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Belgrade and Serbia Visitors Magazine Volume 13, SUMMER 2013 free copy

BELGRADE TOP ATTRACTIONS

CITY EVENTS & SIGHTSEEING

EXHIBITION ROMAN HERITAGE IN SERBIA

INTERVIEW PETER HANDKE

TOS RECOMMENDS THE RADAN AREA CLUSTER

SAVAMALA REVEALING THE FORGOTTEN CITY

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IN THIS ISSUE / IZ SADRAJA

6 S A V A M A L A REVEALING THE FORGOTTEN CITY OTKRIVANJE ZABORAVLJENOG GRADA

14 BELGRADE TOP ATTRACTIONS

2 0 I N T E R V I E W - P E T E R H A N D K E WRITING IS A SYMBOL OF LIFE PISANJE JE SIMBOL IVOTA

30 L I T E R A R Y G U I D E - J A N K O V E S E L I N O V I IF YOUVE FALLEN DOWN, RISE AGAIN AKO SI PAO, TI USTANI OPET

38 T O S R E C O M M E N D S - E X H I B I T I O N THE BIRTH OF CHRISTIANITY IN THE ROMAN

PROVINCES IN THE TERRITORY OF SERBIA RAANJE HRIANSTVA U RIMSKIM PROVINCIJAMA NA TLU SRBIJE

4 8 S I E P A P R E S E N T S CREATIVE SPACE SERBIA KREATIVNI PROSTOR SRBIJE

5 2 I N T E R V I E W - J O V A N R A D O M I R SOUL ON A PLATE DUA NA TANJIRU

58 BELGRADE SIGHTSEEING RAZGLEDANJE BEOGRADA

73 TO S R E CO M M E N D S - T H E R A DA N A R E A C LU S T E R A MAGIC BALL WORLD SVET IZ AROBNE KUGLE

84 BELGRADE INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS BEOGRADSKE MEUNARODNE KOLE

96 BELGRADE INFO

Belgrade&Serbia Visitors Magazine

Publisher - Izdava:Izdavako drutvo PONT d.o.o., BeogradGoka 18 tel./fax 2332-803; mob tel. 063/84 97 582e-mail: [email protected], [email protected] - Suizdava:Turistika organizacija Beograda, Masarikova 5/IXtel. 3061-410 fax 3061-414e-mail: [email protected] - Izdava:Milena Mihalji, direktorCopublisher - Suizdava:Dejan Veselinov, direktorEditor-in-chief - Glavni i odgovorni urednik:Dragana MarkoviEditorial Staff - Redakcija:Milena Mihalji, Dragana Markovi, Jadranka orevi Contributors - Saradnici: Jelena Tasi, Jovo Ani, Dragana Barjaktarevi,

Aleksandar Miloradovi, Viktorija iriPhotographs- Fotografije:ore Rusi, Darimir Banda, Branko Jovanovi, Nikola VukojeviTranslation - Prevod:ore JankoviSerbian language editor - Lektor za srpski:Mila BarjaktareviEnglish language editor - Lektor za engleski:Vladimir Petrovi, Ida HerculesInformation - Informacije:Pont i Turistika organizacija BeogradaMarketing:PONTDesign&Layout - Dizajn i prelom:Miroslav ZeljugPrint - tampa:Birograf, Beograd

BelGuest quarterly is registered with the Republicof Serbia media registry no: 651-03-168/2000-03BelGuest magazin upisan je u registar glasilaRepublike Srbije pod brojem: 651-03-168/2000-03 copyright: Pont & Belgrade Tourist Organization

Front Page - Naslovna strana: Graffiti in Travnika Street, Savamala, detail, photo: ore Rusi

CIP - Katalogizacija u publikacijiNarodna biblioteka Srbije, Beograd

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BelGuest : Belgrade visitors magazine /editor-in-chief Dragana Markovi. - 2001, winter/spring - Beograd : Pont, 2001- (Beograd : Birograf). - 28 cmDostupno i na: http://www.belguest.rs. - Tromeseno. - Sa specijalnim izdanjem 2010: Dogaaji BeogradaISSN 1451-6446 = Bel GuestCOBISS.SR-ID 71794956

E D I T O R I A L | U V O D N I K

Skuptina grada BeogradaCity Assembly of Belgrade

Turistika organizacija BeogradaTourist Organization of Belgrade

D e a r f e l l o w r e s i d e n t s o f B e l g r a d e a n d d e a r g u e s t s , Belgrade, one of the oldest cities in Europe, of extraordinary history and a very turbulent past, always of inter-

est to tourists and numerous visitors, is in a position to surprise you and stir up your spirits. Through a number of programmes organised by the Tourist Organisation of Belgrade (TOB), we recommend you to visit and discover the ancient Kalemegdan and Belgrade Fortress, Knez Mihailova Street and the city centre, the largest Orthodox temple in the Balkans, the Temple of Saint Sava, as well as the old part of Zemun.

Experience the soul of old Belgrade with music in the relaxed bohemian quarter of Skadarlija, get down to the river and the old Savamala, fully discover innovative forms of creative spots, the meeting places for designers, artists, creative, modernists, dreamers about the more beautiful and better, that keep the memory of the rich history, the builders and benefactors who were building Belgrade.

The Secretariat for the Economy of the City of Belgrade and the Tourist Organisation are investing maximum efforts so that Belgrade, with its old palaces and public edifices, numerous museums, Topider, ambient parts and heritage of different eras and cultures, be a centre of cultural tourism in this part of Europe, especially this year when through a number of programmes Serbia is celebrating a big anniversary seventeen centuries of the Edict of Milan, which established freedom of Christian faith.

The offer is also becoming richer and richer for the young and adventurous ones, who will find entertainment in green oases, at the Great War Island, in a kayaking adventure, discovering underground dungeons of Belgrade, with relaxation or adrenaline programmes at Ada Ciganlija lake or Avala mountain, enjoying the view of Serbia from the Avala Tower, attending the Avala Cultural Summer or more than 150 programmes showing the diversity of heritage during the event European Heritage Days.

Belgrade, known for its hospitality, unique by the richness and diversity of its openness, is awaiting you.

Stanija ViekrunaDeputy Secretary at the Secretariat for the Economy of the City of Belgrade

D r a g i s u g r a a n i i d r a g i g o s t i ,

Beograd, jedan od najstarijih evropskih gradova, nesvakidanje istorije i burne prolosti, uvek e biti zanimljiv turistima i brojnim posetiocima, u mogunosti da vas iznenadi i oduevi. Koristei se mnogobrojnim programima Turistike orga-nizacije Beograda obiite ga i upoznajte drevni Kalemegdan i Beogradsku tvravu, Knez Mihailovu ulicu i centar grada, najvei pravoslavni hram na Balkanu, Hram Svetog Save, staro jezgro Zemuna.

Osetite duu starog Beograda oputeno uz muziku u boemskoj Skadarliji, spustite se do reka i stare Savamale, otkrijte potpuno nove oblike kreativnih mesta, stecite dizajnera, muziara, kreativaca, modernista, sanjara o lepem i boljem, koji uvaju seanje na bogatu prolost, na neimare i zadubinare koji su gradili Beograd.

Sekretarijat za privredu grada Beograda i Turistika organizacija ulau maksimalne napore da Beograd, sa starim dvoro-vima i gradskim zdanjima, brojnim muzejima, Topiderom, ambijentalnim celinama i nasleem razliitih epoha i kultura, bude centar kulturnog turizma ovog dela Evrope, naroito ove godine kada se raznovrsnim programima u Srbiji obeleava 17 vekova od donoenja Milanskog edikta, kojim je utemeljena sloboda hrianstva.

Ponuda je sve bogatija i zanimljivija i za mlade i avanturiste, koji e zabavu nai na zelenim oazama, na Velikom ratnom ostrvu, u kajak avanturi, otkrivajui lagume podzemnog Beograda, uz oputanje ili adrenalin programe na Adi Ciganliji ili Avali, uivajui u pogledu na Srbiju sa Avalskog tornja i Avalskom kulturnom letu ili u 150 programa koji otkrivaju raznovrsnost naslea tokom manifestacije Dani evropske batine.

