beginner...main*: lightweight fabrics such as silk or rayon crepe, shirt-ings, lawn, silk twill,...

zinniab e g i n n e r

1 0 2 7

21027 - zinnia

W I T H T H I S quick and easy skirt pattern, you’ll want to sew a new wardrobe in all your favorite fabrics. Version 1 is gathered and falls below the knee, with a button-front placket and pleated patch pockets. Version 2 is pleated, hits above the knee, and in-cludes belt loops and in-seam pockets. Version 3 is pleated and falls below the knee; it’s lined so it can be made in sheer fabrics.

v e r s i o n 1

v e r s i o n 2

v e r s i o n 3

0 2 4 6 8 10 12 14 16 18

waist 25 26 27 28 29 30 1/2 32 34 36 38hips 35 36 37 38 39 40 1/2 42 44 46 48

45“ 2 1/4 2 1/4 2 3/8 2 3/8 2 1/2 2 1/2 2 1/2 2 5/8 2 5/8 2 3/4

60“ 1 7/8 2 2 2 2 1/8 2 1/4 2 1/4 2 1/4 2 3/8 2 3/8

45“ 2 2 1/8 2 1/8 2 1/4 2 1/4 2 3/8 2 3/8 2 1/2 2 1/2 2 1/2

60“ 1 5/8 1 3/4 1 3/4 1 3/4 1 7/8 1 7/8 1 7/8 2 2 2

45“ 2 1/8 2 1/4 2 1/4 2 3/8 2 3/8 2 1/2 2 1/2 2 1/2 2 5/8 2 5/8

60“ 1 5/8 1 5/8 1 3/4 1 3/4 1 7/8 2 2 1/8 2 1/8 2 1/4 2 1/4

45“ 2 1/8 2 1/4 2 1/4 2 3/8 2 3/8 2 1/2 2 1/2 2 1/2 2 5/8 2 5/8

60“ 1 5/8 1 5/8 1 3/4 1 3/5 1 7/8 2 2 1/8 2 1/8 2 1/4 2 1/4

25“ 7/8 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1

25“ 1 1 1 1 1 1 3/4 1 3/4 1 3/4 1 3/4 1 3/4

waist 25 1/2 26 1/2 27 1/2 28 1/2 29 1/2 31 32 1/2 34 1/2 36 1/2 38 1/2

back length** v. 1 & 3 23 23 1/2 24 24 1/2 25 25 1/2 26 26 1/2 27 27 1/2

back length* V. 2 21 21 1/4 21 1/2 21 3/4 22 22 1/4 22 1/2 22 3/4 23 23 1/4

hem 84 85 86 87 88 89 1/2 91 93 95 97

version 3 - Main fabric*

version 3 - lining fabric*

version 1 - interfacing

version 2 & 3 - interfacing

f i n i s h e d g a r m e n t ( i nc h e s )

version 2 - main fabric*

FA B R IC R E QU I R E D ( ya r d s )

body measurements ( inches )

version 1 - main fabric*

* Main and lining fabrics are cut on the crosswise grain. Take this into account when choosing prints. Not suitable for directional prints.** Back length is measured from the center back of your waist to the hem.

Hand-sewing needle, all-purpose polyester thread. Version 1: Ten 1/2" buttons. Version 2 & 3: One 3/4" button, 9" invisible zipper, invisible zipper foot (recommended).

Main*: Lightweight fabrics such as silk or rayon crepe, shirt-ings, lawn, silk twill, light wool gabardine, wool crepe. Sheer fabrics, eyelet, and lace are suitable for verison 3. Lining* (version 3 only): cotton lawn, cotton bastise, silk or rayon crepe, silk/cotton blends, specialty lining fabrics.

main fabric:

