great british puddings : over 140 sweet, sticky, yummy, classic recipes from the world-famous...

CONTENTSCOVER

LISTOFRECIPESABOUTTHEBOOKABOUTTHEAUTHOR

TITLEPAGEWHATISTHEPUDDINGCLUB?THEGREATBRITISHPUDDING

OURRECIPESCOOKINGTIPS

CHAPTER1CHAMPIONPUDDINGS

CHAPTER2SCHOOL-DINNERPUDDINGS

CHAPTER3FAMILYFAVOURITES

CHAPTER4FORGOTTENPUDDINGS

CHAPTER5PUDDINGSWITHATWIST

CHAPTER6CHOCOHOLICS&NUTCASES

CHAPTER7SUMMERPUDDINGS

CHAPTER8WINTERPUDDINGS

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSCOPYRIGHT

LISTOFRECIPESAmodernChristmaspuddingAppleandapricotlayerpuddingAppleandcinnamonamberAppleandcustardAppleandmincemeatpuddingApplebolsterApplebrownBettyApplecharlotteAppledappyAppleflapjackApplesnowAppletartApricotandalmondpuddingsApricottansyApricotturnoversAutumnpearpudding

BakedapplespongeBakedapplesBakedapplesinblanketsBakedcustardBakedpeachesBakewellpuddingBakewelltartBananafrittersBanoffeepuddingBlackberrycharlotte

BlackberryEtonmessBlackberryExeterpuddingBlackberry,appleandcinnamoncrumbleBlackcurrantandlemonspongepuddingBlackcurrantandmintpieBloodorangepuddingsBramleyappleandlemoncurdpuddingsBreadandbutterpuddingBreadpuddingButterscotchtart

CabinetpuddingCarrotpuddingCharlotteroyaleChestnutandchocolatepuddingChocolatebreadandbutterpuddingChocolatemousseChristmaspuddingCinnamonandapplebreadpuddingCoconutricepuddingCollegepuddingCustardtart

DamsoncobblerDarkchocolatepavéDateandwalnutpuddingDuchess’spuddingDukeofCambridgetart

Elderberry,blackberryandapplepuddingEve’spudding

Figgypudding

Floatingisland

GingersyruppuddingGooseberryandalmondpuddingGooseberryandelderflowercrumbleGooseberryandelderflowerfoolGooseberryandelderflowerlayerpuddingGooseberryandorangepuddingGreengageflapjack

HazelnutrouladeHolidaypuddingHotmochapudding

JamandcoconutspongeJamrolypoly

Kentishwellpudding

LatticecherrypieLemoncurdrolypolyLemonlayerpuddingLemonmeringuepieLemonpossetLemonspongeLemonsurprisepuddingLightcloutiedumplingLimemeringuepieLordRandall’spudding

ManchesterpuddingsManchestertartMaple,walnutandbananapuddingMarbledpudding

MillenniumpuddingMincemeatrolypolyMincemeattartMulledwinejelly

Nottinghambatterpudding

OldHookyChristmaspuddingOrangeupside-downpuddingOrientalgingerpuddingOxfordpudding

PassionfruitcharlottePeachMelbaPearandgingercharlottePearandgingerupside-downpuddingPearspoachedinmulledwinePecan,cinnamonandmaplesyruppuddingPineappleupside-downpuddingPlumandalmondpuddingsPlumandcinnamoncobblerPlumduffPoorknightsofWindsorPrinceAlbertpuddingPruneandchocolatepuddingPruneandmuscatpuddings

QueenofpuddingsQuinceamber

RaisingingerpuddingRaspberry,appleandalmondcrumbleRhubarbandorangebrownBetty

RhubarbcrumbleRhubarbhatRhubarbrouladeRhubarbandgingerpuddingsRicepuddingRosemarysyllabub

ScottishflummerySemolinapuddingSevilleorangemarmaladepuddingsSevilleorangemarmaladebreadandbutterpuddingSpicedwinterfruitsaladSpicyapplelayerpuddingSpotteddickSquidgychocolatepuddingsStNick’spuddingsSteamedplumspongeStickypearpuddingStickytoffeepuddingStrawberryjamomeletteSummerpuddingSussexpondpuddingSyrupandapplespongeSyrupsponge

ThreeandthreepuddingToffeeapplepuddingTreacletartTutti-fruttipudding

VerychocolatepuddingVictoria’spudding

WalnutandapplespongepuddingWalnutandtoffeetartWhitechocolateandraspberrytrifle

AbouttheBook

Pleasebeupstanding,ladiesandgentlemen,forthegreatestpuddingsthatthisfairlandhastooffer!

Celebratingthegooiest,yummiest,sweetesttreatsthatmadeBritaingreat,thisnewcookbookletsyouinonthesecretsofthebestdessertsinthecountry.Fromsteamedsponges(chestnutandchocolatepudding)toclassiccrumbles(apple,blackberryandcinnamon),forgottencreationssuchasLordRandall’spuddingandschooldinnerfavouriteslikejamrolypoly,throughchocoholicdelightstoperfectricepuddingandvintageChristmaspudding,thisbookisagenuinepud-lover’sdelight.

With150foolproof,tried-and-testedrecipes,easyinstructionsandcolourphotographs,thisistheessentialpuddingcookbookfromtherealexperts.

AbouttheAuthor

ThePuddingClubwasfoundedattheThreeWaysHouseHotelin1985topreventthedemiseofthegreatBritishPudding,atatimewhenrestaurantsseemedtoofferonlytinyportionsoffrozencheesecakeandtastelessgateaux.TodaythePuddingClubanditssupporterscanclaimthattheireffortshavere-establishedsuchdelightsasjamrolypoly,syrupsponge,spotteddickandbreadandbutterpuddingasfavouritesthroughoutthecountry–andbeyond.

WHATISTHEPUDDINGCLUB?THEPUDDINGCLUBwasstartedintheCotswoldvillageofMickletonin1985byasmallbutdedicatedgroupofpuddinglovers.TheyweredeterminednottoletthetraditionalBritishpuddingstheylovedandcravedbecomeextinctasaresultofquick-cookconveniencefoodsandoverseasinfluences!

Intheautumnof1985thissmallbandofaficionadosjoinedtogetherforaneveningofindulgencewherethestarsincludedsevendeliciouspuddings–childhoodfavouritesliketreaclespongepuddingandjamrolypoly,whichatthattimewerenotwidelyavailable.It’shardtobelievenowbutin1985theywererarities!

ThePuddingClub’sheartfeltmissionforoveraquarterofacenturyhasbeentopreservetheGreatBritishPudding.Indeed,thishasbeenachievedonmanyrestaurantandpubmenus,andinfarmshopsandsupermarketsupanddowntheland.ThefameoftheGreatBritishPuddingisnolongerconfinedtotheseshores:ThePuddingClubhasbeenontouroverseasandhasafollowinginJapan,NorthAmerica,Belgium,theNetherlandsandIreland,amongotherplaces.InternationalvisitorscometoourlittleCotswoldvillagetoexperiencethisslightlyeccentricinstitution,andtobeabletosaythattheyhavetakenpartinaPuddingClubmeetingandevenstayedinapudding-themedbedroomtoo.Whereelsecanyousleepsurroundedbyimagesofsyrupspongeorspotteddickandcustard?

GuestsatPuddingClubmeetingsenjoyawholeevening’sentertainment,fromajovialintroductionbythePuddingMasterthroughtheParadeofSevenPuddings,withallitsnoiseandceremony,tothevoteforbestpuddingofthenight!PuddingClubmeetingshavebeenlikenedtomanythingsbutacoupleofcommentsstayinthememory:‘Likemakingloveinathunderstorm’,a‘medievalbanquetwithcustard’,andithasevenbeendescribedas‘theeighthwonderoftheworld’.VisitorstoaPuddingClubmeetingwillunderstandthattheeveningisaboutindulgence,funandbeingabitnaughtytoboot!Youtoocanjoininthefunandattendameeting(seehere).

SheilaVincentisthequeenofpudsinMickleton,andshe’snowworld-famoustooafterproducingamazingpuddingsandsevengallonsofcustardeveryFridaynightforsomanyyears!Asforthethreeofus,we’repassionateaboutpuddingsandproudtobepassingonourtreasuredrecipestoyou–wehopeyouwilleat,drinkandbemerry!

JILL,PETER&SIMON

THEGREATBRITISHPUDDINGSteamedorbaked;layeredorrolled;scatteredwithcrumble;servedhotwithcustardorcoldwithcream–theBritishpuddingcomesincountlessshapes,sizesandstyles.Ourtraditionalpuddingshavebecomefamedtheworldover.

ThehistoryoftheBritishpuddingislongandvaried.Manyrecipescanbetracedbackthroughthecenturies,immortalisedinoldcookbooksorpasseddownfromonegenerationtothenext.Formanyofus,aparticularpuddingcanevokechildhoodmemoriesornostalgiaforthegood-olddays.Forothers,theypromisethewarmthandcomfortofhome,ofmealssharedwithlovedones,orlazySundayafternoons.

TheBritishpudiscurrentlyenjoyingamuch-deservedrevivalinpopularity,withcelebritychefsandrestaurantsfeaturingtraditionalpuddingsontheirmenus.Butwhilstsomerecipeshavebeenconstantlyrevivedandreinvented,suchasourcelebratorytriflesandfamouslemonmeringuepie,othershavebeenalmostforgotten,suchastheKentishwellpuddingorappledappy.Thisbookcelebratesthemall,combiningclassics,newtwistsandlesser-knownrecipesrescuedfromthepast.Sowhetheryou’refeedingyourfamilyorentertainingguests,splashingoutorcookingonabudget,youwillfindperfectpuddingsforeveryoccasion.

OURRECIPESThisbookisacollectionofrecipesthathavebeenservedatPuddingClubmeetingsovertheyears.From15th-centuryrecipes,toourcontemporaryMillenniumpudding,theyrepresentatimelineofpuddinghistory.Sinceourpudsarenormallymuchlarger(asweserveupto70people),eachrecipehasbeenadaptedforcookingathomeandthoroughlyupdatedtouseingredientsavailabletoday,butstillretainingwonderfultraditionalelements.Mostnotableissuet,whichthesedayshaslargelydisappearedfromBritishkitchens(asidefromitsuseindumplings),butmanyofourpuddingswouldbeunrecognisablewithoutit.Vegetablesuetisavailableinanysupermarket,whilstfreshbeefsuetcanbeboughtfrommostbutchersandisveryeconomical.Wealsoencourageyoutoseekoutsomeofthelesser-usedseasonalBritishfruits,suchasdamsons,gooseberries,rhubarbandquince–itwasforthesetraditionalfruitsthatmanypuddingsweredevised,andwethinktheydeservetobeenjoyedasoriginallyintended.

COOKINGTIPSBecausemanypuddingrecipesareprepared,assembledandcookedinsimilarways,anumberofinstructionscropupagainandagainintherecipesthroughoutthisbook.Thissectionoutlinessomeofthemostcommonlyusedequipmentandtechniques.

PUDDINGBASINSAbookonBritishpuddingswouldn’tbecompletewithoutthearchetypalsteamedvariety,withitsiconicbasinshape.TheseareamongtheoldestdomesticBritishpuddings–untilthe19thcentury,veryfewkitchenshadovens,sofoodhadtobeboiledorsteamed.Therearetwotypesofsteamedpud:thesponge-basedpudding,madelikeabatterandpouredintoagreasedbasin,andthosethatrequiresuetpastry,whichisusedtolinethebasin,producingacrumblyoutercrustanddenseinterior.

Inthisbookwegenerallyusea1.1litre(2-pint)basin.Veryoccasionallywespecifya1.5-litre(2½-pint),1.7-litre(3-pint)or2.3-litre(4-pint)basin.Someofourrecipesrequireindividual200ml(7floz)basins.Ifyoudon’thavethenecessarysize,feelfreetoimprovisebydividingyouringredientsbetweensmallerbasinsorbymultiplyingtheingredientstofitalargerone,butneverfillthebasinmorethantwo-thirdsfull.(Ifyoudon’thaveapuddingbasin,youcanusearegularbowl,butdomakesureit’sheatproofandheavy-dutyasitwillneedtowithstandseveralhourssubmergedinahotpanofwater.)Rememberthatadjustingthebasinsizewillalsoaffectthecookingtime,socheckthepuddingtodeterminewhetherit’sproperlycooked.

LININGABASINWITHPASTRYDividethesuetpastryintotwothirdsandonethirdandsetthesmallerpieceaside.Greasethepuddingbasinwithbutteranddustyourworksurfacewithflour.Rolloutthelargerpieceofdoughintoaroughcircleandpositionitinside

flour.Rolloutthelargerpieceofdoughintoaroughcircleandpositionitinsidethegreasedbasin,pressingitsnuglyagainsttheedges.Addtheotheringredientstothepuddingasdirectedintherecipe,thenrolloutthesmallerpieceofdough,wettheedges,andplaceontop,pushingdowngentlyattheedgessothatthetwopiecesofpastrysticktoeachother.

Analternativeliningmethodistorolloutthewholepieceofdoughintoacircle,thencutawayaquartertosaveforthelid.Placethelargerpieceinsidethebasin,bringthetwocutedgestogetherandpressthemtojoin.Onceyou’vefilledthepudding,re-rollthereservedpastryintoacirclethatwillfitontopandadherebywettingtheedgeswithwaterandpushingdown,asdescribedabove.

COVERINGABASINBeforesteaming,yourbasinneedstobeproperlysealed,sothatnowatercangetinsideandmakethepuddingsoggy.Nowadays,manypuddingbasinscanbeboughtwithlids.Thesebasinsareoftenplastic.However,ifyou’reusingatraditionalceramicbasinoranyotherbowl,it’sunlikelytohaveitsownlid,soyou’llneedtocoverthebasinwithfoiland/orgreaseproofpaper.Ideally,usetwolayers:oneofgreaseproofandoneoffoil.(However,don’tworryifyouonlyhaveoneortheother;simplyuseadoublelayerofwhateverisavailable.)Cutalargesquareofeachandlayoneontopoftheother.Withthetwoheldtogether,foldapleatdownthecentretoallowspaceforthepuddingtorise.

Putthecoveringoverthebasin,positioningthegreaseproofnearesttothepudding,thefoiloutermostandthepleatacrossthecentre,andfoldtheedgesdownaroundthebasin.Securewithstring,tiedjustundertherimofthebasin,tomakethecoverwatertight.Alsotiealoopofstringthatyoucanuseasahandletolowerthebasininandoutofthepan.Trimoffanyexcessfoil/greaseproof.

STEAMINGAPUDDINGThemostbasicwaytosteamapuddingisoverapanofsimmeringwater.Ifyouhaveasteamerpanwithtiersthatstackontopofeachother,thisisideal.Otherwise,usealarge,deepsaucepanwithalid.Thepuddingbasinmustn’tdirectlytouchthebottomofthepanoritwillburn,soyou’llneedtoraiseitonatrivet–youcanuseanupturnedsaucer,ramekinorscrunched-updiscoffoilfor

trivet–youcanuseanupturnedsaucer,ramekinorscrunched-updiscoffoilforthis.

Pourenoughwaterintothepansothatitwillreachjustoverhalfwayupthesidesofthebasin,thenlowerthebasinontothetrivetandcoverthepanwithatight-fittinglid.Bringthewatertoasteadysimmerandsteamthepuddingfortheallottedtime.Trytokeepthewaterataroundthesamelevelthroughout–checkregularlyandtopupwithboilingwaterfromthekettleifitlookslow(neveraddcoldwater).Don’tbetemptedtounwrapthepuddinguntilit’snearingtheendofitscookingtimeoritmaysink.

Whenready,usethestringhandletoraisethebasinoutofthepan.Cutthestringandunwrapthepudding.Whencooked,thepuddingshouldbefirmtothetouchandaskewerinsertedintothecentreshouldcomeoutcleanly.Ifit’snotready,you’llneedtore-coverthepuddingandsteamforalittlelonger.

It’salsopossibletosteampuddingsinanelectricsteamerandeveninapressurecooker.Someovensnowcomewithasteamerfunction.Alwaysrefertothemanufacturer’sinstructionsforadviceandbepreparedthatthecookingtimemayvaryfromwhat’sstatedintherecipe–besuretocheckthepuddingwithaskewerasdescribedabove.

Toremoveapuddingfromitsbasinoncecooked,runasharpknifearoundtheedges,placeaservingplateupsidedownontopofthebasinandinvertthepuddingontotheplate.

BASICSHORTCRUSTPASTRYShortcrustpastryformsthebaseofsomanydelicioustartsandpies.It’sbesthandledaslittleaspossible,somakingitinafoodprocessorispreferable,thoughinstructionsarealsogivenformakingbyhand.Ensurethepastryisrolledoutthinly,andthesequantitieswillfitthetinsspecified,withasmallamountleftoverthatyoucanuseformakingdecorations,orstoreinthefridgeorfreezerforanotheruse.

Ifyoupreferasweeterpastry,thesaltcanbereplacedwithapinchofsugar,butbearinmindthatthismakesthepastrycrumblierandtrickiertoworkwith.Youcanalsoadaptthepastrybyaddinggratedlemonororangezest,apinchofcocoapowderorevenseedsfromavanillapod.Alwaysbesparing,tokeeptheflavourssubtle.

Linesa20–22cm(8–9in)tarttin(makes225g/8oz)

130g(4½oz)plainflourPinchofsalt65g(2½oz)unsaltedbutter,chilledIcedwater

Linesa30cm(12in)tarttin(makes375g/13oz)210g(7½oz)plainflourPinchofsalt110g(4oz)unsaltedbutter,chilledIcedwater

SIFTTHEFLOURANDSALTintoafoodprocessor(orseebelowformakingbyhand).Cutthecoldbutterintosmallpiecesanddropinontop.Processfor20–30seconds,thenaddice-coldwater,atablespoonatatime,withthemachinestillrunning.Youshouldneed2–3spoonfuls.

IFTHEMIXTUREISSTILLcrumblyafteraminuteortwo,addanothertablespoonofwater,butbearinmindthatthemorewateryouadd,themorethepastrywillshrinkwhenblindbaked(addingcreamoreggyolkinsteadofwaterisasolutiontothis).Oncethepastryhascometogetherintoaball,stoptheprocessor,removethedoughandwrapinclingfilm.Leaveinthefridgeforatleast30minutesbeforerollingout.

TOMAKETHEPASTRYbyhand,sifttheflourandsaltintoalargebowlthenaddthechoppedbutterandworkasquicklyasyoucantorubthefatintotheflourwithyourfingertips.Addwaterasabove,thenwrapinclingfilmandchillinthefridgefor30minutes.

DUSTYOURWORKSURFACE,rollingpinandhandswithflour,thenstartrolling–alwaysawayfromyou,turningthepastryasyougo.Keeptherollingpinandworksurfaceflouredtopreventsticking.Oncerolledout,sliptherollingpinunderthetopthirdofthepastryandpickitupandlayoveryourgreasedtinordish.Neverstretchitasitwilljustshrinkback.Trytochilltheunbakedpastrycaseinthefridgeforatleast30minutesbeforeuse.Dependingonthepuddingrecipeyouarefollowing,youmayneedtoblindbakethepastrycase(seehere)

beforefillingit.

LININGATARTTINWhetheryou’vemadethepastryfromscratchorareusingstore-bought,itshouldbechilledbeforeyoubegin.Dustacleanworksurfacewithflourandgentlyrolloutthechilledpastry,rollingawayfromyourselfandturningthepastryatintervalstokeepitroughlycircular.Rolluntilthepastryislargerthanthediameterofthetarttinandaround5mm(¼in)inthickness.Tocheckitislargeenough,placethetarttingentlyontopandensurethereisenoughexcessallthewayaroundtosufficientlylinethesides.

Thoroughlygreasethetin(ifit’sfluted,apastrybrushcanbehelpfulforgreasingintothecreases).Placeyourrollingpinontopoftherolled-outpastryandlooselyrollituparoundthepin.Liftthepinup,positionitabovethetinandunrollthepastryintoplace.Ensureitiscentral,withthesameamountofexcessallthewayround.

Gentlyeasethepastryintothebaseandsidesofthetin,beingcarefulnottotearordentitwithyourfingertips.Trimanyexcessfromtheedgeswithasharpknife,allowingalittlebitofextratoaccountforanyshrinking.Prickthebaseofthepastrywithaforkandchillthepastrycaseinthefridgeforupto30minutes–thishelpstoreduceshrinkage.Oncechilled,eitherblindbake(seehere)orfillimmediately,dependingonthepuddingrecipeyouarefollowing.

BLINDBAKING‘Blindbaking’istheprocessofbakinganemptytartorpiecasebeforeitisfilled.Itensuresthatthebaseofthepastryiscrispandcookedthroughandisn’tmadesoggybytheadditionofthefilling.Asdirectedabove,thecaseshouldbeprickedwithaforkandchilledforupto30minutesbeforeblindbaking.

Preheattheovento190°C(400°F),GasMark5.Cutacircleofgreaseproofpaperorbakingparchmentandplaceitinsidethepastrycase.Fillwithbakingbeans(youcanuseuncookedriceorlentilsasanalternative),spreadingthemouttoevenlycoverthebase.Bakeintheovenforabout15minutesuntiltheedgesarelightlybrowned.Removethebakingbeansandpaperandputbackintheovenfor10minutesuntilthebaseiscooked.Allowtocoolandthenfillthecaseasrequired.

CHAMPIONPUDDINGS

CHAPTER1

AtPuddingClubmeetings,weserveupsevendifferentpuddings.Onceguestshavebeengiventheopportunitytotrythemall(andevencomebackforseconds!),theyareaskedtovotefortheirfavourite.

Thepuddingwiththemostvotesiscrownedthechampion.

Thesevenpuddingsinthischapteraretheonesthathavebeenvotedchampiononthemostoccasions.Anirresistibleline-upofBritish

classics,theydemonstratehowwonderfullyvariedoursweetfarecanbe.Fromindulgentstickytoffeetorefreshingsummerpudding,thereissomethinghereforeveryone,whetheryoupreferyourpudhotorcold;steamedorbaked;spongyorcrisp;creamy,syrupyorfruity…

ChampionPuddings

BreadandbutterpuddingGingersyruppuddingStickytoffeepuddingSyrupspongeRhubarbcrumbleSummerpuddingPassionfruitcharlotte

BreadandbutterpuddingCOOKINGTIME30MINUTES

SERVES4–6

120g(4oz)sultanas1tbspbrandy(optional)120–180g(4–6½oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing12slicesofwhitebread,crustsremovedFinelygratedzestandjuiceof1orange

3eggs600ml(1pint)milk90g(3oz)castersugarGroundcinnamonornutmeg,tosprinkleCustard,toserve(optional)

IFYOUWANTTOSOAKthesultanasinbrandy,putthemtogetherinabowlandleavetosoakforupto30minutes.Greasea1.1-litre(2-pint)ovenproofbakingdish.

BUTTERTHEBREADSLICESononeside.Linethebottomandsidesofthegreaseddishwithsomeofthebread,butter-sideup,andsprinklewithhalftheorangejuiceandgratedzest.Addhalfthesultanas,followedbyanotherlayerofbread,thentheremainingsultanas,juiceandzest.Finishwiththeremainingbread.

BEATTHEEGGSWELL,mixwiththemilkandsugar,andpourthismixtureoverthepudding.Sprinklewithcinnamonornutmegandleavetosoakfor30minutes,thenpreheattheovento200°C(400°F),GasMark6andbakethepuddingfor30minutesoruntilset.Servehot,onitsownorwithcustard.

Theearliestknownrecipeforthismuch-lovedpuddingdatesfrom1723.Squidgyunderneathandcrispontop,theeternalquestioniswhattoservewithit:someswearbycustard,othersprefercream,whilstmanyfirmlybelievethatit’smoist

enoughtoneednosauceatall.

GingersyruppuddingCOOKINGTIME2HOURS

SERVES6

200g(7oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing200g(7oz)softlightbrownsugar

4eggs,beaten200g(7oz)self-raisingflour1½tbspgroundginger40g(1½oz)choppedstemginger,plussyrupfromthejar150g(5oz)goldensyrupCustard,toserveGREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasin.Inamixingbowl,creamtogetherthebutterandsugaruntilpaleandfluffy.Graduallyaddthebeateneggstothecreamedmixture,stirringaftereachaddition–ifthemixtureseparates,juststirinalittleoftheflour.

SIFTTHEREMAININGFLOURintoaseparatebowltogetherwiththegroundginger,thengraduallyfoldthemintothecreamedmixture,alongwithasmallamountofsyrupfromthestemgingerjar.Mixwelltoincorporate.

POURTHEGOLDENSYRUPintothebottomofthegreasedbasinandaddthechoppedstemginger.Spoonthespongemixtureontop.Sealthebasinwithalidorfoilandsteamforapproximately2hours,untilthepuddingisfirmtothetouch.Turnoutontoaservingplateandservewithcustard.

Apuddingofcontrasts,thisfeelsasBritishastheycome,butit’seasytoforgetthatgingerwasoriginallyimportedfromAsia.Thespongehasallthesweetnessofchildhoodfare,butwithagrown-uptangfromthecombinationofstem

ginger,groundgingerandgingersyrup.

StickytoffeepuddingCOOKINGTIME1½HOURS

SERVES4–6

100g(3½oz)choppeddates1tspvanillaessence

1tspbicarbonateofsoda60g(2oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing170g(6oz)softlightbrownsugar

1egg225g(8oz)plainflour1tspbakingpowderCustard,toserveForthetoffeesauce4½tbspdoublecream15g(½oz)unsaltedbutter60g(2oz)softdarkbrownsugar

LIGHTLYGREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasin.Putthetoffeesauceingredientsinasaucepanandmelttogetheroveralowheat,thenpourintothegreasedbasinandsetaside.

MIXTHECHOPPEDDATES,vanillaessenceandbicarbonateofsodawith550ml(19floz)water.Inaseparatelargebowl,creamtogetherthebutterandsugaruntilpaleandfluffy,thengraduallybeatintheegg.

SIFTTHEFLOURANDBAKINGPOWDERtogether,thenaddtothecreamedmixtureinsmallamounts,alternatingwithadditionsofthedatemixture,stirringeachtimetocombine.

POURTHEMIXTUREoverthetoffeesauceinthepuddingbasin,coverwithalidorfoilandsteamfor1½hours.Turnoutandservewithcustard.

Notasoldasyoumightthink,thismodernclassichasonlybeenincirculationsincethe1970s.Evenso,itsoriginsarelostalready,withchefsintheLakeDistrict,Lancashire,AberdeenandthesouthofEnglandallclaimingtohaveinventedit.(Thisinitselfshowstheloveforstickytoffeepudupanddownournation!).ItwasGaryRhodes’sfavouritewhenhevisitedThePuddingClub,and

wasrecentlyrevealedasKateMiddleton’sall-timetoppudding.

SyrupspongeCOOKINGTIME1½HOURS

SERVES4–6

200g(4oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing200g(4oz)castersugar200g(4oz)self-raisingflour,sifted3eggs,beatenwith1tspvanillaessence

3tbspgoldensyrupCustard,toserve

GREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasin.Inamixingbowl,creamtogetherthebutterandsugaruntilpaleandfluffy.Stirinthesiftedflouralittleatatime,alternatingwithadditionsofthebeateneggsandvanilla,andbeatingthemixturewellaftereachaddition.

