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Beach Process StudiesTechnical Report No. 23

Part A

Selected BibliographyOn Beach Features and Related Nearshore Processes

C-5 I - Compiled by<Robert Dolan

U) 0and

James McCloy

Coastal Studies Institute

Louisiana State University4 ~Baton Rouge, Louisiana JN~JUN 8 1965

Contribution No. 64C G

The first part of the twenty-third in a series of reports obtainedunder Project No. Nonr 1575(03), Task Order No. NR 388 002 of the

Geography Branch, Office of Naval Research

______ November 15, 1964 Copy No. 2

SELECTED BIBLIOGRAPHY

ON BEACH FEATURES AND RELATED NEARSHORE PROCESSES

Compiled by

Robert Dolanand

James McCloy

COASTAL STUDIES INSTITUTELOUISIANA STATE UNIVERSITY

Baton Rouge, Louisiana

Reproduction in whole or in part is permittedfor any purpose of the United States Government

CONTENTS

PART ONE: SUBJECT REFERENCES

THE BEACH AND NEARSHORE 1

A. Coastal Morphology 1

1. General 1

2. Beach Ridges 2

3. Coastal and Beach Dunes 3

4. Inlets 3

5. Storm Induced Changes 3

B. Beach Morphology 4

1. General 4

2. Beach-face Configuration 8

3. Nearshore Bottom Configuration 8

4. Primary Structures and Minor Features 9

C. Measurement Techniques 11

1. Beach (Sub-aerial) 11

2. Nearshore (Submarine) 12

D. Sediment Properties and Transport 13

1. Sediment Characteristics 13

a. General 13

b. Measurements 16

c. Sampling 17

2. Sediment Transport 18

a. General 18

b. Transport by Waves 20

c. Littoral Drift 22

d. Other Methods of Transport 23

e. Tracer Studies 23

Il. BEACH AND NEARSHORE PROCESSES 26

A. General Wave Theory 26

B. Shoaling and Breaking Waves 31

iii

1. General 31

2. Wave Refraction 34

3. Littoral Currents 35

C. Tides and Tidal Currents 35

D. Storms and Hurricanes 36

E. Aeolian Processes 37

F. Measurement Techniques 38

III. COASTAL ENGINEERING 39

A. General Coastal and Beach Engineering 39

B. Specific Engineering Problems 43

IV. QUANTITATIVE ANALYSIS OF DATA 47

A. Directly Related to Beaches or Coasts 47

B. Indirect Application to Beaches or Coasts 48

V. BIBLIOGRAPHIES AND OTHER SOURCE MATERIALS 50

A. Reference Books 50

B. Other Bibliographies 51

C. Periodicals 52

D. Miscellaneous 53

PART TWO: AUTHORS

I. Alphabetical Index of Authors 55

iv

SELECTED BIBLIOGRAPHY

ON BEACH FEATURES AND RELATED NEARSHORE PROCESSES

Compiled by

Robert Dolan and James McCloy

This bibliography is intended to make available to those interested in beach andcoastal research references acquired by the authors during the past several years. 1 Specificfields covered are outlined in the table of contents. In addition to being restricted to thesetopics, this listing is selective in that it is based principally on (a) materials available in thelibraries of Coastal Studies Institute and Louisiana State University, and (b) references con-sidered most relevant by the compilers.

Although no attempt was made to time-restrict the materials considered, about80 per cent of the references are post-1940. This reflects not only the lack of beach processresearch before World War fl, but also the descriptive character of most earlier work.Several general sources for the pre-1940 literature are included in the section headed "Bib-liographies and Other Source Materials," for example D. W. Johnson's (1919) Shore Pro-cesses and Shoreline Development.

A number of the general papers could be listed under more than a single subjectheading; consequently, their classification is based upon the authors' evaluation of theirprincipal content. Some reference materials which were not available have been includedaccording to title only if they seemed to be applicable to the subject of beach and coastal re-search. Accuracy of entries was checked, but since this Was not an exercise in bibliographicresearch, some irregularities are to be expected.

This bibliography is believed to contain approximately 75 per cent of the mostpertinent literature on the subjects under consideration. Many of the references not includedhere are cited within the entries listed under "Bibliographies and Other Source Materials."

The general organization of the bibliography follows that used by G. T. McGill(1960) Selected Bibliography of Coastal Geomorphologv of the World. Style for the individualcitations is a slight alteration of that recommended in Sugestions to Authors of Reports ofthe United States Geological Survey.

1 Preparation of this bibliography was made possible through financial support of theGeography Branch, Office of Naval Research, Contract N onr 1575 (03) NR 388 002, UnitedStates Coast and Geodetic Survey; and the Cape Hatteras National Seashore Recreation Areaof the National Park Service.

v

It is recognized that bibliographies of this nature sometimes omit important refer-ences. This initial compilation should, therefore, be considered in terms of a workingbibliography, subject to changes. Suggestions and additions are solicited and when sufficientmaterials have accumulated, a supplement will be issued.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS: Special appreciation is extended to Dr. James PlumerMorgan who suggested that the bibliography be compiled and made his personal library avail-able. We also wish to thank the following Coastal Studies Institute personnel for making theirreference material available: Mr. James M. Coleman, Mr. Rodney B. Adams, and Mr. S.M. Gagliano. The authors also acknowledge the assistance of Mr. P. B. Larimore in pre-paration of the final report, and Mrs. Grace Fitzgerald in the tedious job of typing the finaldraft.

vi

PART ONE SUBJECT REFERENCES

I. BEACH AND NEARSHORE

I. A. COASTAL MORPHOLOGY

I.A. 1 COASTAL MORPHOLOGY, GENERAL

1. Antonini, G. A., 1962, Development of the 11. Gilluly, J., 1964, Atlantic sediments, erosionHorseshoe Cove Shoreline, Sandy Hook, New ratea,and the evolution of the continentalJersey: Office of Naval Research, Geog. shelf: some speculations: Geol. Soc.Branch, Tech. Report No. 3. America Bull., v. 75, p. 483-492.

2. Athearn, W. D., and Ronne, C., 1963, Shore- 12. Grant, U. S., and Shepard, F. P., 1936,line changes at Cape Hatteras: Naval Changes along the California Coast: Geol.Research Reviews, p. 17-24. Soc. America Proc., p. 75-76.

3. Barnes, F. A., and King, C. A. M., 1957, 13. Grijm, W., 1960, Theoretical forms of shore-The spit at Gibraltar Point, Lincolnshire: lines: Coastal Engineering, Proc. SeventhEast Midland Geog., v. 8, p. 22-31. Conf., p. 197-202.

4. Bird, E. C. F., 1961, The coastal barriers of 14. Gulliver, F. P., 1896, Cuspate forelands: Geog.East Gippsland, Australia: Geog. Jour., Soc. America Bull., v. 7, p. 399-422.v. 127, p. 460-468.

15. Jarocki, W., 1960, Wave effect on the coast5. Bruun, P., 1954, Migrating sand waves or sand formation and erosion: Coastal Engineering,

humps, with special reference to investi- Proc. Seventh Conf., p. 203-210.gations carried out on the Danish North SeaCoast: Coastal Engineering, Proc. Fifth 16. Jennings, J. N., 1955, The influence of waveConf., p. 269-295. action on coastal outline in plan: Australian

Geog., v. 6, p. 36-44.6. Cooper, A. W., 1964, Smith Island and the

Cape Fear Peninsula: A comprehensive 17. Knox, R. W., 1953, Evolution of the Northreport on outstanding natural area: Conser- Carolina Coast: Shore and Beach, v. 21,vation and Legislative Committee, North p. 12-14.Carolina Academy of Science and WildlifePreserves, Inc. 18. Krumbein, W. C., 1950, Littoral processes in

lakes: Coastal Engineering, Proc. First7. Egorov, E. N., 1953, Facts observed about Conf., p. 155-160.

spits extending from beaches: TrudyInstitute Okeanologii AN/SSSR, v. 7. 19. Lewis, W. V., 1932, The formation of Dunge-

ness foreland: Geographical Jour., v. 80,8. Escoffier, F. F., 1954, Traveling forelands p. 309-324.

and the shore line processes associated withthem: U. S. Beach Erosion Board Bull., 20. Lewis, W. V., 1938, Evolution of shorelinev. 8, p. 11-14. curves: Geol. Assoc. Proc., v. 49, p. 107-

127.9. Evans, 0. F., 1942, The origin of spits, bars,

and related structures: Jour. Geology, 21. Leypoldt, H., 1941, Shoreline formation byv. 50, p. 846-865. currents: Shore and Beach, v. 9, p. 21.

10. Gilbert, G. K., 1885, The topographic features 22, Norris, R. M., 1952, Recent history of a sandof lake shores: U. S. Geol. Survey Ann. spit at San Nicolas Island, California: Jour.Report, v. 5, p. 69-123. Sed. Petrology, v. 22, p. 224-228.

23. O'Brien, M. P., and Evans, 0. F,, 1941, 33. Taney, N. E., 1961, Geomorphology of theShoreline formation by currents: Shore and south shore of Long Island, New York:Beach, v. 9, p. 46-47. U. S. Beach Erosion Board Tech. Memo.

128.24. Potter, F. C., and Trager, E. A., 1938,

Geologic Report: Cape Hatteras National 34. Tanner, W. F., 1961, Offshore shoals in areaSeashore: Unpoblished report, National of energy deficit: Jour. of Sed. Petrology,Park Service, Washington, D. C. v. 31, p. 87-95.

25. Rude, G. T., 1922, Shore changes at Cape 35. Tanner, W. F., 1962, Reorientation of convexHatteras: Assoc. Am. Geog., Annals, v. 12, shores: Am. Jour. Sci., v. 260, p. 37-43.p. 87-95.

36. Trask, P. D., 1956, Changes in configuration26. Russell, R. J., 1958, Long, straight beaches: of Point Reyes Beach, California, 1955-56:

Eclogae Geologicae Helvetiae, v. 51, U. S. Beach Erosion Board Tech. Memo. 91.p. 592-598.

27. Schou, A., 1948, Det marine forland: U. S. 37. Tuttle, S. D., 1960, Evolution of the New Hamp-

Beach Erosion Board Bull., v. 2, p. 13-14. shire shoreline: Geol. Soc. America Bull.,v. 71, p. 1211-1222.

28. Shaler, N. S., 1871, On the causes which haveled to the production of Cape Hatteras: 38. Vause, J. E., 1959, Underwater geology and

Boston Soc. Nat. Hist. Proc., v. 14, analysis of recent sedimentation of thep. 110-121. northwest Florida Coast: Jour. Sed. Petrol-

ogy, v. 29, p. 555-563.

29. Shepard, F. P., 1952, Revised nomenclaturefor depositional coastal features: Am.Assoc. 39. Yasso, W. E., 1964, Geometry and development

Petroleum Geologists Bull., v. 36, p. 1902-\ of spit-bar shorelines at Horseshoe Cove,

1912. Sandy Hook, New Jersey: Tech. Rept. No.5 of Project NR 388-057, Contract Nonr

30. Shuster, C. N., 1963, Our ever-changing 266(68) Office of Naval Research Geography

coastline: Estuarine Bull., Univ. Delaware, Branch, Washington, D. C.

v. 7, p. 3-15. 40. Zenkovitch, V. P., 1959, On the genesis of

31. Smith, P. A., 1938, Revised classification of cuspate spits along lagoon shores: Jour.

marine shorelines by F. P. Shepard (re- Geology, v. 67, p. 269-277.

view): Jour. Geomorphology, v. 1, p. 254-255. 41. Zenkovitch, V. P., 1962, Some new exploration

results about sand shores development dur-

32. Steers, J. A., 1951, Notes on erosion along ing the sea transgression: De Ingenieur,

the Coast of Suffolk: Geol. Mag., v. 88, no. 17, Bouw- en Waterbouwkunde 9,

p. 435-439. p. 113-121.

I. A. 2. COASTAL MORPHOLOGY, BEACH RIDGES

42. Bird, E. C. F., 1960, The information of sand 45. Grant, U. S., 1940, Barrier beach formation at

beach ridges: Australian Jour. Sci., v. 22, Long Beach, California: Geol. Soc. Ameri-

p. 349-350. ca Bull., v. 51, p. 1957-1958.

43. Davies, J. L., 1957, The importance of cut 46. Heezen, B. C., 1959, Submerged ancient beach-

and fill in the development of sand beach es of the Atlantic: International Oceano-ridges: Australian Jour. Sci., v. 20, p. graphic Conf., p. 622.105-111.

47. Hoyt, J. H., Vernon, J. H., and Weimer, R. J.,44. Davies, J. L., 1958, Analysis of height vari- 1962, Geologic history and development of

ations in beach ridges: Australian Jour. Sci., the Barrier Islands in the vicinity of Sapelov. 20, p. 21-22. Island, Georgia: Geol. Soc. America Pro-

gram Southeastern Section, p. 21.

2

48. McKenzie, P., 1958, The development of beach 50. Shepard, F. P., 1960, Gulf coast barriers:sand ridges: Australian Jour. Scd., v. 20, Recent Sediments, Northwest Gulf Mexico,p. 213-214. 1951-58, p. 197-220. Consolidated

Bibliography, p. 368-381.49. Price, W. A., 1951, Barrier Island, not off-

shore bar: Science, v. 113, p. 487-488.

I. A. 3. COASTAL MORPHOLOGY, COASTAL AND BEACH DUNES

51. Aufrere, L., 1931, Le cycle morphologique des 57. Page, G. B., 1950, Beach erosion and compo-dunes: Annales de geographie, v. 40, sition of sand dunes, Playa del Rey - Elp. 362-385. Segundo area, California: Univ. Calif.,

Los Angeles, M. A. Thesis, 50 p.52. Bagnold, R. A., 1941, Sand formations in south

Arabia; Geog. Jour., v. 117, p. 77-86. 58. Schou, A., 1952, Direction determining influ-ence of the wind on shoreline simplification

53. Bryan, K. and Nichols, R. L., 1939, Wind and coastal dunes: VIIIth General Assembly-deposition shorelines: Jour. Geology, v. 47, XVIIth Congress, International Geographicalp. 431-435. Union Proc., Washington, D. C.

54. Cooper, W. S., 1934, Types of Pacific Coast 59. Shaler, N. S., 1894, Phenomena of beach anddunes: Am. Assoc. Geog. Annals, v. 24, dune sands: Geol. Soc. America Bull., v.5,p. 46. p. 207-212.

55. Cooper, W. S., 1958, Coastal sand dunes of 60. Smith, H. T. U., 1954, Coastal dunes: CoastalOregon and Washington: Geol. Soc. America Geography Conf., Office of Naval ResearchMemo. 72, 169 p. p. 51-56.

56. Landsberg, S. Y., 1956, The orientation ofdunes in Britain and Denmark in relation tothe wind: Geog. Jour., v. 122, p. 176-189.

I.A.4. COASTAL MORPHOLOGY, INLETS

61. Bowman, J. C., 1953, The case for Lockwood's 65. Rude, G. T., 1928, Discussion of inlets onFolly Inlet: Shore and Beach, v. 21, p.23-2 7. sandy coasts: Am. Soc. of Civil Engineers,

Proc., v. 54, p. 503-553.62. Brown, E. I., 1928, Inlets of sandy coasts: Am.

Soc. Civil Engineers, Proc., v.54, p. 505-553. 66. Saville, T., Jr., 1941, Investigations of coastalerosion and inlet migrations in North

63. Brown, R. C., 1953, Birth of an inlet - Caro- Carolina: Shore and Beach, v. 2, p. 29-32.lina Beach Inlet, N. Carolina: Shore andBeach, v. 21, p. 20-21. 67. Welch, W. L., 1886, Opening Hatteras Inlet:

Essex Inst., Bull., v. 17, p. 37-42.64. Drane, B. S. , 1923, Additional inlets on the

North Carolina coast: North CarolinaFisheries Commission.

I. A. 5. COASTAL MORPHOLOGY, STORM INDUCED CHANGES

68. Bamesberger, J. G., 1939, Erosion losses from damage along the coasts of Florida and

a 3-day California storm: U. S. Dept. of Mississippi: U. S. Beach Erosion BoardAgri., Soil Conserv. Service Bull., v. 2, p. 1-7.

71. Bretschneider, C. L., 1964, The Ash Wednesday69. Barnes, F. A., and King, C. A. M., 1955, Beach es os trMrh58 92 id

changes in Lincolnshire since the 1953 storm

surge: East Midland Geog., v.4, p. 18-28. cast of events, causes, and effects: NationalEngineering Science Co. (NESCO report

70. Beach Erosion Board, 1948, Recent storm SN-134-4), Washington, D. C.

3

72. Brown, C. W., 1939, Hurricanes and shoreline along the southern California coasts: Shorechanges in Rhode Island: Geog. Rev., v. 29, and Beach, v. 3, p. 61-64.p. 416-420.

82. Morgan, J. P., 1959, Coastal morphological73. Bruun, P., Chiu, T., Gerritsen, F., and changes resulting from hurricane "Audrey":

Morgan, W. H., 1962, Storm Tides in Flor- Salt Marsh Conf. Proc. , The Marineida as related to coastal topography: Florida Institute, University of Georgia, C.S.1.Eng. and Ind. Exp. Sta., Univ. Florida, No. 59-6.Gainsville, v. 16.

83. Nichols, R. L., and Marston, A. P., 1939,74. Caldwell, J. M., 1959, Shore erosion by storm Shoreline changes in Rhode Island produced

waves: U. S. Beach Erosion Board Misc. by hurricane of September 23, 1938: Geol.Paper, No. 1-59. Soc. America Bull., v. 50, p. 1357-1370.

84. Podufaly, E. T., 1962, Operation five-high:75. Chamberlain, J. L., 1959, Influence of Hurri- SoeadBah .3,p -8cane Audrey on the coastal marsh of

southwestern Louisiana: Coastal Studies 85. Prentiss, L. W., 1951, Gulf hurricanes andInstitute, Louisiana State University, Tech. their effects on the Texas coast: CoastalReport No. 10, Part B. Engineering, Proc. Second Conf., p. 208-

76. Chute, N. E., 1946, Shoreline changes along 216.

the south shore of Cape Cod caused by the 86. Price, W. A., 1956, Hurricanes affecting thehurricane of Sept. 1944, and the storms of coast of Texas fromGalveston to RioNov. 30, 1944 and Jan. 1, 1945: U. S. Grande: U. S. Beach Erosion Board Tech.Dept. of the Int., Geol. Survey. Memo. 78.

77. Hite, M. D., 1924, Some observations of storm 87. Snow, B. C., 1955, Effects of hurricane oneffects on ocean inlets: Am. Jour. Sci., North Carolina beaches: Shore and Beach,v. 207, p. 319-326. v. 23, p. 14-17.

78. Howard, A. D., 1939, Hurricane modifications 88. Stoddart, D. R., 1962, Catastrophic stormof the offshore bar of Long Island, N. Y.: effects on the British Honduras reefs andGeog. Rev., v. 29, p. 400-415. cays: Nature, v. 196, p. 512-515.

79. Longinov, V. V., 1950, The transformation of 89. Todd, D. K., and Wiegel, R. L., 1951, Localbeaches along the North Casucasian Coast by storms of the Pacific Coast and their efiectsthe action of storm waves in August of 1949: on wave and beach conditions: Berkeley,Priroda, no. 7. Calif., Eng. Foundation Tech. Rept. 324,

15. p.80. McCrone, W. P., 1956, Gulf hurricanes and

their effects on Texas shores and beaches: 90. Ziegler, J. M., Hayes, R. H., and Tuttle, S. D.,Shore and Beach, v. 24, p. 23-27. 1959, Beach changes during storms on outer

Cape Cod, Massachusetts: Jour. Geology,81. McEwen, G. F., 1935, Destructive high waves v. 67, p. 318-336.

I.B. BEACH MORPHOLOGY

I.B. 1. BEACH MORPHOLOGY, GENERAL

91. Anonymous, 1938, Manual procedure in beach characteristics: Manual of Amphibious Ocea-erosion studies: U. S. Beach Erosion Board nography, Office of Naval Research,Paper No. 2. Washington, D. C.

92. Bagnold, R. A., 1940, Beach formation by 94. Bascom, W. N., 1954, Characteristics ofwaves, some model experiments in a wave natural beaches: Coastal Engineering Proc.tank: Jour. Inst. Civil Eng., v. 15, p. 27-52. Second Conf., p. 163-180.

93. Bascom, W. N., 1951, Shoreline and beach 95. Bascom, W. N., 1960, Beaches: Scientific

4

American, v. 203, p. 80-94. 110. Hoyle, J. W., and King, G. T., 1958, Theorigin and stability of beaches: Coastal

96. Beach Erosion Board, 1947, A study of compara- Engineering, Proc. Sixth Conf., p. 281-301.tive action of waves on model beaches ofdifferent scales: U. S. Beach Erosion 111. Inman, D. L., 1950, Report on beach study inBoard Bull., v. 1, p. 5-8. the vicinity of Magu Lagoon, California:

U. S. Beach Erosion Board Tech. Memo. 14.97. Beach Erosion Board, 1947, Laboratory study

of equilibrium beach profiles: U. S. Beach 112. Inman, D. L., 1953, Beach and nearshoreErosion Board Bull., v. 1, p. 5-11. processes along the Southern California

Coast: U. S. Beach Erosion Board, Sub-98. Bruun, P., 1953, Forms of equilibrium of coasts marine Geology Dept. No. 27, S.1.0. Ref.

with a littoral drift: Berkeley, Calif., Eng. 53-35.Foundation, Wave Research Lab. Tech.Rept., Series 3. 113. Inman, D. L. and Filloux, J., 1960, Beach

cycles related to tide and local wind wave99. Bruun, P., 1954, Coast erosion and development regime: Jour. Geology, v. 68, p. 225-231.

of beach profiles: U. S. Beach ErosionBoard Tech. Memo. 44. 114. Inman, D. L., and Rusnak, R. A., 1956,

Changes in sand level on the beach and shelf100. Caldwell, J. M., 1949, Beach erosion: at La Jolla, California: U. S. Beach

Scientific Monthly, v. 69, p. 229-235. Erosion Board Tech. Memo. 82.

101. Cornish, V., 1898, On Sea-beaches and sand- 115. Isaacs, J. C., and Bascom, W. N., 1949,banks: Geog. Jour., v. 11, p. 528-543. Water Table Elevations in some Pacific

coast beaches: Am. Geophys. Union Trans.,102. Cornish, V., 1901, Sand waves in tidal currents: v. 30, p. 293-294.

Geological Jour., v. 18, p. 170-202.116. Johnson, R., 1961, Wecheelbeziehungen

103. Eaton, R. 0., 1950, Littoral processes on zwischen der Welle und dem Strandanahensandy coasts: Coastal Engineering, Proc. Unterwasserhang: Veroffentlichungen DerFirst Conf., p. 140-154. Forchungsanstalt Fur Schiffahrt, Wasser-

Und Grundbau, No. 9.104. Egorov, E. N., 1951, Some forms of accumu-

lative shores generated by longitudinal 117. Johnson, J. W., 1949, Scale effects in hy-movement of sediment: Doklady AN/SSSR, draulic models involving wave motion: Am.v. 80, no. 5. Geophys. Union Trans., v. 30, p. 517-529.

105. Emery, K. 0., and Foster, J. F., 1948, Water 118. Jones, J. H., 1948, Wave action on beaches:tables in marine beaches: Jour. Marine Univ. Calif., M. S. Thesis.Research, v. 7, p. 644-653.

119. Kerr, A. R., 1938, Littoral erosion and106. Grant, U. S., 1948, Effect of ground-water deposition of Santa Monica Bay: Univ.

table on beach erosion: Geol. Soc. America Calif., Los Angeles, M. S. Thesis, 49 p.Bull., v. 57, p. 1252.

120. King, C. A. M., 1953, The relationship107. Grant, U. S., 1948, Influence of water table on between wave incidence, wind direction and

beach aggredation and degradation: Jour. beach changes at Marsden Bay, CountyMarine Research, v. 7, p. 655-660. Durham: Inst. British Geog. Trans., v. 19,

p. 13-23.108. Grant, U. S., and Shepard, F. P., 1937,

Magnitude of some shore processes in 121. Komudai, R., 1959, On the Marine geology ofsouthern California: Geol. Soc. America beach erosion: Japanese HydrographicProc., p. 239-240. Office, Tokyo.

109. Grant, U. S., and Shepard, F. P., 1938, 122. Kressner, B., 1928, Hydraulic experimentsShort-period oscillations of southern Call- with models on the effect of currents andfornia beaches and adjacent sea floor: Geol. surf breakers upon a sandy sea beach:Soc. America Proc., p. 84-85. Bautechnik, v. 6.

5

123. Krumbein, W. C., 1938, Beach environment in model relating dynamics and sedimentLittle Sister Bay, Wisconsin: Geol. Soc. pattern in equilibrium in the region of shoal-America Bull., v. 49, p. 629-652. ing waves, breaker zone, and foreshore:

Jour. of Geology, v. 66, p. 417-441.124. Krumbein, W. C., 1944, Shore processes and

beach characteristics: U. S. Beach Erosion 138. Nichols, R. L., 1961, Characteristics ofBoard Tech.Memo. 3. beaches formed in polar climates: IGY

Glaciological Report No. 4.125. Lapsley, W. W., 1937, Sand movement and

beach erosion: Univ. Calif., M. S. Thesis, 139. Norrman, J. 0., 1964, Lake Vittern, investi-

27 p. gation on shore and bottom morphology:Meddelanden Fran Uppsala Universitets

126. Leontyev, 0. K., 1954, Morphological analysis Geografiska Institution, Ser. A, Nr. 194as one of the main methods in the study ofdynamics of the seashore: Vestnik Moskovs- 140. Patrick, D. A., 1953, Comparison of beachkogo Gos. Universiteta, No. 10. elevation at limits of backwash and uprush

with U. S. Coast and Geodetic Survey tide127. Lewy, H., 1946, Water waves on sloping predictions on several Pacific Coast beaches:

beaches: Am. Math. Soc. Bull., v. 52, Am. Geophys. Union Trans., v. 34, p. 337.p. 737-775.

141. Rector, R. L., 1954, Laboratory study of128. Longinov, V. V., 1954, Laws governing the equilibrium profiles of beaches: U. S.

development of pebbly beaches: Trudy Beach Erosion Board Tech. Memo. 41.Instituta (keanologii AN/SSSR, v. 10.

142. Schupp, R. D., 1953, A study of the cobble129. Longinov, V. V., 1954, Some problems as to beach cusps along Santa Monica Bay, Cali-

methods in the study of dynamics of the fornia: Univ. Southern Calif., M.S. Thesis,shore zone: Trudy Instituta Okeanologii 131 p.AN/SSSR, v. 19.

143. Seed, H. B., 1951, Beach trafficability and130. Longinov, V. V., 1956, The basis and problems stabilization: Manual of Amphibious Oceano-

of the study of the dynamics of seashores: graphy, Office of Naval Research,Trudy Instituta Geografii AN/SSSR, v. 68. Washington, D. C.

131. Martens, J. H. C., 1931, Beaches of Florida: 144. Shaler, N. S., 1895, Beaches and tidal marshesFlorida Geol. Survey 21st-22nd Ann. Rept., of the Atlantic coast: Natl. Geog. Soc.p. 67-119. Mono. No. 1, p. 137-168.

132. Martens, J. H. C., 1938, Beaches: Recent 145. Shepard, F. P., 1950, Beach cycles inMarine Sediments: Symposium, Am. Assoc. southern California: U. S. Beach Erosionof Petroleum Geologists, p. 207-218. Board Tech. Memo. 20.

