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Page 1 of 20DP-00591 Copyright Meredith Corporation 2008

http://www.woodonline.com

DOWNLOADABLEONLINE WOODWORKING PLANS

Showplace CabinetBuild it your way

Trigger and cablelocks have beenremoved for pho-tography. Alwaysstore yourfirearms in a way

thats safe for yourcircumstances.

Its your call which version of this handsome cabinet to build: One showcases collectibles such asglassware, the other displays your hunting rifles and shotguns.

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Overall dimensions: 33" wide 16" deep 74" high.

Display up to six rifles or shotguns, or build theversion with glass shelves and a mirror back todisplay collections.

Two pull-out trays under the displaycompartment provide hidden storage.

Outfit your cabinet with low-voltage lights anda three-position dimmer.

PROJECT HIGHLIGHTSFor the self-closing hinges, knob, cam lock,

full-extension drawer slides, and low-voltagelighting kit see Sourceon page 19.

Skill BuildersLearn about stub-tenon-and-groove joinery that

speeds construction and produces sturdy furniture.Discover how a simple plywood guide makes

positioning biscuit slots a snap.

See a Slide Show of thisproject coming together at:woodmagazine.com/slides

Standing a little more than 6 feettall, this grand walnut cabinetlends distinction to any room.

As a gun cabinet, its perfect for aden or recreation room. The displaycabinet, with its glass shelves andmirrored back, will add sparkle to theliving room or dining room. Eitherway, its a beautiful piece of furnitureyoull be proud to say you built.

Form grooves and tenonsNote: Most stub-tenon-and-groovejoints have "-long tenons and "-deep grooves. Because the side framesand door in this project hold largeglass panels, we increased the tenonlength and groove depth to fi" forextra strength. For efficiency, the top,shelf, and bottom are constructed inthe same manner. To ensure accuracyand eliminate repeat setups, machineall the parts that utilize stub-tenon-and-groove joinery at the same time.

1Cut the side stiles (A), rails (B), andmiddle rails (C); bottom, shelf, and

top stiles (F) and rails (G); and doorstiles (Q), bottom rail (R), middle rail(S), and top rail (T) to size [MaterialsList, page 19]. Mark the part letter oneach part with chalk. Also, for cuttingthe grooves, mark the inside edges ofparts A, B, F, G, Q, R, and T, and bothedges of parts C and S [Drawings 1, 1b,2, 2a, 6, and 6a]. Reserve some scrap

pieces of the same thickness to testyour machine setups.

2Cut centered grooves to matchthe thickness of " plywood in

the marked part edges. To do this,adjust your tablesaw blade to cut fi"deep. Position the fence to center thethickness of a scrap piece on the blade.(You can just center the part by eye.)Make one pass over the blade, rotatethe piece end for end, and make anotherpass. Then, moving the fence closerto the blade in small increments, cut,

rotate, cut, move the fence, and repeatuntil the " plywood fits snugly in thegroove. Now, cut the grooves in all theparts. Raise the blade to 2", and maketwo additional passes over the bladewith the door top rail (T). For uniform-width grooves, especially in the longparts, use a feather board to keep theparts tightly against the fence.

3To form the rail (B, C, G, R, S,T) tenons [Drawings 1, 1b, 2, 2a,

6, 6a], install a fl" dado blade inyour tablesaw, housing fi" of it inan auxiliary fence attached to the ripfence. Using a scrap piece guidedby the miter gauge, adjust the cutdepth so passing each face of the scrapover the blade yields a centered tenonthat fits snugly into the stile grooves.Then, adjust the fence as a stop toproduce a fi"-long tenon and formtenons on the rail ends [Photo A].

A

FORM THE RAIL TENONSWith a partially housed fl" dado blade,the fence as a stop, and a miter-gaugeextension as a backer, cut the rail (B, C,G, R, S, T) tenons.

B C, G, R, S, T,

Extension

B

ASSEMBLE THE SIDESUsing 2"-wide spacers to position the rails (B) at the topand bottom (bottom shown), glue and clamp the sides(A/B/C/D).

Spacer

2" B

A

AD

B

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Assemble the case parts

1Cut the panels (D) to size andfinish-sand them. Dry-assemble one

lower rail (B) and middle rail (C)between two stiles (A) to check thefit. Then, cut two 2"-wide spacers from"-thick scrap that match the tenon-shoulder-to-tenon-shoulder length of

the rails. Now, glue and clamp the sides[Drawing 1], inserting the spacers at thebottom and top to position the rails (B)[Photo B]. Check the sides for square.

2Chuck a " rabbet bit into ahandheld router, and rout a rabbet

for the lower back (K) and upper back(L) along the inside face at the rear edgeof each side assembly [Drawing 1].

