an overview of twill weave

8/18/2019 An Overview of Twill Weave

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An Overview of Twill Weave

Written by: Md. Rubel Miah

Twill Weave:

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2. #ifference between warp and weft count.

. 0ate of advancement it interlacement warp and weft.

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Classification of Twill Weave:

1. ccording to direction of twill line on the faced of fabric.

2. ccording this aspect there are two type of twill weave namely.

• + *twill" #own word displacement of twill line from upper left to lowerright corner.

• )* twill" 2pward displacement of twill line from lower left to upper rightcorner.

. ccording to faced yarn" there are three type of twill weave according to faced yarn namely"

• 3arp faced twill" or e!ample twill.

• 3eft faced twill" or e!ample twill.

• alanced twill" or e!ample twill.


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!. ccording to nature and twill line" There are there type of twill weaves

• +ample warp or weft twill" It every warp thread passes under only one weft calledsimple warp twill. or e!ample , twill are simple are warp twill again it every weftthread passes over only one warp thread in twill weave, that is called simple wefttwill. or e!ample, twill is simple weft twill.

• !pended twill" There is no one up or one down in this type of twill.

• Multiple twill" If in a fabric there are more than one twill line in the repeat, it iscalled multiple twill.

Factor Affecting the Prominence of Twill Weave:

The following factor affecting the prominence of twill weaves

1. eature of weave

• The prominence of twill line on feature of weave in the following ways6

• The twill of short floats less prominent twill line.

• The twill line of long float more prominent.

2. 7haracteristic of yarn"


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• Twill off course and soft twisted yarn more prominent twill line.

Twill of fine and more twisted yarn less prominent twill line.

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1. Thread per inch $T1I("

More number of ends or picks per inch causes more prominent twill line.

2. #irection of twill line in relation to yarn twist direction"

3hen direction of twill on fabric is opposite to the direction of twist in yarn the twill line becomes more prominent and vice*versa.

Derivatives of Twill Weave:

There are many derivatives of twill are given bellow6

• roken twill

• 7ombined twill

• #iamond design

• #iaper design

• #iagonal design

• longated design


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• 8earing bone twill

• +haded twill

• +tepped twill

• )igzag&waved&pointed twill weave

Zigzag/waved/pointed Twill Weave:

It is the simplest and one of the most important modifications of twill weave produced by reversing the direction of twill at suitable interval

point is selected $usually the last warp is selected( as the reversing point and so it issometime call as point twill. In this twill pointed or straight draft is used.

This twill is produced by combining + and ) twist. ccording to reversing of directionthere are two type of zigzag twill"

• Horizontal zigzag twill: 3hen the reversal direction of twill line occur upon the warp yarn, it result horizontal zigzag twill. 8ere the basic twill is e!tended in warp direction. 8ere the number of warp yarn in a repeat is double of the numberof weft. In horizontal zigzag twill pointeddraft is used.

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ten by: Md. Rubel Miah

• Vertical zigzag twill: 3hen the reversal direction of twill line occur upon the weft yarn, it result vertical zigzag twill. 8ere the basic twill is e!tended in weft


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direction. 8ere the number of weft yarn in a repeat is double of the number of warp. In 9ertical zigzag twill straightdraft is used.

earing !one Twill:

This twill is contracted in a different manner from the ordinary zigzag twill. Though italso depend on reversal of twill direction

8ere reversal direction occurs after a middle line. 8ere at first the basic twill is drown

then the number of central point is selected in zigzag twill. 0ather in e!tended secondhalf of basic twill the following matter happened.

• The floating point of first half become down in second half.

• The down of first half become floating in second half.

In hearing bone twill straight draft is used. There are two type of hearing bone design

• Horizontal hearing bone twill " 3hen hearing bone twill is created by e!tendingthe basic twill in warp direction, horizontal hearing bone result in


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• Vertical hearing bone twill " 3hen hearing bone twill is created by e!tending the basic twill in weft direction, horizontal hearing bone result in


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Diamond Design:

It is derivatives of twill weave. It constructed on the bans of zigzag twill principle. It isobtain by combining horizontal and vertical zigzag twill. +o here in the repeat thenumber of both warp and weft thread are double then that in basic twill. #iamonddesign geometrical about there vertical and horizontal a!is. In this weave pointed draftis obtained.

To contract a diamond design at first the design repeat is selected. It the basic twill is %

up % down, that is :: in size, the repeat of design will be ';'; in size.

Uses" Towel, ed cover, Table cloth, 1illow cover etc.


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Diaper Design:

This derivative of twill weave is created on the basis herring bone principle. This design

is constructed by combining horizontal and vertical hearing bone twill.

In the repeat of a diaper design the number of warp and weft threads is two types morethan that in its basic twill. +o if the basic twill size is


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roken twill can be of way and increase of broken twill straight and broken draft is used.

#longated Twill:

The twill angle from in cloth depend upon,

1. The relative ratio of ends and pick per unit length.

2. The rate of advancement of one interlacing with respect to the following one.

=ormally the twill angle is 45 degree where the end and pick per unit area are eual.utin elongated twill, the twill angle more or less than 45 degree any twill design withouttwill angle.

#longated twill can $e formed in two different wa%s:

1. 3ith the help of step number"

If the step number of elongated twill is two, then by taking only odd number of warp thread from the basictwill here the warp number in step twill will be eualto the basic twill.

2. y selecting stasting of elongated twill with a base line"


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• 3arp way steppet twill" 8ere stepping is done in warp way.

• 3eft way steppet twill" 8ere stepping is done in weft way.


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&haded Twill:

y shaded twill we can create shade effect on fabric the shade effect is created by thecombination some thick to thin twills or thin to thick twills.

The shaded twill is of following type,

• Single shaded twill: 8ere the shade effect become thick form thin once after being thick it again starting to be thin and thus complete the whole repeat. ore!ample

• #ouble shaded twill" 8ere the shade starts form thin to think and again it becomethin.


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'ses of Twill Weave:

Twill weave are e!tensively used in manufacturing cloth for garments household clothand industrial cloth.

1. -enerally diamond, diaper and zigzag twill are used for making pillow, cover,

screen, upholstery, bed sheet, towel etc.

2. 7ontinuous twill is used for making fabric for shirting, suiting and pantin $denim,gaverdine(.

. or making various type of ornamental cloth, other derivatives of twill weave areused.

!. 8earing bone twill is used in the cloth of suiting and overcoats.

(mage Courtes%:

1. favonius.com

This article was originally published in Textile learner blog run by Mazharul Islam Kiron.


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an overview of twill weave

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