american woodworker 140 (febmar 2009)

7/30/2019 American Woodworker 140 (FebMar 2009)

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Satisfy your most important clientThe best projects aren't for , or about yo urself And when someone special is involved, safe ty iseven more critical. With an innovative torsion mechanism tested to 25,000 cycles, our newLid-Stay Hinges hold lids open at almost any angle so her fingers stay secure and yo ur mindstays at ease- another way Rockler helps you Create with Confidence.-- ~ f l - 0 S-a;'Ings CertIficate --

To get $10 off a $30 order, simply place your order at Rockler.com by entering promotion code V9312 at checkout .

\IIOr br ing coupon to a Rockier store near you.One-t ime use only. Minimum purchase of $30 in qualifying merchandise required. Cannot beapplied to sales ta x or shipping. No cash value. Cannot be combined with other offers or coupons.Valid at Rockier retail stores on ly. Not va lid atRockier Partner store locations. Excludes sale items. power tools. Leigh jigs. Poner-Cable dovetail jigs, Shark eNe, Omni Jigs, Festool, Fein,Rockier and Bench Dog router table packages and Rockier Gift Cards. Offer expires 6I1n.009. 1111 111111111111111111111 1111 I4 60000 00033 0 ~------------------- ------odder Woodworking and Hardware - Since 1954

,Q;" For a store near you orFee catalog visit Rockler.com 1-877-ROCKLER


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American.,(iWoodworker#140, February/March 2009

Features36 Router Bit Caddy

Separate, sort and see your collection.39 NEW! BuildYour SkillsTambour Door Breadbox

Flexible doors are now much easier tomake using a set of ingenious router bits.

49 Weekend Picture FramesCreate extraordinary frames withordinary router bits.

54 Next-Generation Router TableMake more accurate cuts with a fiat,solid-surface top.

62 NEW! American MasterworksShaker Blanket ChestHaving a top-notch dovetail jig 'really pays off.

72 Aged Cherry FinishWipe on years of age ina few easy steps.

74 Fast-and-Easy Drawer BoxesA unique router table,with two machines,does the trick.


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Departments8 Workshop Tips

Store router bi ts on a router table, organize sandpaper in an index-card box, build a turntable for finishing, add height-adjustment to sawhorses, make a jigfor marking dozens of dovetails, build a jig for planing square edges, prevent your vise from racking,burnish purpleheart to look like rosewood, and usereal parts to label part bins.

12 NEW! Thrifty WoodworkerRecycle mop pads into vise faces, make a sandpapershoulder plane, rout dowels from square stock, storeglue in a soap bottle, hook up dust collection using apool noodle, and make jig knobs from bottle caps.

14 Well-Equipped ShopInfinity Lapped Miter Joint Router Bit Set,Professional Coping Sled and 2-Piece 15ShakerMatched Rail and Stile Set; Betterley Stacc-Vac RouterBase; CMT Bowl and Tray Kit; Festool MFK 700 EQTrim Router Set and Kapex KS 120 Sliding CompoundMiter Saw; Freud Quadra-Cut router bits, PremierSolid Carbide Bits and Double Grind Straight Bits;Amana In-Tech Series Replaceable Knife Router Bitsand In-Groove Insert Engraving Bits, Makita LaminateTrimmer, Veritas NX60 Premium and DX60 BlockPlanes; and Micro Fence Micro Bit Kit.

20 Tool NutThe Carter Electric Plane helps revive an old Stanleydome-top router.

22 My ShopA college student 's first shop fills his parent's garage.

24 Tool TalkPorter-Cable's Omnijig Joinery SystemAn innovative jig makes routing dovetails a pleasure.

28 School NewsWoodLiNKSAn ambitious nonprofit connects woodshopstudents to industry.

31 NEW! AGreat American WoodworkerPeter H. Wallace masters the art ofWindsor chairmaking.

82 Oops!A magnifying glass and a bright sunmelt a scrollsaw.

4 www.AmericanWoodworker.com FE B R U A R Y I MA R CH 2 0 0 9


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Muntin Joint Bit EndV!ew

Freud's Unique French Door Router Bit System Allows you to Build TrulyCustomized French Doors without Spending a Fortune!

These custom doors are not only beautiful; their mortise and tenon construction can producedoors that will hold up in the toughest conditions. Thanks to Freud's unique system, youcan create door joints with precisely fit tenons at any length to produce doors that will lasta lifetime. The French Door Router Bit System is the only router bit set that produces FrenchDoors with either True Divided Light or Simulated Divided Light grills.

5 Piece French Door Bit Sets: Roundover Profile (#98-317) Roundover Profi le (#98-307) Ogee Profile (#98-318) Ogee Profile (#98-308) Cove & Bead Profile (#98-319) 18003344107 Cove & Bead Profile (#98-309)

Red router bits are a registered trademark of Freud America, Inc.


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M ~ ! ~ L U M B E R& SAVE MONEY

8 SawmillModelsAvailable

A : m . e r i c a n ~WoodworkerEDITORIAL

Editorial Director Randy JohnsonEditor Tom Caspar

Associate Editor Tim JohnsonContributing Editors Lonnie Bird

John EnglishBrad HoldenBruce KiefferAlan LacerDave Munkittr ickDavid Radtke

Office Adminis trator Shelly JacobsenART & DESIGN

Creative Director Vern JohnsonDirector of Photograp hy Jason Zentner

Design Consultants Impress, Inc.

Category President/Publisher Carol LasseterAdvertising Director Brian Ziff

Classified Advert ising Manager Susan TausterVice President/Production Derek W. Corson

Production Coordinator Michael J. RueckwaldAd Production Coordinator Kristin N. Beaudoin

Systems Engineer Denise Donnaru mmaV.P. Consumer Marketing Dennis O'Brien

Circulation Steve PippinAdrienne RomaSusan SidlerDominic M. Taormina

Director E-Media Steve Singer

ADVERTISING SALES1285 Corporate Center Drive, Suite 180, Eagan, MN 55121

Brian Ziff, [email protected] (860) 417-2275, cell (203) 509-0125, fax (B60) 41 7-2275

Classified Advertising Manager - Susan Tauster,[email protected]

office (630) 858-155B,cell (630) 336-0916, fax (630) 85B-1510

NEW TRACK MEDIA LLCChief Executive Officer Stephen J. Kent

Executive Vice President/CFO Ma rk F ArnettVice Presiden t/Publishing Director Joel P. Toner

Issue #140. American Woodworke r, ISSN 1074-9152, USPS 738-710Published bimonthly by Woodworking Media, LLC, 90 Sherman St.,Cambridge, MA 02140. Periodicals postage paid at Boston, MA andadditional mailing offices. Postmaster: Send change of address noticeto American o o d w o r k e ~ P . O . Box420235, Palm Coast, FL 32142-0235.Subscription rates: US. one-year, $24.98. Single-copy, $5.99. Canadaone-year, $29.98. Single-copy $6.99 (U.s. Funds); GST # R1 2298861 1.Foreign surface one-year, $29.98 (U.s. Funds). u.s. newsstand distribution by Curtis Circulation Company, LLC, New Milford, NJ 07646. CanadaPost Publications Mail Agreement Number 41525524. CanadaPostmaster: Send address changes to: American Woodworker, PO Box456, Niagara Falls, ON UE 6V2. Send returns and address changes toAmerican Woodworkere, P.O. Box 420235, Palm Coast, FL 32142-0235.Printed in USA. e 2008 New Track Media LLC. All rights reserved.American Woodworlrer may share information about you with reputablecompanies in order forthem to offer you products and services of nterestto you. If you would rather we not share information, please write to us at:American Woodworker,Customer Service Department, P.O. Box 420235,Palm Coast, FL 32142'()235.Please include a copy of your address label.Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a correctedaddress wi thin one year.

Comments & SuggestionsWrite to us at American Woodworker, 1285 CorporateCenter Drive,Suite 180, Eagan, MN 55121. (952) 948-5890,fax (9 52) 948-5895, e-mail [email protected].

SubscriptionsAmerican Woodworker Subscriber Service Dept.P.O. Box 420235, Pa lm Coast, FL32142-0235, (800) 666-31 11, e-mailamericanwoo [email protected] Issues Some are available for $6.99 each, plusshipping and hand ling. Order from the Reprint Centerat www.american woodwo rker.com/backissue.


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From the Editor's DesltIn the GrooveA ROUTER'S ABILITY to cut, shape,carve and drill makes it one ofwoodworking's most versatile tools.Its usefulness continues to expand,as evidenced by the large number ofnew accessories, bits and jigs thatcome to market every year. And itspopularity is underscored by manufacturers' ongoing efforts to improvethe machine itself.

This issue of AmericanWoodworker is our 10th annualRouter Special. There's never been ashortage of "new and improved"router items to write about, and thisyear is no exception. We've includedseveral of our favorites in "WellEquipped Shop" (see page 14), suchas Freud's expanded line of QuadraCut bits, with patented up and downshear cutters that help eliminatetearout and fuzz on even the toughest woods. We also cover Festool'snew MFK 700 EQ trim router,Infinity's professional router tablecoping sled, CMT's bowl and tray bitset, and many more.

Porter-Cable's all-new OmnijigJoinery System is a major entry inthis year's field of dovetail jigs (seepage 24). We all aspire to masteringdovetail joints-either by hand ormachine, because they add beautyand strength to any project. The"Shaker Blanket Chest" (see page 62)turned out to be a perfect piece toput the new Omnijig through itspaces. Capable of routing through,half-blind, fixed and variably spaceddovetails, Porter-Cable went all outto mClke this new Omnijig accurateand easy to use.

Making a tambour door is another woodworking technique thatholds a similar attraction. If you'veever bui lt a rol l-top desk, you knowthe sense of accomplishment thatyou feel after completing the tambour. Traditionally, tambour doorswere created by glu ing strips of

wood to a piece of canvas. But nowyou can complete the job with arouter. Amana's ingenious new tambour door router bi t set creates tambour sections that go together withinterlocking joints, so you can skipthe canvas and glue.Master woodworker Lonnie Bird shows us how it'sdone with his "Tambour-DoorBreadbox"on page 39.