133. Martens, J. H. C., 1941, Characteristics of 146. Shepard, F. P., and Grant, U. S., 1947,beaches suitable for motoring: Shore and Wave erosion along the southern California

Beach, v. 2, p. 122-124. coast: Geol. Soc. America Bull., v. 58,p. 919-926.

134. Mason, M. A., 1942, Related problems in 147. Shepard, F. P., Inman, E. L., and Fisher,shore processes and oceanography: Am. R. L., 1951, Marive beaches of the UnitedGeophys. Union Trans., v. 23, p. 325-327. States: Geol. Soc. America Bull., v. 62,

p. 1477-1478.135. Medvedev, V. S., 1957, A brief outline of the

dynamics and morphology of the west coast 148. Simmons, H. B., 1950, Contribution of hydrau-of the White Sea: Trudy Okeanogr. Komissii, lic models to coastal sedimentation studies:v. 2. Coastal Engineering, Proc. First Cof.,

136. Meyer, R. D., 1936, A model study of wave p. 161-168.action on beaches: Univ. Calif. M. S.Thesis. 149. Starz, J., 1960, COtes africaines. Etude des

profile d'Aquilibre de plages: Travaux du

137. Miller, R. L., and Zeigler, J. M., 1958, A Centre d'Etudes et de Recherches Oceano-

6

graphiques, v. 3, p. 43-62. 163. Wiegel, R. L., Patrick, D. A., and Kimberly,H. L., 1954, Wave, longshore current, and

150. Steers, J. A., 1957, How are beaches supplied beach profile records for Santa, Margaritawith shingle?: Coastal Engineering, Proc. River Beach, Oceanside, California: Am.Sixth Conf., p. 302-313. Geophys. Union Trans. , v. 35, p. 887-896.

151. Stetson, H. C. , 1954, A preliminary investi- 164. Williams, W. W. , 1947, The determination ofgation of shifting beach profiles: Coastal gradients on enemy-held beaches: Geog.Geography Conference, Sponsored by the Jour. v. 109, p. 76-93.Office of Naval Research and the NRCCommittee on Geography, p. 57. 165. Wood, H. A., 1951, Procedure in studying

shore erosion: Canadian Geog., no. 1,152. Sweeting, M. M., 1943, Wave trough experi- pp. 31-37.

ments on beach profiles: Geog. Jour.,v. 101, p. 163-172. 166. Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, 1954,

Beach studies in the Cape Cod area: Ref.153. Tanner, W. F., 1958, The equilibrium beach: No. 55-12, Periodic Status Report, Unpub.

Am. Geophys. Union Trans., v. 39, p. 889. Report.

154. Tanner, W. F., 1959, Near-shore studies in 167. Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution, 1954,sedimentation and morphology along Florida Beach studies in the Cape Cod area: Ref.Panhandle Coast: Jour. Sed. Petrology, No. 54-59, Periodic Status Report, Unpub.v. 29, p. 564-575. Report.

155. Thompson, W. F., and Thompson, J. B., 1919, 168. Yalin, M. S. , 1963, A model shingle beach withThe spawning of the grunion: Calif. State permeability and drag forces reproduced:Fish and Game Comm. Fish Bull. 3 Inter. Assoc. Hydraulic Res. Congress,

London, p. 169-175.156. Trask, P. D., 1955, Beaches near San Francis-

co, California: Berkeley, Calif. , Eng. 169. Zenkovitch, V. P., 1946, Dynamics andFoundation, Wave Research Lab., Series 14, morphology of the seashores: Sea Transport,Issue 21. v. 4, The wave processes, 496 p.

157. Trask, P. D., 1959, Beaches near San Francis-co, California, 1956-1957: U.S. Beach 170. Zenkovitch, V. P., 1946, On the study of shoreErosion Board Tech. Memo. 110. dynamics: Trudy, Inst. Okeanologii I,

p. 99-112.158. Trask, P. D., and Rolston, J.W., 1950,

Relation of shear strength of sediment towater content and grain size: Science, v. 3, 171. Zenkovich, V. P., 1957, New work in the fieldp. 666-667. of the study of the dynamics of seashores:

Meteorologiya I Gidrologiya, no. 10.159. Waters, C. H., 1939, Equilibrium slopes of

sea beaches: Univ. Calif. M. S. Thesis, 172. Zenkovitch, V. P., 1962, Some problems and71 p. methods of shore-dynamics investigations

in the U.S. S. R. : De Ingenieur, Bouw- en160. Watts, G. M., 1954, Laboratory study of effect Waterbouwkunde, v. 8, p. 95-107.

of varying wave periods on beach profiles:U. S. Beach Erosion Board Tech. Memo. 53. 173. Ziegler, J. M., 1955, Beach studies in the

Cape Cod area: Woods Hole Oceanographic161. Watts, G. M., and Dearduff, R. F., 1954, Inst., Ref. No. 55-42, Periodic Status

Effect of tidal action on wave formed beach Report, Unpub. Report.profiles: U. S. Beach Erosion Board Tech.Memo. 83.

162. Wiegel, R. L., and Others, 1953, Waves, tides 174. Ziegler, J. M., 1956, Beach studies in the

and beaches: Manual of Amphibious Oceano- Cape Cod area: Woods Hole Oceanographic

graphy, Officer of Naval Research, Wash- Inst., Ref. No. 56-42, Periodic Status

ington, D. C. Report, Unpub. Report.

7

175. Ziegle. J. M,, 1956, Beach studies in the Inst. , Ref. No. 57-62, Periodic StatusCap 00,I area: Woods Hole Oceanographic Report, Unpub. Report.Inst,, ief, No. 57-4, Periodic StatusRepo t, Unpub. Report. 177. Ziegler, J. M., and Tuttle, S. D., 1961,

Beach changes based on daily measurements

176. Ziegler, J. M., 1957, Beach studies in the of four Cape Cod beaches: Jour. of Geology,Cape Cod area: Woods Hole Oceanographic v. 69, p. 583-599.

I. B. 2. BEACH MORPHOLOGY, BEACH-FACE CONFIGURATION

178. Bascom, W. H. , 1951, The relationship between wave action and beach profile characteristics:

sand size and beach face slope: Am. Coastal Engineering, Proc. Seventh Conf.,Geophys. Union Trans. , v. 32, p. 866-874. p. 262-277.

179. Beach Erosion Board, 1937, Relation of beach 190. Kuenen, Ph. H., 1948, The formation of beachslope to sand characteristics: U. S. Beach cusps: Jour. Geology, v. 56, p. 34-40.Erosion Board, Unpub. Memo.

191. Lewis, W. V., 1931, The effect of wave inci-180. Boy6, M., 1954, Solution granulomgtrique au dence on the configuration of a shingle beach:

probl~me des croissnats de plage: Rev. Geog. Jour., v. 78, p. 129-148.Ge6morphol. dynam., v. 5, p. 241-273.

192. Longinov, V. V., and Pasechnik, L. D., 1953,

181. Branner, J. C., 1900, The origin of beach The principal laws governing the developmentcusps: Jour. Geology, v. 8, p. 481-484. of the profile of pebbly beaches: Trudy

Instituta Okeanologii AN/SSSR, v. 7.182. Brown, C. V., 1937, Relationship of beach

slopes to sand characteristics: U. S. 193. Longuet-Higgins, M. S. , and Parkin, D. W.,

Beach Erosion Board, Unpub. Report. 1962, Sea waves and beach cusps: Geog.Jour., v. 128, p. 194-201.

183. Evans, 0. F., 1938, Classification and origin 194. Riviere, A., and Vernhet, S., 1953, Sur Iaof beach cusps: Jour. Geology, v. 46, formation des croissants de plage et leap. 615-627. mouvement de sAdiments dan le profil:

C. R. Ac. Sc., v. 237, p. 659-661.

184. Evans, 0. F., 1945, Further observations on

the origin of beach cusps: Jour. Geology, 195. Rosalsky, M. B., 1949, A study of minor beachv. 53, p. 403-404. features at Fire Island, Long Island, New

York: New York Acad. Sci. : Trans., v. 12,185. Evans, 0. F., 1945, Scientific beachcombing: p. 9-16.

Scientific Monthly, v. 61, p. 245-248.

196. Shepard, F. P., 1935, Gravel cusps on the186. Guilcher, A., 1949, Observations sur les crois- California coast related to tides: Science,

sants de plage: Soc. gol. France Bull., v. 82, p. 251-253.v. 19, p. 15-30.

197. Shepard, F. P., 1938, Beach cusps and tides,

187. Jefferson, M. S. W., 1899, Beach cusps: Jour. a discussion: Am. Jour. Sci., v. 35,Geology, v. 8, p. 237-246. p. 309-310.

188. Johnson, D. W., 1910, Beach cusps: Geol. Soc. 198. Smith, D. and Dolan, R., 1960, ErosionalAmerica Bull., v. 21, p. 599-624. development of beach cusps along the outer

banks of North Carolina: Geol. Soc. America189. Kemp, P. H., 1960, The relationship between Bull., v. 71, p. 1979.

I.B.3. BEACH MORPHOLOGY, NEARSHORE BOTTOM CONFIGURATION

199. Beach Erosion Board, 1948, An experimental 200. Blanton, S. L., Jr., 1951, Origin of offshorestudy of submarine sand bars: U. S. Beach bars: Geol. Soc. America Bull., v. 62,Erosion Board Tech. Rept. 3. p. 1424.

8

201. Eagleson, P. S., Glenne, B., and Dracup, J.A., processes: Am. Geophys. Union Trans.,1945, Equilibrium characteristics of sand v. 30, p. 855-861.beaches in the offshore zone: U. S. BeachErosion Board, Tech. Memo. 126. 209. King, C. A. M., and Williams, W. W., 1949,

The formation and movement of sand bars202. Egorov, E. N., 1951, Observations relative to by wave action: Geog. Jour., v. 103,

the dynamics of sand reefs: Trudy Instituta p. 70-85.Okeanologii AN/SSSR, v. 6.

210. McKee, E. D., and Street, T. S., 1961, Labo-203. Egorov, E. N., 1954, Some characteristics of ratory experiments on form and structure

the heavy sea and wave currents within the of longshore bars and beaches: Geometryzone of submarine reefs: Trudy Instituta of Sandstone Bodies, The Am. Assoc.Okeanologii AN/SSSR, v. 8. Petroleum Geologists.

204. Evans, 0. F., 1940, The low and ball of the 211. Munk, W. H., and Traylor, M. A., 1947,eastern shore of Lake Michigan: Jour. Refraction of ocean waves: a process link-Geology, v. 48, p. 476-511. ing underwater topography tobeacherosion:

Jour. Geology, v. 55, p. 1-26.205. Inman, D. L., 1950, Submarine topography and

sedimentation in the vicinity of Magu Sub- 212. Nichols, R. L., 1948, Flying bars: Am. Jour.marine Canyon, California: U. S. Beach Sci., v. 246, p. 96-100.Erosion Board Tech. Memo. 19.

213. Shepard, F. P., 1942, Further discussion of206. Keulegan, G. H., 1944, An experimental study the term "low and ball": Jour. Geology,

of submarine sand bars: U. S. Beach v. 50, p. 216-217.Erosion Board Tech. Memo. 3.

214. Shepard, F. P., 1950, Longahore bars and207. Keulegan, G. H., 1945, Depths of offshore bars: longshore troughs: U. S. Beach Erosion

U. S. Beach Erosion Board Tech. Memo. 8. Board Tech. Memo. 15.

208. Keulegan, G. H., and Krumbein, W. C., 1949, 215. Waterways Experiment Station, 1939, ModelStable configuration of bottom slope in a study of an outer bar: Hydrol. Ser. Bull.,shallow sea and its bearing on geological v. 2.

I. B. 4. BEACH MORPHOLOGY, PRIMARY STRUCTURES AND MINOR FEATURES

216. Allen, J., 1951, Tidal sand ripples, Dock & low water mark: Rept. British Assoc.,Harbour Auth., v. 31, p. 348. p. 733-734.

217. Atwood, W. G., and Johnson, A. A., 1924, 222. Dapples, E. C., 1942, The effect of macro-Marine structures, their deterioration and organisms upon near-shore marine sediments:preservation: Rept. Comm. on Marine Jour. Sed. Petrology, v. 12, p. 118-126.Piling Inv., Div. of Eng. and Indus. Res.,Natl. Res. Coun., Washington, D. C., 534p.

223. Darwin, G. H., 1883, On the formation of218. Ayrton, H., 1910, The origin and growth of ripple mark in sand: Royal Soc. London

ripple marks: Royal Soc., London, Philos. Proc., v. 36, p. 18-43.Trans., v. 84, p. 285-310.

224. Demarest, D. F., 1947, Rhomboid ripple marks219. Brown, A. P., 1912, The formation of ripple- and their relationships to beach slope: Jour.

marks, tracks, and trails: Natl. Acad. Sci. Sed. Petrology, v. 17, p. 18-22.Proc., v. 63, p. 536-547.

220. Bucher, W. H., 1919, On ripples and related 225. Emery, K. 0., 1944, Beach markings made bysedimentary surface forms and their paleo- sand hoppers: Jour. Sed. Petrology, v. 14,geographic interpretation: Am. Jour. Sci., p. 26-28.v. 47, p. 181.

226. Emery, K. 0., 1945, Entrapment of air in beach221. Cornish, V., 1900, On tidal sand ripples above sand: Jour. Sed. Petrology, v. 15, p. 39-49.

9

227. Emery, K. 0., and Gale, J. F., 1951, Swash 241. Hunt, A. R., 1882, On the formation of rippleand swash mark: Am. Geophys. Union, marks: Royal Soc. London Proc. , v. 34,Trans., v. 32, p. 31-36. p. 1-19.

228. Emery, K. 0., and Hoggin, D., 1958, Gases in 242. Hunt, A. R., 1884, Description of oscillationmarine sediments: Am. Assoc. Petroleum ripple marks: Royal Soc. Dublin Proc.,Geologists, v. 42, p. 2174-2188. v. 4, p. 261-262.

229. Emery, K. 0., and Stevenson, R. E., 1950, 243. Inman, D. L., 1957, Wave-generated ripplesLaminated beach sand: Jour. Sed. Petrology, in nearshore sands: U. S. Beach Erosionv. 20, p. 220-223. Board Tech. Memo. 100.

230. Evans, 0. F., 1929, Old beach markings in the 244. Jaggar, T. A., Jr., 1894, Some conditions forwestern Wichita mountains: Jour. Geology, ripple mark: American Geology, v. 13,v. 37, p. 76-82. p. 199-201.

231. Evans. 0. F., 1938, Floating sand in the form- 245. Johnson, D. W., 1916, Contributions to theation of swash marks: Jour. of Sed. Petro- study of ripple marks: Jour. Geology, v. 24,logy, v. 8, p. 71. p. 809-819.

232. Evans, 0. F., 1941, The classification of wave- 246. Keesling, S., 1953, Rhomboid beach markings:formed ripple marks: Jour. Sed. Petrology, Univ. Southern Calif., Unpub. Sedimentationv. 11, p. 37-41. Rept., 10 p.

233. Evans, 0. F., 1943, Effect of change of wave 247. Kindle, E. M., 1917, Recent and fossil ripplesize on the size and shape of ripple marks: marks: Canadian Geol. Survey Misc. Bull.,Jour. Sed. Petrology, v. 13, p. 35-39. v. 25, p. 22.

234. Evans. 0. F., 1944, Some structural differences 248. Kindle, E. M., 1936, Notes on shallow-waterbetween wind-laid and water-laid deposits on sand structures: Jour. Geology, v. 44,the west shore of Lake Michigan: Jour. Sed. p. 861-869.Petrology, v. 14, p. 96.

249. Kindle, E. M., and Bucker, W. H., 1936,235. Evans, 0. F., 1949, Ripple marks as an aid in Ripple mark and its interpretation: In

determining depositional environment and "Treatise on Sediment", p. 632-668,rock sequence: Jour. Sed. Petrology, v. 19, Williams and Wilkins Co., Balitmore.p. 82-86.

250. Kindle, E. M., and Edwards, E. M., 1924,236. Fairchild, H. L., 1901, Beach structure in the Literature of ripple mark: Pan. American

Medina sandstone: American Geology, v. 28, Geology, v. 41, p. 191-203.p. 9-14.

251. Krumbein, W. C., 1939, Preferred orientation237. Gilbert, G. K., 1880, Ripple marks: Philos. of pebbles in sedimentary deposits: Jour.

Soc. Washington Bull., v. 2, p. 61-62. Geology, v. 47, p. 673-706.

252. Kuenen, Ph. H., 1953, Significant features of

238. Gilbert, G. K., 1899, Ripple marks and cross- graded bedding: Am. Assoc. Petroleumbedding: Geol. Soc. America Bull., v. 10, Geologists Bull., v. 37, p. 1044-1066.p. 135-140.

253. Kuhlman, H., 1957, Investigations on grain239. Hoyt, J. H. and Henry, J. H., 1962, Sedi- sizes of sand from the coastal dunes and the

mentation, structure,and development of beach: Geografisk Tidsskrift bd. 56, Koben-migrating Barrier Islands: Prog. Rep., havn.NSF Grant 16246: Marine Institute, Univ.Georgia. 254. Liu, H., 1957, Mechanics of sediment ripple

formation: Am. Soc. Civil Engineers Proc.,

240. Hoyt, J. H., and Henry, V. J., 1964, Develop- Hydraulics Div., Paper 1197, p. 23.ment and geologic significance of soft beachsand: Sedimentology, v. 3, p. 44-51. 255. McKee, E. D. , 1938, Structure in modern sedi-

10

ments aid in interpreting ancient rocks: 265. Thompson, W. 0. , 1933, Observations on theCarnegie Institute Washington Publications, stratification of beach deposits: Geol. Soc.v. 591, p. 683-694. America Bull. Proc. , v. 44, p. 171.

256. McKee, E. D., 1957, Flume experiments on 266. Thompson, W. 0., 1934, Original structuresthe production of stratification and cross- of beaches: Stanford Univ., Ph.D. Thesis,stratification: Jour. Sed. Petrology, v. 27, 227 p.p. 129- 134.

267. Thompson, W. 0. , 1937, Original structures257. McKee, E. D., 1957, Primary structures in of beaches, bars, and dunes: Geol. Soc.

some recent sediments: Am. Assoc. Petro- America Bull., v. 48, p. 723-751.leum Geologist Bull., v. 41, p. 1704-1747.

268. Tinny, E. R., 1958, Discussion of Liu, 1957,258. McKee, E. D., and Weir, G. W., 1953, Termi- Mechanics of sediment ripple formation:

nology for stratification and cross-stratifi- Am. Soc. Civil Engineers Proc., Hydralicscation in sedimentary rocks: Geol. Soc. Div., v. 84., p. 1558.America, v. 64, p. 381-389.

269. Trefethen, J. M., and Dow, R. L., 1960, Some259. Menard, H. W., 1950, Current-ripple profiles features of modern beach sediments: Jour.

and their development: Jour. Geology, v. 58, Sed. Petrology, v. 30, p. 589-602.p. 152-153.

270. Van Straaten, L. M. J. U., 1950, Periodic260. Moore, D. G., 1951, Rhomboid ripple marks patterns of rippled and smooth areas on

and their relationship to beach characteristics: water surfaces induced by wave action:Univ. Southern Calif., Unpub. Marine K. Ned. Akad. Wet. Proc., v. 53, p. 1217-Geology Rept., 16 p. 1227.

261. Scholl, D. W., 1958, Effects of an arenaceous 271. Van Straaten, L. M. J. U., 1951, Longitudinaltube-building polychaete upon the sorting of ripple marks in mud and sand: Jour. Sed.a beach sand at Abalone Cove, California: Petrology, v. 21, p. 47-54.Compass, v. 35, p. 276-283.

272. Van Straaten, L. M. J. U., 1953, Rhythmic262. Tanner, W. F., 1959, Shallow water ripple patterns on Dutch North Sea beaches: Over-

mark varieties: Jour. Sed. Petrology, v. 30, druk uit Geologie en Mijnbouw, Nw. Serie,p. 481-485. Nr. 2, 15eJaargang, p. 31-43.

263. Tanner, W. F., 1962, Bed roughness effects: 273. Vanoni, V. A., and Brooks, N. H., 1958, Dis-meandering, braiding, rippling: Geol. Soc. cussion of Liu (1957), Mechanics of sedimentAmerica Proc., Southeastern Section, p. 27. ripple formation: Am. Soc. Civil Engineers

Proc., Hydraulics Div., v. 84, p. 1558-17-264. Tanner, W. F., and Waskom, J. D., 1962, 1558-31.

Mechanical model for ripple-mark studies:Geol. Soc. America Proc., Southeastern 274. Woodford, A. 0., 1935, Rhomboid ripple marks:Section, p. 27. Am. Jour. Sci. , v. 29, p. 518-525.

I. C. 1. MEASUREMENT TECHNIQUES, BEACH (SUB-AERIAL)

275. Beach Erosion Board, 1947, Hydrographic Sur- Eng., v. 14, p. 463-472.vey operations of field research group: U. S.Beach Erosion Board Bull., v. 1, p. 1-5. 278. Dietz, R. S., 1947, Aerial photographs in the

geological study of shore features and pro-276. Beach Erosion Board, 1947, Test of aerial cesses: Photogram. Eng., v. 13, p. 537-

photogrammetry in making beach surveys: 545.U. S. Beach Erosion Board Bull., v. 1,p. 1-5.

279. Kunzler, R. H., 1962, Time-lapse photography277. Coleman, C. G., 1948, Photographic interpre- of minor beach structurcs: Geol. Soc.

tation of coasts and beaches: Photogram. America Proc., Southeastern Section, p. 22.

11

280. Le Fur, A., 1950, Sur la Dftermination du the study of sedimentary structures: Sedi-

gradient des plages par examen del la houle mentology, v. 3, p. 75-78.

stir lee photographies aeriennes: C. 0. E. C.Bull., v. 2, p. 125-138. 284. Williams, W. W., 1947, The determination of

gradients on enemy-held beaches: Geog.

281. McCurdy, P. G., 1947, Manual of coastal Jour., v. 109, p. 76-93.

delineation from aerial photographs: H. 0.Pub. No. 592, Washington, D. C.

285. Ziegler, J. M., and Ronne, F. C., 1957, Time

282. Shepard, F. P., 1950, Photography related to lapse photography - an aid to the studies of

investigation of shore processes: Symposium shorelines: Research Review, Office of

of information relative to uses of aerial Naval Research, April, p. 1-6.

photographs by geologists, PhotogrammetricEng., v. 16, p. 756-769. 286. Ziegler, J. M., and Ronne, F. C., 1958,

Coastline photographs: Industrial photo-

283. Swarbrick, E. E., 1964, A peel technique for graphy, p. 40-41.

I. C. 2. MEASUREMENT TECHNIQUES, NEARSHORE (SUBMARINE)

287. Barnes, H. , 1955, Underwater television and Instrumentation, p. 101-122.research in marine biology, bottom topo-graphy and geology: Dtach. hydrogr. A. 8, 296. Holme, N. A., 1955, An improved "vacuum"p. 213-236. grab for sampling the sea floor: Jour.

Marine Biol. Assoc., p. 545-551.288. Beach Erosion Board, 1947, Comparison of

leadline and echo sounding results using 297. Hough, J. L., 1938, Bottom-sampling appara-

amphibious trucks: U. S. Beach Erosion tus: Recent Marine Sediment, A Symposium,Board Bull., v. 1, p. 5-8. Am. Assoc. of Petroleum Geologists, p.

631-664.289. Beach Erosion Board, 1947, Notes on compari-

sons of echo sounders: U. S. Beach Erosion 298. Isaacs, J. D., 1945, A device for traversingBoard Bull., v. 1, p. 3-10. the surf zone of ocean beaches: Berkeley,

Calif., Eng. Foundation, Fluid Mech. Lab.,290. Beach Erosion Board, 1948, Review of shallow Rept. 90.

water survey methods: U. S. Beach ErosionBoard Bull., v. 2, p. 8-12. 299. Isaacs, J. D., 1945, Report on beach survey

with sea sled and mast at Pismo, California:291. Chesterman, W. D., Clynick, P. R., and Berkeley, Calif., Eng. Foundation, Fluid

Stride, A. H., 1958, An acoustic aid to Mech. Lab., Rept. HE-116-135.sea bed survey: Acustica, v. 8, p. 285-290.

300. Isaacs, J. D., and Iselin, C. O'D., 1952,292. Egorov, E. N., and Popov, V. A., 1958, A Oceanographic instrumentation: Division of

cable railway installed for the purpose of Physical Sciences, National Academy ofstudying the transportation of sediments: Sciences, National Research Council.Trudy Instituta Okeanologil AN/SSSR, v. 28.

301. Kidson, C., Steers, J. A., and Flemming,N. C.293. Fairchild, J. C., 1956, Development of a sue- 1962, A trial of the potential value of aqua-

pended sediment sampler for laboratory use lung diving to coastal physiography onunder wave action: U. S. Beach Erosion British coasts: Geog. Jour. , v. 128,Board Bull., v. 10, p. 41-60. p. 49-53.

294. Forster, G. R., 1954, Preliminary note on a 302. Lafond, E. C., Dietz, R. S., and Knauss, J.A.,

survey of Stoke Point Rocks, with self- 1950, A sonic device for underwater sedi-

contained diving apparatus: Jour. Marine ment survey: Jour. Sed. Petrology, v. 20,

Biol. Assoc. , p. 341. p. 107-110.

295. Hersey, J. B., 1952, Acoustic instrumentation 303. Saville, T., Jr., and Caldwell, J. M., 1952,

as a tool in oceanography: Oceanographic Accuracy of hydrographic surveying in and

12

near the surf zone: Coastal Engineering, 305. Watts, G. M. , 1953, )evelopment and field

Proc. Fluid Conf. , p. 31-47. Also, U. S. tests of a sampler 1or' suspended sediment

Beach Erosion Board Tech. Memo. 32, 1953. In wave action: U. S. Beach Erosion Board

Tech. Memo. 34.

304. Silverman, M., and Whaley, R. C., 1952,

Adaptation of the piston coring device to 306. Watts, G. M., 1954, laboratory and field tests

shallow water sampling: Jour. Sed. of sounding leads: U. S. Beach Erosion

Petrology, v. 22, p. 11-16. [ Board Tech. Memo. 54.

I.D.1.a. SEDIMENT CHARACTERISTICS, GENERAL

307. Baldwin, E. J., 1956, Distribution of rocks along the Swedish E. Coast: Geologiska

derived from a point source on a marine fIreningens i Stockholm mbrhandlingar,

beach: Univ. Southern Calif. , unpub. v. 75, p. 381-395.

sedimentation rept., 5 p.317. Einstein, H. A., 1951, Estimating quantities

308. Beach Erosion Board, 1942, Abrasion of beach of sediment supplied by streams to a coast:

sand: U. S. Beach Erosion Board Tech. Coastal Engineering, Proc. First Conf.,

Memo. 2. p. 137-139.

309. Beal, M. A., and Shepard, F. P., 1956, A use 318. Emery, K. 0., 1955, Grain size of marine

of roundness to determine depositional envi- beach gravels: Jour. Geology, v. 63,

ronments: Jour. Sed. Petrology, v, 26, p. p. 39-49.

49-60.

319. Emery, K. 0., 1955, Some characteristics of

310. Boos, M. F., 1940, Black beach sands of southern California sediments: Jour. Sed.

Guatemala, Central America: Geol. Soc. Petrology, v. 24, p. 50-59.

America Bull., v. 51, p. 1921.320. Folk, R. L., and Ward, W. C., 1957, Brazos

311. Bullard, F. M., 1942, Source of beach and river bar: a study in the significance of

river sands on Gulf Coast of Texas: Geol. grain size parameters: Jour. Sed. Petrol-

Soc. America Bull., v. 53, p. 1021-1044. ogy, v. 27, p. 3-26.