PUTTHEGOLDENSYRUPinthebaseofthegreasedbasinandpourthespongemixturecarefullyoverthetop.Coversecurelywithalidorfoilandsteamfor1½hours.Turnoutandservewithcustard.

Thispuddingisknowntomanyastreaclesponge,despitethefactthatitcontainsnotreacle!Whatdoyoucallit…?WecallitPrideofThePudding

RhubarbcrumbleCOOKINGTIME35–45MINUTES

SERVES6–8

245g(8½oz)self-raisingflour165g(5½oz)demerarasugar60g(2oz)unsaltedbutter,cutintopieces60g(2oz)margarine

1tspvanillaessence700g(1½lb)freshrhubarb,washedandcutinto3cm(1in)pieces2–3tspcastersugar

Custardorcream,toserveSIFTTHEFLOURINTOALARGEBOWL,addthedemerarasugarandmixwell.Addthebutter,margarineandvanillaessenceandmixtoafinecrumbconsistencywithyourfingertips.Placeinthefridgetochill.

PREHEATTHEOVENTO200°C(400°F),GasMark6.Mixtherhubarbandcastersugartogetherandplaceinthebaseofadeep,oval,ovenproofbakingdish,approx.30×20cm(12×8in).

COVERTHERHUBARBwiththechilledcrumbletoppingandfirmdownthetopalittle.Cookintheovenfor35–45minutesuntilgoldenbrown.Servewithcustardorcream.

Whatcouldbemoreclassicandcomfortingthanawarmfruitcrumble?OurchampionversionmakesuseofbeautifulBritishrhubarb.TheforcedvarietyisfamouslygrownintheYorkshiretriangle,anine-square-mileareainthenorthofEngland,whereitiscultivatedindarkshedsandharvestedbycandlelight

earlyintheyear,whilsttheflavourfuloutdoorrhubarbcomesintoseasoninlatespring.

Summerpudding

SETTINGTIMEONLYSERVES4–6

720g(1lb9oz)mixedsoftsummerfruits,suchasraspberries,strawberries,red-andblackcurrants1tbspcrèmedecassis

Castersugar,totasteButter,forgreasing6–8thickslicesofday-oldwhitebread,crustsremovedPouringorwhippedcream,toservePUTTHEMIXEDFRUITSinasaucepanwiththecrèmedecassis,asprinklingofsugarandaverysmallamountofwater.Simmergentlyfor3–4minutestodissolvethesugaranduntilthefruitissoftbutstillholdingitsshape,thenremovefromtheheat.

LIGHTLYGREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasinandcompletelylinewithmostofthebread,cuttingittofit.Pourinthefruitandcoverwiththeremainingbreadtosealthepudding.

PLACEASMALLPLATEontopofthebreadandstandaheavyweightonitsothatthepuddingispresseddown.Thiswillensurethejuiceisabsorbed,turningthebreadawonderful,richcolour.Allowtosetinthefridgeforaminimumof8hoursorovernight.Turnoutcarefullyandservewithcream.

Aclassicsummerdelight.ThisfruitypuddingissaidtohavestartedlifeinVictorianspasandnursinghomes,whereitwasservedtopatientsasan

alternativetoheavypastryorsuettreats.Ittastesdifferenteverytime,asthecombinationoffruitsdependsontheseasonandtheproportionsused.

WHYNOTTRY…?Crèmedemûre(blackberryliqueur)makesanicealternativetocassis.

PassionfruitcharlotteSETTINGTIMEONLY

SERVES4–6

2Swissrolls(store-boughtorseehere),thinlysliced12ripepassionfruit

3gelatineleaves375g(13oz)doublecreamExtracream,toserve(optional)

LINEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasinorsoufflédishwithclingfilm.UsetheslicesofSwissrolltolinethesidesandbottomofthedish.

HALVE10OFTHEPASSIONFRUIT,scrapeoutthefleshintoablenderandblitztoapurée.Pushthroughasievetoremovetheblackpips.

SOAKTHEGELATINEinasmallbowlofcoldwateruntilsoft.Meanwhile,whipthecreaminalargebowluntilitformssoftpeaks.Removethesoftenedgelatinefromthewaterandcarefullystiritintothewhippedcream,alongwiththepassionfruitpurée.

HALVETHETWOREMAININGPASSIONFRUITandscrapeoutthefleshintothemixture.Stirgentlyuntileverythingisincorporated.Pourthemixtureintothesponge-lineddishandleaveinthefridgetosetfor2hoursorovernight.CarefullyturnouttheCharlotteontoaplateandremovetheclingfilm.Serveonitsownorwithalittlecream.

ThisisourmostpopularcoldpuddingatThePuddingClub.Thezinginessofpassionfruitcutsperfectlythroughtherichcream,makingthispuddingasurprisingdelight.UncookedcharlotteslikethisarerelatedtoElizabethan

trifles,althoughthisversionisanewertwist,aspassionfruitswereintroducedtotheUKinthe19thcentury.

SCHOOL-DINNERPUDDINGS

CHAPTER2

AftertheSecondWorldWar,itwasmadecompulsoryforBritishschoolstoservecookedmealstotheirpupils,andthiswouldnormally

includeapudding.Certainpudswerefavouredbydinnerladiesbecausetheywerelow-costandeasytocookinlargequantitiesforcrowdsofhungryschoolchildren,andsotreatssuchasjamrolypoly,ricepuddingandtreacletartbecamearegularfeatureofschooldinnerhallsupanddownthecountry.Manyoftherecipesinthischapterwillberememberedfondlybythosewhodevouredthemaskids.Theywillfillyouwithwarmthandnostalgiaforchildhoodanddaysgoneby.

School-DinnerPuddings

RicepuddingSemolinapuddingSpotteddickBreadpuddingCustardtartBakedcustardBakedapplespongeEve’spuddingAppleandcustardApplesnowQueenofpuddingsJamrolypolyDamsoncobblerJamandcoconutspongeBananafrittersManchestertartPineappleupside-downpuddingTreacletart

RicepuddingCOOKINGTIME3HOURS

SERVES4

65g(2½oz)roundpuddingrice1.2litres(2pints)creamyfull-fatmilk25g(1oz)unsaltedbutter,cutintosmallpieces50g(2oz)castersugarPinchofgroundnutmegJam,toservePREHEATTHEOVENTO140°C(275°F),GasMark1.Putthericeintoashallowpiedish,pouroverhalfthemilkandstirinthebutterandsugar.Bakefor1hour.

STIRINTHEREMAININGMILKandcontinuetocookforanotherhour.Stiragain,sprinklewithnutmegandcookforafurtherhour.Servewithaspoonfulofjam.

SemolinapuddingCOOKINGTIME45–50MINUTES

SERVES4

750ml(1pint6floz)milk100g(3½oz)semolina½tspgroundcinnamon,plusextraforsprinkling30g(1oz)unsaltedbutter,plusextraforgreasing100g(3½oz)castersugar

2eggyolksJamorhoney,toserve(optional)

PREHEATTHEOVENTO180°C(350°F),GasMark4andthoroughlygreaseashallow,ovenproofbakingdish.Pourthemilkintoasaucepanandheatuntilhotbutnotboiling.

REMOVETHEPANFROMTHEHEATandslowlyaddthesemolina,whiskingallthetimewithaballoonwhisktoavoidlumps.Returnthepantotheheatandbringslowlytotheboil,stirringconstantlysothatthemixtureremainssmooth.

REMOVEFROMTHEHEAT,stirinthecinnamon,butter,sugarandeggyolksandmixwell.Pourintothegreaseddishandsprinklewithalittlemoregroundcinnamon.Bakeintheovenfor35–40minutes.Servethepuddingonitsownorwithagenerousspoonfulofjamorhoney.

SpotteddickCOOKINGTIME2HOURS

SERVES4–6

Butter,forgreasing240g(8½oz)self-raisingflourPinchofsalt120g(4oz)vegetablesuet30g(1oz)castersugar240g(8½oz)currantsorraisins,soakedinbrandy,thendrainedCustard,toserveGREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasin.Sifttogethertheflourandsaltintoamixingbowl,thenaddthesuet,sugaranddraineddriedfruit.Mixwithupto150ml(5floz)coldwater–enoughtobringtheingredientstogetherintoafirmdough.

PUSHTHEDOUGHintothegreasedbasinandcoversecurelywithalidorfoil.Steamthepuddingfor2hours,thenturnoutontoahotplateandservewithcustard.

WHYNOTTRY…?Ifyouwanttomakethispuddinginthetraditionalshapeinsteadofusingabasin,formthemixtureintoacylinderabout20cm(8in)long,androllina

puddingcloth,beforesteamingfor2hours.

We’reaskedaboutthenameofthispuddingmorethananyother.Whilethespotsareself-explanatory,theword‘dick’isthoughttoderivefrom‘dough’or‘duff’(asstillusedinplumduff).It’salsosometimesknownasspotteddog,and

hasevenbeenreferredtoasablemishedRichard!

BreadpuddingCOOKINGTIME2HOURS

SERVES6–8

8medium-thicknessslicesofbread(from1largeloaf)300ml(11floz)milk300g(11oz)mixeddriedfruit50g(2oz)choppedmixedpeel1eatingapple2tbspdarkorangemarmalade

3tbspsoftdarkbrownsugar40g(1½oz)self-raisingflour2eggs,beatenSqueezeoflemonjuice

1tspgroundcinnamon100g(3½oz)unsaltedbutter,meltedEggcustard(seehere)oricingsugar,toservePREHEATTHEOVENTO160°C(325°F),GasMark3andgreasea28×20cm(11×8in)roastingtin.Breakupthebread,includingthecrusts,andsoakinthemilkuntilsoft.

BEATTHESOAKEDBREADWELLwithaforksothatitbecomesasoft,creamymixture.Transfertoalargebowlandaddthedriedfruitandmixedpeel.Grateintheunpeeledappleandstirinthemarmalade,sugar,flour,eggs,lemonjuiceandcinnamon.

POURHALFOFTHEMELTEDBUTTERintothemixture,beatwellandpourintothegreasedtin.Pourtheremainingbutterinathinstreamontothesurface.Bakefor1½hours(checkregularlyandcoverwithfoilorgreaseproofpaperifbrowningtooquickly).Thenturnuptheoventemperatureto180°C(350°F),GasMark4andbakeforanother30minutes.

SERVEHOT,cutintosquares,witheggcustard.Alternatively,allowtocool,then

sprinklethicklywithicingsugarandslicetoeatcoldasacake.

CustardtartCOOKINGTIME50MINUTES

SERVES4–6

Butter,forgreasing225g(8oz)shortcrustpastry(seehere)300ml(11floz)singlecreamorcreamyfull-fatmilk

2eggs,plus1eggyolk25g(1oz)castersugarGroundnutmeg,tosprinkleCreamandfreshraspberriesorseasonalfruit,toserveGREASEALOOSE-BOTTOMED20CM(8in)tarttinandlinewiththepastry(seehere).Chillfor30minutesinthefridge,thenpreheattheovento190°C(400°F),GasMark5andblindbakethepastrycasefor25minutes(seehere).Removefromtheovenandturndownthetemperatureto170°C(325°F),GasMark3.

MEANWHILE,PUTTHECREAMormilkintoasaucepanandbringtotheboil.Beattheeggs,eggyolkandsugartogetherinabowlandthengraduallywhiskintheheatedcreamormilk.

STRAININTOTHECOOKEDPASTRYCASEandsprinklewithnutmeg.Bakeintheovenfor35minutesuntilthecustardisset.Thetartwillbecomefirmerasitbecomescoldbutisbesteatenstillslightlywarm.Servewithcreamandfreshraspberriesoryourchoiceoffreshfruit.

Britainhasalonghistoryofcustardsandcreams,datingbacktomedievaltimes.Theywereoftenservedalone,bakedinindividualcupsandsometimesflavouredwithfruitpurées.Custardalsodevelopedintoafillingforpiesandtarts,ashere,andeventuallyintotheclassicsauceforaccompanyingother

desserts.

BakedcustardCOOKINGTIME1HOUR

SERVES4–6

Butter,forgreasing600ml(1pint)singlecream1vanillapod,splitinhalf

3eggs50g(2oz)castersugarPinchofgroundnutmeg

PREHEATTHEOVENTO170°C(325°F),GasMark3.Lightlygreaseanovenproofbakingdishorstraight-sidedsoufflédish,900ml–1.1litres(1½–2pints)capacity.Putthecreamandsplitvanillapodinasaucepanandheatuntiljustatboilingpoint,thenremovefromtheheat.

INALARGEBOWL,beattheeggslightlywiththesugar.Removethevanillapodfromthesaucepanandpourthecreamontothebeateneggs,whiskingthoroughly.Strainintothegreaseddishandsprinklewiththenutmeg.

SITTHEBAKINGDISHinaroastingtinandpourboilingwaterintothetin,uptothelevelofthemixtureinsidethedish.Bakeintheovenfor1hour.Servehotorcold.

VariationsBakedcoffeecustardOmitthevanillapodandinsteadflavourthecreamwith2tablespoonsofcoffeeessenceorstrongblackcoffee.Alsoomitthenutmeg.

BakedchocolatecustardAdd50g(2oz)choppeddarkchocolatetothecreamandvanillapodbeforeheating.Stirwhileheating,toensureitmeltsandbecomesincorporated.Omitthenutmeg.

BakedapplespongeCOOKINGTIME35MINUTES

SERVES4–6

200g(7oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing200g(7oz)demerarasugar

3eggs,beaten200g(7oz)self-raisingflour,sifted

2mediumcookingapples,peeled,coredandchopped

Custardorcream,toservePREHEATTHEOVENTO190°C(375°F),GasMark5andgreasea1.1-litre(2-pint)ovenproofbakingdish.Inamixingbowl,creamtogetherthebutterandsugaruntilpaleandfluffy.Graduallymixinthebeateneggs,alongwithalittleoftheflour,thenfoldintheremainingflourandthechoppedapple.

SPOONINTOTHEGREASEDDISHandbakefor15minutes,thenreducetheheatto180°C(350°F),GasMark4andcontinuetobakeforanother20minutes.Servehotwithcustardorcream.

Eve’spuddingCOOKINGTIME40MINUTES

SERVES4–6

450g(1lb)cookingapples,peeled,coredandchoppedcoarsely75g(3oz)softlightbrownsugar100g(3½oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing100g(3½oz)castersugar,plusextraforsprinkling

2eggs100g(3½oz)self-raisingflour,siftedGratedzestof1unwaxedlemon¼tspvanillaessence

Creamorcustard,toservePREHEATTHEOVENTO180°C(350°F),GasMark4andgreasea1.5-litre(2½-pint)ovenproofbakingdish.Puttheapplesintothebakingdishandsprinklewiththebrownsugar;mixtogetherlightly.

INAMIXINGBOWL,creamtogetherthebutterandcastersugaruntilpaleandfluffy,thenworkintheeggs,siftedflour,lemonzestandvanillaessenceandmixtoasoftbatter.Spreadthisovertheapplesinthedishandbakefor40minutes.Removefromtheovenandsprinklethesurfacewithcastersugar.Serveimmediatelywithcreamorcustard.

AppleandcustardCOOKINGTIME40–45MINUTES

SERVES6

1kg(2lb2oz)Bramleyapples,peeled,coredandsliced

3tbsphoneyFinelygratedzestof1unwaxedlemonFortheeggcustard600ml(1pint)milk6eggs,separated

75g(3oz)castersugarPLACETHEAPPLES,honeyandlemonzestintoaheavy-basedsaucepanandcookoveralowheatuntiltheapplesarejusttender.Removefromtheheatandpuréetheapplemixturewithahandblender,thenpourintoa2.3-litre(4-pint)ovenproofbakingdish.

TOMAKETHEEGGCUSTARD,warmthemilkinasaucepan.Beattogethertheeggyolksand50g(2oz)ofthesugarinaheatproofbowl,thenpourinthewarmedmilk,stirringwell.Placethebowloverasaucepanofsimmeringwater,beingcarefulnottoletthebowlactuallytouchthewater.Stiruntilthecustardhasthickened;thiswilltakearound10minutes.Pourthecustardovertheapplepuréeinthebakingdish.

PREHEATTHEOVENTO150°C(300°F),GasMark2.Inascrupulouslycleanbowl,whisktheeggwhitesuntilstiff,thenfoldintheremaining25g(1oz)ofsugarwithametalspoon.Pilethemeringueoverthecustard,spreadingitrighttotheedgesofthedish.Bakeintheovenfor30minutes,untilthemeringueisgoldenbrown.

ApplesnowCOOKINGTIME10MINUTES

SERVES4

450g(1lb)cookingapples(preferablyBramley),peeled,coredandsliced75g(3oz)castersugar

Gratedzestandjuiceof1unwaxedlemon

2eggwhitesSmall,sweetbiscuits,toserve

PUTTHESLICEDAPPLES,sugar,lemonzestandjuiceintoasaucepan.Simmeroveralowheat,stirringoften,untiltheappleshavebecomeasoft,thickpuréeandthereisnosurplusliquidleftinthepan.Pushtheapplemixturethoughafinesieveorprocesswithahandblenderuntillightandfluffy.

INASCRUPULOUSLYCLEANBOWL,whisktheeggwhitesuntiltheyformsoftpeaks,thenfoldintheapplepuréewithametalspoon.Spoonintoglassesandchill.Servewithsmall,sweetbiscuits.

AfavouriteinElizabethankitchens,cookswouldoftenstickasprigofrosemaryinthetopofthispuddingtoresembleasnow-coveredtree.Bramleyapplesareideal,oruseasimilarvarietythathasatartflavourandbecomeslightandfluffy

whencooked.

QueenofpuddingsCOOKINGTIME30–40MINUTES

SERVES4–6

180g(6½oz)breadcrumbsFinelygratedzestof1unwaxedlemon150g(5oz)castersugar600ml(1pint)milk

60g(2oz)unsaltedbutter,plusextraforgreasing½tspvanillaessence

4eggs,separated100g(3½oz)strawberryorraspberryjam

PREHEATTHEOVENTO180°C(350°F),GasMark4andgreasea1.1-litre(2-pint)piedish.Putthebreadcrumbs,lemonzestand30g(1oz)ofthesugarintoamixingbowl.

COMBINETHEMILK,butterandvanillaessenceinasaucepanandwarmgentlyuntilthebutterhasmelted,thenpouroverthebreadcrumbmix.Leavethemixturetostandfor10minutesthenbeatintheeggyolks.Pourthemixtureintothegreasedpiedishandbakefor20–30minutesuntilwellset.Leavetheoventurnedon.

WARMTHEJAMinasmallsaucepanoveralowheat,thenspreaditgenerouslyoverthepudding.Inascrupulouslycleanbowl,whisktheeggwhitesuntilstiff.Foldintheremaining120g(4oz)ofsugarwithametalspoon.Spreadthemeringueoverthepuddingandplacebackintheovenforabout10minutesuntilthemeringueiscrispandlightlybrown.

ThroughouttheagesinBritain,breadwasalwaysconsideredavaluablecommoditythatshouldnevergotowaste,sothispuddingstartedlifeasawaytouseuppreciousbreadcrumbs.Andthename?Whilethe‘crown’ofmeringueiscertainlyveryregal,it’salsosaidthatQueenVictoriawasknowntoenjoyahelpingortwo.HereatThePuddingClub,wehaveourveryownqueenofpuddings–SheilaVincent–whohasbeenmakingalloursweetstufffor16

years.

JamrolypolyCOOKINGTIME1–1½HOURS

SERVES4–6

180g(6½oz)self-raisingflour,plusextrafordustingPinchofsalt90g(3oz)vegetablesuetMilk,tomix450g(1lb)raspberryjam

1tbspcastersugarCustard,toserve

PREHEATTHEOVENTO190°C(375°F),GasMark5.Sifttheflourandsalttogetherintoalargebowl,thenaddthesuetandmixwithenoughmilktomakeadough.

ONAFLOUREDSURFACE,rolloutthedoughtoabout25cm(10in)squareandspreadwiththejam.DampentheedgesofthedoughwithwaterandrolluplikeaSwissroll.

PLACEINAROASTINGTINandputintheoven,withonesideofthetinraisedsothatthepuddingrollstooneend.Thiswillpreventtherolypolyfromunravelling.Bakefor1hour.(Alternatively,wrapthepuddinginfoiltoholditsshapeandcoverinclingfilmtomakeitwatertight.Steamfor1½hours,thencarefullyremovetheclingfilmandfoil.)Sprinklethepuddingwithcastersugarandservewithcustard.

HugelypopularinVictorianBritain,thisfamouspuddingevenfeaturesinthewritingofCharlesDickens(inBleakHouse)andBeatrixPotter(inherTaleofSamuelWhiskers).Traditionally,therolypolywouldhavebeenboiledinapuddingcloth;buttheskillofwrappingapuddinglikethisisnowalmostforgotten.AtPuddingClubmeetings,onlyspotteddickgetsabiggercheer.

JamandcoconutspongeCOOKINGTIME1½–2HOURS

SERVES4–6

3tbspblackcurrantjam200g(7oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing200g(7oz)castersugar200g(7oz)self-raisingflozur,sifted60g(2oz)desiccatedcoconut3eggs,beaten

Custard,toserveGREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasin.Putthejaminthebottomofthebasin.Inamixingbowl,creamtogetherthebutterandsugaruntilpaleandfluffy.

ADDTHESIFTEDFLOURtothecreamedmixturealittleatatime,alongwithgradualadditionsofthedesiccatedcoconutandbeatenegg,mixingwelleachtime.Pourthespongemixturecarefullyoverthejaminthebasin.Coversecurelywithalidorfoilandsteamfor1½–2hours.Turnoutandservewithcustard.

Anyred-fruitjamisgood,butusethebest-qualityyoucanfind–home-madeisbest.

BananafrittersCOOKINGTIME5MINUTES

SERVES6

200g(7oz)self-raisingflour

1tbspbakingpowder30g(1oz)goldencastersugar,plusextrafordusting1egg,beaten300ml(11floz)milkGratedzestof1unwaxedlemon½tspgroundnutmeg

6bananasVegetableorsunfloweroil,fordeep-fryingIcecream,toserve

TOPREPARETHEBATTER,combinetheflour,bakingpowderandsugarinamixingbowl.Graduallyaddtheeggandmilkandwhisktoformasmoothbatter.Setasidetorestforupto1hour,thenmixthelemonzestandnutmegintotherestedbatter.

PEELTHEBANANASandcuttheminhalf.Inadeep,heavy-basedsaucepan,heatenoughoiltosubmergethebananahalves.Tochecktheoilisattherighttemperature,dropinasmallpieceofbreadtoseewhetheritsizzlesandbrowns.Whentheoilishotenough,dipthebananapiecesintothebatteranddeep-fryuntilgolden.Removewithaslottedspoonanddrainbrieflyonkitchenpaper.Dustthefritterswithalittlecastersugarandservewithicecream.

ManchestertartCOOKINGTIME30MINUTES

SERVES4–6

225g(8oz)shortcrustpastry(seehere),chilled3tbspgood-qualityraspberryjam3tbspdesiccatedorflakedcoconut2tbspcustardpowder

2tbspcastersugar600ml(1pint)milkCream,toserve

ROLLOUTTHECHILLEDPASTRYonaflouredsurfaceuntil5mm(¼in)thick,thenuseittolinea20cm(8in)tartdish(seehere).Refrigeratethelineddishfor30minutes,thenpreheattheovento190°C(400°F),GasMark5andblindbakefor25minutes(seehere).Removefromtheovenandsettoasidetocool.

WHENCOOL,spreadthepastrycasewiththejamandsprinklewithhalfthecoconut.Inamediumbowl,mixthecustardpowderandsugarwithalittlecoldmilktoformapaste.Heattheremainingmilkgentlyinasaucepan,pourontothecustardpasteandwhisktocombine,thenreturnthemixturetothesaucepanandbringtotheboiltothicken.

POURTHECUSTARDoverthejaminthepastrycase,sprinklewiththeremainingcoconutandleavetosetinthefridge.Servecold,withalittlecream.

Manywillrememberthispuddingfondly,asafeatureofschool-dinnermenusfromthe1950sonwards.Withitspastrybase,hiddenlayerofjam,creamy

custardandgenerouscoconuttopping,it’sconsideredasimpler,moremodernvariationonthetraditionalManchesterpudding(seehere).

Pineappleupside-downpuddingCOOKINGTIME50–60MINUTES

SERVES4–6

2heapedtbspgoldensyrup1×400gtinofpineapplerings,drained4glacécherries,halved120g(4oz)castersugar120g(4oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing2largeeggs,beaten

120g(4oz)self-raisingflour,sifted

1tspbakingpowderCream,icecreamorcustard,toserve

PREHEATTHEOVENTO170°C(325°F),GasMark3.Greasea20cm(8in)sandwichtinandlinethebasewithnon-stickbakingparchment.Spreadthegoldensyrupacrossthebaseofthetinandarrangethepineappleringsandcherriesontop.

PLACETHESUGAR,BUTTER,EGGS,flourandbakingpowderinamixingbowlandbeattogetherwithanelectrichandmixeruntilsmoothandpaleincolour.Spreadthemixtureevenlyoverthepineappleringsinthetin.

BAKEINTHEOVENFOR50–60minutesuntilthespongeisgoldenandjustshrinkingawayfromthesidesofthetin.Invertontoaplateandservehotorcold,withcream,icecreamorcustard.

TreacletartCOOKINGTIME30–40MINUTES

SERVES4–6

225g(8oz)shortcrustpastry(seehere),chilled180ml(6floz)goldensyrup60g(2oz)breadcrumbsFinelygratedzestandjuiceof1unwaxedlemonororange

1egg,beatenVanillaicecream,toserve

PREHEATTHEOVENTO190°C(375°F),GasMark5.Rolloutthreequartersofthepastryontheflouredsurfaceanduseittolinea20cm(8in)piedish(seehere).Reservetherestofthepastrytousefordecoration.

WARMTHEGOLDENSYRUPgentlyinasaucepanorthemicrowave,mixwiththebreadcrumbsandspreadintheuncookedpastrycase.Pouroverthelemonororangejuiceandsprinklewiththezest.

ROLLOUTTHEREMAININGPASTRYandcutintostrips1cm(½in)wide.Arrangethemoverthefillinginacriss-crosspatterntomakeaprettylatticetop.Brushwithbeateneggandbakeintheovenfor30–40minutes.Servewithvanillaicecream.

FAMILYFAVOURITES

CHAPTER3

Everyoneenjoyssomethingsweetattheendofamealandthischapterisfullofsatisfyingpuddingsthatareboundtopleasethe

wholefamily.Whetheryouwantaquickmidweekpuddingoraneasyweekendtreat,thesesimplebutdeliciousoptionsareidealforwhentimeandingredientsarelimited.Ourtoffeeapplepuddingwillbeabighitwiththekids,BakewelltartisboundtoimpressGrannyorany

unexpectedguests,andlemonmeringuepiewillhaveeveryoneclamouringforsecondhelpings.Manyofthesemuch-lovedstaplerecipeswerepasseddownthegenerationsofourownfamiliesandhavestoodthetestoftime,sowehopethatsomeofthemmay

becomearegularpartofyourrepertoire.

