all you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part...
TRANSCRIPT
“All you’ve got to do is decide to go and the hardest part is over.
So go!” TONY WHEELER, COFOUNDER – LONELY PLANET
Tokyo
Rebecca Milner, Simon Richmond
Plan Your Trip 12
©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
ContentsContents
Welcome to Tokyo ..........4
Tokyo’s Top 16 ................6
What’s New ................... 17
Need to Know ...............18
Top Itineraries ............. 20
If You Like… .................. 22
Month by Month .......... 24
With Kids ...................... 28
Like a Local .................. 29
For Free ......................... 31
Eating ......................... 32Drinking & Nightlife .....................41Entertainment ..........44Shopping ....................46
Plan Your Trip page 1
Understand Tokyo 201
Survival Guide 231
Tokyo Maps 263
Plan Your Trip 4
Explore Tokyo 50
Transport ....................232
Directory A–Z ............ 238
Language ....................245
Index ............................255
Tokyo Today ............... 202
History ........................204
Pop Culture .................213
Arts & Architecture ....218
Onsen ......................... 227
Neighbourhoods at a Glance ................... 52
Marunouchi & Nihombashi .............. 54
Ginza & Tsukiji ............. 65
Roppongi, Akasaka & Around ...........................76
Ebisu, Meguro & Around .......................87
Shibuya & Shimo-Kitazawa .......... 95
Harajuku & Aoyama .. 106
West Tokyo ................. 118
Shinjuku & Northwest Tokyo ........125
Kōrakuen & Akihabara .................... 136
Ueno & Yanesen ......... 147
Asakusa & Sumida River ..............159
Odaiba & Tokyo Bay ... 171
Day Trips from Tokyo .................177
Sleeping ..................... 191
EA
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Shibuya &Shimo-Kitazawa
Ginza &Tsukiji
Marunouchi &Nihombashi
Asakusa &Sumida
River
Ebisu, Meguro& Around
Harajuku &Aoyama
WestTokyo
Shinjuku &Northwest
Tokyo
Ueno &Yanesen
Kōrakuen& Akihabara
Odaiba &Tokyo Bay
Roppongi,Akasaka& Around
p125
p106
p95
p87
p76 p65
p171
p54
p136
p147
p159p118
(left) Koishikawa Kōrakuen p138 Formal strolling garden.
(above) Akihabara p136 Electronics district.
(right) Yakitori p36 Chicken skewers.
Top ItinerariesDay OneHarajuku & Aoyama (p106)
M Start with a visit to Meiji-jingū, Tokyo’s signature Shintō shrine. Then
walk down Omote-sandō to check out the jaw-dropping contemporary architecture along this stylish boulevard. Work (and shop) your way back through the side streets of Ura-Hara, and then up Takeshita-dōri, the famous teen fashion bazaar.
Shibuya & Shimo-Kitazawa (p95)
R Head down to Shibuya (you can walk) and continue your schooling in
Tokyo pop culture by wandering the lanes of this youthful neighbourhood. Don’t miss Shibuya Center-gai, the main drag, and the mural, Myth of Tomorrow, in the train station. Stick around Shibuya until dusk to see Shibuya Crossing all lit up.
Shinjuku & Northwest Tokyo (p125)
N Take the train to Shinjuku and im-merse yourself in the swarming
crowds and neon lights of this notorious nightlife district. The Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building observatories stay open until 11pm for free night views. Freshen up at urban onsen Thermae-yu. From around 9pm the shanty bars of Golden Gai come to life; take your pick from the quirky offerings and finish up with a time-honoured Tokyo tradition: a late-night bowl of noodles at Nagi.
Day TwoGinza & Tsukiji (p65)
M Skip breakfast and head to Tsukiji Outer Market, where you can cobble
together a morning meal from the food ven-dors here. There are also stalls selling kitch-en tools, tea and more. From Tsukiji it’s an easy walk to the landscape garden Hama-rikyū Onshi-teien, where you can stop for tea in the teahouse Nakajima no Ochaya. Then walk (or take a taxi) to Ginza, home to department stores, art galleries and luxury boutiques.
Ginza & Tsukiji (p65)
R Continue exploring Ginza, walking as far as Hibiya, to see the edge of the
Imperial Palace, with its moats and keeps. Then hop on the subway and ride back to Kabukiza (in Higashi-Ginza), to see a sin-gle act of kabuki (check the schedule online beforehand).
Marunouchi & Nihombashi (p54)
N Walk up Namiki-dōri, home to high-end hostess bars, and pretty, tree-
lined Naka-dōri to Marunouchi. In nearby Yūrakuchō, you can stop for sake, beer and small plates of food under the elevated train tracks at Manpuku Shokudō. Or go upscale with cocktails at Peter atop the Pen-insula Hotel.