If you're looking for ways toimprove your routing skills, learn afew new tricks or turn out somenice small projects, see "Fast-andEasy Drawer Boxes" on page 74and "Weekend Picture Frames" onpage 49.

Of course, our Router Specialissue wouldn't be complete with outsomething for your router table. Thistime, it's the whole table! JohnEnglish's "Next-Generation Roy,terTable" incorporates a host of usefulfeatures, including a solid-surfacetabletop (see page S4).John alsoprovides a bonus project with his"Router Bit Caddy" on page 36. Fillthis one up with router bits andyou'll really be "in the groove."

Keep the chips flying,

q ~ i f 9 L -Randy Johnson

FE B R U A R Y I MA R CH20 09 www.Am.ericanWoodworker.com 7


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Workshop Tips

Router Bit NestWATCHING AN EXPENSIVE routerbi t roll onto the floor is a heartbreaking experience. In the middle of aproject, it can be a disaster. I drilleda few 1/2" and 1/4" holes in the edgeof a piece of MDF and fastened it to

Clever Ideas From Our Readers

the back of my router table's fence.In this nest, I keep all the bits I'musing for a particular project at myfingertips without worrying abouthaving them roll off the table.

-Serge Due/os

Finishing Turntable . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .My finishing turntable is perfectfor spraying large parts or projects.To make the device, Imounted fivefixed 3-1/2" casters on a plywoodpanel. They're equally spaced in a16" diameter circle. Fixed casters

won't pivot, so the project rotatesaround its center. I placed 3" blocksin front of the casters to keep themfrom gett ing clogged with finish.

-Mark Thiel

Terrific Tips Win Terrific Tools!We'll give you $100 for every original wo rkshop tip we publish. We ' ll choose one Terrific Tip fo r each issue.The Terrific Tip winner receives a 12" Leigh Super Jig with VRS (Vacuum and Router Support), a $239 value.

E-ma il your t ip towo rkshoptips@america nwoodwo rker.com orsend it toAmericanWoodwo rkerWorkshop Tips.1 285CorporateCenter Drive. Suite 180,Eagan, MN 55 121 . Submissions can 't be return ed and become our property upon acceptance an d payment. We ma y edit submissions and use them in all printand elect ro nic media.

8 www.AmericanWoodworker.com FEB R U A R Y I MA R CH 2 0 0 9


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Adjustable-Height TableTHERE'S NO SINGLE SURFACE inmy shop that's the ideal height forevery job. With my adjustable-heightsaWhorses, I can quickly set up anoutfeed table, drawing table, orassembly table at different heightsas the need arises.

My sawhorses are the folding, galvanized-metal kind, but any type willdo. Cut 2x4's to fi t on the sawhorse'stop surfaces. Make a 3/4" wide x3/4" deep groove down the centerof each 2x4. Fine-tune the groove'swidth so that a 3/4" thick piece ofplywood will fi t snugly. Then, screwthe 2x4s to the sawhorses. Cut 3/4"plywood inserts to raise or lowerthe tabletop to whatever height youneed. -Craig Kortz

Pin Board Marking Jig . ....................... .My task: 28 kitchen drawers of different sizes, all with hand-cut dovetails. The thought of laying these outwas overwhelming, so I designed ajig to simplify the process. To makethe jig, carefully layout and cut apiece of 1/4" hardboard as if it werethe pin board for the tallest drawer.Glue and nail the hardboard to a3/4" plywood backer. Fasten a stopon each side.

Place an actual pin board into

\ ' ~ . m "LUMINUMANGLE

the jig with the outside face againstthe backer board and one sideagainst either stop. Clamp the wholething into a vise and use a chisel tomark the end grain, defining thepins. Scribe a depth line, and use asquare to mark saw lines and cut thedovetails as usual. Since my drawerheights and my dovetail spacingwere in 1/2" increments, the jigworked for all the drawers.

-Bob Edenhofer

Perfectly Square Edges Using a PlanerI 'VE HAD TROUBLE making square and smooth edges on face frame parts,but this planer j ig solved all my problems. It produces accurate and consistent results. For the jig's base, cut T-slots in a 3/4" x 11 " board that's a little bi tlonger than the planer's bed and extension tables. Use T-bolts and wing nutsto fasten two 1-1 / 2" x 1-1 / 2" aluminum angles to the jig. Adjust the angles tofi t tight around your board. Clamp the jig to the planer's bed, then feed yourstock between the angles. Use smaller or larger angles for different widthsof stock, being careful to ensure your planer kn ives come nowhere near theangles' top edges. -Doug/as MacKay

FE B R UA RY I MA RC H 2 009 www.AmericanWoodworker.com 9


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Workshop Tips continued

No-Rack ViseA WORKPIECE ALWAYS SLIPSwhen placed vertically in my vise,because the vise racks. To solvethe problem, I made a vise spacerfrom a 1 x 2"x 6" hardwood block,a 1/4" T-nut, a 1/4" x 4" bolt, and acouple pieces of 3/4" dia. dowel. Idrilled a 4" hole in one end of thehardwood block and inserted the T-nut to accept the bolt. Next I drilledtwo 3/4" holes in the bottom of theblock to line up with the bench's

Quick 10 Parts BinLIKE MOST PEOPLE, I keep lots ofdifferent screws, bolts, nails, wasbers,and other small parts in bins. Insteadof paper labels, I hot glue a sample ofthe actual part on the outside of thebin. It's much easier to locate what Ineed by eye than by name. If I everrun out of parts, I can always removethe one on the bin's front!

-Dave Dobrin

dog holes, and glued and screwedtwo 3/4" dowels into them.

To prevent racking, I clamp theworkpiece in the vise, then insertthe spacer into two dog holes on thebenchtop, on the opposite side of thevise from the workpiece. Next, I inserta bench dog into a hole in the vise.As I tighten the vise, I adjust the boltin or out to keep the vise's front jawparallel to the bench. This enablesthe vise to apply even pressure acrossthe full width of the workpiece.

-Bill LaPrade

10 www.AmericanWoodworker.com FEB RU ARY I MA RCH 2009


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Are You ATool Nut?We're woodworkers. And we love our tools! Sure,sometimes we get a little nutty about them, butthat's part of the fun.Have you ever restored a vintage machine justbecause it looked neat? Used an old saw simplybecause it was your Dad's? Bought 20 routersand dedicated each one to a special job?If you're nodding your head, write to us,and tell us your story. We'll pay you $100 ifwe publish it. Please include a photograph.E-mail [email protected] write to us at The Tool Nut, American Woodworkermagazine, 1285 Corporate Center Dr., Suite 180, Eagan ,MN,55121 .

Now, turn a $5.00 rough board into $75.00 worth of high-dollarmolding in just minutes. Make over 500 standard patterns, curved molding,tongue & groove, picture frame stock, any custom design. QUICKLY CONVERTSfrom Molder/Planer to Drum Sander or powerfeed Multi-Blade Ripsaw.Made in U.S.A. 5-Year Warranty. Choose from 12", 18" or 25" models.NEW! SHAPE 3 SIDES IN 1 PASS

NEW 3Slde Molding System turns your Woodmaster into aPOWERFUL 3-SIDE MOLDER thatefficiently & AFFORDABLY

cuts T&G flooring,&


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Thrifty Woodworker Handy Tips for Saving Money

Mop Pad JawsFRUSTRATED WITH MY VISE'Sinability to hold odd-shaped pieces, I

. tried many solutions: v-notched faceplates, cork, bubble wrap, leather,etc., but to no avail. One day I pulledan old mop out of the trash. I peeledoff its bottom pad, cut it in half and

fastened both pieces to the facesof my vise with double-faced tape.It works great with all sorts of oddshaped parts, providing sure grip forsanding, sawing, drilling, filing, chiselingand more.

-Bi l lMonahan

Make Your Own Dowels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .Dowels made from unusual woodspecies are expensive, if you canfind them at all. Making your own onthe router table is simple. For 3/S"dowels, cut 3/S"x 3/S" strips to anylength. Cut a 3/S" rabbet in a pieceof hardwood to use as a guide board.Next, install a 3/S" bullnose bit inyour router table. Secure the guideboard to the router table with featherboards or clamps. For the first pass,cut a 3/S" bullnose on one side of thestock. Rotate the stock 1SO for thefinal pass. Use the same technique tomake any size dowel.

-Bob Addington12 www.Americ::anWoodworker.c::om FEBRUARY/MARCH 2009


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Using Your NoodleWHILE LOUNGING AT THE POOLone afternoon, I had an inspiration. I"borrowed" one of my kids' floatingpool noodles, cut it into sections andused the pieces as universal connectors for vacuum hoses and tool dustports. (A noodle is only about threebucks, so I replaced it the next day).

A noodle has a 1" hole down thecenter, and jt's flexible and compressible. It's about 6' long so youcan make lots of connectors fromone noodle. That can save you a tonof money over buying plastic adaptors.

-Bob Enderle

Bottle Cap Jig Knobs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .I'm always trying to use up scrapsand stuff that would otherwise endup in the trash. My latest devices arejig knobs made with plastic bottlecaps, which have a grippy surface ontheir edges. To make these knobs, allyou need are plastic caps, 1/2" thickplywood, carriage bolts and epoxy.

First, cut plywood discs to fitin the caps using a hole saw. Next,counterbore the plywood disk witha Forstner bit large enough for thebolt's head. Then, drill a hole all theway through the disc and slide thebolt through. Finally, spread epoxyaround the inside of the plastic cap,and place it on the disc/bolt assem-bly. Make sure you put epoxy in thecounterbored area around the bolt'shead.

-Serge Duclos

E-mail your ti p to thriftywoodworker@americanwood wo rker.com or send it to American Woodworker,Thrifty Wood worker, 1285 Corporate Center Drive, Suite 180, Eagan, MN 551 21. Submissions can't bereturned and become our property upon acceptance and pa yment. We may edit submissions and usethem in all print and electronic media.