FamilyFavourites

StickypearpuddingStrawberryjamomeletteSpicyapplelayerpuddingSyrupandapplespongeApplebrownBettyBakedapplesBakedapplesinblanketsAppletartAppleflapjackToffeeapplepuddingApplecharlotteBlackberry,appleandcinnamoncrumbleCinnamonandapplebreadpuddingLemonspongeLemonmeringuepieBanoffeepuddingOrangeupside-downpuddingSevilleorangemarmaladepuddingsRhubarbandgingerpuddingsPlumandalmondpuddingsBakewelltart

StrawberryjamomeletteCOOKINGTIME5–10MINUTES

SERVES4

1tbspcastersugar

2tbspdoubleorwhippingcream4eggs,separated30g(1oz)unsaltedbutter45g(1½oz)good-qualitystrawberryjam

2tbspicingsugarCreamorcustard,toserve

INALARGEBOWL,beatthecastersugar,creamandeggyolksuntilpale.Inaseparatebowl,beattheeggwhitesuntiltheyformsoftpeaks.Gentlyfoldthisintotheyolkmix.

PREHEATTHEGRILLTOAMEDIUMHEAT.Meltthebutterinamedium,ovenprooffryingpanuntilitstartstofoam,thenaddtheeggmix.Cookoveralowheatfor1–2minutesuntilthebaseoftheomeletteisset.Placeunderthegrillfor2–3minutesuntilthetophasjustset.

MEANWHILE,WARMTHEJAMinasmallsaucepanorthemicrowave.Spreadthisontopofthecookedomeletteandsprinklewiththeicingsugar.Foldtheomeletteinhalfandservewithcreamorcustard.

SpicyapplelayerpuddingCOOKINGTIME2½HOURS

SERVES4–6

Butter,forgreasing

2tbspgoldensyrup150g(5oz)demerarasugar120g(4oz)sultanas

2tbsplemonjuice4largecookingapples,coredpeeledandsliced

1tspgroundcinnamonCustard,toserveForthesuetpastry225g(8oz)self-raisingflour,plusextrafordustingPinchofsalt

120g(4oz)vegetablesuetTOMAKETHESUETPASTRY,sifttheflourandsaltintoamixingbowl,addthesuetandmixwith150ml(5floz)coldwatertoformastiffdough.Divideroughlyintofourpieces,placeonaflouredsurfaceandpressorrolloutintocircles,graduatinginsizetofita1.1-litre(2-pint)puddingbasin.

GREASETHEBASIN.Spoonthegoldensyrupintothebottomofthebasin.Mixtheremainingingredientstogether.Placethesmallestcircleofpastryinthebasin,thenaddalayeroftheapplefilling,thenalternatewithpastryandfilling,finishingwiththelargestcircleofpastryontop.Coversecurelywithalidorfoilandsteamfor2½hours.Turnoutontoaservingdishandservewithcustard.

SyrupandapplespongeCOOKINGTIME1½HOURS

SERVES4–6

90g(3oz)unsaltedbutter,plusextraforgreasing240g(8½oz)self-raisingflour,sifted90g(3oz)castersugarFinelygratedzestof½unwaxedlemon(juicetoserve)½tspgroundcinnamon

1egg,beatenMilk,tomix3tbspgoldensyrup,plusoptionalextratoserve

1largecookingapple,peeledandcored

Custard,toserveGREASEA1.7-LITRE(3-pint)puddingbasin.Putthebutterandsiftedflourinamixingbowland,usingyourfingertips,rubtogetheruntilthetextureislikefinecrumbs,thenstirinthesugar,lemonzestandcinnamon.Mixintheeggandenoughmilktoreachasoftdroppingconsistency.

POURTHEGOLDENSYRUPintothebottomofthegreasedbasin.Thinlyslicetheappleandarrangetheslicesfannedoutinacircleontopofthesyrup.Spooninthespongemixture,coversecurelywithalidorfoilandsteamfor1½hours.Turnoutandservewithcustard,orgoldensyrupmeltedwithalittlelemonjuice.

ApplebrownBettyCOOKINGTIME30–40MINUTES

SERVES6

800g(1¾lb)peeled,choppedBramleyapple½tspgroundcinnamonGratedzestandjuiceof2oranges25g(1oz)demerarasugar200g(7oz)sweetbiscuits(digestivesorsimilar),crushed50g(2oz)breadcrumbs

50g(2oz)flakedorchoppednuts50g(2oz)unsaltedbutterCreamoricecream,toservePREHEATTHEOVENTO175°C(340°F),GasMark3–4.Mixtogetherthechoppedapple,cinnamon,orangejuiceandhalfthezestinashallow,20cm(8in)square,ovenproofbakingdish.

COMBINETHESUGAR,crushedbiscuits,breadcrumbsandnutswiththerestoftheorangezestandspreadthisovertheapplemixture.Placesmallpiecesofbutteracrossthetopofthecrumbmix.

BAKEINTHEOVENFOR30–40minutesuntiltheappleiscookedandthecrumbtopiscrispandbrown.Servewithcreamoricecream.

ThisfamilyrecipecomesfromJillCoombe,fromThePuddingClub.SheinheriteditfromGrannyCoombe,whobakeditregularly.It’squicktomakeand

abitofcheat,butabsolutelydeliciousnonetheless.

BakedapplesCOOKINGTIME30MINUTES

SERVES4

4cookingapples,suchasBramleySeedling

75g(3oz)unsaltedbutter,plusextraforgreasingPinchofgroundgingerorcinnamon100g(3½oz)softlightbrownsugarChilledthickcreamoricecream,toservePREHEATTHEOVENTO180°C(350°F),GasMark4.Wipeandcoretheapples.Makeashallowcutroundthemiddlecircumferenceoftheapples,piercingtheskinbutgoingnodeeper,sothattheapplesdon’tburstduringcooking.

GREASEASHALLOW,ovenproofbakingdishthatcanholdalltheapplestightly.Placetheapplesinthedishandputapieceofbutterintothecavityofeach,followedbyapinchofyourchosenspice,thenfillupeachapplewithsugar.Dotthetopoftheappleswiththeremainingbutter.Ifyouhaveanysugarorbutterremaining,distributeitacrossthebottomofthedish.

BAKETHEAPPLESFOR30minutesoruntiltheircentresaresoftandfluffyandthebutterandsugarhaveturnedintoathintoffee.Servestraightfromtheovenwithchilledthickcreamoricecream.

IfyoufindyourselfinKentvisittheNationalFruitCollectionatBrogdaleFarmnearFaversham.Thereareahugenumberofappleandotherfruittreesand

cultivars.

BakedapplesinblanketsCOOKINGTIME30MINUTES

SERVES4

Butter,forgreasingPlainflour,fordusting300g(11oz)shortcrustpastry(seehere)½tspmixedspice50g(2oz)castersugar50g(2oz)sultanas1tbspbrandy

4mediumBramleyapples1egg,beatenMilk,forbrushingCustard,toserve

PREHEATTHEOVENTO200°C(400°F),GasMark6andgreaseabakingsheet.Onaflouredsurface,rolloutthepastryandcutintofoursquares,eachlargeenoughtofullyencaseawholeapple.

COMBINETHEMIXEDSPICE,sugar,sultanasandbrandytogetherinasmallbowl.Peelandcoretheapplesandplaceoneinthecentreofeachpastrysquare.Filltheholeineachapplewiththespicemixture.Pulluptheedgesofthepastrysothattheapplesareenclosedandpresstogetheratthetop.

ARRANGETHEPASTRYPARCELSonthegreasedbakingsheetwiththejoinspositionedunderneath.Brushwithbeateneggandmilkandbakeintheovenfor30minutesuntilgoldenbrown.Servewithcustard.

AppletartCOOKINGTIME40–45MINUTES

SERVES6–8

900g(2lb)BramleyorCoxapples,peeledandcored100g(3½oz)castersugar

2tbsplemonjuice225g(8oz)shortcrustpastry(seehere),chilled100g(3½oz)apricotjamCreamoricecream,toserve

SLICE700g(1½lb)OFTHEPEELED,coredapplesandplaceinasaucepanwiththesugar,lemonjuiceand100ml(3½floz)water.Bringtotheboilandsimmeruntiltheapplebreaksdownintoapulp.Passthroughasieveandleavetocool.

ROLLOUTTHECHILLEDPASTRYonaflouredsurfaceuntil5mm(¼in)thickanduseittolinea23cm(9in)tartdish(seehere).Refrigeratefor30minutes,thenpreheattheovento190°C(400°F),GasMark5andblindbakethepastrycasefor25minutes(seehere).Removefromtheovenandsetaside.Leavetheoventurnedon.

PLACETHECOOLEDAPPLEPURÉEinthecookedpastrycaseandsmooththesurface.Slicetheremainingapplethinlyandplaceneatlyontothetartinacircle,graduallyoverlappingtheslicesuntiltheapplepuréeiscompletelycovered.

RETURNTHETARTTOTHEOVENandbakefor20–25minutes.Assoonasyou’veremovedthetartfromtheoven,heattheapricotjaminasmallsaucepanorthemicrowave.Useapastrybrushtobrushthemeltedjamontotheappletogiveitaniceglaze.Servethetartwarmorcold,withcreamoricecream.

AppleflapjackCOOKINGTIME35MINUTES

SERVES4–6

960g(2lb2oz)cookingapples,peeled,coredandsliced6tbspcastersugar

4tbspgoldensyrup170g(6oz)unsaltedbutter,plusextraforgreasing240g(8½oz)rolledoats¼tspsalt

1tspgroundgingerIcingsugar,todredgeCustard,toserve

PLACEMOSTOFTHEAPPLESLICESinasaucepan(reserveafewslicesfordecoration)with3½tablespoonsofthecastersugar,coverwithalidandsimmergentlyuntilsoftandpulpy.

PUT2TABLESPOONSOFCASTERSUGARinanothersaucepanwiththegoldensyrupand150g(5oz)ofthebutter,andheatgentlyuntildissolved.Removefromtheheatandstirintheoats,saltandginger.

PREHEATTHEOVENTO190°C(375°F),GasMark5andgreaseashallow20cm(8in)piedish.Usethree-quartersoftheoatmixturetolinethebaseandsidesupto2.5cm(1in)fromthetop.Pourovertheapplemixtureandcoverwiththeremainingoatmixture.Pressdownlightly.

BAKEINTHEOVENFORABOUT35minutes.Justbeforetheendofthecookingtime,gentlyfrythereservedappleslicesintheremainingbutterandabout1teaspoonofcastersugar.Removetheflapjackfromtheovenanddredgewithicingsugar.Decoratewiththefriedappleslicesandservewithcustard.

ToffeeapplepuddingCOOKINGTIME2HOURS

SERVES6

200g(7oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing200g(7oz)softlightbrownsugar

4eggs,beaten200g(7oz)self-raisingflour,sifted150g(5oz)peeled,coredandchoppedBramleyappleCustard,toserve

Forthetoffeesauce30g(1oz)unsaltedbutter70ml(2½floz)whippingcream85g(3oz)softdarkbrownsugar

GREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasin.Inamixingbowl,creamtogetherthebutterandsugaruntilpaleandfluffy.Addthebeateneggsasmallamountatatime–ifthemixtureseparates,juststirinalittleoftheflour.Graduallyfoldintheremainingflour,thenadd100g(3½oz)ofthechoppedappleandmixwell.

TOMAKETHETOFFEESAUCE,putthebutter,creamanddarkbrownsugarinasaucepan,bringtotheboilandsimmeruntilthesaucethickensslightly.Pourthesauceintothebottomofthegreasedbasin,addtheremaining50g(2oz)ofchoppedapple,thenpourthespongemixtureontop.

SEALTHEBASINwithalidorfoilandsteamforapproximately2hoursuntilfirmtothetouch.Turnoutontoaservingplateandservewithcustard.

FortheEnglish,toffeeapplesaresynonymouswithBonfireNight,butinScotland,IrelandandtheUS,thesesugarytreats-onsticksaremorecommonly

eatenatHalloween.

WHYNOTTRY…?It’snicetoservealittleextratoffeesaucealongsidethis.Simplyincreasethe

saucequantitiesasyouwish,andkeepbacktheextraproportionwhenfillingthebasin.

ApplecharlotteCOOKINGTIME45MINUTES

SERVES4

450g(1lb)peeled,coredandchoppedapples(BramleyorCoxareideal)

1tbspcastersugar110g(4oz)unsaltedbutter6medium-thicknessslicesofbread,crustsremoved

1eggyolkCreamorcustard,toserve

PLACETHECHOPPEDAPPLESinasaucepanwiththesugarand25g(1oz)ofthebutter.Cookoveralowheatuntilsoftandbrokendown.Removefromtheheatandpuréetheappleinthepanwithahandblender.Leavetocool.

MELTTHEREMAINING85g(3oz)ofbutterinasaucepanorthemicrowaveandbrushitoveronesideofeachbreadslice,makingsurethebreadiswellcovered.Cutintorectanglesandusemostofthemtolinea20–25cm(8–10in)puddingbasinorroundcaketin,12cm(4½in)indepth,placingthepiecesbuttered-sidedownandslightlyoverlapping(reservealittlebreadforthetop).Pressdownfirmly.

PREHEATTHEOVENTO180°C(350°F),GasMark4.Whentheapplepuréeiscool,whiskintheeggyolkandpourthemixtureintothebread-linedbasinortin.Coverwiththeremainingslicedbread,butter-sideup,andpressdownfirmly.Bakeintheovenfor45minutes,untilgoldenbrown.Carefullyturnoutontoawarmedplateandservewithcreamorcustard.

Blackberry,appleandcinnamoncrumble

COOKINGTIME35–45MINUTES

SERVES6–8

245g(8½oz)self-raisingflour½tspgroundcinnamon165g(5½oz)demerarasugar60g(2oz)unsaltedbutter,cutintopieces60g(2oz)margarine

1tspvanillaessence450g(1lb)peeled,coredandslicedBramleyapples250g(9oz)blackberriesCastersugar,totasteCustardorcream,toserveTOPREPARETHECRUMBLETOPPING,sifttheflourandcinnamontogetherintoamixingbowl,addthedemerarasugarandmixwell.Addthebutter,margarineandvanillaessenceandmixtoafinecrumbconsistencywithyourfingertips.Placeinthefridgetochill.

PREHEATTHEOVENTO200°C(400°F),GasMark6.Mixtheapplesandblackberriestogetherwithcastersugartotasteandplaceinthebottomofadeep,30cm(12in)ovalovenproofbakingdish.

ADDTHECRUMBLETOPPINGandpresstofirmthetopalittle.Bakeintheovenfor35–45minutesuntilgoldenbrown.Servewithcustardorcream.

Youcansubstitutepartoftheself-raisingflourwithporridgeoats.Youcanalsousechoppedhazelnutsforaddedcrunch.

CinnamonandapplebreadpuddingCOOKINGTIME35–45MINUTES

SERVES6

Butter,forgreasing300g(11oz)whitebread,cutintoapprox.1cm(½in)cubes300g(11oz)peeled,coredandchoppedcookingapple120g(4oz)goldencastersugar

2tspgroundcinnamon200ml(7floz)milk200ml(7floz)whippingcream4eggs

2tspvanillaessenceToffeesauce,toserve(seehere)

PREHEATTHEOVENTO180°C(350°F),GasMark4andgreasea30cm(12in)ovalovenproofbakingdish.Placeabouthalfthebreadcubesandchoppedappleinthebottom,makingsuretheyareevenlymixedinthedish.

MIXTOGETHERTHESUGARandcinnamoninasmallbowl.Sprinkleabouthalfoverthebreadandapple,thenspreadtheremainingbreadandappleontop.Whisktogetherthemilk,cream,eggsandvanillaessenceuntilwellcombined.Pourthisoverthepuddingandleavefor10–15minutesfortheliquidtobeabsorbedintothebread.

SPRINKLETHEREMAININGSUGARandcinnamonontothetopandbakeintheovenfor35–45minutesuntilgoldenbrown.Thecentreofthepuddingshouldstillbeniceandmoistandthetopcrispy.Servewithtoffeesauce.

LemonspongeCOOKINGTIME1½HOURS

SERVES4–6

200g(7oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing200g(7oz)castersugar3eggs,beaten

200g(7oz)self-raisingflour,siftedFinelygratedzestandjuiceof1unwaxedlemon

3tbsplemoncurdCustard,toserve

GREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasin.Inamixingbowl,creamtogetherthebutterandsugaruntilpaleandfluffy.Graduallyaddthebeatenegg–ifthemixtureseparates,juststirinalittleoftheflour.Foldintheremainingflourandthelemonzestandjuice.

PUTTHELEMONCURDinthebaseofthegreasedbasinandpourthespongemixturecarefullyoverthetop.Coversecurelywithalidorfoilandsteamfor1½hours.Turnoutandservewithcustard.

VariationLemonandsyrupspongeMakeasdescribed,butusinggoldencastersugarandomittingthelemonjuicefromthespongemixture.Insteadoflemoncurd,warm3tablespoonsofgoldensyrupinasaucepanorthemicrowave,mixwiththelemonjuiceandplaceinthebasin.Pourthespongemixtureoverthetop,coverandsteamfor2hours.Servewithextrasyrupmixedwithlemonjuice,aswellascustardoricecream.

LemonmeringuepieCOOKINGTIME1HOUR10MINUTES

SERVES6

Flour,fordusting225g(8oz)shortcrustpastry(seehere)

3tbspcornflour225g(8oz)castersugarGratedzestandjuiceof2large,unwaxedlemons3largeeggs,separated40g(1½oz)unsaltedbutterPouringcream,toserve

ONAFLOUREDSURFACE,rolloutthepastrytoacircle2cm(¾in)largerindiameterthantherimofadeep20cm(8in)piedish.Cuta1cm(½in)stripfromallthewayaroundtheedgeofthepastry,dampentherimofthedishandpressonthestrip.Linethedishwiththepastrycircle(seehere),ensuringnoairistrappedunderneath.Prickthebasealloverwithaforkandputinthefridgefor30minutes;thishelpstopreventthepastryshrinkingwhilebaking.

PREHEATTHEOVENTO190°C(375°F),GasMark5andblindbakethechilledpastrycasefor25minutesoruntilcookedthrough(seehere).Removefromtheovenandturndownthetemperatureto150°C(300°F),GasMark2.

MEANWHILE,MAKETHEFILLING.Measure275ml(½pint)coldwaterintoajugandspoonthecornflourand50g(2oz)ofthesugarintoabowl.Addenoughofthewatertomixtoasmoothpaste,thenpourtheremainingwaterintoasmallsaucepanandaddthelemonzest.Bringtotheboilandthenpourthisgraduallyontothecornflourpaste,mixingallthetimeuntilsmooth.

RETURNTHEMIXTURETOTHEPANandbringbacktotheboil,stillmixingcontinuously.Simmerverygentlyforabout1minute,continuingtostir.Removethepanfromtheheatandbeatintheeggyolks,lemonjuiceandbutter.Pourthelemonmixtureintothepastrycaseandspreadoutevenly.

TOMAKETHEMERINGUE,whisktheeggwhitesinalarge,scrupulouslycleanbowl

untiltheyformstiffpeaks.Whiskintheremaining175g(6oz)ofsugaraboutaquarteratatime,untilcompletelyincorporated.Withapaletteknife,spreadthemeringueoverthelemonfillinginthepastrycase,takingitrighttotheedgesofthepastryrimsothatthepieissealed.Ifyouwish,youcanmakedecorativeswirlsinthemeringueusingthepaletteknife.

BAKEONTHECENTRESHELFoftheovenfor45minutes,bywhichtimethemeringuewillbepalebeige,crispontheoutsideandsoftwithin.Servewarmorcold(butleavetosettlefor20minutesifservingwarm).Accompanywithchilledpouringcream.

ItiswidelybelievedthatmeringuewasinventedintheSwisstownofMeiringenin1720,althoughdoubtshavebeenraisedbyasimilarrecipediscoveredinanearlierFrenchcookbook,andbytheappearanceoftheword‘meringue’inanearliereditionoftheEnglishdictionary.Butwhateverthetruth–Swissor

French–nobodycanarguethatthelemonmeringuepiehasdevelopedatrulyBritishidentity.

BanoffeepuddingCOOKINGTIME1½HOURS

SERVES4–6

3ripebananas120g(4oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing120g(4oz)castersugar1largeegg

1tbspmilk120g(4oz)self-raisingflour½tspbakingpowder

2tsplemonjuiceCustard,toserve

Forthetoffeesauce4½tbspdoublecream15g(½oz)unsaltedbutter60g(2oz)softdarkbrownsugarLIGHTLYGREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasin.Placethesauceingredientsinasaucepanandmelttogetheroveralowheat.Peelandsliceonebananaandputinthebottomofthegreasedbasin.Pourinthetoffeesauce.

INAMIXINGBOWL,creamtogetherthebutterandsugar,thenbeatintheeggandmilk.Sifttheflourandbakingpowdertogetherintoaseparatebowl.Peeltheremainingtwobananasandmashwiththelemonjuice.Stirthemashedbananasintothecreamedmixturethenfoldinthesiftedflour.

MIXTOENSUREEVERYTHINGiswellincorporatedandpourintothebasin.Coverwellwithalidorfoilandsteamfor1½hours.Turnoutontoaplateandservewithcustard.

ThecombinationofbananasandtoffeewasdevisedbyaSussexchefintheearly1970s,asthewell-knownpieofthesamename.ItprovedinstantlypopularinBritainandquicklycaughtonaroundtheworld.Inthisrecipetheflavourshave

beentranslatedintoadeliciousspongepudding.

Orangeupside-downpuddingCOOKINGTIME35–40MINUTES

SERVES6–8

125g(4½oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing125g(4½oz)castersugar

2eggs125g(4½oz)self-raisingflour2sweetoranges4tbspgoldensyrup

2ballsofstemgingerWhippedcreamoricecream,toserve

PREHEATTHEOVENTO180°C(350°F),GasMark4andgreaseadeep20cm(8in)caketin.Inamixingbowl,creamtogetherthebutterandsugaruntilpaleandfluffy.Addtheeggsoneatatime–ifthemixturestartstosplit,justaddalittleoftheflour.Zestoneoftheorangesandaddthegratedzesttothecreamedmixture,thenfoldintheremainingflour.

SPOONTHEGOLDENSYRUPintothebottomofthegreasedtinandspreadtocoverthebase.Peelbothoranges,removingtheskinandpith.Slicethemthinlyandarrangetheslicesoverlappingontopofthegoldensyrup.Slicethestemgingerandplaceontopoftheorangeslices.

SPREADTHESPONGEMIXTUREovertheorangeandgingerslices.Bakeintheovenfor35–40minutesuntilfirm.Leavetocool,thenturnoutontoaservingplateandservewithwhippedcreamoricecream.

SevilleorangemarmaladepuddingsCOOKINGTIME45–60MINUTES

MAKES8

240g(8½oz)good-quality,thick-cut,Sevilleorangemarmalade200g(7oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing200g(7oz)castersugar

4eggs½tspvanillaessence200g(7oz)self-raisingflour,siftedGratedzestandjuiceof1orangeCustard,toserveGREASEEIGHT150–200ml(5–7floz)ovenproofpuddingbasins.Place30g(1oz)ofthemarmaladeintothebottomofeach.

INAMIXINGBOWL,creamtogetherthebutterandsugaruntilpaleandfluffy.Addtheeggsandvanillaessence–ifthemixtureseparates,juststirinalittleofthesiftedflour.Foldtheremainingflourintothecreamedmixtureandstirwell.Finallyaddtheorangezestandjuice.

DIVIDETHEMIXTUREEVENLYbetweenthepuddingbasins.Sealwithlidsorfoilandsteamfor45–60minutesuntilcooked.Turnoutandservewithcustard.

Sevilleorangesareonlyavailableforaveryshorttimeatthebeginningoftheyear,solookoutforthemifyouwanttomakeyourownmarmalade.

RhubarbandgingerpuddingsCOOKINGTIME45–60MINUTES

MAKES8

200g(7oz)freshrhubarb50g(2oz)stemginger,finelychopped200ml(7floz)gingersyrup(fromthestemgingerjar)200g(7oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing200g(7oz)castersugar

4eggs200g(7oz)self-raisingflour½tspbakingpowder

2tbspgroundgingerGratedzestandjuiceof1orangeCustard,vanillaicecreamorvanillayoghurt,toserveGREASEEIGHT200ml(7floz)puddingbasins.Choptherhubarbinto2–3cm(¾–1in)pieces.Drainthestemgingerandmeasureouttherequiredsyrupfromthejar.Put5teaspoonsofthegingersyrupintoeachbasinandtopwith25g(1oz)ofthechoppedrhubarb.

INAMIXINGBOWL,creamtogetherthebutterandsugaruntilpaleandfluffy.Graduallyaddtheeggs–ifthemixtureseparates,juststirinalittleoftheflour.Sifttheremainingflourintoaseparatebowl,togetherwiththebakingpowderandgroundginger.Foldthemintothecreamedmixtureandstirwelltoincorporate.

ADDTHEORANGEZESTandjuiceandthechoppedstemginger.Themixtureshouldbefairlyfluid;divideitevenlybetweenthegreasedbasinsandsealwithlidsorfoil.Steamfor45–60minutes.Turnoutandservewithcustard,vanillaicecreamorvanillayoghurt.

PlumandalmondpuddingsCOOKINGTIME15–20MINUTES

MAKES8

100g(3½oz)unsaltedbutter,softened100g(3½oz)castersugar

2eggs½tspalmondessence100g(3½oz)self-raisingflour50g(2oz)groundalmonds240g(8½oz)dicedorslicedVictoriaplums40g(1½oz)goldensyrupThickcreamorvanillaicecream,toservePREHEATTHEOVENTO180°C(350°F),GasMark4.Inamixingbowl,creamtogetherthebutterandsugaruntilpaleandfluffy.Addtheeggsandalmondessence–ifthemixtureseparates,juststirinalittleoftheflour.Foldintheremainingflourandgroundalmondsandmixwell.

PLACE30g(1oz)oftheplumsandabout1teaspoonofthesyrupinthebottomofeight200ml(7floz)ovenproofpuddingbasins.Pour80g(3oz)ofthespongemixintoeachbasinandbakeforapproximately15minutes,untilfirmtothetouchandgoldenbrown.Turnoutandservewiththickcreamorvanillaicecream.

ThePuddingClubisontheedgeoftheValeofEvesham–oneofthefruit-growingcentresofEngland–andwecreatedthisrecipewhenwehadaglutofplumsoneyear.ThebestplumsareVictoria,delicioustoeatontheirown,or

spoilyourselfanduseafewinthisrecipe.

BakewelltartCOOKINGTIME40MINUTES

SERVES8

375g(13oz)shortcrustpastry(seehere),chilled225g(8oz)unsaltedbutter,softened225g(8oz)castersugar

225g(8oz)groundalmonds

3eggs50g(2oz)plainflour,plusextrafordustingGratedzestof1unwaxedlemon350g(12oz)good-qualityraspberryjam25g(1oz)flakedalmondsCustardorcream,toserveROLLOUTTHECHILLEDPASTRYonaflouredsurfaceuntil5mm(¼in)thickanduseittolinea30cm(12in)tartdish(seehere).Refrigeratefor30minutes,thenpreheattheovento190°C(400°F),GasMark5andblindbakethechilledpastrycasefor25minutes(seehere).Removefromtheovenandsetaside.Reducetheoventemperatureto180°C(350°F),GasMark4.

