innovative preservative solutions

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Preservative solutions in cosmetics

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Innovative Preservative Solutions

Dr. Matthias Kunze LANXESS Distribution GmbH

Barcelona, 16 April 2015

2

Innovative Preservative Solutions

Topics

Status of cosmetic preservation

Innovative paraben alternatives

1. paraben-free

2. preservative-free

3. renewable

Efficacy tests

− MIC data

− challenge tests

Bild/Grafik Größe:

Höhe = 13,06 cm Breite = 10,89 cm

3

Status of Cosmetic Preservation

Preservation Market Trends

paraben-free formulations

paraben-free claims

standard alternatives

Bild/Grafik Größe:

Höhe = 13,06 cm Breite = 10,89 cm

4

Status of Cosmetic Preservation Launches of skin care formulations containing parabens

SOURCE: MINTEL

⇒ phase out of parabens continues after stalling in 2013

5

Status of Cosmetic Preservation Launched skin care formulations claiming “free from parabens”

SOURCE: MINTEL

⇒ paraben-free claim still attractive

6

Status of Cosmetic Preservation Summary

Parabens under pressure

phase-out of parabens continues

“free from parabens” claim increasingly popular

Standard paraben alternatives

formaldehyde donors not preferred (banned in Japan)

isothiazolinones heavily restricted

⇒ strong need for new alternatives

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Innovative Preservative Solutions

Innovative Paraben Alternatives

1. paraben-free

2. preservative-free

3. renewable

Bild/Grafik Größe:

Höhe = 13,06 cm Breite = 10,89 cm

8

Innovative Paraben Alternatives 1. Paraben free: blend composition

Typical approach: phenoxyethanol + organic acids

organic acids cover weakness of phenoxyethanol vs. bacteria

organic acids require acidic environment

Solution: replacement of organic acids by triethylene glycol

good synergistic effect

suitable also for alkaline formulations up to pH 10

brand name: Solbrol® TP (INCI: Phenoxyethanol, Triethylene Glycol)

9

Innovative Paraben Alternatives 1. Paraben free: MIC data

0

0.2

0.4

0.6

0.8

1

1.2

P. aeruginosa S. aureus C. albicans A. niger

PhenoxyethanolSolbrol TP

Solbrol TP shows good performance against bacteria and fungi Solbrol TP is suitable for both acidic and alkaline environments

10

Innovative Paraben Alternatives 2. Preservative free: blend composition

Typical approach: caprylyl glycol

free from preservatives

weakness in particular against bacteria

difficult to handle due to high viscosity

Solution: combination with phenethyl alcohol

well balanced preservation effect

suitable also for alkaline formulations up to pH 10

brand name: Solbrol® CP (INCI: Caprylyl Glycol, Phenethyl Alcohol)

11

Innovative Paraben Alternatives 2. Preservative free: MIC data

0

0.2

0.4

0.6

0.8

1

1.2

1.4

P. aeruginosa S. aureus C. albicans A. niger

Caprylyl GlycolSolbrol CP

Solbrol CP is very effective also against bacteria Solbrol CP is suitable for both acidic and alkaline environments

12

Innovative Paraben Alternatives 3. Renewable: blend composition

Natural extracts: e.g. Bark extract from the white willow tree in propanediol

free from preservatives

ECOCERT certified

suitable for alkaline formulations up to pH 8

brand name: Solbrol® SP

INCI: Propanediol, Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract

13

Innovative Paraben Alternatives 3. Renewable: MIC data

0

0.2

0.4

0.6

0.8

1

P. aeruginosa S. aureus A. niger C. albicans

PropanediolSolbrol SP

Solbrol SP is very effective against bacteria Solbrol SP is suitable for both acidic and mild alkaline environments

> 6 > 6 2

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Innovative Preservative Solutions

Challenge Tests

shampoo

wet wipe formulation

benchmarked against paraben blend Solbrol Mix P Phenoxyethanol, Methyl-, Ethyl-, Propyl-, Butyl- and Isobutylparabenn

according to Ph. Eur. 7 - 5.1.3 “Efficacy of Antimicrobial Preservation”

Bild/Grafik Größe:

Höhe = 13,06 cm Breite = 10,89 cm

15

Challenge Test Results Shampoo Formulation

INGREDIENT % (weight)

Deionised water 57.0

Sodium Lauryl Sulphate 9.0

Propylene Glycol 5.0

Cocamidopropyl Betaine 1.4

C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 1.0

Sodium Hydroxide 0.5

pH = 6.7

16

Challenge Test Results Shampoo Formulation

criteria A achieved by Solbrol TP and Solbrol CP at 0.4 % Solbrol SP achieves criteria A at 0.8 %

paraben blend paraben free preservative free renewable

Solbrol type none Mix P TP CP SP

Concentration (%) 0.2 0.4 0.4 0.8 0.4 0.8 0.4 0.8

Pseudomonas aeruginosa

Staphylococcus aureus

Candida albicans

Aspergillus niger

criteria A criteria B fail

17

Challenge Test Results Wet Wipes

INGREDIENT % (weight)

Deionised Water 90.7

Glycerin 5.0

Propylene Glycol 2.0

Polysorbate 20 0.5

Cocamidopropyl Betaine 0.5

Aloe Barbadensis 0.2

Tocopheryl Acetate 0.1

30 g of solution on 10 g of cotton tissue pH = 6.0

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Challenge Test Results Wet Wipes

paraben blend paraben free preservative free renewable

Solbrol type none Mix P TP CP SP

Concentration (%) 0.3 0.5 0.5 1.0 0.5 1.0 0.5 1.0

Pseudomonas aeruginosa

Staphylococcus aureus

Candida albicans

Aspergillus niger

Solbrol CP achieves criteria B at 0.5 %, criteria A at 1 % Criteria B preservation achieved by Solbrol TP at 1 % Solbrol SP achieves criteria B at 1 %

criteria A criteria B fail

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Innovative Preservative Solutions Summary

Solbrol TP paraben-free blend

good alternative also for alkaline formulations (pH 10)

Solbrol CP preservative-free blend

high and well-balanced efficacy (up to pH 10)

Solbrol SP ECOCERT certified blend

especially active against bacteria, also works in mild alkaline environments (pH 8)

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