Dinner Classic izakaya Donjaca (p132) or yakitori in Omoide-yokochō (p130).
Lunch Stop for dumplings at local fave Harajuku Gyōza-rō (p111).
Dinner Night-time noodles at Kagari (p69).
Lunch Go for broke at sushi counter Kyūbey (p70); book ahead.
20 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
Day ThreeUeno & Yanesen (p147)
M Spend the morning exploring the many attractions of Ueno-kōen,
home to the Tokyo National Museum, centuries-old temples and shrines, and Tokyo’s biggest zoo. Then take a stroll through the old-fashioned, open-air mar-ket, Ameya-yokochō, and the historical neighbourhood of Yanaka; in the latter you’ll find art galleries and studios.
Asakusa & Sumida River (p159)
R Catch the subway for Asakusa to visit the temple complex Sensō-ji,
the shrine Asakusa-jinja and the maze of old-world alleys that surround these sights. There are lots of shops selling traditional crafts and foodstuffs around here, too.
Don’t miss the temple complex all lit up from dusk.
Asakusa & Sumida River (p159)
N Asakusa has some fun, low-key nightlife, from the historic beer hall
Kamiya Bar to the modern Asahi Sky Room (where the view of the illuminated Tokyo Sky Tree and the snaking Sumida-gawa is excellent); you can also catch folk-music shows at Oiwake. Or just take the subway to Ryōgoku for more beer: Popeye
Day FourWest Tokyo (p118)
M Take the train west to the magical Ghibli Museum (reservations nec-
essary; we recommend getting in early at 10am). Afterwards walk through woodsy Inokashira-kōen, stopping at Inoka-shira Benzaiten, to Kichijōji, home to the old market, Harmonica-yokochō.
Kōrakuen & Akihabara (p136)
R After lunch, work your way east on the Sōbu line: your final goal is pop
culture centre Akihabara. (But if you get distracted by the vintage clothing shops of Kōenji or the more underground otaku scene in Nakano, that’s OK too.) In Akiba you can play retro video games at Super Potato Retro-kan and ride go-karts – while dressed as video-game characters – through the streets with Akiba Kart (re-
serve ahead; international driving licence necessary).
Roppongi, Akasaka & Around (p76)
N Hop on the Hibiya line for Rop-pongi to check out Roppongi
Hills, the first of Tokyo’s new breed of live-work-and-play megamalls. On the top floor of a tower here is the excellent Mori Art
Dinner Fill up on steaming oden at 100-year-old Otafuku (p167).
Lunch Get a course of seasonal skew-ers at historic Hantei (p157).
Dinner Get the izakaya experience at Jōmon (p84) or Gonpachi (p81).
Lunch Skewers at Tetchan (p122) or wagyū steak at Satou (p123).
21PLAN
YOUR TRIP T
Op
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Areas
Geographic
Population
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Sights
Activities,Courses & Tours
Sleeping
Eating
Drinking & Nightlife
Entertainment
Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed aboveappear on the maps in this book
Tokyo Maps
263©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd
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2 Archi-Depot .................................................D4 û Drinking & Nightlife (p175) 3 ChihiraJunco ...............................................B2 13 Jicoo the Floating Bar................................ A2 4 Fuji TV Building ...........................................B2
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AZABU-JŪBAN
MOTO-AZABU
SHIBUYA-KU
MINAMI-AOYAMA
NISHI-AZABU ROPPONGI
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Aoyama-reien(Aoyama Cemetery)
Jingū-gaienJingū-
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Gaien-higashi-dōri
Aoyama-dōri
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DState Guest House,Akasaka Palace (390m)
270
ROPPO
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271
ROPP
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æ Top Sights (p78) û Drinking & Nightlife (p85) 1 Roppongi Hills .............................................C6 35 Agave ...........................................................C5 36 Brewdog ......................................................D6 æ Sights (p79) 37 Mori-no Beer Garden ..................................A1 2 21_21 Design Sight......................................C4 38 Royal Garden Café ..................................... A3 3 Atago-jinja....................................................G5 39 Sekirei ...........................................................A1 4 Canadian Embassy Stone Garden............C2 40 SuperDeluxe................................................C6 5 Complex 665 ...............................................D6 41 The Garden..................................................D6 6 Fujifilm Square ............................................C5 42 These............................................................B6 7 General Nogi's Residence..........................C4 43 Toranomon Koffee.....................................G4 8 Hie-jinja ........................................................E2
9 Honda Welcome Plaza Aoyama................B3 ý Entertainment (p86) 10 Hotel New Ōtani Gardens.......................... D1 44 Suntory Hall ................................................ F4 11 Maman Spider Sculpture...........................C6
