mastey hair color certification - advanced formulations

MASTEY TEINTUREColor Formulations

THERE ARE PLENTY OF WRONG FORMULAS

THERE IS NO RIGHT FORMULA

DIFFERENT PEOPLEDifferent Formulas

CONSULTATION

NATURAL LEVEL => DESIRED LEVEL

RPC =% GRAY = NEEDED LIFT =ADDITIONAL TONE=

RPC = RED% GRAY = 25%NEEDED LIFT = 3 LEVELSADDITIONAL TONE= PURPLE

Mastey Hair Color Is Not Matte Or Translucent It Is Reflective Color Like Natural Hair Color

LEVELSNatural Hair Levels

As level rises so does alkalinity

Water Conditioners Alkaline Agent Pigment

LEVEL 6 WILL LIFT MORE THAN A LEVEL 5

MORE LIFT = MORE RPC

As level rises amount of Pigment Decreases

Water Conditioners Alkaline Agent Pigment

LEVEL 9 HAS MORE PIGMENT THAN A LEVEL 11

MORE PIGMENT = BETTER COVERAGE & TONING

60 VOLUME HAS MORE LIFTTHAN 10 VOLUME

10 VOLUME DEPOSITS BETTER THAN 60 VOLUME

REMAINING PIGMENT

% OF GRAY

DESIRED TONAL VALUE

NATURAL LEVEL => DESIRED LEVEL

RPC =% GRAY = NEEDED LIFT =ADDITIONAL TONE=

RPC = RED% GRAY = 25%NEEDED LIFT = 3 LEVELSADDITIONAL TONE= PURPLE

Tones & Bases24 pre mixed tonal options

Color TonesNumbers Letters & Words

AMPLIFIERSOxidative Tints

07 => COOL NEUTRAL + BLUEUsed to enhance darker shades or neutralize lighter shades

37 => YELLOW + BLUE = GREENUsed to neutralize REDS AND ORANGES

22 => VIOLET + VIOLETUsed to enhance dark shades or neutralize yellows in light shades

44 => COPPER + COPPERUsed to enhance or introduce coper into a shade

64 => RED + COPPERUsed to enhance or introduce red copper into a shade

66 => RED + REDUsed to enhance or introduce red into a shade

67 => RED + BLUEUsed to enhance or introduce red cherry into a shade

33 => GOLD + GOLDUsed to enhance or introduce gold into a shade

How to use Amplifiers

✤ For Vibrancy

✤ For Toning

How much do I use

✤ 7/8 Base Shade + 1/8 Amplifier = Toning While Lifting

✤ 3/4 Base Shade + 1/4 Amplifier = More Depth + Little Tone

✤ 1/2 Base Shade + 1/2 Amplifier = More Tone + Less Depth

✤ 1/4 Base Shade + 3/4 Amplifier = Mostly Tone + Little Depth

When Should I use Amplifiers

✤ Depositing => To add tone

✤ Lifting 1 Level=> minimal RPC / add to enhance tone

✤ Lifting 2 Levels => RPC Medium / Use to enhance or counteract

✤ Lifting 3 + Levels => RPC Lots / Use to enhance or counteract

Color Formulations for Vibrancy

✤ Black & Dark Browns ✤ Use 07 or 22 to add a Blue or Violet tone to your blacks. this gives

you a more beautiful richer black as opposed to a flat black.

✤ 1 part 1.07 + 1 part 07 + 10 Volume

✤ 1 part 1.07 + 1 part 22 + 10 Volume

Color Formulations for Vibrancy

✤ Reds ✤ Use 64, 66 and 67 with red shades to add intensity to existing red

shades

✤ Use higher levels of peroxide to expose more underlying pigment and use that to intensify a result.

✤ 1 part 7.6 + 1 part 66 + 30 Volume + HEAT (optional)

Color Formulations for Vibrancy

✤ Coppers ✤ Use 44 and 64 with copper shades to create richer brighter copper

results.

✤ Use higher levels of peroxide to expose more underlying pigment and use that natural remaining pigment to enhance the copper result.

✤ 1 part 8.64 + 1 part 64 + 30 Volume + HEAT (optional)

Color Formulations for Toning

✤ When Lifting ✤ Adding 37 green, 22 violet or 07 blue, or a combination of them

into a formula, can help you to counteract underlying pigment as you are lifting.

Classic Formulation: Highlights

✤ On Levels 6 and bellow: ✤ Add 37 Green amplifier to your lifting formula

✤ 11.2 + 37 + 60 Volume

Classic Formulation: Highlights

✤ On Levels 7 and higher: ✤ Add 07 BLUE Amplifier to your lifting formula 

✤ 11.2 + 07 + 60 Volume

✤ For more control ✤ Mix 07 and 37 to create a more blue green when counteracting.

✤ Others like Violet pigment so they use 22 instead of 07 or a mixture of 07 & 22 in their high lift formulas.

Classic Formulation: Highlights

AMPLIFIERS

✤ For best results use with a base tone that already has the desired tone: 4.6 + 66

✤ The more amplifier you put into a formula the more it affects the lift of the shade in that formula

✤ 11.2 + 07 lifts less than just using 11.2

PERCENTAGES MAKE A DIFFERENCE

• 1 1/2 oz of 6.6 + 1/2 oz of 66• IS NOT EQUAL TO

• 1/2 oz of 6.6 + 1/1/2 oz of 66

SIMPLE FORMULATION BREAKDOWN

• 4.3 => 4.0 + 33

SIMPLE FORMULATION BREAKDOWN

• The more 33 you add the more gold in your formula

• The more gold the more warmth you create.

