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On top of Maremma

LA NATURA IN PERSONALAL NAN TAA URA IN PERSONAN

MONTE AMIATA:rocks and spirituality between the Tuscan hilltops

www.turismoinmaremma.it

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Montagna incantata,

montagna di bronzo sacra agli etruschi,

isola in terraferma.

Enchanting mountain range,

bronze mountain Etruscans considered sacred,

mainland island. 3

Extremely ancient extinct volcano, the

Amiata area is entrancing with its eye-

catching views and millenary secrets.

Some call it a mountain, others a mount;

while the former stresses the feminine and

maternal aspects, the delicate and light lines,

the latter, on the other hand, underlines its

ruggedness, the narrow gorges, the ravines,

the rock faces.

A double, androgynous face which also

transpires from its mythical patrimony:

tender love legends (il Prato della Contessa,

la bella Antiglia), miraculous and salvifi c

appearances (la Madonna di Lamula,

la Vergine della Carità, the stories of San

Bernardino), Th en strong and fi ery legends

where the characters are demons (la schiaccia

del Diavolo), dragons and monsters (il Drago

della Selva or il mostro di Semproniano),

blasphemers and criminals (Camicione and

Giovagnolo).

A land Amiata where each historical

period has left its imprint: pile dwellings,

prehistoric areas, traces of Roman villas,

venues where magicians and paladins stayed

(the cave of Merlin the Wizard); fortresses

and towers and medieval castles (the Fortress

of Montelaterone, the Aldobrandesco Castle

in Arcidosso and Potentino in Seggiano,

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the Fortress of Silvana, the Castle of Triana);

noble and austere Renaissance buildings

(Palazzo Nerucci in Castel del Piano and

Palazzo Sforza Cesarini in Santa Fiora, Villa

Sforzesca in Castell’Azzara); then eighteenth

and nineteenth century squares and road

widenings to fi nally reach the modernization

of the twentieth century hand in hand with

the mining culture.

An agglomeration of homes nestled

on hilltops and fairy-tale summits:

like Roccalbegna, perfect blend of

natural phenomena (the “sasso” rock

tower), workmanship (the magic castle

hanging over the Stronghold) and art

(Ambrogio Lorenzetti, Luca di Tommè,

Francesco Nasini). Or Rocchette di Fazio

(Semproniano), miraculously hanging over

the gorges of the Albegna river.

Or Montelaterone: from one end it looks

like it’s about to fall over the top of the spur

supporting it and from above it looks like

an extremely solid framework for all homes

which cram up one against the other till

they reach the fortress at the very top.

And everywhere you’ll fi nd

Romanesque parish churches,

Renaissance churches,

convents, artworks, ancient,

historically valuable

itineraries still visible; these

paths can still be seen and recall

the pilgrimages which led to

Rome thousand of years ago.

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Towns and villages set like jewels, tiny

art coff ers: like the magnifi cent ceramics

by Della Robbia kept in the Parish Churches

of Sante Flora and Lucilla of Santa Fiora, the

many paintings by Nasini which every

town boastS and which can be especially

seen by visiting Castel del Piano.

In the villages (Grosseto’s Amiata

area has eight town councils)

which surround the Amiata

volcanic cone opposite the

springs, the works of art chiseled

by famous artists rise side by side

those of the anonymous creators

of the urban plan. Th e use of local

stone, peperino carved and friezed

by expert hands, is the material used for the special

buildings and monuments of this land: castles and

seigniorial and plebeian homes, but also fountains,

wells, obelisks, monuments, votive tablets, so

visitors can follow this distinctive line on the

discovery of the material and imagination world

of this mountain as well.

As an example, the evocative capitals of the Pieve

di Lamula (crossroad between Arcidosso,

Montelaterone, Castel del Piano), where

warriors and symbols, bonds and plots,

cavaliers and animals, are interwoven

just like in a enigmatic bestiary. Often

springs and wells still spout next to the

parish churches and convents or their

ruins, testifying pure devoutness for water

which fl ows to quench the thirst of the Amiata,

Maremma and Sienese regions and to celebrate

this wealth, customs and feasts were created with

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legends and fables handed down through

generations.

