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T he jewelry business has long operated under the gold standard, but these days, designers are using the dramatic rise in the cost of this precious metal as an opportunity to rework their visions of high-end. With gold hovering above $1,400 per ounce (from $872 in 2008), many have sought out alternative materials

to reduce cost and diversify their aesthetics. The results include unique pieces in bronze, brass, and copper that integrate gold spar-ingly with techniques such as plating and wiring. “Stones and gold will never go out of style, so I still try to incorporate them into my pieces, whether it’s in a chain or a charm,” says Ingrid Hergert of her newest collection for Charmed by Ingrid Anne. And Sarah Greenberg, the designer behind Sarah Swell, has noticed greater interest over the past year in her sea-inspired sterling silver. “The increasing cost of gold has a natural effect on what my customers are looking to buy,” she says. The newest pieces to come out of California are good as gold—but won’t break the bank.

2 SARAH SWELLThe Oakland designer’s

newest collection, which Sarah Greenberg molds herself in her East Bay studio, is heavy on the bronze and mimics natural crystal formations. The rings can be worn alone or stacked (as shown above) for metallic depth. Sterling silver and bronze patina ridgeback rings, $117; bronze with diamond ring, $234; sarahswell.com

4 CHARMED BY INGRID ANNE

Ingrid Hergert, Facebook sales whiz by day, jewelry designer by night, creates detailed accessories for simple tastes. She uses gold adornments in vintage-inspired pieces for daily wear, like this black gunmetal pendant on an antique brass chain. Gunmetal spiral necklace, $40, charmedbyingridanne.com

1 EVE SINGERA textile designer with a

longtime appreciation for the versatility and natural hues of brass and copper, Eve Singer makes architectural statement bracelets and necklaces that channel a high-end look and wear edgy and feminine at the same time. Two-tone copper and brass Bracer cuff with sterling detail, $150, evesinger.com

5 A PEACE TREATYA Peace Treaty’s handmade

pieces help support its artisans, many of whom live in areas of political strife. Showcasing the metal-smithing talents of India’s Rajasthan region, these gold-plated brass triangles, part of a collection à la ’70s style icon Bianca Jagger, are both ornate and subtle. Damor earrings, $150, apeacetreaty.com

3 NIKKI MONTOYALos Angeles-based Nikki

Montoya works primarily in bronze, putting her USC sculpture degree to good use. Paying homage to Native American mythology, this braided bronze and copper chain with arrow-shaped drops is part of Montoya’s Totem collection and was designed with durability in mind. Golden braid and drops necklace, $140, nikkimontoya.com

The AlchemistsAs the price of gold soars, designers make alternative metals shine. BY KELLY MENDEZ

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