Supplies:

about Zinnia

31027 - zinnia

Pattern Inventory

A b

c d

e

j

k

i

L

h

f

g

skirt front (VERSION 1)

skirt back (VERSION 1)

skirt front (VERSIONS 2 & 3)

skirt back (VERSIONS 2 & 3)

patch pocket (VERSION 1)

pocket facing (VERSION 1)

pocket flap (VERSION 1)

in-seam pocket (VERSION 2)

waistband (VERSION 1)

belt loop (VERSION 2)

waistband (VERSIONS 2 & 3)

placket (VERSION 1)

ABCDEFGHIJKL

41027 - zinnia

Getting StartedGetting StartedIf there's one thing we've noticed, it's that the patterns we get the most use out of are quick and easy, and can be made in almost any fabric. That may seem obvious, but sometimes it's nice to have a little reminder to get back to basics.

Zinnia provides the perfect opportunity to do just that. It is a versatile, ward-robe-building skirt that works with a wide variety of fabric types. Try Version 1 in a chambray for summer, make a tartan skirt for fall with Version 2, or get dressy using chiffon in Version 3. Because Version 3 is lined, it's perfect for experimenting with sheer fabrics such as eyelet and georgette, as well as fabrics like cotton flannel that are prone to static cling.

Zinnia has plenty of interchangeable features. You can switch out the in-seam or patch pockets, and use the belt loops on any version.

FIND YOUR SIZE. Use the body measurements chart on the back cover to determine your size. If you are between sizes, choose the larger size. It is always a good idea to make a test version first to adjust the fit.

LAY IT OUT. Lay out the pattern pieces as shown in the cutting layout diagrams. Start by placing the pieces that go along the fold. Then lay out the other pieces, making sure the grainline arrow is parallel to the selvage. (Measure from each end of the arrow to the fold. Position is correct when distances are exactly the same.)

TRANSFER MARKINGS. Use your marking pen, pencil, or chalk to transfer the markings (such as circles, buttonholes, and fold lines) to the wrong side of the fabric. Mark the center front of pieces cut on the fold, as this will help you to align pieces accurately.

TRACE PIECES. If you are using fabric shears, trace the outlines of the pattern pieces onto your fabric. If you are using a rotary cutter, skip this step.

CUT FABRIC. If you are using a rotary cutter, cut out the pattern pieces. If you are using fabric shears, remove the pattern and cut along the outlines you traced, cutting away any pen, pencil, or chalk lines. Remember to cut out any notches that appear on the edges. These markings help line up the pieces when you assemble the garment.

1

2

3

4

5

51027 - zinnia

Pattern Assembly

AL L V E R S I O NS VE RS I O N 1

V E RS I O N 2 & 3

SEE WHAT OTHER PEOPLE ARE MAKING AT colettepatterns.com/go/gallery!

61027 - zinnia

cutting layouts

M A I N FA B R I C (4 5” ) S I Z E S 0 - 1 8

I N T E R FA C I N G ( 2 5” ) S I Z E S 0 - 1 8

M A I N FA B R I C (6 0 ” ) S I Z E S 0 - 1 8

SEAM ALLOWANCES ARE INCLUDED IN THE PATTERN. THEY ARE A STANDARD 5 8” FOR ALL SEAMS, UNLESS OTHERWISE NOTED IN THE INSTRUCTIONS.

right side of fabric

wrong side of fabric

wrong side of pattern

right (non-adhesive side) of interfacing

1VERSION GATHERED SKIRT

fold

selvage

selv

age

L

A

B

EIG G F

Cut 1

crosswise grain

fold

selvageselv

age

IGF

crosswise grain

ALL PIECES FOR THIS PATTERN ARE CUT ON THE CROSSWISE GRAIN.

