BEAUTIFUL SWAT GALLERY & HISTORY

BY THEPUKHTUNKHWA.BLOGSPOT.COM

This article is about all aspects of the administrative district. For the Swat river itself, see Swat River.Swat District District —Location of Swat District (yellow) —سواتwithin the Khyber-Pakhtunkhwa Province of Pakistan Country Pakistan Province Khyber Pakhtunkhwa Province,Capital Saidu Sharif Established Government District Nazim District Naib Nazim Area Total 5,337 km2 (2,061 sq mi) Population (1998) Total 1,257,602

Density 236/km2 (610/sq mi)Time zone PKT (UTC+5)Area code(s) Area code 946District Council Website "www.swatdirectory.com" m "www.tourswat.com"This article needs additional citations for verification. Please help improve this article by adding citations to reliable sources. Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. (January 2013)

Swat (pronounced [ˈsʋaːtM], (Urdu: سوات) is a valley and an administrative district in the Khyber Pakhtunkhwa near the Pakistan-Afghanistan border. It is the upper valley of the Swat River, which rises in the Hindu Kush range. The capital of Swat is Saidu Sharif, but the main town in the Swat valley is Mingora.[1]

It was a princely state (see Swat (princely state)) in Khyber Pakhtunkhwa until it was dissolved in 1969. The valley is almost entirely populated by ethnic Pashtun. The predominant language spoken in the valley is Pashto, while the languages spoken by natives of Swat Kohistan include Torwali and Kalami.Contents [hide]

1 Languages and Demo raphics 2 History g 2.1 Buddhist and Dardic [4] heritage of Swat2.2 Kabul Shahi rulers and Sanskrit2.3 Advent of Islam2.4 Arrival of Yousafzais3 Geography 3.1 Mountain ranges3.2 Plains

4 Cultural Diversity5 Administration6 Economy7 Tourist attractions 7.1 Marghazar7.2 Malam Jabba7.3 Swat Museum7.4 Miandam7.5 Madyan

7.6 Bahrain7.7 Kalam7.8 Mateltan7.9 Utror7.10 Ghabral7.11 Mahudan7.12 Pari (Khapiro) Lake

7.13 Kundol Lake7.14 Bashigram Lake7.15 Spin Khwar (White Stream) Lake7.16 Daral Lake8 Gallery9 See also10 References11 External links

Languages of Kyber Pakhtunkha

Pashto is main language spoken in a specific swati dialect, but majority of people in the north in Swat Kohistan speak Kohistani languages like Torwali, Gojri and Kalami. Urdu being the national language is also spoken and understood, and to a lesser extent English. The population at the 1981 census was 715,938, which had risen to 1,257,602 at the next census in 1998. Main Tribes are Yusufzais, Akhund Khel Miangan (Syed), Chitralis, Kohistanis, Gurjar (Gujar or Gurjar is the major tribe of the district; its people are divided in different clans including the Khatana, Bajar, Chechi, Ahir, Chauhan, Parmara, Gangal, Kasana etc. are the main subtribe of the Gurjar family of Swat), Akhund khel Yousafzai, Nooristani, and Awans.

The Dardic people of the Bahrain and Kalam regions in Swat Kohistan are known as Kohistanis (or Dards). They speak the Torwali and Kalami languages. Some Khowar speakers reside in the northern Kalam region. Before Kalam came under the rule of Swat, it was a regional tributary to Chitral. The Kalamis paid a tribute of mountain ponies to the Mehtar of Chitral every year. [2]History[edit]

Swat has been inhabited for over two thousand years. The first occupants created well-planned towns. In 327 BC, Alexander the Great fought his way to Udegram and Barikot and stormed their battlements. In Greek accounts, these towns have been identified as Ora and Bazira, respectively. Around the 2nd century BC, the area was occupied by Buddhists, who were attracted by the peace and serenity of the land. There are many remains that testify to their skills as sculptors and architects.

In the beginning of the 8th century AD, the Gabari Swati Pashtun tribe advanced through Laghmanat, Nangarhar, and Dir. By the early 13th century, they captured Swat, defeating the local Buddhists and the Hindus. This war was headed by Sultan Pakhal Gabari and later on by the Jahangiri Sultan Behram Gabari rulers of Kunar Pech and cousins of the rulers of Kashmir.

Later some Dilazak encroached on the area and settled among the Gabari. They were ousted in turn by the Yusufzais, backed by the Mughal Badshah Zahiruddin Muhammad Baber, considered the super power in 1519 and 1520. The historical paradox was that the Yusufzais were ousted from Kabul by Mirza Ullegh beg, the uncle of Baber, who killed 600 malak of Yusufzai. Yousofzais refugees settled among the Gabaris in the Dir and Swat regions.