Beograd Vas eka prepoznatljiv po gostoprimstvu, jedinstven po bogatstvu i raznolikosti ponuda i svojoj otvorenosti.

Stanija Viekruna Zamenik sekretara Sekretarijata za privredu Grada Beograda

BelGuest SUMMER | LETO 2013 5

REVEALING THE FORGOTTEN CITY

Savamala is often referred to as the invisible city. It is invisible because it lacks beauty at first glance and because walking around this area means that you have to avoid the trucks and stumble over railway tracks. Once this prov-ing ground is overcome, a different Savamala is revealed to you, the one thats filled with the smell of Turkish delight from the shop of the candy maker

Bosilji, the one with laughter and jazz com-ing from the hidden gardens, the one sharing its concrete streets with street artists, the one whose walls still remember the liberation of Belgrade from the Ottoman rule as well as the Saturday night parties at the clubs Mladost (Youth) and Ludost (Craziness)... It is this other Savamala, which is both sentimental and modern at the same

time, that makes it worth exploring.Savamala sits in the shadow of Brankos Bridge

and Belgrades beautiful, old buildings along the right bank of the river Sava. This river, which has often washed the streets of Savamala, gave its name to the neighbourhood. The second part of the name comes from the Turkish word mahala, later shortened to mala, meaning neighbourhood.

At first glance, the cracked faades in a cloud of smoke from heavy traffic, but the deposits of soot and time conceal a timeless treasure trove full of hidden details, stories and big names. Some will say that its the ugliest, others that its the most beautiful part of the city. Savamala certainly is the most unusual neighbourhood and one of the most charming tourist attractions that Belgrade offers.

S a v a M a L a

6 Summer | Leto 2013 BelGuest

Nobody knows the exact boundaries of the area. It once used to stretch all the way to Slavija. Last year, German architects cooperating with Goethe-Guerilla asked the locals to indicate the borders of Savamala on a map. Each made a different outline, guided by their own personal sense of geography. However, no one left out the three keystones of Savamala Brankos Bridge, Karaoreva Street and Gavrila Principa Street.

BRANKOS BRIDGEDuring the day it sways with traffic, at night it

swings with the music flowing from Brankow, a club located at the foot of the bridge. Most of the sleepy passengers and wide-awake clubbers havent got the remotest idea what kind of history surrounds their daily routes and night partying.

Brankos bridge was the first road bridge over the Sava; the first bridge built without intermediate supports; the first bridge crossed by a tram. It

was opened on 16th December 1934. Earlier that autumn, the King aleksandar I Karaorevi was assassinated in Marseille. Originally, the bridge was named to his honour King aleksandars Bridge. The spectacular opening ceremony involved 700 horsemen from the royal cavalry crossing the bridge. However, the bridge was short-lived. To prevent the German invasion of Belgrade, it was mined by the royal army, and suffered a complete destruction in the allied bombing of 1944. Only the stone pillars survived, which were used after the war to build the Brotherhood and Unity Bridge, known popularly as Brankos Bridge. as Belgrade was a fast developing city and the traffic grew heavier, the width of the bridge had to be doubled in the 1970s.

Savamala is reachable from various directions, but the most beautiful approach is the one from Brankos Bridge, commanding the view of nearly all of the area. From the left, the passengers are hailed by the citys guardian Guillaume alby Remeds mural La Santa del Belgrado. On the right, one can see the bareheaded Spanish House and the red lanterns of the centre for culture Grad (City).

The Spanish House was built around the year 1880. at the time, it was one of the most magnifi-cent palaces in Savamala. It had been used by the Port of Belgrade, then as a customs house, then as a warehouse; it was also used by the Serbian Shipping Company, and for a while it served as the Museum of Inland Waterway Shipping. During the past fifty years, it has had five different tenants, because the reconstruction work has often been

halted for financial reasons. Today this roofless, windowless building is the headquarters of the Urban Incubator project, aimed at the revival of Savamala. The plan is to build a glass art pavilion at the location in the course of the next year, and to gradually turn it into a venue for Goethe Institute programmes.

Right next to the Old Customs House used to be its warehouse. The old warehouse was built in 1884, and since 2009 it has housed the centre for culture Grad, at the initiative of the Cultural Front of Belgrade and the Felix Meritis foundation from amsterdam. The authentic, rustic ambience of the old warehouse, the off-the-wall interventions by the Remake creative artists, the memorable fash-ion details in Gradstor and Takeaway Fashion, the upstairs gallery, the cosy garden and the amateur cuisine on Deli Mondays are just some of the rea-sons this is one of the favourite spots of the citys artists and art lovers.

KARAOREVA STREETSavamalas main street. Noisy and dusty. an

artery for the inbound road traffic from Panevo Bridge. There are also the river Sava, the keen anglers and the smart restaurants overlooking the confluence, the Dream Factory, Mikser House, the mysterious underground passages as well as the neglected, romantic faades.

The street was named after Karaore, the leader of the First Serbian Uprising, who advanced down this very street on the Belgrade Fortress with his rebels seeking to liberate it from the Ottomans.

Project Studio Krishka: Ghost People of Savamala

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In 1833, Serbia gained autonomy and the gov-ernment was based in Belgrade. Prince Milo Obrenovi decided to build a modern city on the bank of the Sava, modelled on the architecture of European river cities such as vienna or Budapest. He had some hundred hovels pulled down, and their tenants relocated to the Palilula municipal-ity. Savamala attracted merchants and artisans, so the area became the main commercial hub and home to the elites of the city. The buildings that sprang up on the foundations of the tumbledown houses retain their historical and cultural signifi-cance to this day. The most important of these is the former building of the Belgrade Cooperative. This monumental corner building was constructed by the investor Luka elovi from the plans drawn up by the architects andra Stevanovi and Nikola Nestorovi. Its construction employed a state-of-

the-art technique utilising reinforced concrete, and the faades were made of faux rock. after the Second World War, it changed many hands and purposes, its longest lasting tenant being the Serbian Geological Institute. The Geological Institute was once declared the most beautiful building in Belgrade. Many Belgraders would still agree with this statement, even though the build-ing has long since lost its dazzle. In recent decades it has been additionally ravaged by its use as a venue for parties, New Years Eve celebrations, festivals, and by the use of its derelict rooms as filming locations.

The famous gems of Belgrades architecture dat-ing back to the beginning of the last century on the square that was once home to the Small Marketplace the Geological Institute, Hotel Bristol and vuos House have recently been joined by

Mikser House. This modernist edifice was conceived as a focal point of the citys future creative industry, as a haunt for designers, musicians and dream-ers of a better and prettier Belgrade. It houses a design shop where visitors can buy the creations of 60 designers from around the Balkans, ranging from furniture and couture to wine and delicacies. Theres also the Mikser Canteen with its scrump-tious and tastefully presented Balkan dishes, a coffee shop, a stage for theatre and music events, a common work area, and a childrens corner.

GAVRILA PRINCIPA STREETThe second most important street, right after

Karaoreva Street, is Gavrila Principa Street. It was first called Savamalska, then Bosanska, and today it is named after Gavrilo Princip, who lived here in a small, single-storey house while he was employed laying cobblestones in Karaoreva Street. Gavrilo Princip lived at several locations in this part of the city. When he arrived in Belgrade in the spring of 1912, he took up residence at 12 Carice Milice Street. afterwards, he moved to 47 Lomina Street, only to settle eventually in Bosanska Street.

Gavrila Principa Street was the main commercial district of this part of Savamala. The only surviving artisan shop that dates back to the time is the candy shop Bosilji. It was founded in 1936, and to this day the candy is made by hand, using

Mikser Festival: Savamala in transitThe largest regional festival of creativity and innovation took place at the end of May and ithe beginning of June in Savamala on a swathe of land alongside the river from the Bristol Hotel to the Concrete Hall (Beton-hala), spanning across more than 15 hectares of the citys area. The aim of the festival was to revitalise the citys riverbanks and to draw Belgraders to the Sava in massive numbers. Last year, Mikser examined the present state of Savamala, and this year it deals with its future. The topic of this years festival is Transit, and the goal is to discuss the identity of Savamala with experts, the City of Belgrade and the Savski Venac municipality, the local community and creative youth, as well as to outline the development scheme for this area of great cultural significance to the city.