fold

selvageselv

age

A

L

B

EI

G G FCut 1

crosswise grain

71027 - zinnia

fold

selvage

selv

age

K

C

H H

D

Cut 1

fold

selvage

selv

age K

CH

H

D

Cut 1

crosswise grain

crosswise grain

Cut 1

Cut 1

fold

selvage

selvage

selv

age se

lvag

e

K

C

H

H

D

J

K

Cut 1

Cut 1

crosswise grain

crosswise grain

2VERSION PLEATED SKIRT


M A I N FA B R I C (6 0 ” ) S I Z E S 1 0 - 1 8

M A I N FA B R I C (6 0 ” ) S I Z E S 0 - 8


J

J

81027 - zinnia

fold

selv

age selvage

C

D

K

Cut 1

crosswise grain

fold

selv

age selvage

C D

K

Cut 1

crosswise grain

fold

selv

age selvage

C

D

K

Cut 1

crosswise grain

fold

selv

age selvage

C

D

K

Cut 1

crosswise grain

3VERSION LINED PLEATED SKIRT


M A I N FA B R I C (6 0 ” ) S I Z E S 1 0 - 1 8

M A I N FA B R I C (6 0 ” ) S I Z E S 0 - 8

L I N I N G FA B R I C (4 5” ) S I Z E S 0 - 1 8

91027 - zinnia

fold

selv

age selvage

C D

K

Cut 1

crosswise grain

fold

selv

age selvage

C

D

K

Cut 1

crosswise grain

selv

age selvage

K

crosswise grain

L I N I N G FA B R I C (6 0 ” ) S I Z E S 0 - 8

L I N I N G FA B R I C (6 0 ” ) S I Z E S 1 0 - 1 8


selvage

• Topstitch in a contrasting thread color.

• Sew a matching belt in your main fabric.

• Add trim along the hem.

• Lengthen the skirt to make it a midi or maxi style.

• Use a striped or plaid fabric and cut the placket and pocket flaps on the bias.

• Try experimenting with different types of buttons.

• Download pocket variations for version 1 at: colettepatterns.com/go/pocket-variations

customize it

http://colettepatterns.com/go/pocket-variations

101027 - zinnia

instructions

A P P LY I N T E R FA C I N G

S E W P O C K E T S

1VERSION GATHERED SKIRT

1. Apply fusible interfacing to the wrong sides of two pocket flaps (G), pocket

facing (F), and the waistband (I).

G

G I

F F

E

E

F

1. On the right side of the patch pocket (E), bring the outer fold lines together so the wrong sides face each other.

2. Turn the patch pocket (E) to the wrong side. Press the box pleat flat, folding along the solid inner fold lines to form a pleat. Stitch at 1/4" along the top and bottom edges of the pocket to secure the pleat.

3. On the pocket facing (F), fold on the fold line towards the wrong side and press.

pressing pockets

For perfectly formed patch pockets, cut a template out of thin cardboard or manila to assist you with pressing. Make it the same size as your pocket piece, minus the folds and seam allowances.

To press the edges under, lay your template over the pocket piece and press the edges around it. Your pressed seams will be even, and both pockets will be identical in shape.

pleating

WWWIt is very important to make sure your pleats are as precise as possible for the final fit. For more information and tips visit:

colettepatterns.com/go/pleating

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E

F

E

F

1. Place an interfaced pocket flap (G) on top of an uninterfaced flap, right sides together. Using a 1/4" seam allowance, stitch along the curved edge of the flap.

2. Notch the curves and turn the flap so that the right sides face out. Press.

G

1. Using a 1/4" seam allowance, topstitch along the curved edge of the flap.

2. Repeat for the second pocket flap (G).

G

S E W P O C K E T F L A P S

4. With right sides together, place pocket facing

(F) on top of patch pocket (E), aligning the top edges. Using a 3/8" seam allowance, stitch pocket facing (F) to patch pocket (E) along top and sides, pivoting at each corner.

5. Clip the corners. Turn facing under so it is right side out. Press.

6. Turn the remaining edges under 3/8" and notch the curves. Press.

7. Repeat for second pocket.

clipping and notching curves

Notching and clipping are techniques that help inner and outer curved seams lie f lat.

When an inner curve is turned under, it needs to spread; when an outer curve is turned, it needs to compress.

To notch an outer curve, simply cut small tri-angles of fabric almost up to the seam line to remove the excess fabric. To clip an inner curve, make small cuts almost up to the seam line to al-low the fabric to spread.

notch outer curves

clip inner curves

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1. Place the top edge of the patch pocket (E) between the lower small circles on the skirt front (A).

