply using Class
100 , Class 300 , or Class 400
CLASS-3
d2
Binding over the edge of two plies using
Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400
CLASS-3 e
2 Binding over the edge of two plies using
Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400
CLASS-3 f
2 Binding over the edge of one ply using Class
100 , Class 300 , or Class 400
CLASS-3 g
2 Binding over the edge of one ply using Class
100 , Class 300 , or Class 400
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n
58
CLASS-3
h3
Binding over the edge of two plies using
Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400
CLASS-3
j2
Binding over the edge of one ply using Class
100 , Class 300 , or Class 400
CLASS-3 k
1 or 2 Binding over the edge of one ply using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400
CLASS-3
l4
Binding over the edge of one ply using Class
100 , Class 300 , or Class 400
CLASS-3 m
3 Binding over the edge of one ply using Class
100 , Class 300 , or Class 400
CLASS-3 n
4 Binding over the edge of one ply using Class
100 , Class 300 , or Class 400
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CLASS-3p
2Binding over the edge of one ply using Class
100 , Class 300 , or Class 400
CLASS-3q
3Binding over the edge of two plies using
Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400
CLASS-3r
3Binding over the edge of one ply using Class
100 , Class 300 , or Class 400
BClass-1 2Binding over the edge of one ply using Class
100 , Class 300 , or Class 400
Flat Seams
Seams in which Two or More Plies of Fabric are Sewn Together at the Edges
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Right Classick & Save to Download
the Diagram
Seam
Class
Needle
CountTypical Uses and Stitch Types
CLASS-4
a4
Covering stitch Seaming two plies using
606Class, or 607Class
CLASS-4
b2
Covering stitch Seaming two plies using
602Class, or 603Class
CLASS-4
c 2
Covering stitch Seaming two plies using
602Class, or 603Class
CLASS-4
d
4 Seaming two plies using 602Class, or 603Class,then Class 300 , or Class 400 to join ribbon or
tape
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CLASS-4e
2Covering stitch Seaming two plies using
602Class, or 603Class with ribbon or tape
CLASS-4f
2Covering stitch Seaming two plies using
602Class, or 603Class
Ornamental/Decorative Seam
Ornamental Stitching is Stitches Sewn on One Ply of Fabric
Seam Diagram SeamClass
NeedleCount
Typical Uses and Stitch Types
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CLASS-5
a1 or 2
Decorative Stitching using Class 100 ,
Class 300 , Class 400 or 600Class
CLASS-5
b1 or 2
Decorative Stitching using cording
Sometimes called "Pin-tuck" with CordingUsing 304Class or Class 400 stitch
CLASS-5
c 1 or 2
Decorative Stitching sometimes called "Pin-tuck"
Using 304Class or Class 400 stitch
CLASS-5
d 2
Tuck stitching with Cording and Backer
using dual 101Class, 301Class, or 401Class stitch
CLASS-5
e1
Side Tuck Stitching using 101Class,
301Class, or 401Class stitch
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CLASS-5
f 1
"Stitch-Crease" stitching using 301Class
stitch - AClass-2 o called "Pin-Tuck"may be repeated
CLASS-5 g
3 Self -Stripe Trim using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400 stitch
CLASS-5
h1
Piping Trim using Class 100 , Class 300 , or
Class 400 stitch
Edge Netening /Edge Finish Seam
Fabric Edge is finished with Stitching
Seam Diagram Seam Class
NeedleCount
Typical Uses and Stitch Types
CLASS-6 a
1 or 2 Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
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CLASS-6 b
1 or 2 Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
CLASS-6
c 1
Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
CLASS-6
d1 or 2
Finishing one ply using Class 500
"Serging"
CLASS-6 e
1 or 2 Finishing one ply using Class 500
"Serging" Variation
CLASS-6 f
1 or 2 Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class
300 ,Class 400 or 600Class
CLASS-6
g2
Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
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CLASS-6 h
2 Finishing one ply using Class 400
CLASS-6
j1 or 2
Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
CLASS-6 k
2 Finishing one ply using Class 100 ,Class 300 , or Class 400
CLASS-6
l2 Finishing one ply using Class 400
CLASS-6
m 1
Finishing one ply using 103Class or306Class
Blind stitch Hem
CLASS-6
n2
Finishing two plies using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
Example; Belt Make
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CLASS-6 p
1 or 2
Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
Example; Belt Make
CLASS-6
q2
Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400 Reinforced Hem with Interlining
CLASS-6
r 2
Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400 Reinforced Hem with Interlining
CLASS-6
s 2
Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400
Example; Belt Make
CLASS-6
t2
Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
CLASS-6
u2
Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class 300 , or Class 400
"Spagetti Strap"
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CLASS-6
v2
Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400 and interlining
CLASS-6
w1 or 2
Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
CLASS-6 x
1 or 2 Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
CLASS-6 y
1 or 2 Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
CLASS-6 z
1 or 2 Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
CLASS-6
aa1 or 2
Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
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58
CLASS-6 ab
2 Finishing one ply using 602Class
CLASS-6
ac 2
Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400
with interliningMake Belt
CLASS-6 ad
2
Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400 with interlining
Make Belt
CLASS-6 ae 1 Finishing one ply using Class 500
CLASS-6
af 3
Finishing one ply using Class 500 , then602Class
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CLASS-6
ag3
Finishing one ply using Class 500 , then
602Class
CLASS-6 ah
1 or 2 Finishing one ply using Class 100 , Class
300 , or Class 400