antioxidants -...
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Antioxidants Tomorrow’s vision...Today!®
Introduction.................................................................................................................................................................3Mitochondrial Theory of Aging..................................................................................................................................................4Free Radical Damage.....................................................................................................................................................................5Enzymatic Antioxidants................................................................................................................................................................6 Product Recommendations...............................................................................................................................................7Non-Enzymatic Antioxidants......................................................................................................................................................8 Product Recommenations.................................................................................................................................................9Polyphenols......................................................................................................................................................................................10 Product Recommendations............................................................................................................................................11Sample Formulations..................................................................................................................................................................12 Pollution Protection Moisture Cream...........................................................................................................................13 Revitalizing Antioxidant Face Mask..............................................................................................................................14References.........................................................................................................................................................................15
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Table of Contents
Introduction
It is impossible to stop aging, but it is possible to slow down the signs of aging. Antioxidants are the key players in defending against aging skin. They protect, prevent and even reverse signs of aging, while establishing a well-balanced environment for a healthy skin metabolism.
Oxidative stress is one of the main reasons why lines and wrinkles appear on the skin along with many other skin issues. The process of oxidation occurs constantly in nature. Even in strong metals, such as iron, oxidation leads to rusting and loss of strength if the metal is not covered with a protective coating. Similarly, oxidative stress causes damage to the skin’s vital components.1 This process is often defined as harmful because the oxygen free radicals attack biological molecules such as proteins, lipids and DNA, causing irreversible damage. These oxidants are reactive oxygen species (ROS) commonly produced by intrinsic essential processes, and boosted by extrinsic contributing factors, including x-rays, ozone, cigarette smoke, air and industrial pollutants. Oxidative stress occurs when number free radicals exceed the amount of antioxidants. However, ROS are not always bad! They enable inter-and intracellular signaling, and induce a multitude of cellular responses depending on their concentration, subcellular localization and lifetime.
From a human perspective, too much of anything is bad! A balance between oxidants and antioxidants is necessary for a proper functioning system. As illustrated in Figure 1, oxidative stress occurs when the concentration of reactive oxygen species and free radicals exceed the amount of antioxidants in the metabolism.
Figure 1: Significant imbalance leads to oxidative stress.
Mitochondrial Theory of Aging
Figure 2: ROS formation in the ETC.
Oxidative stress triggers damage that leads to aging, yet a common misconception is that the largest threat of oxidative stress is our environment. The latest anti-aging research indicates that our mitochondria are the primary source of oxidation that contributes to aging.2
Oxidative phosphorylation is the metabolic process that fuels the production of Adenosine Triphosphate (ATP), the major source of energy for our cells. This pathway, also referred to as the electron transport system, transfers electrons from electron donors to electron acceptors (oxygen). This is analogous to a bowling ball rolling down a case of stairs that generates energy each time it hits a step. These redox reactions are carried out by a series of five mitochondrial protein complexes collectively referred to as the electron transport chain (Figure 2). As the electrons are passed throughout the chain, energy is generated that is used to make ATP.2
Normally, oxygen, the final electron acceptor, is reduced to water. However, leakages occur in the system that generates the formation of damaging oxy, hydroxyl and superoxide radicals instead of water. Given the intricate structure of mitochondria and their proximity to the toxins that are produced, mitochondria along with mitochondrial DNA (mtDNA) are the most vulnerable and susceptible to damage. In fact, ROS produced by mitochondria pose more of a risk and trigger aging more than environmental ROS.2
ROS is a general term used to describe reactive molecules and free radicals. Generally, highly damaging ROS are hydroxyl radicals, superoxide anion radical, hydrogen peroxide radical, oxygen singlet, hypochlorite, nitric oxide radical, and peroxynitrite radicals. Oxygen containing free radicals are considered to be the most damaging due to the high relative energy of molecules and the number of unpaired electrons. These ROS cause irreversible damage to main biological components such as proteins, lipids and nucleic acids. As shown in Figure 3, continuous free radical damage leads to oxidative stress and cell death.