2. Edgestitch the patch pocket (E) in place along the curved edge. Sew small triangles at the top of the pocket to reinforce corners.

3. Place the pocket flap (G) between the upper small circles on the skirt front (A), with the curved edge facing upward.

G

E

1. Trim the front of the right-hand side of the skirt

front (A). The trim line is marked on the pattern piece (A) at 1 1/4" from the front edge.

2. Place the right side of the placket (L) on the wrong side of the right-hand skirt front (A). Sew together along the front edge.

G

E

AL

Zinnia (Version 1) has a menswear-style placket for a clean, tailored finish. The right-hand side of the skirt front (A) has a self-faced placket (L) that is attached after trimming the marked edge of the skirt front. The left-hand side of the skirt front (A) is finished by folding the raw edges to the wrong side.

S E W P O C K E T S A N D F L A P S T O S K I R T

S E W S K I R T P L A C K E T

4. Stitch along straight edge using a 1/4" seam allowance.

5. Trim the seam allowance to 1/8".

6. Press the pocket flap (G) downward.

7. Stitch the pocket flap (G) down, stitching 1/4" from your first stitching line.

8. Repeat for the second pocket and flap.

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4. Fold along the first fold line towards the second fold line on the right side of placket (L). Press.

LA 5. Turn the pressed fold over the second fold line. Press.

A

L

3. Turn the skirt front (A) so the right side is facing up. Fold the placket (L) out and press the seam allowance towards the placket.

LA

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A

A

A

L

6. Turn the placket (L) over the seam allowance and onto the right side of the skirt front (A).

7. Edgestitch the placket (L) in place along both sides of the placket.

8. On the left-hand skirt front (A), fold along the first fold line towards the wrong side of the skirt. Press.

9. Turn the pressed fold over the second fold line and onto the wrong side of skirt front (A). Press.

10. Edgestitch along each side of the fold.

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1. Using a long stitch, sew three parallel rows along the waistline between the two placket areas, leaving long thread tails. Start stitching 5/8" from the edge, and add another row 3/8" from the edge. Stitch a third row 3/4" from the edge.

2. Pull threads gently to gather.

AA B

1. With right sides together, stitch the skirt front (A) to skirt back (B) at the side seam, matching notches.

2. Finish seams and press open.

3. Repeat for the opposite side.

AB

I

1. Fold the waistband (I) in half lengthwise, right sides together. Press.

2. Stitch along the short edges of the waistband. Trim the seam allowance and clip the corners.

J O I N S I D E S E A M S

G AT H E R T H E WA I S T

AT TA C H WA I S T B A N D

gathering

WWWWhy three rows of long gathering stitches instead of the typical two? Three rows give even gathers with fewer lumps and bumps. See this demonstrated at:

colettepatterns.com/go/gathering

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AA B

I

1. Open out the waistband (I) as much as possible.

2. With right sides together, pin the waistband (I) to the skirt at the waistline, matching the large circles on the waistband to the side seams on the skirt. Adjust the gathers of the skirt to match the waistband (I). The edge of the skirt should line up with the edge of the waistband (I).

3. Stitch across the top edge of the waistband (I), making sure to sew through only one side of the waistband.

4. Turn the waistband (I) right side out. Press.

5. On the side you have not yet stitched, press 5/8" towards the wrong side of the waistband (I).

6. Turn the waistband (I) over the seam allowance. Pin the waistband in place, making sure to cover the seamline of the waistband (I) and skirt.

7. On the wrong side of the skirt, baste along the bottom edge of the waistband (I), making sure that the folded edge is covering the seamline of the waistband and skirt.

AA B

I

cover the seam allowance and stitch line

8. Edgestitch along the bottom edge of the right side of the waistband (I), making sure to catch the folded edge on the opposite side.

