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    Roots in the natural environment

    Japan is a long island about 3,500

    km in length from north-east to south-

    west, situated in the Pacific Ocean

    to the east of the Eurasian bloc. The

    surrounding sea is a mixture of warm

    and cold streams, giving abundant

    varieties of fish. The Japanese climate

    is characterized by warm monsoons,

    although the northern region is temperate

    and the southern islands subtropical.

    As a result, distinct changes over four

    seasons are experienced, which has been

    an important factor in Japanese cuisine.

    There are two rainy seasons in Japan.

    One is in June (Tsuyu: plum rain) and

    the other is in September (Akisame:

    autumn rain). The annual rainfall

    averages 2,000 mm, so fresh water is

    abundant. This water provides benefits

    to Japanese agriculture, al lowing

    cultivation of rice, vegetables and fruit.

    Thanks to its widespread availability,

    extensive water use is characteristic of

    Japanese cuisine.

    About 70% of the land in Japan is

    mountainous, with very few plains. The

    mountains are covered with deep forest.

    Religious taboos against killing animals

    made it unpopular to raise and kill cattle,

    sheep and pigs for food until the mid-

    19th century. However, after the opening

    of the country to the world in 1854, meat

    dishes and dairy products were accepted

    and rapidly became popular. Sukiyaki

    and shabu-shabuwere created as distinct

    Japanese dishes, and production of

    high-quality meat in the form of Wagyu

    (Japanese beef) was developed.

    Thus, meat eating culture has existed

    since the Meiji era (1868-), but the

    traditional Japanese food culture is based

    on rice, fish and vegetables, which are

    considered to be gifts of nature.

    Raw ingredients

    A primary characteristic of Japanese

    cuisine is the enjoyment of the raw taste

    of food, without using strongly-flavoured

    sauces. Typical examples are sashimi

    (raw fish slices) and sushi (vinegared

    rice topped with raw fish). Sashimi is

    prepared simply by cutt ing fresh fish.

    Freshness is ensured by various methods

    and hygiene is carefully maintained.

    Cutting methods were also developed

    specifically to maintain good taste.

    The knife used to cut sashimi is a

    long knife beveled on one side. The

    sharpness of the edge and the slicing

    method involves pulling the knife on the

    fish, which does not damage the tissues,

    maintaining its umami (savouriness).

    Itamae (specialist chefs of Japanese

    cuisine) make the technique look

    easy, but it requires extensive training.

    Sushi is similar, maintaining the tissue

    fluid in the slices of fish, so its taste in

    combination with the sushi rice can be

    appreciated.

    Shoyu (soy sauce) enhances the flavor

    of the raw fish. Shoyu is made from soy

    fermented for a long time. To enjoy the

    fresh taste of seasonal products, Japanese

    cooking time for roasting and broiling is

    kept relatively short. In contrast, shoyu

    Characteristics ofeating culturein J apanIsao Kumakura

    President, Shizuoka University of Art and Culture

    Director, Hayashibara Museum of Art

    Sakizuke, appetizer in Japanese cuisine

    Sashimi, raw fish slices, soy sauce (right),

    and chopsticks (lower edge)

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    and miso (fermented soybean paste)

    require long fermentation times, from 3

    months to more than a year, to mature.

    Umami (savouriness) is a characteristic

    taste of Japanese food. Taste bud sensors

    for sweet, sour, salty and bitterflavours

    have been known for a long time. (Spicy

    hotness is felt by pain sensors, so are not

    included as scientifically defined tastes).

    The umami receptor was discovered and

    confirmed by Japanese researchers. The

    main components ofumami are glutamic

    acid, inosinic acid, and guanyl acid, that

    are abundant in kelp seaweed (kombu),

    dried bonito fish flakes (katsuo), and

    dried mushrooms (shiitake) . The

    umami provided by kelp and bonito are

    fundamentals of Japanese cuisine, and

    are used in various ways in soup, broiled

    vegetables, sushi, etc.

    The arrangement of dishes is another

    important factor in Japanese cuisine.

    Colorful dishes arranged according toa traditional pattern are beautiful and

    stimulating to the appetite. Plates and

    bowls are carefully presented to make a

    visually attractive combination with their

    contents to express seasonal feelings.

    Japan is also known for having a large

    variety of plates and bowls in different

    sizes and designs.

    Rice and miso soup

    A typical Japanese meal basically has

    four components: rice, miso soup, the

    main dish(es), and pickles. Rice is the

    staple component and lies at the core of

    Japanese food culture. Japanese rice is a

    sticky Japonica species; when steamed

    it has a characteristic taste with a slight

    sweetness. It contains many of the

    necessary nutritional elements, so the

    addition of suitable amounts of animal

    protein and fat make for a complete diet.