Graffiti in Travnika Street


the original, unaltered recipes. The boarding up of shops was brought about by the pressures of indus-trial manufacturing, the crisis and the impoverish-ment of the population in the last twenty years, as well as the old craftsmens descendants lack of interest in the trades.

apart from the commercial and artisan shops, the street was also home to many taverns. The only one that remains to this day is Manaks House, albeit with a different purpose. Manaks House is one of the few surviving monuments of Balkan oriental architecture. apart from the edifice, the city centre contains only a few other examples of this architectural style, such as the tavern Question Mark, Princess Ljubicas Residence, the Museum of vuk and Dositej... Manaks House was built around the year 1830. It was named after its owner

Manak Mihailovi, a merchant and Macedonian immigrant. It is located on an old thoroughfare that used to connect varo Gate and Savamala. The reason for the irregular shape of the house was the plot of land on which it was originally built. The ground floor contained a tavern and a bakery, and later a post office and a shop, while the second floor contained the owners living quarters. Today it houses a section of the Ethnographic Museum with a rich ethnographic collection by Hristifor Crnilovi containing approximately 2,600 objects of great cultural significance, mostly traditional costumes and jewellery. apart from the valuable exhibition of garments and ornaments, the lower, basement

level of Manaks House also contains workshops dedicated to the study of certain traditional trades and folk crafts.

all of this is just a small part of what Savamala has to offer behind its fences and windows, just a slight nudge to immerse you in an exploration of a somewhat forgotten city, an invitation to cre-ate new narratives around Belgrades lovely Sava Slope. Because it exists only if we talk about it.

DrAGANA BArJAKtAreVIphotographs: ore ruSI & DrAGANA BArJAKtAreVI

Urban InCubator: Who does the city belong to?The Goethe Institutes unique project called Urban Incubator is aimed at the development of Savamala. In this project, Savamalas future wont be determined by urban planners, politicians and investors, but by the artists, architects and various activists, who will put in a years worth of effort to revitalise the area. The project also involves the residents of Savamala and urges them to consider the future of their neighbourhood.


Wall painting in Mostarska Street


Project of the Mixer festival: Red Bull Door Deco

S a v a M a L a

OTKRIVANJE ZABORAVLJENOG GRADA

Na prvi pogled napukle fasade u oblaku dima tekog saobraaja, a u naslagama ai i vremena krije se svevremena riznica prepuna skrivenih detalja, pria i velikih imena. Neko e rei najruniji, neko najlepi deo grada. Savamala svakako je najneobiniji kvart i jedna od najarmantnijih turistikih ponuda Beograda.

esto Savamalu nazivaju nevidljivim gra-dom. Nevidljiva je zato to nije lepa na prvi pogled, zato to se hodom po njoj izbegavaju kamioni i preskau ine. Kada se taj poligon savlada, otkriva se jedna druga Savamala, koja mirie na ratluk bombondije Bosiljia, iz ijih uukanih bata dopiru smeh i dez, koja je svoj beton prepustila ulinim umetnicima, iji zidovi pamte osloboenje Beograda od Turaka, ali i subotnji noni provod u Mladosti i Ludosti... Zbog te druge Savamale, sentimentalne, a istovremeno moderne, vredi krenuti u istraivanje.

Smetena je u senci Brankovog mosta i starih beogradskih velelepnih graevina na desnoj obali Save. Po toj reci, koja je esto umivala njene ulice, Savamala je i dobila ime. Drugi deo naziva potie od turske rei mahala, kasnije skraene u mala, to znai susedstvo. Niko ne zna koje su tane granice te etvrti. Nekada se prostirala ak do Slavije. Prole godine su nemake arhitekte koje su saraivale sa Gete-Gerilom pitale stanovnike da na karti oznae granice Savamale. Svako od njih je drugaije obeleio, voen nekom linom geografi-jom. Meutim, tri nosee take Savamale niko nije izostavio Brankov most, Karaorevu ulicu i ulicu Gavrila Pirncipa.

BRANKOV MOSTDanju se ljulja zbog gradskog saobraaja, nou

se njie uz muziku iz kluba Brankow, smetenog u jednom od stubova mosta. veina uspavanih putnika i budnih klabera nema predstavu o tome na kakvu istoriju se nadovezuju njihova dnevna ruta ili noni provod.

To je prvi drumski most preko Save. Prvi most koji je izgraen bez potpornog stuba na sredini. Prvi most preko kojeg je preao tramvaj. Otvoren je 16. decembra 1934. godine. Iste jeseni u Marselju je izvren atentat na kralja aleksandra I Karaorevia. U njegovu slavu dobija i svoje prvo

ime most Kralja aleksandra. U toku pompeznog otvaranja preko njega je prela sveana kraljevska konjica, koju je inilo 700 konjanika. Meutim, bio je kratkog veka. Da bi spreila prodor Nemaca u Beograd, kraljevska vojska morala je da minira most, a u saveznikom bombardovanju 1944. bio je potpuno uniten. Jedino su kameni stubovi preiveli razaranja, pa je na njima nakon rata sagraen most Bratstva i jedinstva, u narodu nazvan Brankov most. Beograd se brzo razvijao, saobraaj postajao gui, pa je sedamdesetih godina most morao duplo da se proiri.

U Savamalu se moe stii sa raznih strana, a najlepi je prilaz upravo sa Brankovog mosta, jer pogled sa njega hvata skoro ceo kraj. Sa leve strane putnike pozdravlja zatitnica grada mural Gijoma Olbi Remeda La Santa del Belgrado. Sa desne

strane uoavaju se gologlava panska kua i crveni fenjeri Kulturnog centra Grad.

panska kua podignuta je oko 1880. godine. Bila je to tada jedna od najlepih palata u Savamali. Koriena je za potrebe Beogradskog pristanita, zatim kao carinarnica, pa skladite, njome se sluilo i Srpsko brodarsko drutvo, a jedno vreme je bila i Muzej renog brodarstva. U poslednjih pedeset godina promenila je pet zakupaca, jer su radovi na rekonstrukciji bili esto prekidani zbog nedostatka novca. Danas je ta zgrada bez krova i prozora baza projekta Urban Inkubator, koji se bavi oivljavanjem Savamale. Plan je da u toku naredne godine tu bude postavljen stakleni umetniki paviljon, i da polako postane mesto na kome e se odravati programi Gete instituta.

Odmah pored zgrade Stare carinarnice nalazio

Building of the Geological Institute (Geozavod)


se i njen magacin. Stari magacin sagraen je 1884. godine, a od 2009, na inicijativu Kulturnog fronta Beograd i Felix Meritis fondacije iz amsterdama, u njemu je smeten Kulturni centar Grad. autentina rustika starog skladita, neobine intervencije Rimejk kreativaca, nesvakidanji modni detalji u Gradstoru i na Modi za poneti, galerija na spratu, malena bata, amaterska trpeza na Delikatesnom ponedeljku.., samo su neki od razloga zbog kojih je to jedan od omiljenih kutaka gradskih umet-nika i onih koji vole umetnost.

KARAOREVA ULICAGlavna ulica Savamale. Buna i pranjava.

arterija drumskog saobraaja koji dolazi sa Panevakog mosta. ali tu su i Sava, alasi zapetih udica i otmeni restorani s pogledom na ue, Fabrika snova, Mikser house, misteriozni lagumi i neke zaputene romantine fasade.

Ime je dobila po Karaoru, voi Prvog srpskog ustanka, koji je 1806. godine sa svojim ustanicima ba tom ulicom krenuo ka Beogradskoj tvravi da je oslobodi od Turaka.