12 Mohri Garden ..............................................C6 þ Shopping (p86) 13 Mori Art Museum........................................C6 45 Axis Design.................................................. E6 14 Musée Tomo................................................F4 46 Blue & White................................................ D7 15 National Art Center Tokyo.........................C5 47 Japan Traditional Crafts Aoyama 16 Nogi-jinja ......................................................C4 Square.......................................................C2 17 Sangedatsumon..........................................H7 Souvenir from Tokyo ........................(see 15) 18 Sōgetsu Kaikan ...........................................C2 48 Tolman Collection ...................................... H7 19 Suntory Museum of Art .............................C4
Tokyo City View .................................(see 13) Ø Sports & Activities (p86) 20 Tokyo Garden Terrace................................E1 Tokyo Cook ....................................... (see 32) 21 Tokyo Midtown............................................D4
22 Tokyo Tower............................................... G6 ÿ Sleeping (p195) 23 Zōjō-ji............................................................G7 49 APA Hotel Roppongi .................................. D5 50 First Cabin Akasaka ................................... E3 ú Eating (p81) 51 Hotel Mystays Premier Akasaka.............. E3 24 Chinese Cafe 8............................................C6 52 Hotel S .........................................................B6 25 Gogyō ...........................................................B5 53 Hotel the M Innsomnia Akasaka............... E3 26 Gonpachi......................................................B6 54 Kaisu ............................................................D3 27 Honmura-An................................................D5 55 Zabutton Good Hostel ................................F7 28 Jōmon...........................................................D6
29 Kikunoi..........................................................D3 ï Information 30 Lauderdale...................................................C6 56 Chinese Embassy....................................... C7 31 Mornington Cresent ................................... F7 57 Netherlands Embassy ............................... F6 32 Sougo ...........................................................D5 58 Russian Embassy....................................... F6 33 Tofuya-Ukai .................................................G7 59 Tokyo Medical & Surgical Clinic............... G7 34 Uramakiya.................................................... F7
272
SHIBUYA & SH
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D
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æ Top Sights (p97) û Drinking & Nightlife (p99) 29 Shibuya 109...................C2 1 Shibuya Crossing.......... C2 15 Beat Cafe ....................... B3 Shibuya Hikarie......(see 2) 16 Contact...........................C3 30 Shibuya Publishing æ Sights (p98) 17 Good Beer Booksellers ..................A1 2 d47 Museum.................. D3 Faucets........................ B2 31 Tokyu Hands...................C1 3 Dōgenzaka..................... B3 18 Karaoke-kan ..................C2
4 Hachikō Statue.............. C3 19 Nonbei-yokochō............D2 Ø Sports & Activities (p105) 5 Myth of Tomorrow........ D3 20 Rhythm Cafe...................B1 32 Purikura no Mecca........C2 6 Shibuya Center-gai....... C2 21 Shidax Village .................C1
7 Spain-zaka..................... C2 22 Tight................................D2 ÿ Sleeping (p196) 8 Toguri Museum of Art .. A2 23 Womb .............................B3 33 Capsule & Sauna Century........................ B3 ú Eating (p98) ý Entertainment (p104) 34 Hotel Mets Shibuya ......D4 d47 Shokudō ..........(see 2) 24 Club Quattro..................C2 35 Shibuya Granbell 9 Food Show..................... C3 25 Uplink...............................B1 Hotel ............................D4 10 Gyūkatsu Motomura .... D3 26 WWW ..............................C2
11 Kaikaya........................... A3 ï Information 12 Matsukiya....................... B3 þ Shopping (p105) 36 New Zealand 13 Nagi Shokudō ................C4 27 Fake Tokyo.....................C2 Embassy.......................A1 14 Sagatani ......................... B2 28 Loft.................................. C2
273
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EBISU & MEGURO
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æ Sights (p89) 1 Beer Museum Yebisu ...................................D4 2 Container ....................................................... A3 3 Institute for Nature Study ........................... F6 4 Kyū Asakura House...................................... A2 5 Meguro-gawa ................................................ A3 6 Tokyo Metropolitan Teien Art Museum..... E5 7 TOP Museum.................................................D4 8 Yamatane Museum of Art.............................D1 9 Yebisu Garden Place ....................................D4
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275