3Remove the inner lip of the groovein each side assembly to accept glass

and glass stop (E). To do this withoutrisking tear-out, start with the rabbet-bitsetup used in the previous step. Place a

side assembly on your workbench withits inside face up. Make sure the bitpilot bearing runs on the edge of theouter lip and the bearing screw clearsthe bench surface, and the cutter willremove the entire thickness of the innerlip. If necessary for bearing-screwclearance, place scrap blocks under the

side assembly. Clamp the assembly tothe workbench, firmly grip the router,and climb-cut, removing " of thefi"-deep lip. Switch to a fi" rabbet bit(or switch pilot bearings of a rabbetset with interchangeable bearings), andcomplete the job [Photo C]. Square thecorners with a chisel.

4If you are building the displaycabinet, lay out shelf-support hole

centers [Drawing 1c]. Chuck a " brad-point bit into your drill press, positionthe fence to align the bit with the holecenters, and drill the holes. (Supportthe side with a work stand where ithangs over the table edge.)

5Cut the glass stop blanks (E) to size.Crosscut four blanks to length for

the side stops [Drawing 1], and cut thetop and bottom stops from another one.Clip the head off a #171" brad, anduse it to drill brad holes through the

stops. Finish-sand the stops.

6Cut the top, shelf, and bottom panels(H) to size, and finish-sand them.

Dry-fit, and then glue and clamp theassemblies (F/G/H) [Drawing 2]. Checkeach for square.

7Make a " plywood guide [Drawing1a] to position the biscuit joiner

when plunging the biscuit slots intothe side assemblies and to transfer thebiscuit centerlines to the bottom, shelf,and top assemblies. Plunge slots for thebottom and shelf assemblies [Drawing1, Photo D]. Now, reposition the guide2" from the top ends of the stiles (A),and plunge slots for the top assembly.

Finish-sand the side assemblies. Toensure a tight fit between the frontstiles (A) and face frame stiles (I), donot sand the front stile edges.

8Transfer the biscuit centerlines onthe guide to the bottom, shelf, and

top assemblies. Adjust the biscuit-joiner fence to center a slot on the "thickness of the stiles (F) and rails (G),and plunge the slots [Drawing 2]. Finish-sand the stile and rail faces. To ensuretight joints where these parts mate withothers, do not sand the edges.

D

SLOT THE SIDE ASSEMBLIESClamp the guide to the side assembly, position thebiscuit joiner against the guide, align the centerlines,and plunge the slots.

Guide Centerlinesaligned

Biscuitcenterlines

4"

C

REMOVE THE GROOVE INNER LIPAfter making one pass over the inner lip with a "rabbet bit, switch to afi" rabbet bit and climb-cut toremove the remaining portion.

Second pass

First pass

Designer Jeff Mertz showsthe features of the cabinetin a FREE video at:woodmagazine.com/videos

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Construct the case

1Glue, biscuit, and clamp the bottomand shelf assemblies to one side

assembly [Photo E], and let the gluedry. Then, glue, biscuit, and clamp thetop assembly in place [Photo F], and letthe glue dry. Now, add the second sideassembly [Photo G].

2Cut the face frame stiles (I) tosize, and the rails (J) 1" longer

than listed. Dry-assemble and mark thefinished length of the rails [Photo H],and cut them to length.

3Plunge biscuit slots into the frontedges of the side-assembly front

stiles (A) [Drawing 1], and mating slotsinto the rear faces of the face-framestiles (I) [Drawing 3]. Then, plungebiscuit slots into the inside edges of theface-frame stiles and mating slots intothe ends of the face-frame rails (J).

4Glue, biscuit, and clamp one face-frame stile (I) to the front stile (A)

of one side assembly. Then, add therails (J) and the second face-frame stile[Photo I], and clamp them in place.

5To rout stopped coves along theouter edges of the face frame stiles

(I) [Drawing 4], first cut four 4"-longstopblocks. Clamp a block to the topand bottom end of each stile (A), androut the coves [Photo J]. To avoidburning and chip-out, rout each covein two passes. Finish-sand the face

frame.

6Cut the lower back (K) and upperback (L) to size [Drawing 4], and

finish-sand them.

E

Using the guide as a spacer and asquaring brace, glue, biscuit, andclamp the bottom and shelf assem-blies to one side assembly.

F

Transfer the guide to the top endof the side assembly, and glue,biscuit, and clamp the top assem-bly in place.

G

With the guide clamped betweenthe bottom and shelf to keep ev-erything square, glue, biscuit, andclamp the second side assembly.