312. Bullard, F. M., and Mills, R. A., 1951, Beachsand at Los Ojos de Agua de San Telmo, 321. Foxworth, R. D., 1958, Heavy minerals of

Michofcan, Mexico: Jour. Sed. Petrology, sand from recent beaches of the Gulf Coast

v. 21, p. 195-199. of Mississippi and associated islands:

Univ. of Missouri, M.S. Thesis.

313. Clarke, J. W., 1958, Certain conditions of

concentration of heavy minerals in littoral 322. Friedman, G. M., 1962, On sorting, sorting

marine deposits: So. Carolina Div. of coefficients, and the lognormalty of the

Geology, State Development Board Bull., grain-size distribution of sandstone: Jour.

v. 2, p. 37-39. of Geology, v. 70, p. 737-753.

323. Glossop, R., and Skempton, A. W., 1945,314. Clements, T., and Dana, S. W., 1944, Particle-size in silts and sands: Jour.

Geologic significance of a coarse marine Inst. Civil Engineering, v. 25, p. 81-105.

sediment from near Santa Catalina Island,California: Jour. Geology, v. 52, p. 351-

354. 324. Gorsline, D. S., 1959, Sources and parametersof bottom sediments of the continental ter-

315. Darrow, W. E., 1942, The hydrolic aspects of race off the southeastern United States:

beach material supply, with specific refer- International Oceanographic Congress,

ence to the shoreline at Long Beach, Call- New York, p. 615.fornia: Am. Geophys. Union Trans., 23rd

Ann. Mtg., p. 644-649. 325. Griffiths, J. C., 1951, Size versus sorting in

some Caribbean sediments: Jour. of

316. Durietz, T., 1953, Composition of beach sand Geology, v. 59, p. 211-243.

13

326. Handin, J. W., 1951, The source, transpor- cal changes in sediments after deposition:tation and deposition of beach sediment in Jour. Bed. Petrology, v. 12, p. 111-117.southern California: U. S. Beach ErosionBoard Tech. Memo. 22. 340. Krumbein, W. C., 1943, Fundamental attri-

butes of sedimentary particles: Studies in327. Hantzschel, W., 1938, Tidal flat deposits Engineering, Proc. Second Hydr. Conf.,

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can, v. 202, p. 94-106.329. Hsu, K. J., 1960, '1exture and mineralogy of

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331. Inman, D. L., and Chamberlin, T. K., 1955,Particle size distribution in nearshore 344. McKee, E. D., 1959, Storm sediments on a

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333. Keller, G. H., 1953, Distribution of brown p. 64-67.

sand off the coast of California and BajaCalifornia: Univ. Southern Calif., unpub. 347. MacCarthy, G. R., 1933, The rounding ofmarine geology rept., 19 p. beach sands: Am. Jour. Sci., v. 25,

p. 205-224.334. Keller, W. D., 1945, Size distribution of sand

in some dunes, beaches and sandstones: Am. 348. Marshall, P., 1927, The wearing of beachAssoc. Petroleum Geologists, v. 29, p. gravels: New Zealand Inst. Trans., v. 58,215-221. p. 507-532.

335. Kindle, E. M., 1936, Dominant factors in the 349. Marshall, P., 1929, Beach gravels and sands:formation of firm and soft sand beaches: New Zealand Inst. Trans., v. 60, p. 324-Jour. Sed. Petrology, v. 6, p. 16-22. 365.

336. Koelzer, V. A., and Lara, J. M., 1958, 350. Martens, J. H. C., 1935, Beach sands betweenDensities and compaction rates of deposited Charleston, South Carolina, and Miami,sediment: Am. Soc. Civil Engineers Proc., Florida: Geol. Soc. America Bull., v. 46,Jour. Hydraulics Div., Paper 1603, p. 15. p. 1563-1596.

337. Kofoed, J. W. and Goraline, D. S., 1963, 351. Mason, C. C., and Folk, R. L., 1958, Dif-Sedimentary environments in Apalachicola ferrentiation of beach, dune, and aeolianBay and vicinity, Florida: Jour. Sed. flat environments by size analysis, MustangPetrology, v. 33, p. 205-223. Island, Texas: Jour. Sed. Petrology, v. 28,

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Faculty Science, Univ. Tokyo, v. 10,339. Krumbein, W. C., 1942, Physical and chemi- p. 65-108.

14

353. Pettijohn, F. J., 1931, Petrography of the Am. Assoc. Petroleum Geologists Bull.,beach sands of southern Lake Michigan: v. 22, p. 201-216.Jour. Geology, v. 39, p. 432-455.

367. Shepard, F. P., and Moore, D. G., 1954, Sedi-354. Pettijohn, F. J., 1932, A textural variation mentary environments differentiated by

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356. Pettijohn, F. J., and Ridge, J. D., 1933, Amineral variation series of beach sands from 369. Shepard, F. P., and Young, R., 1961, Dis-

Cedar Point, Ohio: Jour. Sed. Petrology, tinguishing between beach and dune sands:v. 3, p. 92-94. Jour. Sed. Petrology, v. 31, p. 196-214.

357. Powers, M. C., and Kinsman, B., 1953, Shellaccumulations in underwater sediments andtheir relation to the thickness of the tractionzone: Jour. Sed. Petrology, v. 23, p. 229- 370. Trask, P. D., 1952, Source of beach sand at234. Santa Barbara, California as indicated by

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Lake Michigan beaches: Coastal Engineering,Proc. Fourth Conf., p. 101-106. 371. Trask, P. D., 1959, Mechanical analysis of

beaches near San Francisco, California:359. Rabinovitz, D., 1958, Directional permeability Berkeley, Calif., Eng. Foundation, Wave

and dimensional orientation of beach sands: Research Lab., Series 14, Issue 21.Univ. Southern Calif., unpubl. sedimentationrept., 8 p. 372. Trask, P. D., and Johnson, J. W., 1955, Sand

variation at Point Reyes Beach, California:360. Raymond, P. E., and Statson, H. C., 1932, A U. S. Beach Erosion Board Tech. Memo. 65.

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sands of the coast of southwest Oregon:361. Raymond, P. E., and Stetson, H. C., 1932, A Oregon Dept. Geology and Mineral Industries

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374. Twenhofel, W. H., 1945, The rounding of sand362. Reed, R. D., 1930, Recent sands of California: grains: Jour. Sed. Petrology, v. 15, p. 59-

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363. Rogers, J. J. W., and Adams, H. C., Jr., 375. Twenhofel, W. H., 1946, Beach and river sands1959, The mineralogy and texture of beach of the coastal region of southwest Oregon withsands of Galveston Island, Texas: Jour. Sed. particular reference to black sands: Am.Petrology, v. 29, p. 207-211. Jour. Sdi., v. 244, p. 114-139.

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365. Schalk, M., 1946, A study of textural changes 377. Udden, J. A., 1914, Mechanical compositionin a beach by repeated sampling: Jour. Sed. of clastic seciments: Geol. Soc. AmericaPetrology, v. 16, p. 43-51. Bull., v. 25, p. 655-744.

366. Shepard, F. P., and MacDonald, G. A., 1938, 378. West, P. J., 1950, Preferred orientation ofSediments of Santa Monica Bay, California: beach pebbles: Univ. Southern Calif.,

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15

379. Wimberley, C. S. , 1955, Marine sediments Jolla, California: Jour. Sed. Petrology,north of Scripps Submarine Canyon, La v. 25, p. 24.

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380. Briggs, It. D., 1950, Mechanical analysis of a Univ., Mineral Indus. Expt. Sta. Bull. 56,gravel beach: Univ, Southern Calif., unpubl. p. 202-236.sedimentation rept., 8 p.

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directional permeability of some beach sand: Am. Assoc. of Petroleum Geologists,Univ. Southern Calif., unpubl. sedimentation p. 532-557.rept., 13 p. 393. Inman, D. L., 1952, Measures for describing

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16

1949, Report of Sub-Committee on sediment spheres: London Math. Soc. Proc. , v. 8,terminology: Am. Geophys. Union Trans., p. 609-620.v. 30, p. 134-140.

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428. Steinmetz, R., 1962, Sampling and size distri- 429. Waterways Experiment Station, 1950, Undis-bution of quartzose pebbles from three New turbed sand sampling below the water table:Jersey gravels: Jour. Geology, v. 70, W.E.S. Bull., Ser. 35.p. 56-73.

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430. American Society of Civil Engineers, North- 441. Einstein, H. A., 1950, Estimating quantities ofwestern Section, 1953, A joint meeting of sediment supplied by streams to a coast:international association for hydraulics Coastal Engineering, Proc. First Conf.,research and hydraulics division, American p. 137-139.Society of Civil Engineers: Minnesota Inter-national Hydraulics Convention Proc. 442. Einstein, H. A., 1950, The bed-load function

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18

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19

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I. D. 2. b. SEDIMENT TRANSPORT, TRANSPORT BY WAVES

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20

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crete spherical bottom sediment particles Geophys. Union Trans., v. 30, p. 517-525.due to shoaling waves: U. S. Beach ErosionBoard Tech. Memo. 104. 515. Jones, J. H., 1948, Wave action on beaches:

Univ. Calif., M. A. Thesis.

503. Eagleson, P. S., and Dean, It. G., 1959, Wave-induced motion of bottom sediment particles: 516. Kempin, E. T., 1954, Beach sand movements

Am. Soc. Civil Engineer Proc., Hydraulics at Cottesloe, West Australia: Royal Soc. W.

Div., Paper 2202. Aust. Jour., v. 37, p. 35-58.517. Kidson, C., and Carr, A. P., 1959, The move-

504. Einstein, H. A., 1948, Movement of beach ment of shingle over the sea bed closesands by water waves: Am. Geophys. Union inshore: Geog. Jour., v. 125, p. 380-389.Trans. , v. 29, p. 653-655.

518, King, C. A. M., 1951, Depth of disturbance of

505. Evans, 0. F., 1941, Wave action and the move- sand on sea beaches by waves: Jour. Sed.ment of beach sediments: Shore & Beach, Petrology, v. 21, p. 131-140.v. 9, p. 108-111.

519. Kinmont, A., 1962, The nearshore movement506. Fairchild, J. C., 1959, Suspended sediment of sand at Durban: U. S. Beach Erosion

sampling in laboratory wave action: U. S. Board Annual Bull., v. 16, p. 11-23.Beach Erosion Board Tech. Memo. 115.

507. Fisher, R. L., and Mill, R. , 1952, Sediment 520. Kuenen, Ph. H., 1959, Experimental abrasion3. Fluviatile action on sand: Am. Jour.

trap studies of sand movement inLa Jolla Sci., v. 257, p. 172-190.Bay: Geol. Soc. America Bull., v. 63,p. 1328. 521. Lafond, E. A., 1939, Sand movement near the

beach in relation to tides and waves: Sixth508. Fridman, R., 1957, Sur des amas periodiques Pacific Sci. Cong., v. 2, p. 795-799.

de material plus grossier a Ia surface decertaine plages sableuses: Comite d'Oceangr. 522. Lhermitte, P., 1960, Mouvements des mater-

et d'Etude des Cotes Bull., v. 5, p. 471- iaux de fond sous l'action de la houle:

488. Coastal Engineering, Proc. Seventh Conf.,v. 1, p. 211-261.

509. Grant, U. S., 1943, Waves as a sand trans-

porting agency: Am. Jour. Sci., v. 241, 523. Longinov, V. V., 1956, The possibility of a

p. 117-123. direct study of the action of the heavy sea

transporting suspended material, under510. Grant, U. S., and Shepard, F. P., 1939, natural conditions: Trudy Instituta

Shallow-water sediment-shifting processes Okeanologii Komissii, v. 1.along the southern California coast: SixthPacific Cong., Pacific Si. Assoc. Proc., 524. Longnov, V. V., 1958, An experiment to

v. 2, p. 801-805. ascertain the sediment transporting action

of the heavy sea with the aid of observation511, Inmen, D. L., 1949, Sediment trap studies of data on the transformation of waves in the

suspended material near the surf zone: shore zone: Trudy Instituta OkeanologiiScripps Inst. Oceanography Quarterley AN/SSSR, v. 28.Progress Report 2, p. 5-6.

525. Longinov, V. V., and Leontyev, 0. K., 1951,

512. Ippen, A. T., and Eagles, P., 1955, A study of The problem of the dynamics of the profile

sediment sorting by waves shoaling on a of a pebbly beach: Trudy Instituta Okeano-plane beach: U. S. Beach Erosion Board logli AN/USSR, v. ;.Tech. Memo. 63.

526. Manohar, M., 1955, Mechanics of bottom sedi-

513. Ishihara, T., and Sawaragi, T., 1960, On the ment movement due to wave action: U. S.

critical velocity and depth of water for sand Beach Erosion Board Tech. Memo. 75.movement and the rate of sand transport due

to wave action: Coastal Engineering, Proc. 527. Mason, M. A., 1942, Abrasion of beach sand:

Seventh Conf., p. 47-57. U. S. Beach Erosion Board Tech. Memo. 2.

21

528. O'Brien, M. P., and Morison, J. R., 1952, sedimentation rept., 21 p.The forces exerted by waves on objects:Am. Geophys. Union Trans., v. 33, p. 32-38. 534. Univ. Calif., Berkeley, Inst. Engineering

Research, 1951, Final report on sand trans-529. Palmer, H1. R., 1834, Observations on the portation by wave action: Series, no. 14,

motion of shingle beaches: Royal Soc. Issue, nc. 9.Philos. Trans., v. 124, p. 567-576.

535. Univ. Calif., Berkeley, Inst. Engineering530. Russell, 11. C. H., and Dyke, J. R. J., 1964, Research 1952, Summary report on studies

The direction of net sediment transport of sand transportation by wave action: U. S.caused by waves passing over a horizontal Beach Erosion Board Bull., v. 6, p. 1-17.bed: Inter. Assoc. Hydraulic ResearchCong., London. 536. Vincent, G., 1958, Contribution to the study of

sediment transport on a horizontal bed due531. Scott, T., 1954, Sand movement by waves: to wave action: Coastal Engineering, Proc.

U. S. Beach Erosion Board Tech. Memo. 48. Sixth Conf., p. 326-355.

532. Shepard, F. P., and Lafond, E. C., 1940, 537. Watts, G. M., 1954, Field investigation ofSand movements along the Scripps Institu- suspended sediment in the surf zone: Coast-tion pier: Am. Jour. Sci., v. 238, al Engineering, Proc. Fourth Conf., p. 181-p. 272-285. 199.

533. Terry, R. D., 1951, Suspended sediment 538. Wheeler, W. H., 1899, The action of waves andstudy of surf at Huntington Beach, Cali- tides on the movement of material on thefornia: Univ. Southern Calif., unpubl. sea coast: Geological Mag., v. 6, p. 70-71.

I. D. 2. c. SEDIMENT TRANSPORT, LITTORAL DRIFT

539. Abecasis, D. K., 1957, Littoral drift problems Inlet, N. J. : U. S. Beach Erosion Board,in Portugal with special reference to the unpub. rept.behavior of inlets on sandy beaches: CoastalEngineering, Proc. Sixth Conf., p. 406-438. 546. Halcrow, W., and others, 1961, Littoral drift

at Dungeness: Hydraulic Research, v. 16,540. Anonymous, 1961, The measurement of littoral p. 137.

drift: Hydraulics Research, p. 67-69.547. Iwagaki, Y., and Sawaragi, T., 1960, A new

541. Bajorunas, L., 1960, Littoral transport in the method for estimation of the rate of littoralGreat Lakes: Coastal Engineering, Proc. sand drift: Coastal Engineering, Proc.Seventh Conf., p. 326-339. Seventh Conf., p. 59-67.

542. Beach Erosion Board, 1948, Littoral drift study, 548. Johnson, J. W., 1953, Sand transport byLos Angeles, California: U. S. Beach Ero- littoral currents: Fifth Hydraulic Conf.sion Board Bull., v. 2, p. 1-4. Proc., Bull. 34, p. 89-109.

543. Bruun, P., 1950, Littoral drift on sea shores: 549. Johnson, J. W., 1957, The littoral driftIngeniren, no. 10, p. 219-228. problem at shoreline harbors: Am. Soc.

Civil Engineers Proc., Jour. Waterways544. Coultas, H. W., 1954, Observations on the and Harbors Div., v. 83, p. 12H-1 - 1211-37.

travel of shore material along a chalk fore-shore: Coastal Engineering, Proc. Fifth 550. Kidson, C., 1961, Movement of beach materialsConf., p. 381-382. on the east coast of England: East Midland

Ceog., v. 2, p. 3-16.545. Fairchild, J. C., (No date), Correlation of

littoral drift with incident waves along the 551. Krumbein, W. C., and Obsiek, L. E., 1950,U. S. Atlantic Coast at: Fire Island Inlet, Pulsation transport of sand by shore agents:Long Island, N. Y. ; Sandy Hook, N. J. ; Am. Geophys. Union Trans., v. 31, p. 216-Barnegat Inlet, N. J. ; and, Cold Spring 220.

22

562. Longinov, V. V., 1948, The dependence of the p. 555-565.direction of the waves, corresponding to themaximum speed of sediment transportation 558. Shay, E. A., and Johnson, J. W., 1951, Modelalong the shore, on the incline of the floor: studies on the movement of sand transportedIzvestiya AN/SSSR, Serlya Geogr. I. Geofis., by wave action along a straight beach:no. 4 Berkeley, Calif., Eng. Foundation, unpubl.

rept.553. McMaster, R. L., 1960, Mineralogy as an

indicator of beach sand movement along the 559. Svendsen, SV., 1950, Munch-Petersen'sRhode Island shore: Jour. Sed. Petrology, littoral drift formula: U. S. Beach Erosionv. 30, p. 404-413. Board, v. 4, p. 1-31.

554. Munch-Peterson, J., 1938, Littoral drift 560. Trask, P. D., 1955, Movement of sand aroundformula: U. S. Beach Erosion Board Bull., Southern California promontories: U. S.v. 4, p. 1-31. Beach Erosion Board Tech. Memo. 76.

555. Pincus, H. J., 1953, The motion of sediment 561. Valembois, J., 1960, ttude sur module dualong the south shore of Lake Erie: Coastal transport littoral conditions de similitude:Engineering, Proc. Fourth Conf., p. 119- Coastal Engineering, Proc. Seventh Conf.,146. p. 307-317.

556. Reinaida, H., 1960, Scale effects in models 562. Watts, G. M., 1953, A study of sand movementwith littoral sand-drift: Coastal Engineering at South Lake Worth Inlet, Florida: U. S.Proc. Seventh Conf., p. 318-325. Beach Erosion Board Tech. Memo. 42.

557. Saville, T.,Jr., 1950, Model study of sand 563. Wheeler, W. H., 1900, Sea-coast destructiontransport along an infinitely long, straight and littoral drift: Nature, v. 62, p. 400-beach: Am. Geophys. Union Trans., v. 31, 402.

I. D. 2. d. SEDIMENT TRANSPORT, OTHER METHODS OF TRANSPORT

564. Babcock, B.A., 1957, Analysis of wind blown v. 88, p. 112-113.sediment: Univ. Southern Calif., unpubl.sedimentation rept., 16 p. 570. Leypoldt, H., 1941, Mean sea-level and sand

movements: Science, v. 94, p. 607-609.565. Bell, H. S., 1942., Density currents as agents

for transporting sediments: Jour. Geology, 571. MacCarthy, G. R., and Huddle, J. W., 1938,v. 50, p. 512-547. Shape sorting of sand grains by wind action:

Am. Jour. Sci., v. 35, p. 64-73.566. Emery, K. 0., 1941, Transportation of

rock particles by sea mammals: Jour. 572. O'Brien, M. P., and Rindlaub, B. D., 1936,Sed. Petrology, v. 11, p. 92-93. The transportation of sand by wind: Civil

567. Emery, K. 0., 1945, Transportation of mar- Eng., v. 6, p. 325-326.ine beach sand by flotation: Jour. Sed.Petrology, v. 15, p. 84-87. 573. Off, T., 1963, Rhythmic linear sand bodies

caused by tidal currents: Am. Assoc.568. Evans, 0. F., 1939, Sorting and transportation Petroleum Geologists, v. 47, p. 324-340.

of material in the swash and backwash: Jour.

Sed. Petrology, v. 9, p. 28-31.574. Shepard, F.P., 1951, Transportation of sand

569. Lafond, E. C., 1938, Relationship between into deep water: Soc. Econ. Paleontologistsmean sea level and sand movements: Science, and Mineralogists, Spec. Publ. 2, p. 53-65.

I. D. 2. e. SEDIMENT TRANSPORT, TRACER STUDIES

575. Anonymous, 1961, Unidirectional channel flow: active tracers: Hydraulics Research, p. 25-measurement of sand transport with radio- 30.

23

576. Ariman, J. J. , Santema, P., and Svasek, J. N., Use of radioactive tracer for the study of1958, Movement of bottom sediment in sediment movement off Bombay Harbor:coastal waters by currents and waves: meas- Tech. Memo. 1, Central Water and Powerurements with the aid of radioactive tracers Research Station, Poona, India.in the Netherland: U. S. Beach ErosionBoard Tech. Memo. 105. 588. Hours, R., and Jaffry, P., 1959, Application

577. Arlman, J. J., and others, 1960, The use of des isotopes radioactifa a l'etude des mouve-

radioactive isotopes for the study of littoral ments des sediments et des galets dans lee

drift. Importance of accurate investigation cours d'eau et in mer: La Houille Blanche,

of coastal currents: Dock & Harbour, v.41, No. 3, p. 1-30.

p. 54-57. 589. Hours, R., Nesteroff, W. D., and Romanov-

578. Bruun, P., 1962, Tracing of material move- sky, V., 1955, Methode dtetude de Ilevolu-tion des plages par traceura radio-actifs:ment on seashores: Shore and Beach, v. 30, Tray en Rhdtes eaogr. i.p. 10-15. Trav. Centr. Rech. d'Etudes Oceanogr. 1.

579. Caldwell, J. M., 1960, Development and tests 590. Hydraulic Research Station, 1956, Radioactive

of a radioactive sediment density probe: tracers in the Thames estuary: Dept. Sci.

U. S. Beach Erosion Board Tech. Memo. Indus., London, Res. Paper 20.

121. 591. Hydraulic Research Station, 1958, Radioactive580. Crickmore, M. J., and Lean, G. H,, 1962, tracers for the study of sand movements:

The measurement of sand transport by means Hydraulics Research Station, Wallingford,of radioactive tracers: Royal Soc. London, Berksline, England.A, Proc., v. 266, p. 402-421.

592. Ijima, T., and others, The observation of581. Crickmore, J. J., and Lean, G. H., 1962, The sand movement by radioactive glass sand

measurement of sand transport by the time- at the Isohama on the Pacific Coast:integration method with radioactive tracers: Hydraulic Research v. 16, p. 278.Royal Soc. London, A, Proc., v. 270, p. 27-47. 593. Ingle, J. C., Jr., 1962, Tracing beach sand

movement by means of fluorescent sand:582. Davidson, J., 1958, Investigations of sand Shore and Beach, v. 30, p. 31-36.movement using radio-active sand: LundStudies in Geog. Ser. A. Phys. Geog. 12, 594. Inman, D. L., and Chamberlain, T. K, 1959,p. 107 -126. Tracing beach sand movement with irradi-

ated quartz: Jour. Geophys. Research,583. Forrest, G., 1957, Observations du chariage v. 64, p. 41-47.littoral au moyen d'elements radio actifs:Jour. de la Marine No. sp. Nouveautes 595. Inman, D. L., and Goldberg, E. D., 1955,Techniques maritimes. Neutron irradiated quartz as a tracer of

584. Germain, J., Forrest, G., and Jaffry, P., sand movement: Geol. Soc. America Bull.,1957, Utilisation des traceurs radloactifs v. 66, p. 611-613.pour i'etude des movements de sedimentsmarins: Coastal Engineering, Proc. Sixth 596. Inose, S., and others, 1955, The field experi-Conf., p. 314-325. ment of littoral drift using radioactive glass

sand: International Conference on the585. Gibert, A., and others, 1958, Tracing sand Peaceful Uses of Atomic Energy, Conf.

movement under sea water with Ag 110: 8/P/1053, Japan.Second U. N. Conference on the PeacefulUses of Atomic Energy, A/Conf. 15/P/1820, 597. Inose, S., ad Shiraishi, N., 1956, The mea-Lisbon, Portugal. suremmnt ot littoral drift by radio isotopes:

Dock and Harbour, v. 36, p. 284-288.586. Goldberg, E. D., and Inman, D. L., 1955,

Neutron-irradiated quartz as a tracer of 598. Jaffry, P., and Heusel, M., 1960, Emploi desand movements: Geol. Soc. America traceurs radioactlfs pour l'etude du trais-Bull., v. 66, p. 611-612. port solide dana lee cours d'eau: Assoc.

Internationale D'Hydrologie Scientifique,587. Hiranandani, M. G., and Cole, C. V., 1960, Pub. no. 52, p. 559-567.

24

599. Jaffry, P., and Hours, R., 1959, Ltetude du active tracer techniques for sand and silttransport littoral par Ia methode des traceurs movements under water: Inter. Jour.radjoactifs: Cahiers Oceanographiques du Applied Radiation and Isotopes, v. 1, P. 24-C.O.E.C., v. 9, p. 7. 32.

600. Jolliffe, I. P., 1961, The use of tracers to 611. Reid, W. J., 1958, Coastal experiments withstudy beach movements; and the measure- radioactive tracers: Dock and Harbor, v.ment of littoral drift L)y a fluorescent 39, p. 84-8.technique: Hydraulics Research Station,D.S.I.R., Wallingford, Berkshire, England. 612. Reid, W. J., and Jolliffe, I. P., 1961, A note

on coastal experiments with fluorescent601. Kidson, C., Carr, A. P., and Smith, D. B., tracers: Bristol Naturalists' Soc. Proc.,

1958, Further experiments using radioactive v. 30, p. 273-274.methods to detect the movement of shingleover the sea bed and alongshore: Geog. 613. Reid, W. J., and Jolliffe, I. P. , 1961, CoastalJour. , v. 124, p. 210-218. experiments with fluorescent tracers: Mea-

suring quantity and direction of littoral drift:602. Kidson, C., and Carr, A. P. , 1962, Marking Dock and Harbour, v. 41, 1). 341-345.

beach materials for tracing experiments:Am. Soc. Civil Engineers Proc., Jour. of 614. Russell, R. C. H.. 196C, The use of fluores-the Hydro. Div., v. 88, p. 43-61. cent tracers for the measurement of littoral

drift: Coastal Engineering, Proc. Seventh603. Kidson, C., and others, 1956, Drift experi- drift: p. E ie-444.

ments with pebbles: Nature, v. 178, p. 257. Conf.. p. 414-444.

604. Krone, R. B., Einstein, H. A., Kaufman, 615. Smith, D. B., 1957, Radioactive methods forW. J., and Snyder, N. W. , 1957, Silt trans- labeling and tracing sand and pebbles inport studies utilizing radioisotopes: Berke- investigations of littoral drift: UNESCO/NS/ley, Calif., Eng. Foundation, First Ann. RIC/63. London, PergamOn Press, 12 p.Prog. Rept., 118 p.