Godine 1833. srpska vlast dobija unutranju

samoupravu u Beogradu. Knez Milo Obrenovi odluuje da na obali Save izgradi moderan grad po uzoru na arhitekturu evropskih gradova iji se ivot odvijao na rekama, poput Bea ili Budimpete. Nareuje ruenje stotinak uderica, a njihove itelje naseljava na teritoriji optine Palilula. U Savamali se nastanjuju trgovci i zanatlije, te ona postaje glavni trgovaki centar i elitni deo grada. Graevine koje su tada nikle na temeljima tronih kuica i danas imaju veliki istorijski i kulturno-umetniki znaaj. Najvanija od njih je biva zgrada Beogradske zadruge. Taj monumentalni ugaoni objekat podigao je inves-titor Luka elovi, prema planovima arhitekata andre Stevanovia i Nikole Nestorovia. Zidana je tada najmodernijim graevinskim postup-kom, upotrebom armiranog betona, a fasade su obraene u vetakom kamenu. Nakon Drugog svetskog rata menja razne namene i korisni-ke, a najdue se u njoj zadrao Geoloki zavod. Geozavod je svojevremeno bio proglaen za najlepu zgradu u Beogradu. Mnogi Beograani e se i danas sloiti s tim iako je zgrada svoj sjaj odavno izgubila. U poslednjim decenijama

dodatno je ruinirana, jer su u njoj organizovane urke, proslave novih godina, festivali, snimani filmovi u naputenim prostorijama.

Znamenitim lepoticama beogradske arhitekture s poetka prolog veka Geozavod, hotel Bristol i vuina kua, na trgu gde se nekada nalazila Mala pijaca, pridruio se nedavno Mikser house. Modernistiko zdanje zamiljeno je kao sredite budue kreativne industrije grada, stecite dizajnera, muziara, sanjara o lepem i boljem Beogradu. U njemu se nalazi dizajn-prodavnica u kojoj posetioci mogu da kupe proizvode 60 dizajnera sa Balkana, meu njima se moe nai sve od nametaja i garderobe do vina i gurman-skih akonija. Tu je i Mikser kantina sa ukusnim i posebno dizajniranim balkanskim jelima, zatim kafi, pozornica za predstave i muziki program, zajedniki radni prostor i kutak za decu.

Mikser Festival: Savamala u tranzituNajvei regionalni festival kreativnosti i inovativnosti odran je krajem maja i poetkom juna u Savamali, na proirenom potezu uz reku, od hotela Bristol do Beton-hale, na vie od 15 hektara gradske povrine. U fokusu festivala je revitalizacija gradskog pojasa uz reku i masovni silazak Beograana na obalu Save. Prole godine Mikser je ispitivao zateeno stanje u Savamali, ove godine bavi se njenom budunou. Tema ovogodinjeg festivala je Tranzit, a ideja je da se o identitetu Savamale razgovara sa strunom javnou, Gradom Beogradom i optinom Savski venac, lokalnom zajednicom i mladim kreativcima, te da se omei put razvoja ove, za kulturni ivot grada veoma vane etvrti.

LagumiIspod Karaoreve ulice postoji splet podzemnih prolaza koji nisu dovoljno istraeni. Kopanje oko 13 tunela zapoeli su Austrijanci u 18. i nas-tavili u 19 veku. Re je o vetakim peinama koje su sluile kao magacini i friideri onog vremena. Zbog blizine luke i renog puta, lagumi na savskoj padini bili su idealni za uvanje robe, jer je u njima temperatura bila niska i stabilna tokom svih godinjih doba. Male kule na Kosanievom vencu nisu ostaci podzemnog grada tvrave, niti pukarnice kako mnogi Beograani misle. To su, zapravo, ventilacioni otvori koji su vodili vazduh dvadesetak metara u dubinu laguma kako se u njima ne bi pojavili vlaga i bu.

Mixer House


ULICA GAVRILA PRINCIPA

Odmah posle Karaoreve, po vanosti dolazi Ulica Gavrila Principa. Najpre se zvala Savamalska, pa Bosanska, a danas nosi ime po Gavrilu Principu, koji je tu iveo u maloj prizemnoj kui dok je radio na kaldrmisanju Karaoreve ulice. Gavrilo Princip je u tom delu grada promenio nekoliko lokacija. Kada je doao u Beograd, u prolee 1912. godine, nastanio se u Carice Milice 12. Potom se preselio u Lominu 47, da bi se na kraju smestio u Bosanskoj ulici.

Ulica Gavrila Principa bila je glavni trgovaki kvart u tom delu Savamale. Jedina zanatlijska radnja koja svedoi o tom dobu je bombondinica Bosilji. Osnovana je 1936. godine, a sve do danas u njoj se slatkii proizvode runo i po originalnoj, neizmen-jenoj recepturi. Objanjenje za gaenje radnji krije se u pritisku industrijskih proizvoaa, krizi i osiromaenju drutva u poslednjih petnaestak godina, ali i u nezainteresovanosti potomaka starih majstora za njihove zanate.

Pored trgovakih i zanatlijskih radnji, u toj ulici se nalazio i veliki broj kafana. Od starih kafana opstala je jedino Manakova kua, ali i ona sa izmenjenom namenom. Manakova kua jedan je od malobrojnih sauvanih spomenika Balkanske orijentalne arhitekture. Pored nje, u centru grada moe se nai jo nekoliko primera ovakve arhitek-ture, recimo kafana Znak pitanja, konak kneginje Ljubice, Muzej vuka i Dositeja... Manakova kua je podignuta oko 1830. godine. Ime je dobila po vlasniku Manaku Mihailoviu, trgovcu, doseljeniku iz Makedonije. Smetena je na regulacionoj liniji

stare saobraajnice koja je povezivala varo-kapiju i Savamalu. Parcela na kojoj je podignuta kua uslovila je njen nepravilni oblik. U prizemlju su bile smetene kafana i pekara, a kasnije pota i prodavnica, dok su na spratu bile stambene odaje vlasnika. Danas je u njoj ogranak Etnografskog

muzeja sa bogatom etnografskom zbirkom Hristifora Crnilovia, koja sadri oko 2.600 pred-meta velike kulturne vrednosti, uglavnom nonji i nakita. Pored vredne postavke narodnih nonji i nakita, u donjem, suterenskom delu Manakove kue nalaze se i radionice za izuavanje pojedinih tradicionalnih zanata i narodne radinosti. a ovo je tek deli onoga to Savamala krije iza svojih ograda i prozora, tek golicanje da se krene u otkrivanje jednog pomalo zaboravljenog grada, poziv da se lepa savska padina Beograda rekonstruie u nekim novim priama. Jer ona i postoji samo onda kad se o njoj pria.

DrAGANA BArJAKtAreVIfotografije: ore ruSI & DrAGANA BArJAKtAreVI

Urban Inkubator: Kome pripada grad?

Jedinstveni projekat Gete instituta nazvan Urban Inkubator posveen je razvoju Savamale. U okviru tog projekta budunost Savamale nee stvarati urbanisti, politiari i investitori, ve umetnici, arhi-tekte i aktivisti razliitog profila, koji e godinu dana zajedniki ulagati napore u revitalizaciju te etvrti. Projekat ukljuuje i same itelje Savamale i podstie ih da promiljaju o sudbini svoga kraja.

Bosilji candy shop


H I G H L I G H T S

Belgrade Fortress Belgrade Fortress and Kalemegdan Park repre-sent an open-air museum of the citys history. The Victor statue, with its beautiful view over the rivers, is a symbol of Belgrade

City Centre A pedestrian zone and shopping district Knez Mihailova Street and Republic Square represent one of the most valuable architectural areas and liveliest parts of the city.

Skadarlija Bohemian Quarter One of the citys most significant old ambient quarters, it offers a great time at restaurants and bars offering music and national cuisine.


Skadarlija Bohemian Quarter

C I T Y O F B E LG R A D E

Top Attractions Belgrades unique hallmark is provided by its two major rivers, the Sava and the Danube, its cosmopolitan spirit and the charm of its inhabitants. We highly recommend these must-visit places in Serbias capital: Belgrade Fortress, Skardarlija bohemian quarter, the heart of the old town, old Zemun, St. Sava Temple, the royal court complex, green oases around Ada Ciganlija lake, Topider Park and Mount Avala, as well as the legacy from UNESCOs Memory of the World Register.

www.travel-belgrade.com

Photograph of Belgrade Fortress by Svetlana Dingarac

Knez Mihailova StreetThe Rebublic Square


H I G H L I G H T S

Royal Court Complex

City on the River Banks A special treasure of Belgrade is its riverbank areas. Rafts, clubs, cafs, greenery, walks along the Sava and Danube rivers will give you a unique experience of the city.