Free Radical Damage
Figure 3: Free Radical Attack
Mitochondrial DNA is the most susceptible to damage due to the proximity of oxy radicals in the mitochondrial membrane. Oxidative damage to nucleic acids, such as DNA and RNA, cause permanent changes in the genetic material. The constant replication of modified DNA leads to the accumulation of damaged cells resulting in aging.3
Protein oxidation commonly involves peroxyl radical damage to specific amino acid sequences, free radical mediated peptide cleavage, and the formation of protein cross-linkage.3 Protein oxidation affects the alteration of the signal transduction mechanism, enzyme activity, heat stability, and proteolysis susceptibility, which leads to cellular aging.
Lipid peroxidation occurs in polysaturated fatty acids located in cellular membranes. Hydroxyl radicals are involved in the initiation of lipid peroxidation, which propagates through a chain of radical reactions leading to the formation of alkanes, malondialdehyde and isoprotane. These compounds are used as markers in lipid peroxidation assay and have been verified in many diseases such as neurogenerative diseases, ischemic reperfusion injury, and diabetes.3
Enzymatic Antioxidants
A unique category of antioxidants, only involved in detoxification of cellular oxidative stressors are enzymes, produced endogenously as primary free radical defenders.4 Superoxide dismutase (SOD) and glutathione peroxidase (GPX) are free radical specific enzymes.4 SOD is an important endogenous antioxidant which nullifies superoxide radicals and as a result, hydrogen peroxide is produced.4 GPX rapidly attacks hydrogen peroxide and peroxide radicals, converts them to alcohol, water and oxygen molecules.4
Superoxide Dismutase
SOD, an oxido-reductase, occurs in three forms, each defined by the metals present. Cu/Zn SOD is the most stable form and the most commonly used in cosmetics. Unlike Vitamin E, Vitamin C, or other antioxidants such as polyphenols, SOD is an enzyme and is not consumed in the process of neutralizing free radicals. Enzymes work like small machines continuously processing while suitable substrate and conditions are available. SOD does not generally react with free radicals, only the superoxide anion. The enzyme targets a specific harmful molecule, making truly ‘smart’ cosmetic products possible.
Glutathione Peroxidase
Glutathione is a low molecular weight, thiol-bearing, free-radical scavenger that decreases within the epidermis of aged and damaged skin. In order to reverse this imbalance, it is imperative to restore glutathione levels. Improving and increasing glutathione levels can help convert the oxidized molecules back to their reduced state.5 Glutathione plays a key role in cellular defenses against reactive oxygen species via limiting cell damage, boosting white blood cell production, and supporting other antioxidants within the body. Elevating cellular glutathione levels can help combat inflammation, preserve overall cell health, and slow the signs and symptoms of aging.
Enzymatic Antioxidants
Product Code & Name INCI Name Mechanism Multifunctional Benefits
60101PF AC SOD Liposome PF Water & Phospholipids & Superoxide Dismutase
SOD is the master antioxidant of our body, works by neutralizing superoxide anions. Liposomal delivery of SOD optimizes the activity while enhancing powerful antioxidant benefits.
• Soothes skin• Hair color protection • Antioxidant protection
20757PF AC CytoPure PF Crypthecodinium Cohnii Extract
Activates the power of glutathione to cleanse cellular pollution and detoxify skin from within.
• Cellular detoxification• Pro-collagen synthesis • Anti-pollution
20351PF Wasabi Extract PFLactobacillus/Wasabia japonica Root Ferment Extract
Increases Superoxide Dismutase activity, which works by neutralizing harmful superoxide radicals to prevent cellular damage.
• Antimicrobial• Potent antioxidant• Good for skin and hair
20357PF Ox-Red Soy Peroxidase PF Soybean PeroxidaseHarnesses the enzymatic power of Superoxide Dismutase to effectively reduce irritation while preventing against color fade.
• Anti-irritant• Good for problem skin• Intense antioxidant
20395PF AC Sebum Control Enzyme PF Butylene Glycol & Water &Spiraea Ulmaria Extract
Reduces the activity of the sebaceous glands by inhibiting the activity of 5α-reductase.