616. Steers, J. A., and Smith, D. B., 195(.605. Krone, R. B., Einstein, H. A., Kaufman, Detection of movement of pebbles on the sea

W. J., and Orlob, G. T., 1959, Silt trans- floor by radioactive methods: Geog. Jour.port studies utilizing radioisotopes: Berke- v. 122, p. 343-345.ley, Calif., Eng. Foundation, Second Ann.Prog. Rept. 123 p. 617. Svasek. J. N., and Engel, H., 1960, Use of a

radio-active tracer for the measurement of606. Lean, G. H., and Crickmore, M. J., Methods sediment transport in the Netherlands:

for measuring sand transport using radio- Coastal Engineering, Proc. Seventh Conf.,active tracers: Hydraulics Research Station, p. 445-454.Wallingford, Berkshire, England.

607. Medvedev, V. S., and Ajbulatov, N. A., 1956, 618. Wright, F. F., 1962, The development andThe use of marked sand in the study of trans- application of a fluorescent markingportation of marine sediments: Izvestiya technique for tracing sand movement onAN/SSSR, Seriya Geogr., no. 4. beaches: Tech. Rept. No. 2, Proj. NR

388-057, Contract Nonr 266(68), Office of608. Medvedev, V. S., and Ajbulatov, N. A., 1958, Naval Research, Geography Branch,

The study of the dynamics of a sandy low- Washington, D. C.lying coast with the aid of luminiphores and /or cableways: Trudy Instituta Okeanographii 619. Yasso, W. E., 1962, Fluorescent coatings onAN/SSSR, v. 10. coarse sediments: an integrated system:

Office of Naval Research, Geography609. Mehmel, M., 1938, Application of x-ray Branch, Tech. Rept. 1.

methods to the investigation of recent sedi-ments: Recent Marine Sediment, A Sympo- 620. Zenkovitch, V. P., 1958, Emploi de lumino-sium, Am. Assoc. Petroleum Geologists, phores pour l'etude du mouvement desp. 616-630. alluvions sablonneuses: Moscow, Bu.

d'Information du Comite Central dvOceano-610. Putman, J. L., and Smith, D. B., 1956, Radio- graphic et d' Etude des Cotes, v. 15.

25

621. Zenkovitch, V. P., 1960, Fluorescent sub- 622. Zenkovitch, V. P., 1962, Application of lumi-

stances as tracers for studying the move- niscent substances for sand-drift investi-

ments of sand on the sea bed: Dock & gations in the near-shore zones of the sea:Harbour, v. 40, p. 280-283. De Ingenleur, v. 13, Bouw- en Waterbouw-

kunde, p. 81-89.

II. A. BEACH AND NEARSHORE PROCESSES, GENERAL WAVE THEORY

623. Alien, J., and Gibson, D. H., 1959, Experi- 635. Bretschneider, C. L., 1951, Revised wave

ments on the displacement of water by waves forecasting relationships: Coastal Engineer-

of various heights and frequencies: Inst. ing, Proc. Second Conf., p. 1-5.Civil Engineers, Proc., v. 13, p. 363-386.

636. Bretschneider, C. L., 1952, The generation624. Arthur, R. S., 1949, Variability in direction and decay of wind waves in deep water: Am.

of wave travel: New York Acad. Sci. Ann., Geophys. Union Trans., v. 33, p. 381-389.v. 51, p. 511-522.

637. Bretschneider, C. L., 1954, Generation of

625. Arthur, R. S., 1950, Wave forecasting and wind waves over a shallow bottom: U. S.

hindcasting: Coastal Engineering, Proc. Beach Erosion Board Tech. Memo. 51.

First Con., p. 82-87.638. Bretachneider, C. L., 1956, Wave forecasting

626. Bagnold, R. A., 1939, Interim Report on relationships for the Gulf of Mexico: U. S.

wave pressure research: Jour. Inst. Civil Beach Erosion Board Tech. Memo. 84.

Engineers, v. 12, p. 202-226.639. Bretachneider, C. L., 1959, Wave variability

627. Barber, N. F., and Ursell, F., 1948, and wave spectra for wind-generated gravity

Generation and propagation of ocean waves waves: U. S. Beach Erosion Board Tech.and swell: Royal Soc. London Philos. Memo. 118.Trans., A, v. 240, p. 527-560.

640. Bretschneider, C. L., and Gaul, R. C., 1956,

628. Bascom, W. N., 1959, Ocean waves: Scientific Wave statistics for the Gulf of Mexico offAmerican, 4. 201, p. 75-84. Apalachicola, Florida: U. S. BeachErosion

Board Tech. Memo. 88.

629. Bates, C. C., 1949, Utilization of wave fore-

casting in the invasion of Normandy, Burma,and Japan: New York Acad. Sci. Ann., 641. Bretschnelder, C. L., and Gaul, R, C., 1956,

v. 51, p. 545-569. Wave statistics for the Gulf of Mexico offBrownsville, Texas: U. S. Beach Erosion

630. Beach Erosion Board, 1942, A summary of Board Tech. Memo. 85.

the theory of oscillatory waves: U. S.Beach Erosion Board Tech. Rept. 2. 642. Bretschneider, C. L., and Gaul, R. C., 1956,

Wave statistics for the Gulf of Mexico off

631. Borgman, L. E., and Chappelear, J. E., 1957, Burrwood, Louisiana: U. S. Beach Erosion

The use of the Stokes-Struik approximation Board Tech. Memo. 87.for waves of finite height: Coastal Engi-neering, Proc. Sixth Conf., p. 252-280. 643. Bretachneider, C. L., and Gaul, R. C., 1956,

Wave statistics for the Gulf of Mexico off

632. Boucher, J. W., 1947, Oscillatory waves: Caplen, Texas. U. S. Beach Erosion Board

Univ. Calif., M. S. Thesis. Tech. Memo. 86.

633. Bowden, K. F., 1948, Some observations of 644. Bretschneider, C. L., and Gaul, R. C., 1956,

waves and other fluctuations in a tidal Wave statistics for the Gulf of Mexico off

current: Royal Soc. London Proc., v. 192, Tampa Bay, Florida. U. S. Beach Erosion

p. 403-425. Board Tech. Memo. 89.

634. Bretschneider, C. L., 1951, Revised wave- 645. Burt, W. V., and Sauer, J. F., Jr., 1948,forecasting curves and procedure: Berkeley, Hindasting technique provides statistical

Calif., Eng. Foundation Rept. p. 155-47. wave data: Civil Eng., v. 18, p. 47-49.

26

646. Cartwright, D. E., 1958, Estimating the mean calculation: Coastal Engineering, Proc.energy of sea waves from highest waves in a Sixth Conf., p. 202-208.record: Royal Soc. London Proc., v. 247,p. 22-48. 659. Dobroklonskiy, S. B., 1947, Turbulent viscosity

in the upper layer of the sea and swell: Dok.647. Champion, D. L., 1946, Wind and sea at Akad. Nauk., SSSR., Nova., v. 58.

coastal stations and the effects of the anglebetween wind and shore: Jour. Royal 660. Donn, W. L., 1949, Studies of waves and swellMeteorol. Soc., v. 72, p. 221-229. in western North Atlantic: Am. Geophys.

Union Trans. , v. 30, p. 507-516.648. Charney, J. G., 1955, The generation of ocean

currents by wind: Jour. Mrflne Research, 661. Draper, L., 1958, Experimental studies ofv. 14, p. 477-498. water waves: Nottingham University, Eng-

land, M. S. Thesis.649. Charnock, H., 1958, A note on empirical wind-

wave formulae: Geol. Soc. London Jour., 662. Eagleson, P. S., 1959, The damping of oscil-v. 84, p. 443-447. latory waves by laminar boundary layers:

U. S. Beach Erosion Board Tech, Memo. 17.650. Crease, J., 1958, The propagation of long

waves into a semi-infinite channel in a 663. Eckart, C. H., 1953, The generation of windrotating system: Jour. Fluid Mech., v. 4, waves on a water surface: Scripps Inst.p. 306-320. Oceanog., Cont. No. 648, p. 1485-1494.

651. Darbyshire, J., 1952, The generation of wavesby wind: Royal Soc. London, A, Proc.,v. 215, p. 299-328. 664. Eckart, C. H., 1953, The progration of gravity

waves from deep to shallow water: Scripps

652. Derbyshire, J., 1956, The distribution of wave Inst. Oceanog. Cont. No. 621, p. 165-173.heights; a statistical method based on obser-vation: Dock and Harbour, v. 37, 665. Ehring, H., 1950, Characteristics of measured

wave action on the basis of the frequency

653. Darbyshire, J., 1961, Prediction of wave distribution of wave length, wave height, and

characteristics over the North Atlantic: steepness: U. S. Beach Erosion Board Bull.,

Jour. Inst. Navig., v. 14, p. 339-347 v. 4, p. 30-35.

654. Deacon, G. E. R., 1949, Waves and swell: 666. Emery, K. 0., 1958, Wave patterns off south-Jour. Royal Meteorol. Soc., v. 75, ern California: Jour. of Marine Research,p. 227-238. v. 17, p. 133-140.

6,5. Deacon, G. E. R., 1950, Energy exchange be- 667. Emery, K. 0., 1963, An aerial study of Hawa-tween the oceans and the atmosphere: ian wave patterns: Pacific Sci., v. 17,Nature, v. 165, p. 173-174. p. 255-260.

656. Dearduff, R. F., 1953, A comparison of ob- 668. Flinsch, H. V. N., 1946, An experimental in-

served and hindcast wave characteristics off vestigation of wind-generated surface waves:

southern New England: U. S. Beach Erosion Univ. Minnesota, Ph.D. Dissertation.Board Bull., v. 7, p. 4-14. 669. Folsom, R. G., 1947, Sub-surface pressures

657. Dearduff, R. F., 1955, A comparison of deep due to oscillatory waves: Am. Geophys.

water wave forecasts by the Pierson-Neu- Union Trans., v. 28, p. 875-881.

mann, the Derbyshire, and the Sverdrup- 6Munk-Bretschneider methods with recorded 70. Fuchs, R. A., Wegel, R. L., and others,waves for Point Arguello, California for 1952, Wave theory, useful graphs and tables26-29 October 1950: U. S. Beach Erosion of functions: Manual of Amphibious Oceano-Board Bull., v. 9, p. 5-13. graphy, Section II, Washington, D. C.

658. Diephuis, J. 0. H. R., and Gerriize, J. G., 671. Groen, P., and Dorrestein, R., 1950, Ocean

1938, Determination of the wave height in swell: Its decay and period increase:

nature from model tests supplemented by Nature, v. 165, p. 445-447.

27

672. Haurwitz, B., 1943, The effect of a gradual 685. Kaplan, K., 1955, Generalized laboratory studywind change on the stability of waves: New of Tsunami run-up: U. S. Beach ErosionYork Acad. Sci. Ann., v. 44, p. 69-80. Board Tech. Memo. 60.

673. Haurwitz, B., 1948, The effect of ocean cur- 686. Lawford, A. L., and Veley, V. F. C., 1956,rents on internal waves: Jour. Marine Change in the relationship between wind andResearch, v. 7, p. 217-228. surface water movement at higher wind

speeds: Am. Geophys. Union Trans., v. 37,674. Haurwitz, B., 1950, Internal waves of tidal p. 691-693.

character: Am. Geophys. Union Trans.,v. 31, p. 47-52. 687. Lesbordes, R., 1950, Energy in swell and chop

on the sea: Rev. Gen. Hyd., v. 16, p. 3-18.675. Hela, 1., 1948, On the stress of the wind on

the water surface: Geophysica, v. 3, 688. Longuet-Higgins, M. S., 1952, Statistical dis-p. 146-161. tribution of the heights of sea waves: Jour.

Marine Research, v. 11, p. 245-266.676. Inoue, E., 1950, The application of turbulence

theory to oceanography: Jour. Meteorol. 689. Longuet-Higgins, M. S., 1953, Mass transportSoc., Japan, v. 28, p. 420-424. in water waves: Royal Soc. London, Philos.

Trans., A, v. 245, p. 535-581.677. Isaacs, J. D., and Saville, T., Jr. , 1949,

The comparison of forecast and recorded 690. Longuet-Higgins, M. S., 1953, On the decreasewaves on the Pacific coast: New York Acad. of velocity with depth in an irrotationalSci. Ann., v. 51, p. 343-72. water wave: Cambridge Phil. Soc. Proc.,

v. 49, p. 552-560.678. Isaacs, J. D., Schorr, S., and Chinn, A. C.,

1947, Records of waves on the Pacific 691. Longuet-Higgins, M. S., 1958, The mechanicsCoast of California: Berkeley, Calif., Eng. of the boundary-layer near the bottom in aFoundation, Rept. HE-116-263. progressive wave: Coastal Engineering,

Proc. Sixth Conf., p. 184-193.679. James, R. W., 1954, Wave forecast based on

the energy spactra method: Am. Geophys. 692. Longuet-Higgins, M. S., 1960, Mass transportUnion Trans., v. 35, p. 153-160. in the boundary layer at a free oscillating

surface: Jour. Fluid Mechanics, v. 8,680. Jeffreys, H., 1926, Formation of water waves p. 293-306.

by wind: Royal Soc. London, A, Proc.,v. 110, p. 241-246. 693. Longuet-Higgins, M. S., and Stewart, R. W.,

1962, Radiation stress and mass transport681. Johnson, J. W., 1948, The characteristics of in gravity waves with application to surf beats:

wind waves on lakes and protected bays: Jour. of Fluid Mechanics, v. 13, p.481-504.Am. Geophys. Union Trans., v. 29, p. 671-681. 694. Lowell, S. C., 1949, The propagation of waves

in shallow water: Comm. Appl. Math., v. 2,682. Johnson, J.W., 1950, Relationships beteeen p. 275-291.

wind and waves, Abbotts Lagoon, California:Am. Geophys. Union Trans., v. 31, p. 386- 695. McDonald, W. F., 1932, Notes on the exchange392. of energy between ocean and atmosphere: Am.

Geophys. Union Trans., v. 13, p. 131-136.

683. Johnson, J. W., 1953, Summary of wave datafor San Francisco Bay and vicinity: Berkeley, 696. MacDonald, G. A., Shepard, F. P., and Cox,D. C., 1947, The tsunamis of April 1, 1946,Calif., Inst. Engineering Research Ser., in the Hawaiian Islands: Pacific Sci., v. 1,

no. 3. p. 21-37.

684. Johnson, J. W., 1960, The effect of wind and 697. Makkaveav, V. M., 1951, Reckoning with thewave action on the mixing and dispersion of wind factor and the roughness of the floor inwastes: "Waste Disposal in the Marine connection with the dynimics of waves andEnvironment," Pergamon Press, p. 328- currents: Trudy Gos. Gidrolog. Instituta,343. no. 38 (82).

28

698. Mandelbaum, H., 1956, Evidence for a critical 712. Munk, W. H., Tucker, M. J.'and Snodgrass, F.,

wind velocity for air-sea boundary processes: 1957, Remarks on the ocean wave spectrum:

Am. Geophys. Union Trans., v. 37, p. 685- National Academy of Sciences, National Re-

690. search Council, Pub. 515.

699. Mason, M. A., 1941, A study of progressive 713. National Academy of Sciences, 1963, Waveoscillatory waves in water: U. S. Beach spectra: Proceedings of a conference, spon-Erosion Board Tech. Rept. 1. sored by the U. S. Naval Oceanographic

Office, Easton, Maryland, Prentice-Hall,700. Mewes, W., 1950, Wave dimensions in the Inc.

North and Baltic seas: U. S. Beach ErosionBoard Bull., v. 4, p. 1-30. 714. Neumann, G., 1949, The generation of water

waves by wind: Deutsch. Hydr. Zs., v. 2,701. Michell, J. H., 1893, On the highest waves in p. 187-199.

water: Philosophical Magazine, v. 36, no. 5.715. Neumann, G., 1952, The generation of water

702. Mitchim, C. F., 1940, Oscillatory waves in waves by wind: U. S. Beach Erosion Boarddeep water: Mil. Engineer, v. 32, p. 107- Bull. , v. 6, p. 26-33.109.

716. Neumann, G., 1953, On ocean wave spectra

703. Morison, J. R., 1951, The effect of wave-steep- and a new method of forecasting wind-gene-ness on wave velocity: Am. Geophys. Union rated sea: U. S. Beach Erosion Board Tech.Trans., v. 32, p. 201-206. Memo. 43.

704. Munk, W. H., 1944, Proposed uniform proce- 717. O'Brien, M. P., and Mason, M. A., 1941, Adure for observing waves and interpreting summary of the theory of oscillatory waves:instrument records: Scripps Inst. Oceanog. U. S. Beach Erosion Board Tech. Rept. 2.Wave Rept. 26.

718. Peroud, P., 1959, The propagation of tidal

705. Munk, W. H., 1947, A critical wind speed for waves into channels of gradually varyingair-sea boundary processes: Jour. Marine cross-section: U. S. Beach Erosion BoardResearch, v. 6, p. 203-218. Tech. Memo. 112.

706. Munk, W. H., 1947, Increase in the period of 719. Pierson, W. J., Jr., Neumann, G., and James,waves traveling over large distances, with R. W., 1955, Observing and forecastingapplications to tsunamis, swell, and seismic ocean waves: U. S. Navy Hydrog. Off. Pub.,surface waves: Am. Geophys. Union Trans., 603,284.v. 28, p. 189-217.

720. Putz, R. R., 1950, Wave height variability;707. Munk. W. H., 1947, Tracking storms by fore- prediction of the distribution function:

runners of swell: Jour, Meteorology, v. 4, Berkeley, Calif. Eng. Foundation Tech.p. 45-57. Rept. HE-116-318.

708. Munk, W. H., 1949, Surf beats: Am. Geophys. 721. Putz, R. R., 1952, Statistical distributions forUnion Trans., v. 30, p. 849-854. ocean waves: Am. Geophys. Union Trans.,

v. 33, p. 685-692.709. Munk, W. H., 1950, Origin and generation of

waves: Coastal Engineering, Proc. First 722. Putz, R. R., 1953, Statistical analysis of waveConf., p. 1-4. records: Coastal Engineering, Proc. Fourth

Conf., p. 13-23.

710. Munk, W. H., and Arthur, R. P., 1951, Fore-casting ocean waves: Compendium of 723. Roll, H. U., 1952, On the expansion of the seaMeteorology, American Meteorol. Soc., waves due to the effect of wind (based on thep. 1082-1089. measurements in shallow tidal waters): U.S.

Beach Erosion Board Bull., v. 6, p. 22-25.

711. Munk, W. H., and Sverdrup, H. U., 1946,Empirical and theoretical relation between 724. Roll, H. U., 1956, Wind distribution over sea

wind, sea, and swell: Am. Geophys. Union waves: U. S. Beach Erosion Board Bull.,Trans., v. 27, p. 823-827. v. 10, p. 1-10.

29

725. Rossby, C. G., 1947, Notes on the distribution 738. Sverdrup, H. U., and Munk, W. H., 1947,of energy and frequency in surface waves: Wind, sea and swell: Theory of relationsJour. Marine Research, v, 6, p. 93-103. for forecasting: U. S. Hydrog. Office,

U. S. Navy, Rept. 1, H. 0. Pub. 601.726. Savage, R. P., 1954, A statistical study of the

effect of wave steepness on wave velocity: 739. Tucker, M. J., 1950, Surf beats; sea wavesU. S. Beach Erosion Board Bull., v. 8, of 1 to 5 min. period: Royal Soc. L<mdonp. 1-10. Proc. A, v. 202, p. 565-573.

727. Saville, T., Jr., 1955, A simplified method of 740. Tucker, M. J., 1959, The study of sea waves:determining durations and frequencies of The New Scientist, v. 6. p. 275-277.waves greater or less than a specified height:U. S. Beach Erosion Board Bull., v. 9, 741. Ufford, C. W., 1947, Internal waves in thep. 1-4. ocean: Am. Geophys. Union Trans., v. 28,

p. 79-86.728. Scripps Institute of Oceanography, 1947, A

statistical study of wave conditions at five 742. Ufford, C. W., 1947, Internal waves measuredopen sea localities along the California coast: at three stations: Am. Geophys. UnionScripps Inst. Oceanog. Wave Report 510, Trans., v. 28, p. 87-95.68 p., unpub.

743. Ufford, C. W., 1947, The theory of internal729. Sibul, 0. J., 1956, Water surface roughness waves: Am. Geophys. Union Trans., v. 28,

and wind shear stress in a laboratory wind- p. 96-101.wave channel: U.S. Beach Erosion BoardTech. Memo. 74. 744. Unna, P.J. H., 1949, Speed of wave energy.

Nature, v. 164, p. 887-888.730. Stanton, T., Marshall, D., and Houghton, R.,

1932, The growth of waves on water due to 745. U. S. Hydrographic Office, 1943, Wind, wavesaction of the wind: Royal Soc. London, A, and swell: principles in forecasting: U. S.Proc., v. 137, p. 283-293. Hydrog. Office, U. S. Navy, H. 0. Misc.

11, 275 p.731. Starr, V. P., 1948, Estimates of water trans-

port produced by wave action: Jour. Marine 746. U. S. Navy, 1943-1950, Atlas of sea and swellResearch, v. 7. charts: Hydro. Off. Misc. Pub. 10712-A

through D.732. Stoker, J. J., Jr., 1948, Waves over beaches

of small slope, under docks, (etc.): Comm. 747. Ward, H. A., 1952, A method of separatingApp. Math., v. 1, p. 101-108. multiple systems of ocean waves for detailed

study of directions and other properties:733. Stoker, J. J., 1957, Water waves: Interscience U. S. Beach Erosion Board Bull., v. 6,

Publications Inc., New York. p. 1-13.

734. Stokes, G. G., 1847, On the theory of oscilla- 748. Wiegel, R. L., 1948, Diagrams and tables oftory waves: Cambridge Philos. Soc. Trans. relationships commonly used in investi-v. 8, p. 441-455. gations of surface waves: U. S. Beach

Erosion Board Bull., Spec. Issue, No. 1735. Suquet, F., and Wallet, A., 1953, Basic ex-

perimental wave research: Minnesota 749. Wiegel, R. L., 1949, An analysis of data fromInternat. Hydrol. Convention Proc., wave recorders on the Pacific Coast of thep. 173-191. United States: Am. Geophys. Union Trans.,

v. 30, p. 700-704.736. Sverdrup, H. U., 1947, Period increase of

ocean swell: Am. Geophys. Union Trans., 750. Wiegel, R. L., 1960, Wind, waves, and swell:v. 28, p. 407-417. Coastal Engineering, Proc. Seventh Conf.,

p. 1-40.737. Sverdrup, H. U., and Munk, W. H., 1946,

Empirical and theoretical relations between 751. Wiegel, R. L., and Johnson, J. W., 1950,wind, sea and swell: Am. Geophys. Union Elements of wave theory: Coastal Engineer-Trans., v. 27, p. 823-827. ing, Proc. First Conf., p. 5-12.

30

752. Wiegel, R. L., and Kimberly, H. L., 1950, U. S. Beach Erosion Board Tech. Memo. 73.Southern swell observed at Oceanside,California: Am. Geophys. Union Trans., 755. Yoshida, K., 1950, On certain approximatev. 31, p. 717-722. solutions of wave equations and their appli-

cations to some long-wave problems:753. Williams, A. J., and Cartwright, D. E., 1957, Geophys. Notes, v. 3, 4 p.

A note on the spectra of wind waves: Am.Geophys. Union Trans., v. 38, p. 864-866. 756. Yoshida, K., 1950, On water movements

associated with waves: Geophys. Notes,754. Wilson, B. W., 1956, Graphical approach to v. 3, 5 p.

the forecasting of waves in moving fetches:

U.B. 1. SHOALING AND BREAKING WAVES, GENERAL

757. Beach Erosion Board, 1949, Forecasting breaking against the edges of a submergedbreakers and surf on a straight beach of shelf: Jour. Geology, v. 58, p. 281-282.infinite length: U. S. Beach Erosion BoardBull., v. 3, p. 23-32. 767. Friedrichs, K. 0., 1948, Water waves on a

shallow sloping beach: Comm. Appl. Math.,758. Bigelow, H. B., and Edmondson, W. T., 1947, v. 1, p. 109-134.

Wind waves at sea, breakers and surf: U. S.Navy Hydro. Off. Pub. 602, 177 p. 768. Grant, U. S., and Shepard, F. P., 1946,

Effect of type of waves breaking on shore759. Bretschneider, C. L., 1954, Field investiga- processes: Geol. Soc. America Bull., v.

tion of wave energy loss of shallow water 57, p. 1252.ocean waves: U. S. Beach Erosion BoardTech. Memo. 46. 769. Granthem, K. N., 1953, A model study of wave

run-up on sloping structures: Berkeley,760. Bretschneider, C. L., and Le Mehaute, B., Calif., Eng. Foundation, Series 3.

1962, Modification of wave spectra on the

continental shelf and in the surf zone: 770. Groen, P., and Weenink, M. P. H., 1950,National Engineering Science Company. Two diagrams for finding breaker charact-

eristics along a straight coast: Am.761. Bretschneider, C. L. , and Reid, R. 0., 1954, Geophys. Union Trans., v. 31, p. 398-400.

Modification of wave height due to bottomfriction, percolation and refraction: U. S. 771. Hall, J.A., 1962, Surf climate at three selectedBeach Erosion Board Tech. Memo. 45. U. S. coastal locales - Atlantic City, N. J.;

Hillsboro Inlet, Florida; Yaquina Bay, Ore-762. Burnside, W., 1915, On the modification of a gon: U. S. Beach Erosion Board Bull.,

train of waves as it advances into shallow v. 16, p. 25-35.water: Math. Soc. London, Proc., v. 14,p. 131. 772. Hall, J. V., Jr., and Watts, G. M., 1953,

Laboratory investigation of the vertical rise

763. Carr, J. H., 1951, Forces exerted by waves of solitary waves on impermeable slopes:on a sloping board: Am. Geophys. Union U. S. Beach Erosion Board Tech. Memo. 33.Trans., v. 32, p. 777-779.

773. Hamilton, W. S., 1950, Forces exerted by764. Diephuis, J. G. H. R., 1958, Scale effects waves on a sloping board: Am. Geophys.

involving the breaking of waves: Coastal Union Trans., v. 31, p. 849-855.Engineering, Proc. Sixth Conf., p. 194-201. 774. Hidaka, K., 1947, On the dynamics of roll

waves: Geophys. Mag., Tokyo, v. 15,

765. Eagleson, P. S., 1956, Properties of shoaling p. 1-4.waves by theory and experiment: Am. 775. Housley, J. G., and Taylor, D. C., 1957,Geophys. Union Trans., v. 37, p. 565. Application of the solitary wave. Theory of

shoaling oscillatory waves: Am. Geophys.766. Evans, 0. F., 1950, On the action of waves Union Trans., v. 38, p. 56-61.

31

776. Inman, D. L., and Nasu, N., 1956, Orbital 789. Kondratyev, N. Y., 1951, Losses of wavevelocity associated with wave action near energy in shallow waters: Trudy Goo. Gid-the breaker zone: U. S. Beach Erosion rolog. Instituta, no. 28.Board Tech. Memo. 79.

790. Kusnezov, P. A., 1944, Methods of approxt-777. Ippen, A. T., and Kulin, G., 1954, The shoal- mate calculation of the measurements of

ing and breaking of the solitary wave: waves in proximity of the shore: Leningrad.Coastal Engineering, Proc. Fifth Conf.,p. 27-47. 791. Longlnov, V. V., 1954, The distribution of

velocities near the bottom in the area of the778. Isaacson, E., 1950, Water waves over a slop- shore: Trudy Institute Okeanologii AN/SSSR,

ing bottom: Comm. Appl. Math., v. 3, v. 10.p. 11-31.

792. Longinov, V. V., 1957, Some observations of779. Iverson, H. W., 1952, Laboratory study of the deformation of waves in the shore area

breakers: Natl. Bureau Stand. Circ. 521. under natural conditions: Trudy InstituteOkeanologii AN/SSSR, v. 21.