St. Sava Temple This imposing temple, one of the largest Orthodox churches in the world, is dedicated to a great man of Serbian history, St. Sava.

Royal Court Complex The Royal Court and the White Court, which make up the court complex, bear witness to the history and refined artistic taste of the Serbian Karaorevi royal dynasty.

Topider Park The Court Park and oriental residence of great Serbian ruler Milo Obrenovi speak about the history of the liberation of Serbia. A magnificent plane tree is the parks landmark.


Topider Park St. Sava Temple


Ada Ciganlija The Archive of Nikola Tesla

H I G H L I G H T S


Avala Tower

Miroslavs Gospel

Old Zemun Once at the very border of the West, old Zemun still evokes the spirit of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Gardo Tower, with its panoramic views of the Danube, is a landmark of Zemun.

Ada Ciganlija Visit the Belgrade Sea a beautiful river lake surrounded by woodland, with countless cafs, restaurants, bike paths and sports fields.

Avala Avala Tower on the mountain of the same name is one of the city symbols. You will see unforget-table views of the city and its surroundings from the observation deck at the towers top.

UNESCOMemory Of The World The Archives of Nikola Tesla, the genius scientist who illuminated the planet, are in his museum in Belgrade.

The oldest uniquely illustrated Cyrillic manu-script, Miroslavs Gospel, from the 12th century, is preserved at the National Museum.


WRITING IS A SYMBOL OF LIFEI write when the need is stronger than the cowardice. Writing is not an ordinary job. Its always a bit dangerous. When you find yourself face to face with this danger, with just a pen in your hand, its just that - writing is a symbol of life. Life is a kind of gift, a grace. One must be grateful for life, and for writing. Or perhaps it is exactly this writing that is an expression of gratitude.


What is it that is necessary to step forward, to accept, to take upon oneself the burden of someone elses fate, to have some-one elses problem become part of your life? What is necessary for rejected and unassigned awards what does a contemporary intel-lectual man have to have in order to react, suspect, or say thats enough now? The answers to these questions are given by Peter Handke himself.

He arrived in Belgrade one late Saturday evening in April. On Monday, 8th April, he received the Momo Kapor literature award for his book The Moravian Night. At some point in between, on the Sunday, the following conversation happened in an eerily coincidental place given the afore-mentioned title: on a splav (boathouse) which can be reached from the embankment, across the winding wooden planks leading over the waters of the Sava River, not the Morava.

In addition to what was said during our conversation, and subsequently

written down, some observations that were not part of any dialogue have been added: small things that will certainly not change the world, but that may offer a better insight into Mr. Handkes character, thus helping to understand the text. In fact, Peter Handke is an unusually refined man. His wife, Sophie, confirmed this: she said that she was rather surprised when Peter took her to Belgrade for their honeymoon twenty years ago. She showed me the sleeves of her black coat, the ends of which are embroidered with thin coloured stripes. This is his handiwork, for her. He also gave much to the Serbian people.

The season: not long after early spring. The date: not long before Orthodox Easter. The Moon phase: new moon. The clouds: slowly passing from west to east - The coordinates of this conversation bear a likeness to those of the beginning of The Moravian Night. I would like to ask you to use this opportunity to take us on a journey, perhaps a circular journey, of things, events, personalities and elections that determined your life, or made it just as it is.- I took my most important decision during my law studies. I decided

to leave, to become an artist, specifically a writing artist. As in my case, escapes can be positive. Sometimes such escapes are braver than life itself. When you run away or do something different to what you had originally planned, you have to put in a lot more effort and work harder. It was undoubtedly the most important decision I ever took. It was also very dangerous. I could have failed, and been swimming in the Sava... I was just 23 years old. After everything that happened, its an absolute miracle Im still alive. On the other hand, such and other thoughts gave me the determination to persist. Miracles do not exist through God alone. Man must fight for them.

You grew up in Eastern Berlin. Did your childhood determine the formation of your personality?- It sometimes happens that fifty or sixty years of our lives are deter-

mined purely by chance. Sometimes those years can be horrific, and at other times good. Once you are sixty, that coincidence becomes destiny. Looking back, I can now say that my childhood in Eastern Berlin was fate. Back then my life was ok; I could certainly understand it better. To live life simply according to the pattern of happenings is a sacrifice.

We know you wrote your first book The Hornets on the island of Krk, which back then was part of the former Yugoslavia. We dont, however, know, how you write? In other words, what is your writing ritual? Is it with a pen and paper, do you make notes, do you type on a computer, and at what time of day do you write? Momo Kapor, for example, typed all his books and texts on an old typewriter.- I write when the need is stronger than cowardice. Writing is not a

normal job: there is always some kind of danger present. When you find yourself face to face with this danger, holding just a pen, its just...

It is not simply writing, it then becomes a mission.- Writing is a symbol of life. It is not inconsistent with life. For many, as I said,

it is normal to write. For me it is not. Life is a sort of gift, a grace. For life and for writing one must be grateful. Or perhaps it is just this writing that is an expres-

B E L G R A d E S G u E S T : P E T E R H A N d K E , A u S T R I A N W R I T E R


sion of gratitude. This appreciation is dramatic. If there is no such drama, then there is no book. drama has to be present in the book.

You have just been awarded the Momo Kapor prize for litera-ture. How familiar are you with the footprint Momo Kapor left in fine arts and literature?- I first met Momo through the jAT shows. I clearly remember once read-

ing a wonderful story written by Momo about young people in Bosnia: there were great descriptions of houses, the atmospheres in the houses, the stoves and windows. That was when I realized that Momo Kapor is an excellent topographer. We have - so to speak forgotten, how very important this is for literature. An even more important is the fact that

Momos topography is not based on science, but on his own view.Like reconstruction.- Take jacques derrida, for example. He deconstructs, thereby creating a

new construction. Momo Kapor has done precisely that with Europe, with the world, with a house; and this deconstruction was what he needed in order to create a new house. Its actually Momo Kapor. It is his literature.

This is already the second award you have received together with Emir Kusturica. Previously, you were jointly awarded for Raas Charter. You wrote the preface for Milo obaji monograph, you know Ljuba Popovi, you are close to Milovan Danojli, Mladen Materi ... Could we possibly talk of associated ideas, of recognition as an important category in relationships?- No, theres no recognition. Its actually the great wealth of Serbian arts and

literature that combines all those differences. Sometimes I envy you for all this, but, of course, it is positive envy. Each language has its own literature. The worst is the so-called international literature in which everything is the same; as is wine in oak barrels. I envy you but at the same time I admire you. When I read Pavi, I thought I could never write something like that. It comes from another country, another culture, another language. And that is exactly the beauty of it. Like the Tower of Babylon. Each language has its own music, its melody phrases, its images... Today this is all jeopardized. Everyone wants to write as Americans do. Russians write like Americans, uzbeks write like Americans. Everybody wants to be Hemingway. Thats not good. Each language must have its own specificity. To establish that natural balance is very difficult nowadays.

You read Pavi, I read The Moravian Night. Im certain that not every one of our writers could have described this sad story of our past decades so in depth and so realistically.- Now and then it is good that someone from outside writes a book about


Serbian President Tomislav Nikoli meets with Peter Handke

Writer and author of the text

another country. I myself wish that someone would come to Austria or Germany and write about these countries from another angle. However, I dont mean writing for newspapers, primarily, I mean writing books. Nowadays, it often happens that the journalist approach to writing is no different to writ-ing a book. Writing a book is different. The journalist has a certain method, to write like a journalist is in some way unnatural; its like completing a particular scheme. It is learned. The writer cannot write schematically, he must inves-tigate. unfortunately, more and more writers nowadays write as is taught in journalism schools. That is awful. There is no adventure.

I believe that what you are saying can be well-understood by taking the example of The Moravian Night: by reading some sections on closeness, contours, or the line of a nail.- Yes, the line of a nail. Little is never just a little. Maybe nothing little exists.

Great themes are never big events. Picasso once said, one oughtnt paint great palaces, rather, small cottages on remote roads or in fields...