FE B R U A R Y I MA R CH 20 0 9 www.AmericanWoodworker.com 13


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TheWell-Equipped Shop Our Pick of the LatestTools

StrongLappedMiterJointsIT'S CHALLENGING to producestrong, good-looking cornerjoints, especially with thin plywood. Traditional 45 lock-miterbits are finicky to set up and inthin stock, the finger joints theyproduce can be quite fragile.Inf ini ty Tools' new 2-piece lappedmiter router bit set producessuper-strong joints by creatingmore surface area for gluing. Thebits are easy to set up, using theinstructions that are included, andthey produce perfect miter jointsevery time. They're designed foruse with lumber and plywoodfrom 1/2" to 3/4" thick.Source: InfinityTools,www.infinitytools.com. (877) 872-2487,Lapped Miter Joint Router Bit Set, #55-

505, $109.

Coping Sled for Cabinet DoorsWHEN USED on a router table with cope and stick(rail and stile) router bits, Inf ini ty Tools'new ProfessionalCoping Sledmakes fast workof cabinet doorjoints. Stock up to5-3/4" wide can beeasily clamped on, andat over five pounds, thesled's sheer heft helps toabsorb vibration and ensureprecise cuts. A Lexan visor runsagainst the fence and keeps thesled's base away from the spinning bit. It also guards your hands and protectsyou from any debris. The sled's 3/8" thick aluminum base is tapped, so you canattach the optional 3/4" miter bar and run the sled in the table's miter slot.Source: Infinity Tools, www.infinitytools.com. (877) 872-248, Professional Coping Sled,#COP-l 00, $150; Miter Bar, #COP-MB1, $20.

14 www.AmericanWoodworker.com FEB R U A R Y I MAR CH20 0 9


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COLLETEXTENSION

Trim RouterAlso Goes HorizontalTHE NEW MFK 70 0 TRIM ROUTER from Festool easilytransforms from a vertical to a horizontal position in afew simple steps-no tools required.The horizontal position is ideal for routing edge trim flush with a top. Therouter's extra-deep base and handle offer plenty of support and make the router easier to control. You're muchless likely to tip the MFK 700 in either orientation thanany other similar router. The base has a fully integratedport for dust extraction. A detachable roller bearingallows you to make a flush cut using bitswithout bearings.Speed control electronics assure smooth starts and constantspeed under load, a nice feature whenit's time to rout tough woods like oak.The 6-amp,4.2 lb. router comes with1/4" and 8mm collets. Depth ad justmentsare accurate to 1/10 mm (about 1/256").Source: Festool, www.festoolusa.com . (888)337-8600, MFK 700 EO Trim Router Set, $510.

No More Splintered EdgesFREUD'S NEW Quadra-Cut router bits produce routed profiles with little or no tear ou t or fuzz, even on cross -grain cuts.These unique,patented bits employ four cutting edges instead of two. The large profile cutters remove most of the stock with an upshear cut. Then a pair ofdownshear cutters makes the final cut to produce an ultra clean edgewith no fuzz or splinters at the top surface.

Freud now offers 44 bits with this unique 4-cutter geometry.Theseprofiles include roundover, ogee, beading, table edging, and more. Allof the bits are coated with Perma-SHIELD permanent non-stick coatingto reduce friction and resin adhesion .Source: Freud, www.freudtools.com. (800) 472-7307.



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TheWell-Equipped Shop

Second Bevel=Longer LifeFREUD IS problem-solvingagain with a new design forstraight bits. Their DoubleGrind bits have a unique sec-ondary bevel for better chipclearance. The benefit : the bitruns cooler, and that equalslonger life. Other features ofthe bits are Freud's TiCo highdensity carbide with titani um, Tri-Metal brazing for astronger, more impact resistant bond of the carbide, anda Perma-SHIELD non-stick

coating for further reducing friction.Source: Freud, www.freudtools.com. (800) 427-7307, Double Grind Straight Bits, $15 to $55.

Versatile Door-MakersTHESE SHAKER-STYLE router bits from

Inf inity Tools are incredibly versatile,because you can use them to make doors ofall sizes, from small cabinet doors to giant entrydoors. Their straight double-sided 15 bevels createthe same profile of both sides of the door, no matter thethickness, from 3/4" to 1-3/4".You can even offset the panelgroove, to create a more dramatic effect.

The 2-bit set includes the rail and stile cutters, as well as 1/4" and1/2" slot cutters and bearings. The 3-bit set adds the 22-1/2panel-raising bit. Use the extended tenon cutter to make long rail tenons so youcan create the strong mortise-and-tenon joints that passage and entrydoors require.Source: Infinity Tools, www.infinitytools. com. (877) 872-2487,2-Piece 15 ShakerMatched Rail & Stile Set, #91-525, $169; 3-Piece 15 Shaker entry & Passage DoorMaking Set, #00-525, $199; Extended Tenon (utter, #91-525TC, $34.90.

Longer-lasting BitsARE YOU TIRED oftearout and ridges in your routed edges? Do yougo through expensive bits way too fast? Then you'll love Amana Tool'snew In-Tech router bits. In-Tech bits feature replaceable knives made ofa harder sub-micro grade carbide than the carbide used on standardbrazed router bits.This higher grade of carbide significantly increasesthe bi t 's life and makes the bits ideal for use in ha rder types of materialssuch as MDF and chipboard.The bits are priced about the same as standard brazed carbide bits, and will last up to four times longer, accordingto Amana. Because the blades are replaceable, the qua li ty and accuracyof your cuts stay the same. At the first sign of dulling or a ding in yourrouter bi t you simply unscrew the blades and install new ones. The bitshave a 1/4" shank and come in 9 popular profiles.They are sold individually starting at $16.88 and replacement blades start at $3.08.Source: Amana Too l,www.amanatool.com . (800) 445-0077, In-Tech SeriesReplaceable Knife Rou ter Bits.

16 www.AmericanWoodworker.com FEB R U A R Y I MAR CH 20 0 9


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Extreme Block PlanesTWO NEW LOW-ANGLE block planes from Veritas are beautifulmarriages of fine art and sound engineering.Under each shiny,streamlined exterior lies a very serious tool-one that shouldplease even the most demanding woodworker.

The NX60 (top) and DX60 (bottom) are Lee Valley'sfirst offerings in a planned line of premium planes.Both are essentially the same: they have a 12bed angle, an adjustable mouth, and a Norrisstyle mechanism that combines depth-of cut and lateral adjustments. Both planes areequippped with extremely durable A2-steelblades with pre-lapped backs.All theadjusting hardware is stainless steel.The difference between the two models is intheir bodies.The NX60 is made from a corrosion-resistant material-nickel-resist ductile iron-while the DX60 is .made from regular ductile iron and has a die-cast levercap. Extra mass is always good in a small plane, andboth weigh a hefty 1-3/4 Ibs . Boy, do they feelgood in your hands.Whenever you use onethese babies, you're going for a real ride.Source: Lee Valley, www.leevalley.com (800)871-8158, Veritas NX60 Premium Block Plane,#05P70.11 , $279; Veritas DX60 Block Plane,#05P70.01, $179.

Feature-Packed1/4" Trim RouterWHETHER YOU 'RE TRIMMING laminate,doing inlay work,or just mort ising a hinge,Makita's new 1/4" laminate trimmer is up tothe task. This tr immer offers a number ofimprovements that make it more powerfuland easier to use. Rack and pinion depthadjustment allows precise control for settingbi t height. The transparent base provides aclear view of your work. The 4-amp motordelivers 20% more power and 30,000 rpm.Ergonomic improvements include slimdesign, a soft rubber grip and a power cordthat has been moved to the top, so it's out ofthe way. This new trimmer is almost 1-1/2"shorter than the previous model and itweights only 3.3 Ibs . lncluded with the routerare template and tr immer guides, wrenches, achip deflector, and a straight bit.Source :Makita Industrial Power Tools, makitatools.com, (800) 462-5482, Makita Laminate Trimmer,#3709, $108.

FEB R U A R Y I MAR CH20 0 9 www.AmericanWoodworker.com 17


18/84

TheWell-Equipped Shop

A Slider to LoveFESTOOL'S NEW Kapex KS 120 10" sliding compound mitersaw is proof that great things come in small packages. Forexample, most sliding miter saws require a lot of space, up to45" from back to front when the turntable is at 90. This slider,by comparison, measures only 31 ",and it weighs only 471bs.

The KS 120's saw head slides on widely spaced rails, tominim ize side-to-side play when the head is extended. Fullyadjustable, dual lasers define the cut. According to Festool,dust extraction up to 91 % effic iency can be achieved.

The bevel adjustment mechanism is, in a word, superb.Simply release the lock and dial the control lever, which isperfectly located on the front of one extension rail. Theadjustment is counter spring balanced, so the head tiltseffortlessly in both directions and stays in position at anyangle, even when it isn't locked.The bevel scales are super-sized and genuinely easy to read.Bevel capacity is 4]0 left and right. Miter capacities are50left and 60right . The miter angle controllever/lockldetent overridemechanism operates intuitively, and the pointer includes guides for accurately setting 112 positions.

Power is supplied by a 13 amp motor with variable speed control forcutting different materials, constant feedback to maintain blade speedunder load, and soft-start technology to prevent wrist-wrenching bladejumps. Also included are a high-quality carbide blade, dual-height quickrelease adjustable fences, a quick-release hold-down clamp and an angletransferring device for on-site work. The KS 120 crosscuts boards up to 12"wide. Standard thickness capacity is 3-1/2", but the blade can also be repositioned to cut 4-3/4" wide boards on edge and miter 6-5/8" wide crownmoldings at 45 when they're nested between the bed and the fence.Source: Festool, www.festoolusa.com. (888) 337-8600, Kapex KS 120 SlidingCompound Miter Saw, #561 287, $1300.