• To add more warmth or gold to a level 4 gold (4.3):

•4.3 + 33

TRICKIER FORMULATION BREAKDOWN

• 4.65 = 4.6 + 4.5

• or

• 4.65 = 4.6 + 33 + 22 + 66

ADDING MORE VIOLET TO 4.65

• 4.65 + 22

COLOR FORMULATIONIt’s Like Cooking!

NEUTRAL = BROWNBlue + Red + Yellow = Brown

NEUTRAL = BROWNOrange + Purple + Green = Brown

YOU ARE ALWAYS MAKING BROWN!

• Make Brown then Add Tone

STARTING LEVEL => DESIRED LEVEL

FORMULALEVEL 4.010 VOLUMEAMPLIFIER: NONE

START LEVEL: 5DESIRED LEVEL: 4RPC = NONE% GRAY = 0%NEEDED LIFT = 0 LEVELSADDITIONAL TONE= NONE

STARTING LEVEL => DESIRED LEVEL

FORMULALEVEL 3.010 VOLUMEAMPLIFIER: 07 + 22

START LEVEL: 5DESIRED LEVEL: 3RPC = NONE% GRAY = 0%NEEDED LIFT = 0 LEVELSADDITIONAL TONE= BLUE/PURPLE

STARTING LEVEL => DESIRED LEVEL

FORMULALEVEL 6.56TO HELP GRAY: 6.320 OR 30 VOLUMEAMPLIFIER: 67

START LEVEL: 4DESIRED LEVEL: 6RPC = RED% GRAY = 25%NEEDED LIFT = 3 LEVELSADDITIONAL TONE= PURPLE

STARTING LEVEL => DESIRED LEVEL

FORMULALEVEL 8.030 OR 40 VOLUMEAMPLIFIER: 07 OR 07 +22OR 07+37

START LEVEL:5DESIRED LEVEL: 8RPC = YELLOW/ORANGE% GRAY = 0%NEEDED LIFT = 3 LEVELSADDITIONAL TONE= NEUTRAL

STARTING LEVEL => DESIRED LEVEL

FORMULALEVEL 11.260 VOLUMEAMPLIFIER: 07 OR 07 +22OR 07+37TONE WITH 9.2 DEMI

START LEVEL:7DESIRED LEVEL: 11RPC = YELLOW% GRAY = 0%NEEDED LIFT = 4 LEVELSADDITIONAL TONE= PLATINUM

How Long Will Color Last

✤ Depends on:

✤ Porosity

✤ Dryness

✤ Contact Duration

✤ Shampoo Habits

✤ Color Darkness

✤ Type of Color Formula

GLOSS / GLAZESEMIDEMI

PERMANENT

CUSTOMER TYPE = FORMULA TYPE

Advance Color FormulasUsing Oxidative & Acidic Dyes

Refreshing Faded EndsUse remaining color in bowl and add Color Instantane to pull through

Use instead of a shampoo cap or pulling through straight color

Doubling Your Pigment

✤ Normal Formula

✤ 2 oz 5.34 Teinture

✤ 2 oz 20 Volume

✤ Double Pigment Formula

✤ 2 oz 5.34 Teinture

✤ 1 oz 40 Volume

✤ 1 oz 5.34 Instantane

TINT BACKSFrom Bleached Blonde Back to Brown

Date

Date

Demi Permanent2 oz Instantane + 1oz 20 Volume + 1oz Teinture

Use instead of progressive demi products like shades

Semi Permanent2 oz Instantane + 1oz 10 Volume + 1oz Teinture

Lasts about 6-8 shampoos

Text

Types of Toners

✤ Use amplifiers in your formula to tone as you lift.

✤ Mastey Color Shampoo

✤ Instantane as a toner by itself

✤ Toner Formula

Toner Formula = SEMI2 oz Instantane + 1oz 10 Volume + 1oz Teinture

Lasts about 6-8 shampoos

Gloss or GlazeGloss is a clear shine / Glaze is a gloss tinted with a tone

GlossApply to hair after color, Process 10 Minutes, Shampoo

Glaze1oz Clear Gloss + 1oz of desired tone in Instantane

CG + 5.73 Instantane => Toasted Hazelnut Glaze, Same Process procedure as Gloss

PUTTING IT ALL TOGETHER

From Color Creation to Final Look

KATY PERRYCreate a beautiful tone over black to dark brown hair 1.07 + 07 OR 1.07 + 22

DUCHESS OF CAMBRIDGEDark Hair with Glimmers of Golden Light11.2 + 07 OR 11.2 + 37 Both with 60 Volume

ANN HATHAWAYCreating Root Beer6.3 + 4.65

EMMA STONEFormula 1: 6.64 + 6.3Formula 2: 7.43 Glaze Formula

JENNIFER ANISTONFormula 1: 7.1 + 20 VolumeFormula 2: 6.23 + 10 VolumeFormula 3: 11.2 + 60 Volume

JENNIFER LOPEZFormula 1: 8.1 + 37 + 30 VolumeFormula 2: 11.2 + 07 + 60 VolumeFormula 3: 7.4 + 9.3 + 20 VolumeFormula 4: 7.9 + 10 VolumeFormula 5: 11.2 + 10.2 Glaze

10 FORMULA CONVERSIONS

• Pick 10 of your existing formulas

• Pick a part of each formula you would like to enhance

• Enhance them some how using the techniques you have learned. Add a tone, a glaze or double pigment...

10 CELEBRITY FORMULAS

• Pick 10 celebrities

• Grab a picture of their look from google images.

• Tell us how you would achieve that look on your model.

• Each models starting level is either a level 4, 5, or 6

• These looks should be more than 1 single color, they should use the techniques and formulations you have learned in your training.