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5 Yūshū-kan....................................................B3 Ø Sports & Activities (p146) 14 Buddha Bellies............................................D3 ú Eating (p139) 15 Ichigaya Fish Centre .................................. A4 6 Canal Cafe....................................................B2 16 Spa LaQua....................................................D1 7 Kado.............................................................. A1 17 Tokyo Dome City Attractions ................................................D1 û Drinking & Nightlife (p143)
8 Craft Beer Server Land..............................B2 ÿ Sleeping (p198) 9 Mugimaru 2 .................................................B2 18 Tokyo Central Youth Hostel...................... B2
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282
AKIHABARA
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æ Sights (p138) 13 Akihabara Radio Center ............................D2 1 3331 Arts Chiyoda ...................................... C1 14 Akihabara Radio Kaikan ............................D2 2 Kanda Myōjin (Kanda Shrine)................... C1 15 Chabara .......................................................D2 3 Nikolai Cathedral ........................................B2 16 Jimbōchō Bookstores................................ A3 4 Origami Kaikan............................................ B1 Kaiyōdō Hobby Lobby ......................(see 14) 5 Yushima Seidō (Yushima Shrine)............. C1 K-Books ..............................................(see 14) Komiyama Shoten.............................(see 16) ú Eating (p139) 17 mAAch ecute ..............................................C2 6 Botan ............................................................C2 18 Mandarake Complex...................................C1 7 Ethiopia ........................................................B2 19 Ohya Shobō................................................. A3 8 Kanda Yabu Soba .......................................C2 20 Yodobashi Akiba.........................................D2 9 Kikanbō ........................................................D3
Komaki Shokudō................................(see 15) Ø Sports & Activities (p146) 21 Akiba Kart....................................................C2 û Drinking & Nightlife (p143) 22 Super Potato Retro-kan ............................C2 10 @Home Cafe................................................C2
Cafe Asan............................................(see 12) ÿ Sleeping (p198) 11 Imasa............................................................ C1 23 Hilltop Hotel ................................................ A2 N3331 ..................................................(see 17) 24 Hotel Niwa Tokyo ........................................A1
þ Shopping (p144) ï Information 12 2k540 Aki-Oka Artisan............................... D1 25 Akiba Info.....................................................D2
283
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UENO
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UENO & YANESEN æ Top Sights (p149) 26 Kamachiku ..................................................B4 1 Tokyo National Museum............................D4 27 Nagomi ........................................................B2 28 Nezu no Taiyaki .......................................... A4 æ Sights (p153) 29 Sasa-no-Yuki...............................................D3 2 Asakura Museum of Sculpture, Taitō ......B2 30 Shinsuke...................................................... B7 3 Enju-ji............................................................B4
4 Gallery of Hōryū-ji Treasures ....................C4 û Drinking & Nightlife (p157) 5 Heiseikan .....................................................D4 31 Bousingot .................................................... A3 6 Kiyōmizu Kannon-dō..................................C6 32 Kayaba Coffee ............................................B4 7 Kuroda Memorial Hall ................................C4 33 Torindō ........................................................C4 8 Kuro-mon.....................................................C4 34 Yanaka Beer Hall ........................................C3 9 Kyū Iwasaki-teien........................................B7
10 National Museum of Nature & ý Entertainment (p157) Science......................................................D5 35 Tokyo Bunka Kaikan .................................. C5 11 National Museum of Western Art.............D5
12 Nezu-jinja .....................................................A4 þ Shopping (p158) 13 SCAI the Bathhouse...................................B3 36 Ameya-yokochō ......................................... C7 14 Shinobazu-ike .............................................C6 37 Edokoro Allan West.................................... B4 15 Shitamachi Museum ..................................C6 38 Isetatsu........................................................ A3 16 Shitamachi Museum Annex ......................C3 39 Shokichi ....................................................... A3 17 Ueno Tōshō-gū............................................C5 40 Yanaka Matsunoya..................................... B2 18 Ueno Zoo......................................................C5