With the help of Zahiruddin Muhammad Babur, the Yousofzais encroached upon the Gabari state. They demolished the Gabar-Kot (fortress) in Bajour in 1519 and advanced to the Swat. The last Gabari king, Sultan Awais Gabari, fled to Upper Dir, where he established his rule in Chitral,

Wakhan, Badakhshan and other towns along the upper Oxus River.

The ancestor of the present family of Swat was the Muslim saint Abdul Ghafoor, the Akhund of Swat, a Safi Momand of Hazara district. He migrated to the Buner territory. He was a pious man and the people respected him so greatly that they called him Akhund Sahib.[3]

During the mid-19th century, Muslim tribes fought against each other to control the Swat Valley. On the intervention of Akhund Sahib, the killing was stopped. The chiefs of the tribes unanimously chose him the ruler of the valley. Akhund Sahib administered the valley according to Muslim laws. Peace prevailed, and agriculture and trade flourished. Akhund Sahib had two sons by his wife, who belonged to Nikbi Khel.

After the death of Akhund Sahib, the tribal chiefs fell into open warfare again, which continued for years. Eventually the tribal chiefs gave control of the valley into the hands of the Gul Shahzada Abdul Wadood, the son of Mian Gul Abdul Khaliq, son of Akhund Sahib. The wife of Mian Abdul Wadood was the daughter of Mirza Afzal-ul-Mulk, the ruler of Chitral. The British put Chitral under the suzerainty of Kashmir. The Chitral ruler gave two horses every year to the Rajia of Kashmir, and the Raja provided Chitral with grain and sugar, etc. Swat went under protection of the British.

In 1947 during the rule of Mian Gul Muhammad, Abdul Haq Jehanzeb, the son of Mian Abdul Wadood, the state acceded to Pakistan. The present prince, Muhammad Aurzngzeb Khan, son of Jahanzeb, married the daughter of Field Marshal Mohammad Ayub Khan in 1955. By intermarriages with the other castes, the family developed strong relation with other nobles of the area such as he Lala (Sayyeds) family. They supported the Royal family in administrative as well as in the military affairs of the state. Jahznzeb started a Degree College at Saidu Sahrif, the capital of the State, and four High Schools at Mingora, Chakesar, Matta and Dagar. Fourteen middle schools, twenty-eight lower middle schools, and fifty-six primary schools were established. A girls' high school and high-class religious schools were established at Saidu Sharif. At all the schools, the poor students were granted scholarships.

The state was an exemplary state during British rule. The Gujjars were traditionally very poor people in the Swat Valley. They are gaining education and are holding good posts in government services. They also have a firm stand in politics of Pakistan. The current Prince Aurangzeb Khan was also Governor of the province of Baluchistan, Pakistan.Buddhist and Dardic [4] heritage of Swat[edit]

An 1896 photo of a Buddha statue seated on a lotus throne in the Swat Valley

Although it is generally accepted that Tantric Buddhism first developed in Swat under King Indrabhuti, there is an old and well-known scholarly dispute as to whether Uddiyana was in the Swat valley, Orissa or some other place. Padmasambhava (flourished eighth century AD), also called Guru Rimpoche, Tibetan Slob-dpon (teacher), or Padma ‘byung-gnas (lotus born), a legendary Indian Buddhist mystic who introduced Tantric Buddhism to Tibet, is credited with establishing the first Buddhist monastery here.

According to tradition, Padmasambhava was native to Udyana (now Swat in Pakistan).[5] Padmasambhava was the son of Indrabhuti, king of Swat in the early eighth century AD. One of the original Siddhas, Indrabhuti flourished in the early eighth century AD and was the king of Uddiyana in the Kabul valley. His son Padmasambhava is revered as the second Buddha in Tibet. Indrabhuti's sister, Lakshminkaradevi, was also an accomplished siddha of the 9th century AD.[6]

Ancient Gandhara, the valley of Pekhawar, with the adjacent hilly regions of Swat and Buner, Dir and Bajaur was one of the earliest centers of Buddhist religion and culture following the reign of the Mauryan emperor Ashoka, in the third century BC. The name Gandhara first occurs in the Rigveda, which is usually identified with the region[7]

Buddha heritage in the Swat Valley

The Swat museum has footprints of the Buddha, which were originally placed for devotion in the sacred Swat valley. When the Buddha ascended, relics (personal items, body parts, ashes etc.) were distributed to seven kings, who built stupas over them for veneration.

Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh visit to Swat Valley 1961-1962

The Harmarajika stupa at Taxila and Butkarha (Swat) stupa at Jamal Garha were among the earliest Gandhara stupas. These were erected on the orders of King Ashoka and contained the genuine relics of the historic Buddha.[citation needed] The Gandhara school is credited with the first representations of the Buddha in human form, symbolically as the wheel of the law, the tree, etc.[citation needed]

Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh visit to Swat Valley 1961-1962

As Buddhist art developed and spread outside Gandhara, Gandharan styles were imitated. In China the Gandhara style was imitated in bronze images, with gradual changes in the features of these images over the passage of time. Swat is celebrated throughout the Buddhist world as the holy land of Buddhist learning and piety. Swat was a popular destination for Buddhist pilgrims. Buddhist tradition holds that Buddha came to Swat during his incarnation as Gautama Buddha and preached to the people here.

At one time, the Swat valley was said to have 1400 stupas and monasteries, which held as many as 6,000 gold images of the Buddhist pantheon. Archaeologists have found more than 400 Buddhist sites, covering an area of 160 km2 in Swat valley alone. Among the important excavations of Buddhist sites is Butkarha-I, containing original relics of the Buddha. A stone statue of Buddha stands in the village Ghalegay.[citation needed] There is also a big stupa in Mohallah Singardar Ghalegay.[citation needed]Kabul Shahi rulers and Sanskrit[edit]

Swat was ruled by the Kabul Shahi dynasty, who built an extensive array of temples and other architectural buildings. These are now in ruins. Sanskrit may have been the lingua franca of the Swatis.[8]

Kabul Shahi rulers built fortresses to guard and tax the commerce through this area. Their ruins can be seen in the hills of Swat at Malakand Pass at Swat’s southern entrance.[9]Advent of Islam[edit]

At the end of the Mauryan period (324-185 BC), Buddhism spread in the whole Swat valley, which became a famous center of the religion.[10] The Hindu religion expanded again as Buddhism retreated east. By the time of the Muslim conquest (1000 AD), the population was mostly Hindu.[10]

Capital of Swat Valley " Saidu Sharif "Saidu Sharif Hospital Eastern BlockMain Building of Saidu sharif HospitalAqba Masjid

In 1023, Sultan Mahmud Ghaznavi conquered Swat and defeated the last Buddhist king, Raja Gira, in battle. The conquest by Sultan Mahmud Ghaznavi is of special importance because he introduced Islam. In addition, he changed the way of telling time in history.[11] The Swat region became predominantly Muslim by the force of the rulers and missionary Sufi saints, whose dargahs dot the landscape of Swat.Arrival of Yousafzais[edit]The first Muslim arrivals in Swat were Pakhtun Dilazak tribes from south-east Afghanistan. These were later ousted by Swati Pakhtuns. They were succeeded in the sixteenth century by Pakhtuns. Both groups of Pakhtuns came from the Kandahar and Kabul Valley.[10]Geography[edit]

Map of Swat districtThe valley of Swat is situated in the north of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa, 35° north latitude and 72° and 30° east longitude, and is enclosed by the mountains. Chitral and Gilgit–Baltistan are situated in the north, Dir in the west, and Mardan in the south. The Indus River separates it from Hazara in the east.Physical features: Swat can be divided into two physical regions - mountains and plains.Mountain ranges[edit]View from Baine Baba Ziarat, looking southwestSwat lies in the lap of mountain ranges, which are the offshoots of Hindukush, so the larger part of Swat is covered with high mountains and hills. The ranges run irregularly: some to the west while the others to the east, but the general direction is north-south. The ranges enclose small valleys.

Eastern rangesIn Swat Kohistan, the chief knot of eastern ranges is Mankial.Its northern branches separate Swat Kohistan from Abasin Kohistan. These ranges form a barrier between Gilgit and Swat, and between Chitral and Swat.The southern extension of Mankial ranges reaches proper Swat. There they join Shangla ranges. Shangla ranges separate proper Swat from Shangla Par area (Shangla Par district).In Shangla district, there are Karora Ranges, which separate Puran from Kanra and Ghurband.The continuation of Shangla ranges joins Dwasaray. On the one hand Dwasaray separates lower Swat from Puran, on the other, it set aside the Buner from Puran.The general direction of the ranges now turns westward and are called Elum. Elum range is a big wall between the proper Swat and Buner. The Elum ranges at last join mountains of Malakand.