9. Remove the basting.

10. Edgestitch along the top edge of the right side of the waistband (I).

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1. Stitch buttonholes at placement marks on the right-hand side of the skirt front

(A) and waistband (I).

2. Sew buttons in matching positions on the left-hand side of the skirt front (A) and waistband (I).

1. Staystitch a scant 5/8" from the waistline on the skirt front (C) and skirt back (D) pieces. C

D D

1. Turn the lower edge under 1/4" and press.

2. Turn again 3/8" and press.

3. Edgestitch close to the top fold. Press.

1. Apply fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the waistband (K).K

S E W C L O S U R E S

H E M

S TAY S T I T C H WA I S T B A N D

I N T E R FA C E WA I S T B A N D

2VERSION PLEATED SKIRT

Staystitching around curved edges (such as necklines) prevents stretching and distortion of the fabric, so it's easier to align pieces later. Simply machine stitch along the edge, slightly within the seam allowance.

why should you staystitch?

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1. On the right side of the skirt front (C), bring each set of dotted lines and small circles together to form a pleat. A fold will form on the wrong side of the skirt. Pin in place. Do the same on both pieces of the skirt back (D).

2. With right sides facing, baste the pleats from the top of the waist down to the small circle.

3. Smooth the pleats towards the side seam. Press.

C

1. On the right sides of the skirt front (C) and skirt back (D), topstitch close to the fold of each pleat. Start at the top of the waist and backstitch at the small circle.

2. Remove basting from pleats.

S E W P L E AT S

T O P S T I T C H P L E AT S

pleating



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HC

H

C

1. Finish the raw side seams of the skirt front

(C), skirt back (D), and outer curved edge of in-seam pocket (H).

2. On right side of the skirt front (C), place one in-seam pocket (H) piece along the edge, wrong side up, matching up the small circles.

3. Stitch at 3/8" along the edge from the top to bottom of the in-seam pocket (H).

4. Repeat for the other side of the skirt front (C).

5. On right side of skirt back (D), place one in-

seam pocket (H) piece along the edge, wrong side up, matching up the small circles.

6. Stitch at 3/8" along the edge from the top to bottom of the in-seam pocket (H).

7. Repeat the process of attaching the in-seam

pocket (H) for the second skirt back (D) piece.

8. Turn the pockets away from the skirt and press the seams.

1. With right sides together, stitch skirt front

(C) to skirt back (D) pieces at the side seams, matching notches. When you get to the pocket, stitch in a continuous line around the curve of the pocket, pivoting at the small circles.

JH

AT TA C H I N - S E A M P O C K E T S

S E W S I D E S E A M S

invisible zippers

WWWIf you’re new to invisible zippers, be sure to check out our extensive tutorials, includ-ing a short video.

colettepatterns.com/go/invisible-zipper

press

201027 - zinnia

1. Fold the waistband (K) in half lengthwise, with right sides together. Press.

2. Beginning at the fold, stitch along the short edges of the waistband (K), pivoting at the open edge and sewing to the button extension line. Trim the seam allowance and clip the corners.

3. Open out the waistband (K) as much as possible.

4. With right sides together, pin the waistband (K) to the skirt at the waistline, matching the large circles on the waistband to the side seams on the skirt. The edge of the button extension should line up with the right edge of the skirt back (D). Make sure the pleats are evenly aligned.

5. Stitch across the top edge of the waistband (K), making sure to sew through only one side of the waistband.

6. Turn the waistband (K) right side out. Press.

7. On the side of the waistband (K) you have not yet stitched, press 5/8" towards the wrong side.

8. Turn the waistband (K) over the seam allow-ance. Pin the waistband (K) in place, making sure to cover the seamline of the waistband and skirt.

9. On the wrong side of the skirt, baste along the bottom edge of the waistband (K), making sure that the folded edge is covering the seamline of the waistband (K) and skirt.

10. Edgestitch along the bottom edge of the right side of the waistband (K), making sure to catch the fold on the opposite side.


12. Edgestitch along the top edge of the waistband

(K) on the right side.