Poets and mystics came here for inspiration

(Giovan Domenico Peri, seventeenth

century country poet of the enchanting

mountain, would read his poems at the

Fonte del Poeta in Arcidosso,) and oratories

and sacred shrines were built over the

stretch of spring waters.

Together with the cult of water, of fi re, rose

a pagan strength to destroy evil, evoking

ancient spells and initiation rituals.

A strong sense of religion based on

anything natural, part of an emotionally

charged mysticism which has always

enveloped this corner of Tuscany with its

“antique heart,” to adopt an expression by

Padre Ernesto Balducci, fi ne intellectual

from Santa Fiora, one of the greatest men

of this land. Mysticism represents another

itinerary truly identifying the Amiata region

which today has become a romantic core,

bringing together religions and philosophies

which coexist without confl ict. So you will

not be surprised to fi nd ancient ruins facing

the David Lazzaretti tower in Monte Labbro

(Lazzaretti had tried to build an egalitarian

society inspired by Christian values by

the end of the nineteenth century and for

this reason, was killed in 1878). Nearby,

the Tibetan community of Dzog Chen di

Merigar, which chose Monte Labbro as its

headquarters. All lying under the iron Cross

set on top of Monte Amiata and built at the

beginning of the twentieth century, a witness

to the secular Catholic tradition which

brought saints and mystics to the mountain:

from Santa Caterina da Siena (the homes

where she lived still stand in Montegiovi

and Monticello), to San Bernardino to

San Francesco. And amongst the crosses,

those which preacher Baldassarre Audibert

planted as banners representing penance and

salvation. He dotted crossroads and summits,

towns and countrysides with many wooden

signs of Christ all dated 1846 and stuck to

the ground with a peperino base.

Currently, other itineraries have been added

to those from the past and aim to valorize

the environmental and enogastronomic

resources with many discoveries to be made:

from the museum course to the National

Park of the Mines, to the Road for sampling

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Local Products (oil from the “Dop Olivastra

Seggianese, Doc wine of Montecucco,

Igp chestnuts, mushrooms, cheeses, cold

cuts, typical dishes, sweets, bread) on the

discovery of natural reserves, animals, fl ora.

Meander through the paths which run across

the heart of the mountain either by car, foot,

bicycle or horse. A wide range of choices

for those who wish to discover a territory,

to learn about its history and traditions,

especially with the intent of taking a part of

it with them back home.

Th e center of town which builds up to a

pyramid made of homes and narrow alleys,

culminates with the Aldobrandesco Castle (the

primitive center dates back to the eleventh

century) and the three churches San Niccolo,

San Leonardo and Sant’Andrea are interesting

examples of the Romanesque style.

Inside the castle you will fi nd the David

Lazzaretti Center for Studies and the Fauna

Park’s Visitor Center. Th e Sanctuary of the Ma-

donna Incoronata (fi fteenth-sixteenth centuries)

is outside the town walls on the road leading to

Montelaterone. Further on down, surrounded

by chestnut groves, you will run into the Parish

Church Santa Maria ad Lamulas, extremely

fi ne example of Romanesque art. Mid way

between Arcidosso and Castel del Piano you

will fi nd the Convent of the Cappuccini friars

with paintings by Vanni and Nasini and the

early twentieth century small chapel dedicated

to Merope Becchini. Near Arcidosso, there’s

the Castle of Montelaterone, fi rst to be built

in the western Amiata region, (1004 a.C.) and

evocative and intact villages like Stribugliano,

Zancona, Macchie, Salaiola.

Arcidosso

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Th e town has a medieval historical center

with fourteenth century walls which still

stand and are viable and the churches of

San Leonardo and S.S. Sacramento and next

to Porta dell’Orologio you’ll fi nd

Palazzo Nerucci, aristocratic

palace in the renaissance

style (mid sixteenth

century). Palazzo Nerucci

hosts the Museum of

Ancient Art (many

artworks of the

Nasini family of

painters and a self

portrait by Rosalba

Carriera and more)

and modern art (a

collection of posters and

paintings by Edo Cei).