ASSEMBLE THE CASE

Hole cutfor clamphead

Guide

ShelfBottom

Guide

Top

Guide

Bottom

Shelf

Top

Cauls transfer clamp pressure

HADD THE FACE FRAME TO THE CASEClamp one stile (I) in place, posi-tion the over-length rail (J) againstit, hold the second stile (I) in place,and mark the length of the rail.

J

ROUT THE STOPPED COVESStarting and ending with the"cove bit pilot bearing against a stop-block, rout stopped coves along theedge of each stile (I).

I

Glue and biscuit the rails (J) to thesecond stile (I). Then glue and bis-cuit these parts to the first stile (I)and the side stile (A).

I

IJ

J

I

A

J

I

Stopblock

4"

Edgesflush

/" cove

I

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Make the base and crown

1Cut the base blank (M) to size. Routa shouldered " round-over along

the outer top edge [Drawing 4a].

2To make the base wood grain wrapcontinuously around the case, cut

the piece for the base front from thecenter of the blank. Make it as long as

the case width plus 2". Miter one endof the base front and the end of eachof the short pieces (the base sides) thatmate with the base-front. Next, markthe heel of the second base front miter

[Photo K], and cut the miter. Now, markthe length of the base sides [Photo L],and cut them to length.

3Lay out the base-front cutout[Drawing 4] and bandsaw and sand

it to shape. Finish-sand the base frontand sides. Glue and clamp them to thecase.

4Cut the crown-base blank (N),crown-cap blank (O), and crown-

bevel blank (P) to size. Rout a "cove on the base blank and a " coveon the cap blank [Drawing 4b]. Cut a

18"-deep groove in the front face of thebevel blank, and bevel-rip the bottomedge. Cut "-deep glue-relief groovesin blanks N and P. Now, finish-sandeach blank, and glue and clamp themtogether [Drawing 5, Photos Mand N].

5From the center of the blank, cut apiece for the crown front to a lengthequal to the case width plus 4". Then,as with the base parts, miter, mark, andcut the parts to length. Glue and clampthe crown to the case [Drawing 4].

KMARK THE BASE PART CUTLINES

Align the heel of the mitered end of

the base front with the face-framestile (I) corner. Mark the miter heel atthe other end.

L

Clamp the base front in place, position

a base side, and tape the miter togeth-er. Mark the side length flush with therear stile (A).

MGLUE UP THE CROWN

Working on a flat surface, glue andclamp the crown base blank (N) to thecrown cap blank (O), keeping the endsand rear edges flush.

N

With the crown base blank (N) andcrown cap blank (O) glue-up dry, glueand clamp the crown bevel blank (P)in place.

A

O

N

N

P

O

Miter heelaligned atcorner

Masking tapeI

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3fi"

3fi"

" cove onoutside face

3"

17"

17"

3"

"

#20 biscuit slots

J

26"

3"

2"

74"

#20 biscuit slots

2"

2"

17"

J

II

(Inside face shown)3 FACE FRAME

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Assemble the door

1Retrieve the door parts Q, R, S, andT. Using a fairing stick, draw the

top-rail (T) arch. (For a free fairing stickplan, go to woodmagazine.com/fairing.)Bandsaw and sand the arch.

2Cut the panel (U) to size, and finish-sand it. Dry-assemble the door to

check the fit of the parts [Drawing6]. Then, glue and clamp the door,checking for square.

3To support the long groove lips atthe base of the top-rail (T) arch and

reinforce the joints between the top railand the stiles (Q), cut the splines (V)from " plywood [Drawing 6]. Gluethe splines in place [Photo O].

4Chuck a " round-over bit intoa handheld router, and rout a

shouldered round-over along the outerfront door edges [Drawings 6 and 6b].Switch to a " rabbet bit, and rout

the outer rear door edges [Drawings 6and 6c].

5To accept the glass and glass stop(E), rout away the inner lip of only

the door stiles (Q) and middle rail (S)[Drawing 6], using the same method asfor the side assemblies. Start and stoprouting where the top rail (T) meets

the stiles (Q). Square only the bottomcorners of the rabbet with a chisel.Cut the glass stops to length, and sandthe top end of each side stop to matchthe ends of the rabbet [Photo P]. Drillbrad holes in the stops, and finish-sandthem.

6

Chuck a " brad-point bit into

your drill press, and drill a knobhole [Drawing 6]. Switch to a "Forstner bit, and drill a hole for the camlock. (You can omit the cam lock if youare building the display case.) With thecase lying faceup, position the hingeson the face-frame stile (I) [Drawing4], drill pilot holes, and screw them inplace. Position the door on the case,and clamp it in place. Reaching insidethe case, drill pilot holes into the doorstile (Q). Remove the door and hingesfrom the case. Finish-sand the door.