TOMAKETHEFILLING,creamtogetherthebutterandsugarinamixingbowluntilpaleandfluffy.Mixinthegroundalmonds,thenaddtheeggstothemixtureoneatatime,mixingwellwitheachaddition.Ifthemixtureseparates,juststirinalittleoftheflour.Finally,addtheremainingflourandlemonzestandmixtocombine.

SPREADTHERASPBERRYJAMacrossthebaseofthecookedpastrycase.Pourthefillingoverthejamandlevelitout.Sprinkletheflakedalmondsontop.Bakeintheovenfor20minutes,untilsetandgoldenbrown.Allowtocoolandservewithcustardorcream.

ManythinkthisistheoriginalconfectionfromtheDerbyshiretown,buttheyaresadlymistaken,asthistartisthepretendertotheBakewellpuddingthrone(seehere).Ithasbecomefamousnonetheless,alongwiththemuch-disputedtheory

thatitcameaboutwhenarecipeforjamtartswentwrong.

FORGOTTENPUDDINGS

CHAPTER4

SomeBritishpuddingscanbetracedbackasfarasthe15thcentury.Withsuchalong-tailedhistory,it’snosurprisethatwehavesomanytochoosefrom.Butovertheyears,trendsforsweettreatshavecomeandgone,andmanyonce-lovedpudsarenowalmostforgotten.Soin

thischapterwewanttoremindeveryoneaboutsomeneglectedpuddingsthatdeservetobecookedandenjoyedanew!Manyofthemwillbeunknowntoyou;wehopeyouwillgivethematryandenjoylearningthequirkystoriesabouttheiroriginsandhowtheygained

theirnames.We’dloveyoutosharethesepuddingswithyourfriendsandhelpussavethemfromextinction.

ForgottenPuddings

Duchess’spuddingDukeofCambridgetartOxfordpuddingPoorknightsofWindsorRhubarbhatVictoria’spuddingPrinceAlbertpuddingCharlotteroyaleCollegepuddingThreeandthreepuddingAppledappyApplebolsterCabinetpuddingSussexpondpuddingKentishwellpuddingBakewellpuddingNottinghambatterpuddingBlackberryExeterpuddingManchesterpuddingsLightcloutiedumplingScottishflummery

Duchess’spuddingCOOKINGTIME1½–2HOURS

SERVES4–6

120g(4oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing120g(4oz)castersugar

2eggs,beaten150g(5oz)self-raisingflour60g(2oz)mixeddriedfruit30g(1oz)glacécherries,chopped30g(1oz)shelledwalnuts,choppedFewdropsofalmondessenceMilk,tomix

Custard,toserveGREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasin.Inamixingbowl,creamtogetherthebutterandsugaruntilpaleandfluffy.Graduallyaddtheeggstothecreamedmixture,beatingwellaftereachaddition.

SIFTINTHEFLOUR,thenaddthemixedfruit,cherries,nuts,almondessenceandenoughmilktogiveasoftdroppingconsistency.Pourintothegreasedbasin,coverwithalidorfoilandsteamfor1½–2hours.Turnoutandservewithcustard.

DukeofCambridgetartCOOKINGTIME40MINUTES

SERVES6

225g(8oz)shortcrustpastry(seehere)Plainflour,fordusting50g(2oz)choppedmixedcandiedpeel50g(2oz)glacécherries,chopped25g(1oz)angelica,chopped75g(3oz)unsaltedbutter75g(3oz)castersugar

2eggyolksCream,toserve

GREASEAN18cm(7in)tartorsandwichtin.Alternatively,youcanusesixindividualtarttins.Rolloutthepastryonaflouredsurfaceanduseittolinethegreasedtin(s).Chillinthefridgefor30minutestoavoidthepastryshrinkingwhilebaking.

PREHEATTHEOVENTO190°C(375°F),GasMark5.Sprinklethechilledpastrywiththechoppedcandiedpeel,cherriesandangelica.Putthebutter,sugarandeggyolksintoasmallsaucepanandbringtotheboil,beatingwithawoodenspoon.Whenboiling,pouroverthefruitinthepastrycase(s).

BAKEINTHEOVENFOR30–40MINUTES;checkafter30minutesandcoverwithfoilifthepastryisbrowningtoomuch.Individualtartswillneedlesscookingtime(givethem20–25minutesbutcheckthemregularly).Servewarmwithcream.

OxfordpuddingCOOKINGTIME3HOURS

SERVES4–6

Butter,forgreasing60g(2oz)softdarkbrownsugar180g(6½oz)self-raisingflourPinchofsalt

60g(2oz)groundrice120g(4oz)shreddedsuet120g(4oz)goldensyrup,plusextratoserve120g(4oz)thick-cutmarmalade1egg,beaten

2tbspmilkCustard,toserve

THOROUGHLYGREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasinandpressthesugarontothesidesandthebase.Sifttheflourandsalttogetherintoamixingbowlandaddthegroundrice.Stirinthesuet,goldensyrupandmarmalade.

MIXTOGETHERTHEBEATENEGGANDMILK,thenpourthisontotheotheringredients,mixingwelltocombine.Pourintothegreasedbasin,coverwithalidorfoilandsteamfor3hours,toppingupwithboilingwaterasnecessary.Turnoutandservewithwarmedgoldensyrupandcustard.

PoorknightsofWindsorCOOKINGTIME10MINUTES

SERVES4–6

3tbspsinglecream2eggs3tbspmediumsherry1tbspgroundcinnamon

2tbspcastersugar6slicesofday-oldwhitebread,1.25cm(½in)thick,crustsremovedUnsaltedbutter,forfryingJam,toserveBEATTHECREAM,EGGSANDSHERRYtogetherwell.Mixthecinnamonandsugartogetherinasmallbowl.Cuteachsliceofbreadintothreewidefingersanddipeachpieceintotheeggmixturetocoatbothsides.

MELTTHEBUTTERINALARGEFRYINGPANuntilsizzling.Frythecoatedbreadslicesuntilcrispandgoldenbrownonbothsides.Pilethecookedslicesontoawarmservingdishandsprinklewiththecinnamonsugar.Servewithajamsauce,madebygentlymeltingsomejaminasmallsaucepanandmixingwithalittlewater.

Stalebreadistransformedintoadeliciousrichdessert,notunlikeFrenchtoast.OnetheorysuggeststhenamecameaboutbecausethepuddingwasservedtoretiredmilitaryofficersatWindsorCastleaspaymentforofficiatingatservices

andceremonies.

RhubarbhatCOOKINGTIME2–3HOURS

SERVES4–6

Butter,forgreasing90g(3oz)breadcrumbs30g(1oz)vegetablesuet60g(2oz)castersugar½tspgroundginger10g(½oz)stemginger,chopped240g(8½oz)freshrhubarb,choppedCustard,toserve

Forthesuetpastry240g(8½oz)self-raisingflour,plusextrafordustingPinchofsalt

120g(4oz)vegetablesuetGREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasin.Tomakethesuetpastry,sifttheflourandsaltintoamixingbowl,addthesuetandmixwithenoughcoldwatertoformafairlystiffdough.Dividethepastryintotwothirdsandonethird.Rolloutthelargerpieceonaflouredsurfaceandusetolinethegreasedbasin.Reservethesmallerpieceforthelid.

TOMAKETHEFILLING,combinethebreadcrumbs,suet,sugarandbothtypesofginger.Placehalfofthechoppedrhubarbintothebaseofthelinedbasin.Coverwithhalfofthebreadcrumbmixtureandrepeatwiththerestoftherhubarb,thentheremainingcrumbs.

ONTHEFLOUREDSURFACE,rolloutthesmallerpieceofpastryandplaceontopofthepudding,wettingtheedgestomakeitstick.Coversecurelywithalidorfoilandsteamfor2–3hours.Turnoutandservewithcustard.

Victoria’spuddingCOOKINGTIME5½HOURS

SERVES6–8

60g(2oz)stoneddates60g(2oz)demerarasugar30g(1oz)glacécherries,chopped180g(6½oz)raisinsPinchofgroundnutmeg¼tspmixedspice

2tsphoney

2tsprum120ml(4floz)coldteaButter,forgreasing90g(3oz)wholemealself-raisingflour60g(2oz)wholemealbreadcrumbs

2tbspsunfloweroil1smallbanana,peeledandmashed1egg,beatenCustard,toserve

INALARGEMIXINGBOWL,mixtogetherthefirstninelistedingredients,fromthedatestothecoldtea.Coverandleavetosteep,ideallyovernightorforatleastafewhours.

THOROUGHLYGREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasin.Combinetheremainingingredientsandmixintothesteepedmixtureuntileverythingiswellincorporated.Pourintothegreasedbasin,coverwithalidorfoilandsteamfor5½hours,addingmoreboilingwaterasnecessary.Servewithcustard.

It’sawell-knownfactthatQueenVictorialovedpuddings.Andnobodywouldexpecthernamesakepuddingtobefrugal–loadedwithdates,cherries,spices,rumandbananas,it’sapuddingfitforaqueen.Thiskeepsverywellandcanbe

reheatedbysteamingfor1½hours.

PrinceAlbertpuddingCOOKINGTIME2½HOURS

SERVES6

270g(9½oz)prunes180g(6½oz)unsaltedbutter,softened120g(4oz)castersugar

3eggs,separated45g(1½oz)groundrice120g(4oz)brownbreadcrumbsFinelygratedzestof1unwaxedlemonMilk,tomix

Creamorcustard,toserveLINETHEBASEOFA1.5-LITRE(2½-pint)puddingbasinwithacircleofgreaseproofpaper.Slicetheprunesinhalf,removingthestones.Melt60g(2oz)ofthebutterinasmallsaucepan,thendiptheprunehalvesintothemeltedbutterandusethemtocompletelylinethebasin,placingthefleshysideagainstthebasin’sedge.

INAMIXINGBOWL,creamtogethertherestofthebutterwiththesugaruntilpaleandfluffy.Beatintheeggyolksandfoldinthegroundrice,breadcrumbsandlemonzest.Mixwithenoughmilktoreachasoftdroppingconsistency.

INACLEANBOWL,beattheeggwhitestoastifffroth,foldintothepuddingmixtureandspoonitcarefullyintotheprune-linedbasin.Coversecurelywithalidorfoilandsteamfor2½hours.Turnoutandservewithcreamorcustard.

LikeQueenVictoria,itseemshusbandAlbertwasalsopartialtoapuddingortwo,andthisisjustoneofmanybespokepudsthatwereprobablyinventedinthe

palacekitchensespeciallyforthem.

CharlotteroyaleCOOKINGTIME30–40MINUTES

SERVES8

Butter,forgreasing500ml(18floz)milk2tspvanillaessence

5eggyolks150g(5oz)castersugar,plusextraforthebasin25g(1oz)gelatineleaves500ml(18floz)whippingcreamCream,toserve

FortheSwissroll

4eggs220g(8oz)castersugar120g(4oz)self-raisingflour,sifted200g(7oz)raspberryorstrawberryjamFIRSTMAKETHESWISSROLL.Preheattheovento220°C(425°F),GasMark7.Usegreaseproofpapertolineashallow,oblongbakingtrayofapprox.45×20cm(18×8in).Whisktheeggsand120g(4oz)ofthesugarinalargeheatproofbowlsetoverasaucepanofsimmeringwater(abain-marie)untilthick,creamyandwhiteincolour.Removefromtheheatthengentlyfoldthesiftedflourintothemixture.Pourintothelinedtrayandlevelout.Bakeforapproximately8minutesoruntilfirmtothetouch.

SPREADTHEREMAINING100g(3½oz)ofcastersugaronacleanteatowelandcarefullyturnthespongeoutofthetinwhilestillwarm,ontothesugaredcloth.Spreadthejamevenlyoverthesponge,thencarefullyrolluptoformaSwissroll.Trimtheendsandleavetocool.

GREASEA1.7-LITRE(3-pint)puddingbasinandcoatwithcastersugar.ThinlyslicetheSwissrollandarrangetheslicesinsidethebasinsothatitiscompletelylined.

TOMAKETHEFILLING,heatthemilkandvanillaessenceinasaucepanandbringtotheboil.Whisktogethertheeggyolksandsugarinalargemixingbowluntilthickandcreamy.Graduallypourthehotmilkontotheeggandsugarmixture,whiskingtocombine.Thenreturnthemixturetothesaucepanandheatgraduallyuntilitthickensandwillcoatthebackofaspoon;thisshouldtake5–10minutes.

SOAKTHEGELATINEincoldwateruntilsoft,thenremoveandsqueezeoutanyexcesswater.Addtothefillingandstiruntildissolved.Strainthemixturethroughasieveandleavetocool.Whipthecreamlightly,thenfoldintothefillingjustbeforeitreachessettingpoint.Pourintothebasin,andplaceinthefridgefor2hourstoset.Turnoutontoaplateandservewithcream.

CollegepuddingCOOKINGTIME2½HOURS

SERVES4–6

Butter,forgreasing120g(4oz)self-raisingflourPinchofsalt120g(4oz)breadcrumbs120g(4oz)vegetablesuet120g(4oz)raisins60g(2oz)currants30g(1oz)choppedmixedcandiedpeel90g(3oz)softlightbrownsugar

1egg,beatenApprox.6tbspmilkCustard,toserve

GREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasin.Sifttheflourandsalttogetherintoamixingbowl,thenaddthebreadcrumbs,suet,driedfruit,candiedpeelandsugarandmixtocombine.Stirinthebeateneggandenoughofthemilktoproduceasoftdroppingconsistency.

SPOONINTOTHEPUDDINGBASIN,coversecurelywithalidorfoilandsteamfor2½hours.Thispuddingturnsouteasilyiflefttorestforafewminutesaftertakingitoutofthesteamer.Servewithcustard.

So-calledbecauseitwastraditionallyservedtostudentsinthecollegehallsofOxfordandCambridge.A1617recipeforthispuddingmaybetheearliest

mentionofsuetinBritishcookery.

ThreeandthreepuddingCOOKINGTIME50MINUTES

SERVES6–8

170g(6oz)roughpuffpastry

3largecookingapples85g(3oz)castersugar,plus1extratablespoonforthemeringue85g(3oz)unsaltedbutter,plusextraforgreasing3eggs,separated

Gratedzestandjuiceof1unwaxedlemonCandiedfruits,todecorateCream,toservePREHEATTHEOVENTO190°C(375°F),GasMark5.Greasea20cm(8in)piedishandlinewiththepuffpastry(seehere).Decoratetheedgeswithleavesandflowerscutfromthetrimmings.

PEELANDCORETHEAPPLES,cutintoquartersandhalveeachpieceagain,thenplaceinasaucepanwith1tablespoonofwater.Overamediumheat,simmergentlyuntilsoft,thenremovefromtheheatandpushthesoftenedapplethroughasieve,orpuréeinthepanwithahandblender.

ADDTHESUGAR,butter,eggyolks,lemonjuiceandzesttothepuréedappleandmixwellinthepanoveralowheatforafewminutesuntilthick,butdonotallowtoboil.Transferthismixtureintotheuncookedpastrycaseandbakefor30minutes.

MEANWHILE,INASCRUPULOUSLYcleanbowl,whisktheeggwhitestostiffpeaks,thenadd1tablespoonofsugarandwhiskinwell.Pilethemeringuemixtureontothecookedfruitbase,spreadingitrighttotheedgestoseal.Decoratewithcandiedfruitsandbakeforafurther20minutesatthebottomoftheoven.Servewithcream.

Thosewithsharpeyeswillunderstandthenameofthispudding.Ofcourse,itbecomesmuchmoremysteriouswhentheingredientsaregiveninmetric…

AppledappyCOOKINGTIME30MINUTES

SERVES6–8

240g(8½oz)self-raisingflour,plusextrafordusting

1tspbakingpowder60g(2oz)unsaltedbutter,plusextraforgreasing150ml(5floz)milk480g(1lb1oz)cookingapples,peeled,coredanddiced

1tbspdemerarasugar½tspgroundallspiceorcinnamonCustardorclottedcream,toserveForthelemonsyrup

1unwaxedlemon

1tbspgoldensyrup15g(½oz)unsaltedbutter120g(4oz)castersugar

FIRST,MAKETHELEMONSYRUP.Peelthelemonasthinlyaspossibleandsqueezeoutthejuice.Putthepeel,juiceandothersyrupingredientsintoasmallsaucepanwith200ml(7floz)waterandheatgently,stirringuntilthesugarisdissolved.Leavetostanduntilneeded.

PREHEATTHEOVENTO190°C(375°F),GasMark5.Thoroughlygreaseabakingtinorovenproofbakingdish.Sifttheflourandbakingpowderintoafoodprocessor,addthebutterandprocesstofinebreadcrumbs.(Alternatively,putinalargemixingbowlandrubtogetherwithyourfingertipsuntiltheyresemblebreadcrumbs.)Mixinthemilktoformadough.

ROLLOUTTHEDOUGHonaflouredsurfacetoa20cm(8in)square,approx.5mm(¼in)thick.Spreadthechoppedapplesontothedoughandsprinklewiththesugarandspice.RollupverytightlylikeaSwissrollandcutinto2.5cm(1in)slices.

ARRANGETHESLICESinthegreasedbakingtinordishinasinglelayer.Removethepeelfromthesyrupandpourovertheslices.Bakeintheovenfor30minutes,oruntiltheslicesarepuffedupandgoldenbrown.Servewithcustardorclottedcream.

ThedappyhailsfromtheWestCountry,whereapplesaregrowninabundancethroughoutDorset,Somerset,DevonandCornwallforthelocalcidertrade.

ApplebolsterCOOKINGTIME40MINUTES

SERVES4–6

Butter,forgreasing225g(8oz)self-raisingflour,plusextrafordusting½tspsalt

100g(3½oz)shreddedsuetApprox.135ml(4½floz)milk,plus1tbspforbrushing450g(1lb)cookingapples50g(2oz)softlightbrownsugar50g(2oz)sultanas

¼tspmixedspice¼tspgroundcinnamonCustardorcream,toserve

PREHEATTHEOVENTO200°C(400°F),GasMark6andgreaseabakingtray.Stirtheflour,saltandsuettogetherinalargebowl.Graduallymixinenoughmilktoformasoftdough.Turnoutthedoughontoaflouredsurfaceandkneadlightlybeforerollingouttoa30cm(12in)square.

PEELANDCORETHEAPPLESandcutthefleshintosmallpieces.Mixtheapplewiththesugar,sultanasandspicesandarrangeonthesuetpastryto2.5cm(1in)fromtheedges.Dampentheedgesofthepastrywithalittlewater,rolluptightlylikeaSwissrollandsealtheends.

PUTTHEPUDDINGontothegreasedbakingtraywiththeseamfacingdownwards.Brushthesurfacewiththeremainingtablespoonofmilkandbakeintheovenfor40minutes.Servehotwithcustardorcream.

CabinetpuddingCOOKINGTIME1½HOURS

SERVES6

40g(1½oz)choppedmixedcandiedpeel25g(1oz)sultanas100g(3½oz)currants275g(10oz)ready-madespongecake50g(2oz)unsaltedbutter,plusextraforgreasing

3eggsApprox.450ml(16floz)milk25g(1oz)castersugarGratedzestof1unwaxedlemonPinchofgroundnutmegCustard,toserveTHOROUGHLYGREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasin.Sprinklethebasewiththecandiedpeel,sultanasandafewofthecurrants.Trytogetsomeofthefruittosticktothesidesofthebasin.Cutthespongecakeintothinslicesandarrangeinlayersinthebasin,withcurrantsandalittlebutterbetweeneachlayer.

BREAKTHEEGGSintoameasuringjugandmakeupto600ml(1pint)withmilk.Addthesugar,lemonzestandnutmegandbeattogetheruntilwellmixed.Pourthisliquidintothepuddingbasinveryslowly,sothatitsoaksintothespongecake.Leavetostandfor2hoursforthespongetosoakandsoften.

COVERTHEBASINwithalidordoublelayerofgreaseproofpaperandsteamthepuddingfor1½hours,keepingthewatertoppedupasnecessary.Removefromthepanandleavetostandfor3minutes,thenturnoutontoawarmedservingplate.Servewarmwithcustard.

Atraditionalsteamedpudwithlayersofspongeandlotsofdriedfruit,thisisalsosometimescalledchancellor’spudding,orifservedcolditisknownas

diplomat’spudding.

SussexpondpuddingCOOKINGTIME3½HOURS

SERVES8

120g(4oz)unsaltedbutter,plusextraforgreasing120g(4oz)demerarasugar1largelemon(preferablywithathinskin)Custard,toserve

120g(4oz)vegetablesuetApprox.150ml(5floz)mixedmilkandwaterGREASEA1.5–1.7-LITRE(2½–3-pint)puddingbasin.Tomakethepastry,sifttheflourandsaltintoamixingbowl,thenaddthesuetandmixwell.Addenoughofthemilkmixturetoformasoftdoughthatcanberolledout.Itisveryimportantthatthedoughisnottoowet.

ONAFLOUREDSURFACE,rollthedoughintoalargecircle,ensuringit’snotrolledtoothinly.Cutoutaquarterofthecircleandsetasidetouselaterformakingalid.Placetheremainingdoughinthegreasedbasinandjoinupthetwocutedges,wettingthemtoseal,sothatthebasiniscompletelylined.

CUTTHEBUTTERINTOSMALLPIECESandputhalfinthebasinwithhalfthesugar.Prickthelemonallover,usingathickskewer.Placeontopofthebutterandsugarinthebasin.Coverwiththerestofthebutterandsugar.

RE-ROLLTHEREMAININGPASTRYtomakealid.Wettheedges,fitoverthefillingandpresstheedgesdowntosealthemfirmly.Coversecurelywithalidorfoilandsteamfor3½hours(orlongerforareallytenderlemon),addingmorewaterifneeded.Turnoutandservewithcustard.

KentishwellpuddingCOOKINGTIME3½HOURS

SERVES8

1tbspgoldensyrupGratedzestandjuiceof1unwaxedlemon120g(4oz)unsaltedbutter,plusextraforgreasing120g(4oz)softlightbrownsugar120g(4oz)currantsCustard,toserve

120g(4oz)vegetablesuetApprox.150ml(5floz)mixedmilkandwaterGREASEA1.5–1.7-LITRE(2½–3-pint)puddingbasin.Tomakethepastry,sifttheflourandsaltintoamixingbowl,thenaddthesuetandmixwell.Addenoughofthemilkmixturetomakeasoftdoughthatcanberolledout.Itisveryimportantthatthedoughisnottoowet.

ONAFLOUREDSURFACE,rollthedoughintoalargecircle,ensuringit’snotrolledtoothinly.Cutoutaquarterofthecircleandsetasidetouselaterformakingalid.

PLACETHEGOLDENSYRUPinthebottomofthegreasedbasin,alongwithhalfthelemonzest.Wetthecutedgesofthelargepieceofdoughandplaceitinthegreasedbasin,joiningupthetwocutedgessothatthebasiniscompletelylined.Cutthebutterintosmallpieces,mixwiththesugarandcurrantsandplaceinthelinedbasin.

ONTHEFLOUREDSURFACE,rollouttheremainingpastrytomakealid.Wettheedges,placeoverthefillingandpresstheedgestogethertosealthemfirmly.Coversecurelywithalidorfoilandsteamfor3½hours.Turnoutandservewithcustard.

Thelesser-knowncousinoftheSussexpondpudding(seehere),it’snosurprise

thatKentdevelopedasimilarpud,sincethetwocountiesshareaborder.WheretheSussexvarietyconcealsawholelemon,thisrecipehasabutterycentrefilled

withcurrants.

BakewellpuddingCOOKINGTIME25–30MINUTES

SERVES4–6

2heapedtbspapricotjam3eggs,beaten90g(3oz)castersugar120g(4oz)unsaltedbutter,melted,plusextraforgreasing90g(3oz)groundalmondsCustardorcream,toserveForthepastry

180g(6½oz)self-raisingflour,plusextrafordusting45g(1½oz)unsaltedbutter45g(1½oz)lard

Icedwater,tomixPREHEATTHEOVENTO200°C(400°F),GasMark6.Makethepastrybyrubbingtheflour,butterandlardtogetherwithyourfingertipsuntilthemixtureresemblesbreadcrumbs.Addice-coldwateratablespoonfulatatime,untilthecrumbscometogethertoformadough.Wrapinclingfilmandchillfor30minutes,thenrolloutonaflouredboardto5mm(¼in)thick.

GREASEA20cm(8in)piedishandlinewiththepastry(seehere).Warmthejamgentlyinasaucepanorthemicrowaveandspreadthisevenlyovertheuncookedpastrybase.Beattheeggsandsugartogetheruntilpaleandcreamy,thenstirinthemeltedbutterandgroundalmondsandpourthemixtureoverthejam.Bakefor25–30minutesoruntilthefillingisset.Servewithcustardorcream.

BakewellpuddingistheoriginalconfectionforwhichtheDerbyshiretownbecamefamous(notBakewelltart!).Ifyouwalkalongthehighstreettoday,

you’llseesignsinnumeroustearoomandbakerywindows,allofwhichclaimtobetheestablishmentresponsibleforthepudding’sinvention.Nobodyknows

whichistellingthetruth…

NottinghambatterpuddingCOOKINGTIME45–50MINUTES

SERVES4

200g(7oz)plainflourPinchofsalt

2eggs110ml(4floz)milk50g(2oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing50g(2oz)softlightbrownsugarPinchofgroundnutmegPinchofgroundcinnamon

4evenly-sizedBramleyapplesCustardorcream,toserve

SIFTTHEFLOURANDSALTintoamixingbowl.Measure110ml(4floz)waterinajug,thenaddtheeggsandmilkandstirwelltomix.Pourthisintotheflourandwhiskverywelluntilcreamyandbubbly.Chillthebatterinthefridgeforaminimumof30minutes.

PREHEATTHEOVENTO200°C(400°F),GasMark6andgreaseanovenproofbakingdish,about5cm(2in)deep.Inamixingbowl,creamtogetherthebutterandsugaruntilpaleandfluffy,thenbeatinapincheachofnutmegandcinnamon.

CORETHEAPPLESandfillthemequallywiththecreamedmixture.Takethechilledbatterfromthefridgeandbeatwell.Placetheapplesuprightinthegreaseddishandpourthebatteroverthetop.Bakeintheovenfor45–50minutes.Servewithcustardorcream.

NottinghamshireisfamousforitsBramleySeedlingapples,whichhavebeen

growingthereforovertwocenturies.SoitfollowsthattheBramleyappleisthecentralingredientinthisrecipeforNottingham’sbest-knownpudding.