• Shine agent • Maintains young, healthy looking skin• Tightening
16670 AC Moisturezyme ProtectCitrus Sinensis (Orange) Fruit Extract & Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
In a two-step reaction the SOD from blood oranges converts the superoxide anion into hydrogen peroxide, then the peroxidase from aloe converts the hydrogen peroxide into water.
• Moisturizing• Conditioning • Superfruit
Non-Enzymatic Antioxidants
Vitamin A is an important oil soluble antioxidant that is involved in cell production and growth.3 B-carotene, the most prominent form of vitamin A derived from plants, is able to act as a lipid radical scavenger and singlet oxygen quencher.5 B-carotene is able to reduce mitochondrial mutation in human dermal fibroblasts after UV exposure.5 Therefore, increasing collagen synthesis and speeds up healing process of the skin.5
Vitamin C, also named L-ascorbic acid, is a powerful water soluble anti-oxidant. Citrus fruits and vegetables are rich in vitamin C. This essential antioxidant is not synthesized in the body, therefore, consumption of vitamin C is critical for health and immune system. Topical use of L-ascorbic acid improves overall skin health and appearance by brightening, protecting and strengthening.
Vitamin E, also known as tocopherol, is a naturally occurring endogenous anti-oxidant, which gets depleted over time due to aging and environmental pollution. In addition to anti-oxidant properties, tocopherol helps against collagen crosslinking and lipid peroxidation, which are related to skin aging.3
Non-Enzymatic Antioxidants
Product Code & Name INCI Name Mechanism Multifunctional Benefits
10550 ABS Moringa Pterygosperma Seed Extract G
Glycerin & Moringa Pterygosperma Seed Extract
The moringa seed boasts high levels of powerful antioxidants such as Vitamin C, beta carotene, iron, and potassium and is uniquely suited for cosmetic applications because of its botanical appeal.
• Skin conditioning• Increases barrier protection• Natural vitamins and minerals
60104PF AC Vitamin ACE Liposome PF
Water & Phospholipids & Retinyl Palmitate & Tocopheryl Acetate & Ascorbyl Palmitate
Encapsulation of these vitamins A, C and E in liposomes increases the stability of the vitamins.
• Nourishing• Conditioning• Enhanced delivery
20248 AC Repair Oil Complex
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil & Glycine Soja (Soybean) Oil & Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil & Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil & Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil & Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract & Tocopheryl Acetate & Retinyl Palmitate & Bisabolol
Combines the benefits of sunflower, soybean, English chamomile, lavender, rosemary leaf oils with calendula extract and vitamins A and E to help repair and condition the skin.
• Stimulates collagen synthesis• Antioxidant• Wound healing
20478 AC Royal Jelly Extract Butylene Glycol & 10-Hydroxydecanoic Acid & Sebacic Acid & 1,10-Decanediol
The vitamins E, C, B and minerals in royal jelly help to keep the skin hydrated and moisturized, an essential aspect of fighting wrinkles and aged, tired skin.
• Anti-aging• Antioxidant protection• Moisturizing
20717 AC Love Complex PF
Water & Phospholipids & Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil & Ascorbyl Palmitate & Tocopheryl Acetate & Retinyl Palmitate & Linoleic Acid & Lycopene
The combination of Lycopene, Olive oil, Vitamins, and Essential fatty acids deliver all the ingredients necessary to protect, condition, nourish and soften the skin and hair.
• Antioxidant• Anti-aging• Moisturizing
20036 ACB Kale Protein BlendHydrolyzed Kale Protein & Hydrolyzed Carrot Protein & Hydrolyzed Lemon Protein
Kale is packed full of vitamin A and E, known to work together to boost hydration, elasticity, and collagen production.
•Moisturizing• Volumizing• Film-former
20024 ACB Wakame Bioferment Advanced Undaria Pinnatifida Cell Culture Extract
This product targets the mitochondria, which has been shown to contribute to the longevity of cells and minimize damage at a cellular level.
• Anti-aging• Increases collagen synthesis • Anti-Polution
Polyphenols
Among different antioxidants, most powerful are polyphenols, abundant in flora. The human body is not capable of polyphenol synthesis, therefore, consumption and topical use is a must. Structurally, polyphenols consist of more than one aromatic ring and hydroxyl functional groups. Functional groups identify their functionality and strength - the more complex the structure, the more powerful antioxidative properties polyphenols will exhibit.
