1

Stefan Bänziger, PhD

Anti-Ageing Trends Markets, Targets, Ingredients

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Anti-Ageing Trends Contents

RAHN

Market Data (Facial Care)

Trends

Conclusion

3 3

About RAHN

4 4

Business Areas

EnergyCuring

Globally active in

development and sales of

high-perfomance raw

materials for radiation curing.

Cosmetics

Global sales of high-quality

raw materials and active

ingredients for innovative

cosmetics applications.

Scent & Taste

Innovative fragrance and

aroma compositions and

selected raw materials for the

food industry.

5 5

Products and Services

We offer our customers solutions with real added value thanks to many years of experience

in cosmetics development and extensive expertise in sales and consulting.

Products

RAHN-Cosmetic Actives / Active ingredients

Antioxidants Emulsifiers Peeling agents

Plant extracts Gelling

agents/hydrocolloids Eye catcher beads

Emollients Surfactants

Laboratory activities and product development

Supervision and support of customer projects

Product and laboratory training for customers and suppliers

Creation of cutting-edge formulations

Integration of our raw material suppliers’ product ranges

Development of further applications

Development of additional active ingredient concepts

Services

Professional consulting

Efficient customer service

Quick and easy raw material

sampling

Customised solutions

Trainings for customers and sales

Strong international sales and

distribution network

Implementation of latest

regulations, safety aspects

Up-to-date, comprehensive product

documentation

6 6

Market Data

7 7

Global Market Facial Care

/ Mintel

8 8

European Market Facial Care

/ Mintel

9 9

Global Market Facial Care: Top 10 Claims by Region

Global Asia Pacific Europe Latin America North America

Botanical/Herbal Botanical/Herbal Botanical/Herbal Botanical/Herbal Botanical/Herbal

Moisturising / Hydrating Moisturising / Hydrating Moisturising / Hydrating Moisturising / Hydrating Moisturising / Hydrating

Vitamin/Mineral Fortified Vitamin/Mineral Fortified Dermatologically Tested Dermatologically Tested Ethical - Animal

Dermatologically Tested Long-Lasting Long-Lasting Vitamin/Mineral Fortified Vitamin/Mineral Fortified

Long-Lasting Brightening / Illuminating Vitamin/Mineral Fortified Long-Lasting Long-Lasting

Ethical - Animal Time/Speed Brightening / Illuminating Time/Speed Brightening /

Illuminating*

Brightening / Illuminating Whitening Ethical - Animal Male Seasonal

Time/Speed Ethical - Animal Time/Speed Brightening / Illuminating Paraben Free

Male UV Protection No Additives/

Preservatives Damaged Hair Time/Speed

No Additives/

Preservatives Dermatologically Tested Organic Female Dermatologically Tested

/ Mintel

10 10

Global Market Facial Care: Top 5 Claims by Sub-Category

81%

11%

8%

1%

/ Mintel

11

Trends

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Executive Summary

1) Consumers are more wary of what they buy and

therefore are demanding more information about a

product’s ingredients, provenance, manufacturing

process and safety testing.

• Natural / Sourcing can be an important issue

• Free-from marketing is on the rise

• Sun care and sensitive skin are gaining

importance

2) The market becomes more segmented and expands

to new categories and claims

• Tapping into niches

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PIF

Safety Assessment

Exposure

NOAEL

MoS

Trend 1: Awareness More and more Date are Required

• Nanomaterials (Art 16/19)

• Declaration of subsidiary technical

material (Art 19)

• Animal Experiments (Art 11)

• Safety Assement (Annex 1)

• Impurities (Annex 1)

• Claim Substantiation (Art 20)

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Trend 1: Awareness

• Natural products are preferred

Botanicals are extensively used for

natural touch

exotic touch

anti-ageing properties

product seems safer

Consumer Driven

15 15

Trend 1: Awareness Sustained Management of Natural Resources

/ Mintel

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CELLIGENT®

Ethyl Ferulate + Carnosolic Acid + UMP

Uridine Monophosphate (UMP) is

isolated from sugar molasses obtained

during sugar manufacturing.

Trend 1: Awareness Sustained Sourcing / Provenance

SLIMEXIR®

X-Melt® + Artichoke extract + Levan

The Artichoke extract is obtained

from the stock of artichokes which

are used in the food industry.

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• „Natural“ products are preferred

• Animal experiments are cruel

Trend 1: Awareness Consumer Driven

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• „Natural“ products are preferred

• Animal experiments are cruel

• Preservatives are dangerous

• Nanomaterials are harmful

• Sun exposure threatens the skin

• Sensitive Skin

Trend 1: Awareness Consumer Driven

/ New England Journal of Medicine; April 2012

Free from

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Basic formulations when applied to skin and exposed to UV-light, often induce harmful ROS

• The application of cosmetic

products leads to increased

photosensitivity of the skin

/ Jung K. et Bänziger S., HPC Today, Vol. 8(2) March/April 2013

20 20

CELLIGENT®

Intelligent Skin Protection

Efficacy data

• Effective cell and DNA protection

during solar irradiation (in-vitro study)

• Stem Cell protection (in-vitro study)