The stage for The Moravian Night in some way appears to be time-less, and yet simultaneously everlasting - the story you narrated is yours and ours, and yet it could also be biblical.- I do hope it is a biblical story, though one cannot write biblically. All good

stories always have to have some light in the background. It is important to feel the existence of man. The existence starts flowing like the universe, like a river, like the Sava we can see through the window as we speak. Literature is a different kind of Sava river. I would say a river without return, like that film with Robert Mitchum and Marilyn Monroe. Or rather, a river of permanent return. Yes, thats better.

I disapprove of seeking messages in works of art. Your book will be read by various people in various ways. It certainly has auto-biographical connotations. Can you briefly outline what this book is about, in your own opinion?

- The starting point for The Moravian Night was my story called The Afternoon of a Writer. I wrote it twenty years ago. Back then I thought I should write a story about a round trip through Europe instead, a kind of odyssey inside my self, where I would talk about what writing is, what women are, landscapes, travel... This was the starting point. The tragedy in Yugoslavia only confirmed my intention, because it gave me a lot of material to write about. Perhaps it sounds cynical, but thats how it is. Because all I ever wrote about was less abstract, one could say I capitalized on and profited from the tragedy.

The dialogue of a man and a woman from one of your pieces is a template for the new Wim Wenders film.- Yes, that is correct. Well see. The film is currently being shot based on my

play Beautiful days in AranjuezAt the beginning of the new century, what is it that is worth fight-ing for? Throughout history, we fought for many things; we fought for kings, religion, our homeland, our freedom...- For fidelity or loyalty to dreams. In order to do this, we have to have

dreams.In this particular sense, and with or without a mirror, how would Peter Handke reply to the question of who he really is?- It is good to take a look in the mirror. I am glad, if in this regard, I actually see

my eyes. Sometimes I cannot see them. Then I know that something is wrong. When I see them again, I know that I have returned to myself. Sometimes I look at the sky, the clouds in the morning and I think, this is my mirror. I look at the trees and they reply with my eyes. Then I know that that is me, there, in that place, on that day.

DrAGANA mArKoVIphotographs: GorAN StANKoVI & momILo momo KAPor FouNDAtIoN


Peter Handke and his wife Sophie visit the exhibition of prints and pastels by Momo Kapor in the Gallery of the Serbian Army House

PISANJE JE SIMBOL IVOTA

ta je to to je potrebno za iskorak, za prihvatanje da ponesete teret neije tue sudbine, da tu problem postane deo vaeg ivota, ta je potrebno za sve neprihvaene i nedodeljene nagrade ta to ovek intelektualac naeg vremena mora da ima u sebi da bi reagovao, da bi posum-njao, da bi rekao e sad je dosta? Na ova pitanja samim sobom odgovorio je Peter Handke.

u Beograd je stigao jedne aprilske subote, kasno uvee. u ponedeljak 8. aprila uruena mu je Nagrada Momo Kapor za knjievnost za knjigu Moravska no. Negde izmeu, u nedelju, na neobino asocijativnom mestu imajui u vidu pomenu-ti naslov, na splavu do koga se putuje nasipom, a stie drvenim puteljkom daskama prokrenim kroz vodu, Save, ne Morave, voen je i razgovor koji sledi.

Pored svega reenog, a potom ovde zapisanog, postoje i neka zapaanja koja nisu pitanje dijaloga. Neke sitnice, recimo, koje izvesno nee promeniti svet, ali e nam moda ponuditi bolji uvid u linost gospodina Handkea, a samim tim i pojednostaviti itanje teksta. Naime, Peter Handke je neobino rafiniran ovek, istananog senzibiliteta. O tome svedoi i njegova supruga Sofi. Kae da se prilino iznenadila kada ju je na medeni mesec pre vie od dvadeset godina poveo u Beograd. Pokazala mi je rukave svog crnog kaputa iji su kra-jevi izvezeni tankim linijama raznobojnog konca. To je njegov runi rad za nju. Srbima je takoe poklonio mnogo.

Godinje doba: ne zadugo posle ranog prolea. Datum: ne zadugo pre pravoslavnog Uskrsa. Meseeva mena: mlad mesec. Oblaci u slabom prelaenju sa zapada na istok. Vremenske koordinate ovog razgovora sasvim su sline onima kojima poinje Moravska no. Zamolila bih Vas da nas povedete na putovanje, moda kruno, stvarima, dogaajima, linostima, izborima koji su odredili Va ivot. Koji su ga uinili ba

ovakvim kakav jeste. - Moja najznaajnija odluka doneta je za vreme studija prava. Odluio sam

da pobegnem odatle i bavim se umetnou. Tanije pisanjem. Sudei po mom sluaju, bekstva mogu biti i pozitivna. Ponekad su ona hrabrija nego to je to sam ivot. Kad bei, mora mnogo vie da se potrudi, mora mnogo vie da radi nego kad ostvaruje ono to je planirano. To je verovatno bila moja najznaajnija odluka. Ona je bila i veoma opasna. Mogao sam da propadnem, proplivam Savom... imao sam 23 godine. Pravo je udo to sam uopte iv posle svega. Ali sam to udo ja sam odredio. Ne postoje samo uda od boga data. I ovek sam mora da se izbori za njih.

Odrasli ste u Istonom Berlinu. Da li je to bilo specifino detinjstvo koje odreuje formiranje linosti?- dogodi se da pedeset, ezdeset godina naeg ivota biva proizvod iste

sluajnosti. Nekada uasne, a nekada dobre za oveka. Kada napunite ezdeset godina, ta sluajnost postaje sudbina. Sada mogu da kaem kako je moje detinjstvo u Istonom Berlinu bilo sudbina. Onda je moj ivot u redu, svakako ga bolje razumem. iveti ivot samo po obrascu sluajnosti, to je rtva.

Znamo da ste prvu knjigu Strljeni napisali na ostrvu Krk, na prostoru bive Jugoslavije, ali ne znamo kako piete, mislim na sam nain, ritual pisanja. Olovka i papir, beleke, kompjuter, doba dana? Momo Kapor je svoje knjige i tekstove kucao na staroj pisaoj maini. - Piem onda kada je potreba jaa od kukaviluka. Pisanje nije normalan

posao. To je uvek neka vrsta opasnosti. Kada se s tom opasnou nae oi u oi, drei samo olovku, to je jednostavno to...

Piem onda kada je potreba jaa od kukaviluka. Pisanje nije normalan posao. To je uvek neka vrsta opasnosti. Kada se s tom opasnou nae oi u oi, drei samo olovku, to je jednostavno to... Pisanje je simbol ivota. ivot je neka vrsta poklona, milosti. Za ivot i za pisanje ovek mora da bude zahvalan. Ili je upravo to pisanje izraz zahvalnosti.

G O S T B E O G R A d A : P E T E R H A N d K E , A u S T R I j S K I P I S A c


To nije samo pisanje. To je onda misija.- Pisanje je simbol ivota. Ono nije u suprotnosti sa ivotom. Za mnoge je, kao

to rekoh, pisati normalno. Za mene nije. ivot je neka vrsta poklona, milosti. Za ivot i za pisanje ovek mora da bude zahvalan. Ili je upravo to pisanje izraz zahvalnosti. Ta zahvalnost je dramatina. Ako nema te dramatinosti, onda nema ni knjige. drama mora da postoji u knjizi.

Upravo Vam je uruena nagrada koja nosi ime Mome Kapora. Koliko poznajete trag koji je u umetnosti slikarstva i knjievnosti ostavio Momo Kapor?- Sa Momom sam se prvi put sreo posredstvom jatove revije. Seam se

odlino da sam jednom proitao njegovu divnu priu o mladima u Bosni. u toj prii bilo je i odlinih opisa kua, atmosfere u tim kuama, poreta, prozora. Tada sam shvatio da je Momo Kapor izuzetan topograf. A to je veoma vano za knjievnost. To smo takorei zaboravili. jo je bitnija injenica to se Momina topografija nije zasnivala na nauci, ve na iskustvu sopstvenog pogleda.

oput rekonstrukcije.- Ako poemo od aka deride, koji dekonstruie, pravei novu konstrukciju, Momo

Kapor je to inio od Evrope, sveta, od neke kue, a to to mu je bilo potrebno, jeste da napravi novu kuu. To je, u stvari, Momo Kapor. To je njegova knjievnost.