Piazza Madonna has two

fi fteenth century churches (Churches of San

Niccolò e Lucia and Madonna delle Grazie).

Th ey host highly valuable paintings and

furnishings including the fi fteenth century

plate Madonna delle Grazie by an artist

who was part of the Sano di Pietro

school. In Corso Nasini there

is the San Giuseppe Oratory

hosting valuable artworks

by Francesco Nasini.

Just outside the town,

the small Romanesque

church of Santa Lucia.

In addition, there are

other typical medieval

centers like Montegiovi

and Montenero d’Orcia,

today renown village for its

production of Montecucco oil

and wine.

Castel del Piano

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It’s highest town of the Monte

Amiata Grosseto region at 809

meters a.s.l. Facing the Valle del

Paglia, Castell’Azzara has been

the mining town par excellence

(the area is full of cinnabar

and even attracted the Etruscans from the

Sovana area), a part of history which has

been currently documented by

the Cornacchino Galleries open

to visitors. Worthy of note, the

sixteenth century Villa Sforzesca

which was recently fi nely

restored and Rocca Silvana next

to Selvena, fortress of great

strategic importance owned by

the Aldobrandeschi family.

Still visible, the octagonal plan, the tower,

the ruins of the seigniorial palace and the

town wall sections.

Castell’Azzara

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Main hinge between the Amiata and

Maremma regions, the Cinigiano town

council comprises the small villages of Sasso

d’Ombrone, the medieval castle of Colle

Massari and the famous Montecucco Factory

which has given its name to the valuable

Doc wine; Poggi del Sasso and Monticello

Amiata follow. Poggi del Sasso hosts the

new monastery of the Siloe Community.

Small gem for the architecture and works of

art it off ers, Monticello Amiata stands out

both for its well rooted mystical traditions

(legend and sanctuary of the Madonna di Val

di Prata) and for its anthropological ones.

the Home Museum off ers visitors a true

example of how the material patrimony of

the nineteenth century country civilization

has been valorized and is open to visitors to

tell the humble and working-class history

as opposed to the noble and aristocratic one

epitomized by the castles of Porrona (with

town parishes and two seigniorial villas) and

by Castiglioncello Bandini, Aldobrandesco

fortress, open terrace overlooking the

Maremma expanses which reach the sea.

Cinigianonigian

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Th e town is an enchanting natural

environment, unspoilt and primitive, off ering

many interesting buildings and works of

art: the Sasso and the Rocca, the labyrinth

of roads and alleys and small buildings of

the historical center, the Church of Santi

Pietro e Paolo, perhaps the most important

Romanesque monument of the entire

western Amiata region. With works of art by

Ambrogio Lorenzetti, Luca di Tommè and

Francesco Nasini. Th en the palaces: Bichi

Ruspoli and della Lana. A short distance away

the Castello della Triana, which fi rst belonged

to the Aldobrandeschi family and later to the

Piccolomini. Going down towards Maremma

you will run into the small village of Santa

Caterina where an Ethnographic Museum

was set up, hosting original items which were

used during feasts and popular entertainment.

Th en Vallerona and Cana.

Roccalbegnaccalbeg

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Th e town rapidly falls from the terziere

di Castello a Borgo to Montecatino with

sudden rises and steep slopes which are the

main attraction of the town. Everything is

worth a visit here: from the Convent delle

Clarisse to the Sant’Agostino Convent, to

the small Misericordia church, to the parish

church of Saints Flora and Lucilla, which

hosts valuable della Robbia terracotta

decorations (fi fteenth century).

Do visit the Peschiera, a big garden park

where the waters of the springs of the

Fiora river run, and where rare vegetation

is cultivated. And the cemetery which

houses the mortal remains of David

Lazzaretti, Amiata’s Messiah, of Father

Ernesto Balducci, the memorial stone of

the Niccioleta martyrs (Eighty miners

who were shot down by the nazis on June

14 1944) and the tomb of Statesman

Fernando Di Giulio. In Piazza Garibaldi,

besides the Sforza Cesarini Renaissance

Palace, you will also fi nd the Museum of

Mines where you can relive the mining

life. Th e village and Selva Convent are

interesting to visit.