Anti-immunosuppressive, anti-aging, and antioxidant are observed qualities of polyphenols that elevate their prominence within other phytochemicals. Antioxidative action begins with neutralizing superoxide anion radicals, hydroxyl radicals and lipid radicals, preventing intracellular damage. Additionally, antioxidants inhibit lipid peroxidation, DNA damage, and toxic build up while promoting healthy cell and fibroblast production, which positively influences collagen synthesis. There are several subcategories of polyphenols which exhibit antioxidant properties, including: flavonoids, flavones, catechins, phenolic acid, isoflavones and many others that exhibit similar properties.
Polyphenols
Product Code & Name INCI Name Mechanism Multifunctional Benefits
10229 ABS White Willow Bark Extract Powder
Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract
Standardized for natural salicylates, delivers the benefits associated with salicylic acid without the irritating side effects.
• Exfoliation• Antimicrobial• Increases cellular renewal
16882 Phytofuse Rejuvenate® Salvia Hispanica Seed ExtractThe natural polysaccharides derived from chia seed mucilage promote notable wound healing anti-inflammatory, and film forming.
• Wound healing• Anti-inflammatory• Film-former
16810 ACB Pisum Sativum Peptide Pisum Sativum (Pea) Peptide
Utilizes the natural benefits of hydrolyzed pea proteins to deliver exceptional volumizing and anti-aging benefits.
• Volumizing• Smoothing• Anti-aging for skin and hair
20433PF ACB Bamboo Isoflavones PF
Lactobacillus/Arundinaria gigantea Leaf Ferment Filtrate
Bio-chelated silica and isoflavones from bamboo help increase epidermal slip by more than 60%, deliver strong antioxidant benefits to protect the skin and stimulate cellular proliferation.
• Enhances slip • Antioxidant• Natural silicone alternative
20228 ACB Agave HSPSaccharomyces/Agave Americana Leaf Ferment Filtrate
Heat-shock proteins from agave plants help maximize epidermal hydration while stimulating collagen synthesis for optimal anti-aging benefits.
• Sunburn relief • Wound healing • Increases collagen synthesis
16734 ABS Orange Polyphenols PBF
Water & Propylene Glycol & Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Flower Extract
A lipolytic active ingredient that inhibits the activity of the enzyme phosphodiesterase and catalyzes the production of cyclic AMP (cAMP).
• Anti-Aging• Antioxidant• Good for Skin and Hair
40600 Phyto-Biotics Perilla® Perilla Frutescens ExtractHarnesses the power of Rosmarinic acid to deliver natural antimicrobial, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.
• Soothes skin• Anti-inflammatory• Improves cellular metabolism
10247 ABS Pomegranate Sterols Punica Granatum Sterols
Lipid fractions produce increasedmoisture levels and a protective barrier from environmental stressors.
• Moisturizing• Improves barrier function • Functional active
Sample Formulations Tomorrow’s vision...Today!®
Sample Formulations
Polution Protection Moisture Cream
Trade Name INCI Name % VendorPhase ADeionized Water Water 42.40 LocalLiposorb® L-20 Polysorbate 20 1.00 VantagePhase BGlycerin U.S.P. Natural 96% Glycerin 4.00 Cognis Corp.KELTROL® CG Xanthan Gum 0.20 CP KelcoPhase CDermol 25B C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate 23.15 Alzo International Inc.