18 www.AmericanWoodworker.com FEB RUA R Y MA RC H 2009

Versatile Systemfor EngravingAMANA'S IN-GROOVE InsertEngraving bi ts are designed for makingsigns, lettering, and engraving using aCNC machine. They're engineered soyou can quickly change inserts withoutremoving the bit from the CNC, minimizing down time. There are 30 differen t insert knives that fit either a 1/4"shank tool body or a 1/2" shank toolbody. The tool bodies are balanced tominimize vibration, and the industrialquality insert knives are very long lasting and produce crisp, clean cuts,according to Amana. They're ideal forcutting laminated materials, veneers,

MDF, plastics, wood andsolid surface.Source: Amana Tool,www.amanatool .com.(800) 445-0077, 1/4" ToolBody #RC- 1075, $50; 1/2"Tool Body #RC -1076, $50;

Inserts $22 ea.


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F o r r e s t . & . . l ' ~ ~iSerious woodworkers count onAmerican-made Forrest sawblades for smooth , quiet cuts ,everytime ..without splinteringscratching or tearouts. No matterwhat your application, Forrestblades are simply the best moneycan buy. That 's why discriminating craftsmen prefer them!"[Your blades] cut true, with novibration. I can say with confidencethat Forrest blades are the best. "Carl Stude - Burbank, CAOur Most PopularSaw Blades:Woodworker II - This awardwinning all-purpose blade is thefinest of its type.Chop Master - Produces perfectmiters with smooth edges ...andno bottom splinters.Ask for Forrest blades at a fine

dealer or retailer, order online,or call the factory directly. Yoursatisfaction is guaranteed ...oryour money back!

FORREB i~ F i C 1 t ~ f : I ~~ . . .Sil'\ntlMwww.ForrestBlades.com1-800-733-7111(In NJ, call 973-473-5236)

~ J P gThe Ultimate Woodworking Tool.

Epilog Laser 1.888.437 .4564 [email protected] www.epiloglaser.com/amerlcanww.htm


20/84

Tool Nut Tools Our Readers Love

Dome-TopDiscoveryREMEMBER YOUR FIRST ROUTER?I still have mine-a classic Stanleydome-top from the 1960s. (It's theone sitting on the bench, above). Itwas the only router we had in theshop I apprenticed in. I loved thismachine, particularly the shaft-lockbutton located on top of the dome.When it wore out I thought therouter was done for. There was noway to lock the shaft in order toreplace a bit. A few years later, I founda similar router with an intact button,and a lo t more history, sitting on aforlorn table at a flea market. Oneman's trash became my new treasure.

I had stumbled on a big, green,rusty box labeled "Carter Tools -Electric Plane." Inside was a wellused carpenter's dream-machine of

long ago: a handheld planer powered by a dome-topped routermotor. Wouldn't you know, thatmotor was a dead ringer for myStanley! Taking this prize home, Iunscrewed the dome, removed thebutton, put it in my router, and wasback in business.

Turns out the green box was totedaround for years by a carpenter whoworked in a hospital and primarilyused the planer for fitting doors.

The planer is an exquisite piece ofengineering. It has a fully adjustablefence, a helical cutter, and a front solethat adjusts up and down to regulatethe depth of cut.

I've no idea how old the CarterElectric Plane is- maybe one of youcan help me out here-but it has anillustrious pedigree. A fellow namedRay L. Carter is often credited with

20 www.AmericanWoodworker.com FE B R U A R Y I MAR CH 2 0 0 9

having invented the router back inthe early 19205. In the early 19305, hisbusiness, the R. L. Carter Co., wasacquired by the Stanley Works, whereit operated as the R. L.Carter divisionand made the Electric Plane. Stanleymade dome-top routers for manyyears, but sold the line to Bosch inthe 1980s. Compared to new routers,the most striking feature of these oldStanleys is their bodies; they'reentirely aluminum and have gracefully aged to a beautiful pewter color.

Not long after my flea market find,I stumbled on another old Stanleydome-top (it's the router to the leftof the planer), and added it to mygrowing collection. My originalmachine is still going strong, but Ifigured that someday I'd be lookingfor yet another button!

-Tom Caspar


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Woodworkers ShowcaseShow Us Your Stuff!Share your work with fellow woodworkers across thecountry and around the world.As woodworkers, we love to build things, but we also love toshare our work and the ideas behind them .American Woodworke rMagazine has a new department called "Woodworker'sShowcase." We're looking for projects that range from thepractical to the fantastic.Email your digital images along with a briefdescription of each piece to:[email protected] mail a disc with images to:American Woodworker MagazineWoodworker's Showcase1285 Corporate Center Drive, Suite 180Eagan,MN 55121The description should includewoods used, oinery, type offinish and any story behind thepiece. For tips on taking highquality digital photos of yourwork, check out our web page:www.americanwoodworker.com/phototips

DEFINITION:A computer-controlled, multi-function shop tool forrouting, drilling, carving, machining, sawing,grooving, turning, joint making, engraving, signmaking and intricate cutting of wood, plastic andaluminum .... .We call itBuddy

The newShopBot PRS alpha BT32 "Buddy" is here.Call or visit us online to learn more about the latesthigh-performance CNC systems from ShopBot.

EVERYDAY LOW PRICESOA ! ~BmNDY B ~ . D P .Miter Saw Stand T1732 AdjustablE?B5T07 $119 .99 BST08 $99 .99 Rolling StandoJf! $129 99 oJf! $109.99IIACBINDY .' IIACBINDY'L173SA Dust Collector k DC1700 Portable Air1HP Mobile Tabletop Cleaner & Dust CQllector/ll'C..l!ocIuut...:z., $159.9923 Ga Micro Pin Coil Roofing NailerNailer P630 Shoots RN45AB Sequential orbetween 1/2" to 1-3/16" Bump fire trigger. Fastner '23 Gauge Pins $59.99 length 3/4" to 1-3/4"Maintenanee Kits are also available Magazine angle 15 to 18

/ l i ! e . J ! . ~ ~ / l l ~ $49.9918 Ga Brad Nailer '\ . ' 22 Ga Long Nose r 'B630 Shoots upto 2" ' - UPholstery'StaP le r , il l i!!!I.rF630 Shoats upto 1-1/4" U630L with ex:ra lang.

~ q - 3 0 $ ~ 9 ! l 9 81:30 $39.99 nose . u t o m a t l c a l l ~ adjust"for fastnerFQ ~ _ \ I j length between 3/8 to 1/2Maintenance Kits are also available Maintenance Kits are a.lso availablewww.toolmarts.com1-800-735-8665


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My Shop Where Our Readers Live

My First ShopI'M A 20-YEAR-OLD college student at Oklahoma State University inStillwater.My shop had its beginning acouple of years ago,when I was stillliving at home in Enid. My Mom saidthat I could park my pickup in the

garage, or have a little woodworkingshop in the same space. A young toolnut, I had already acquired a prettygood collection of woodworking tools,so it was an easy choice.My truckwould stay outside.Now, when the

weekends come, I headstraight to my parent'shouse and my garage shop.

Eve r since I was a child,I've been obsessed withbuilding and fixing things.I've taught myself for themost part and I've learnedfrom others. Last summerI go t a job working for acabinetmaker inWaukomis, OK. It was agreat experience thatadded many new tech

niques to my woodworking skills. And with the extramoney I made, I was able to buy aMy new tablesaw was Christmas giftfrom my parents. Ibought most of myother tools with money earned fromwoodworking projects.

22 www.AmericanWoodworker.com FEB R UA RY MAR CH20 0 9

My parent's one cardinal rule for allowingme to use their garage for my shop is thatI always leave room for my mom's car.

new miter saw, router, router table,nail gun, planer and a bandsaw.1stillkeep in touch with the cabinetmaker-he gives me off-cuts that are abother to him, but perfect for me.

Lately I've turned my garagebased hobby into a small business,doing woodworking projects mostlyfor neighbors and friends:bookcases,small cabinets, picture frames andsuch. After I graduate from college,my goal is to have my own shop, outfitted with more tools than I cancount. My dream is to save enoughmoney to buy the cabinetmaker'sshop where I learned so much. Butuntil then, I'll keep working in my"Mom-and-Pop" shop.

Tell Us AboutYour Shop

Jordan RiddleStillwater, OK

Send us photos of your shop, a layoutdrawing and a description of whatmakes your shop interesting. Tell us whatyou make in it and what makes yourshop important to you. If "My Shop"features your shop, you'll receive S100.

E-mail your entry tomyshop(dJamericanwooclworker,comwith digital photos attached. Or mailyour description with prints or digitalphotos on a disc to My Shop,American Woodworker, 1285Corporate Center Drive, Suite 180,Eagan, MN 55121. Please include yourphone number. Submissions canno tbe returned and become our propertyon acceptance and payment. We mayedit submissions and use them in allprint and electronic media.


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Coming Soon!

Spring 2009 issueOn newsstands this February

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New mini-LignoHigh PerformanceLow-cos tFor hobbyists andwoodwo rkersto avoid frustratingmoisture problems.


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ToolTalk Buying Advice for Shop Gear

Porter-Cable's OmnijigJoinery SystemThis innovative jig makes routing dovetails a pleasure.By Bruce KiefferLOADED WITH user-friendly features and available in 16" and 24"models, Porter-Cable's new OmnijigJoinery System is a significantlyupdated version of the venerable P-COmnijig (see Sources, page 27) .Thenew 16 " model is equipped with a

fixed-finger routing template that'sdedicated to routing fixed-space halfblind dovetails-the type of dovetailstypically found in production-madedrawers. The 24" model is equippedwith a routing template that hasadjustable fingers.This template

24 ww w.AmerieanWoodworker.com FEB R U A R Y I MAR CH 2 0 0 9

allows routing many different typesof dovetails (right) .A smaller versionof the adjustable-finger template isavailable as an accessory for the 16"Omnijig.Accessory kits and templatesare available for both jigs to allowmaking miniature dovetails, slidingtapered dovetails and box jo ints.A system that worksBoth new Omnijigs are thoughtfullydesigned to make dovetailing easierThe 24" Omnijig (left) creates all of thejoints shown below. Half-blind dovetailsare typically used for drawer fronts.Rabbeted half-blind dovetails createlipped drawer fronts, which hide thedrawer opening. Through dovetai ls areoften used decoratively on casework. Onvariably spaced joints, both the pin andtail widths can vary, and the spacingacross the joint doesn't have to besymmetrical.