780. Iverson, H. W., 1952, Waves and breakers in 7 Longlnov, V. V. , 1958, Data gathered whileshoaling water: Coastal Engineering, Proc. observing the horizontal pressure of wavesThird Conf., p. 1-12. in the bottom layer of the shore zone under

781. Iverson, H. W., (No date), Discussion of re- natural conditions: Trudy Institut, Okeano-

suits from studies of wave transformation 10111 AN/BaSE, v. 28.

in shoaling water: Berkeley, Calif., Eng. 794. Mason, M. A., 1950, The transformation ofFoundation Tech. Rept. 3, no. 331. waves in shallow water: Coastal Engineering,

782. Iverson, H. W., Crooke, R. C., Larocco, M. J. Proc. First Conf., p. 22-32.

and Wiegel, R. L., 1950, Beach slope effect 7 Morison, J. R., and Crooks, R. C., 1953,on breakers and surf forecasting: Berkeley, The mechanics of deep water, shallow water,Calif., Eng. Foundation, Tech, Rept. 155- and breaking waves: U. S. Beach Erosion38. Board Tech. Memo. 40.

783. Jeffreys, H., 1944, Note on the offshore barproblem and reflection from a bar: Great 796. M suk, W. H., 1945, Supplement to breakersBrit. Ministry of Supply, Wave Rept. 3. and surf, principles in forecasting: Scrippe

Inst. Oceanog., unpub. wave rept., no. 49.

784. John, F., 1948, Waves in the presence of aninclined barrier: Comm. Appl. Math., 797. Muk, W. H., 1949, The solitary wave theoryv. i, p. 149-200. and its application to surf problems: New

York Aced. Sd. Ann., v. 51, p. 376-401.

785. Johnson, J. W., 1945, Generalized diagram forforecasting breaker and surf on a straight 798. Munk, W. H., and Sargent, M. C., 1948,

beach of infinite length: Berkeley, Calif., Adjustment of Bikini Atoll to ocean waves:

Eng. Foundation Tech. Rept. HB-116-13,4p. Am. Geophys. Union Trans. , v. 29,p. 855-860.

786. Johnson, J. W., and Wiegel, R. L., 1953,Summary of research on waves, surf, and 799. Muk, W. H. and Sverdrup, H. U., 1946,Sumary ofereearch onav, surf, Fondtn Theoretical and empirical relations in fore-beaches: Berkeley, Calif., Eng. Foundationcatnbrkesaduf:A.Goh.Tech, Rept. 3, no. 350. casting breakers and surf: Am. Geophys.

Union Trans., v. 27, p. 828-836.

787. Keller, J. B., 1949, The solitary wave andperidicwavs i shllowwatr: ew ork 800. O'Brien, M. P., 1946, The causes of plungingperiodic waves in shallow water: New York and spilling breakers: Berkeley, Calif.,Aced. Se. Ann., v. 51, . 345-350. Eng. Foundation Tech, Rept., HE 116-192,

788. Kondratyev, N. Y., 1950, The transformation 3 p.

of the waves in shallow water at gradually 801. O'Brien, M. P., 1949, The causes of plunging

decreasing depth: Trudy Gos. Gidrolog. and spilling breakers: U. S. Beach ErosionBoard Bull., v. 3, p. 7-10.

32

802. O'Brien, M. P., and Johnson, J.W., 1947, v. 196, p. 819-820.Wartime research on waves and surf: Mil.Engineer, v. 39, p. 239-242. 815. Stelzenmuller, W. B., 1941, A model study of

waves on a eloping bottom: Univ. Calif.,

803. Putnam, J. A., 1949, Loss of wave energy M.s . Thesis.

due to percolation in a permeable sea

bottom: Am. Geophys. Union Trans., v. 30,bottom:3A. ei816. Stoker, J. J., Jr., 1949, The breaking of waves

p. 349-356. in shallow water: New York Acad. Sci. Ann.,

804. Putnam, J. A., and Johnson, J. W., 1949, v. 51, p. 360-375.

The dissipation of wave energy by bottomfriction: Am. Geophys. Union Trans., v.30, 817. Sverdrup, H. U., and Munk, W. H., 1946,

frict. A. oTheoretical and empirical relations in fore-

p. 67-74. casting breakers and surf: Am. Geophys.

805. Reid, R. 0., 1956, Approximate response of Union Trans., v. 27, p. 828-836.

water level on a sloping shelf to a windfetch which moves towards shore: U. S. 818. U. S. Hydrographic Office, 1945, Breakers indBeach Erosion Board Tech. Memo. 83. surf, principles in forecasting: U. S. Navy

H. 0. Pub. 284, 52 p.

806. Roseau, M., 1951, Wave motion of the sea ata beach: C.-R. Acad. Sci., v. 231, 819. Waterways Experiment Station, 1947, Modelp. 1212-1214. study of wave and surge action, Naval Oper-

ating Base, Terminal Island, San Pedro,

807. Savage, R. P., 1959, Laboratory data on wave California: W. E. S. Tech. Memo. 2-237.

run-up on on roughened and permeable 820. Waterways Experiment Station, 1947, Wavesslopes: U. S. Beach Erosion Board Tech.so . . Band surge action, Point Fermin Naval Supply

Memo. 109. Depot, San Pedro, California; Model investi-

808. Savage, R. P., and Rayner, A, C., 1953, gation: W. E. S. Tech. Memo. 2-238.

Laboratory study of wave energy losses by 821. Waterways Experiment Station, 1949, Wave andbottom friction and percolation: U. S. surgWatcway nExp oimeteactionr19r, Wave andBeach Erosion Board Tech, Memo. 31. surge action, Long Beach Harbor, California;

Model investigation: W. E. S. Tech. Memo.2-265.

809. Saville, T., Jr., 1952, Wind set-up and waves

in shallow water: U. S. Beach Erosionir hal .wate: U,7. B822. Waterways Experiment Station, 1949, Wave andBoard Tech. Memo 27.

surge action, Monterey Harbor, California:

810. Scripps Institute of Oceanography, 1944, Effect W. E. S. Tech. Memo. 2-301.

of bottom slope on breaker characteristics 823. Wiegel, R. L., 1950, Experimental study of

as observed along the Scripps Institute Pier: surfe wv in s0,Epin atr: omScripps Int. Oceanography, Wave Report surface waves in shoaling water: Am.

Srp 24 t O p Wv eGeophys. Union Trans., v. 31, p. 377-385.no. 24, 10 p.

824. Wiegel, R. L., and Fughe, R. A., 1955, Wave811. Scripps Institute of Oceanography, 1944, Waves transformation in shoaling water: Am. Geo-

in shallow water: Change in wave height phys. Union Trans., v. 36, p. 975-984.along the Scripps Institute Pier with special

emphasis on breaker characteristics: 825. Yu, Y. Y., 1952, Breaking of waves by anScripps Inst. Oceanography, Wave Rept. no. opposing current: Am. Geophys. Union

1, 9 P. Trans., v. 33, p. 39-41.

812. Scripps Institute of Oceanography, 1945, Supple-ment to breakers and surf: Scripps Inst.Oceanography, Wave Rept. No. 49, 19 p.

813. Sibl, 0. J., 1955, Laboratory study of thegeneration of wind waves in shallow water:U. S. Beach Erosion Board Tech. Memo. 72.

814. Silvester, R., 1962, Coastal processes: Nature,

33

II.B. 2. SHOALING AND BREAKING WAVES, WAVE REFRACTION

826. Arthur, R. S., 1950, Refraction of shallow 839. Kondratyev, N. Y., 1952, Breaking-up of thewater waves; the combined effect of currents waves at partial refraction: Trudy Gos.and underwater topography: Am. Geophys. Gidrolog. Instituta, no. 35.Union Trans., v. 31, p. 549-552.

840. Longuet-Higgins, M. S., 1956, The refraction

827. Arthur, R. S., 1953, Calculation of refraction of sea waves in shallow water: Jour. Fluidfactor along a wave ray: U. S. Beach Mechanics, v. 1, p. 163-176.Erosion Board Bull., v. 7, p. 1-12.

841. Longuet-Higgins, M. S., 1957, On the trans-828. Bascom, W. N., 1954, The control of stream formation of a continuous spectrum by

outlets by wave refraction: Jour. Geology, refraction: Cambridge Philos. Soc., v. 53,v. 62, p. 600-604. p. 226-229.

829. Caldwell, J. M., 1949, Reflection of solitary 842. Munk, W. H., and Author, R. S., 1951, Wave

waves: U. S. Beach Erosion Board Tech. intensity along a refracted ray: Natl. Bur.

Memo. 11. Standards, Symposium on Waves.

830. Chien, N., 1954, Ripple tank studies of wave 843. O'Brien, M. P., 1950, Wave refraction at

refraction: Am. Geophys. Union Trans., Long Beach and Santa Barbara, California:

v. 35, p. 897-904. U. S. Beach Erosion Board Bull., v. 4,p. 1-4.

831. Dunham, J. W., 1950, Refractions and diffrac-tion diagrams: Coastal Engineering, Proc. 844. Palmer, R. Q., 1957, Wave refraction plotter:

First Conf., p. 33-49. U. S. Beach Erosion Board Bull., v. 11,p. 13-16.

832. Edmondson, W. T., 1949, Wave action and 845. Palmer, R. Q., 1963, Nomograph for deter-effects of refraction: Jour. Am. Shore and mining product of shoaling and refractionBeach Preserv. Assn., v. 17, p. 35-36. coefficients for use in wave analysis:

U, S. Beach Erosion Board Bull., v. 17,833. Forrest, D. R., 1951, Comparison of observed . 6.

wave direction with a refraction diagram:

U. S. Board Erosion Board Bull., v. 5, 846. Pierson, W. J., Jr., 1950, The interpretationp. 24-25. of crossed orthogonals in wave refraction

phenomena: U. S. Beach Erosion Board834. Isaacs, J. D., 1944, Memorandum on drawing Tech. Memo. 21.

refraction diagrams directly by orthogonals:Berkeley, Calif., Eng. Foundation, Rept. 847. Saville, T., Jr., 1951, A method of drawingHE-116-47. orthogonals seaward from shore: U. S.

Beach Erosion Board Bull., v. 5, p. 1-6.835. Johnson, J. W., 1947, The refraction of sur-

face waves by currents: Am. Geophys. 848. Saville, T., Jr., and Kaplan, K,, 1952, A newUnion Trans., v. 28, p. 867-874. method for graphical construction of wave

refraction diagrams: U. S. Beach Erosion836. Johnson, J. W., 1951, Generalized wave dif- Board Bull., v. 6, p. 23-34.

fraction diagrams: Coastal Engineering,Proc. Second Conf., p. 6-23. 849. Unna, P. J. H., 1946, Wave energy: sideways

flow and losses by the shore: Nature,837. Johnson, J. W., O'Brien, M. P., and Isaacs, v. 158, p. 635-636.

J. D., 1948, Geographical construction ofwave refraction diagrams: U. S. Hydro- 850. Wiegel, R. L., and Arnold, A. L., 1957.graphic Off. Pub. No. 605, 45 p. Model study of wave refraction: U. S. Beach

Erosion Board Tech. Memo. 103.838. Kaplan, K., 1952, A method for drawing orth-

ogonals seaward from shore, a discussion: 851. Williams, E. A., and Isaacs, J. D., 1952, TheU. S. Beach Erosion Board Bull., v. 6, refraction of group. and of the waves whichp. 18-21. they generate in shallow water: Am. (36o-

34

phys. Union Trans., v. 33, p. 523-530.

II.B. 3. SHOALING AND BREAKING WAVES, LITTORAL CURRENTS

852. Brennan, J. F., and Meaux, R. P., 1964,Observations of the nearshore water circu- Tech. Rept. HE-116-279, 11 p.

lation off a sand beach: U. S. Naval Post- 863. Putnam, J. A., Munk, W. H., and Traylor,graduate School Thesis, Monterey, Calif. M. A., 1949, The prediction of longshore

currents: Am. Geophys. Union Trans.,853. Davis, W. M., 1925, The "undertow" : v. 30, p. 337-345.

Science, v. 62, p. 33.864. Scripps Institute of Oceanography, 1945, Long-

854. Haight, F. J., 1942, Coastal currents along shore currents: Scripps Inst. Oceanographythe Atlantic Coast of the United States: U.S. Wave Rept. 40, 12 p.Coast and Geodetic Survey Publ., no. 230,U. S. Dept. of Commerce, Washington, D. C. 865. Shepard, F. P., 1936, Undertow, rip tide or

"rip currents.": Science, v. 84,p. 181-182.855. Harris, R. A., 1907, Currents, shallow-water

tides, meteorological tides, and miscellan- 866. Shepard, F. P., 1950, Longshore currenteous matters: Manual of Tides, Part V, observations in southern California: U. S.Report Superintendent Coast and Geodetic Beach Erosion Board Tech. Memo. 13.Survey, Appendix 6, Washington, D. C.

867. Shepard, F. P., Emery, K. 0., and LaFond,856. Hennebique, J. J., 1934, Littoral drift: Civil E. C., 1941, Rip currents: A process of

Eng., v. 4, p. 159-161. geological importance: Jour. Geology,v. 49, p. 337-369.

857. Inman, D. L., and Quinn, W. H., 1951,Currents in the surf zone: Coastal Engineer- 868. Shepard, F. P., and Inman, D. L., 1950,ing, Proc. Second Conf., p. 24-36. Nearshore circulation: Coastal Engineering,

Proc. First Conf., p. 50-59.858. Isaacs, J. D., 1945, Littoral currents at

Estero Bay: Berkeley, Calif., Eng. Foun- 869. Shepard, F. P., and LaFond, E. C., 1939,dation Tech. Rept. HE-116-132, 6 p. Undertow: Science, v. 89, p. 78-79.

859. McKenzie, P., 1958, Rip-current systems: 870. Shepard, F. P., and Sayner, D. B., 1953,Jour. Geology, v. 66, p. 103-113. Longshore and coastal currents at Scripps

Institute Pier: U. S. Beach Erosion Board860. Miyazaki, M., 1949, On the directivity of the Bull., v. 7, p. 1-9.

current rips: Oceanogr. Mag., v. 1,p. 133-134. 871. Stevenson, C. D., 1964, A study of currents

in southern Monterey Bay: U. S. Naval

861. Munk, W. H., and Traylor, M. A., 1945, Postgraduate School Thesis, Monterey,Forecasting longshore currents: Scripps Calif.Inst. Oceanography, Wave Rept. 46, 7 p.

872. Van Straaten, L. M. J. U., 1961, Directional862. Putnam, J. A., Munk, W. H., and Traylor, effects of winds, waves and currents along

M. A., 1948, An investigation of longshore the Dutch north sea coast: Geologie Encurrents: Berkeley, Calif. Eng. Foundation Mijnbouw, 40e Jaargang, p. 333-346.

U. C. BEACH AND NEARSHORE PROCESSES, TIDES AND TIDAL CURRENTS

874. Charnock, H. , 1959, Tidal friction from cur-873. Agnew, R., 1960, Estuarine currents and rents near the sea bed. Geophysical

tidal streams: Coastal Engineering, Proc. Journal Royal Astronomical Society, v. 2,Seventh Conf., p. 510-535. p. 215-221.

35

875. Chase, J., 1954, A comparison of certain North Geophys. Union Trans., v. 31, p. 357-376.Atlantic wind, tide-gauge and current data:Jour. Marine Research, v. 13, p. 22-31. 884. Redfield, A. C., The analysis of tidal phenom-

ena in narrow embayments: Phys. Oceano-876. Disney, L. P., 1955, Tide heights along the graphy and Meteorology Paper, v. 11, 36 p.

coasts of the United States: Am. Soc. CivilEngineers, Proc., v. 81, p. 666-1-666-R 885. Scihuremen, P., Tide and current glossary:

U. S. Coast and Geodetic Survey Spec. Pub.877. Finnegan, H. E., 1951, Some significant 228.

characteristics of the tide: Shore andBeach, v. 19, p. 14-16. 886. Sibul, 0. J., 1955, Laboratory study of wind

tides in shallow water: U.S. Beach Erosion878. Finnegan, H. E., 1953, Significant aspects of Board Tech. Memo. 61.

the tides: The Science Counselor, v. 16,p. 16-20. 887. Sibul, 0. J., and Johnson, J. W., 1957,

Laboratory study of wind tides in shallow879. Keulegan, G. H., and Hall, J. V., Jr., 1950, water: Am. Soc. Civil Engineers, Water-

A formula for the calculation of the tidal ways Harbors Div. Jour., v. 83, p. 1210-discharge through an inlet: U. S. Beach 1232.Erosion Board Bull., v. 4, p. 15-29.

888. U. S. Army, 1950, Tides: U. S. Army, Corps880. McKay, E. C., 1955, The tidal movement and of Engineers, Committee on Tidal Hydraulics,

its prediction: Shore and Beach, v. 23, Rept. No. 1.p. 17-20.

889. U. S. Department of Commerce, 1941, Manual881. Mariner, H. A., 1943, Tide observations at of tide observations: U. S. Coast and Geo-

Baltimore, and the problem of coastal detic Survey, Washington, D. C.stability: Geog. Rev., v. 33, p. 620-629.

890. U. S. Department of Commerce, 1961, Tidal882. Mariner, H. A., 1951, Tidal datum planes: currents: U. S. Coast and Geodetic Survey,

U. S. Coast and Geodetic Survey, Sp. Pub., Washington, D. C.no. 135, 142 p.

891. Whitney, P. C., 1935, Tidal action on shore883. Nishimura, E., 1950, On earth tides: Am. line: Shore and Beach, v. 3, p. 16-18.

II. D. BEACH AND NEARSHORE PROCESSES, STORMS AND HURRICANES

892. Abdullah, A. J., 1953, On the dynamics of D. L., 1957, Empirical methods for fore-hurricanes: New York Univ. Col. Eng. casting the maximum storm tide due toMeteorol. Papers, v. 2, No. 2, 43 p. hurricanes and other tropical storms:

Monthly Weather Review, v. 85.893. Bretschneider, C. L., 1959, Hurricane design-

wave practices: Am. Soc. Civil Engineers 898. Corkan, R. N., 1948, Storm surges, theirTrans., v. 124, p. 39-62. importance in modern tidal science and some

results of a recent investigation: Dock and894. Bretachneider, C. L., 1959, Hurricane surge Harbour, v. 28.

predictions for Chesapeake Bay: U. S. BeachErosion Board, Misc. Paper No. 3-59. 899. Darbyshire, J., 1955, An investigation of storm

waves in the North Atlantic ocean: Royal895. Cline, I. M., 1926, Tropical cyclones: New Soc. London, A, Proc., v. 230, p. 560-569.

York, MacMillan Co., 291 p.900. Dorrestein, R., 1960, Wave set-up on a beach:

896. Cline, 1. M., 1933, Tides and coastal currents Am. Meteor. Soc., Natl. Hurricane Res.developed by tropical cyclones: Monthly Proj. Preprint Serv.Weather Review, v. 61, p. 36-36.

901. Dunn, G. E., 1957, Hurricanes and hurricane897. Conner, W. C., Kraft, R. H., and Harris, tides: Coastal Engineering Proc. Sixth Conf..

36

p. 19-29. 909. Reynolds, G., 1953, Storm surge reserach:Weather, v. 8, p. 101-107.

902. Graham, H. E., and Nunn, D. E., 1959,Meteorological considerations pertienet to 910. Riehl, H., and Schaeffer, R. J., 1944, Thestandard project hurricane, Atlantic and recurvature of tropical storms: Jour. Mete-Gulf Coasts of the United States: U. S. orology, v. 1, p. 42-54.Weather Bur. Natil. Hurricane Res. Proj.Rept. no. 33. 911. Robinson, A. H. W., 1953, The storm surge of

31st January - lot February 1953, and the903. Harris, D. L., 1957, The hurricane surge: associated meteorological and tidal conditions:

Coastal Engineering, Proc. Sixth Conf., Geography, v. 38, p. 134-141.p. 96-114.

912. Savage, R. P., 1957, Model tests of wave run-904. Harris, D. L., 1958, Meteorological aspects up for hurricane protection project: U. S.

of storm surge generation: Hydrol. Div. Beach Erosion Board Bull., v. 11, p. 1-12.Jour., Am. Soc. Civil Engineers Proc.,Paper 1859, v. 84, No. Hy. 7, p. 1-25. 913. Stewart, J. Q., 1962, The Great Atlantic

Coast Tides of 5-8 March 1962: Weather-905. Horrer, P. L., 1950, Southern hemisphere wise, v. 15, p. 117-120.

swell and waves from a tropical storm atLong Beach, California: U. S. Beach 914. Tannehill, I. R., 1944, Hurricanes: Princeton,Erosion Board Bull., v. 4, p. 1-18. Princeton Univ. Press., 269 p.

906. Kaplan, K., and Saville, T., Jr., 1954, Corn- 915. Tickner, E. G., 1957, Effect of bottom rough-parison of hindcast and observed waves along ness on wind tide in shallow water: U.S.the northern New Jersey Coast for the storm Beach Erosion Board Tech. Memo. 95.of November 6-7, 1953. U. S. Beach Eros-ion Board Bull., v. 8, p. 13-17. 916. Todd, D. K., and Wiegel, R. L., 1952, Near

coastal storms and associated waves: Am.907. Lundbak, A., 1955, The North Sea storm surge Geophys. Union Trans., v. 33, p. 217-225.

of February 1, 1953. Its origin and develop-ment: Geografisk Tidsskrift be. 54, Koben- 917. Weather Bureau, Department of Commerce,havn. Also published in: Meddelelser fra 1962, East coast Atlantic storm: Shore andSkalling-Laboratoriet bd. XV, Kobenhavn Beach, v. 30, p. 4-9.1957.

918. Wilson, B. W., 1960, The prediction of hurri-908. Magnuson, N. C., 1958, The hurricanefloods cane storm-tides in New York Bay: U. S.

in the Carolinas: U. S. Army Engineers, Beach Erosion Board Tech. Memo. 120.Wilmington, N. C., unpubl.

II. E. BEACH AND NEARSHORE PROCESSES, AEOLIAN PROCESSES

919. Bagnold, R. A., 1937, The transport of sand bywind: Geog. Jour., v. 89, p. 407-438. 923. Egorov., E. N., 1953, Importance of aeolian

processes for the dynamics of a low-lying

920. Bagnold, R. A., 1941, Physics of blown sand coast of accumulation: Trudy Instituteand desert dunes: Win. Morrow & Co., N.Y. Okeanologii AN/SSSR, v. 7.265 p.

924. Ford, E. F., 1957, The transport of sand by921. Belly, Pierre-Yves, 1964, Sand movement by wind: Am. Geophys. Union Trans., v. 38,

wind: U. S. Eng. Research Center, Tech. p. 171.Memo. 1.

925. Horikawa, D., and Shen, H.W., 1960, Sand922. Egorov, E. N., 1952, The influence of wind on movement by wind action (on the character-

the morphology of sandy shores: Izvestiya istics of sand traps): U. S. Beach ErosionAN/SSSR, Seriya Geogr., no. 3. Board Tech. Memo. 19.

37

926. Kuhlman, H., 1957, Sand drift and dune form- Meddelelser fra Skalling-Laboratoriet bd.ation in relation to wind velocity: Geografisk 16, 1959.Tiddskrift be. 56, Kobenhav. Also publishedin: Meddlelser fra Skalling-Laboratoriet, 928. Mason, M. A., 1950, The wind element in beach

bd. 16, Kobenhavn 1959. erosion: U. S. Beach Erosion Board, v. 4,p. 19-23.

927. Kuhlman, H., 1958, Quantitative measurementsof aeoliansand transport: Geografisk Tids- 929. O'Brien, M. P., and Rindlaub, B. D., 3936,

skrift be. 57, Kobenhavn. Also published in The transportation of sand by wind: CivilEngineering, v. 6, p. 325-327.

II. F. BEACH AND NEARSHORE PROCESSES, MEASUREMENT TECHNIQUES

930. Barber, N. F., 1954, Finding the direction of Mer. 23, p. 38-46.

travel of sea waves: Nature, v. 174, p. 1048. 941. Draper, L., 1961, Wave-recording instruments

93 1. Beach Erosion Board, 1948, An ocean wave for civil engineering use: Conference on wave

measuring instrument: U. S. Beach Erosion recording for Civil Engineers Proc.,

Board Tech. Memo. 6. National Inst. Oceanog., p. 7-17.

932. Beach Erosion Board, 1952, Description and 942. Farmer, H. G., and Ketchum, D. D., 1960,operating instructions for wave gage WH-I: An instrumentation system for wave measure-

ments, recording and analysis: CoastalU. -. Beach Erosion Board Bull., v. 6, Engineering Proc. Seventh Conf., p. 77-99.p. 1-2.

933. Beach Erosion Board, 1952, Laboratory study 943. Farmer, H. G., Marks, W., Walden, R. G.,of an electromagnetic current meter: U. S. and h. G. G., W., Aldenique G.,Beach Erosion Board Bull., v. 6, p. 19-22. and Whittney, 0. G., 1956, A technique for

ocean wave measurements: First Conf. Ships934. Beach Erosion Board and Bureau of Reclamation, and Waves Proc. Oct. 54, Coun. Waves

Denver Colorado, 1954, Tidal current meter: 52.

U. S. Beach Erosion Board Bull., v. 8,

p. 1-8. 944. Folsom, R. G., 1949, The measurement ofocean waves: Am. Geophys. Union Trans.,

935. Caldwell, J. M., 1948, An ocean wave measur-

ing instrument: U. S. Beach Erosion Board v. 30, p. 691-699.

Tech. Memo. 6. 945. Forrest, D. R., 1950, A method of estimatingwave direction: U. S. Beach Erosion Board

936. Carruthers, J. N., 1961, A simple current-measuring bottle for fishermen: Fishing News. Bull., v. 4, p. 31-40.

937. Carruthers, J. N., 1962, The easy measure- 946. Gerhardt, J. R., Jehn, K. H., and Katz, I.,

ment of bottom currents at modest depths: 1955, A comparison of step-, pressure-,Civil Engineering and Public Works Review. and continuous wire-gage wave recordings

in the Golden Gate channel: Am. Geophys.Union Trans., v. 36, p. 235-250.

938. Chang, S. S., 1955, A magnetic tape wave

recorder and energy spectrum analyzer for 947. Hall, J. V., Jr., 1950, The rayleigh disk as athe analysis of ocean wave records: U. S. wave direction indicator: U. S, BeachBeach Erosion Board Tech. Memo. 58. Erosion Board Tech. Memo. 18.

939. Corps of Engineers, U.S. Army, 1952, 948. Isaacs, J. D., and Wiegel, R. L., 1950, TheHydraulic design-waves and wave pressures: thermopile wave meter: Am. Geophys. UnionEngineering Manual for Civil Works, Part Trans., v. 31, p. 711-716.116, Chap. 8.

949. Iversen, H. W., 1945, Sighting bar for obeer-940. Cox, R. A., 1957, An improved salinity and vations of breaker height and distance to

density meter: Jour. Cons. Int. Explor. breakers: Berkeley, Calif., Eng. Foundation

38

Fluid Mech. Iab. Tech. Rept. HE-116-42. photographs for wave length, height of break-ers period, and stage of tide: Berkeley,

950. Jacobson, A. W., 1948, An instrument for Calif., Eng. Foundation, Fluid Mech. Lab.recording continuously the salinity, temper- Tech. Rept. HE-116-102.ature, and depth of water: Am. Inst. Elect-rical Engineers Trans., v. 67, 1. 714-722. 958. Rockwell, J., 1961, editor, Interagency com-

mittee on oceanography of the federal council951. Johnson, J. W., 1944, Surf observations by for science and technology, United States of-

ground photographs: Berkeley, Calif. Eng. America: Government-Industry OceanographyFoundation, Fluid Mech. Lab. Tech. Rept. Instrumentation Symposium Proc., AugustHE-116-96. 16-17.