    Soup is usually sipped slowly throughout

    a meal. Miso soup is made by dissolving

    miso in dashi-jiru (a soup stock rich in

    umami). A small amount of seaweed or

    various seasonal vegetables are added;

    sometimes fish heads, shrimp or clams

    are used. Rice and soup in bowls form abasic pair.

    Side dishes support the main bowl

    of rice. Three kinds of side dishes are

    prepared at home: fish, vegetables and

    pi ck les. Social ch anges ha ve led to

    the number of dishes increasing, and

    consumption of rice decreasing, such

    that the distinction between the main

    dish and side dishes has become unclear

    J a p a n e se p i c k l e s a r e f e rm e n t e d

    vegetables, and there are different

    kinds such as bran pickles, salt pickles,

    an d sakekasu (Japanese wine lees)

    pickles. A suitable weight is applied

    to the vegetables during fermentation,

    decreasing their water content and

    improving theirumami and flavor.

    Ko-no-mono refers to pickles with

    good flavor, which clean the mouth and

    stimulate the appetite.

    These characteristic components of rice

    (the main staple) together with ichi-ju-

    sansai (miso soup and three side dishes)

    thus form the basis of traditional home

    cuisine.

    Eat J apanese cuisine

    The characteristic way of eatingJapanese cuisine is to alternate between

    eating the rice, soup and side dishes.

    This is the normal way of eating daily

    at home; in Japanese restaurants, food

    is served course-by-course in forms

    such as kaiseki, with rice and miso soup

    usually appearing last, making the eating

    order similar to western cuisine.

    Hashi (chopsticks) are the implements

    used for ea t ing . Japanese a t t ach

    importance to cleanliness, so disposable

    chopsticks are used in most eateries.

    Individual chopsticks are used at home,

    some of which are beautifully made

    from wood and decorated with lacquer

    paint. Japanese chopst icks are shor t

    with thin ends compared to ChineseMacchaand yokan, Green tea and Japanese sweet made from redbean paste covered by soy bean powder

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    ones. Some Korean chopsticks are made

    from metal, but Japanese chopsticks areusually made from wood or bamboo or

    plastic. Chopsticks are very convenient

    for picking up small things and breaking

    up large things into smaller pieces.

    Japanese cuisine is made to be eaten

    using chopsticks, so foods are typically

    cut into small pieces before serving, or

    broiled until soft to allow them to be cut

    using chopsticks.

    Spoons are not generally used in

    Japanese cuisine, so miso soup is

    generally sipped directly from the edge

    of the bowl. The soup is very hot, so one

    should carefully sip a small amount at

    a time. Holding the bowl in one hand

    and sipping directly from it is correct

    etiquette in Japan.

    Japanese consider sharing a meal to

    be an important part of the hospitality

    shown to guests. In this case, not only

    the taste of the meal, but the designand decoration of plates and bowls to

    express seasonal beauty is important.

    Appropriate selection of food and

    plates can be used to express a sense of

    celebration, or of sorrow. Decoration of

    the room, with flower arrangements and

    paintings selected tofi

    t the atomosphere,is also important in the sharing of a meal

    with guests. This is all to say that eating

    plays an import ant ro le in Japanese

    culture.

    To express gratitude to the host, a guest

    will say ita-daki-masu before eating,

    and gochi-so-sama after finishing a

    meal; these are basic manners even at

    home that include thanks not only to

    people, but also to nature, for providing

    the meal.

    Epilogue

    Japanese cuisine is nutritionally

    well-balanced and healthy, which has

    resulted in the longevity of the Japanese

    population. From a health perspective,

    green tea and Japanese cakes are

    also noteworthy. Green tea contains

    antioxidants such as catechin; Japanese

    sweets do not contain butter and cream,so they are ideal as part of a low calorie

    diet. These are served as a dessert after

    a Japanese course-based meal. Japanese

    sake (Japanese rice wine) is also a good

    appetizer and enhances the mood during

    eating.

    Knowledge of and interest in Japanesecuisine exists throughout the world.

    The increasing number of Japanese

    restaurants in the world is welcomed

    because Japanese cuisine is not only

    healthy and tasty, but also emphasizes

    communication between host and guest.

    In contrast, young people in Japan today

    exhibit poor eating habits under the

    influence of globalization, such as eating

    excessive amounts of high energy foods

    with bad nutritional balance.

    The Japanese Government passed

    the Shokuiku Basic Act in 2005 to try

    to maintain traditional cultural eating

    habits. Many NGOs are collaborating in

    the education of young people to enable

    them to select foods wisely.

    World wide prob lems, such as

    environmental change, lack of energy

    and water resources, increasing obesity,

    etc. have grown more serious in recentyears. The global spreading of the low-

    calorie, healthy diet offered by Japanese

    cuisine could contribute to resolving

    some of these problems.