VARIABLY SPACEDHALF-BLIND

FIXED SPACEHALF-BLIND

VARIABLY SPACEDRABBETED HALF-BLIND

VARIABLY SPACEDTHROUGH


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than ever. Setup revolves around asimple system of interchangeableparts that are color-coded by dovetail joint type (Photos 1 and 2). Allyou have to do is choose the type ofjoint you want to create and then follow the system.

The system tells you how to orient the routing template and whichstops, bi t and template guide touse. Instructional labels on the jiggive you the sequence of cuts and

Interchangeable Parts

workpiece orientation .The stopsposition the routing template(Photo 3) . Onboard depth gaugeshelp you set the router bi t depth(Photo 4). Both the stops anddepth gauges are adjustable.Dialing in these settings determines the joint's fit. Once you'vego t the stops and gauges set for aparticular jo int type and stockthickness, you can return to thatsetup later with minimum fuss.

TEMPLATEGUIDES

Color Coding

Notable featuresThe heart of the 24" Omnijig is itsadjustable finger template (Photo5). Th is template is flipped or rotated, depending on the dovetailingoperation, so it mounts on the jigfour different ways. Changing fromone orientation to another takesonly seconds.

The template carries 13 adjustablefinger pairs that guide the router.Each finger consists of left- and right-

The Omnijig Joinery System incorporates interchangeable stops,bits and template guides to produce different types of dovetailjoints. Plug in the correct parts and you're ready to rout.

Each joint type is assigned a color and all th e parts used to create that joint are marked. Follow the color-coded setup guideand onboard instructions and you can't go wrong.

Repeatable SetupAdjustable stops fine-tune the routing template's position, todial in perfectly fitting joints. Once the stops are set, th e template automatically returns to that setup for th e next use.

Set-and-Save Bit Depth GaugesOn board ad justable router bit depth gauges allow setting andsaving numerous bit set tings for different types of dovetailsand different stock thicknesses.

FE B R U A R Y I MA R C H 2 0 0 9 www.AmedcanWoodwo:rker.com 2S


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Tool Talk continued

hand parts. The fingers can be positioned and locked down anywhereon the template, or moved out of theway, to create the desired dovetailappearance and spacing. Locking thetwo-part fingers together creates thenarrowest pins (1/2"). Separating thetwo parts widens the pins.The spacing between finger pairs determinesthe tail widths.Locking the fingersside by side creates joints with equally sized pins and tails.

The Omnijig's cam-action leverstake the hassle out of mounting theworkpieces (Photo 6). First, you setthe initial pressure-enough to stabilize the workpiece for clamping.Install the workpiece and turn thelarge knobs at the ends of the clamping bar until the workpiece stays inplace.Then lock it securely with thelever. It's a piece of cake.

The stabilizer bar that mountsdirectly in front of the routing template serves three functions. In addition to supporting the router anddeflecting chips and sawdust to thefloor or into the dust port accessory,it 's a billboard for the onboardinstructions (Photo 7) .Creating jointsVariably spaced th rough dovetailjoints are routed in two steps (see"Through Dovetails," page 27) .Theworkpiece is always positioned vertically, with a horizontal backer boardmounted directly behind, to preventblowout. First, you rout tails in oneboard, using a dovetail bit. This boardis called the tailboard, because of thetail-shaped sections the dovetail bi tcreates.To rout matching pins on theother board (the pinboard), you flipthe routing template so the fingers'pointed ends will guide the cut. Youalso switch to a straight bi t and theprescribed template guide.

Fixed-space half-blind dovetails(also called single-pass dovetails) arecreated with one setup (see "Half-

Adjustable Finger Routing TemplateTwo-part fingers allow creating virtually any dovetail spacing. Their U-shaped endsare used to rout the tails; their pointed ends are used to rout the pins.

Effortless Clamping.Cam-action levers and coarsely machined bearing faces make it easy to clamp workpieces in position.

Router SupportThe stabilizer bar supports the outboard side of the router base, so the router won'ttip forward during operation and gouge the workpiece. The bar also deflects chipsdown and provides dust collection when combined with the optional dust port.

26 www.AmericanWoodworker.com FEB RU A R Y MAR CH 2 0 0 9


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Through Dovetails

For through dovetails, th e first step is torout tails on th e en d of one board, usingth e dovetail bit and the template guideprescribed by the system. A backer boardprevents blowout.

Blind Dovetails," above, right}.The jigautomatically offsets the boards anda stop bar limits the cut's depth.Routing creates a modified version ofthrough dovetails on the verticalboard and stopped blind dovetails onthe other board.The vertical boardsform the drawer sides; the horizontalboards form the drawer front andback. That means the boards must beoriented carefully-both mountinside-face out.Living with the OmnijigThe Omnijig comes with an excellentowner's manual and an informativeDVD , and I was successfully routingdovetail joints within a short periodof time. But as with any woodworking apparatus, I discovered that theOmn ijig has its quirks.

As I expected, the factory settingsfor the stops and depth gauges wereclose, but they all had to be finetuned. Surprisingly, the 3/8" deepvariable-spaced half-blind dovetailsturned out to be closer to 5/16"deep, once everything was adjusted

The second step is to rout pins on th eother board, which is mounted in thesame position as the first board. Flip th erouting t emplate. switch to a straigh t bit,change th e template guide, and go.

for a close f i t-one minor consequence of using a system for multiple applications. (You raise or lowerthe bit to adjust the fi t of half-blinddovetails, so their final depth is whatyou get; it may not be exactly whatyou want.) According to Porter-Cable,this variation is with in tolerance, asthe depths specified for half-blinddovetails are approximate.

I also discovered that it's important for the router base to be exactlycentered on the collet (see Sources).If the base is off-center, the bit won'tbe centered in the e m p l a t ~ guide,because the template guide mountsto the base. Misalignment can causefi t problems in the joint if you orientthe router differently for successivepasses or rotate it back and forth asyou navigate around the fingers.Even with the base plate centered, it'sgood practice to always orient therouter the same way for every pass .

Backer boards virtually eliminateblowout on the back side of theworkpiece. I got the best resultswhen I removed the backer after

Half-Blind Dovetails

To rout fixed-space half-blind dovetails,lock the fingers tightly together and position one board vertically and the otherhorizontally. Install the stop bar and routboth boards simultaneously.

routing each board and re-jointed it'sedge, to remove the bi t marks.

I'm a stickler for symmetry, so I likevariably spaced dovetails that areuniformly spaced. I rip a length ofscrap stock to match the spacingbetween dovetails that I want. I cutthis strip into short pieces and insertone piece between each pair of fingers on the template.To uniformlywiden the pins, I mil l scrap to thedesired thickness, cut it into piecesand insert those pieces on-edgebetween the two-part fingers.SOURCES Porter-Cable, ww w.deltaportercable.com.

(888) 848-5175,24" Omnijig JoinerySystem, #77240, $599; 24" Dust Shroud,#77244, $45; 24" Half-B lind/Sli dingDovetail Template, #77248, $119; 16"Omnijig Joinery System, #55160, $429; 16"Variable Finger Template, #55161, $199;16" Dust Shroud, #55164, $35.

Woodcraft,ww w.woodcraft.com. (800)225-1153, Router Base Plate withCentering Pin, #144931, $25.99.

FEBRUARY I MARCH 2009 www.AmericanWoodworker.com 27


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School NewsWoodLINKSLinking Woodshop Studentswith the Wood IndustryBy David Radtke

The Next Generation

"THESE DAYS, many students don'tsee a clear connection between highschool and a career," says MarkRoberts, a teacher in Mesa, Arizona.That's why he and many other teachers across the count ry are volunteersfor WoodLiNKS, a nonprofit organization that facilitates the building ofprograms between the wood industry and schools.

WoodLiNKS' goal is to establish abig-brother relationship amongindustry, schools and teachers, inorder to provide encouragement

WoodLINKS programs bring students and industry representatives together,learnlnghow to set up and use high-tech industrial machines is II core benefit for students.Here, Chris Dolbow demonstrates Installing a blade on an Altendorf sliding tablesaw,

and training for students, and tohelp them learn about career opportunities that are available in thewood industry.WoodLiNKS staffmembers and volunteers are dedicated to producing students who arequalified and certified for employment in the wood industry, as well as

for entry into wood-related post-secondary institutions.

Through WoodLiNKS, studentsreceive special training right at theirschool, in conjunction with their existing woodshop classes. The teachersuse detailed curriculum guidelines toprepare students for jobs in the woodindustry."Along

with learning to usewoodworkingmachines, the students also learngreat people skillsand teamwork,"says Troy Spear, aninstructor atTheodore RooseveltHigh School inKent,Ohio.

WoodLiNKS iscurrently involvedin about eighteenstates.Mark Smith,WoodLiNKS'national director,projects that abouttwenty newschools will join

These students show the results of a WoodLINKS class assignment the programthat combined learning to read technical drawings with learning this year.to use an Industrial shapero

28 www.1Uner icanWoodworker.com FEB R U A R Y MAR CH 2 0 0 9

HowWoodLiNKS WorksWood industry companies contactWoodLiNKS to connect with a localhigh school or technical school, withthe aim of providing new, skilledworkers for their companies. Historyshows that for a WoodLiNKS programto work and thrive, it must be industry driven.But sometimes a teacherwho wants to bring a sharper focuson career training at his or her schoolinitiates the contact."There's anotherimportant ingredient for success,"says Mark Roberts, a long-time advocate for WoodLlNKS."Each individualprogram needs an energetic anddedicated instructor."

The curriculum among memberschools varies, depending on thefocus of the local industry sponsors.Typical industries include cabinetshops, production furniture manufacturers, sheet goods and veneer producers, machine tool manufacturersand custom mi llwork shops.