Ovo je ve druga nagrada koju dobijate zajedno sa Emirom Kusturicom. I Raansku povelju ste zajedno dobili. Za monografiju Miloa obajia napisali ste predgovor, znam da se poznajete i sa Ljubom Popoviem, da ste bliski sa Milovanom Danojliem, Mladenom Materiem... Da li tu ve moemo govoriti o bliskosti ideja, o prepoznavanju kao bitnoj kategoriji odnosa meu ljudima?- Ne, nema tu prepoznavanja. To je, u stvari, veliko bogatstvo srpske umet-

nosti, literature, koja objedinjuje sve te razliitosti. Ponekad vam zavidim na svemu tome. To je, naravno, pozitivna zavist. Svaki jezik ima svoju literaturu. Najgora stvar je takozvana meunarodna literatura u kojoj je sve isto. Kao to je to vino u hrastovim buradima. Zavidim vam, ali se u isto vreme i divim. Kada sam itao Pavia, pomislio sam da tako neto ne bih mogao da napiem. To dolazi iz druge zemlje, druge kulture, drugog jezika. To je upravo lepota. Kao i kula u Vavilonu. Svaki jezik ima svoju muziku, melodiju reenice, slike... danas je sve to dovedeno u opasnost. Svi ele da piu kao Amerikanci. Rusi piu kao Amerikanci, uzbekistanci piu kao Amerikanci. Svi hoe da budu Hemingvej. To nije dobro. Svaki jezik mora da ima svoju specifinost. uspostaviti tu prirodnu ravnoteu danas je veoma teko.

Vi ste itali Pavia, ja sam itala Moravsku no i mogu da Vam kaem da je retko ko od naih pisaca tako istinski i tako duboko opisao tunu povest naih poslednjih decenija. - Ponekad je dobro da neko sa strane doe i napie knjigu o nekoj zemlji.

Poelim da isto tako neko doe u Austriju ili Nemaku i napie o tim zemljama neto iz drugog ugla. Ali ne za novine. Mislim pre svega na knjigu. danas se esto dogaa da se novinarski pristup pisanju ne razlikuje od pristupa pisanju knjige. Pisanje knjige ipak je neto drugo. Novinar ima odreen metod, pisati kao novinar na neki nain je neprirodno, to je kao popunjavanje odreene eme. To se ui. Pisac ne sme da pie ematski, on mora da istrauje. Naalost, pisci danas sve ee piu kao to se ui u novinarskim kolama. To je uas. Tu nema avanturizma.

Mislim da se sve ovo o emu govorite na primeru Moravske noi moe odlino razumeti ako se proita jedan deo o bliskosti, obrisima, o liniji nokta.- da, linija nokta. Malo nikada nije samo malo. Moda nita malo i ne postoji.

Velike teme nikada nisu neki veliki dogaaji. Pikaso je govorio da ne treba slikati velike palate, nego male kolibe na zabaenim putevima, u polju...

ini se da je pozornica za Moravsku no nekako vanvremena, i ujedno

svevremena pria koju pripovedate je i Vaa i naa, a opet na neki nain i biblijska. - Nadam se da je to biblijska pria. Ali se ne sme pisati biblijski. Sve dobre prie

uvek moraju imati neku svetlost u pozadini. Vano je oseati ono to je egzistencija oveka. Egzistencija odjednom struji kao univerzum, kao reka, ova Sava kraj prozora koju gledamo. Knjievnost je neka druga vrsta Save. Rekao bih reka bez povratka, kao film sa Robertom Miamom i Merilin Monro. Ili je bolje rei reka stalnih povra-taka. da, tako je bolje.

Protiv sam traenja poruka u nekom umetnikom delu. Vau knjigu e razliiti ljudi itati na razliite naine. Ona nesumnjivo ima i autobiografske tonove. Moete li nam u nekoliko reenica rei o emu je ova knjiga za Vas, onako kako je Vi vidite?- Polazite za Moravsku no bila je moja pria koja se zove Popodne jed-

nog pisca. Napisao sam je pre dvadeset godina. A onda sam pomislio da bih umesto toga mogao da napiem priu o krunom putovanju Evropom, neku vrstu odiseje unutar sebe, gde u govoriti o tome ta je to pisanje, ta su to ene, predeli, putovanja... To je bilo polazite. Tragedija u jugoslaviji me samo oplodila u toj nameri. Ona mi je dala mnogo materijala za pisanje. To moda zvui cinino, ali je tako. Tim je sve o emu sam pisao manje apstraktno. Recimo da sam ja profitirao na tome. Profitirao sam na tragediji.

Dijalog mukarca i ene iz jednog Vaeg komada predloak je za novi film Vima Vendersa. - da, to je tano. Videemo. Taj film se ve snima po mom komadu Lepi dani

u Aranjuezu. ta je to za ta se na poetku novog veka vredi boriti? Borili smo se za mnogota tokom istorije, borili smo se za kralja, veru, otadbinu, slobodu...- Za vernost, odanost snu. Za to je potrebno imati snove. U onom posebnom pogledu, sa ogledalom ili bez njega, na pitanje ko sam ja zapravo, Peter Handke bi odgovorio ta? - dobro je pogledati se u ogledalo. Radujem se kad u tom pogledu zaista i

vidim svoje oi. Ponekad ne mogu da ih pronaem. Onda znam da neto nije kako valja. Kada ih ponovo pronaem, znam da sam se vratio sebi. Ponekad ujutru pogledam u nebo, oblake pomislim, ovo je moje ogledalo. Pogledam drvee i ono mi uzvrati mojim pogledom. I znam da sam to ja, tu, na tom mestu, u tom danu.

DrAGANA mArKoVIfotografije: GorAN StANKoVI I ZADuBINA momILo momo KAPor


Peter Handke, Matija Bekovi and Ljiljana Kapor at the Momo Kapor award granting ceremony in the City Hall.

D O G A A J I | E V E N T S

LONG LIVE LIFE!4th June - 31st July, Department store Beograd, Knez Mihailova 5

DAYS OF THEIR YOUTH Long Live Life is a project that shows everyday life for an ordinary person living in Yugoslavia from 1950 up until 1990. The setting is a multime-dia and interactive, designed to allow visitors to experience the time with all their senses through authentic artefacts, design, installation, audio, video and 3D projection to sit in authentic vehicles of that era and to try a driving simulation in the streets of Belgrade of that time or to put on a workers uniform from that time and to try the famous Pino Silvestre cologne.Info: www.ziveozivot.com

IVEO IVOT!4. jun 31. jul, Robna kua Beograd, Knez Mihailova 5

DANI NJIHOVE MLADOSTIiveo ivot je projekat koji predstavlja ivot u Jugoslaviji od 1950. do 1990. godine u svakod-nevnici obinog oveka. Postavka je multimedi-jalna i interaktivna, koncipirana tako da omogui posetiocu da doivi to vreme svim ulima putem autentinih eksponata, scenografija, instalacija, audio, video i 3D projekcija da sedne u autentina vozila toga doba i proba simulaciju vonje ulicama onovremenog Beograda ili da obue uniformu rad-nika tog vremena i na vrat stavi kolonjsku vodu Pino Silvestre.Info: www.ziveozivot.com


D O G A A J I | E V E N T S22ND BELEF 21st June - 15th July

SUMMER IN BELGRADE

Belgrade has no sea, but it does have Belef. The festival of the festivals this year will be held under the slogan Breathe. Do not breathe, so the residents and guests of the capital should be ready to run out of breath. During the festivals 25 summer days, they will be able to enjoy ten festivals and festival produc-tions that include four arts areas: music, film, dance and visual arts. An environmental programme that was launched two years ago will be continued this summer. Info: www.belef.org