Santa Fiora

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Nestling on a hill following the Vivo, Vetra,

Ormena and Matrolla streams, it off ers the

possibility of discovering many art treasures,

some exposed in the Palazzo Pubblico

Museum and others in the churches and

oratories: San Rocco, with frescoes by

Girolamo di Domenico, San Bartolomeo, the

Corpus Domini, the Madonna della Carità,

temple of excellent Renaissance make whose

construction is tied to a famous legend.

Also extremely interesting, the Museo

dell’Olio, oil museum with machinery

and tools of the era. Th e Potentino Castle,

dating back to 1042, is only a kilometer

away and is a fi nely restored example of a

medieval manor. Worth a visit, the Garden

of Daniel Spoerri, perfectly evocative with

a spacious environment hosting modern art

installations. Th e Pescina village is delightful.

Seggiano

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It hangs over a hillock overlooking the

Albegna river, with the small towns of

Cellena and Catabbio. Worth a visit, the

Santa Croce Church, the parish church of

Santi Vincenzo and Anastasio, the Oratory of

San Rocco. Semproniano stands out for its

majestic olive groves and a millenary one

still boasts sons and descendents, pride of

the local community. Here poet Mario Luzi,

born from a local family, drew much of his

inspiration. Of great emotional impact, the

small village of Rocchette di Fazio, perched

over the Albegna river. A medieval village

rising above the Aldobrandeschi Fortress,

which looks like it’s suspended between

earth and sky just like a nativity scene. In

Rocchette you will also fi nd the ruins of

a sixteenth century Hospital, of the Court

House and Palazzo Pubblico. Th e villages of

Petricci and Cellena are enchanting.

Sempronianompronia

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Site of Regional Importance (SRI) 117 Upper Monte AmiataIt was set up to preserve the migratory bird life, a wide reserve surrounding the beech-wood and chestnut forests.

Site of Regional Importance (SRI) 118 Monte Labbro natural reserveArcidosso town councilSurrounding the mountain by the same name it reaches 1,190 meters a.s.l. It offers beautiful native vegetation and many rare animal species, amongst which the lanner. The fl ora is also abundant. On the peak, ruins of buildings dating back to the Davide Lazzaretti movement.

Site of Regional Importance (SRI)118 The Monte Amiata Fauna reserveInside the reserve you will fi nd a sort of wild park with fallow deer, moufl ons and Apennine wolves.

Site of Regional Importance (SRI) 118 Rocconi natural reserveRoccalbegna and Semproniano town councils. It spreads over the upper valley of Albegna with its spectacular gorges. It has an extraordinary amount of spontaneous orchid species and even rare birds of prey.

Site of Regional Importance (SRI) 118 Pescinello natural reserveRoccalbegna town council Right next to the mountain village, it reaches 800 meters a.s.l., has an extraordinary amount of animal and botanical species, brooks and gigantic trees.

Site of Regional Importance (SRI) 119 Natural Reserve della Santissima Trinità della SelvaSanta Fiora town councilIt’s next to the ancient convent S.S.

Trinità of Selva, renown for the rare presence of white fi r and for the richness of the underwood.

Site of Regional Importance (SRI) 120 Monte Penna natural reserveCastell’Azzara town councilA group of heights where mount Civitella stands out at 1107 meters a.s.l. Area geologically interesting for the caves and bats which inhabit them and the karstifi cation phenomena. It offers many botanical and fauna species and millenary chestnut groves.

Poggio all’Olmo natural reserveCinigiano town councilNext to the Monticello Amiata town, it reaches 1,011 meters a.s.l. The botanic patrimony is extremely interesting, an ancient pear tree towers amongst chestnuts and beech woods and a fascinating legend is tied to it.