952. Kellum, F. W., 1956, An electronic gage for 959. Scripps Institute of Oceanography, 1944,

measurement of small waves and ripples: Method of determining depth in shallow waterU. S. Beach Erosion Board Bull., v. 10, from aerial photographs (wave velocityp. 32-40. method): Scripps Inst. Oceanography, Rept.

No. 1, 9p.953. Klebba, A. A., 1949, Details of shore based

wave recorder and ocean wave analyzer: 960. Snodgrass, F. E., 1950, Wave recorders:New York Acad. Sci. Ann., v. 51, p. 533- Coastal Engineering, Proc. First Con.,544. p. 69-82.

954. Levchenko, S. P., 1956, Research done with 961. Snodgrass, F. E., 1952, Wave measurements:the electro-contact wave recorder: Trudy Natl. Acad. Sci., Pub. 309, p. 139-165.Morskogo Gidrofisicheskogo Instituta, v. 8.

962. Tucker, M. J., 1956, The NIO wave analyzer:955. McAdam, D., 1947, Measurements of breaker Coastal Engineering, Proc. First Conf.,

heights by the use of an aerial camera: p. 129-133.Berkeley, Calif., Eng. Foundation, FluidMech. Lab. Tech. Rept. HE-116-244. 963. Waterways Experiment Station, 1940, Auto-

matic measurement of waves: Hydrol. Ser.956. Marks, W., and Ronne, F. C., 1955, Aerial Bull., v. 3.

stero-photography and ocean waves: Photo-grammetric Eng. p. 107-113. 964. Waterways Experiment Station, 1940, Measure-

ment of littoral currents: Hydrol. Ser. Bull.,957. Morey, B. F., 1945, The analysis of aerial v. 3.

III. COASTAL ENGINEERING

M. A. GENERAL COASTAL AND BEACH ENGINEERING

965. Anonymous, 1957, The basic coastal model: 969. Beach Erosion Board, 1961, Shore protectionHydraulics Research, p. 33-36. planning and design: U. S. Beach Erosion

Board, Tech. Rept. 4.966. Anonymous, 1958, Basic coastal model: 970. Blood, H. K. W., 1949, The accretion and

Hydraulics Research, p. 52-54. erosion of beaches: Jour. Civil Engineers,v. 32, p. 230-232.

967. Anonymous, 1959, Basic coastal model:

Hydraulics Research, p. 55-60. 971. Brown, E. I., 1937, The public interest inbeaches: Shore and Beach, v. 5, p. 19-20.

968. Beach Erosion Board, 1948, Methods of solu-

tion of shore problems: U. S. Beach Erosion 972. Brown, E. I., 1938, Studies of beach erosion:Board Bull., v. 2, p. 8-12. Engineering News Record, v. 120.

39

973. Brown, E. I., 1939, Beach erosion studies: 988. Coastal Engineering Staff, 1957, Coastal engi-Shore and Beach, v. 7, p. 3-13. neering investigation at Jupiter Island:

Florida Eng. and Ind. Exp. Sta., Tech.974. Brown, E. I. 1939, Beach erosion studies: Prog. Rept. No, 5, v. 11, No, 3.

Am. Soc. Civil Engineers Proc., v. 65,p. 69-92. 989. Coastal Engineering Staff, 1957, Studies and

recommendations for the control of beach975. Brown, E. I., 1940, Beach erosion studies: erosion in Florida: Florida Eng. and Ind,

Am. Soc. Civil Engineers Proc., v. 66, Exp. Sta., Gainesville.p. 303-311.

990. Coastal Engineering Staff, 1958, Coastal engi-976. Bruun, P., 1953, Coastal protection: review of neering study of Fort Pierce beach: Florida

methods for defence: Dock & Harbour, v. 34, Eng. and Ind. Exp. Sta. Tech. Rept. No. 7,p. 217-222 and p. 233-237. v. 12, no. 9.

977. Bruun, P., 1955, Beach profiles and develop- 991. Converse, J. B., 1930, Shore and storm pro-ment of plans for coastal protection: Leaflet tection on the Gulf coast: Jour. Am. Con-No. 66, Florida Eng. and Ind. Exp. Sta., crete Inst., v. 1.Univ. Florida, Gainesville.

992. Currier, L. W., 1953, Geology in shoreline978. Bruun, P., 1955, Coastal development and engineering and its application to Massachu-

coastal protection: Florida Eng. and Ind. setts beach problems: Coastal Engineering,Exp. Sta. Bull. No. 76, v. 9, Gainesville. v. 3, p. 109-118.

979. Bruun, P., 1955, Stability of beaches: Shore 993. Dent, E. J., 1931, New study of beach erosion:and Beach, v. 23, p. 21-26. Mil. Engineer, v. 23, p. 256-260.

980. Bruun, P., 1957, Florida coastal problems: 994. Division of Water Survey, 1952, Beach pro-Coastal Engineering, Proc. Sixth Conf., tection in Florida: Water Survey and

p. 463-509. Research Paper 8, Tallahassee, Florida.

981. Bruun, P., 1960, Coastal research and its 995. Dobbie, C. H., 1954, Some sea defence workseconomic Justification: Saetryk af Geografisk in England: Coastal Engineering, Proc.Tidsskrift, 59. bind, p. 33-57. Fifth Conf., p. 441-447.

982. Bruun, P., 1962, Engineering aspects of sedi- 996. Dubrow, M. D., and Rayner, A. C., 1948,ment transport: Florida Eng. and Ind. Exp. Recent storm damage along the coasts: Mil.Sta., Tech. Prog. Rept. No. 11, v. 16, Engineer, v. 40, p. 120-124.No. 7, Gainesville.

997. Duvivier, J., 1947, The problem of coasterosion: Inst. Civil Engineers, Eng. Div.

983. Bruun, P., and Asce, F., 1962, Sea-level rise Papers, Maritime Waterways Eng. Div.,as a cause of shore erosion: Am. Soc. Civil PaperS, 47 p.Engineers, Waterways Harbor Div., v. 88,p. 2-15. 998. Evans, 0. F., 1941, Shore line formation by

currents: Shore and Beach, v. 9, p. 245-984. Caldwell, J. M., 1949, Beach erosion: Sci. 248.

Monthly, v. 59, p. 229-236.999. Fellows, C. E., 1944, Coastal protection:

985. Caldwell, J. M., 1951, Research activities of Civil Engineering (?), v. -9.the Beach Erosion Board: Coastal Engineer-ing, Proc. Second Conf., p. 187-194. 1000. Fineren, W. W., 1988, Study of beach con-

ditions at Daytona Beach, Florida &nd986. Caldwell, J. M., 1957, Status of research in vicinity: Florida Eng. and Ind. Exp. Sta.,

shore line protection: U. S. Beach Erosion Bull. 4, Galnesville.Board Bull., v. 11, p. 17-27.

1001. Gerritse, I. F., 1956, Coastal research in987. Case, G. 0., 1926, Causes of coast erosion the Netherlands: Shore and Beach, v. 24,

and accretion: Surveyor, London, v. 69. p. 9-11.

40

1002. Gesler, E. E., 1953, What to expect from a origin of beaches: The Surveyor & Muni-beach erosion study: Shore and Beach, cipal Engineer, London, v. 115, p. 837-v. 21, p. 16-20. 841.

1003. Glenn, A. H., 1950, Wave, tide, current, and 1017. Hunter, R. C., 1946, Report on cooperativehurricane problems in coastal operations: beach erosion study at Santa Barbara,Oil and Gas. Jour., v. 48, p. 174-177, California: U. S. Army, Corps of Eng.,320-322. Los Angeles, 43 p.

1004. Grant, U. S., 1938, Geological problems in- 1018. Johnson, J. W., 1961, Historical photographvolved in the conservation of beaches: and the coastal engineer: Shore and Beach,Pacific Southwest Acad. Pub. 16, p. 27-28. v. 29, p. 18-25.

1005. Hall, W. C., 1938, A model study of beacherosion: Univ. Calif., M.S. Thesis, 41 p. 1019. Johnson, J. W., and Wiegel, R. L., 1952,

Elements of wave theory affecting coastal1006. Hall, W. C., 1942, Beach protection measures: engineering: Docks & Harbours, v. 33,

Miu. Engineer, v. 34, p. 292-296.p.1-8p. 15-18.

1007. Hall, J. V., Jr., 1963, Coastal engineeringstructures: U. S. Beach Erosion Board 1020. Karo, H. A., 1958, New state program inBull., v. 17, p. 16-38. beach preservation: Annual Meeting,

Florida Shore and Beach Preservation1008. Handin, J. W., 1950, The geological aspects Association.

of coastal engineering: Coastal Engineer-ing, Proc. First Conf., p. 133-136. 1021. Kaye, C. A., 1963, Erosion of Fire Island,

N. Y.; A report prepared for the U. S.1009. Hansen, H. J., 1947, Beach erosion studies in Natl. Park Serv., unpub.

Florida: Florida Eng. and Ind. Exp. Sta.,Bull. 16, Gainesville. 1022. Keay, T. B., 1940, General question of coast

erosion and measures desireable for pre-1010. Hardin, J. R., and Booth, W. H., Jr., 1952, vention of damage caused thereby: Jour.

Lake Michigan erosion studies: Am. Soc. Inst. Munic, and County Engineers, v. 67.Civil Eng. Proc., v. 78, p. 115-1-115-13.

1023. Keay, T. B., 1942, Coast erosion in Great1011. Horton, D. F., 1948, An engineer looks at Britain: Shore and Beach, v. 10, p. 3-5.

Waikiki Beach: U. S. Beach Erosion BoardBull., v. 2, p. 1-7. 1024. Krumbein, W. C., 1950, Geologic aspects of

beach engineering: Geol. Soc. Ar.erica

1012. Horton, D. F., 1948, Shore effects of coastal Berkey Vol., p. 195-225.structures: Mil. Engineer, v. 40, p. 402-405. 1025. Lindner, C. P., 1962, Our departing shores:

Shore and Beach, v. 30, p. 29-30.

1013. Hoyle, J. W., and King, G. T., 1955, Longi-tudinal stability of beaches: The Surveyor & 1026. Lipp, M. N., 1936, Some data on beach pro-Municipal Engineer, London, v. 114, tection works: Civil Eng., v. 6, p. 291-p. 1029-1032. 295.

1014. Hoyle, J. W., and King, G. T., 1965, The 1027. McCabe, W. W., 1937, Results of cooperationlateral stability of shingle beaches: The in beach protection: Shore and Beach, v. 5,Surveyor & Municipal Engineer, London, p. 20-21.v. 114, p. 1159-1163.

1028. McMillan, T. S., 1937, The beach interests of1015. Hoyle, J. W., and King, G. T., 1955, The South Carolina: Shore and Beach, v. 5,

orientation of beaches: The Surveyor & p. 17-19.Municipal Engineer, London, v. 114,p. 1179-1182. 1029. Mackenzie, A. D., 1940, Coastal erosion in

Victoria, Australia: Dock and Harbour,1016. Hoyle, J.W., and King, G. T., 1956, The v. 20.

41

1030. Mason, M. A., 1947, The importance of shore 1045. Scott, W. H., 1955, Sea erosion and coastprotection studies: U. S. Beach Erosion protection at Sunmer, N. Z. : New ZealandBoard Bull., v. 1, p. 13-16. Eng., v. 10, p. 438-447.

1031. Mason, M. A., 1950, Geology in shore-control 1046. Silvester, R., 1960, Stabilization of sed'ment-problems: Trask, P. D., Editor, Applied ary coastlines: Nature, v. 188, p. 437-Sedimentation: New York, John Wiley & Sons, 469.707 p.

1047. Somers, P., 1952, Developments in the1032. Mason, M. A., 1951, Pertinent factors in the science of coastal engineering: U. S.

protection of the Gulf coast: Coastal Engi- Beach Erosion Board, v. 6, p. 14-19.neering, Proc. Second Conf., p. 217-225.

1048. Stamp, L. D., 1939, Some economic aspects

1033. Minikin, R. C. R., 1948-1949, Coast pro- of coastal loss and gain: Geog. Jour.,tection, a survey of beach stability: Dock v. 93, p. 496-503.and Harbour, v. 29, p. 165-169, 193-198,232-236, 251-256, 281-285, 311-314. 1049. Steers, J. A., 1946, Coastal preservation

and planning: Geog. Jour., v. 107,

1034. Minikin, R. C. R., 1952, Coast erosion and p. 57-60.

protection: London, Chapman & Hall, 236 p.1050. Steers, J. A., 1960, Defense against the sea:

1035. Minikin, R. C. R., 1954, Fundamentals of Advancement of Science, p. 7-15.coast erosion and defense: Coastal Engi-neering, Proc. Fifth Conf., p.448-471. 1051. Thorn, R. B., 1960, The design of sea

defence works: London, Butterworth Si.1036. Nicholls, C, P. L., 1941, Sand, surf and Publ., 102 p.

sense: Shore and Beach, v. 9, p. 48-49.1052. Turner, M. D., 1956, Some geological as-

1037. North Carolina Convention, 1953, American pects of the beaches and beach erosion inshore and beach preservation association: Puerto Rico: Shore and Beach, v. 24,Shore and Beach, v. 21, p. 11-12. p. 4-8.

1038. Olivieri, J. M., 1956, Beach erosion problems 1053. United States Department of Interior, Nationalat the northern coast of Puerto Rico: Shore Park Service, 1954, Our vanishing shore-and Beach, v. 24, p. 9-11. line: the shoreline, the survey, the area:

U. S. NatI. Park Ser., Washington, D. C.

1039. Owens, J. S. and Case, G. 0., 1908, Coasterosion and foreshore protection: London, 1054. Ward, H. A., 1948, The use of historical

the St. Bride's Press Ltd., 144 p. surveys in beach erosion studies: U. S.Beach Erosion Board Bull., v. 2, p. 13-16.

1040. Paterson, D. E., 1956, Beach Erosion at Dur-ban, South Africa: U. S. Beach Erosion 1055. Waterways Experiment Station, 1941, Solu-Board Bull., v. 10, p. 11-20. tions of wave action problems: Hydrol.

Ser. Bull., v. 4.

1041. Patton, R. S., 1941, Relation of tide to pro-perty boundaries: Shore and Beach, v. 9, 1056. Waterways Experiment Station, 1941, Wave

p. 35-39. action problems: Hydrol. Ser. Bull., v.4,

1042. Ripley, H. C., 1924, Beach erosion, its 1057. Weatherwax, H. E., 1937, Seashore parkcauses and cure: Am. Assoc. Civil Engi- construction in North Carolina: Shore and

neers Proc., v. 50, p. 13-18. Beach, v. 5, p. 12-17.

1043. Russell, R. C. H., 1960, Coast erosion anddefence: Hydraulic Res. Station, Berk-shire, England, 14 p.

1044. Sawyer, W. L., 1956, Coastal engineering

along the Florida Gulf Coast: Shore andBeach, v. 24,p. 14-16.

42

Ill. B. SPECIFIC ENGINEERING PROBLEMS

1058. Angas, W. M., 1960, Sand by-passing project actual problems and developing plans forfor Shark River Inlet: Am. Soc. Civil Engi- coastal protection: Am. Geophys. Unionneers, Waterways and Harbors Div., v. 86, Trans., v. 35, p. 445-452.paper 2599.

1071. Bruun, P., 1959, Bay-fills and bulkhead lines:1059. Anonymous, 1936, Beach erosion at Kitty Hawk, Florida Eng. and Ind. Exp. Sta. Leaflet

Nags Head, and Oregon Inlet: N.C. House No. 105, v. 13, no. 3, Gainesville.Document No. 155, 74th Congress, IstSession. 1072. Bruun, P., (no date), Impermeable and perme-

able groins: Unpublished Report, Coast.1060. Ayers, J. R., 1952, Seawalls and breakwaters. Eng. Lab., Univ. of Florida. 3 p.

Lessons to be learned from failures: Dock& Harbour, v. 33, p. 181-186. 1073. Bruun, P., Asce, F., and Gerritsen, F.,

1959, Natural by-passing of sand at coastal1061. Beach Erosion Board, 1941, Beach erosion inlets: Am. Soc. Civil Engineers, Water-

study at Coronado, California. Shore and ways and Harbors Div., v. 85, p. 75-107.Beach, v. 10, p. 8-11. 1074. Bruun, P., and Gerritsen, F., 1960, Stability

of coastal inlets: Coastal Engineering,1062. Beach Erosion Board, 1948, Beach and channel Proc. Seventh Conf., p. 386-417.

improvement measures at Atlantic City,New Jersey: U. S. Beach Erosion Board 1075. Bruun, P., Leendertse, J. J., and Cover,Bull., v. 2, p. 7-12. L. W., 1958, Florida's coastal engineer-

ing wave tank: Florida Eng. and Ind. Exp.1063. Beach Erosion Board, 1951, Bypassing littoral Sta. Leaflet No. 99, v. 12, no. 7, Gaines-

drift at a harbor entrance: U. S. Beach ville.Erosion Board Bull., v. 5, p. 1-14.

1076. Caldwell, J. M., 1950, By-passing sand at1064. Beach Erosion Board, Jacksonville District, South Lake Worth Inlet, Florida: Coastal

1948, Experimental steel pile groins, Palm Engineering, Proc. First Conf., p. 320-Beach, Florida: U. S. Beach Erosion 325.Board Tech. Memo. 10.

1077. Carr, J. H., 1951, Mobile breakwaters:1065. Beach Erosion Board, New York District, Coastal Engineering, Proc. Second Conf.,

1949, Sand movement study at Long Beach, p. 281-295.N. J. : U. S. Beach Erosion Board Bull.,v. 3, p. 1-5. 1078. Carruthers, J. N., 1954, A penetrometer for

use on water-covered beaches: Jour.1066. Blackman, B., 1950, Dredging at inlets on Marine Biol. Assoc., v. 33, p. 637-643.

sandy coasts: Coastal Engineering, Proc.First Conf., p. 169-174. 1079. Cavanilles, R. I., and Olano, C. N., 1951,

Generalization of the formula for calcu-1067. Bretschneider, C. L., 1958, Engineering lation of rock full dikes and verification

aspects of hurricane surge: Am. Meteoro- of its coefficients: U. S. Beach Erosionlogical Society, Tech. Conf. on Hurricanes, Board Bull., v. 5, p. 4-24.Proc., Miami, Florida.

1080. Chien, N., 1956, Sediment motion at the1068. Bretting, A. E., 1958, Stable channels: Flor- vicinity of a littoral barrier: U. S. Beach

ida Eng. and Ind. Exp. Sta. Tech. Paper Erosion Board Bull., v. 10, p. 21-31.No. 144, v. 12, no. 7, Gainesville.

1081. Cole, G., 1960, The use of certain plants as1069. Brown, E. I., 1940, Erosion control at stabilizers of marine sediments: Jour.

Wrightsville Beach: Shore & Beach. v. 8, Inst. Water Eng., v. 14, p. 445-453.p. 122-124.

1082. Cox, R. G., 1958, Velocity forces on sub-1070. Bruun, P., 1954, Use of small-scale experi- merged rocks: U. S. Army Eng. Water-

ments with equilibrium profiles in studying ways Experiment Sta., Misc. Paper 2-265.

43

1083. Crooke, R. C., 1956, Re-analysis of existing Beach Erosion Board Tech. Memo. 106.wave force data on model piles: U. S.Beach Erosion Board Tech, Memo. 71. 1096. Hall, W. C. , 1941, A model study of effect

of submerged breakwaters on wave action:1084. Davis, J. H., 1957, Dune formation and Shore and Beach, v. 9, p. 50-55.

stabilization by vegetation and plantings:

U. S. Beach Erosion Board Tech. Memo. 1097. Handin, J. W., and Luadwick, J. C., 1949,101. Accretion of beach sand behind a detached

breakwater: U. S. Beach Erosion Board

1085. Deignan, J. E., 1959, Breakwater at Crescent Tech. Memo. 16.

City, California: Am. Soc. Civil Engineers

Proc., Waterways and Harbors Div., v.85, 1098. Harris, R. L., 1954, Restudy of test-shorepaper 2174. nourishment by offshore deposition of sand,

Long Branch, New Jersey: U. S, Beach

1086. Dorland, G. M., 1940, Equilibrium sand Erosion Board Tech. Memo. 62.

slopes in front of sea walls: Univ. Calif.

M. S. Thesis, 43 p. 1099. Haynes, R. F., 1958, Marine site investiga-tions. Methods of boring, sampling and

1087. Dune Study Group (no date), Facto in evidence, rock drilling: Dock & Harbour, v. 39,

resulting from the reduction of the data p. 145-150.

gathered by the initial field study on Bodie

Island: Cape Hatteras Natl. Seashore Rec. 1100. Hazlett, D. C., 1950, Beach erosion control

Area, Unpub. report. at Cape Hatteras, North Carolina: Geol.Soc. America Bull., v. 49, p. 160.

1088. Escoffier, F. F. and Dolive, W. L., 1954,

Shore protection in Harrison County, Mis- 1101. Hodges, T. K., 1955, Sand by-passing at

sissippi: U. S. Beach Erosion Board Bull., Hillsboro Inlet, Florida: U, S. Beach

v. 8, p. 1-12. Erosion Board Bull., v. 9, p. 1-6.

1089. Feltner, C. E., 1948, Beach erosion in North 1102. Horton, D. F., 1950, Design and construction

Carolina: Dept. Eng. Res., Bull. No. 37, of groins: Coastal Engineering, Proc.

N. C. State College Record, v. 47. First Conf., p. 246-253.

1090. Gesler, E. E., 1951, Economics of coastal 1103. Hoyle, J. W. and King, G. T., 1961, A

structures: Coastal Engineering, Proc. scientific basis for design of groyne sys-

Second Conf., p. 236-242. tems: The Survey & Municipal Engineer,London, v. 120, p. 619-621.

1091. Gilman, C. S., and Myers, V. A., 1961,Hurricane widns for design along the New 1104. Hoyle, J. W. and King, G. T., 1962, Coast

England coast: Am. Soc. of Civil Eng. protection-groyne systems: The SurveyorProc., Waterways and Harbors Div., Municipal Engineer, London, v. 121, p.v. 87, p. 45-65. 575-579.

1092. Hall, J. V., Jr., 1952, Artificially nourished 1105. Hoyle, J. W., and King, G. T., 1962, Groynes

and constructed beaches: U. S. Beach as barriers to movement of beach material:Erosion Board Tech. Memo. 29. The Surveyor Municipal Engineer, London,

v. 121, p. 601-603.

1093. Hall, J. V., Jr., and Herron, J. W., 1950,Test of nourishment of the shore by off- 1106. Hudson, R. Y., and Moore, L. F., 1950, The

shore deposition of sand: U. S. Beach Hydraulic Model as an aid in breakwaterErosion Board Tech. Memo. 17. design: Coastal Engineering, Proc. First

Conf., p. 205-212.

1094. Hall, J. V., Jr., and Jachowski, R. A.,

1964, Concrete block revetment near 1107. Johnson, J. W., Fuchs, R. A., and Morison,

Benedict, Maryland: U. S. Army Corps J. R., 1951, The damping action of sub-

of Engineers, Misc. paper no. 1-64. merged breakwaters: Am. Geophys. UnionTrans., v, 32, p. 704-718.

1095. Hall, M. A., 1958, Laboratory study of

breaking wave forces on piles: U. S. 1108. Johnson, J. W., and Minaker, W. L., 1944,

44

Movements and deposition of sediment in 1122. Mather, B. , 1957, Factors affecting durabilitythe vicinity of debris barriers: Am. Geo- of concrete in coastal structures: U. S.phys. Union Trans. , v. 25, p. 901-905. Beach Erosion Board Tech. Memo. 96.

1109. Kaplan, K., 1952, Effective height of seawalls:U. S. Beach Erosion Board Bull., v. 6,p. 1-18. 1123. Minikin, R. C. R., 1950, Wind, waves and

maritime structures-studies in harbour1110. Kaplan, K., 1952, Notes on determination of making and in the protection of coasts:

stable underwater breakwater slopes: U.S. Griffin, London, 224 p.

Beach Erosion Board Bull., v. 6, p. 20- 22.

1111. Kaplan, K., and Pape, H. E., Jr., 1950, 1124. Munk, W. H. , 1948, Wave action on structures:Design of breakwaters: Coastal Engineer- Am. Inst. Mining Metallurgical Eng., Tech.ing, Proc. First Conf. , p. 213-222. Pub. 2322, p. 1-18.

1112. Kemp, P. H., 1962, A model study of the be- 1125. Myers, H. B., and Theis, A. R., 1956,haviour of beaches and groynes: Inst. Civil Beach erosion control, Grand Isle, Louisi-Engineers Proc., v. 22, p. 191-210. ana: Shore and Beach, v. 24, p. 19-23.

1113. Kidson, C., 1959, The uses and limitations of 1126. Nash, E., 1962, Beach and sand dune erosionvegetation in shore stabilization: Geo- control at Cape Hatteras National Seashore:graphy, v. 44, p. 241-250. U. S. Dept. of the Interior, Nati. Park

Serv. Five Year Review, 1956-1961,1114. Knaps, R. J. , 1950, The action and application unpub. report.

of breakwaters as protective structures onsandy coast: Izvestiya AN Latv. SSSR, no.7. 1127. North Carolina Council of Civil Defense, 1955,

Long range hurricane rehabilitation pro-1115. Knaps, R. J., 1952, Protective structures of ject: State of North Carolina, Raleigh.

the mole type and the movement of sedi-ments along sandy coasts: Izvestiya AN 1128. O'Brien, M. P., and Morison, J. R., 1952,

Latv. SSSR, no. 6. The forces exerted by waves on objects:Am. Geophys. Union Trans., v. 33, p. 32-

1116. Krumbein, W. C., 1957, A method for speci- 38.fication of sand for beach fills: U. S. BeachErosion Board Tech. Memo. 102. 1129. Oosting, H. J. , 1945, Tolerance to salt spray

of plants of coastal dunes: Ecology, v. 26,1117. Lewis, W. H., 1956, The foreshore erosion p. 85-89.

problem of the lower reaches of the Missis-sippi River: Shore and Beach, v. 24, 1130. Oosting, H. J., and Billings, W. D., 1942,p. 13-15. Factors effecting vegetation zonation on

coastal dunes: Ecology, v. 23, p. 131-142.1118. McKee, R., and Schoth, H. A., 1941, Sand

dune control in the United States: Shore 1131. Palmer, R. Q., 1960, Breakwaters in theand Beach, v. 9, p. 42-44. Hawaiian Islands: Am. Soc. Civil Engi-

neers Proc., Waterways Harbors Div.,1119. McLaughlin, W. T., and Brown, R. L., 1943, v. 86, paper 2507.

Controlling coastal sand dunes in the Pacificnorthwest: Shore and B-ach, v. 11, p. 7 - 2 4 . 1132. Petersen, M., 1963, Review of German ex-

perience on coastal protection by groins:1120. MacArthur, A., 1956, Maintenance of the U. S. Beach Erosion Board Bull., v. 17,

Harrison County, Mississippi sloping beach: p. 38-54.Shore and Beach, v. 24, p. 17-19. 1133. Pierson, W. J., Jr., 1951, The accuracy of

present wave forecasting methods with1121. Marlette, J. W., 1954, The breakwater at reference to problems in beach erosion on

Redondo Beach, California, and its effect the New Jersey and Long Island coasts:on erosion and sedimentation: Univ. of U. S. Beach Erosion Board Tech. Memo.Southern Calif., M. S. Thesis, 82 p. 24.