Build two slide-out trays

1From " stock, cut the fronts andbacks (W) to size and from fi"

stock, cut the sides (X) to size. (Weused poplar.) Then, to form the joints[Drawings 7 and 7a], follow the threesteps of Drawing 8.Cut grooves for thebottoms (Y).

2Cut the bottoms (Y) to size. Dry-assemble the trays to check the fit

of the parts. Disassemble the trays, andfinish-sand the bottoms and the insidefaces of the fronts and backs (W) andsides (X). Glue and clamp the trays,checking them for square. With theglue dry, finish-sand the outside faces.

3Cut the slide supports (Z) to size.Glue and clamp supports to the

side-assembly stiles (A) and the face-frame stiles (I) at the front of thecabinet [Drawing 9]. Position each slidesupport at the back of the cabinet to fallbehind the back mounting hole in theslide. Glue and clamp the supports tothe side-assembly stiles.

Make the gun-rack partsNote:If you are building the displaycabinet, skip to the next section, Finishthe case, add glass.

1Edge-glue " stock for the base(AA), and cut the part to size. Lay

out 2" hole centers [Drawing 10]. Chucka Forstner bit into your drill press, anddrill the holes. Connect the hole edgeswith tangent lines, and cut along themwith a jigsaw. Drum-sand the edges ofthe cutouts smooth. Chuck a " round-

O

REINFORCE THE TOP JOINTS

P

MATCH THE STOP TO THE RABBETUsing a thin splint or small brush, spread glue in thespline area in the stile (Q) and top-rail (T) grooves.Then, insert the spline (V).

Sand a radius on the top end of each door sidestop (E) to match the radius at the top ends of thedoor rabbet.

T

V

Q

E

Location ofinside

thegrooves

Rabbet radius

Sanded to match

V

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Q

T

R

fi" rabbetfi" deep

routed after

assembly

" round-over with a" shoulder

on outside facerouted after assembly

" rabbet" deep

routed afterassembly

Q

64fi"

32"

1" brassknob

2"

22"

7"

3"

x 22 x 50" glass

"

2"4fi"

22"

" groovesfi" deep,centered

2"2"

2" corner ofglass removed

"

Leave thefl" radius

at top.

E

21"

48"

"

fi"

#17 x 1" brad

E

E

fl" radius

U

VV

S

1"" hole

" hole

Cam lock

Self-adhesivebumper

(Inside face shown)6 DOOR

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over bit into a handheld router and routthe top edge of each cutout. Switch toa " cove bit, and rout the front edgeof the part. Now, install a dado blade inyour tablesaw, adjust the cut depth tomatch the shelf panel (H) recess, andcut rabbets along the ends and backedge. Finish-sand the base.

2Cut a 331fi" piece of stock forthe barrel support (BB). Lay out the

1fi" hole centers [Drawing 10], chucka Forstner bit into your drill press, anddrill the holes. Cut the part to finishedlength, trimming both ends. To convertthe row of holes to notches, draw two" radii tangent to each hole and thefront edge of the part, and bandsaw andsand the notches to shape. Drum-sandthe notches smooth, and then rout a "round-over along the top and bottomedges. Finish-sand the barrel support.

Finish the case, add glass

1Inspect all parts and assemblies, andfinish-sand where needed. Apply a

clear finish. (We made an oil/varnishblend, and applied three coats. To learnabout this finish, seepage 20.)

2Have glass cut to size for the sidesand door [Drawings 1and 6]. If you

are building the display cabinet, alsohave glass shelves and a mirror cut tosize [Drawing 4c]. (We had the glassdealer finish our shelves with polishedpencil edges and remove the sharpedges from the mirror.)

3Lay the case on one side on apadded surface, position the glass,

and nail the stops in place [Photo Q].Turn the case onto the other side, andrepeat.

4Lay the door facedown on the pad.Position the glass in the rabbeted

opening, sliding the end with the clippedcorners into the top-rail (T) groove.Fasten the stops (E) with brads.

Assemble the cabinet

1For the gun cabinet, clamp the base(AA) in place. From the bottom,

drill screw holes through the shelf rails(G) into the base, and drive the screws[Drawing 4]. (For the #8 screws in thisproject, drill " shank holes and 764"pilot holes.)

2Separate the parts of the drawerslides. Fasten the case members

to the slide supports (Z) [Drawing 9],and the drawer members to the trays[Drawing 7]. Slide the trays in.