Western rangesWestern ranges start from the mountain and hills of Gabral, Swat Kohistan and join the hills of Kundal (Utror).There these ranges meet the Daral Ranges that form a border with Dir district. They run west ward and are named according to the locality. For example Lalko ranges Manrai and Chaprai etc.Then they join the hills of Adenzee and Shamozee.Manrai ranges send off some off shoots southward. They the hills separate Arnoyay valley from the widest valley of Nekpikheil valley.Plains[edit]

The valley of Swat starts from the foothill of Malakand but this section is about Landakay to Gabral (Gulabad), the area within the administrative boundaries of Swat.The length of the valley from Landakay to Gabral is 91 miles. Two narrow strips of plains run along the banks of Swat River from Landakay to Madyan. Beyond Madyan in Swat Kohistan, the width varies but the average width is 5 miles. The widest portion of the valley is between Barikot and Khwaza Khela. A good view point where a major portion of the valley is seen is at Gulibagh on main road, which leads to Madyan. There are some subsidiary valleys called "Daras". A Dara is a narrow passage between mountains, and sometimes, the upper course of a river is also called Dara. Imagining the main valley as a stem of a tree the subsidiary valleys form its branches.

Swat River and its tributaries drain Swat. The boulders and stones are rolled, which causes destruction in the upper courses. When the loaded water reaches areas of low gradient, the heavier materials are deposited. The whole plain of Swat valley is strewn by the running water, and is made up of fine alluvial soil.Cultural Diversity[edit] This section needs additional citations for verification. Please help improve this article by adding citations to reliable sources. Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. (January 2013) Swat has been called "the paradise on earth", and many in Pakistan know about the beauty of Swat valley. Swat used to attract high profile guests to its beauty; indeed, Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip of England visited Swat in 1962. Queen Elizabeth II restricted herself to Swat only and denied the rest of Pakistan a visit.[citation needed] Similarly, in summer thousands of tourists pour to Swat for relief from the scorching sun in the cities.In Swat seven languages are spoken. Besides Pashto, the majority language, Torwali, Gujri, Gawri, Qashqari, Ushojo and Badeshi are also spoken in Swat, although Badeshi and Ushojo are now moribund. Gujri is a commonly known language in Pakistan and its speakers are scattered throughout the whole Swat; however, other languages are much less well known. Torwali, Gawri, Qashqari (a variety of Khowar/Chitrali language), Ushojo and Badeshi are all among the Dardic group of languages of the Indo-Aryan family.

The Torwali community is said to be descended from the original inhabitants of pre-Muslim Swat, before the invasion of Swat in the second millennium. Recent research, and excavation (2012) by the Italian Archeological Mission in Swat, show traces that suggest that the Torwali community was inhabiting Swat even before the Buddhist and Hindu period.[12] The region between the Hindu Kush and the Himalayas – from Nuristan and Laghman provinces in Afghanistan to the bottom of Himalaya including Indian Kashmir via the ranges of Karakorum – was the land of Dardic or Darada (a Romanized name for Herodotus’ Dadakai) people, with indigenous worldviews different from the major religions. The Torwali community is now confined to a part of Swat Kohistan – the upper narrow but beautiful valley beyond the town of Madyan up to the boundary of Kalam in the north; and to the Chail Valley to the east of Madyan. The speakers are a little over 100,000 people.[citation needed]Gawri, another Dardic language, is confined to Kalam and Utror valleys with about 60,000 speakers; however, a considerable number of Gawri language speakers also dwell in the Kohistan of Upper Dir generally known as Dir Kohistan.Qashqari is a variety of Khawar, which is also a Dardic language. Qashqari is spoken by a few thousand people in Kalam and Mitiltan.

Ushojo is now moribund. It is Dardic in origin and resembles the Shina language of Gilgit. It has now a few hundred speakers. Badeshi is now completely extinct; its last two speakers died a couple of years back.[citation needed][timeframe?]These languages are still not well documented. However, endeavours are carried out by the few researchers and civil society workers in the communities. Preservation, documentation and promotion are now being carried out for the Torwali and Gawri languages.Idara Baraye Taleem-o-Taraqi (IBT) or Institute for Education and Development, a Bahrain based, north Pakistan focused, nonprofit organization has developed a working orthography for Torwali and published a number of other books in Torwali. It has designed a course in Torwali for children and runs a Torwali based multilingual education school for children in Bahrain, the cultural and business hub of the Torwali community. IBT recently launched a Torwali based bilingual education project for adult women in the Torwali community, which is deemed as an effective tool to slow down the language shift in the community.In addition to this IBT has published a number of books for adult literacy such as:Inaan (Rainbow), a collection of Torwali poetry with Urdu translationSaath Baach Si Khazan (Treasure of Seven Kings), a collection of Torwali legends and folk stories