K

K

D

K

D

K

Dcover the seam allowance and stitch line


211027 - zinnia

1. With right sides together, fold the belt loop ( J) in half lengthwise.

2. Stitch down the length of the folded belt loop ( J) 1/4" from the folded edge, leaving a long tail of thread at one end.

3. Trim the seam allowance to a scant 1/8".

4. Turn the belt belt loop ( J) out using a bodkin or a hand-sewing needle (see tip).

5. Press flat, with the seam in the center back.

6. Cut the belt loops apart at the dotted lines.

J

JK

7. Turn raw edges of each belt loop under 1/8" and press.

8. Space the belt loops evenly around the waistband (K). Center one belt loop over each set of pleats, and one over each side seam.

9. Stitch into place at the top and bottom of each belt loop, as close to the folded edge as possible.

10. Trim away any excess raw edges from under the belt loops.

1. Stitch buttonhole at placement mark on the buttonhole extension of the waistband (K).

2. Sew the button in matching position on the left-hand side of waistband (K).




M A K E B E LT L O O P S


H E M

turning belt loops

To turn a loop with a hand-sewing needle, begin by threading the long tail of thread through the needle. Double the thread over and tack into place with a few stitches so the ends are secured to the tube. Plac-ing the blunt end through first so you don’t pierce the fabric, pass the needle through the middle of the tube and out the other end. Pull on the thread to turn the tube right side out.

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1. Staystitch a scant 5/8" from the waistline on the skirt front (C) and skirt back (D) pieces.

1. Apply fusible interfacing to the wrong side of the waistband (K) lining.

2. With right side of waistband (K) lining facing wrong side of the waistband (K) fabric, stitch together using a 1/2" seam allowance.

C

D D

K

D

1. Create the skirt shell. With right sides together, stitch the skirt front (C) to the skirt back (D) pieces at the side seams, matching notches.

2. Finish the side seams and press. For sheer fabrics, a French seam is recommended.

3. Repeat for the skirt front (C) and skirt back (D) lining pieces.

C D

S TAY S T I T C H WA I S T B A N D

U N D E R L I N E WA I S T B A N D

S E W S I D E S E A M S

3VERSION LINED PLEATED SKIRT

This skirt has been designed with sheer fabrics in mind, so the right side of the lining faces outward. If you’re working with an opaque fabric, you may want to consider sewing the skirt so that the right side of the lining faces towards your body for a clean finish.

lining fabric

french seam

WWWFrench seams give sheer fabrics a clean, professional finish. See our tutorial at:

colettepatterns.com/go/french-seam

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1. On the right side of the skirt front

(C) and skirt back (D), topstitch close to the fold of each pleat. Start from the top of the waist and backstitch at the small circle.

2. Remove basting from the pleats.

1. With the right side of the skirt lining facing the wrong side of the skirt shell, baste the pieces together at the waist. C DD

C

2. With right sides facing, baste pleats on the lining side of the skirt. Start at the waist and stitch down each dotted line to the small circle. Make sure the fabric and lining are evenly folded in the pleat.

3. Smooth the pleats towards the side seam. Press.

C

1. On the right side of the skirt, bring each set of dotted lines and small circles together to form a pleat, making sure to catch the lining in the pleat. A fold should form on the wrong side of the lining. Pin.

AT TA C H L I N I N G T O S H E L L

S E W P L E AT S

T O P S T I T C H P L E AT S

pleating



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DD

1. Finish each raw edge of the center back seam separately.

2. Using your invisible zipper foot, install the invisible zipper at the back of the skirt above the large circle, aligning the top of the zipper tape with the waist. Stitch through both the shell and lining.

3. With the lining and shell together, stitch the back seam closed below the zipper. Press open.

K

1. Fold the waistband (K) in half lengthwise, with right sides together. Press.

2. Stitch along the short edges of the waistband (K). Pivot at the right edge and sew to the button extension line. Trim the seam allowance and clip the corners.