WoodLiNKS charges a one-timefee to init iate a program. The fee isusually paid by the indust ry sponsor,but sometimes it is shared betweenschool and sponsor. Donations fromthe wood industry and individualsalso help fund the mission. A pro-


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gram such as this takes a concer tedeffort from the school board, teachersand community to be a success. Anew program usually takes two tothree years to get up and running,and WoodLiNKS remains supportiveduring the process.Training for TeachersWoodLiNKS provides in-se rvice tra ining for the teachers.This special training consists of a minimum of 32hours of instruction and exposure toindustry. It is taught in classes at theIWF (International WoodworkingMachinery & Furniture Supply Fair)and AWFS (Association ofWoodworking & FurnishingsSuppliers) wood industry shows.WoodLiNKS pays for transportationand lodging for teachers wh o attend.Troy Spear, who helped get the pro-gram started at his school, says, "Theshows are a real motivator for teachers, and the in-service classes are agreat way to stay in touch with theindustry.The contacts with otherteachers and industry representatives are invaluable."Benefits for the studentsStudents profit beyond a curriculumthat prepares them for jobs in the

Brienna Larrick shows off a project shecompleted through a WoodLINKS program. She designed the piece withAutoCAO and cut out the shapes with aCNC router. After assembling the curvedhoneycomb structure, she used a vacuumpress to glue on the face veneers.

wood industry.Theyhave the advantageof direct contact withtheir industry sponsorand they get to knowindustry representatives who visit theschool to guest-lecture on what's new inthe industry orexplain and demonstrate some of the latest machinery.

Students alsoStudents at East High School in Madison, Wisconsin display"got smarts?" buttons. Students who complete WoodLINKScourses earn certification recognized by the wood industry.

have the opportunityto visit industry sites and observeskilled workers and manufacturingmethods firsthand. Industry partnerships provide opportunities for theschool to purchase some of the newequipment to train students.

Internships and scholarships arealso available to the studentsthrough this close relationship withthe industry."Taking woodshop classes exposed me to a different type oflearning." says Brienna Larrick, a former student at a WoodLiNKS mem-ber high schooL "1 ound satisfactionin producing something tangible,that shows what I've learned. I alsohave a greater appreciation of people wh o work in the wood industry."

Each student earns NationalIndustry Standard certification bycompleting the specialized coursework at his or her school. This certification reflects mastering the skillsand knowledge for entry-level positions, and is recognized by the woodindustry in the United States andCanada. Earning c e r t i f i c a t i o is also abenefit for continuing on to a university or technical college, such asVirginia Tech, where a wide variety ofstudies and career paths are availablefor students interested in wood science, packaging, adhesion chemistryand forest products.Benefits for Industry"As industry professionals, we enjoyopportunities that allow us to workand interact with students and thei rteachers," says Chris Dolbow, product

manager for Altendorf sliding table-saws at Stiles Shop Solutions inGrand Rapids, Michigan ."Studentsare the future of our industry and it'sessential to expose them to the latesttechnology and new manufacturingconcepts. Having better-educatedand technologically-aware studentswill not only increase the industry'spool of qualified employees for theshort term, bu t will also help ourindustry grow for the future."Starting a programIf you work in the wood productsindustry or are an interested teacheror parent and would like to get moreinformation about WoodLiNKS, visitwww.woodlinksusa.org or contactMark Smith, National Director(217) 253-3239 or (217) 621 -4628woodlinksusa@netcare-iLcom ~

Paul Winistorfer, president of WoodLiNKS,speaks at an in-service training meeting.Participating WoodLiNKS teachers com-plete special training in teaching methods and curriculum.



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31/84

AGreat AmericanWoodworker An Artisan's Life Story

PeterB.WallaceA carpenter turnedchairmaker masters aclassic American design.By Spike CarlsenPETER WALLACE HAS A LOT incommon with the Windsor chairs hecrafts: They're solid, yet elegant; theywelcome you with a sense of comfortand authenticity.

These enduring qualities didn'tcome easily. Before carving ou t aniche as one of the premier Windsorchairmakers in America, Wallace

New England writing armchair

labored 30 years as a carpenter. Realizing, at the tenderyoung age of 55, that he was no longer enamored by theheavy lift ing, he decided to shift gears. Though intendingto open a millwork shop at his home in ruralPennsylvania, a series of events led him to the shop of alocal Windsor chair bui lder where he spent a week as anapprentice. After building that first chair, he proceeded tobuild three more at his own shop, and it was then that hediscovered he'd been bitten by the Windsor bug."The firstyear I lost money, the second year I broke even and thethird year I actually turned a profit."

A dozen years later Wallace is still plying his craft. If youneed evidence of his talents, chat with those at ColonialWilliamsburg and the White House who have purchasedhis chairs. Or talk to the gentleman who commissioned

him to craft an exact replica of a Windsor chair he'd fallenin love"with at an antique show-but not with the $60,000price tag.One thing that sets Wallace apart from many of his colleagues is his meticulous attention to traditional detailsand design. He's spent entire days at ColonialWilliamsburg and the Winterthur Museum-repositoriesof the finest Windsor chair collections in America-creating exact measured drawings.He's consulted with NancyEvans, author of the definitive American Windsor Chairs. Ofthe 60-some pieces in his repertoire, all but one is basedon originals. The one exception to his historic faithfulnessis his unique "Nanny Rocker" (page 32). Half rocking chair,half cradle, the design is based on a piece of doll furnituremade in the 1930s. "The traditional Windsors are so gor-

FE B R U A R V I MA R CH20 0 9 www.Americali.Woodworker.com 31


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32 www.AmericanWoodworker.com FEB R U A R Y I MAR CH 20 0 9

geous, it's hard to improveupon them," explains Wallace."Plus I'm better at copying thandesigning."

And given the hundreds ofdifferent antique Windsorchairs from which to copy, howdoes Wallace differentiate theclassic from the clumsy? "The qualities thatmake a Windsor superior are the crisp elegance of theturnings, the graceful line of the carved volutes andknuckles, the overall lightness and flawless proportionsof each part to the whole," explains Wallace.

While Wallace uses power equipment for cutting partsto size and other mundane aspects of his craft-taskswhere master furniture builders of yore would have usedan apprentice-he relies on hand tools for the bulk of hiswork."I've tried various shortcuts and they just don't lookright," explains Wallace."l f you want to build a periodpiece and do a historic reproduction i t has to prettymuch be handwork."

The process begins with crafting the seat, a task forwhich he uses many of the same tools used by wheelwrights (see The Scoop on Windsor Seats, p. 33). Nextcomes turning the legs on a modern lathe and fittingthem into compound-angled holes. He turns the backand arm spindles with the help of a traditional English


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FEB R U A R Y I MAR CH20 0 9 www.AmericanWoodworker.com 33


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A Great AmericanWoodworker

Wilmington,Delaware sidechair, about1780-1795

34 www.Amertoa.,Woodwo:rker.oom FE B R U A R Y I MA R CH 20 0 9

continued

tool called a trapping plane, which is part turning tool andpart hand plane. After fitting the arm and back spindles, hesteam bends and shapes the curved backrest and armcomponents.

Wallace continues to use the traditional woods. Seats aremade of poplar, a wood that's dimensionally stable and readi-ly available in thick, wide planks. He uses maple for legsbecause of its fine grain, hickory for the spindles because ofits strength and ash for the curved parts because of ts easein bending. Since mult iple types of wood are used, traditionalWindsor chairs are frequent ly painted. But about 15% ofWallace's Windsors remain natural wood. For these chairs, heselects woods of exemplary quality - the curly cherry ortiger maple he uses for the seat can cost $250 or more alone.

Most of his career, Wallace has built chairs on a commis-sion basis. He averages about one chair per week, and the6-month backlog in orders attests to his success. But he hasnew areas he'd like to explore-like building furnitureinspired by John Goddard and Job Townsend, of colonialNewpor t, Rhode Island. And while his pieces won't fetchthe record $12.1 million one of their vintage piecesbrought at auction several years back, it will allow him toput his newly learned carving skills to work; skills learned

Three-legged bar stool


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in classes taken f rom a master carver from Russia."I've hadthe wood for a highboy for 3 years, but just haven't beenable to get to it." At 67, Wallace intends to get to it soon.

When asked what advice he'd give aspiring Windsorchair makers, Wallace responds,"lf you look at a Windsorwith a single eye, it looks complicated. But if you look atthe different elements one by one it becomes less daunting. You look at a leg and say 'yeah I could probably turnthat' and then examine the seat and figure you couldsomehow do that. When you break it down element byelement it becomes a lo t more doable."

Wallace offers 1 on-1 and 2-on-1"mini-apprenticeships," which consist of 40 hours of hands-on experienceover a five-day period."Every aspect of building a chair isdemonstrated and explained and then the student isguided through the process, hands-on, from sculpting theseat on," explains Wallace."The class emphasizes watching, then doing- with me, right nex t to the student, giving ongoing guidance." At the end, students walk awaywith a completed chair that Wallace would normally sellfor $950-a superb deal considering tuition is $1,000.

In the end, it's a process that requires skill, patience andpersistence."1 make some of the bestWindsors in the country and I've worked very, very hard at it,"Waliace explains."Some [woodworkers] complain that they've worked twohours on applying a finish and want to find a shortcut tocut their time. My wife will spend eight or 10 hours gettinga finish on a chair. Making one of these is not a simple,weekend job. It takes a lo t of effort and a lo t of work." Butone look at a Wallace chair will tell you it's worth it. A..More ofPeter H.Wallace's work can be seen at www.windsor-chairs.com.Spike Carlsen is author of A Splintered His tory of Wood: Belt Sander Races,Blind Woodworkers and Baseball Bats recently published by HarperCollins.

Amos Hagget-stylerod-back side chair



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36 www.AmericanWoodworker.com FEBRUARY/MARCH 2009

By John EnglishWITH JUST FIVE DIFFERENT PARTSto make, this easy-to-build caddyaccommodates bits with both 1/2" and1/4" shafts. It can be customized tohandle just about any collection.Thecaddy stands solidly on its wide base,stores easily on a shelf or in a cabinet,and is light enough to tote around theshop or take to a jobsite.


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Cut Sliding Dovetails1. Cut the sides and shelves to size.

