Innovative Preservative Solutions

Dr. Matthias Kunze LANXESS Distribution GmbH

Barcelona, 16 April 2015

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Innovative Preservative Solutions

Topics

Status of cosmetic preservation

Innovative paraben alternatives

1. paraben-free

2. preservative-free

3. renewable

Efficacy tests

− MIC data

− challenge tests

Bild/Grafik Größe:

Höhe = 13,06 cm Breite = 10,89 cm

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Status of Cosmetic Preservation

Preservation Market Trends

paraben-free formulations

paraben-free claims

standard alternatives

Bild/Grafik Größe:

Höhe = 13,06 cm Breite = 10,89 cm

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Status of Cosmetic Preservation Launches of skin care formulations containing parabens

SOURCE: MINTEL

⇒ phase out of parabens continues after stalling in 2013

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Status of Cosmetic Preservation Launched skin care formulations claiming “free from parabens”

SOURCE: MINTEL

⇒ paraben-free claim still attractive

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Status of Cosmetic Preservation Summary

Parabens under pressure

phase-out of parabens continues

“free from parabens” claim increasingly popular

Standard paraben alternatives

formaldehyde donors not preferred (banned in Japan)

isothiazolinones heavily restricted

⇒ strong need for new alternatives

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Innovative Preservative Solutions

Innovative Paraben Alternatives

1. paraben-free

2. preservative-free

3. renewable

Bild/Grafik Größe:

Höhe = 13,06 cm Breite = 10,89 cm

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Innovative Paraben Alternatives 1. Paraben free: blend composition

Typical approach: phenoxyethanol + organic acids

organic acids cover weakness of phenoxyethanol vs. bacteria

organic acids require acidic environment

Solution: replacement of organic acids by triethylene glycol

good synergistic effect

suitable also for alkaline formulations up to pH 10

brand name: Solbrol® TP (INCI: Phenoxyethanol, Triethylene Glycol)

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Innovative Paraben Alternatives 1. Paraben free: MIC data

0

0.2

0.4

0.6

0.8

1

1.2

P. aeruginosa S. aureus C. albicans A. niger

PhenoxyethanolSolbrol TP

Solbrol TP shows good performance against bacteria and fungi Solbrol TP is suitable for both acidic and alkaline environments

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Innovative Paraben Alternatives 2. Preservative free: blend composition

Typical approach: caprylyl glycol

free from preservatives

weakness in particular against bacteria

difficult to handle due to high viscosity

Solution: combination with phenethyl alcohol

well balanced preservation effect

suitable also for alkaline formulations up to pH 10

brand name: Solbrol® CP (INCI: Caprylyl Glycol, Phenethyl Alcohol)

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Innovative Paraben Alternatives 2. Preservative free: MIC data

0

0.2

0.4

0.6

0.8

1

1.2

1.4

P. aeruginosa S. aureus C. albicans A. niger

Caprylyl GlycolSolbrol CP

Solbrol CP is very effective also against bacteria Solbrol CP is suitable for both acidic and alkaline environments

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Innovative Paraben Alternatives 3. Renewable: blend composition

Natural extracts: e.g. Bark extract from the white willow tree in propanediol

free from preservatives

ECOCERT certified

suitable for alkaline formulations up to pH 8

brand name: Solbrol® SP

INCI: Propanediol, Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract

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Innovative Paraben Alternatives 3. Renewable: MIC data

0

0.2

0.4

0.6

0.8

1

P. aeruginosa S. aureus A. niger C. albicans

PropanediolSolbrol SP

Solbrol SP is very effective against bacteria Solbrol SP is suitable for both acidic and mild alkaline environments

> 6 > 6 2

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Innovative Preservative Solutions

Challenge Tests

shampoo

wet wipe formulation

benchmarked against paraben blend Solbrol Mix P Phenoxyethanol, Methyl-, Ethyl-, Propyl-, Butyl- and Isobutylparabenn

according to Ph. Eur. 7 - 5.1.3 “Efficacy of Antimicrobial Preservation”

Bild/Grafik Größe:

Höhe = 13,06 cm Breite = 10,89 cm

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Challenge Test Results Shampoo Formulation

INGREDIENT % (weight)

Deionised water 57.0

Sodium Lauryl Sulphate 9.0

Propylene Glycol 5.0

Cocamidopropyl Betaine 1.4

C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer 1.0

Sodium Hydroxide 0.5

pH = 6.7

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Challenge Test Results Shampoo Formulation

criteria A achieved by Solbrol TP and Solbrol CP at 0.4 % Solbrol SP achieves criteria A at 0.8 %

paraben blend paraben free preservative free renewable

Solbrol type none Mix P TP CP SP

Concentration (%) 0.2 0.4 0.4 0.8 0.4 0.8 0.4 0.8

Pseudomonas aeruginosa

Staphylococcus aureus

Candida albicans

Aspergillus niger

criteria A criteria B fail

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Challenge Test Results Wet Wipes

INGREDIENT % (weight)

Deionised Water 90.7

Glycerin 5.0

Propylene Glycol 2.0

Polysorbate 20 0.5

Cocamidopropyl Betaine 0.5

Aloe Barbadensis 0.2

Tocopheryl Acetate 0.1

30 g of solution on 10 g of cotton tissue pH = 6.0

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Challenge Test Results Wet Wipes

paraben blend paraben free preservative free renewable

Solbrol type none Mix P TP CP SP

Concentration (%) 0.3 0.5 0.5 1.0 0.5 1.0 0.5 1.0

Pseudomonas aeruginosa

Staphylococcus aureus

Candida albicans

Aspergillus niger

Solbrol CP achieves criteria B at 0.5 %, criteria A at 1 % Criteria B preservation achieved by Solbrol TP at 1 % Solbrol SP achieves criteria B at 1 %

criteria A criteria B fail

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Innovative Preservative Solutions Summary

Solbrol TP paraben-free blend

good alternative also for alkaline formulations (pH 10)

Solbrol CP preservative-free blend

high and well-balanced efficacy (up to pH 10)

Solbrol SP ECOCERT certified blend

especially active against bacteria, also works in mild alkaline environments (pH 8)

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