3. Open out the waistband (K) as much as possible.

4. With right sides together, pin the waistband (K) to the skirt at the waistline, matching the large circles on the waistband to the side seams of the skirt. The edge of the button extension should line up with the right edge of the skirt back (D). Make sure that the pleats are evenly aligned.

5. Stitch across the top edge of the waistband (K).

6. Turn the waistband (K) right side out. Press.

7. On the side of the waistband (K) you have not yet stitched, press 5/8" towards the wrong side of the waistband.

K

I N S TA L L Z I P P E R


invisible zippers

WWWIf you’re new to invisible zippers, be sure to check out our extensive tutorials, includ-ing a short video.

colettepatterns.com/go/invisible-zipper

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K

D

8. Turn the waistband (K) over the seam allowance. Pin the waistband in place, making sure to cover the seamline of the waistband and skirt.

9. On the wrong side of the skirt, baste along the bottom edge of the waistband (K), making sure that the folded edge is covering the seamline of the waistband (K) and skirt.

1. Stitch buttonhole at placement mark on the buttonhole extension of the waistband (K).

2. Sew the button in matching position on the left-hand side of waistband (K).

1. Trim the lining by 1".




10. Edgestitch along the bottom edge of the right side of the waistband (I), making sure to catch the fold on the opposite side.


12. Edgestitch along the top edge of the waistband (K) on the right side.




cover the seam allowance and stitch line

GET IDEAS, INSPIRATION, AND HELPFUL HINTS ON OUR BLOG: COLETTERIE.COM


H E M


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glossary

BA S TE Long stitches done by hand or ma-chine that temporarily hold fabric in place before sewing. They are re-moved once the f inal seam is in place.

C L I P To help f latten a curved seam, snip at even intervals along the inner curve, being careful not to cut into the stitch line.

E A SE To sew a longer edge to a shorter edge, resulting in slight fullness. First, stitch two parallel rows using a long stitch length. Next, leave long thread tails: tug to adjust length of longer edge before sewing.

E D G E S T ITC H Adding a second row of stitches close to the seam line on the right side of the fabric. This is done very close to the stitches of the seam line and on the right side of the fabric.

F I N ISH SE AM There are many ways to f inish a seam or raw edge to get a neat look and prevent fraying. For sturdy fabrics, just trim seams with pinking shears. For lighter fabrics, use a zigzag stitch along the seam. Other methods of f inishing include turned-under seams, bound edges, and serged edges.

GATH E R To sew a longer edge to a shorter edge, resulting in signif icant fullness. Use a long stitch length and stitch two rows parallel to each other. Leave long thread tails which can be tugged to adjust ease before you sew.

G R AD E SE AM Reducing the bulk in seams that are pressed in a single direction. After the seam is sewn, trim the seam allowance in half. Then, identify which seam allowance will be laying against the fabric once it is pressed, and trim this one in half.

N OTC H The notches on a pattern help align the pattern pieces when you sew them together. Another type of notch is one that is added by the sewist when sewing an outside curved seam. These notches are added by cutting edge shapes into the seam allowance at even intervals, being careful not to cut into the stitching.

RI G HT S I D E/WRO N G S I D E

The right side of the fabric will show on a f inished garment; the wrong side will be on the inside.

S TAYS T ITC H Stitching that stabilizes a piece of fab-ric before it is sewn to prevent the edge from being stretched or distorted.

TO P S T ITC H Stitching on the outside of a garment that is parallel to, and 1⁄4-inch from, the seam. Sew through fabric and seam allowance after pressing to help the seam lay f lat. Similar to edgestitching, but more noticeable.

U N D E RS T ITC H Stitching that helps seams lie f lat and prevents facings and linings from rolling to the outside of the garment. Press the seam towards your facing, then stitch the facing to the seam, very close to the seam line. See: colettepatterns.com/go/understitch

271027 - zinnia

my notes

beginner...main*: lightweight fabrics such as silk or rayon crepe, shirt-ings, lawn, silk twill,...

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