• Rapid regeneration of UV-related cell

and DNA damage (in-vivo erythema study)

• „After Sun Rescue Treatment” (user test)

• Protects skin and cosmetic products against

formulation-induced ROS formation (ex-vivo study)

Ethyl Ferulate

Carnosolic acid UMP

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CELLIGENT® completely reduces the detrimental pro-oxidative effect of basic formulations

• The application of cosmetic

products leads to increased

photosensitivity of the skin

• CELLIGENT® protects the skin

from free radicals and neutralises

undesired side effects provoked

by cosmetic products

• Improved photo-resistance of the

skin

/ Jung K. et Bänziger S., HPC Today, Vol. 8(2) March/April 2013

22 22

Trend 1: Awareness – Sensitive Skin DEFENSIL-PLUS® - natural skin care for conscious consumers

Sensitive skin: hyper-reactive, easily-irritable

Occurence : 60% of women / 40% of men

35% of UK women are looking for products , designed f

or sensitive skin, but only 14% of EU-launches are so

→ potential for growth and NPD

DEFENSIL-PLUS® :

Eases symptomes AND improves quality of life

Free from preservatives, perfumes, colorants, PEG’s,,…

Pure Natural Power!

23 23

Trend 2: Segmentation

Exploring New Consumer Groups

MILLENNIALS

17-34 years old

GENERATION X 35-46 years old

GENERATION NEXT <16

BABY BOOMERS 47-65 years old

SENIORS 65+

24 24 / Minte Oxygen, Food and Drink Packaging Trends – UK January 2012

Packaging factors influencing choice

of food and drink

“Attractive”

Trend 2: Segmentation - Millenials Design aware / Digital natives

0%

5%

10%

15%

20%

25%

30%

All 16-24 25-34 35-44 45-54 55+

0%

10%

20%

30%

40%

50%

60%

70%

All 16-24 25-34 35-44 45-54 55+

Agreement with statements on alcoholic

drink packaging

“Eye catching”

25 25 / Mintel Oxygen, Marketing to Millennials – US – August 2012

Opinions about saving and spending money

“I will sometimes buy luxury items that I cannot afford to keep up to date.”

Seeking Luxury

0%

5%

10%

15%

20%

25%

30%

All Millennials Gen X Baby Boomers Seniors

Trend 2: Segmentation - Millenials

26 26 / Mintel Oxygen, Attitudes Towards Corporate Social Responsibility – US – September 2012

In the past six months, have you chosen to purchase a particular product

(instead of a similar product) based on any of the following?

Trend 2: Segmentation - Millenials Socially Responsible

0% 10% 20% 30% 40%

Made by employees who are compensated fairly

Fair trade

Improves the lives of others

Not tested on animals

Donates a portion of its profits to a charity

Produced locally

Environmentally friendly

Energy efficient

Millennials All

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Delayed adolescence

Protection / Early prevention line

Socially responsible

Organic ingredients

Design aware / Luxury seeking

Appropriate packaging

Digital natives

”Prep-App”

Skin Care for Millennials

Join

us!

CELLACTIVE®-HYDRO and you can dance all night long!

28 28

Trend 2: Segmentation - Men Still the customers of tomorrow?

/ Mintel Facial Skincare – US – May 2012

• 17% of men use facial cleansers or

medicated products (vs 57% of

women

• Compared to 40% of male

teenagers → once men have dealt

with teenage acne, companies

struggle to retain these consumers

• Information to choose products

comes from friend/family (30%), TV

(20%), and None of the above

(50%) → low level of interaction

with facial care products that

needs to be boosted

Multifunctional – Cleansing

Moisturising

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Skinkeeper – Targeting Golfers RADICARE® - the hole-in-one for your Skin

NE

W!

Overall ROS-Protection!

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Conclusions

• Hydrating formulations and plant-based

ingredients are an integral part of facial care,

present in 6/10 new launches in 2012

• Botanicals are selected for their anti-ageing

properties or to add a natural or exotic touch or

to make the products feel safer.

Provenance might become more important

• Consumers are more wary of what they buy and

the European market for facial care is very much

about safety

• Free-from marketing is on the rise

• High level of launches for sensitive skin

Moisturising

Botanical / Herbal / Natural

Safety

Free From

Sensitive Skin

UV-Protection

Millenials

Men

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Conclusions

• Consumers lernt that UV-protection is

important;

However, the industry is not yet fully

aware that basic formulations might

increase photosensitivity

• There is inceased segementation and expansion

into new categories and claims .

E.g. Milenials / Men’s care

Moisturising

Botanical / Herbal

Safety

Free From

Sensitive Skin

UV-Protection

Millenials

Men

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THANK YOU FOR YOUR ATTENTION

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Presentation Phytoark 10/13

Utilisation of this document or parts thereof as well as product names for commercial or industrial

applications is subject to explicit written approval by RAHN AG. This information is based on our own

experience to date and we believe it to be reliable. It is intended only as a guide to use at your discretion

and risk. We cannot guarantee favourable results and assume no liability in connection with its use, or

the use of the methods or products described. None of this information is to be taken as a license to

operate under, or a recommendation to infringe patents.