BlackberryExeterpuddingCOOKINGTIME2½–3HOURS

SERVES4–6

Butter,forgreasing90g(3oz)breadcrumbs60g(2oz)castersugar30g(1oz)vegetablesuet120g(4oz)blackberries120g(4oz)peeled,choppedcookingappleCustard,toserve

120g(4oz)vegetablesuetGREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasin.Tomakethesuetpastry,sifttheflourandsaltintoamixingbowl,addthesuetandmixwithenoughcoldwatertoformafairlystiffdough,thendividethepastryintotwothirdsandonethird.Rolloutthelargerpieceonaflouredsurfaceandusetolinethegreasedbasin.Reservethesmallerpieceforthelid.

TOMAKETHEFILLING,combinethebreadcrumbs,sugarandsuet.Placehalftheblackberriesandchoppedappleintothebaseofthelinedbasin.Coverwithhalfthebreadcrumbmixtureandtopwiththeremainingblackberriesandapple.Coverwiththerestofthecrumbs.

ROLLOUTTHESMALLERPIECEOFPASTRYandplaceontopofthepudding,wettingtheedgestomakeitstick.Coversecurelywithalidorfoilandsteamfor2½–3hours.Turnoutandservewithcustard.

Afewyearsago,RickSteinfeaturedThePuddingClubasoneofhis‘foodheroes’onhisTVseriesofthesamename.Thiswasthelong-forgottenpudding

thatwechosetoshowcasetothenationontheprogramme.

ManchesterpuddingsCOOKINGTIME40MINUTES

MAKES6

600ml(1pint)milkGratedzestof1unwaxedlemon50g(2oz)unsaltedbutter275g(10oz)castersugar100g(3½oz)whitebreadcrumbs4eggs,separated,plus2yolks

4tspgood-qualityraspberryjamPREHEATTHEOVENTO180°C(350°F),GasMark4andplacesixovenproof8cm(3in)ramekinsintoadeepbakingtray.Pourthemilkintoasaucepan,addthelemonzestandplaceoveramediumheat.Bringtotheboil,toinfuse,thenremovefromtheheatandleavetocoolfor10–15minutes.

WHENCOOL,ADDTHEBUTTERAND50g(2oz)ofthesugartothelemon-infusedmilk,andheatgentlyfor4minutes.Removefromtheheat,addthebreadcrumbsandmixwell.Stirinthesixeggyolks.

DIVIDETHEMIXTUREbetweentheramekins,thenpourwaterintothebakingtraysothatitcomesabouthalfwayupthesideoftheramekins.Placeintheoven,takingcarenottospillthewater,andbakefor30minutes.Removefromtheovenandsetasidetocoolslightly.Increasetheoventemperatureto220°C(425°F),GasMark7.

TOMAKETHEMERINGUE,whisktheeggwhitesinascrupulouslycleanbowluntiltheyformsoftpeaks,thenaddtheremaining225g(8oz)ofcastersugarandwhisktoformstiffpeaks.

PLACEATEASPOONOFRASPBERRYJAMontoeachpudding,thenspoonagenerousamountofmeringueontothetopofeach.Returnthepuddingstothehotovenandbakeforapproximately10minutesuntilslightlybrowned.Servewhilestillhot.

LightcloutiedumplingCOOKINGTIME3HOURS

SERVES8

360g(12½oz)self-raisingflour½tspsalt180g(6½oz)unsaltedbutter,plusextraforgreasing120g(4oz)softlightbrownsugar1tspgroundcinnamon

1tspgroundgingerFinelygratedzestof1orange480g(1lb1oz)sultanas240g(8½oz)currants1tbspgoldensyrup

1tbspblacktreacle2eggs,beatenMilk,tomixCustardtoserve

GREASEA1.7-LITRE(3-pint)puddingbasin.Sifttheflourandsalttogetherintoamixingbowl,thenrubinthebutterwithyourfingertipsuntilthemixtureresemblescrumbs.Stirinthesugar,spices,orangezestanddriedfruits.

MAKEAWELLINTHECENTREOFTHEMIXTUREandpourinthesyrup,treacleandeggs,thenmixwithenoughmilktomakeastiffbutmoistmixture.Spoonintothegreasedbasin,coversecurelywithalidorfoilandsteamfor3hours.Turnoutandservewithcustard.

ThisScottishsuetpuddingisnamedafterthecloth(‘cloutie’)inwhichitwasoriginallycooked.Traditionally,anyleftoverswerekeptandre-heatedbyfrying

theminalittlebutter.

ScottishflummeryCOOKINGTIME5MINUTES

SERVES4–6

1tbspoatmeal(ideallypinhead)300ml(11floz)doublecream

3tbspclearhoney4tbspliqueurwhisky(Drambuie)Juiceof½lemon

HEATTHEOATMEALGENTLYinaheavy-basedsaucepanuntilitjustturnsbrown,thenremovefromtheheatandsetaside.Inalargebowl,beatthecreamuntilsmoothbutnotstiff.

MELTTHEHONEYGENTLYinasaucepanuntilitrunseasily,beingcarefulnottoletitboil.Foldthemeltedhoneyintothebeatencream,thenstirintheliqueurandlemonjuice.Spoonintoindividualglassesorbowlsandservewhilestillwarm,withthebrownedoatmealsprinkledontop.

LegendhasitthatFloraMacdonaldmadethispuddingforBonniePrinceCharliewhenshehelpedhimfleeScotlandandescapetotheIsleofSkye.

PUDDINGSWITHATWIST

CHAPTER5

Britishcuisinehasalwayswelcomednewideasandexoticflavoursandourpuddingsarenoexception.Inthischapter,someofthemostclassicBritishpudsarecustomisedusingdifferentingredientsandfreshcombinations,toofferdelicioustwistsonfamiliarrecipes.TheEtonmessisreinventedwithblackberries,carrotsmakeawonderfullymoistpuddingthatwillrivalanycake,andtherolypolyisupdatedto

includelemoncurd.Impressyourfriendswithanunusualblackcurrantandmintpie,ortryourflavourfulrosemarysyllabub(itmayseemmodern,butisinfactcenturiesold!).Whynothavefuninventingyourowntwistsonotherclassicrecipesthroughoutthis

PuddingsWithaTwist

RosemarysyllabubQuinceamberLordRandall’spuddingTutti-fruttipuddingPruneandmuscatpuddingsButterscotchtartLimemeringuepieLemoncurdrolypolyLemonsurprisepuddingMillenniumpuddingOrientalgingerpuddingPearandgingercharlotteCoconutricepuddingCarrotpuddingBlackcurrantandmintpieBlackberryEtonmessRhubarbandorangebrownBettyRhubarbrouladeGooseberryandelderflowerfoolGreengageflapjack

RosemarysyllabubINFUSINGTIMEONLY

SERVES6–8

1large,freshrosemarysprig,plusextratogarnish4tbspdrywhitewine

4tbspbrandyGratedzestandjuiceof2unwaxedlemons,plusextratogarnish120g(4oz)castersugar500ml(18floz)doublecreamREMOVECLUMPSOFROSEMARYLEAVESfromthewoodystemandbruisethemwell.Puttheleavesinabowlandcoverwiththewineandbrandy.Addthelemonjuice,zestandsugar.Leavetosteepovernightorforaminimumofafewhourstoallowthefullflavouroftherosemarytoinfuse.

STRAINTHEINFUSEDWINEMIXTUREintoalargebowlandstirthecreamintotheinfusion.Whipuntilthickbutnotstiffandpourintoservingglasses.Servechilled,garnishedwithlemonzestandrosemary.Eatwithin24hoursorthesyllabubmayseparate.

VariationAsanalternativetorosemary,youcantrylemongeraniumleaves,rosepetals,elderflowers,lavenderorsweetcicely.Simplyinfusethewineandlemonjuicewithyourchosenflavourinthesamewayasdescribed.

ThesyllabubcanbetracedbacktomedievaltimesandforcenturiesremainedoneofthemostpopularandcommondessertsinBritain,untiltheendoftheVictorianerasawthearrivaloficecream.Whilstrosemarymightseeman

unusualingredienthere,itisactuallyveryauthentic.

QuinceamberCOOKINGTIME1HOUR

SERVES4–6

450g(1lb)peeled,coredquinces50g(2oz)unsaltedbutter,plusextraforgreasing200g(7oz)castersugar225g(8oz)freshwhitebread

3eggs,separatedPREHEATTHEOVENTO180°C(350°F),GasMark4andthoroughlygreasea20cm(8in)piedish.Quarterthequincesandcuteachpieceinhalfagain.Placeinasaucepanwiththebutterand50g(2oz)ofthesugar.Cookoveragentleheatuntilthefruitmixtureissoftandthick.

PROCESSTHEBREADintofinebreadcrumbsandstirintothefruitmixture,thenbeatintheeggyolks.Pourthemixtureintothegreaseddishandbakeintheovenfor30minutes.

MEANWHILE,INASCRUPULOUSLYcleanbowl,whisktheeggwhitestostiffpeaks.Addhalftheremainingsugarandwhiskuntilthemixtureisthickandshiny.Foldintheremainingsugarwithametalspoonandpilethemeringueontothecookedfruitbase.Returntotheovenandbakeforanother10minutes.Serveimmediately.

Thequinceisalargefruitrelatedtoapplesandpears,whichhasbeenenjoyingrenewedpopularityinrecentyears.Yellowwhenrawandpinkwhencooked,itsseasonisshort(lookforthembetweenOctoberandDecember)andtheyare

morelikelytobefoundatfarmers’marketsthaninyourlocalsupermarket.Thenameofthispuddingcomesfromthebeautifulgoldencolourofthetoasted

meringue.

LordRandall’spuddingCOOKINGTIME1½–2HOURS

SERVES4–6

225g(8oz)driedapricots,chopped225g(8oz)thick-cutSevilleorangemarmalade225g(8oz)plainflour

1tspbicarbonateofsoda225g(8oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing120g(4oz)softdarkbrownsugar1largeegg,beaten

90ml(3floz)milkCustard,toserve

LIGHTLYGREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasinandcoverthebottomwithalittleofthechoppedapricotsandmarmalade.Sifttogethertheflourandbicarbonateofsodaintoalargebowl.

INAMIXINGBOWL,creamtogetherthebutterandsugaruntilpaleandfluffy.Oneatatime,addthebeatenegg,milk,siftedflourandsoda,andremainingapricotstothecreamedmixture,stirringwellaftereachaddition.Beatvigorouslyandfinallymixintherestofthemarmalade.

POURTHEMIXTUREintothegreasedbasinandcoversecurelywithalidorfoil.Steamfor1½–2hours.Turnoutandservewithcustard.

Thisrecipecametous20yearsagoasacompetitionentry,althoughthewinnercouldn’texplainthename,asitwaspasseddownfromherlategrandmother.It’sprobablyinspiredbyaVictorianballad(madepopularbySteeleyeSpaninthe1980s),inwhichLordRandalllamentstohismotherthathe’sbeenpoisonedby‘eelsfriedinapan’(soourpuddingwasn’ttoblame!).Thisisthenameof

oneofourthemedPuddingRooms,whereyoucansleepsoundlyintheknowledgethatLordRandalliswatchingoveryou.

Tutti-fruttipuddingCOOKINGTIME2HOURS

SERVES4–6

2½tbspgoldensyrup120g(4oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing120g(4oz)castersugarFinelygratedzestandjuiceof1orange

2eggs90g(3oz)self-raisingflour,sifted60g(2oz)breadcrumbs60g(2oz)stonedprunes,finelychopped60g(2oz)driedapricots,finelychopped60g(2oz)redglacécherries,finelychopped30g(1oz)greenglacécherriesorangelica,finelychoppedCustard,toserveGREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasinandcoverthebottomwiththegoldensyrup.Inamixingbowl,creamtogetherthebutterandsugaruntilpaleandfluffy,thenstirinthegratedorangezest.Beattheeggsandgraduallyaddthemtothemixture.

MIXTHESIFTEDFLOURwiththebreadcrumbsandfoldlightlyintothepuddingmixture.Foldintheprunes,apricots,cherriesandangelica,alongwiththeorangejuice.Stirwellsothattheingredientsarefullyincorporated.Pourintothegreasedbasin,coversecurelywithalidorfoilandsteamfor2hours.Turnoutandservewithcustard.

PruneandmuscatpuddingsCOOKINGTIME1HOUR5MINUTES

MAKES6

Meltedbutter,forgreasing24pittedprunes(about250g/9oz)375ml(13floz)muscatorport100g(3½oz)castersugar175g(6oz)unsaltedbutter,atroomtemperature100g(3½oz)darkbrownmuscovadosugar2eggs

2tbspmilk85g(3oz)groundalmonds40g(1½oz)plainflour40g(1½oz)self-raisingflour½tspmixedspiceVanillaicecream,toserve

PREHEATTHEOVENTO180°C(350°F),GasMark4.Brushsixramekinsorindividual200ml(7floz)puddingbasinswithmeltedbutterandlinethebaseofeachwithacircleofnon-stickbakingparchment.

PLACETHEPRUNES,MUSCATAND250ml(9floz)waterintoalargesaucepanoveramediumheatandbringtoasimmer.Cookfor10minutesoruntiltheprunesaresoft.Liftoutthepruneswithaslottedspoonandplaceinamedium-sizedheatproofbowl.

ADDTHECASTERSUGARtothesaucepanofpruneliquidandcook,stirring,for3minutesoruntilthesugardissolves.Bringtoasimmerandcookfor10minutesoruntilthesyrupthickens–youneedabout190ml(6½floz)syrup.Pourthesyrupovertheprunesinthebowl.

INALARGEMIXINGBOWL,beatthebutterandbrownsugarwithanelectrichandmixeruntilpaleandcreamy.Addtheeggsoneatatime,beatingwellaftereachaddition.Stirinthemilkandfoldinthegroundalmonds,bothtypesofflourandthemixedspiceuntilwellmixed.

PLACEFOURPRUNESinthebottomofeachramekinorbasin,inasinglelayer.Add2teaspoonsofsyruptoeachramekintocovertheprunes.Reserveanyremainingsyrup.Spoonthespongemixtureintotheramekinsandsmooththesurfacewiththebackofthespoon.Covereachramekinwithlightlygreasedfoilandplace

theminaroastingtin.Pourenoughboilingwaterintothetintoreachhalfwayupthesidesoftheramekins.

BAKEFOR40MINUTESoruntilaninsertedskewercomesoutclean.Removetheramekinscarefullyfromtheroastingtinandsetasidefor5minutestocoolslightlybeforeturningthepuddingsoutontoservingplates.Servewithvanillaicecreamanddrizzlethepuddingswithanyremainingsyrup.

ButterscotchtartCOOKINGTIME30–40MINUTES

SERVES8

375g(13oz)shortcrustpastry(seehere),chilled320g(11½oz)unsaltedbutter320g(11½oz)demerarasugar180ml(6½floz)milk

80g(3oz)plainflour,plusextrafordustingColdwhippedcream,toserveROLLOUTTHECHILLEDPASTRYonaflouredsurface,to5mm(¼in)thickness,anduseittolinea30cm(12in)tartdish(seehere).Refrigeratefor30minutes,thenpreheattheovento190°C(400°F),GasMark5andblindbakethepastrycasefor25minutes(seehere).Removefromtheovenandsetaside.

MELTTHEBUTTERINASAUCEPANoveralowheatandmixinthedemerarasugaruntildissolved.Mixalittlemilkwiththeflourtoformapaste;addthisslowlytothebutterandsugarinthepan,alongwiththeremainingmilk.Graduallyheatthemixture,whiskingcontinuouslyuntilthebutterscotchcoatsthebackofaspoon.

POURTHEBUTTERSCOTCHintothecookedpastrycaseandallowtocoolbeforerefrigerating.Servecoldwithcoldwhippedcream.

LimemeringuepieCOOKINGTIME35–45MINUTES

SERVES6–8

375g(13oz)shortcrustpastry(seehere),chilledFlour,fordusting110g(4oz)unsaltedbutterGratedzestof4limesandjuiceof88eggs,separated

4tspcornflour400g(14oz)castersugar

ROLLOUTTHECHILLEDPASTRYonaflouredsurface,to5mm(¼in)thicknessanduseittolinea30cm(12in)tartdish(seehere).Refrigeratefor30minutes,thenpreheattheovento200°C(400°F),GasMark6andblindbakethepastrycasefor20minutes(seehere).Removefromtheovenandsetaside.

TOPREPARETHEFILLING,meltthebutterinasaucepanoveralowheat,addthelimezestandjuiceandgentlyheatthrough.Whisktheeggyolksinabowluntilpaleandcreamy.Slowlyaddthemeltedbutterandlimemixturetotheyolks,whiskingcontinuouslyuntilwellcombined.Pourthemixturebackintothesaucepan.

MIXTHECORNFLOURwithalittlewatertoformapaste,addthistothelimeandyolkmixtureandcontinuetocookoveralowheat,stirringcontinuouslyuntilthemixturethickens.Setasideuntilneeded.

WHISKTHEEGGWHITESinascrupulouslycleanbowluntiltheyformsoftpeaks,thengraduallyaddthecastersugar,whiskinguntilstiffpeaksform.Spoonthelimemixtureintothecookedpastrycaseandtopwiththemeringue.Tobrownthemeringue,youcaneitherplaceintheoven,preheatedto200°C(400°F),GasMark6,for10minutesoruseakitchenblowtorch.

LemoncurdrolypolyCOOKINGTIME1–1½HOURS

SERVES4–6

180g(6½oz)self-raisingflour,plusextrafordustingPinchofsalt90g(3oz)vegetablesuetFinelygratedzestof1unwaxedlemonMilk,tomix450g(1lb)lemoncurd

PREHEATTHEOVENTO190°C(375°F),GasMark5.Sifttheflourandsalttogetherintoamixingbowl,thenaddthesuet,lemonzestandenoughmilktomakeadough.Rolloutthedoughonaflouredsurfacetoabout25cm(10in)squareandspreadwiththelemoncurd.DampentheedgesofthedoughwithwaterandrolluplikeaSwissroll.

PLACETHEROLYPOLYINAROASTINGTINandputintheoven,raisingonesideofthetinsothatthepuddingrollstooneend.Thiswillpreventitfromunravelling.Bakeintheovenfor1hour.(Alternatively,wrapinfoiltoholditsshapeandinclingfilmtomakeitwatertight.Steamfor1½hours,thencarefullyremovetheclingfilmandfoil.)Sprinklewiththesugarandservewithcustard.

Makesureyoubuythebestavailablelemoncurd,orbetterstill,makeyourown!

LemonsurprisepuddingCOOKINGTIME45MINUTES

SERVES4

Gratedzestandjuiceof2unwaxedlemons75g(3oz)unsaltedbutter150g(5oz)castersugar

3eggs,separated75g(3oz)self-raisingflour450ml(16floz)milk

PREHEATTHEOVENTO200°C(400°F),GasMark6andthoroughlygreaseadeep,ovenproofbakingdish.Inamixingbowl,beatthelemonzest,butterandsugaruntilpaleandcreamy.Addtheeggyolksandflourandmixwell.Graduallystirinthemilk,alongwith2–3tablespoonsoflemonjuice.

INASCRUPULOUSLYCLEANBOWL,whisktheeggwhitesuntilstiff,thenfoldthemintothepuddingmixturewithametalspoon.Pourthemixtureintothegreaseddish.Standthedishinaroastingtinandpourwaterintothetintoreachhalfwayuptheoutsideofthedish.

BAKEINTHEOVENFORABOUT45minutesuntilthetopissetandspongytothetouch.Thepuddingwillhaveseparatedintoacustardlayerunderneathwithaspongetopping.Serveimmediately.

MillenniumpuddingCOOKINGTIME30MINUTES

SERVES4–6

Butter,forgreasing240g(8½oz)self-raisingflour,plusextrafordustingPinchofsalt

120g(4oz)vegetablesuet480g(1lb1oz)freshpeaches,stonedandchopped

1tbspsoftlightbrownsugarCustard,toserve

Forthelemonsyrup1lemon

1tbspgoldensyrup15g(½oz)unsaltedbutter120g(4oz)softlightbrownsugar

FIRSTMAKETHELEMONSYRUP.Peelthelemonasthinlyaspossibleandsqueezeoutthejuice.Puttherind,juiceandremainingsyrupingredientsintoasaucepan,add200ml(7floz)waterandheatgentlyuntilthesugarhasdissolved.Leavetostanduntilneeded.

PREHEATTHEOVENTO190°C(375°F),GasMark5andgreasea1.1-litre(2-pint)ovenproofbakingdish.Sifttheflourandsalttogetherintoamixingbowl,thenaddthesuetandmixwithenoughwatertocreateafirmdough.

ROLLOUTTHEDOUGHonaflouredsurfacetoabout25cm(10in)squareand5mm(¼in)thick.Spreadthechoppedpeachesandbrownsugarevenlyoverthesquareandrollup,asyouwouldaSwissroll.Cutinto2.5cm(1in)slicesandarrangeflatinthegreaseddishwiththefruitfacingupwards.

REMOVETHELEMONRINDfromthesyrupandpourthesyrupovertheslicesinthedish.Bakeintheovenfor30minutesoruntilpuffedupandgoldenbrown.Servewithcustard.

ThisrecipewasaPuddingClubinvention,tomarkthebeginningoftheyear2000.Wewantedtocreateabrand-newtwistonthegreatBritishpuddingthat

wouldseeusintothe21stcentury.

OrientalgingerpuddingCOOKINGTIME1½HOURS

SERVES4–6

Butter,forgreasing180g(6½oz)self-raisingflourPinchofsalt

2tspgroundginger90g(3oz)vegetablesuet45g(1½oz)softdarkbrownsugar45g(1½oz)stemginger,chopped3tbspgoldensyrup,warmed,plusextratoserve1egg,beaten

Custard,toserveLIGHTLYGREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasin.Sifttogethertheflour,saltandgroundgingerintoamixingbowl.Addthesuet,sugarandchoppedstemgingerandmixtocombine,thenaddthewarmedsyrupandbeateneggandmixwell.

POURTHEMIXTUREINTOTHEGREASEDBASIN,coversecurelywithalidorfoilandsteamfor1½hours.Turnoutontoawarmeddishandservewithextrasyrupandcustard.

AnotherofourPuddingRooms,whereyoucansleepunderthewatchfulgazeofafearsomegingerdragon.AlthoughcommonplaceinmanytraditionalBritishrecipes,gingerisfarfromnativetoourshores.ItappearedinBritaininthe1640s,importedfromAsia,butwasquicklyadoptedintoourowncuisine.

PearandgingercharlotteCOOKINGTIME45MINUTES

SERVES6

450g(1lb)Conferencepears,peeled,coredandchopped110g(4oz)unsaltedbutter

1tbspcastersugar6medium-thicknessslicesofbread,crustsremoved20g(¾oz)stemginger,chopped

1eggyolkCreamoricecream,toserve

PLACETHECHOPPEDPEARSinasaucepanwith25g(1oz)ofthebutterandthetablespoonofsugar.Cookoveralowheatuntilsoftandbrokendown.Removefromtheheatandpuréethepearsinthepanwithahandblender.Leavetocool.

PREHEATTHEOVENTO180°C(350°F),GasMark4.Melttheremaining85g(3oz)ofbutterinasmallsaucepan,thenbrushitoveronesideofeachbreadslice,makingsurethebreadiswellcovered.Cutintorectanglesandusemostofthemtolinea20–25cm(8–10in)puddingbasinorroundcaketin,12cm(4½in)indepth,placingthepiecesbuttered-sidedownandslightlyoverlapping(reservealittlebreadforthetop).Pressthemonfirmly.

WHENTHEPEARPURÉEISCOOL,addthechoppedstemgingerandwhiskintheeggyolk,thenpourthemixtureintothebread-linedbasin.Coverwiththeremainingslicedbread,butter-sideup,andpressdownfirmly.Bakeintheovenfor45minutes,untilgoldenbrown.Removefromtheovenandcarefullyturnoutontoawarmplate.Servewithcreamoricecream.

CoconutricepuddingCOOKINGTIME1–1½HOURS

SERVES4

60g(2oz)puddingrice25g(1oz)goldencastersugar300ml(11floz)skimmedmilk300ml(11floz)coconutmilkFreshraspberries,toserve(optional)PREHEATTHEOVENTO150°C(300°F),GasMark2.Puttherice,sugar,milkandcoconutmilkintoanon-sticksaucepanandgentlybringtotheboil,stirringoccasionallysothatthemixturedoesn’tsticktothepan.

POURINTOANOVENPROOFBAKINGDISHwithalidandbakeinthecentreoftheovenfor1–1½hours,untilcreamy.Servewithfreshraspberries(wheninseason).

WHYNOTTRY…?Thisisparticularlydeliciouswhenservedwithapuréeoffreshmango.

BlackcurrantandmintpieCOOKINGTIME35–40MINUTES

SERVES6

450g(1lb)blackcurrants,toppedandtailed2½tspfinelychoppedmint110g(4oz)castersugar,plusextraforsprinkling225g(8oz)shortcrustpastry(seehere)Plainflour,fordusting

Cream,toservePREHEATTHEOVENTO200°C(400°F),GasMark6.Washtheblackcurrantsinacolanderandrinseseveraltimesunderrunningwater.Drainthoroughlyandputtheminashallow18–20cm(7–8in)piedishortin.Mixthechoppedmintwiththesugaranddistributeevenlyovertheblackcurrants.

ROLLOUTTHESHORTCRUSTPASTRYonaflouredsurfacetoathicknessof5mm(¼in).Coverthefillingwiththepastry,pressingitontotheedgesofthepiedishanddecoratingthetopwithpastryleavesorflowersmadefromthetrimmings.Withasharpknife,cutaslitinthecentreofthepastrytoptoallowsteamtoescapeduringcooking.

BRUSHTHEPASTRYWITHWATERandsprinklewithalittleextracastersugar.Bakethepieonthemiddleshelfoftheovenfor35–40minutesoruntilgolden.Servethepiecoldwithfreshcream.

BlackberryEtonmessCOOKINGTIME1HOUR

SERVES6

3largeeggwhites175g(6oz)goldencastersugar575ml(1pint)doubleorwhippingcream450g(1lb)freshblackberries(orfrozen)

1tbspicingsugarPREHEATTHEOVENtoaverylowsetting:approx.130–140°C(250–275°F),GasMark½–1.Lineaflatbakingsheetwithnon-stickbakingparchment.Tomakethemeringue,placetheeggwhitesinascrupulouslycleanbowlandwhiskuntiltheyformsoftpeaks.Addthecastersugargradually,aspoonfulatatime,whiskingwellbetweeneachadditionuntilthesugaristhoroughlyincorporated.

SPOONTHEMERINGUEontotheparchmentandspreadoutuntilabout2cm(¾in)thick.Placethebakingsheetintheovenforapproximately1hour,thenturnofftheheatandleavethemeringueinsidetheoventodryout,untilcold.Themeringuecanthenbeusedimmediatelyorstoredinanairtightcontaineruntilneeded.

BREAKUPTHEMERINGUEINTO2cm(¾in)pieces.Inalargebowl,whipthecreamuntilsloppy.Inanotherbowl,mixtheblackberrieswiththeicingsugar.Combineallthreeingredients–themeringuepieces,creamandblackberries–andspoonintoglassbowls.Servechilled.

Ifyoupreferalesssweetversionofthis,youcanuseextra-thicknaturalyoghurtinsteadofwhippedcream.