Cut two 1/4" wide dadoes on theinside face of each side piece (Photo1).Set up the routertable with a 1/2"dovetail bit, raise the bi t 1/2" high,and enlarge the four dadoes, makingsliding-dovetail sockets (Photo 2).Joint the edges of these pieces toremove any tear-out.

2. Use a scrap piece exactly thesame thickness as the two shelves toset up the router table for cuttingtails (Photo 3). Use the same dovetailbi t and leave it at the same height.Adjust the fence so the dovetails areloose enough to slide in the socketswithout using any force.Once you'veachieved the correct fence setting,mill the tails on the real shelves. Glueand clamp the shelves to the sides.Make Shelf Inserts

3.Cut the shelf inserts 5" extralong, to avoid splitting their endswhen you dr ill holes. On each insert,layout the holes according to yourneeds, staying at least 3" from eachend. Use a sharp 17/32" bi t for 1 2"shafts and a 9/32" bi t for 1/4" shafts.These oversize holes make it easier toremove or replace the router bits.Drill all the way through each insert.

4. Run the inserts through a planeror across a jointer to remove any tearout from the dri lling. Trim the insertsto fit on the shelves. I left a 3/8" gapon each end for aesthetics.Assemble the Caddy

5. Cut the handle to size and use a1/4" roundover bit to ease all fouredges.Stop the cut 3" from each end.Install the handle with glue and screws.

6.Cut the base to size and saw thecorners.Rout a decorative profilealong the top edge, then ease theedges with sandpaper. Center thecarcass on the base and attach it withglue and screws.

7.Glue and clamp the inserts ontothe base and shelves (Photo 4).Apply a finish, and load it up! b...

The caddy is held together with slidingdovetail joints.Start by cutting dadoes inthe sides to remove most of the waste.

3Using th e same bit, make test cuts on apiece of scrap until it slides easily into thesockets. Then cut t he real shelves.

Widen th e dadoes into dovetail socketsusing a router table. Steady the workpiecewith a miter gauge.

Glue th e inserts onto the shelves.This twopiece construction creates deep holes forthe bits, so they won't tip over when youtote the caddy around.

HANDLE3/4" x 1-1/2" x 15-3/8"

SIDE

1-5/ 8" #8FH (TYP)

112" DEEPSOCKET

SHELF3/4" x 4-3/4" x 16 "

INSERT3/4" x 4-1/2" x 14-5/8"

OVERALL DIMENSIONS1S-3/4"H x S-3/4"W x 20"L



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-.~,saa:Cl)eu::

Anterican.,(iWoodworkerFree E-NewsletterGet the latest

tool news and ,buying advice shop improvement ideas quick tips

. ( f ) COQ)c ..N >


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Build Your Skills with Lonnie Bird

FEB RUA RY I MA RC H 2009 www.AmericanWoodworker.com 39


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Tambour Router BitsMost tambour doors are held toge ther by a cloth backing or are strung together with wires.Not this one. Working with Amana Tool, I developed a set of three router bits that createslats with interlocking joints that just slide together (see Sources, page 46).

Fig.AExploded View

CUTTING LIST BREADBOX D'",,,n,'ons '05 ib H ,21-7';10 " I I , 13 ' 0 DPARTABCDEFG

NAMESideTop "BaseFrontBack (plywood)Tambour slatsTambour end

QTY.. TH X W X L_ 2 5/8" x 14-1/8" x 9-9/16" (a)5/8" x 8-1/16" x 21-7/16"5/8" x 14-13/16" x 21-1/8"5/8" x 2-11/16" x 19"1/4" x 9-5/16" x 19"16 1/2" x 29/32" x 19-3/16" (b)1/2" x 1-1/4" x 19-3/16"

(a) Make two sides from one 5/8" x 14-1 18"x 20" blank.(b) Make 8 pieces at 112" x 1-15/16" x 20", then rip these in halfto make 16 slats.

40 _.JlmericaJtWooclwodl:er.c:am FEB R U A R Y I MA R CH20 0 9

HERE'S A GREAT PROJECT to introduce you to the art of making a tambour door. I designed this breadbox as aroad test for a set of tambour-makingrouter bits I recently developed. Theproject doesn't require a lot of wood orspecial skills-but you'll learn a lo t aboutusing your router table, because everyjoint is made with a router bit. Onceyou've mastered the technique, you canmake larger tambour doors for a roll-topdesk, computer desk, entertainmentcenter, or a kitchen appliance garage.Use your imagination!Bits You'll NeedTo make the tambours, you'll need a setof three bits: one to shape the faces ofthe slats, one to shape the sockets, and a1/8" roundover bi t for the edges of theend slat (see Sources, page 46).You 'll alsoneed a 1/2" flush tr im bit, a 1/2" dovetailbit, 1/4",9/16" and 5/8" straight bits, andan ogee bit. In addition, you'll need a3/4" o.d. template guide for your router.Shape the TamboursLet's start with the fun part-routing thetambour slats (Photo 1).Make themextra-long for now and cut them tolength after you assemble the case .Thefi t between the tambour 's ball and socket is critical to making a joint that flexeswithout binding. The width of the socketisn't adjustable, but you can adjust thewidth of the ball.

Here's the plan: install the socket bi tin your router table and cut a socket in ascrap piece of wood using the procedure outlined in Photos 5 and 6. Keepthis piece handy for checking yourprogress as you cut the balls.

Making the balls requires a series offour cuts. Install the bit so that its top is1" above the router table. Adjust thefence fo r a shallow cut and make thefirst pass (Photo 2).

Flip the piece end-for-end and makeanother pass (Photo 3). Repeat theprocess on the stock's opposite face.Make the same four cuts in each tambour piece.

Next, reposition the fence to deepenthe cuts (Photo 4). This is the critical stepfor fitting the balls into the socket. Yourgoal is to make the thickest part of the


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The tambour slats are connected by ball and socket joints, whichare made by a special set of router bits. You'll make the slats two ata time from one piece of wood.

First, make a shallow pass with the ball-cutting bit. Caution: Use apush stick and featherboard to keep your fingers out of harm's way.

Flip the piece end for end to make a second ball. Then turn thepiece around to make two more balls on the other side.

Reset the fence to cut all four balls a lit tle deeper. Cutt ing the ballto exact thickness is critical to making a joint tha t flexes properly.

ball about 1/64" shy of 1/4". Since thiscan be difficult to measure, exper imentwith some extra slat pieces and try themou t in your test socket. You'll have to ripthe test pieces in half in order to do this(see Photo 7), so they won't be usable ifthey don't fit. Once you've adjusted thefence to the proper position, shape all ofthe slat stock.

To cut the sockets, rip a 1/4" deepgroove on both edges of each piece ofstock to reduce the strain on the routerbi t (Photo 5). Then mount the socketbi t in the router table and adjust itsheight to 3/8". Position the fence so thatthe socket is centered on the thicknessof the tambour stock. Set up a featherboard to keep the stock firmly againstthe fence, then rout the sockets (Photo6). Rout a socket on the tambour's endpiece (G). Rip each piece of tambourstock down the middle to separate theslats (Photo 7). Finally, soften the sharp

outside edges of the tambour end witha 1/8" roundover bit.Mill Stock for theCaseBegin building the case by gluing upwood for the sides (A), top (B) and base(C). Note that the grain of the sides runsvertically (Fig .A).This provides strengthfor the sliding dovetails that join thesides to the top and ensures that seasonal expansion and contraction in the top,base, and sides occurs in the same direction. Mill one piece of wood for bothsides (see Cutting List, page 40); you'll cutit in half later. Plane this piece about1/32" thicker than its final dimension.Later on, use a hand plane or sander tosmooth the sides and fit them to thegrooves in the base.

Rip the top and base approximately1 2" wider than the finished dimensions.If there's any blowout on the back edgeafter routing dovetail sockets or

grooves, you'll be able to cut if of f later.Mill wood for the front (0). Leave this

piece 1" extra-long.Mill wood for the tambour slats (F)

and end (G) .Rip the slat stock wideenough to make two tambours fromeach piece (see Cutting List, page 40).This provides an extra margin of safetyby adding mass and posit ioning yourhands further away from the bi t whenyou rout the pieces.Also, cut the slatsand end 1" extra-long. You'll trim themto fi t later on. Make a couple of extrapieces for testing your setups.Rout theTambour GrooveMake a template from 1/4" plywood toguide your router (Fig. 0). The dimen-sions given here for the templateassume that you 'll use a 9/16" dia.straight bi t and a 3/4" o.d. templateguide. Use a compass to draw thegroove's arc onto the plywood (Photo

FEBRUARY/MARCH 2009 _.11 .knl . . . oJlliJJ.W;_ 41


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Begin making the sockets by removing some of the waste on thetablesaw.

Finish the sockets on the router table.

/1

8Rip each blank down the middle, creating two tambour slats. Begin building the case by laying out a semi-circular template.

This will guide your router in making the grooves that house thetambour door.

8). After drawing the arc, extend thelayout line another 1".This extra inchprovides you with a starting area forsmoothly entering the cut. Bandsawthe template to the layout lines and fairthe curve with sandpaper.

Next, apply double-faced woodturn-er's cloth tape to the template. (Thistape adheres far better than ordinarycarpet tape; see Sources, page 46).Position the template on the workpiece. Apply pressure to the templateusing a handscrew or deep-reachclamp to improve the tape's adhesion.Remove the clamp. _

Rout the tambour groove on oneend (Photo 9). Rout counterclockwisearound the template to ensure that thebushing stays in contact with the tem-plate. Remove the template and position it on the other end of the workpiece. Be careful, because a mistakehere could really mess things up. Note

that you're making a left side and aright side; when you position the tem-plate the second time, measure fromthe same edge of the workpiece (thefront) that you used before.Shape the Ogee CurveThe ogee is composed of two arcs; drawthem on a 1/4" plywood template usinga compass (Figure C). Bandsaw the curve,then light ly smooth the surface withsandpaper to remove the sawmarks.