TNSS75MZCMZinc Oxide (And) Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene (And) C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate (And) Polyhydroxystearic Acid (And) Hydrogen Dimethicone
9.80 Kobo Products
Phytomulse® Coconut Cetearyl Alcohol & Glyceryl Stearate & Coceth-20 3.45 Active ConceptsAcquaSeal® Coconut Cocos Nucifera (coconut) Fruit Extract 0.50 Active ConceptsPhase DMSS-500W Silica 3.00 Kobo ProductsSepigel™ 305 Polyacrylamide (And) C13-14 Isoparaffin (And) Laureth-7 1.00 ChemyUnion/SEPPICPhase EPhytoFuse Rejuvenate® Salvia Hispanica Seed Extract 2.00 Active ConceptsACB Wakame Bioferment Advanced Undaria Pinnatifida Cell Culture Extract 1.00 Active ConceptsAC DermaPeptide Tightening PF Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein 2.00 Active ConceptsAC CytoPure PF Crypthecodinium Cohnii Extract 2.50 Active ConceptsACB Agave HSP Saccharomyces/Agave Americana Leaf Ferment Filtrate 2.00 Active ConceptsPhase F
Leucidal® SF Complete Lactobacillus Ferment & Lactobacillus & Cocos Nucifera (coconut) Fruit Extract 2.00 Active Micro Technologies
1. Combine Phase A into main beaker and heat to 70°C.2. In a separate container, combine Phase B ingredients into a slurry. Add Slowly to Phase A while mixing.3. In a separate container, combine Phase C ingredients and heat to 70°C.4. Add Phase C and D to main beaker while cooling to 45oC.5. Once cooled, add Phases E and F to main beaker.
Formulation Guidelines
Revitalizing Antioxidant Face Mask
Trade Name INCI Name % VendorPhase ADeionized water Water (Aqua) 58.2 LocalTetrasodium EDTA Tetrasodium EDTA 0.05 Spectrum ChemicalKeltrol CG Xanthan Gum 0.15 CP KelcoVeegum® Ultra Magnesium Aluminum Silicate 4.50 Vanderbilt Minerals, LLCGlycerin Glycerin 4.00 Spectrum ChemicalPolysorbate 60 Polysorbate 60 1.00 Spectrum ChemicalPhase B Emulsifying Wax Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Polysorbate 60 1.00 Koster Keunen, Inc.Arlacel™ 40 Sorbitan Palmitate 1.50Cetyl Alcohol Cetyl Alcohol 0.70 Spectrum ChemicalOctyl Palmitate Octyl Palmitate 3.50Phase C Leucidal® Liquid SF Max Lactobacillus Ferment 3.00 Active Micro TechnologiesKaolin Kaolin 3.00 Charkit Chemical Corp.Vanatural® Bentonite 6.00 Vanderbilt Minerals, LLCTitanium Dioxide Titanium Dioxide 3.00 Spectrum ChemicalPhase D
AC Moisturezyme Protect Citrus Sinensis (Orange) Fruit Extract & Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract 5.00 Active Concepts
ACB Modified Pumpkin Enzyme PF Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Fruit Ferment Filtrate 5.00 Active ConceptsFragrance Fragrance q.s.
Formulation Guidelines 1. Dissolve EDTA in water and disperse the Keltrol while beginning to heat to 70oC. 2. Add glycerin, Veegum, and Polysorbate 60 in water phase and heat to 70oC. 3. In a separate vessel, add Phase B. Heat to 70oC. 4. Add Phase B to Phase A when both are at 70oC and thoroughly mixed. 5. Cool to 60oC and add Phase C. Mix thoroughly to distribute the clays. Mix until smooth. 6. Cool to room temperature and add Phase D.
1. Ganceviciene, R., Liakou, A. I., Theodoridis, A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012, July 01). Skin anti- aging strategies. Retrieved from https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3583892/2. Harman, D. The Official Journal of the American Aging Association. Free radical theory of aging: consequences of mitochondrial aging. 1983. 6(3):86-94.3. Lobo, V., Patil, A., Phatak, A., & Chandra, N. (2010, July). Free radicals, antioxidants and functional foods: Impact on human health. Retrieved from https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/222289514. Jeeva, J. S., Sunitha, J., Ananthalakshmi, R., Rajkumari, S., Ramesh, M., & Krishnan, R. (2015, August). Enzymatic antioxidants and its role in oral diseases. Retrieved from https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/ articles/PMC4606614/#ref215. Schagen, S. K., Zampeli, V. A., Makrantonaki, E., & Zouboulis, C. C. (2012, July 01). Discovering the link between nutrition and skin aging. Retrieved from https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3583891/
References
Tomorrow’s vision...Today!®
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