3Clamp the lower back (K) and upperback (L) to the case. Drill screw

holes and, for the gun cabinet, drivethe screws. For the display cabinet,drill the holes, then mark the top edgeof the shelf rear stile (F) on the insidesurface of the upper back. Screw thelower back in place. Remove the upper

back and lay it on a flat surface with theinside surface up. Adhere the mirror tothe upper back with mirror adhesive.Center the mirror side-to-side and alignits bottom edge with the marked line.After the adhesive cures, screw theupper back to the case.

4To install the gun-cabinet barrelsupport (BB), first cut a pair of

35"-long spacers. Then, place oneend of each spacer on the base (AA).Apply double-faced tape to the backedge of the barrel support, position iton the tops of the spacers, and adhere it

to the upper back (L). Drill screw holesthrough the back and into the support[Drawing 4]. Drive the screws.

5To add interior lights, drill "holes through the top panel (H)

[Drawing 11], and screw the lights inplace. Connect the lights and dimmer,following the included instructions.Remove the protective paper from thedouble-faced tape on the back of thedimmer, and adhere it to the back face

of the upper back (L) near the edge.(When placing the cabinet, leave justenough room for your fingers betweenthe cabinet and the wall.)

6Fasten the hinges to the case andhang the door. Stick a self-adhesive

bumper (included with the hinges) tothe lip of the door rabbet opposite eachhinge [Drawing 6]. Install the knob andcam lock. (The lock is optional for thedisplay cabinet.)

7To complete the display cabinet,install cushioned shelf supports inthe holes in the sides [Drawing 4c].

Then, install the shelves.

Q

INSTALL THE GLASS STOP

Cover the glass with cardboard and drive a brad into the glassstop (E) pilot hole by sliding the hammer on the cardboard.

E

Cardboard

#171" brad

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STEP1

Auxiliary

woodfence

"dadoblade

Tablesaw

"

fi"

STEP

2

Auxiliary

wood

fence

Outside

face

"dadobla

de

Ta

blesaw

fi"

STEP3 T

ablesaw

"dado

blade

Outside

face

"

"

Auxiliary

wood

fence

"

W

W

X

W

,

8

MACHINING

THET

RAYPARTS

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W

hether youre new to finishingor just want a fuss-free wayto protect a project, a wipe-on

mix of oil and varnish brings out woodsnatural glow while building a shieldagainst humidity and wear. And you canrepair most minor damage in minuteswith a light sanding and touch-up coat ofthis finish.Although commercial oil-varnish mixesare available, you can save money bymixing ingredients in your shop. Tocreate the finish we applied to the cabinet

shown on page 30and above, we mixedthree parts gloss polyurethane varnish totwo parts each of boiled linseed oil and

naphtha, which evaporates faster thanmineral spirits. The oil penetrates thewood, deepening the grain of such speciesas walnut and adding grain contrast incurly maple, as shown top. The varnishleaves a thin film finish, while the naphthamakes the mixture easy to spread with asoft cloth. Together, the oil and varnishgive light woods, such as maple, a warmamber color, as shown above right.

Many oil-and-varnish recipes call forequal amounts of boiled linseed oil,varnish, and mineral spirits. But as thesample below left shows, you can getthe same results and build a film finish

quicker by increasing the percentage ofvarnish until you notice wiping marks.

Apply a flawless finishTo prepare the wood, sand up to 180 grit.Then vacuum off or blow dust from thepores with compressed air before youwipe down the surface with a soft cloth.Wipe on the finish with a clean clothuntil you saturate the wood surface. Thenremove all excess finish with a cleancloth, especially in recesses and cornerswhere it may pool. Excess finish will turnsoft, gummy, and tricky to remove. After

an hour, check for signs of oil bleedingout of the pores, and wipe it away beforeit cures. Allow one full day for the finishto cure.Then lightly sand the finish with a 320-grit sanding sponge. Clean the surfaceand apply a second coat, again wipingaway the surplus. Wipe on as many coatsas you wantwith 24 hours and a lightscuff-sanding between eachbut four issufficient.

3 parts varnish1 part BLO1 part naphtha

2 parts varnish1 part BLO1 part naphtha

A GuaranteedFoolproof FinishWipe on. Wipe off. You cant make finishing any easierthan this homemade oil-and-varnish mix.

Increasing the percentage of varnish builds protection faster without sacrificing grain-en-hancing benefits from the boiled linseed oil (BLO). The mix on the leftproduced the samecolor and depth as the one on the right, but added 50 percent more varnish with each coat.

By penetrating deeper into porous areas ofcurly maple, an oil/varnish finish brings outthe beauty of the grain figure.

Both the oil and varnish in this finish addamber color you can see on this pale maple.

Also, both ingredients will darken with age.

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