RhubarbandorangebrownBettyCOOKINGTIME30–40MINUTES

SERVES6

600g(1lb5oz)choppedrhubarb20g(¾oz)castersugarGratedzestandjuiceof2oranges25g(1oz)demerarasugar200g(7oz)crushedsweetbiscuits(digestivesorsimilar)50g(2oz)breadcrumbs

50g(2oz)flakedorchoppednuts50g(2oz)unsaltedbutterCreamoricecream,toservePREHEATTHEOVENTO175°C(340°F),GasMark3–4.Mixtogetherthechoppedrhubarb,castersugar,orangejuiceandhalfthezest,andplaceinashallow,20cm(8in)square,ovenproofbakingdish.Combinethedemerarasugarwiththecrushedbiscuits,breadcrumbsandnutsandspreadthisovertherhubarbmix.

PLACESMALLPIECESOFBUTTERacrossthetopofthecrumbmix.Bakeintheovenfor30–40minutesuntiltherhubarbistenderandcookedthroughandthecrumbtoppingiscrispandbrown.Servewithcreamoricecream.

RhubarbrouladeCOOKINGTIME45–60MINUTES

SERVES6–8

4eggwhites325g(11½oz)castersugar

1tspvanillaessence1tspwhitewineormaltvinegar

1tspcornflour500g(1lb2oz)trimmedrhubarb,choppedinto3–5cm(1–2in)pieces

3gelatineleaves375ml(13floz)doublecream,plusoptionalextratoserve

PREHEATTHEOVENTO160°C(325°F),GasMark3.Covera25cm(10in)squarebakingsheetwithnon-stickbakingparchment.Inascrupulouslycleanbowl,whisktheeggwhitesuntiltheyformsoftpeaks,thenslowlyadd200g(7oz)ofthesugarwhilestillwhisking.Addthevanillaessence,vinegarandcornflourandwhiskuntilthemixtureisstiff.

SPREADTHEMERINGUEMIXEVENLYacrossthelinedbakingsheetandbakefor25minutes.Removefromtheovenandallowtocoolbeforecarefullyremovingthesoftmeringuefromtheparchment.

WHILETHEMERINGUEISCOOKING,placethechoppedrhubarbinamediumsaucepanwiththeremaining125g(4½oz)ofthesugar.Cookoveramedium–highheatforabout15minutesuntiltherhubarbiscookedandhasbrokendown.Discardtheliquidandallowtherhubarbtocool.

SOAKTHEGELATINELEAVESincoldwateruntilsoft.Removethesoftenedleavesfromthewaterandplaceinasmallsaucepanwith125ml(4½floz)ofthecream.Heatgentlytodissolvethegelatine,thenremovefromtheheatandallowthistocoolforafewminutes.Whiptheremainingcreamtosoftpeaks.

MIXTHETWOCREAMSTOGETHERandcarefullyfoldintherhubarb.Refrigeratethemixtureuntilithasbeguntostiffen.SpreaditevenlyoverthemeringueandcarefullyrolluplikeaSwissroll.

TOSERVE,sliceandenjoyonitsownorwithcream.

GooseberryandelderflowerfoolCOOKINGTIME20–30MINUTES

SERVES4–6

450g(1lb)gooseberries,toppedandtailed60g(2oz)granulatedsugar

10elderflowerheads1thickstripofparedlemonrind300ml(11floz)crèmefraîche

PUTTHEGOOSEBERRIESANDSUGARinalargesaucepanwith4tablespoonsofwaterandbringtotheboil.Simmergentlyuntilthefruitstartstosoften.

SETASIDEAFEWELDERFLOWERStouseasagarnish,thentietheremainingelderflowerheadsinamuslinbagwiththepieceoflemonrind.Addthistothepanandcontinuetosimmergentlyforafurther15minutes.

REMOVETHEELDERFLOWERBAGfromthepan,squeezingallofitsjuicesintothemixture.Useaforktoroughlymashthegooseberrymixture.Setasidetocool.

DIVIDEABOUTONEQUARTERofthegooseberrypuréeamongservingglasses.Foldthecrèmefraîcheintotheremaininggooseberrypuréeandaddthistotheglasses.Garnisheachglasswiththereservedelderflowers.

GreengageflapjackCOOKINGTIME30MINUTES

SERVES4–6

500g(1lb2oz)greengages,stonedandhalved75g(3oz)castersugar90g(3oz)unsaltedbutter90g(3oz)softlightbrownsugar

1tbspgoldensyrup120g(4oz)porridgeoatsCustardorcream,toserve

PREHEATTHEOVENTO180°C(350°F),GasMark4.Placethegreengagehalvesinashallow,ovenproofbakingdishandsprinklewiththecastersugar.

PUTTHEBUTTER,BROWNSUGARandgoldensyrupinasaucepanandmeltoveragentleheat.Stirintheoats.Spreadthismixtureoverthegreengagesandbakeintheovenfor30minutesuntiltheflapjackisbrownandcrispontop.Servewithcustardorcream.

Ifyoucan’tfindgreengages,substitutewithanothertartfruit–damsonsworkwell,asdogooseberries.

CHOCOHOLICS&NUTCASES

CHAPTER6

Definitelythemostindulgentchapterinthisbook,thesepuddingsfitthebillwhensomethingabitspecialiscalledfor.Certaintreatsherewillgodownverywellwithkidsandadultsalike,suchasoursquidgychocolatepudding,oozingwithchocolatesauce;whilstthemore

sophisticatedhazelnutrouladeordarkchocolatepavéwillwowyourdinner-partyguests.Meanwhile,chocoholicswilldelightin

discoveringwaystointroducechocolateintootherBritishclassics,suchaschocolatebreadandbutterpuddingandawhitechocolateand

raspberrytrifle.

Chocoholics&Nutcases

ChestnutandchocolatepuddingVerychocolatepuddingSquidgychocolatepuddingsPruneandchocolatepuddingMarbledpuddingChocolatebreadandbutterpuddingHotmochapuddingWhitechocolateandraspberrytrifleChocolatemousseDarkchocolatepavéPecan,cinnamonandmaplesyruppuddingWalnutandapplespongepuddingWalnutandtoffeetartMaple,walnutandbananapuddingDateandwalnutpuddingHazelnutroulade

ChestnutandchocolatepuddingCOOKINGTIME2–2½HOURS

SERVES6

225g(8oz)unsaltedbutter,plusextraforgreasing100g(3½oz)darkchocolate,minimum50%cocoasolids,brokenup225g(8oz)self-raisingflour

5tbspcocoapowder4eggs,beaten225g(8oz)goldencastersugar180g(6½oz)cooked,peeledsweetchestnuts,chopped½tspvanillaessence

Chocolatesauce(seehere),toserveCreamorvanillaicecream,toserveLIGHTLYGREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasin.Putthebutteranddarkchocolateinasaucepanandmeltoveralowheat.Sifttheflourandcocoapowdertogetherintoabowl,thenaddtothemeltedchocolate.Stirinthebeateneggs,sugar,chestnutsandvanillaessenceandmixwell.

POURTHEPUDDINGMIXTUREintothegreasedbasin.Coverwithalidorfoilandsteamfor2–2½hours.Turnoutontoaplateandservewithextrachocolatesauce,andcreamorvanillaicecream.

It’simportanttousegood-qualityhigh-cocoacontentchocolatetogivethispuddingarich,deepflavour.

VerychocolatepuddingCOOKINGTIME1½HOURS

SERVES4–6

200g(7oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing200g(7oz)castersugar200g(7oz)self-raisingflour

5tbspcocoapowder3eggs,beaten60g(2oz)chocolatechipsCustardandchocolatesauce(seehere),toserveForthechocolatesauce170g(6oz)chocolate,50%cocoasolids,brokenup2–3tspcastersugar

125ml(4½floz)doublecreamGREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasin.Inamixingbowl,creamtogetherthebutterandsugaruntilpaleandfluffy.Sifttheflourandcocoatogetherintoaseparatebowl,thenaddtothecreamedmixturealittleatatime,alternatingwiththebeatenegg,andbeatingwellaftereachaddition.Finally,stirinhalfthechocolatechips.

COVERTHEBASEOFTHEGREASEDBASINwiththeremainingchocolatechips,thenpourthespongemixtureontop.Coverwithalidorfoilandsteamfor1½hours.

TOMAKETHESAUCEplacealltheingredientsinasaucepanoveralowheatuntilthechocolatehasmeltedandthesugarhasdissolved.Mixwelltogetherandremovefromtheheat.Turnthepuddingoutontoaplateandservewithcustardandthechocolatesauce.

Thischocolatesauceisveryrich,soalittlegoesalongway.Ifyoupreferitalittlesweeter,addthethirdteaspoonofsugar(youcanwaittotastethesaucebeforechoosingwhetherornottoaddthis,butmakesuretogiveitenoughextratimeovertheheatfortheadditionalsugartodissolve).Anyleftoverscanbefrozenforupto2monthsinasealedrigidcontainer.Defrostatroom

temperaturefor2–3hoursorovernightinthefridge.

SquidgychocolatepuddingsCOOKINGTIME45–60MINUTES

MAKES8

340g(12oz)unsaltedbutter,softened340g(12oz)softlightbrownsugar6eggs,beaten

280g(10oz)self-raisingflour70g(2½oz)cocoapowderExtrachocolatetopping(seehere)toserveCreamorvanillaicecream,toserveForthechocolatetopping170g(6oz)chocolate,70%cocoasolids

2tspcastersugar125ml(4½floz)doublecream

PLACEALLTHETOPPINGINGREDIENTSinasaucepanoveralowheatuntilthechocolatehasmeltedandthesugarhasdissolved.Mixwellandremovefromtheheat.

GREASEEIGHT200ml(7floz)puddingbasins.Inamixingbowl,creamthebutterandsugaruntilpaleandfluffy.Addthebeateneggstothemixture–ifthemixtureseparates,juststirinalittleoftheflour.Sifttheremainingflourandcocoapowdertogetherintoaseparatebowl,thenfoldthemintothecreamedmixture,stirringwelltoincorporate.Addalittlewaterifthemixtureseemsdry.

PLACEABOUT1HEAPEDTABLESPOONofthechocolatetoppingintoeach200ml(7floz)puddingbasin.Dividethespongemixevenlybetweenthebasinsandsealwithalidorfoil.Steamfor45–60minutes.Servewithextrachocolatetopping,andcreamorvanillaicecream.

Thismuch-lovedpuddingwastheinspirationforourChocolateSuite,themostluxuriousandpopularofourthemedPuddingRooms.Whereelsecanyousleep

inaboxofchocolates?

PruneandchocolatepuddingCOOKINGTIME50–60MINUTES

SERVES6

60g(2oz)unsaltedbutter,softened150g(5oz)castersugar

1egg,beaten150g(5oz)self-raisingflour75g(3oz)cocoapowder200g(7oz)chopped,pittedprunes120ml(4floz)milkVanillaicecreamorwhippedcream,toserveForthesauce

100g(3½oz)darkchocolate,50%cocoasolids50g(2oz)castersugar

PREHEATTHEOVENTO170°C(325°F),GasMark3.Inamixingbowl,creamtogetherthebutterandsugaruntilpaleandfluffy.Graduallymixintheegg,thenbeatuntilwellcombined.Sifttheflourandcocoatogetherandfoldintothemixture,thenaddthechoppedprunesandmilkandmixwell.

TOMAKETHESAUCE,heatthechocolate,sugarand240ml(8½floz)waterinasaucepanoveralowheatuntilthechocolatehasmelted.Pourthesauceintoadeep,1.1-litre(2-pint),ovenproofbakingdish,pourthespongemixtureontopandlevelout.Bakeintheovenfor50–60minutes.Servehotwithvanillaicecreamorwhippedcream.

MarbledpuddingCOOKINGTIME1½–2HOURS

SERVES4–6

150g(5oz)self-raisingflourPinchofsalt100g(3½oz)unsaltedbutterormargarine,softened,plusextraforgreasing100g(3½oz)castersugar2eggs,beatenMilk,tomix

Gratedzestof1unwaxedlemon

2tbspgood-qualitycocoapowderChocolatesauce(seehere)orcustard,toserve

GREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasin.Sifttheflourandsaltintoabowl.Inamixingbowl,creamtogetherthebutterandsugaruntilpaleandfluffy,thenaddtheeggalittleatatime,beatingwellaftereachaddition.Foldinhalftheflourwithametalspoon,thenrepeatwiththerest.Addmilkalittleatatimeuntilasoftdroppingconsistencyisreached.

DIVIDETHEMIXTUREINTOTWOBOWLSandaddthelemonzesttoonebowl,stirringitinwell.Mixthecocoapowderwithalittlewatertoformapaste,andaddthispastetotheotherbowlofmixture,againstirringinwell.

PUTALTERNATESPOONFULSOFEACHMIXTUREintothegreasedbasintogiveamarbledeffect.Coverwithalidoradoublelayeroffoilandsteamfor1½–2hours.Servehotwithchocolatesauceorcustard.

VariationForamorecolourfulpudding,theplainmixturecanbetintedwithafewdropsofpinkorredfoodcolouringandflavouredwithalmondessenceinsteadoflemonzest.

ChocolatebreadandbutterpuddingCOOKINGTIME30MINUTES

SERVES4–6

12slicesofwhitebread120–180g(4–6½oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasingFinelygratedzestandjuiceof1orange300g(11oz)darkchocolate,55–70%cocoasolids

3eggs600ml(1pint)milk90g(3oz)castersugarCocoapowder,todustCustard,toserve

GREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)ovenproofbakingdish.Removethecrustsfromthebreadandbuttertheslicesononeside.Linethebottomandsidesofthedishwithsomeofthebread,butter-sideup,andsprinklewithhalftheorangejuiceandzest.

BREAKTHECHOCOLATEINTOSMALLPIECESandsprinklehalfofitacrossthebread,thencoverwithanotherlayerofbread(againbutter-sideup),theremainingchocolate,juiceandzestandfinallytherestofthebread.

BEATTHEEGGSWELLandmixwiththemilkandsugar;pourthismixtureoverthebread.Leavetosoakfor30minutes,thenpreheattheovento200°C(400°F),GasMark6andbakefor30minutesoruntilset.Dustwithcocoapowderandservehotwithcustard.

HotmochapuddingCOOKINGTIME1HOUR

SERVES4–6

110g(4oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing50g(2oz)darkbrownsugar

2eggs75g(3oz)self-raisingflour

1tbspcocoapowderCream,toserve

Forthemochasauce180g(6½oz)darkmuscovadosugar

2tbspcocoapowder225ml(8floz)milk

4tbspTiaMariaPREHEATTHEOVENTO180°C(350°F),GasMark4andgreasea1.1-litre(2-pint)ovenproofbakingdish.Inamixingbowl,beattogetherthebutter,sugar,eggs,flourandcocoapowderuntillightandfluffy.Spoonthemixtureintothegreaseddish.

COMBINETHESUGARANDCOCOAPOWDERforthesauceandsprinkleoverthetopof

themixtureinthedish.MixthemilkandTiaMariatogetherandpourthisoverthetopofthecocoaandsugar:donotstirin.Bakeforapproximately1houruntilthespongeiscookedthrough.Servewithcream.

ArecentadditiontotheEnglishlanguage,theword‘mocha’describesanycombinationofchocolateandcoffee.ItderivesfromthetownofMocha,in

Yemen,whichwasamajortradingcentreforcoffeebeansbetweenthe15thand17thcenturies.Mochabeansarestillavailabletodayandprizedfortheir

distinctiveflavour.

WhitechocolateandraspberrytrifleCOOKINGTIME5MINUTES

SERVES6–8

2Swissrolls(store-boughtorseehere)650g(1lb7oz)raspberries

1tbspkirsch450g(1lb)mascarponecheese300ml(11floz)doublecream200g(7oz)whitechocolateCUTTHESWISSROLLSINTOSLICESabout1cm(½in)thick.Usethesetolinethebottomandsidesofalargeglassservingdish.

PUTTHERASPBERRIESINABOWLandpourthekirschoverthem.Withaspoon,lightlypressthefruittoextractsomejuice.SpoonhalfoftheraspberriesandallofthejuiceandkirschovertheSwissrollinthedish.Putinthefridgefor30minutesuntilthejuicesaresoakedup.

MEANWHILE,COMBINETHEMASCARPONEandcreaminamixingbowlandbeatuntilcompletelycombined.Breakthreequartersofthechocolateintosmallpiecesandplaceinasmallheatproofbowloverasaucepanofsimmeringwater,ensuringthebowldoesn’ttouchthewater.Stiruntilthechocolateisjustmeltedandsmooth.

SPOONHALFOFTHEMELTEDCHOCOLATEovertheraspberriesandSwissrollinthedishandmixtheotherhalfwiththemascarponeandcream.Addthemascarponecreamandremainingraspberriestothetrifleinlayers,finishingwithatoplayerofthecream.Gratetheremainingchocolateoverthetop.Refrigeratefor30minutesbeforeserving.

DarkchocolatepavéCOOKINGTIME15–20MINUTES

SERVES12

1.5litres(2½pints)doublecream350g(12oz)darkchocolate,55–70%cocoasolids

3gelatineleavesSoftredberriesand/ormintleaves,todecorate

LINEA1.5-LITRE(2½-pint)terrinemouldwithclingfilm.Setaside150ml(5floz)ofthedoublecream.Whiptherestofthecreamtosoftpeaks.

MELTTHECHOCOLATEinaheatproofbowlsetoverasaucepanofsimmeringwater,ensuringthatthebottomofthebowldoesn’ttouchthewater.Meanwhile,soakthegelatineleavesincoldwateruntilsoft.Removefromthewaterandputinasmallsaucepanwiththereservedcream.Heatgentlyuntilthegelatinehasdissolved.

FOLDTHEWHIPPEDCREAMintothemeltedchocolate,thenaddthewarmcreamandgelatinemixture,foldingitingently.Pourthemixtureintothelinedmouldandrefrigeratefor2hoursoruntilset.Toserve,turnoutofthemouldontoaboardorcoldplate.Sliceanddecoratewiththeberriesand/ormintleaves.

Pecan,cinnamonandmaplesyruppudding

COOKINGTIME1½HOURS

SERVES6

50g(2oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing75g(3oz)softdarkbrownsugar

1tbspmaplesyrup1egg,beaten100g(3½oz)self-raisingflour

1tspgroundcinnamon3tbspmilk,ifrequired50g(2oz)pecannuts,choppedCustardorcream,toserveForthemaplesauce

25g(1oz)unsaltedbutter

5tspdoublecream40g(1½oz)maplesyrup

GREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasin.Tomakethemaplesauce,putthebutter,doublecreamandmaplesyrupinasaucepan.Mixoveralowheatuntilcombined,thenbringtotheboilandsimmerfor2minutes.Pourthesauceintothebottomofthegreasedbasin.

INAMIXINGBOWL,creamtogetherthebutterandsugaruntilpaleandfluffy,thenaddthemaplesyrup.Graduallyaddthebeatenegg,justalittleatatime,then

foldintheflourandcinnamon.Ifnecessary,addmilkuntilthemixturereachesadroppingconsistency.Finally,stirinthechoppedpecannuts.

SPOONTHEMIXTUREontopofthesauceinthepuddingbasin.Sealwithalidorfoilandsteamfor1½hours.Turnoutandservewithcustardorcream.

WalnutandapplespongepuddingCOOKINGTIME45–50MINUTES

SERVES6

175ml(6floz)milk2tspvanillaessence2tbspcornflour

3eggs200g(7oz)softlightbrownsugar

5tbspbrandy3eatingapples,peeled,coredandsliced75g(3oz)shelledwalnuts,chopped75g(3oz)unsaltedbutter,plusextraforgreasing125g(4½oz)plainflour1½tspbakingpowderWhippedcreamorGreekyoghurt,toserveCOMBINETHEMILK,vanillaessence,cornflour,oneeggand50g(2oz)ofthesugarinasaucepanandwhiskoveragentleheatuntilthemixturethickensintocustard.Pourintoabowlandsetasidetocool.

PUT50g(2oz)ofthesugarintoafryingpan,alongwiththebrandyand5tablespoonsofwater.Addtheapplesandwalnutsandcookoverahighheatuntiltheliquidevaporates.Setasidetocool.

PREHEATTHEOVENTO180°C(350°F),GasMark4andgreaseadeep,1.5-litre(2½-pint),ovenproofbakingdish.Inamixingbowl,beattheremaining100g(3½oz)ofsugarwiththebutteruntilpaleandfluffy,thenaddthetworemainingeggsandmixtoincorporate.Addtheflourandbakingpowderandmixwell.

CHOPUPTHESETCUSTARDandfoldintothespongemixture,thenpourintothegreaseddishandspreadtheappleandwalnutmixoverthetop,pressingthefruitandnutsintothepuddingmixture.Bakefor45–50minutes,thenservewarm,withwhippedcreamorGreekyoghurt.

WalnutandtoffeetartCOOKINGTIME55MINUTES

SERVES6

375g(13oz)shortcrustpastry(seehere),chilled250g(9oz)castersugar300ml(11floz)whippingcream180g(6½oz)walnuts

Icecreamorwhippedcream,toserveROLLOUTTHECHILLEDPASTRYonaflouredsurface,to5mm(¼in)thickness,anduseittolinea30cm(12in)tartdish(seehere).Refrigeratethelineddishfor30minutes,thenpreheattheovento190°C(400°F),GasMark5andblindbakethepastrycasefor25minutes(seehere).

WHILETHEPASTRYISCOOKING,putthesugarandcreaminasaucepanandheatgentlyuntilthesugarhasdissolved.Bringtotheboilandremoveimmediatelyfromtheheat.Stirinthewalnuts.

REMOVETHEPASTRYCASEFROMTHEOVEN,andturndownthetemperatureto190°C(375°F),GasMark5.Pourthewalnutfillingintothecookedcase,returntotheovenandbakeforafurther35minutes.Removefromtheovenandleavetocool,thenrefrigerateandservecoldwithicecreamorwhippedcream.

Maple,walnutandbananapuddingCOOKINGTIME1½HOURS

SERVES4–6

Butter,forgreasing70g(2½oz)choppedwalnuts110ml(4floz)maplesyrup2mediumor1largeripebanana(s)175g(6oz)self-raisingflour75g(3oz)vegetablesuet90g(3oz)castersugar

1egg,beaten70ml(2½floz)milkCustard,toserve

THOROUGHLYGREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasinandputhalfofthewalnutsintothebottomwithjustenoughofthemaplesyruptocoverthem.

PEELANDSLICETHEBANANAandmixwiththeflour,suet,sugarandremainingwalnuts.Addthebeatenegg,milkandremainingmaplesyrupandmixtoasoftdroppingconsistency.

POURTHEMIXTUREOVERTHEWALNUTSandsyrupinthebasinandcoverwithalidorfoil.Steamfor1½hours,toppingupthewaterasnecessary.Servewithcustard.

ThisunusualcombinationofflavoursoftencausesconsternationamongstPuddingClubguests,butitiswonderfullysuccessfulandtheyarealways

silencedafterthefirstmouthful.

DateandwalnutpuddingCOOKINGTIME1½–2HOURS

SERVES6

Butter,forgreasing175g(6oz)self-raisingflourPinchofsalt75g(3oz)shreddedsuet50g(2oz)castersugar50g(2oz)choppeddates50g(2oz)choppedwalnutsGratedzestof1unwaxedlemonApprox.150ml(5floz)milkCustardortoffeesauce(seehere),toserveGREASEA1.1LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasin.Inamixingbowl,combinetheflour,salt,suet,sugar,dates,walnutsandlemonzest.Makeawellinthecentreandaddenoughmilktoreachadroppingconsistency.

POURTHEMIXTUREINTOTHEGREASEDBASINandsmooththesurface.Coverthebasinwithalidordoublelayeroffoil.Steamfor1½–2hours,toppingupthewaterasnecessary.Servewarmwithcustardorwithalittletoffeesauce.

WHYNOTTRY…?Whilecustardistheobviousoptionhere,thispuddingisparticularlydelicious

servedwithalittlestickytoffeesauce(seehere).

HazelnutrouladeCOOKINGTIME45–60MINUTES

SERVES6–8

4eggwhites200g(7oz)castersugar1tspvanillaessence

1tspcornflour1tspwhitewineormaltvinegar

3gelatineleaves375ml(13floz)doublecream,plusextratoserve100g(3½oz)pralinepaste/hazelnutpurée(seetiphere)PREHEATTHEOVENTO160°C(325°F),GasMark3.Whisktheeggwhitesinalarge,scrupulouslycleanbowluntiltheyformsoftpeaks,thengraduallyaddthesugar,continuingtowhiskasyoudoso.Addthevanillaessence,cornflourandvinegarandwhiskuntilthemixtureisstiff.

LINEABAKINGTRAYwithnon-stickbakingparchmentandspreadthemeringuemixevenlyintoasquareofapproximately25cm(10in).Cookintheovenfor25minutes,thenremovefromtheovenandallowtocoolbeforecarefullyremovingthesoftmeringuefromtheparchment.

SOAKTHEGELATINELEAVESincoldwateruntilsoft.Removefromthewater,andputinasmallsaucepanwith125ml(4½floz)ofthecream.Heatgentlytodissolvethegelatine.Whiptheremainingcreamtosoftpeaks.

MIXTHETWOCREAMSTOGETHERandcarefullyfoldinthepralinepaste.

Refrigeratethemixtureuntilithasbeguntostiffen,thenspreadevenlyoverthemeringueandcarefullyrolluplikeaSwissroll.Sliceandservewithalittlecream.

Ifyou’restrugglingtofindthehazelnutorpralinepasteusedinthisrecipe,lookforabrandcalledCallebaut,whichcanbefoundinsomedelicatessensor

boughtonline.

SUMMERPUDDINGS

CHAPTER7

Perfectforwarm,sunnydays,thisselectionofgorgeousrecipesmakesthemostoffreshsummerflavours,includingapricots,cherries,gooseberries,peachesandelderflowers.Getthatholidayfeelingwithafloatingisland,refreshyourguestswithasmoothlemonposset,ortryyourhandattheworld-famouspeachMelba.Andthere’scertainly

noneedtoshunhotpuddingsatthistimeofyear;thischaptersuggestslighter,sponge-basedoptionsandrefreshinglysharpfruitbakesthataredeliciousattheendofabarbecueoralfrescosupper.

SummerPuddings

PeachMelbaBakedpeachesApricotandalmondpuddingsApricottansyApricotturnoversAppleandapricotlayerpuddingHolidaypuddingPlumandcinnamoncobblerSteamedplumspongeBlackcurrantandlemonspongepuddingGooseberryandalmondpuddingGooseberryandorangepuddingGooseberryandelderflowercrumbleGooseberryandelderflowerlayerpuddingLemonpossetLemonlayerpuddingRaspberry,appleandalmondcrumbleBlackberrycharlotteLatticecherrypieFloatingisland

PeachMelbaCOOKINGTIME20–30MINUTES

SERVES6

3tbspcastersugar

6ripepeaches375g(13oz)raspberriesGood-qualityvanillaicecream,toserve

PLACE600ml(1pint)waterinasaucepan,addthecastersugarandheattoagentlesimmer.Addthewholepeachestothepanandpoachuntiltender,overalowheat,for15–20minutes.Removethepeachesfromtheliquidandleavetocool.Keepsomeofthepoachingliquortouselater.

