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8 FOOD & DRINK THE PHNOM PENH POST 7DAYS APril 9 - 15, 2010

By Steve Sedgley

Lets be rank. Anyone who counts juicy

pork ribs, slathered in enough barbecue

sauce to drown a small cat, as one o their

avourite meals is not likely to partake in adelicate dissection o degustatory delights.

Foie gras? Say wha? What we want is meat

alling o the bone while the juice inches

perilously close to our wrists, and maybe a

slice or two o cucumber on the side to

provide that all-important health kick.

Ladies and gentlemen, we give you, theCambodian spare rib smackdown

Caiac Bar & gri (219 Sisowah Qua)

Put it this way: The air conditioning was the

highlight. At $9.25 or ribs and ries, with no

accompaniments except some garnish, itwould be air to expect quality ood. What

was served up was a small portion o ries

and seven ribs, some large and some small.

The barbecue sauce was agreeably sticky,

but the meat was extremely tough,suggesting the possibility o deep rying.

The meat was not so much dripping o the

bone as clinging on with an annoying

determination. The sauce was awul; the

word tangy somehow being mistaken or

spicy, a burning mouth is not what should

be expected ater ribs. I this ood was $3 it

would still have come last, but at almost 10

bucks

Fish (Sisowah Qua, cornr of Sr 108)

Being best known as a seaood restaurant,

Fish may have seemed like a strange choice

until a recent menu overhaul saw a host o

new meat dishes added. At $7.50 per

portion, these are among the most

expensive on the list, but a decent serving o

ries and a delicious, dressed side salad add

value. The portion consists o our large

ribs, which are generously coated by, but

not dripping in, sauce. The meat was tender

but still clung to the bone, while the sauce

was airly sweet with just the right amount

o tang. The ribs were perhaps a little on the

atty side, but extra marks are awarded or

the attentive service, which saw toothpicks

and a fnger-cleaning water bowl brought

immediately to the table.

yumi (29A Sr 288)

The age-old conundrum o quality versus

quantity comes to the ore at Yumi.

Ostensibly a Japanese usion restaurant,

with superb oerings on the menu, it is rareto hear anybody in the city ault this place.

In search of the best

ribs in Cambodia

T.G.I FRIDAYS

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9

to an Al Green soundtrack. The

absence o sauce only does the perect

seasoning more justice, yet the price

tag o $7, or our or fve small ribs, ontheir own, is where Yumi alls just

short.

3Rirs (Sr 258)

Hit 3Rivers on a Wednesday night or

the best-value rib deal in Phnom Penh.

For $4.75 or $7.50 or a hal or ull rack

respectively, including a ree beer,

nowhere in the capital can compete. It

is not just the price either; 3 Rivers ribs

stand up with the best. The thick,super-rich sauce, with a garlic twinge,

brings to mind the best o home, while

genuinely melt-in-the-mouth meat

barely needs to be chewed. Perhaps an

extra rib on the hal rack wouldnt go

amiss, but a hety side salad flls the gap

and some o the best chips in the city

(no small claim) constitute the perect

plate mopper. Good, honest ood at

even better prices makes this place

hard to beat.

Rus Kho (Rirsi, Kampo)

Including the Keyhole here is akin to

sending in Chuck Norris to deal with an

argument over a game o bridge at a

retirement home. Its just not air. For

the best ribs in the Kingdom, ravenous

carnivores have to leave the smoke o

Phnom Penh behind and head to sleepy

Kampot. The Keyholes ribs have

become legendary over the past ew

years, with savvy expats even phoningahead beore leaving the Penh to

reserve their meat fx. And its easy to

h l b b d i

FOOD & DRINKAPril 9 - 15, 2010 7DAYS THE PHNOM PENH POST

Caf & PubKhmer & Western Food.

Happy Hour from 3pm-8pm @ Anchor Draft

Open from 9am till late night.

#239BE0, Sisowath Quay, Phnom Penh.Free Delivery: 012 525 612/023 986 803

E-mail: kandalhouse@gmail.com

LATENTE SIMON AUGHTON

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