45

1134. Purpura, J. A., 1962, Model studies of p. 21.-29.coastal inlets with special reference to theBakers Haulover inlet model study: Florida 1147. Shirdan, L., 1960, Island harbours and theirEng. and Ind. Exp. Sta. Leaflet No. 150, influence on adjacent shores: Coastal Engi-v. 16, no. 4, Gainesville. neering, Proc. Seventh Conf., p. 808-816.

1135. Ross, C. W., 1955, Laboratory study of 1148. Sibul, 0. J., and Tickner, E. G., 1955, Ashock pressures of breaking waves: U. S. model study of the run-up of wind-generatedBeach Erosion Board Tech. Memo. 59. waves on levees with slopes of 1:3 and 1:6:

U. S. Beach Erosion Board Tech. Memo. 67.1136. Boss, C. W., 1957, Model tests on a triple-

bulkhead type of floating breakwater: U.S. 1149. Sibul, 0. J., and Tickner, E. G., 1956, ModelBeach Erosion Board Tech. Memo. 99. study of overtopping of wind-generated waves

on levees with slopes of 1:3 and 1:6: U. S.1137. Ross, C. W., 1959, Large-scale tests of Beach Erosion Board Tech. Memo. 80.

wave forces on pilings (preliminary report):U. S. Beach Erosion Board Tech. Memo. 1150. Sorensen, T., 1960, The development of coast111. profiles on a receding coast protected by

groynes: Coastal Engineering, Proc. Seventh1138. Savage, R. P., 1957, Sand bypassing at Port Conf., p. 836-846.

Hueneme, California: U. S. Beach ErosionBoard Tech. Memo. 92. 1151. Stratton, A. C., 1943, Reclaiming North Caro-

lina banks: Jour. Am. Shore and Beach1139. Savage, R. P., 1959, Laboratory study of the Preserv. Assn. , v. 18.

effect of groins on the rate of littoraltransport: equipment development and 1152. U. S. Army Engineer District, Wilmington Corpsinitial tests: U. S. Beach Erosion Board of Engineers, 1930, Carolina beach and vi-Tech. Memo. 114. cinity, N. C. - Combined survey report of

1140. Savage, R. P., 1962, A graphical method for hurricanes and cooperative beach erosion

checking the design height of structures control study, Carolina Beach, N.C.: Sub-

subjected to wave run-up: U. S. Beach mitted in Compliance with Public Law 71

Erosion Board Bull., v. 15, p. 1-5. (84th Cong. 1st Sess., Adopted June 15, 1955)and Section 2 of the River and Harbor Act,

1141. Savage, R. P., 1962, Experimental dune build- Approved July 3, 1930, as amended and sup-

ing, North Carolina Outer Banks: Shore plemented, 2 v.

and Beach, v. 30, p. 23-28.

1142. Saville, T., Jr., 1955, Laboratory data on 1153. U. S. Army Engineer District, Wilmington,wave run-up and overtopping on shore Corps of Engineers, 1962, North Carolinawavru-up: ad oBeaErtoion hor Coastal Areas: Storm of 6-8 March 1962Tech. Memo. 64. (Ash Wednesday Storm): Final Post-Flood

Report (RCS ENGCW-O-2), Wilmington,

1143. Saville, T., Jr., 1961, Sand transfer beach North Carolina.

control and inlet improvements, Fire IslandInlet to Jones Beach, New York: Coastal 1154. U. S. Army Engineer District, Wilmington,Engineering, v. 7, p. 785-807. Corps of Engineers, 1963, Combined hurri-

cane and beach erosion control report, N. C.:1144. Saville, T. , Jr., Caldwell, J. M., and Information called for by Senate Resolution

Simmons, H. B., 1957, Preliminary report: 148, 85th Congress, Adopted January 28,Laboratory study of the effect of an uncon- 1958, Wilmington, North Carolina.trolled inlet on the adjacent beaches: U.S.Beach Erosion Board Tech. Memo. 94. 1155. U. S. Congress, 1948, North Carolina shore

line, beach erosion study: House Doc. 763,1145. Shepard, F. P., 1943, Shoreline erosion at La 80th Cong., 2n Seas., p. 20.

Jolla, California: Jour. Civil Engineering,v. 13, p. 80-82. 1156. U. S. Department of the Army, Corps of Engi-

neers, 1954, Study of Point Magu to San1146. Shigley, C. M., 1951, Engineering problems Pedro breakwater: 83rd Cong., 2nd Session

of coastal waters: Tex. Jour. Si., v. 3, House Doc. No. 277, 170 p.

46

1157. Vesper, W. H., 1961, Behavior of beach fill 1160. Watts, G. M. , 1959, Behavior of beach filland borrow area at Prospect Beach, West and borrow at Harrison County, Mississippi:Haven, Connecticut: U. S. Beach Erosion U. S. Beach Erosion Board Tech. Memo.Board Tech. Memo. 127. 107.

1158. Waterways Experiment Station, 1949, Break- 1161. Watts, G. M., 1959, Behavior of beach fill atwater stability, model investigation, above Virginia Beach, Virginia: U. S. Beachsite: W. E. S. Tech. Memo. 2-296. Erosion Board Tech. Memo. 113.

1159. Watts, G. M., 1956, Behavior of beach fill at 1162. Wiegel, R. L., 1959, Sand by-passing atOcean City, New Jersey: U. S. Beach Santa Barbara, California: Am. SOc. CivilErosion Board Tech. Memo. 177. Engineers Proc., v. 85.

IV. QUANTITATIVE ANALYSIS OF DATA

IV. A. DIRECTLY RELATED TO BEACHES OR COASTS

1163. Garrison, W. L., 1956, Applicability of 1171. Krumbein, W. C., 1963, A geological process-statistical inference to geographical re- response model for analysis of beach pheno-search: Geog. Rev., v. 46, p. 427-429. mena: U. S. Beach Erosion Board Bull.,

v. 17, p. 1-15.1164. Imbrie, J., 1963, Factor and vector analysis

programs for analyzing geologic data:Northwestern Univ., TR. 6, Evanston, Ill. 1172. Krumbein, W. C., 1963, Confidence intervals

on low-order trend surfaces: Jour. Geo-1165. Krumbein, W. C., 1954, Applications of sta- physical Research, v. 68.

tistical methods to sedimentary rocks:Jour. Am. Statistical Assoc., v. 49, p.51-66. 1173. Krumbein, W. C., and Miller, R. L., 1953,

Design of experiments for statistical analy-1166. Krumbein, W. C., 1959, Experimental design sis of geological data: Jour. Geology,

in the earth sciences: Am. Geophys. Union v. 61, p. 510-522.Trans., v. 36, p. 1-11.

1174. Krumbein, W. C., and Miller, R. L., 1954,1167. Krumbein, W. C., 1959, The "sorting out" of A note on transformation of data for analy-

geological variables illustrated by regres- sis of variance: Jour, Geol., v. 62,sion analysis of factors controlling beach p. 192-193.firmness: Jour. Sed. Petrology, v. 29,p. 575-587. 1175. Miller, R. L. , 1956, Trend surfaces: Their

application to analysis and description of1168. Krumbein, W. C., 1959, Trend surface environments of sedimentation: Jour.

analysis of contour-type maps with irregu- Geology, v. 64, p. 425-446.lar control-point spacing: Jour. Geophys.Res., v. 64, p. 823-834. 1176. Miller, R. L., and Kahn, J. S., 1962,

Statistical analysis in the geological sciences:1169. Krumbein, W. C., 1960, The "geological pop- New York, John Wiley & Sons, 483 p.

ulation" as a framework for analyzingnumerical data in geology: Liverpool and 1177. Seiwell, H. R., 1949, The principles of timeManchester Geol. Jour., v. 2, p. 341-368. series analysis applied to ocean wave data:

Natl. Acad. Sci. Proc. , v. 35, p. 518-528.1170. Krumbein, W, C., 1961, The analysis of ob-

servational data from natural beaches: 1178. Seiwell, H. R., 1950, Problems in statisticalU. S. Beach Erosion Board Tech. Memo. analysis of geophysical time series:130. Science, v. 112, p. 243-246,

47

1179. Strahler, A. N., 1954, Statistical analysis in Geographers Annals, v. 46, p. 275.geomorphic research: Jour. Geology,v. 62, p. 1-25. 1181. Whitten, E. H. T., 1964, Process-response

models in geology: Geol. Soc. of America1180. Shrahler, A. N., 1956, Basic principles of Bull. , v. 75, p. 455-464.

quantitative geomorphology: Assoc. Am.

IV. B. INDIRECT APPLICATION TO BEACHES OR COASTS

1182. Alder, H. L., and Roessler, E. B., 1962, p. 87-105.Introduction to probability and statistics;San Francisco, W. H. Freemen and Corn- 1194. Garrison, W. L., 1956, Estimates of thepany, 289 p. parameters of spatial interaction: Regional

Science Assoc., Papers and Proc. , v. 2,

1183. Allen, P., and Krumbein, W. C., 1962, p. 280-288.Secondary trend components in the topAshdown Pebble Bed, a case history: 1195. Grant, F., 1957, A problem in the analysis of

Jour. Geology, v. 70, p. 507-538. geophysical data: Geophysics, v. 22,p. 309-343.

1184. Bunge, W., 1962, Theoretical geography:Lund, Sweden: Roy. Univ. Lund, Studies in 1196. Gregory, S., 1963, Statistical methods and theGeography, Series C, General and Math. geographer: Cambridge, England, W.Geog., no. 1. Heffer & Sons, Ltd., 240 p.

1185. Chayes, F., and Suzuki, Y., 1963, Geological 1197. Griffiths, J. C., 1955, Statistics for the des-

contours and trend surfaces: Jour. Petrol- cription of frequency distributions: Com-

ogy, v. 4, p. 307-312. pass, v. 32, p. 329-346.

1186. Cochran, W. G., 1963, Sampling techniques: 1198. Griffiths, J. C., 1958, Geometrics in petro-New York, John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 413 p. leum petrography: Producer Monthly,

v. 22, p. 40.

1187. Cochran, W. G., Mosteller, F., and Tukey,J. W., 1954, Principles of sampling: Jour. 1199. Hansen, M. H., Hurwitz, W. N., and Madow,Am. Statistical Assoc., v. 49, p. 13-35. W. G., 1953, Sample survey methods and

theory, Vol. 1: New York, John Wiley &

1188. Cramer, H., 1946, Mathematical methods of Sons, Inc., 638 p.statistics: Princeton, N. J., PrincetonUniversity Press, 575 p. 1200. Hoel, P. G., 1954, Introduction to mathemati-

cal statistics: New York: John Wiley &1189. Emery, J. R., and Griffiths, J. C., 1954, Sons, Inc., 331 p.

Differentiation of oil-bearing from barrensediments by quantitative petrographic analy- 1201. Kendall, M. G., 1957, A course in multivari-

sis: Penn. State Univ., Mineral Indus. Expt. ate analysis: London, Charles Griffin &

Sta. Bull. 62, p. 76-80. Co., Ltd., 185 p.

1190. Fisher, R. A., 1942, The design of experi- 1202. King, L. J., 1961, A multivariate analysis of

ments: London, Oliver & Boyd, Ltd. ,236 p. the spacing of urban settlements in theUnited States: Assoc. Am. Geographers

1191. Fisher, R. A., 1948, Statistical methods for Annals, v. 51, p. 222-233.

the research worker: London, Oliver &Boyd, Ltd., 354 p. 1203. Krumbein, W. C., 1962, The computer in

geology: Science, v. 136, p. 1087-1092.1192. Freund, J. E., 1952, Modern elementary

statistics: Englewood Cliffs, N. J., 1204. Krumbein, W. C., and Lieblein, J., 1956,Prentic-Hall, Inc., 418 p. Geologic application of extreme-value

methods to interpretation of cobbles and1193. Fruchter, B., 1954, Introduction to factor boulders in gravel deposits: Am. Geophys.

analysis: New York: D. Van Nostrand Co. , Union Trans., v. 37, p. 313-319.

48

1205. Krumbeln, W. C., and Slack, H. A., 1956, p. 1-103.Statistical analysis of low-level radio-activity of Pennsylvanian black fissile shale 1218. Peguy, Ch. P. , 1957, Elements de statistiquein Illinois: Geol. Soc. America Bull., appliquee aux sciences geographiques:v. 67, p. 739-762. Centre de Documentation Universitaire,

5 place de Ia Sorbonne, Paris.1206. Li, J. C. R., 1961, Introduction to statistical

inference: Ann Arbor, Michigan, Edwards 1219. Ralston, A., 1960, Mathematical methods forBrothers, Inc., 568 p. digital computers: New York, John Wiley

and Sons, 293 p.

1207. Mackay, J. R., 1958, Chi square as a tool forregional studies: Assoc. Am. Geographers 1220. Robinson, A. H., Lindberg, J. B., andAnnals, v. 48, p. 164. Brinkman, L. W., 1961, A correlation

and regression analysis applied to rural1208. Mackay, J. R., and Berry, B. J. L., 1959, form population densities in the great

Comments on the use of Chi square: Assoc. plains: Assoc. Am. Geographers Annals,Am. Geographers Annals, v. 49, p. 89. v. 51, p. 211-221.

1221. Roder, W., and Berry, B. J. L., 1960,1209. Mandelbaum, H., 1963, Statistical and geo- Direct factor analysis of urban flood plain

logical implications of trend mapping with data: Univ. Chicago, Dept. Geog.non orthogonal polynomials: Jour. Geo-physical Research, v. 68, p. 505-520. 1222. Rosander, A. C., 1951, Elementary principles

of statistics: New York, D. van Nostrand,1210. Melton, M. A., 1958, Correlation structure 693 p.

of morphometric properties of drainagesystems and their controlling agents: Jour. 1223. Snedecor, G. W., 1956, Statistical methods:Geology, v. 66, p. 442-460. Ames, Iowa, The Iowa State College Press,

534 p.1211. Melton, M.A. , 1958, Geometric properties of

mature drainage systems and their repre- 1224. Stevens, B. H., 1960, A review of the litera-sentation in E phase space: Jour. ture on linear methods and models forGeology, v. 6A, p. 35-56. spatial analysis: Jour. Am. Institute of

Planners, v. 26, p. 253-259.1212. Miller, R. L., and Olson, E. C., 1954, The

statistical stability of quantitative proper- 1225. Strahler, A. N., 1952, Quantitative geomorph-ties as a fundamental criterion for the study ology of erosional landscapes: Congr. Geol.of environments: Jour. Geology, v. 62, Int., Algeria, Sec. 15, p. 341-354.p. 376-387.

1226. Strahler, A. N., 1956, Quantitative slope1213. Mode, E. B., 1959, Elements of statistics: analysis: Geol. Soc. America Bull., v. 67,

Englewood Cliffs, N. J., Prentice-Hall, p. 571-596.Inc. , 377 p.

1227. Warntz, W., and Neft, D., 1960, Contributions1214. Moroney, M. J., 1962, Facts from figures: to a statistical methodology for areal distri-

Baltimore, Maryland, Penguin Books, butions: Jour. of Regional Science, v. 2,472. p. p. 45-66.

1215. Olson, E. C., and Miller, R. L., 1951, A 1228. Whitten, E. H. T., 1963, A surface-fittingmathematical model applied to study of the program suitable for testing geologicalevolution of species: Evolution, v. 5, models which involve areally-distributedp. 256-338. data: Tech. Report No. 2, ONR Task No.

389-135, contract no. NR 1228(26), Office1216. Olson, E. C., and Miller, R. L., 1958, of Naval Res. , Geography Branch, North-

Morphological intergration: Chicago, western Univ., Evanston, Ill.Univ. Chicago Press, 317 p.

1229. Wong, S. T., 1963, A multivariate statistical1217. Peguy, Ch. P., 1948, Introduction a l'emploi model for predicting mean annual flood in

des methodes statistiques en geographie New England: Assoc. Am. Geographersphysique; Rev. Geogr. Alpine, v. 36, Annals, v. 53, p. 298-311.

49

1230. Wood, W. F., and Snell, J. B., 1957, The Res. Study Rept. EA-8, Quartermaster Res.dispersion of geomorphic data around mea- and Devel. Center, Natick, Mass.

sures of central tendency and its application:

V. BIBLIOGRAPHIES AND OTHER SOURCE MATERIALS

V.A. REFERENCE BOOKS

1231. Barnes, H., 1959, Oceanography and MarineBiolgy;a bok f tchnque: Nw Yrk, 1244. King, C. A. m., 1962, Edge of the Sea: inBiology; a book of techniques: New York, O eie yG .R ecn odx

Mac~lla, 21 p.Oceans (edited by G. E. R. Deacon, Londo*MacMillan, 218 p.

1245. Krumbein, W. C., and Sloss, L. L., 1963,

1232. Defant, A., 1961, Physical Oceanography, v. 2: ratigraphy and s Sa Fran-New orkPergmonPres, 59 p.Stratigraphy and Sedimentation: San Fran-

New York, Pergamon Press, 598 P. cso .H ree,60pcisco, W. H. Freemen, 600 p.

1233. Dietrich, G., 1963, General oceanography: 1246. Kuenen, Ph. H. , 1950, Marine geology: NewNew York, Interscience Publications, 558 York, John Wiley and S , Inc., 568 p.

1234. Emery, K. 0., 1960, The sea off southern 1247. Lobeek, A. K., 1939, Geomorphology, anCalifornia: New York, John Wiley and , introduction to the study of landscapes:Inc., 366 p. New York, McGraw-Hill, 731 p.

1235. Gorsline, D. S., Editor, 1962, Natl. Coastal

and Shallow Water Research Proc., First 1248. Mariner, H. A., 1930, The sea: New York,Conf., 1962. D. Appleton and Co., 312 p.

1236. Government-Industry Oceanography, 1961, 1249. Martonne, Emmanuel de, 1926, Traiti de

Instrumentation Symposium, Wash. D. C., geographie physique: v. 2, Le Relief du

Miller-Columbia Reporting Service, 482 p. sol: Paris, A. Colin, p. 1011-1039.

1237. Gresswell, R. K., 1957, The physical 1250. Ommanney, F. D., 1949, The ocean: London,

geography of beaches and coastlines: Oxford Univ. Press, 238 p.

Hutton Educational Publications, Ltd.1251. Pettijohn, F. J., 1957, Sedimentary rocks:

1238. Guilcher, A., 1954, Morphologie littorale et New York, Harper & Bros., 718 p.

sous-marine: Paris, Presses Univ.France, 216 p. 1252. Progress in Oceanography, 1963, Yearbook,

v. 1, Oxford, New York, Pergamon Press.

1239. Guilcher, A. 1958, Coastal and submarinemorphology: Linden, Methuen, New York, 1253. Proudman, A. J., 1953, Dynamical oceanogra-

John Wiley, 274 p. phy: New York, John Wiley and son, 409 p.

1240. Gulliver, F. P., 1899, Shoreline topography: 1254. Putnam, W. C., and others, 1960, Natural

Am. Acad. Arts and Science Proc., v. 34, coastal environments of the world: Univ. of

p. 152-258. Calif. , Los Angeles, 140 p.

1241. International Oceanographie Congress Proc., 1255. Russell, R. C.H., and MacMillan, B. H., 1952,1959, New York, 654 p. Waves and tides: London, Hutchinson, 346 p.

1242. Johnson, D. W., 1919, Shore processes and 1256. Scheidegger, A. E., 1961, Theoretical geo-

shoreline development: New York, J. Wiley morphology: Englewood Cliffs, New Jersey:

& Sons, Inc., 584 p. Prentice-Hall, 333 p.

1243. King, C. A. M., 1959, Beaches and coast: 1257. Sears, M., 1961, Oceanography: Am. Assoc.

London, E. Arnold, 403 p. Advance. Science, Publ. No. 67, Washing-

50

ton, D. C., 654 p. 1263. Thornbury, W. D., 1956, Principles ofgeomorphology: New York, John Wiley &

1258. Shaler, N. S., 1892, Sea beaches: Scribners Sons, 618 p.Mag., v. 11, 762 p.

1264. Trask, P. D., 1950, Applied sedimentation:1259. Shaler, N. S., 1894, Sea and Land, New York, New York, John Wiley & Sons, 707 p.

C. Scribner's Sons, 252 p.1265. Von Arx, W. S., 1962, An introduction to

1260. Shepard, F. P., 1948, Submarine geology: physical oceanography: Reading,Mass.,New York, Harper and Bros. , 348 p. Addison and Wesley Pub. Co., 422 p.

1261. Steers, J. A., 1953, The sea coast: London, 1266. Williams, J., 1962, Oceanography: Boston,Collins, New Nat. Ser., 276 p. Little and Brown, 242 p.

1262. Sverdrup, H. V., Fleming, R., and Johnson, 1267. Williams, W. W., 1960, Coastal changes:M. W., 1942, The oceans: New York, London, Routledge and Kegan Paul Ltd.,Prentice Hall, Inc. , 1987 p. 212 p.

V.B. OTHER BIBLIOGRAPHIES

1268. Anderson, M., 1963, A working bibliography Calif., Eng. Foundation Tech. Rept. 57,of mathematical geography: Michigan 370 p.Inter-Univ. Commun. Math. Geog. Disc.Paper No. 2. 1277. Cuellar, M. P., and A. G. U. Committee,

1953, Annotated bibliography on Tsunamis:1269. Beach Erosion Board, 1962, List of contents for U. S. Beach Erosion Board Tech. Memo.

proceedings of coastal engineering conference. 30.U. S. Beach Erosion Board Ann. Bull., v.16, p. 36-63. 1278. Geyer, R. A., 1948, Annotated bibliography

of marine geophysical and geological sur-1270. Bibliography and Index of Geology exclusive of veys: Geol. Soc. America Bull., v. 59,

North America: Geological Society of p. 671-696.America.

1279. Haferkorn, H. E., 1929, Coast changes,1271. Bibliography of North American Geology: Bibliography: Chief of Engineers, U. S.

Geological Society of America. Army, Fort Humphreys, Va., The Engi-neering School.

1272. Clayton, K. M., 1963, A bibliography ofBritish Geomorphology: The British 1280. Haferkorn, H. E., 1929, Sand movement,Geomorph. Research Group, London, beaches, and kindred subjects, a bibli-George Philip and Son Ltd., 211 p. ography: Engineering School Library,

Office of Chief of Engineers, U. S. Army,1273. Coastal Studies Institute, Louisiana State Uni- Fort Humphreys, Va., 114 p.

versity, 1960, International geographicalunion commission on coastal sedimentation 1281. Hedgpeth, J. W., 1953, A preliminary bibli-bibliography 1955-1958: Coastal Studies ography of books on the seashore, ocean-Institute, Baton Rouge. ography, and related subjects: Scripps

Inst. Oceanography, SIO Ref. 53-13, 69 p.1274. Consiglio Nazionale Della Richerche, Italy,

1950, Bibliographia Oceanographica (1946): 1282. McGill, J. T., 1960, Selected bibliography ofv. 19, 123 p. coastal geomorphology of the world: Uni-

versity of California, Los Angeles.1275. Corps of Engineers, U. S. Army, 1959, Bibli-

ography on tidal hydraulics: Committee on 1183. Military Hydrology Research & DevelopmentTidal Hydraulics Report No. 2. Branch, U. S. Army Engineers, 1957,

Selected references on military hydrology:1276. Crooke, R. C., and others, 1953, Inshore Mil. Hydro. Bull. 8, Dept. of Army Res.

survey, San Francisco Bay: Berkeley, and Devel. Project 8-97-10-003, 25 p.

51

1284. Morgan. J. P. , 1958, A bibliography of recent v. 119, p. 92-96.publications on oceanography: The CoastalStudies Institute, Louisiana State Univer- 1287. Terry, R. D., 1955, Bibliography of marinesity, Contribution No. 58-2. geology and oceanography, California

coast: San Francisco, Calif. Div. of Mines,1285. State Board of Conservation, Div. of Water Spec. Rept. 44, 131 p.

Survey and Research, 1952, Information onbeach protection in Florida - Bibliography: 1288. Williams, L., 1937, Classification and select-State of Florida, Tallahassee, Florida, 52 p. ed bibliography of the surface textures of

sedimentary fragments: Natl. Res. Corn.1286. Steers, J. A., 1953, Recent papers on the Ann. Rept. 1936-37, Rept. Comm. Sed.,

coast of England and Wales: Geog. Jour., p. 114-128.

V. C. PERIODICALS

1289. American Association of Petroleum Geologists, 1303. Geographical Review, American GeographicalBulletin, Tulsa, Oklahoma. Society, New York.

1290. American Geophysical Union (National Research 1304. Geographische Gesellschaft, in Wien, Fest-Council), Transactions. Washington, D. C. schrift zur Hudertjahrfeier, Mitteilungen.

1291. American Journal of Science, New Haven, 1305. Geography, Geographical Assoc., QuarterlyConnecticut. Jour., Sheffield, England.

1292. Annals, Association of American Geographers, 1306. Geological Society of America, BulletinLawrence, Kansas. Memoirs; Proceedings, New York.

1293. Australian Geographer (Geographical Society of 1307. Geological Society of Australia, Journal, Ade-New South Wales), Sydney. laide.

1294. Australian Journal of Science, Sydney. 1308. Geological Society of Glasgow, Transactions,Glasgow.

1295. Annual Bulletin and Technical Memo. of theBeach Erosion Board. 1309. Geological Society of Japan, Journal, Tokyo.

1296. California, University, Publications in Geologi- 1310. Geological Society of London, Proceedings;cal Sciences, Berkeley and Los Angeles. Quarterly Journal, London.

1297. Conferences on Coastal Engineering, 1st vol. 1311. Geomorphological Abstracts, London School of1950, Berkeley, Calif. Council on Wave Economics, London.Research.

1312. Geoscience Abstracts, American Geological1298. Contributions of California, University of, Institute, Washington, D. C.

Scripps Institute of Oceanography, TheLibrary, Scripps Institute of Oceanography, 1313. Institut Ocanographique, Annales, Paris.La Jolla, Calif.

1314. Institute of British Geographers, Publication,1299. Deep-Sea Research, London. Transactions and Papers, London.

1300. Geografiska Annaler (Svenska Saalskapet for 1315. International Hydrographic .Review, Qual desAntropologi och Geografi), Stockholm. estats-Unis, Monte-Carlo, Monacco.

1301. Geographica, Uppsala, Universitet, Geograf- 1316. International Journal of Marine Geology, Geo-iska Institution, Skrifter. chemistry, and Geophysics, Martinus

Nifhoff, Hague, Netherlands.1302. Geographical Journal, Royal Geographical

Society, London. 1317. Journal of Sedimentary Petrology, Tulsa,

52

Oklahoma. 1327. Shore and Beach, Journal of the AmericanShore and Beach Preservation Assoc.,

1318. Louisiana State University, Coastal Studies New Orleans, La.Institute, Technical Reports, Baton Rouge.

1328. Texas Agricultural and Mechanical College,1319. National Research Council Committee on Shore- Publications of the, Dept. of Oceanography,

line Investigations, Washington, D. C. , College Station, Texas.Pub. by National Research Council of theNational Academy of Science. 1329. U. S. Dept. of the Army, Chief of Engineers,

Beach Erosion Board, Technical Memo-1320. Oceanographic Institutions Contributions, randums, Annual Bulletins, and Technical

Woods Hole, Mass. Reports, Washington, D. C. (also listedas number 1295.)