19 Ueno-kōen ...................................................C5 Ø Sports & Activities (p158) 20 Yanaka Ginza...............................................B2 41 Rokuryu Kōsen ........................................... B5 21 Yanaka-reien ...............................................C3 42 Tokyobike Rental Service..........................B3 22 Yushima Tenjin............................................B7 43 Ueno Free Walking Tour............................D5
ú Eating (p155) ÿ Sleeping (p199) 23 Hagiso...........................................................B2 44 Annex Katsutarō Ryokan .......................... A2 24 Hantei ...........................................................B5 45 Hanare ......................................................... A2 25 Innsyoutei ....................................................C6 46 Sawanoya Ryokan...................................... A4
285
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æ Top Sights (p161) 17 Daikokuya ......................C3 33 Ganso Shokuhin 1 Sensō-ji ..........................C2 18 Hoppy-dōri..................... B2 Sample-ya................... A2 19 Iriyama Sembei ............. B3 34 Kappabashi-dōri............ A2 æ Sights (p163) 20 Komagata Dozeu ..........B4 35 Kurodaya........................C3 2 Amuse Museum............ C2 21 Onigiri Yadoroku ............C1 36 Marugoto Nippon.......... B2 3 Asakusa-jinja ................. C2 22 Otafuku............................A1 37 Solamachi .......................D1 4 Awashima-dō ................ C2 23 Rokurinsha......................D1 38 Sumida City Point..........D1 5 Chingo-dō ...................... B2 24 Sometarō ....................... A3 39 Tokyo Hotarudo ............ B2 6 Edo Shitamachi 40 Yonoya Kushiho ............C3 Traditional Crafts û Drinking & Nightlife (p168)
Museum .......................B1 Asahi Sky Room....(see 11) Ø Sports & Activities (p170) 7 Five-Storey Pagoda...... C2 25 Café Otonova................. A2 41 Hanayashiki ................... B2 8 Hōzō-mon ...................... C2 26 'Cuzn Homeground .......B1 42 Jakotsu-yu ..................... B3 9 Kaminari-mon ............... C3 27 Ef .....................................C4 Mokuhankan........ (see 39) 10 Niten-mon...................... C2 28 Kamiya Bar ....................C3 43 Tokyo Kitchen ...............D3 11 Super Dry Hall ...............D4 44 Wanariya .........................A1 12 Taiko Drum Museum.... B3 ý Entertainment (p168)
13 Tokyo Sky Tree ..............D1 29 Asakusa Engei Hall ....... B2 ÿ Sleeping (p199) 30 Oiwake.............................A1 45 Bunka Hostel Tokyo ..... B3 ú Eating (p165) 46 Japonica Lodge.............D3 14 Asakusa Imahan ........... B2 þ Shopping (p169) 47 Khaosan World.............. B2 15 Asakusa Unagi Sansho A2 31 Bengara..........................C3 48 Sukeroku No Yado 16 Chōchin Monaka........... C2 32 Fujiya ..............................C2 Sadachiyo ....................B1
286
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3 Kiyosumi-teien ............................................C4 û Drinking & Nightlife (p168) 4 Sumida Hokusai 7 Popeye..........................................................B1 Museum .................................................... C1
5 Tomioka Hachiman-gū...............................C5 ý Entertainment (p168) 8 Ryōgoku Kokugikan ....................................B1
287
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Our WritersRebecca MilnerEbisu, Meguro & Around, Harajuku & Aoyama, Shibuya & Shimo-Kitazawa, Shinjuku & Northwest Tokyo, West Tokyo, Odaiba & Tokyo Bay Californian born, and longtime Tokyo resident (15 years and counting!), Rebecca has co-authored Lonely Planet guides to Tokyo, Japan, Korea and China. A freelance writer covering travel, food and culture, Rebecca has been published in the Guardian, the Independent, the Sunday Times Travel Magazine, the Japan
Times and more. After spending the better part of her twenties working to travel – doing odd jobs in Tokyo to make money so she could spend months at a time backpacking around Asia – Re-becca joined the Lonely Planet team of freelance writers in 2010.
Rebecca also wrote the Welcome to Tokyo, Tokyo’s Top 16, What’s New, Need to Know, Top Itineraries, If You Like…, Month by Month, With Kids, Like a Local, For Free, Eating, Shopping, Neighbourhoods at a Glance, Sleeping, Tokyo Today, History, Arts & Architecture, and Onsen chapters, and the Survival Guide.
Simon RichmondAsakusa & Sumida River, Ginza & Tsukiji, Kōrakuen & Akihabara, Marunouchi & Nihombashi, Roppongi, Akasaka & Around, Ueno & Yanesen Journalist and photographer Simon Richmond has specialised as a travel writer since the early 1990s and first worked for Lonely Planet in 1999 on their Central Asia guide. He’s long since stopped counting the number of guidebooks he’s re-searched and written for the company, but countries covered include Australia,
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His travel features have been published in newspapers and magazines around the world, in-cluding in the UK’s Independent, Guardian, Times, Daily Telegraph and Royal Geographical Soci-ety Magazine; and Australia’s Sydney Morning Herald and Australian Financial Review Magazine. Simon also wrote the Drinking & Nightlife, Entertainment and Tokyo Pop Culture chapters.
Our StoryA beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born.
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