ONCETHEPEACHESARECOOL,cutinhalfandremovethestones.Youcanalsoskinthem,ifyouwish.Puttheraspberriesinablenderwith1–2tablespoonsofthepoachingliquorandblitztoapurée.Pushthepuréethroughasievetoremovetheseeds.

TOSERVE,PLACEASCOOPofvanillaicecreamintoeachsmallservingbowl,addtwopoachedpeachhalvesandspoonsomeraspberrypuréeoverthetop.

VariationTryusingfreshblackcurrantstomakethepurée,insteadofraspberries.Theblackcurrantswillneedtobecookedgentlybeforeyoublendthem.

Thissimplebutdeliciousdessertwasinventedbytheworld-famouschefEscoffier,inhonourofAustraliansopranoDameNellieMelba,whenshevisitedtheSavoyinthelate19thcentury.Icecreamwasstillanexoticnewarrivalin

Britainatthetime.

BakedpeachesCOOKINGTIME20–30MINUTES

SERVES4

15g(½oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing1tbspcastersugar

1eggyolk50g(2oz)amarettiorratafiabiscuits,crumbled

4largeripepeachesornectarinesCreamoricecream,toserve

PREHEATTHEOVENTO180°C(350°F),GasMark4andlightlygreaseanovenproofbakingdish.Inamixingbowl,creamtogetherthebutterandsugaruntilpaleandfluffy.Addtheeggyolkandstirinthecrumbledbiscuits.

IFYOUAREUSINGPEACHES(noneedifusingnectarines),placetheminasaucepanandcoverwithboilingwater.Leavefor2–3minutes,thendrainthewaterandpeelofftheskins.Halvethepeachesornectarinesandremovethestones.Enlargethecavitiesbyscoopingoutsomeofthefleshwithateaspoonandaddingthepulptothebiscuitmixture.

PILETHEBISCUITSTUFFINGintothepeachhalvesandarrangeinthebakingdish.Bakeintheovenfor20–30minutesuntilthepeachesaresoftbutstillholdingtheirshape.Servewarmwithcreamoricecream.

ApricotandalmondpuddingsCOOKINGTIME15MINUTES

MAKES8

100g(3½oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing100g(3½oz)castersugar

2eggs100g(3½oz)self-raisingflour

1tspalmondessence50g(2oz)groundalmonds240g(8½oz)stoned,dicedfreshapricots(orcookeddriedapricots)40ml(1½floz)goldensyrupCustardoricecream,toservePREHEATTHEOVENTO180°C(350°F),GasMark4andgreaseeight200ml(7floz)puddingbasins.Inamixingbowl,creamtogetherthebutterandsugaruntilpaleandfluffy.Addtheeggsgradually–ifthemixtureseparates,juststirinalittleoftheflour.Addthealmondessence,thenfoldintheremainingflourandgroundalmonds.

PLACE30g(1oz)oftheapricotsandabout1teaspoonofthesyrupinthebottomofeachgreasedbasin.Dividethespongemixtureevenlybetweenthebasinsandcoverwithlidsorfoil.Bakeforapproximately15minutes,untilfirmtothetouchandgoldenbrown.Servewithcustardoricecream.

ApricottansyCOOKINGTIME10MINUTES

SERVES4–6

50g(2oz)unsaltedbutter450g(1lb)fresh,ripeapricots,stonedandquartered75g(3oz)castersugar,plusextraforserving4eggs,plus2yolks

2tbspdoublecream75g(3oz)finewhitebreadcrumbsPinchofgroundnutmegCream,toserve

MELT35g(1½oz)ofthebutterinaheavy-basedfryingpanoveragentleheat.Addtheapricotsandsprinklewith50g(2oz)ofthesugar.Cookgentlyuntilsoftenedbutnotcoloured.

BEATTOGETHERTHEWHOLEEGGS,eggyolks,cream,breadcrumbs,nutmegandtheremaining25g(1oz)ofsugar.Pourthisovertheapricotsinthepan,stirringtogetherintoonethicklayer.Cookgentlyuntilgoldenbrownunderneath.Turnoutontoaplate.

MELTTHEREMAININGBUTTERinthepanandcarefullyslidethetansybackintothepantocooktheothersideuntilgoldenbrown.Turnoutontoawarmplateandsprinklewiththeextrasugar.Servewithcream.

Notunlikeasweetomelette,atansywouldoncehavebeenflavouredwiththebittersweetjuiceofthetansyplant,aherbthatisthesedaysallbutforgotten.

ApricotturnoversCOOKINGTIME30–35MINUTES

SERVES6

450g(1lb)fresh,ripeapricots,stonedandquarteredJuiceof1lemon¼tspgroundcinnamon75g(3oz)castersugar450g(1lb)puffpastryFlour,fordusting

1eggVanillaicecream,toserve

PUTTHEAPRICOTSINASAUCEPANwiththelemonjuice,cinnamon,50g(2oz)ofthesugarand1tablespoonofwater.Heatgentlyuntilthefruithassoftened,stirringoccasionally,thenremovefromtheheatandleavetocooltoroomtemperature.

PREHEATTHEOVENTO180°C(350°F),GasMark4.Rolloutthepuffpastryonaflouredsurface,andcutoutsix15cm(6in)squares.Place3tablespoonsofthefruitmixtureintothecentreofeachsquare.Beattheeggwithalittlewater,andbrushsomeoftheeggmixtureontotheedgesofthepastry.Foldthepastryovertoformtrianglesandpressfirmlytoseal.

BRUSHTHETOPOFTHETRIANGLESwithmoreoftheeggmixtureandsprinklewiththeremainingcastersugar.Bakefor20–25minutesuntilgoldenbrown.Servewithvanillaicecream.

AppleandapricotlayerpuddingCOOKINGTIME1½HOURS

SERVES4–6

2mediumeatingapples160g(5½oz)goldensyrup90g(3oz)raisins300g(11oz)choppeddriedapricots

1tspmixedspiceButter,forgreasingCustard,toserve

Forthesuetpastry240g(8½oz)self-raisingflour,sifted,plusextrafordusting110g(4oz)vegetablesuet30g(1oz)castersugar160ml(5½floz)milkTOMAKETHESUETPASTRY,mixtheingredientsinalargebowlandbringthedoughtogetherwithyourhands.Rolloutonaflouredsurfaceandcutoutfourcircles,graduatinginsizetofita1.1-litre(2-pint)puddingbasin.

PEELANDCORETHEAPPLESandchopintosmallpieces.Warmthegoldensyrupinasmallsaucepanorthemicrowave,thenmixwiththeapples,raisins,apricotsandmixedspice.

GREASETHEBASINandputthesmallestpastrycircleinthebase.Topwithalayerofthefruitmixture.Addthenextcircleofpastryandrepeatthelayers,untilyoufinishwiththelargestcircleofpastry.Coversecurelywithalidorfoilandsteamfor1½hours.Turnoutandservewithcustard.

HolidaypuddingCOOKINGTIME2HOURS

SERVES6

2tbspgoldensyrup1×225gtinofpineapplerings,drained60g(2oz)glacécherries120g(4oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing120g(4oz)castersugar2largeeggs,beaten

90g(3oz)self-raisingflourPinchofsalt60g(2oz)breadcrumbs60g(2oz)raisins30g(1oz)choppedmixedcandiedpeel30g(1oz)choppedwalnutsCustard,toserveGREASEA1.5-LITRE(2½-pint)puddingbasinandlinethebasewithacircleofgreaseproofpaper.Putthegoldensyrupintothebasinandarrangeonedrainedpineappleringinthebottomwithacherryinthecentre.Cuttworingsinhalfandarrangethesehalvesaroundthefirstring.Putacherryineachhole.Choptheremainingpineappleringsandglacécherries.

INAMIXINGBOWL,creamtogetherthebutterandsugaruntilpaleandfluffy,thenaddthebeateneggs.Sifttheflourandsaltintoaseparatebowlandaddtothecreamedmixturealongwiththebreadcrumbs.Mixwelltoincorporate,thenstirinalltheraisins,peelandnuts.

PILETHEMIXTUREONTOPofthearrangedfruit.Coversecurelywithalidorfoilandsteamfor2hours.Turnoutandservewithcustard.

There’sabrightandcheerfultropicaltreatwaitingtoberevealedwhenyouturnthispuddingout.

SteamedplumspongeCOOKINGTIME1½HOURS

SERVES4–6

1kg(2lb2oz)freshplums230g(10oz)castersugar170g(6oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing

3eggs,beaten170g(6oz)self-raisingflour,sifted50ml(2floz)plumbrandyorslivovitzCustard,toserveLIGHTLYGREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasin.Stoneandquartertheplumsandplaceinamediumsaucepanwith60g(2oz)ofthesugar.Cookgentlyforabout5minutesuntiltheplumsbegintosoften.Removefromtheheatandallowtocoolalittle.

INAMIXINGBOWL,creamtogetherthebutterandremainingsugaruntilpaleandfluffy.Graduallybeatintheeggs,thenmixintheflourandplumbrandy.Mixwelltocombine.

PUTTHREEQUARTERSOFTHESOFTENEDPLUMSinthebottomofthegreasedbasinandpourthespongemixtureontop.Coverwithalidorfoilandsteamfor1½hours.Servewithcustardandtheremainingplums,reheatedcarefullysothattheydonotovercook.

Blackcurrantandlemonspongepudding

COOKINGTIME2HOURS

SERVES6

100g(3½oz)good-qualityblackcurrantjam,plusextratoserve200g(7oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing200g(7oz)goldencastersugar

3largeeggs,beaten200g(7oz)self-raisingflourGratedzestof½unwaxedlemonCreamorcustard,toserveGREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasinandplacetheblackcurrantjaminthebase.Inamixingbowl,creamtogetherthebutterandsugaruntilpaleandfluffy.Graduallyaddthebeatenegg–ifthemixtureseparates,juststirinalittleoftheflour.

FOLDINTHEREMAININGFLOURandthelemonzestandspoonthespongemixtureoverthejaminthegreasedbasin.Coverwithalidorfoilandsteamfor2hours.Oncecooked,turnoutontoaplateandservewithcreamorcustard,plusextrajamifyouwish.

GooseberryandalmondpuddingCOOKINGTIME40–50MINUTES

SERVES4

250g(9oz)gooseberries(freshorfrozen),toppedandtailed110g(4oz)castersugar60g(2oz)unsaltedbutter,softened

1egg30g(1oz)self-raisingflour30g(1oz)groundalmondsCustard,toserve

PREHEATTHEOVENTO170°C(325°F),GasMark3.Putthegooseberriesinanovenproofbakingdishandsprinklewith50g(2oz)ofthesugar.

INAMIXINGBOWL,creamtogetherthebutterandremaining60g(2oz)ofsugaruntilpaleandfluffy.Beatintheegg.Sifttheflourandfoldthisintothemixture,alongwiththegroundalmonds.Coverthegooseberrieswiththismixture.

BAKETHEPUDDINGINTHEOVENFOR40–50minutesuntilthespongeisgoldenbrownandhasrisen.Servewithcustard.

Ifyouusefrozengooseberries,defrostfirstanddrainofftheexcessliquid.

GooseberryandorangepuddingCOOKINGTIME40–50MINUTES

SERVES6

900g(2lb)gooseberries(freshorfrozen),toppedandtailed

2tbspdarkmuscovadosugarFinelygratedzestof1orangeFewdropsofvanillaessence175g(6oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing175g(6oz)goldencastersugar

3largeeggs175g(6oz)self-raisingflourCustard,toserve

PREHEATTHEOVENTO200°C(400°F),GasMark6andgreaseamedium-sizedovenproofbakingdish.Putthegooseberriesintothedishandsprinklewiththemuscovadosugar,orangezestandvanillaessence.

INAMIXINGBOWL,creamtogetherthebutterandcastersugaruntilpaleandfluffy,thenbeatintheeggs.Siftintheflourandstiruntilincorporated.Spreadthemixtureoverthegooseberriesandbakefor40–50minutesuntilthespongehasbrowned.Ifitlookslikethepuddingisbrowningtooquickly,coverwithfoil.Servewithcustard.

GooseberryandelderflowercrumbleCOOKINGTIME45MINUTES

SERVES8

650g(1lb7oz)gooseberries(freshorfrozen),toppedandtailed250ml(9floz)elderflowercordialCastersugar,totaste

245g(8½oz)self-raisingflour165g(5½oz)demerarasugar60g(2oz)margarine

60g(2oz)unsaltedbutter,cutintopieces

1tspvanillaessenceCustardorcream,toserve

PREHEATTHEOVENTO180°C(350°F),GasMark4.Putthegooseberriesinalargesaucepanwiththeelderflowercordialandpoachoveralowheatfor10–15minutes,untilthefruitislightlycookedbutstillholdingitsshape.Removefromtheheatandaddcastersugartotaste.

MEANWHILE,MAKETHECRUMBLETOPPINGbysiftingtheflourintoalargebowlandmixinginthedemerarasugar.Addthemargarine,butterandvanillaessencetothebowlandmixwithyourfingertipstotheconsistencyoffinecrumbs.

POURTHEGOOSEBERRIESandtheirpoachingliquidintoadeep,ovenproofbakingdish,distributethecrumblemixontopandpressdowntofirm.Cookintheovenfor45minutesuntilgoldenbrown.Servewithcustardorcream.

Thisrecipecombinestwoverytraditional(andmuchunderused)Britishingredientstogiveasurprisinglymoderntwistontheclassicfruitcrumble.The

resultiswonderfullysweetandfragrant.

Gooseberryandelderflowerlayerpudding

COOKINGTIME1HOUR

SERVES6–8

900g(2lb)greengooseberries(freshorfrozen),toppedandtailed

3elderflowerheads600g(1lb5oz)castersugar50g(2oz)unsaltedbutter12slicesofwhitebread,crustsremoved225ml(8floz)milk

450ml(16floz)doublecream4largeeggs,lightlybeaten

1tspvanillaessence15g(½oz)softlightbrownsugarCreamorcrèmefraîche,toserve

PUTTHEGOOSEBERRIES,ELDERFLOWERSAND450g(1lb)ofthecastersugarinamediumsaucepanandstirverygentlyoveramediumheatuntilthegooseberrieshavesplitopen.Removetheelderflowersanddiscardthem.

BUTTERTHEBREADandarrangefourslices,butter-sidedown,inasinglelayerina20cm(8in)square,ovenproofbakingdish.Spreadaboutathirdofthegooseberrymixtureoverthebread,thentopwithanotherfourpiecesofbread,butter-sidedown.Addanotherthirdofthegooseberrymix,thentopwiththefinalfourslicesofbread,againbutter-sidedown,tocompletethelayers.Keepthefinalthirdofthegooseberrymixtureforserving.

INABOWL,WHISKTOGETHERthemilk,cream,eggs,vanillaessenceandremaining150g(5oz)ofcastersugar,thenpourthisoverthetopofthepudding.Sprinklethebrownsugaroverthetop,andallowthepuddingtorestforanhour.

PREHEATTHEOVENTO180°C(350°F),GasMark4.Placethebakingdishina

largeroastingtinandpourwaterintothetintocomehalfwayupthesidesofthedish.Bakeintheovenfor1houroruntilthetopofthepuddingisgoldenbrown.Servewarmwiththereservedgooseberrymixtureandcreamorcrèmefraîche.

LemonpossetCOOKINGTIME10MINUTES

SERVES6

550ml(19floz)doubleorwhippingcream140g(5oz)castersugarFinelygratedzestandjuiceof2largeunwaxedlemons

6spongefingerbiscuitsPUTTHECREAMANDSUGARinalargesaucepanandgraduallybringtotheboil.Simmerfor3minutesthenremovefromtheheat.Whiskinthelemonjuiceandzestuntilcompletelyincorporated.

POURTHEMIXTUREINTOSIXSERVINGGLASSESorramekinsandchillforabout2hours.Gentlydipthespongefingerbiscuitsintothepossetjustbeforeserving.

Datingbacktothe15thcentury,thepossetbeganlifeasadrinkmadefrommilkandflavouredwithspices,devisedasaremedyforillness.ItevenappearsinShakespeare,whenLadyMacbethuses‘drugg’d’possetstopoisontheguards

whoblockherway.

LemonlayerpuddingCOOKINGTIME2½–3HOURS

SERVES6

2eggs180g(6½oz)castersugarFinelygratedzestandjuiceof2unwaxedlemons60g(2oz)unsaltedbutter,melted,plusextraforgreasingCustard,toserve

120g(4oz)vegetablesuetGREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasin.Tomakethesuetpastry,sifttheflourandsaltintoalargebowlandmixinthesuet.Addenoughcoldwatertoformasoftdough.

ROLLOUTHALFOFTHEPASTRYonaflouredsurfaceanduseittolinethegreasedbasin.Dividetherestofthepastryroughlyintotwo,androllthesepiecesouttomakelayersofpastrythatgraduateinsizeforthemiddleandtopofthepudding.

TOMAKETHEFILLING,beattogethertheeggs,sugar,lemonzestandjuiceandmeltedbutter.Pourhalfofthismixtureintothelinedbasin,addthecentrallayerofpastry,pourintheremainingmixtureandtopwiththefinallayerofpastry.Coversecurelywithalidorfoilandsteamfor2½–3hours.Turnoutandservewithcustard.

Raspberry,appleandalmondcrumbleCOOKINGTIME45MINUTES

SERVES8

245g(8½oz)self-raisingflour185g(6½oz)demerarasugar60g(2oz)unsaltedbutter,cutintopieces60g(2oz)margarine

60g(2oz)flakedornibbedalmonds

1tspalmondessence250g(9oz)raspberries450g(1lb)peeled,coredandchoppedcookingappleCastersugar,totasteCustardorwhippedvanillacream(seebox),toserve

PREHEATTHEOVENTO200°C(400°F),GasMark6.Sifttheflourintoalargebowlandmixinthedemerarasugar.Addthebutterandmargarineandmixwithyourfingertipstoafinecrumbconsistency.Addthealmondsandalmondessenceandmixthrough.

MIXTOGETHERTHERASPBERRIES,appleandcastersugarandplaceinthebaseofadeep,30cm(12in),ovenproofbakingdish.Addthecrumbletoppingandfirmdownalittle.Bakeintheovenforapproximately45minutesuntilgoldenbrown.Servewithcustardorwhippedvanillacream.

WHYNOTTRY…?Thispuddingislovelyservedwithvanilla-flavouredwhippedcream.Simplyaddalittlevanillaextract,ortheseedsfromavanillapod,todoubleorwhipping

creamandwhipasnormal.

BlackberrycharlotteCOOKINGTIME45MINUTES

SERVES6–8

110g(4oz)castersugar,plusextratotaste450g(1lb)blackberries1½tbspcornflour

2eggs,separated4½tbspdoubleorwhippingcream,plusextratoserveJuiceof½lemon110g(4oz)spongefingerbiscuits110g(4oz)icingsugar

PUTTHECASTERSUGARand275ml(½pint)waterinapanandheatgentlyuntilthesugarhasdissolved.Addtheblackberriesandcookoveralowheatfor10minutes.Strainandreservethesyrup,puttingtheblackberriestooneside.

TOMAKETHEBLACKBERRYCREAM,putthecornflourinasmallsaucepanandgraduallyblendin275ml(½pint)ofthesyrup(reservetheremainingsyruptouseinthemeringue).Cookforafewminutes,stirring,thenremovefromtheheat.Beattheeggyolksandcreamintothecornflourmixture.Addthelemonjuiceandmoresugarifrequired.

CUTOFFONEROUNDEDENDOFEACHspongefinger.Pourenoughoftheblackberrycreamintoa570ml(1-pint)ovenproofglassorPyrexsoufflédishtocoverthebottomandstandthespongefingers,cut-sidedownandsugar-sideout,aroundtheinsideedgeofthedishuntilcompletelylined.Arrangealayerofthereservedblackberriesoverthecream,followedbyanotherlayerofcream,repeatinguntiltheberriesandcreamareusedup.

PREHEATTHEOVENTO150°C(300°F),GasMark2.Puttheeggwhites,icingsugarand4½tablespoonsoftheblackberrysyrupinamedium–largeheatproofbowlsetoverasaucepanofsimmeringwater.Whiskuntilthemeringuereachessoftpeaks.Removethebowlfromtheheatandkeepwhiskinguntilthemeringuehascooled.Pileorpipethemeringueontothetopofthepuddingandbakefor20minutes.Leavetocoolandservecoldwithwhippedcream.

LatticecherrypieCOOKINGTIME40–45MINUTES

SERVES4

250g(9oz)shortcrustpastry(seehere)500g(1lb2oz)cherries75g(3oz)castersugar

1tbspcornflour30g(1oz)unsaltedbutter,plusextraforgreasingSqueezeoflemonjuice1egg,beaten

Pouringcream,toservePREHEATTHEOVENTO180°C(350°F),GasMark4.Lightlygreasea20cm(8in)shallowpiedish.Rolloutthechilledpastryonaflouredsurface,to5mm(¼in)thickness,andlinethepiedish(seehere).Keepthepastrytrimmings.

REMOVETHESTEMSANDSTONESfromthecherries.Putthefruitinasaucepanwiththesugar,cornflour,butter,lemonjuiceand1tablespoonofwater.Gentlybringtotheboilandcookfor1minute.Removefromtheheatandallowtocoolslightly,thenspoonintotheuncookedpastrycase.

MAKEALATTICETOPfromthepastrytrimmings.Brushthetopwithalittlebeateneggandbakethepieintheovenfor30–40minutesuntilthepastryiscookedandgoldenbrown.Servewithpouringcream.

FloatingislandCOOKINGTIME30MINUTES

SERVES4

15g(½oz)unsaltedbutter100g(4oz)sugaredalmonds,inmixedcolours

4eggs,separated250g(9oz)castersugar,plusextraforthetin275ml(½pint)milkFewdropsofvanillaessence

PREHEATTHEOVENTO175°C(350°C),GasMark3–4.Usethebuttertogreaseadeep,round,15cm(6in)caketinandcoatitwithalittlesugar.Wrapthesugaredalmondsinacleanteatowelandcrushthemcoarselywitharollingpin.

INASCRUPULOUSLYCLEANBOWL,whisktheeggwhitesuntilstiff,thengraduallyadd110g(4oz)ofthesugar,continuingtowhiskasyoudoso.Gentlyfoldafurther110g(4oz)ofthesugarintotheeggwhiteswithametalspoon.

POURONETHIRDOFTHISMERINGUEMIXTUREintothepreparedtin,followedbyhalfthecrushedalmonds,afurtherthirdoftheegg-whitemixture,therestofthealmondsandfinallyatoplayerofmeringue.Placethecaketininaroastingtinandpourboilingwateraroundittoadepthofabout2.5cm(1in).Bakefor30minutesthenremovefromtheovenandleavetocool.

WHILETHISISCOOKING,beattheeggsyolkswiththeremaining30g(1oz)ofsugar.Heatthemilkinasmallsaucepanuntilalmostboiling,thenstirintheegg-yolkmixture.Blendthoroughlyandstrainintoaheatproofbowlsetoverasaucepanofsimmeringwater.Stirgentlyforabout10minutesuntilyouhavethickeningcustard.Removefromtheheat,addafewdropsofvanillaessenceandallowthecustardtocool,stirringregularlytopreventaskinforming.Pourthecooledcustardintoalarge,deep,roundbowl.Carefullyloosenthemeringuefromthetinwithasmallknifeandplaceontothecustard.Servecold.

WINTERPUDDINGS

CHAPTER8

Astheweathergrowscolderandthenightsdrawin,whatbetterwaytowarmyourcocklesthanwithagenerousbowlofsomething

steamingandsweet?Inthischapteryou’llfindanarrayofhot,heartypuddings,alongwithideasforusinguptheglutofpears,blackberriesandotherlate-autumnfruits.Therearealsoplentyofrecipesforthefestiveseason,givingyouthechoiceofatraditionalChristmaspud,amodernversionthatcanbecookedentirelyinthemicrowave,orthequick-to-makeStNick’spuddingforthosewhopreferalighteroption.Andinsteadoftraditionalmincepies,whynotserveyourguestsourmincemeattartorrolypolyalongwithmulledwinejelly

foraChristmaspartywithadifference?

WinterPuddings

AppleandmincemeatpuddingBramleyappleandlemoncurdpuddingsAppleandcinnamonamberElderberry,blackberryandapplepuddingAutumnpearpuddingPearandgingerupside-downpuddingPearspoachedinmulledwineRaisingingerpuddingSevilleorangemarmaladebreadandbutterpuddingBloodorangepuddingsFiggypuddingAmodernChristmaspuddingOldHookyChristmaspuddingPlumduffStNick’spuddingsChristmaspuddingMincemeatrolypolyMulledwinejellyMincemeattartSpicedwinterfruitsalad

AppleandmincemeatpuddingCOOKINGTIME1½HOURS

SERVES4–6

1tbspbrandy140g(5oz)mincemeat150g(5½oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing125g(4½oz)castersugar3eggs,beaten

170g(6oz)self-raisingflour1tbspbakingpowder

2smalleatingapplesCustard,toserve

GREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasin.Stirthebrandyintothemincemeatandplaceinthebottomofthegreasedbasin.Inamixingbowl,creamtogetherthebutterandsugaruntilpaleandfluffy,thengraduallymixinthebeateneggs.

SIFTTHEFLOURANDBAKINGPOWDERtogetherandfoldintothecreamedmixture.Coreandroughlychoptheapplesinto1cm(½in)piecesandstirintothemixture.Pourthespongemixtureoverthemincemeatinthebasin,coversecurelywithalidorfoilandsteamfor1½hours.Servewithcustard.

Ifyoudon’tmakeyourownmincemeatbuyaready-madeversionandaddmorebrandy,cherry,almondsorwhateveryoufancy.

Bramleyappleandlemoncurdpuddings

COOKINGTIME15MINUTES

MAKES6

115g(4oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing115g(4oz)castersugar

2eggs½tspvanillaessenceGratedunwaxedlemonzest,totaste115g(4oz)self-raisingflour

2tbspmilkCreamorcustard,toserveFortheappleandlemoncurd225g(8oz)Bramleyapples,peeled,coredandchoppedGratedzestof1unwaxedlemon65g(2½oz)unsaltedbutter125g(4½oz)granulatedsugar50ml(2floz)freshlemonjuice2eggs,beatenFIRSTMAKETHEAPPLEANDLEMONCURD.Putthechoppedapplesinasaucepanwiththelemonzestand50ml(2floz)water.Cookuntilsoft,thenremovefromtheheatandpushthroughasieveorprocessinthepanwithahandblenderuntilyouhaveasmoothpurée.

PUTTHEAPPLEPURÉEintoalargeheatproofbowlwiththebutter,sugarandlemonjuiceandsetoverasaucepanofsimmeringwater.Assoonasthebutterhasmelted,pressthebeateneggthroughasieveintothebowlandwhisktocombine.(Ifyouhaveacookingthermometer,makesurethemixtureisnotabove55°Cwhenaddingtheegg,oritwillscramble.)Stiroveragentleheatuntilthemixtureisthickandcreamy;thiswilltakeabout5–6minutes.Leavetocool.