1321. Professional Geographer, Association ofAmerican Geographers, Washington, D.C. 1330. U. S. Geological Survey, Bulletin; Professional

Paper, Washington, D. C.1322. Revue de GCographie physique et de G~ologie

dynamique, Paris. 1331. U. S. Govt. Research Reports, Office of Tech.Services, U. S. Dept. of Commerce,

1323. Revue de GComorphologie Dynamique, Paris. Wash. 25, D. C.

1324. Revue gneral de l'Hydraulique, Paris. 1332. Washington State University, Publications inoceanography, U. of Wash. Press, Seattle,

1325. Science, American Association for the Advance- Wash.ment of Science, Washington, D. C.

1333. Zeitschrift fUr Geomorphologie--Annals of1326. Sedimentology, International Association of Geomorphology--Annales de Ggomorpholo-

Sedimentologists, Wageningen, Netherlands. gie, Berlin.

V.D. MISCELLANEOUS

1334. Hidaka, K., 1953, Japanese research in physi- 1339. Office of Naval Research and NRC Committeecal oceanography, 1948-1950: U. S. Beach on Geography, 1954, Coastal geographyErosion Board Bull., v. 7, p. 26-35. conference: Department of the Navy,

Washington, D. C.1335. Marine Institute of the University of Georgia,

1959, Salt Marsh Conf. Proc., March 1958, 1340. Russell, R. J., Editor, 1959, Second CoastalSapelo Island. Conference: Coastal Studies Institute,

Louisiana State University, sponsored by1336. Morgan, J. P., 1959, Activities and research the Geography Branch, Office of Naval

results of the Coastal Studies Institute in- Research and the Natl. Acad. Sci.cluding a bibliography of publications per-taining to the Mississippi River delta and 1341. Shuster, C. N., Jr., Daiber, F. C., and Frey,coastal Louisiana: Coastal Geography, K. P. H., 1961, Shallow Water ResearchProc. Second Conf., Coastal Studies Inst., at the University of Delaware: Coastal andLouisiana State University, Baton Rouge. Shallow Water Research Conference.

1337. National Research Council, 1961, Panel on 1342. Steers, J. A., 1956, The coast as a field forcoastal geography: Sponsored by NAS-NRC physiographical research: Inst. BritishCommittee on Geography, Advisory to the Geog. Trans. and Papers, Pub. 22, p. 1-13.Office of Naval Research, WashingtonNational Academy of Sciences, NationalResearch Council, 17 p.

1338. O'Brien, M. P., Johnson, J. W., and Wiegel,R. L., Glossary of terms and standardsymbols, Manual of Amphibious Ocean-ography.

53

PART TWO AUTHOR REFERENCES

(Numbers refer to entries in the bibliography, not page numbers, Pub-lications by two or more authors are indexed by the first author only. )

A Bigelow, H. B., 758 Chamberlain, J. L., 75Abdullah, A. J., 892 Bird, E. C. F., 4, 42 Champion, D. L., 647Abecasis, D. K., 539 Blackman, B., 1066 Chang, S. S., 938Agnew, R., 873 Blanton, S. L., Jr., 200 Charney, J. G., 648Aider, H. L., 1182 Blood, H. K. W., 970 Charnock, H., 649, 874Allen, J., 216, 623 Boos, M. F., 310 Chase, J., 875Allen, P., 1183 Borgman, L. E., 631 Chayes, F., 1185American Society of Civil Engi- Boucher, J. W., 632 Chesterman, W. D., 291

neers, Northwestern Section, Bowden, K. F., 633 Chien, N., 437, 830, 1080430 Bowman, J. G., 61 Chute, N. E., 76

Anderson, M., 1267 Boy6, M., 180 Clarke, J. W., 313Angas, W. M., 1058 Branner, J. C., 181 Clayton, K. M., 1272Anonymous, 91, 495, 540, 575, Brennan, J. F., 852 Clements, T., 314

965, 966, 967, 1059 Bretschneider, C. L., 71, 634, Cline, I. M., 895, 896Antonini, G. A., 1 635, 636, 637, 638, 639, 640, Coastal Engineering Staff, 988,Apfel, E. T., 420 641, 642, 643, 644, 759, 760, 989, 990Arlman, J. J., 576, 577 761, 893, 894, 1067 Coastal Studies Institute, L.S.U.,Arnborg, L., 431, 432 Bretting, A. E., 1068 1272Arthur, R. S., 624, 625, 826, 827 Briggs, R. D., 360 Cochran, W. G., 1186, 1187Athearn, W. D., 2 Brown, A. P., 219 Cole, G., 1081Atwood, W. G., 217 Brown, C. V., 182 Coleman, C. G., 277Aufrere, L., 51 Brown, C. W., 72 Conner, W. C., 897Ayers, J. R., 1060 Brown, E. I., 62, 971, 972, 973, Converse, J. B., 991Ayrton, H., 218 974, 975, 1069 Cooper, A. W., 6

Brown, R. C., 63 Cooper, W. S., 54, 55B Bruun, P., 5, 73, 98, 99, 543, Corkan, R. N., 898

Babcock, B. A., 564 578, 976, 977, 978, 979, 980, Cornish, V., 101, 102, 221Bagnold, R. A., 52, 92, 433, 434, 981, 982, 983, 1070, 1071, Corps of Engineers, 438, 939

496, 497, 626, 919, 920 1072, 1073, 1074, 1075 Corrsin, S., 439Bajorunas, L., 541 Bryan, K., 53 Coultas, H. W., 544Baldwin, E. J., 307 Bryson, D. K., 381 Cox, R. A., 940Bamesberger, J. G., 68 Bucher, W. H., 220 Cox, R. G., 1082Barber, N. F., 627, 930, Bullard, F. M., 311, 312 Cramer, H., 1188Barnes, F. A., 3, 69 Bunge, W., 1184 Crease, J., 650Barnes, H., 287, 1231 Burnside, W., 762 Crickmore, M. J., 580, 581Bascom, W. N., 93, 94, 95, 178, Burt, W. V., 645 Crooke, R. C., 1083, 1276

435, 628, 828 Cuellar, M. P., 1277Bates, C. C., 629 C Currier, L. W., 992Beach Erosion Board, 70, 96, 97, Caldwell, J. M., 74, 100, 499, Curry, J. R., 382, 383

179, 199, 275, 276, 288, 289, 500, 579, 829, 935, 984, 985,290, 308, 498, 542,630, 757, 986, 1076 D931, 932, 933, 934, 968, 969, Carr, J. H., 763, 1077 Dapples, E. C., 2221061, 1062, 1063, 1064, 1065, Carruthers, J. N., 936, 937, 1078 Darbyshire, J., 651, 652, 653, 8991269 Carter, A. C., 436 Darrow, W. E., 315

Beal, M. A., 309 Cartwright, D. E., 646 Darwin, G. H., 223Bell, H. S., 565 Case, G. 0., 987 Davidson, J., 582Belly, Pierre-Yves, 921 Cavanilles, R. I., 1079 Davies, J. L., 43, 44

55

Davis, J. H., 1084 Fisher, R. L., 507 Hansen, H. J., 1009Davis, W. M., 853 Flinsch, H. V. N., 668 Hansen, M. H., 1199Deacon, G. E. R., 654, 655 Folk, R. L., 320 Hantzschel, W., 327Dearduff, R. F., 656, 657 Folsom, R. G., 669, 944 Hardin, J. R., 1010Defant, A., 1232 Ford, E. F., 924 Harris, R. A., 855Deignan, J. E., 1085 Forrest, D. R., 833, 945 Harris, R. L., 1098Demarest, D. F., 224 Forrest, G., 583 Haynes, R. F., 1099Dememtiev, M. A., 440 Forster, G. R., 294 Hazlett, D. C., 1100Dent, E. J., 993 Foxworth, R. D., 321 Hedgpeth, J. W., 1281Diephuis, J. G. H. R., 658, 764 Freund, J. E., 1192 Heezen, B. C., 46Dietrich, G., 1233 Fridman, R., 508 Hela, I., 675Dietz, R. S.., 278 Friedman, G. M., 322, 386 Hennebique, J. J., 856Disney, L. P., 876 Friedrichs, 767 Hersey, J. B., 295Division of Water Survey, 994 Fruchter, B., 1193 Hidaka,K., 774, 1334Dobbie, C. H., 995 Fuchs, R. A., 670 Harris, D. L., 903, 904Dobbs, P. H., 501 Haurwitz, 1B., 672, 673, 674Dobroklonskiy, S. B., 659 G Hiranandanm, M. G., 587Doeglas, D. J., 384 Garrison, W. L., 1163, 1194 Hite, M. D., 77Donn, W. L., 660 Gerhardt, J. R., 946 Hjulstr~m, F., 446, 447Dorland, G. M., 1086 Germain, J., 584 Hodges, T. K., 1101Dorrestein, R., 900 Gerritsen, I. F., 1001 Hoel, P. G., 1200Drane, B. S., 64 Gesler, E. E., 1002, 1090 Holme, N. A., 296Draper, L., 661, 941 Geyer, R. A., 1278 Horikawa, D., 925Dubrow, M. D., 996 Gibert, A., 585 1orrer, P. L., 905Dune Study Group, 1087 Gilbert, G. K., 10, 237, 238 Horton, D. F., 1011, 1012, 1102Dunham, J. W., 831 Gilluly, J., 11 Hough, J. L., 297Dunn, G. E., 901 Gilman, C. S., 1091 Hough, S. 3., 448Durietz, T., 316 Glenn, A. H., 1003 Hours, R., 588, 589Duvivier, J., 997 Glossop, R.. 323 Housley, J.G., 775

Goldberg, E. D., 586 Howard, A. D., 78E Gorsline, D. S,, 324. 1235 Hoyle, J. W., 110, 1013, 1014,

Eaton, R. 0., 103 Government-lndustry Oceanography 1015, 1016, 1103, 1104, 1105Eagleson, P. S., 201, 502, 503, 1236 Hoyt, J. H., 47, 23-1. 240

662, 765 Graham, H. E., 902 Hsu, K. J., 329Eckart, C. H., 663, 664 Grant, F., 1195 Hudson, R. Y., 1106

Edmondson, W. T., 832 Grant, U. S., 12, 45, 106, 107, Hunt, A. R., 241, 242Egorov, E. N., 7, 104, 202, 203, 108, 109, 509, 510, 768, 1004 Hunter, R. C., 1017

292, 922, 923 Granthem, K. N. ,769 Hydraulic Research Station, 590,Ehring, H., 665 Gregory, S., 1196 591Einstein, H. A., 317, 441, 442, Gresswell, R. K., 1237

443, 444, 445, 504 Griffiths, J. C., 325, 387, 388, IEmery, J. R., 1189 389, 390, 391, 1197, 1198 Ijima, T. , 592Emery, K. 0., 105, 225, 226, 227, Grijm, W., 13 Imbrie, J., 1164

228, 229, 318, 319, 385, 566, Gripenberg, S., 392 Ingle, J. C., Jr., 593567, 666, 667, 1234 Groen, P., 671, 770 Inman, D. L., 111, 112, 113,

Escoffier, F. F., 8, 1088 Guilcher, A., 186, 1238, 1239 114, 205, 243, 330, 331, 393,Evans, 0. F., 9, 1.83, 184, 185, Gulliver, F. P., 14, 1240 449, 511, 594, 595, 776, 857

204, 230, 231, 232, 233, 234, Inose, S., 596, 597235, 505, 568, 766, 998 H Inoue, E., 676

Haferkorn, H. E., 1279, 1280 International OceanographicF Haight, F. J., 854 Congress Proc., 1241

Fairchild, H. L., 236 Halcrow, W., 546 Ippen, A. T., 512, 777Fairchild, J. C., 293, 506, 545 Hall, J. A., 771 Isaacs, J. D., 115, 298, 299.Farmer, H. G., 942, 943 Hall, J. V., 772, 947, 1007, 1092, 300, 677, 678, F34, 858, 948

Fellows, C. E., 999 1093, 1094 Isaacson, E., 778Feltner, C. E., 1089 Hall, M. A., 1095 Ishihara, T., 513Fincren, W. W., 1000 Hall, W. C., 1005, 1006, 1096 Iverson, H. W., 779, 780, 781,

Finnegan, H. E., 877, 878 Hamilton, W. S., 773 782, 949

Fisher, R. A., 1190, 1191 Handin, J. W., 326, 1008, 1097 Iwagaki, Y., 547

56

J 1174, 1203, 1204, 1205, 1245 McKee, R., 1118Jacobson, W. A., 950 Kuenen, Ph. H., 190, 252, 341, McKenzie, P., 48, 859

Jaffry, P., 598, 599 342, 453, 520, 1246 McLaughlin, W. T., 1119Jaggar, T. A., Jr., 244 Kuhlman, H., 253, 926, 927 McMaster, R. L., 553James, R. W., 679 Kumin, D. D., 454 McMillan, T. S., 1028Jarock, W., 15 Kunkel, W. B., 455 McNown, J. S., 462, 463

Je uson, M. S. W., 187 Kunzler, R. H., 279Jeffreys, H., 680, 783 Kurk, E. H., 426 M

Jennings, J. N., 16 Kusnezov, P. A., 790 MacCarthur, A., 1120

John, F., 784 MacCarthy, G. R., 345, 346, 347,

Johnsen, R., 116 L 571

Johnson, D. W., 188, 245, 1242 Lafond, E. C., 302, 521, 569 MacDonald, G. A., 696Johnson, J. W., 117, 332, 450, Landon, R. E., 343 MacKay, J. R., 1207, 1208

514, 548, 549, 681, 682, 683, Landsberg, S. Y., 56 Mackenzie, A. D., 1029

684, 785, 786, 835, 836, 837, Lane, E. W., 400, 456 Magnuson, N. C., 908

951, 1018, 1019, 1107, 1108 Lapsley, W. W., 125 Makkaveav, V. M., 697Jolliffe, I. P., 600 Laursen, E. M., 457 Malaika, J., 464Jones, J. H., 118, 515 Lawford, A. L., 686 Mandelbaurn, H., 698, 1209

Lean, G. H., 606 Manohar, M., 526K Lees, G., 401 Marks, W., 956

Kaplan, K., 685, 838, 906, 1109, Le Fur, A., 280 Marlette, J. W., 1121

1110, 1111 Legget, R. F., 402 Mariner, H. A., 881, 882, 1248

Karo, H. A., 1020 Leontyev, 0. K., 126 Marshall, P., 348, 349

Kaye, C. A., 1021 Leopold, L. B., 458 Martens, J. H. C., 131, 132,

Keay, T. B., 1022, 1023 Lesbordes, R., 687 133, 350

Keesling, S., 246 Lesser, R. M., 459 Martonne, Emmaneul de, 1249

Keller, G. H., 333 Levchenko, S. P., 954 Mason, C. C., 351Keller, J. B., 787 Lewis, W. H., 1117 Mason, M. A., 134, 527, 699,Keller, W. D., 334 Lewis, W. V., 19, 20, 191 794, 928, 1030, 1031, 1032

Kellum, F. W., 952 Lewy, H., 127 Mather, B., 1122

Kemp, P. H., 189, 1112 Leypoldt, H., 570, 21 Medvedev, V. S., 135, 607, 608Kempin, E. T., 516 Lhermitte, P., 522 Mehmel, M., 609Kendall, M. G., 1201 Li, J. C. R., 1206 Melton, M. A., 1210, 1211Kerr, A. R., 119 Lindner, C. P., 1025 Menard, H. W., 259, 465, 466,

Keulegan, G. H., 206, 207, 208, Linn, C. C., 460 467451, 879 Lipp, M. N., 1026 Mewes, W., 700

Kidson, C., 301, 517, 601, 602, Liu, H., 254 Meyer, R. D., 136

603, 1113, 550 Lobeck, A. K., 1247 Michell, J. H., 701Kindle, E. M., 247, 248, 249, 250, Longinov, V. V., 79, 128, 129, Military Hydrology Research

335 130, 192, 461, 523, 524, 525, Development Branch, U. S.King, C. A. M., 120, 209, 518, 552, 791, 792, 793 Army Engineer, 1283

1244, 1243 Longuet-Higgins, M. S., 193, 688, Miller, R. L., 137, 468, 1175,King, L. J., 1202 689, 690, 691, 692, 693, 840, 1176, 1212

Kinmont, A., 519 841 Minikin, R. C. R., 1033, 1034,Klebba, A. A., 953 Lowell, S. C., 694 1035, 1123

Knaps, R. J., 1114, 1115 Lunbak, A., 907 Mitchim, C. F., 702Knox, R. W., 17 Miyazaki, M., 860Koelzer, V. A., 336 Mc Mode, E. B., 1213Kofoed, J. W., 337 McAdam, D., 955 Moore, D. G., 260Kumudai, R., 121 McCabe, W. W., 1027 Morey, B. F., 957Kondratyev, N. Y., 788, 789, 839 McCammon, R. B., 403, 404 Morgan, J. P., 82, 1284, 1336Kressner, B., 122 McCrone, W. P., 80 Morison, J. R., 703, 795Krone, R. B., 604, 605 McCurdy, P. G., 281 Moroney, M. J.,1214Krumbein, W. C., 18, 123, 124, McDonald, W. F., 695 Mosby, H., 469, 470

251, 338, 339, 340, 394, 395, McEwen, G. F., 81 Munch-Peterson, J., 554,

396, 397, 398, 399, 421, 422, McGill, J. T., 1282 Munk, W. H., 211, 704, 705, 706,423, 424, 425, 452, 551, 1024, McKay, E. C., 880 707, 708, 709, 710, 711, 712,

1116, 1165, 1166, 1167, 1168, McKee, E. D., 210, 255, 256, 796, 797, 798, 799, 842, 861,1169, 1170, 1171, 1172, 1173, 257, 258, 344 1124

57

Myers, H. B., 1125 Putnam, W. C., 1254 Seiwell, H. R., 1177, 1178

Putz, R. R., 720, 721, 722 Shaler, N. S., 28, 59, 144, 1258,

N 1259

Nash, E., 1126 R Sharp, W. E., 412

Nasu, N., 352 Rabinovitz, D., 359 Shay, E. A., 558

National Academy of Sciences, 713 Ralston, A., 1219 Shepard, F. P., 29, 50, 145, 146,

National Research Council, 1337 Raymond, P. E., 360, 361 147, 196, 197, 213, 214, 282,

Neumann, G., 714, 715, 716 Rector, R. L., 141 366, 367, 368, 369, 532, 574,

Nicholls, C. P. L., 1036 Redfield, A. C., 884 865, 866, 867, 868, 869, 870,

Nichols, R. L., 83, 138, 212 Reed, R. D., 362 1145

Nishimura, E., 883 Reid, R. 0., 805 Shigley, C. M., 1146

Norris, R. M., 22 Reid, W. J., 611, 612, 613 Shirdan, L., 1147

Norrman, J. 0., 139 Reinalda, H., 556 Shuster, C. N., 30, 1341

North Carolina Convention, 1037 Reynolds, G., 909 Sibul, 0. J., 729, 813, 886, 887,

North Carolina Council of Civil Riehl, H., 910 1148, 1149

Defense, 1127 Ripley, H. C., 1042 Silverman, M., 304

Rittenhouse, G., 409 Silvester, R., 814, 1046

0 Riviere, A., 194 Simmons, H. B., 148

O'Brien, M. P., 23, 471, 472, Robinson, A. H., 1220 Sitarz, J., 149

528, 572, 717, 800, 801, 802, Robinson, A. H. W., 911 Smith, D. D., 198

843, 929, 1128, 1338 Rockwell, J., 958 Smith, D. B., 615

Off, T., 573 Roder, W., 1221 Smith, H. T. U., 60

Office of Naval Research and NRC Rogers, C. A., 410 Smith, P. A., 31

Committee on Geography, 1339 Rogers, J. J. W., 363 Snedecor, G. W., 1223

Olivieri, J. M., 1038 Roll, H. U., 723, 724 Snodgrass, F. E., 960, 961

Olson, E. C., 1215, 1216 Romanovsky, V., 411 Snow, B. C., 87

Ommanney, F. D., 1250 Rosalsky, M. B., 195 Somers, P., 1047

Oosting, H. J., 1129, 1130 Rosander, A. C., 1222 Sorensen, T., 1150

Otto, G. H., 405, 427 Roseau, M., 806 Stamp, L. D., 1048

Owens, J. S., 473, 1039 Ross, C. W., 1135, 1136, 1137 Stanton, T., 730

Rossby, C. G., 725 Starr, V. P., 731

P Rubey, W. W., 474 State Board of Conservation,

Page, G. B., 57 Rude, G. T., 25, 65 Florida, 1285

Palmer, H. R., 529 Rusnak, G. A., 364 Steers, J. A., 32, 150, 616, 1049,

Palmer, R. Q., 844, 845, 1131 Russell, R. C. H., 475, 530, 614, 1050, 1261, 1286, 1342

Paterson, D. E., 1040 1043, 1255 Steinmetz, R., 428

Patrick, D. A., 140 Russell, R. D., 476 Stelzenmuller, W. B., 815

Patton, R. S., 1041 Russell, R. J., 26, 1340 Stetson, H. C., 151

Peguy, Ch. P., 1217, 1218 Stevens, B. H., 1224

Peroud, P., 718 S Stevenson, C. D., 871

Pettersen, M., 1132 Savage, R. P., 726, 808, 912, Stewart, J. Q., 913

Pettijohn, F. J., 353, 354, 355, 1138, 1139, 1140, 1141, 807 Stoddart, D. R., 88

356, 406, 1251 Saville, T., 66, 303, 477, 557, Stoker, J. J., 732, 733, 816

Pierson, W. J., Jr., 719, 846, 727, 809, 847, 848, 1142, Stokes, G. G., 734

1133 1143, 1144 Strahler, A. N., 1179, 1180, 1225,

Pincus, H. J., 555 Sawyer, W. L., 1044 1226

Podufaly, E. T., 84 Schalk, M., 365 Stratton, A. C., 1151

Poole, D. M., 407 Scheidegger, A. E., 1256 Sundborg, A., 479

Potter, F. C., 24 Scholl, D. W., 261 Suquet, F., 735

Powers, M. C., 357, 408 Schou, A., 27, 58 Svasek, J. N., 617

Powers, W. E., 358 Schroeder, K. B., 478 Svendsen, SV., 559

Prentiss, L. W., 85 Schupp, R. D., 142 Sverdrup, H. U., 736, 737, 738,

Price, W. A., 49, 86 Schureman, P., 885 817, 1262

Progress in Oceanography, 1252 Scott, T., 531 Swarbrick, E. E., 283

Proudman, A. J., 1253 Scott, W. H., 1045 Sweeting, M. M., 152

Purpura, J. A., 1134 Scripps Institute of Oceanography,

Putman, J. L., 610 728, 810, 811, 812, 864, 959 T

Putnam, J. A., 803, 804, 862, Sears, M., 1257 Taney, N. E., 33

863 Seed, H. B., 143 Tannehill, I. R., 914

58

Tanner, W. F., 34, 35, 153, 154, 537, 562, 1159, 1160, 1161262, 263, 264, 413, 480 Weather Bureau, Dept. of Corn-

Terry, R. D., 533, 1287 merce, 917Thompson, W. F., 155 Weatherwax, H. E., 1057Thompson, W. 0., 265, 266, 267 Welch, W. L., 67Thorn, R. B., 1051 Wentworth, C. K., 418, 419Thornbury, W. D., 1263 West, P. J., 378Threet, R. L., 414 Wheeler, W. H., 538, 563Tickner, E. G., 915 White, C. M., 491, 492Tinny, E. R., 268 Whitney, P. C., 891Todd, D. K., 89, 916 Whitten, E. H. T., 1181, 1228Trask, P. D., 36, 156, 157, 158, Wiegel, R. L., 162, 163, 748, 749,

370, 371, 372, 560, 1263 750, 751, 752, 823, 824, 850,Trefethen, J. M., 269 1162Tucker, M. J., 739, 740, 962 Williams, A. J., 753Turner, M. D., 1052 Williams, E. A., 851Tuttle, S. D., 37 Williams, J., 1265Twenhofel, W. H., 373, 374, 375, Williams, L., 1288

415 Williams, W. W., 164, 284, 1266Tyler, S. A., 376 Wilson, B. W., 754, 918

Wimberley, C. S., 379U Wong, S. T., 1229

Udden, J. A., 377 Wood, H. A., 165Ufford, C. W., 741, 742, 743 Wood, W. F., 1230University of California, 481, 482, Woodford, A. 0., 274

534, 535 Woods Hole Oceanographic Institu-University of Iowa, 483 tion, 166, 167Unna, P. J. H., 744, 849 Wright, F. F., 618U. S. Army, Corps of Engineers,

888, 1152, 1153, 1154, 1156 YU. S. Congress, 1155 Yasso, W. E., 39, 619U. S. Department of Commerce, Yalin, M. S., 168

889, 890 Yoshida, K., 755, 756U. S. Department of Interior, Yu, Y., 825

1053U. S. Hydrographic Office, 745, Z

818 Zenkovitch, V. P., 40, 41, 169,U. S. Navy, 746 170, 171, 172, 493, 494, 620,

621, 622V Ziegler, J. M., 90, 173,174, 175,

Valembois, J., 561 176,177, 285,286Vanoni, V. A., 273, 485Van Straaten, L. M. J. U., 270,

271, 272, 484, 872Vause, J. E., 38

Vesper, W. H., 1157Vincent, G., 536Van Arx, W. S., 1264

WWadell, H., 416, 417Ward, H. A., 747, 1054Warntz, W., 1227Waters, C. H., 159Waterways Experiment Station,

215, 429, 486, 487, 488, 489,490, 819, 820, 822, 963, 964,1055, 1056, 1158

Watts, G. M., 160, 161, 305, 306,

59

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-Se-"o'" -,ewiamus of N.J,, be I abeem. m n mu# btM "him do llho Beo e J0 olNd .

I. ORIGINATIN G ACTIVITY (CpINoo M |1. mPORT SECURITY C LAISIICATION

Coastal Studies Institute NoneLouisiana State University "b neBaton Roufe. Louisiana 70803

S. REPORT TITLE

Selected Bibliography on Beach Features and Related Nearshore Processes

4. DESCRIPTIVK NOTES (r & i' , m Arshbilwe dod)

S. AUTHOR(I) (Lai .me. NIl ame. bmlalO)

Dolan, Robert and McCloy, James

S. REPO OT DATE Ta. lOTAL NO. OP PAOEi 7& NO. O.F REF1

15 November 1964 .60 1342Ia. CONTRACT OR gRANT 0O. 11. ORIIATOUS REUORT N -M0W)

N onr 1575 (00). Technical Report No. 23, Part A.b6 PROJCCT NO.

N onr 1575 (03)

NR 388 002 Sb. J POmT jO(S) (A eO b b u b a BCoastal Studies Institute Contribution No.804

0. A V A IL ABILITY/LIMITATIO NOTICU

U. S. military agencies may obtain copies of this report directly from DDC.

11. SUPPL EMENTARY NOTES II. SPO IN IITARY ACTIM .

Geography Branch, Office of Naval ResearchWashington 25, D.C.

Is. ABSTRACT This bibliography is believed to contain approximately 75 per cent of the mostpertinent literature on the subject of beach features and related nearshore processes.Specific fields covered are outlined in the table of contents. The material is listed by

subject and by name of author. The fact that about 80 per cent of the references arepost-1940 reflects a lack of beach process research prior to World War II. A numberof the general papers could be listed under more than one subject heading, so theauthors' evaluation of their principal content determined their classification.

DD I JAN 4 1473 sm.tt ,.ilfoaom

None

Security Classification__________KE. WORDS LIN A LINK 9 LINK C

Bbliography on Beach Features and RelatedROE W RLE T LS ?

Nearshore Processes

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