Crosscut the sides to exact length.Trace the template onto the sides of thebox.Bandsaw the sides, staying 1/16"away from the line. Secure the templateto the workpiece with double-facedtape; remember to allow the templateto overhang the stock exactly 1" at eachend of the curve.Tape the template tothe outside surface of the right sidepiece and the inside surface of the leftside piece. Why? For the safest cut and

42 _.AmericaDWoodworJr.er.c:om FE B R U A RY I MA R CH 20 0 9

the best results, you should always pusha router counter-clockwise around theoutside edge of a workpiece, and godownhill with the grain. Putting thetemplate on opposite sides follows thisrule. Apply extra pressure to the tapewith a clamp, remove the clamp, thenflush trim the sides (Photo 10).Rout the Sliding DovetailsBegin by mounting a 1/2" dovetail bi t inthe router table; adjust its height to 3/8"(Photo 11).You'll rout the top piece first,so position the fence exactly 1" from thecenter of the bit. Make certain that thefence is parallel to the miter gauge slotby taking a measurement at each end ofthe fence. Fasten a backer board to themiter gauge. Mark a pair of lines on thefence to indicate the stopping points(Photo 12). Also, mark the top piece 1"from the front edge to indicate wherethe sockets stop.


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Fasten the template to one of th e box's sides using double-facedtape. Put a template guide in your router and cut the goove.

The sides and top of the breadbox are joined with sliding dovetails. First, set up a dovetail bit to rout the sockets in the top.

TEMPLATE

Use another template and a flush-trim bit to shape th e ogeecurves on the breadbox's sides.

Using a scrap piece, mark the router table's fence to indicatewhere the bit stops cutting.The dovetail sockets are stopped at thefront to hide the joints.

Cutting the right-hand socket isstraightforward, but you must feed theleft-hand socket from left to right. whichis not the normal direction. Clamp theworkpiece to the miter gauge to prevent the bit from pushing the stockaway from the fence and spoiling thecut (Photo 13). Feed the workpieceuntil the layout line for the socket'sstopping point aligns with the mark onthe fence. If you cut the top extra-wideearlier, rip it to exact width.

Fig. B Interior of Side

Next, cut the tails on the top edge ofthe breadbox sides.This operation usesthe same dovetail bit, but the stock ispositioned on end and fed past the bittwice, once on each face. During setup,keep the fence and table openings assmall as possible and position most ofthe bit inside the fence.

The depth of this cut determines thefit of the tail within the socket; a largercut creates a narrower tail and vice-

L1r-3/8"

r- 1I2"~ TAIL

1/4"

~ - - - - - - ~ l ~ - - - - - - ~

9/16" WIDE,1/4" DEEP GROOVE

1/8" DEEP GROOVE FOR BACK

118" DEEP GROOVEFOR FRONT

FE 8 R U A R Y f MAR CH 20 0 9 ww w.AmericanWoodworker.com 43


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Rout the sockets, stopping the cut when a mark on the workpiecealigns with the pencil mark on the fence.

Rout the tails. Use a push block to hold the workpiece tightagainst the fence and to keep your fingers out of harm's way.

Assemble the top and sides temporarily.Center this assembly onthe base in order to mark the location of stopped grooves that willreceive the sides.

Using a bit that's the same width as the sides, make a test cut In ascrap piece to make sure the grooves are the correct distance fromthe edge.

versa.Test the setup with a sampleboard before making the cut on theworkpiece.The fi t of the tail within thesocket should be snug, bu t not tight.During assembly, the wood will swellslightly as glue is applied; if the tail istoo large, it will bind in the socket andmake it difficult to assemble. Onceyou 're satisfied with the setup,cut thetails (Photo 14).Rout Grooves in the BaseRout a pair of shallow grooves in thebase to accept the sides and back (Fig .A) .To stay hidden, the grooves startthe back edge of the base and stopbefore reaching the front edge.Although the sides are fastened to thebase with screws from underneath, thegrooves position the sides and keepthem in alignment.

Mark the location of these groovesdirectly from the top to ensure that they

are precisely positioned. First, dry-assemble the sides to the top. Then center theassembly on the base by measuring witha combination square (Photo 15).Take ameasurement at each end; if there is anydifference, adjust the square, shift theassembly, and measure again.

Next, mount a 5/8" straight bi t in therouter table and adjust its height to1/8".Position the fence, make a test cutin a scrap piece,and check the groove'slocation (Photo 16). Move the fence ifnecessary, then rout the base using thesame method of stopping the cuts asyou used on the top.Square the frontend of each groove with a chisel. Rip thebase to exact width.RoutGrooves for the FrontThe front piece sits in shallow grooves inthe sides.Use the same bit, set at thesame height, as you used in the laststep. These grooves are also stopped;

44 _ - -W -W i l a ' u '" _ FEBRUARY/MARCH 2009

they begin at the top and end at thetambour groove. Check their distancefrom the back edge of the side (Fig. B),then set the fence to this distance.

Rout the right side first. Mark theright-hand side of the fence to indicatewhere the cut stops. Mark the top toindicate how far you ought to push.Rout the groove.

The left side requires a differentmethod.Mark the left-hand side of thefence to indicate where the cut starts.Mark the workpiece to indicate wherethe cut should begin and clamp a stopblock to the fence at the appropriatedistance. Position the workpiece againstthe stop block and plunge it onto thebit. Then feed the stock from right to leftin the usual manner (Photo 17).Shape the Top and BaseNext, shape the decorative ogee profilealong the edges of the top and base.


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LOCATION OFGROOVE

Cu t a similar groove for the breadbox's front board.This siderequries a plunge cut. Drop the workpiece onto the bit, then feedin the normal direction.Use a stop block to gu ide the plunge.

Rout the end grain first, then the long-grain.Th is method minimizes tearout at the corners.

Fig. C Ogee Curve layout Fig.D

Set up a bit to cut an ogee profile on the top and base.

Rout stopped grooves in the top and base for a plywood back.Rout similar grooves in the sides, cutting all the way through.

rTambour GrooveTemplate

5-25132"J ALIGN WITH B?JTZM /

1"

6-15116"

- - - - - - - ~ ~ ~ h , . - - -':--== 7-3/16" ~ /""':--==----- 14-118" --------r':. j

__ : : : ~ - ? _____L __I 1"

I. 11-9/16" .1Fig. E Rear View and Underside ofTop

SOCKET 112"

7" 1L...f- 11FEB R U A R Y I MA R CH 2 0 0 9 _ . J Ime . r i c aaWooc lwo I l . e l COll I 45


46/84

Drop the back into place,.then attach toe basewith four screws,just to make sure everything fits OK.

Make s u r e t h ~ doorslictes without binding, then remove the base.' Disassemble th e door so you can finish its pieces separately.

Adjust the bit's height so that thesquare portion of the bi t is 1/16" abovethe table (Photo 18). Adjust the fenceso that it's even with the bit's guidebearing. Minimize the fence opening.Rout the end grain first (Photo 19) andfinish with the long grain edges.Rout Grooves for the BackThe box's back (E) slides in a 1/4" widegroove in the sides and is housed in agroove in the base and top (Fig. A). Allthe grooves are the same depth and dis-tance from the pieces' outside edges:Rout the grooves all the way down thesides. Rout stopped grooves in the topand base (Photo 20).Assemble the BreadboxAssemble the breadbox without glue totake final measurements for the front,back and tambour slats.Cut the slats

1/16" shorter than the distance betweenthe bottoms of the tambour grooves sothe tambour opens smoothly.

For the final assembly, position thesides vertically with their back edges flaton your workbench. Put glue on thefront board, install it in place, and clampthe assembly together . Apply glue spar-ingly to the dovetails. Then slide on thetop, until the mating surfaces are flushat the back (Photo 21). Assemble andinstall the tambour slats (Photo 22).Slide the back into position (Photo 23),and attach the base with four screws(Photo 24).

Before apply ing finish, remove thebase and disassemble the door so thatthose parts can be finished separately.Once the finish is dry, wax both tambourends and the tambour groove.Reassemble the box, bu t don 't glue onthe base. D..

46 www.Americ:anWoodworker.c:om FEB R UA RY MAR CH20 0 9

SOURCES Amana Tool, www.amanatool.com.(800) 445-0077, Tambour set, #54314,$180; the set includes three bits thatmay be purchased separately: Bit 1,#54310, $77; Bit 2, #54312, $76; Bit 3,#49498, $32. Ogee bit, #49202, $39. Craft Supplies,www.woodturnersctalog.com. (800)551-8876, Double Face Tape, #028-0100, $21/108 ft.

Lonnie Bird,long-time woodworker,author and teacher,runs a school in

East Tennessee. Youcan find out moreabout his school atwww.lonniebird.com.


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~ 9 r e . t Americanroodworkero m ~ S H i S D r e . - ! r n P r o i * ; tRouter-MadeEntry Doors ' ! i 'J l" t !o_1Ameri",n Masterworks.ANewMorris ChairJllll'Every issue brings you: Project plans with photos and diagrams Techniques to build your skills Tool reviews and buying advice Shop tested hints, and tips Secrets of success from expert

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Create extraordinary frameswith ordinary router bits.

ByTim JohnsonHER E' S A FUN WAY to save money, be creative, make something use-ful, and use up scrap stock: make your own picture frames. You can startfrom scratch and have finished frames in a day or less, and the onlytools you need are a tablesaw and a router table. The challenge is tocreate unique profiles using the router bits you already have.

The frames and instructions that follow will get you started.Youprobably don't have all the sanC bits (see photo, page SO), bu t thatdoesn't matter. Just substitute and experiment. You'll find that a littletinkering yields an amaz ing range of profiles. .-Most frames are made using small stock, so be sure to work safely./ .Always use guards, featherboards and push sticks. Never use stock lessthan 12" long.Create profiles on long stock; then cut individual frame"iece) f rom the profiled stock.Similarly, use wide stock to create thinpieces; rout the profile, then cut ~ thickness. Rout large or deepprofiles in multiple passes, raisi'ng the bi t or moving the fence in smallincrements before each pass.


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3/ 8" RABBET

Crea

american woodworker 140 (febmar 2009)

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