Natura

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The Amiata Museum system was set up by the Comunità Montana Amiata of Grosseto to valorize the network of thematic and environmental facilities spread throughout its territory. The System is a territorial container whose special museum identity is represented by the tight relationship between the environment and landscape values and the anthropological and historical-artistic elements of Monte Amiata. The Amiata Museum system is part of the Maremma Museums, the museum network of the Grosseto province and is a useful tool to valorize smaller isolated cultural areas which characterize the Amiata territory.

For information:Comunita Montana Amiata GrossetanoTel. 056496961 Fax: 0564967093sistemamusealeamiata@cm-amiata.gr.it

APT Grossetotel. 0564 462611 Fax: 0564 454606info@lamaremma.infoCastel del Pianotel. 0564 973510 fax: 05640973267infocasteldelpiano@lamaremma.info

Casa Museo of Monticello Amiata (Cinigiano)The museum spreads inside an ancient palace and the rooms accurately represent a late nineteenth century dwelling. The kitchen and the bedroom are the heart of the home, while on the fl oor below visitors can view the cattle shed, the warehouse and the old animal-hauled oil mill where work tools and agricultural equipment bare witness to ancient trades.

Santa Caterina Ethnographic Museum (Roccalbegna)The museum documents the work, traditions and ritualities tied to fi re and trees in Monte Amiata and especially summarizes the Focarazza feast: ancient ritual to honor Santa Caterina d’Alessandria which is held each year on November 24th, the most important local feast for the entire community.

Wine and Vine Museum in Montenero d’Orcia - (Casteldelpiano) The museum covers the main themes tied to the typical production of the territory, with special reference to wine, oil and chestnuts. Amongst the items worthy of note, a “pigiava”: an oak wood press dating back to 1700, complete with a hull, levers and original grills, used to press grapes up until 1910.

Monte Amiata Mercury Mines Museum (Santa Fiora) The museum is housed in the ancient Sforza-Cesarini palace and documents the mining experience which strongly infl uenced the

Amiata region between the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. The exhibition itinerary, with special reference to the areas of Santa Fiora and Castell’Azzara, highlights and illustrates the production of mercury.

David Lazzaretti Research Center (Arcidosso)The Exhibition Center has been dedicated to David Lazzaretti (1834-1878), “Amiata’s Prophet” who acted on behalf of God to accomplish an important reformative mission. The social and religious life of Lazzaretti represents a utopian time of great evocative power and participation in the historical background of the Amiata mountain region and more generally speaking in the history of the lower classes of post-unitary Italy.

Palazzo Nerucci art collection (Casteldelpiano)On the aristocratic fl oor of the sixteenth century Palazzo Nerucci there is a signifi cant group of works of art amongst which worthy of note are: the self portrait by Rosalba Carriera (1675-1757) and several canvases attributed to painters of the Nasini school. The same collection features a broad selection of the early works of maestro Edo Cei.

Giardino d’arte Besides Art Montegiovi (Casteldelpiano)Secluded in the small village of Montegiovi, the garden reveals hidden sculptures surrounded by vegetation and propelled towards the sky like propitiatiory totems in metal, cement and stone. It blends in well with nature. Softly shaped fi gures furnish the atelier of sculptor Piero Bonacina.

Fauna Park Visitors Center (Arcidosso) It was born as an educational pole of the Fauna Park and of the six natural reserves of Monte Amiata. The Center unwinds through fi ve halls set up with blow-ups, cartographies and mineral fi nds and its objective is to supply an overview of the Amiata Ecosystem stimulating the visitor to investigate the most interesting themes in-depth.

The path and galleries of Cornacchino (Castell’Azzara)The mine, which was part of a cinnabar fi eld already known to Etruscans, was opened around 1877 and closed in 1919. The path departs from Quercia Gobba and crosses a forest, approx. 500 mt. along the Fosso del Cornacchino gorge to reach the two mining galleries today restored and known as the Galleria Ritorta.

The Garden of Daniel Spoerri (Seggiano)An outdoor contemporary art museum featuring the most important twentieth century artists. Information 0564 950457

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