INAMIXINGBOWL,creamtogetherthebutterandcastersugaruntilpaleand

fluffy.Graduallyaddtheeggs–ifthemixtureseparates,juststirinalittleoftheflour.Addthevanillaessenceandlemonzest.Foldintheremainingflourinstages,thenaddmilkuntiladroppingconsistencyisachieved.

PREHEATTHEOVENTO180°C(350°F),GasMark4andgreasesix200ml(7floz)ovenproofpuddingbasins.Place40g(1½oz)ofthecooledappleandlemoncurdintoeachpuddingbasin.Dividethespongemixevenlyamongthepuddingmoulds.

BAKEINTHEOVENFORapproximately15minutesuntilfirmtothetouchandgolden.Removefromtheovenandturnoutontoservingplates.Servewithcreamorcustard.

AppleandcinnamonamberCOOKINGTIME1HOUR

SERVES4–6

450g(1lb)peeled,coredcookingapples50g(2oz)unsaltedbutter,plusextraforgreasing200g(7oz)castersugar225g(8oz)freshwhitebread½tspgroundcinnamon

3eggs,separatedPREHEATTHEOVENTO180°C(350°F),GasMark4andgreasea20cm(8in)piedish.Quartertheapplesandcuteachpieceinhalfagain.Putinasaucepanwiththebutterand50g(2oz)ofthesugar.Cookoveragentleheatuntilthefruitmixtureissoftandthick.

PROCESSTHEBREADINTOFINEBREADCRUMBSandstirintothefruitmixturealongwiththecinnamon.Beattheeggyolksintothemixture,pourintothepiedishandbakeintheovenfor30minutes.

MEANWHILE,WHISKTHEEGGWHITESinascrupulouslycleanbowluntiltheyformstiffpeaks.Addhalftheremainingsugarandwhiskuntilthemixtureisthickandshiny.Foldintheremainingsugarwithametalspoonandpilethemeringueontothecookedfruitbase.Returntotheovenandbakeforanother10minutes,thenserveimmediately.

Elderberry,blackberryandapplepudding

COOKINGTIME40–55MINUTES

SERVES6–8

450g(1lb)cookingapples,peeled,coredandsliced110g(4oz)blackberries50g(2oz)elderberries,stalksremoved

1heapedtbspseedlessraspberryjam175g(6oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing150g(5oz)lightbrownmuscovadosugar

1tbspgoldensyrup4eggs,beaten110g(4oz)self-raisingflour110g(4oz)groundalmonds

1tspbakingpowder½tspalmondextractCreamoricecream,toserve

THOROUGHLYGREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)ovenproofbakingdish.Puttheapples,blackberries,elderberriesandjamintoasaucepan,coverwithalidandcookgentlyfor10–15minutesuntilsoft.Pourintothebakingdish.

PREHEATTHEOVENTO170°C(325°F),GasMark3.Inamixingbowl,beattogetherthebutter,sugarandgoldensyrupuntilpale,thengraduallyaddtheeggs,beatingwellbetweeneachaddition.Foldintheflour,groundalmonds,

bakingpowderandalmondextract.Pourontothefruitmixtureinthebakingdish.Smooththetopandbakeintheovenfor30–40minutesuntilthespongeisgoldenbrownandfirmtothetouch.Ifitlookslikeitisbrowningtooquicklyduringcooking,coverwithfoil.Servewithcreamoricecream.

AutumnpearpuddingCOOKINGTIME3HOURS

SERVES4–6

Butter,forgreasing120g(4oz)self-raisingflourPinchofsalt120g(4oz)breadcrumbs120g(4oz)vegetablesuet120g(4oz)sultanas90g(3oz)castersugar

1egg,beaten120g(4oz)goldensyrupFinelygratedzestandjuiceof½orange1largepear,peeled,coredandchoppedorgratedCustard,toserveGREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasin.Sifttheflourandsalttogetherintoalargebowlandmixinthebreadcrumbs,suet,sultanasandsugar.

BLENDTHEBEATENEGGwiththegoldensyrup,orangejuiceandzest,thenmixintothedrymixturealongwiththechoppedorgratedpear.Stirwellandpourintothepuddingbasin.Coversecurelywithalidorfoilandsteamfor3hours.Turnoutandservewithcustard.

Pearandgingerupside-downpuddingCOOKINGTIME45–55MINUTES

SERVES6

165g(5½oz)unsaltedbutter,plusextraforgreasing140g(5oz)softdarkbrownsugar3pears,peeled,coredandquartered30g(1oz)stemginger,chopped115g(4oz)blacktreacle115g(4oz)goldensyrup2tspgroundcinnamon

2tspgroundginger¼tspgroundnutmeg2eggs,beaten150ml(5floz)milk225g(8oz)plainflour,sifted

1tspbakingpowderCustardoricecream,toserve

PREHEATTHEOVENTO180°C(350°F),GasMark4.Greaseadeep,round,23cm(9in)caketinandlinewithgreaseproofpaper.Put50g(2oz)ofthebutterand70g(2½oz)ofthesugarinasaucepanandheatgentlyuntilthesugarhasdissolved.Pourintothebaseofthelinedtin,arrangethequarteredpearsontopandsprinklewiththechoppedstemginger.

PLACETHEREMAININGBUTTERANDSUGARinasaucepanwiththetreacleandgoldensyrup.Heatgentlyuntilcombined,thenremovefromtheheatandaddthecinnamon,gingerandnutmeg,followedbythebeateneggandthemilk.Finallyaddthesiftedflourandbakingpowderandmixtoformasmoothbatter.

POURTHEBATTEROVERTHEPEARSinthetinandbakeintheovenfor40–50minutes.Checkwithaskewerthatthepuddingiscookedthrough,thenturnout

ontoaservingplateandservewithcustardoricecream.

PearspoachedinmulledwineCOOKINGTIME25–40MINUTES

SERVES8

600ml(1pint)full-bodiedredwineGratedzestandjuiceof1orange4cloves

1cinnamonstickSmallpieceoffreshrootginger,peeledandsliced1vanillapod,splitlengthways300g(11oz)castersugar

8slightlyunder-ripepears(Conferenceareideal)Icecream,toserveFIRSTYOUNEEDTOMULLTHEWINE.Placealltheingredients,exceptforthepears,inalargesaucepan,add600ml(1pint)waterandbringtotheboil,thenreducetheheatandsimmerfor5minutes.

PEELTHEPEARS,lowerintothesimmeringwinesyrupandweighthemdownwithaplatesothattheyarefullysubmerged.Coverthepanwithalid.Checkthepearsafter20minutes–theyshouldoffernoresistancewhenprickedwithasharpknife.Continuetocookifnecessary.Oncecooked,removefromtheheatandleavethepearstocoolinthesyrup.Servewithicecream.

RaisingingerpuddingCOOKINGTIME3HOURS

SERVES4–6

Butter,forgreasing120g(4oz)plainflour½tspbicarbonateofsodaPinchofsalt

120g(4oz)breadcrumbs1tspgroundginger

1tspgroundallspice90g(3oz)vegetablesuet90g(3oz)raisins20g(¾oz)stemginger,chopped60g(2oz)goldensyrupMilk,tomix

Custard,toserveGREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasin.Sifttheflour,bicarbonateofsodaandsalttogetherintoalargebowl,thenmixinalltheremainingdryingredients,includingtheraisinsandstemginger.

MELTTHEGOLDENSYRUPinasmallsaucepanorthemicrowave,addtothemixeddryingredientsandstirinenoughmilktoreachadroppingconsistency.Spoonintothebasin,coversecurelywithalidorfoilandsteamfor3hours.Turnoutandservewithcustard.

Soaktheraisinsingingerwineforanhourortwobeforeusing.Haveatippleyourselftoo,butnotsomanythatyoutipover!

Sevilleorangemarmaladebreadandbutterpudding

COOKINGTIME30MINUTES

SERVES4–6

120–180g(4–6½oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing12slicesofwhitebread,crustsremoved200g(7oz)medium-cutSevilleorangemarmalade

3eggs600ml(1pint)milk90g(3oz)castersugarGroundcinnamonornutmeg,tosprinkleCustard,toserve(optional)

GREASEA1.1-litre(2-pint)ovenproofbakingdish.

BUTTERTHEBREADSLICESononeside.Linethebottomandsidesofthegreaseddishwithsomeofthebread,butter-sideup.Ifthereanylargepiecesofrindinthemarmalade,cutthemintosmaller2cm(¾in)pieces,thenspreadhalfofthemarmaladeoverthebread.Addanotherlayerofbreadandspreadtherestofthemarmaladeontothislayer.Finishwiththeremainingbread.

BEATTHEEGGSWELL,mixwiththemilkandsugar,andpourthismixtureoverthepudding.Sprinklewithcinnamonornutmegandleavetosoakfor30minutes,thenpreheattheovento200°C(400°F),GasMark6andbakethepuddingfor30minutesoruntilset.Servehot,onitsownorwithcustard.

BloodorangepuddingsCOOKINGTIME30MINUTES

MAKES4

4bloodoranges120g(4oz)butter,softened,plusextraforgreasing120g(4oz)castersugar,plusanextra3tbspforthesyrup120g(4oz)self-raisingflour,sifted2eggs,beaten

1tbspgoldensyrupCustardoricecream,toserve

FINELYGRATETHEZESTOFtwoofthebloodoranges,thenpeelandsegmentthemandsetthesegmentsaside.Inamixingbowl,creamthebutterandsugaruntilpaleandfluffy,thenaddtheorangezest.Addthesiftedflourtothecreamedmixturealittleatatime,alternatingwiththebeatenegg,andbeatingwellaftereachaddition.

GREASEFOUR200ml(7floz)puddingbasins.Putalittleofthegoldensyrupintothebottomofeachbasin.Placeacoupleofthereservedorangesegmentsinthebaseofeachbasin(keeptheremainingsegmentstooneside).Dividethespongemixtureequallybetweenthebasins.Coversecurelywithlidsorfoilandsteamfor30minutes.

WHILETHEPUDDINGSARECOOKING,juicetheremainingtwooranges,placethejuiceandthereservedorangesegmentsintoasmallpanwiththecastersugar.Heatoveramediumheattoreducetheliquidandmakeanorangesyrup.

TURNOUTTHEPUDDINGSandtopwiththeorangesegmentsandsyrup.Servewithcustardoricecream.

Tarterthanregularorangesandwithgloriousredflesh,bloodorangesmostlycomefromsouthernMediterraneancountries.InseasonfromDecemberto

March,theybringahintofsunshinetoourcoldwintermonths.

FiggypuddingCOOKINGTIME3HOURS

SERVES4–6

Butter,forgreasing120g(4oz)plainflourPinchofsalt120g(4oz)breadcrumbs120g(4oz)vegetablesuet1tspmixedspice

1tspbakingpowder90g(3oz)darksoftbrownsugar240g(8½oz)figs,choppedFinelygratedzestof1unwaxedlemon

2tbspmilk2eggs,beatenWarmedgoldensyrupandcustard,toserve

GREASEA1.1-LITRE(2-pint)puddingbasin.Sifttheflourandsalttogetherintoalargebowl,thenaddalltheremainingdryingredientsandmixtocombine.Addthefigs,lemonzestandjuice,milkandeggs,thenbeatwell.Themixtureshouldreachasoftdroppingconsistency.

POURTHEMIXTUREintothegreasedbasin,coversecurelywithalidorfoilandsteamfor3hours.Servewithwarmedgoldensyrupandcustard.

AmodernChristmaspuddingCOOKINGTIME15MINUTES

SERVES10

Butter,forgreasing90g(3oz)plainflour¼tspsalt90g(3oz)vegetablesuet½tspmixedspice¼tspgroundcinnamon45g(1½oz)breadcrumbs60g(2oz)castersugar60g(2oz)choppedmixedcandiedpeel60g(2oz)darksoftbrownsugar60g(2oz)glacécherries,chopped90g(3oz)currants90g(3oz)raisins

120g(4oz)sultanas45g(1½oz)blanchedalmonds,chopped30g(1oz)peeled,coredandchoppedcookingappleJuiceandfinelygratedzestof½unwaxedlemon2tspgoldensyrup2tspgravybrowning

4tbspbrandy2eggs,beaten

4tbspmilkBrandybutterorrichwhitebrandysauce,toserve

GREASEA1.7-LITRE(3-pint)puddingbasin.Sifttheflourandsalttogetherintoalargemixingbowl,thenaddallthedryingredientsonthelist,downtoandincludingtheappleandlemonzestandmixuntilcombined.Stirinalltheremainingingredientsandpourthepuddingmixtureintothegreasedbasin.

COVERSECURELYWITHALIDordoublelayerofgreaseproofpaper.Cookinan800W(orabove)microwaveontheHighsettingfor5minutes,leavetostandfor5minutes,thenrepeat.Servestraightawayorstoreinthefridgeuntilneededandreheatasdescribedbelow.Servewithbrandybutterorarichwhitebrandysauce.

TOREHEAT,REMOVETHEPUDDINGfromthebasinandsprinklewith1½teaspoons

ofwater.Coverwithclingfilmandcookinthemicrowavefor4minutes.Leavefor4minutes,thencookforafurther3minutes.

Wedevisedthis‘modern’Christmaspuddingspecificallysothatitcanbecookedinyourmicrowave.(Don’thaveamicrowave?Turntohereforthe

traditionalversion.)

OldHookyChristmaspuddingCOOKINGTIME1–1½HOURS

SERVES8–12

1.2kg(2½lb)mixeddriedfruit240g(8½oz)ready-soakedprunes,chopped240g(8½oz)breadcrumbs2largecookingapples,peeledandgrated60g(2oz)blanchedalmonds,chopped

1tspmixedspiceFinelygratedzestandjuiceof1unwaxedlemonand1orange240g(8½oz)softdarkbrownsugar120g(4oz)glacécherries1largecarrot,peeledandgrated120g(4oz)groundalmonds120g(4oz)plainflour½tspgroundcinnamon

½tspgroundnutmeg240g(8½oz)shreddedvegetablesuet

1tspsalt150–200ml(5–7floz)OldHookyorsimilardarkale1smallglassofbrandy(about50ml/2floz)3eggs,beaten

Butter,forgreasingBrandybutter,toserve

MIXTOGETHERALLTHEINGREDIENTSinalargemixingbowl,givethemagoodstirandleavetostand,covered,overnight.

THEFOLLOWINGDAY,greasetwo1.1-litre(2-pint)puddingbasinsandpourinthemixture,fillingthebasinsrighttothetop.Coversecurelywithlidsorfoilandsteamfor1–1½hours.Servewithbrandybutter.

Fansofrealalewilllovethisfestivepudding.OldHookyisafruity,full-bodiedbeerbrewedintheOxfordshirevillageofHookNorton.Ofcourseotherdarkalescanbeusedinstead,butyou’llhavetorenameyourpuddingaccordingly!

PlumduffCOOKINGTIME1–1½HOURS

SERVES4–6

150g(5oz)self-raisingflour,plusextraforsprinkling75g(3oz)shreddedsuet100g(3½oz)currants

100g(3½oz)raisins100g(3½oz)demerarasugarPinchofmixedspiceApprox.150ml(5floz)milkCustardormeltedjam,toserve

INALARGEBOWL,mixtogethertheflour,suet,currants,raisins,sugarandspice.Mixwithenoughmilktoformastiffdough.Soakacleanteatowelorpuddingclothinboilingwater,wringthenopenoutflatandsprinklewithalittleflour.Putthedoughintothecentreoftheflouredclothandtieuplikeafootball.

DROPTHEWRAPPEDDOUGHintoasaucepanofboilingwater,coverandboilfor1½hours,addingmorewatertothepanasnecessarysothatitdoesn’tboildry.Attheendofthecookingtime,removethepuddingfromthepanandunwrapcarefully.Servewithcustardormeltedjam.

Originallyknownas‘plumdough’,thisbeganlifeasaBritish‘streetfood’,soldfromcloth-coveredbasketsbystreetvendors’wives.Thesedays,peopleoftenwonderwhyplumduffcontainsnoplums,butbackinthe17thcentury,theword

wasusedtorefertoallmanneroffruits,includingraisinsandcurrants.

StNick’spuddingsCOOKINGTIME35–45MINUTES

MAKES6

170g(6oz)unsaltedbutter,softened,plusextraforgreasing170g(6oz)softlightbrownsugar3eggs,beaten

125g(4½oz)self-raisingflour140g(5oz)whitebreadcrumbs

1tspgroundcinnamonGratedzestof1orangeandjuiceof½40g(1½oz)choppedprunes190g(6½oz)choppedplums

3tbspgoldensyrupCustard,toserve

GREASESIX200ml(7FLOZ)PUDDINGBASINS.Inamixingbowl,creamtogetherthebutterandsugaruntilpaleandfluffy.Graduallyaddthebeateneggandstirtocombine–ifthemixtureseparates,juststirinalittleoftheflour.Foldintheremainingflour,breadcrumbsandcinnamonandmixwell.Addtheorangezest,juice,prunesand100g(3½oz)oftheplums.

PLACE15g(½OZ)OFTHEREMAININGPLUMSwith½tablespoonofthegoldensyrupinthebaseofeachgreasedbasin.Dividethespongemixevenlyamongthemandsealwithlidsorfoil.Steamfor35–45minutesuntilcooked,thenturnoutandservewithcustard.

AnicechangefromtheusualChristmaspud,thislighteralternativeisalsomuchquickertomakeas–unlikethetraditionalrecipe–itdoesn’tneedtobeleftfor

weekstomature.Definitelyoneforthosewho’velefttheirChristmaspreparationsuntilthelastminute!

ChristmaspuddingCOOKINGTIME6–10HOURS

SERVES12

1.2kg(2½lb)mixeddriedfruits240g(8½oz)ready-soakedprunes,chopped240g(8½oz)breadcrumbs2largecookingapples,peeled,choppedandgrated60g(2oz)blanchedalmonds,chopped

1tspmixedspiceFinelygratedzestandjuiceof1unwaxedlemonand1orange240g(8½oz)softdarkbrownsugar120g(4oz)glacécherries1largecarrot,peeledandgrated120g(4oz)groundalmonds120g(4oz)plainflour

½tspgroundcinnamon½tspgroundnutmeg240g(8½oz)vegetablesuet

1tspsalt220ml(8floz)stout(½regularcan)50ml(2floz)brandy3eggs,beatenButter,forgreasing

MIXTOGETHERALLTHEINGREDIENTSinalargebowl,stirwelltocombine,coverthebowlandleavetostandovernight.

THEFOLLOWINGDAY,greasetwo1.1-litre(2-pint)puddingbasinsorone2.3-litre(4-pint)basin.Pourthemixtureintothegreasedbasin(s),rightuptothetop.Coversecurelywithalidorfoilandsteamthesmallerpuddingsfor6hoursorthelargeronefor10hours.Servewithyourchoiceofaccompaniments(seehere).

WHYNOTTRY…?Christmaspuddingtakesalongtimetocook,somakeyourcelebrationsless

stressfulbycookingitinadvanceandsimplyreheatingwhenneeded.Toreheat,steamthesmallerpuddingsforabout1hour;thelargerfor2hours.Douseinrumorbrandy,setalightifyouwish,andservewithyourchoiceofbrandy

butter,whitesauce,custardorcream.

MincemeatrolypolyCOOKINGTIME1–1½HOURS

SERVES4–6

180g(6½oz)self-raisingflour,plusextrafordustingPinchofsalt90g(3oz)vegetablesuetFinelygratedzestof1unwaxedlemonMilk,tomix450g(1lb)mincemeat

PREHEATTHEOVENTO190°C(375°F),GasMark5.Sifttheflourandsalttogetherintoalargebowl,thenaddthesuet,lemonzestandenoughmilktomakeadough.Onaflouredsurface,rolloutthedoughtoabout25cm(10in)squareandspreadwiththemincemeat.DampentheedgesofthedoughwithwaterandrolluplikeaSwissroll.

PLACETHEROLYPOLYINAROASTINGTINandputintheoven,raisingonesideofthetinsothatthepuddingrollstooneend.Thiswillpreventitfromunravelling.Bakefor1hour.(Alternatively,wrapthepuddinginfoiltoholditsshapeandinclingfilmtomakeitwatertight.Steamfor1½hours,thencarefullyremovetheclingfilmandfoil.)Sprinklewiththesugarandservewithcustard.

MulledwinejellyCOOKINGTIME10MINUTES

SERVES6

1orange

1unwaxedlemon2slicesoffreshrootginger,peeled1smallcinnamonstick

2cloves200ml(7floz)port

1bottleoffruityredwine150g(5oz)granulatedsugar25g(1oz)gelatineleavesCrèmefraîche,toserve

FINELYPARETHEZESTfromtheorangeandlemonandplacethestripsinabowlwiththeginger,cinnamonandcloves.Squeezeintheorangeandlemonjuice,coverandleavetomacerateovernight.

THENEXTDAY,pourthemixtureintoalarge,stainless-steelsaucepanandaddtheport,wineandsugar.Heatgently,stirringoccasionally,untilthesugarhasdissolved.Themixtureshouldneverreachasimmer.Assoonasitispipinghot,removefromtheheat.

PLACETHEGELATINEINALARGEBOWL.Keeptheleaveslooseandslightlyseparatefromeachotherasyoupouronenoughcoldwatertocoverthem.Leavetosoakfor5minutes,thendrainoffthewater.Strainthehotwinethroughafinesieveontothesoftgelatineandstiruntilthegelatinehasdissolved.Leavetocool.

POURTHECOOLEDJELLYMIXTUREintoalargeglassdishorindividualglasses.

Chillinthefridgeovernightuntilset,thenservewithcrèmefraîche,flavouredifyouwish(seehere).

AfteraChristmaspartyoneyear,JillfromThePuddingClubwasleftwonderingwhattodowithasurplusofmulledwine.Shedecidedtotrymakingit

intoajellyandwasverypleasantlysurprisedbytheresults!WHYNOTTRY…?

Thisjellyisdivineservedwithcrèmefraîche,whichcanbeflavouredwithcalvados,orangeblossomwaterorCointreauforarefreshingfruitykick.

MincemeattartCOOKINGTIME55–65MINUTES

SERVES8–10

375g(13oz)shortcrustpastry(seehere)Flour,fordusting175g(6oz)unsaltedbutter,softened175g(6oz)castersugar

4eggs175g(6oz)groundalmonds

1tspalmondextract175g(6oz)mincemeat50g(2oz)flakedalmondsThickcream,toserve

ROLLOUTTHEPASTRYONAFLOUREDSURFACEanduseittolinea28cm(11in)flantin(seehere).Prickthebaseofthepastrywithafork.Chillthepastrycaseinthefridgefor10minutes,thenpreheattheovento190°C(375°F),GasMark5andblindbakethepastrycasefor25minutes(seehere).Removeandsetaside,leavingtheoventurnedon.

INAMIXINGBOWL,creamtogetherthebutterandsugaruntilpaleandfluffy.Beatintheeggsthenaddthegroundalmondsandalmondextract.Mixuntilfullyincorporated.Spreadthemincemeatevenlyinthecookedpastrycaseandtopwiththecreamedmixture.Bakefor30–40minutes,thensprinkletheflakedalmondsontothetartandputbackintheovenfor5minutes.Servewarmwiththickcream.

SpicedwinterfruitsaladCOOKINGTIME15MINUTES

SERVES6

600g(1lb5oz)mixeddriedfruit,includingapricots,pittedAgenprunes,pears,applesandfigs

3tbspgood-qualityclearhoney½tspmixedspice1vanillapod

1tbspfreshlemonjuiceGood-qualityvanillaicecreamorGreekyoghurt,toserve

PLACETHEDRIEDFRUITSintoalargesaucepanandcoverwith750ml(1pint6floz)coldwater.Leavetosoakfor2–3hours.

ADDTHEHONEYANDMIXEDSPICEtothepan.Splitthevanillapod,scrapetheseedsintotheliquorandalsoaddthepod.Mixwelltogether,thenbringtotheboilandsimmerfor15minutes.

REMOVETHEPANFROMTHEHEAT,fishoutthevanillapodanddiscard.Addthelemonjuiceandleavetoinfuse.Thefruitsaladcanbeservedwarmorlefttocool.ServewithvanillaicecreamorGreekyoghurt.

THREEWAYSHOUSEHOTEL,inthebeautifulcountrysideoftheNorthCotswolds,hasbeenthehomeofThePuddingClubsinceitwasfirstestablishedin1985.Pudding-loversfromallovertheworldhavevisitedustoenjoyapuddinginRandall’sBarBrasserie,thebuffetofpuddingsatSundaylunchintheaward-winningrestaurantortojoininthefunatauniquemeetingofThePuddingClubitself.Manychoosetostayovernightinoneofthesevenpudding-themedbedrooms;afterallwhereelsecouldyousleepinaboxofchocolatesorunderadrippingsyrupsponge?

OurmissionhasbeentopreservetheheritageofthegreatBritishpudding.Pleasecomealongtoenjoyapuddingortwoandhelpusinourwork:THREEWAYSHOUSEHOTELChapelLane,Mickleton,ChippingCampden,Gloucestershire,GL556SBTel:01386438429,Email:reception@puddingclub.comwww.puddingclub.comwww.threewayshousehotel.com

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSWEWOULDLIKETOTHANKeveryoneatThreeWaysHouseHotelfortheirenergyandenthusiasminmakingThePuddingClubtheworld-famousinstitutionitistodayandfortheirideasandrecipes,whichhelpedtocreatethisbook.Weareparticularlygratefultothequeenofpuddings,SheilaVincent,whohasmademanythousandsofdeliciouspuddingssince1995.ThankstootoHeadChefMarkandtoTom,Carl,Dan,RachelandPeter’swifeJanewhohaveallbeenabighelp.

ThankstootoSarahLavelle,Smith&Gilmour,IoneWalderandeveryoneatEbury.

SimonandJillCoombeandPeterHenderson,ThePuddingClub

This ebook is copyright material and must not be copied, reproduced, transferred, distributed, leased,licensed or publicly performed or used in any way except as specifically permitted in writing by thepublishers,asallowedunderthetermsandconditionsunderwhichitwaspurchasedorasstrictlypermittedbyapplicablecopyrightlaw.Anyunauthoriseddistributionoruseofthistextmaybeadirectinfringementoftheauthor’sandpublisher’srightsandthoseresponsiblemaybeliableinlawaccordingly.

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EpubISBN9781448148981

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ThePuddingClubhasasserteditsrighttobeidentifiedastheauthorofthisWorkinaccordancewiththeCopyright,DesignsandPatentsAct1988

Allrightsreserved.Nopartofthispublicationmaybereproduced,storedinaretrievalsystem,ortransmittedinanyformorbyanymeans,electronic,mechanical,photocopying,recordingorotherwise,withoutthepriorpermissionofthecopyrightownerTheRandomHouseGroupLimitedReg.No.954009

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ACIPcataloguerecordforthisbookisavailablefromtheBritishLibraryTobuybooksbyyourfavouriteauthorsandregisterforoffersvisitwww.randomhouse.co.uk

Photographer:DanJonesFoodstylist:AbiFawcett

Propsstylist:PollyWebb-WilsonDesignandartdirection:Smith&Gilmour,LondonCopyeditor:IoneWalderISBN9780091945428

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