22. BELEF 21. jun 15. jul

LETO U BEOGRADU

Beograd nema more, ali ima Belef. Festival fes-tivala ove godine odrava se pod sa sloganom Dii. Ne dii, te itelji i gosti prestonice treba da se spreme da ostanu bez daha. Tokom 25 festi-valskih letnjih dana moi e da uivaju u deset festivala i festivalskih produkcija koje obuhvataju etiri umetnike celine: muziku, film, igru i vizu-elnu umetnost. Ekoloki program zapoet pre dve godine, bie nastavljen i ovog leta.Info: www.belef.org

10Th BELGRADE BOAT CARNIVAL6th July, Aquatorium of the Sava from Brankos Bridge to Ue

ON THE BEAUTIFUL BLUE DANUBE

The Tourist Organisation of Belgrade is this summer inviting people to go down to the rivers. The slogan of the jubilee Boat Carnival is All Down to the Danube, Down to the Sava, as the slogan Clean and Clear calls attention to the importance of environmental protection. Celebrating a decade of exis-tence, the 10th Belgrade Boat Carnival this year will be part of the international event Blue Danube Week, in which the cities and countries associated with the Danube will exchange cultural, economic, sporting and tourist values and potentials.Info: www.tob.rs

10. BEOGRADSKI KARNEVAL BRODOVA6. jul, akvatorij Save od Brankovog mosta do Ua

NA LEPOM PLAVOM DUNAVU

Turistika organizacija Beograda i ovog leta zalae se za silazak na reke. Slogan jubilarnog Karnevala brodova je Svi na Dunav, svi na Savu, dok podslogan isto i bistro skree panju na znaaj zatite ivotne sredine.

Obeleavajui deceniju postojanja, Beogradski karneval brodova e ove godine biti deo Meunarodne manifestacije Danube Blue Week, u okviru koje e gradovi i zemlje povezane Dunavom razmeniti kulturne, privredne, sportske i turistike vrednosti i potencijale.Info: www.tob.rs


LONG LIVE LIFE!4th June - 31st July, Department store Beograd, Knez Mihailova 5

DAYS OF THEIR YOUTH Long Live Life is a project that shows everyday life for an ordinary person living in Yugoslavia from 1950 up until 1990. The setting is a multimedia and interactive, designed to allow visitors to experience the time with all their senses through authentic artefacts, design, installa-tion, audio, video and 3D projection to sit in authentic vehicles of that era and to try a driving simulation in the streets of Belgrade of that time or to put on a workers uniform from that time and to try the famous Pino Silvestre cologne.Info: www.ziveozivot.com

IVEO IVOT!4. jun 31. jul, Robna kua Beograd, Knez Mihailova 5

DANI NJIHOVE MLADOSTIiveo ivot je projekat koji predstavlja ivot u Jugoslaviji od 1950. do 1990. godine u svakodnevnici obinog oveka. Postavka je

multimedijalna i interaktivna, koncipirana tako da omogui posetiocu da doivi to vreme svim ulima putem autentinih

eksponata, scenografija, instalacija, audio, video i 3D pro-jekcija da sedne u autentina vozila toga doba i proba simulaciju vonje ulicama onovremenog Beograda ili da

obue uniformu radnika tog vremena i na vrat stavi kolonjsku vodu Pino Silvestre.

Info: www.ziveozivot.com



22ND BELEF 21st June - 15th July

SUMMER IN BELGRADE

Belgrade has no sea, but it does have Belef. The festival of the festivals this year will be held under the slogan Breathe. Do not breathe, so the residents and guests of the capital should be ready to run out of breath. During the festivals 25 summer days, they will be able to enjoy ten festivals and festival productions that include four arts areas: music, film, dance and visual arts. An environmental programme that was launched two years ago will be continued this summer. Info: www.belef.org

22. BELEF 21. jun 15. jul

LETO U BEOGRADU

Beograd nema more, ali ima Belef. Festival fes-tivala ove godine odrava se pod sa sloganom Dii. Ne dii, te itelji i gosti prestonice treba da se spreme da ostanu bez daha. Tokom 25 festi-valskih letnjih dana moi e da uivaju u deset festivala i festivalskih produkcija koje obuhvataju etiri umetnike celine: muziku, film, igru i vizu-elnu umetnost. Ekoloki program zapoet pre dve godine, bie nastavljen i ovog leta.Info: www.belef.org

11Th INTERNATIONAL COMICS SALON26st-29th September, Happy Gallery of the Student Cultural Centre (SKC)

ART FOR ALL AGESThe International Comics Salon is a festival that has for the past ten years organised and run the happy Gallery of the Student Cultural Centre (SKC) in Belgrade. The salon is the biggest comics event in Serbia and one of the most important festivals of the ninth art in the region. It is of competitive character, and participants are the authors of all ages from all around the world. The festival brings together the most famous names from the world of the comics scene, but also promotes young artists. Info: www.sck.org.rs

11. MEUNARODNI SALON STRIPA26-29. septembar, Srena galerija SKC

UMETNOST ZA SVE UZRASTEMeunarodni salon stripa je festival koji ve deset godina organizuje i vodi Srena galerija Studentskog kulturnog centra u Beogradu. Salon je najvei

strip dogaaj u Srbiji i jedna od najznaajnijih smotri devete umetnosti u regionu. Takmiarskog je kara-

ktera, a uesnici nadmetanja su autori svih uzrasta iz svih zemalja sveta. Festival okuplja najpoznatija imena sa svetske strip scene, ali promovie i mlade umetnike.

Info: www.sck.org.rs



20 Winter | Zima 2011/12 BelGuest

BelGuest Zima | Winter 2011/12 21

L i t e r a r y G u i d e t h r o u G h B e L G r a d eL i t e r a r y G u i d e t h r o u G h B e L G r a d e

J a n k o V e s e l i n o V i

IF YOUVE FALLEN DOWN, RISE AGAIN


L i t e r a r y G u i d e t h r o u G h B e L G r a d eL i t e r a r y G u i d e t h r o u G h B e L G r a d e K n j i e v n i v o d i K r o z B e o G r a d

Belgrade at the end of the nineteen and in the early twenteth century is impossible to picture without its taverns and the joyous groups that would gather in those taverns. They were focal points of the cul-tural and social life of the period. There was singing, drinking, gambling, poetry writing, the outlining of articles and theatre plays, the government was criticised there as well as the theatre management, and money-making ideas were also made there...

This vivid image, which has stayed in the memories and records of chroniclers, is filled with the characters of writers, actors, musicians, singers and a few students learning the tricks of the bohemian trade. They were ...lighthearted, cheerful and witty people, who put society ahead of all other duties in their life..., as Branislav nui noted, himself often part of those gatherings, which provided him with numerous topics for his texts and comedies.

it is impossible to imagine both the famous taverns of Belgrade and the social and cul-tural life of the city of the time without Janko Veselinovi. He is always present somewhere both on photographs and in life, in memo-ries and anecdotes. But his life is a prime example of the complexity of a period in which serbia, at the threshold of a new cen-tury, was attempting to undergo modernisation and attain economic development and to become economically independent. it was a time of stirred-up political passions when friends divided by political and dynastic allegiances fell out and used newspapers as a medium for their furious arguments.

at the end of the nineteenth century, more than four-fifths of serbias popu-lation lived in villages. Janko was also born in a village, in Crnobarski sala in Mava. He was the first-born son of the priest Milo and his wife Jelisaveta Veselinovi. He would later turn out to be the most troublesome of his parents six children. He was a mischievous, disobedient and obstinate child, but also a good pupil.

in abac, where he continued his high school education, he came into contact with one of his lifelong passions theatre. He learned about new ideas in poli-tics from his older friends from school, but also from newspapers, and books, and he eventually joined svetozar Markovis movement.

He was convinced that the teachers calling was the best way to help others, and his desire to work not even having finished his first year of studies led to his becoming a temporary teacher. His father couldnt make peace with the fact that his son wasnt going to be a priest, so he got him enrolled in a seminary. Disliking the experience, Janko quit the seminary and returned back home. Having no other choice, his father took him to Belgrade and enrolled him in the Teachers school.

piCtures oF ruraL LiFeVeselinovi rose to fame as a writer of short stories about village life. Very skil-

fully, as someone who was intimately familiar with country life, he managed

to convey it faithfully to his readers. However, the road to acquiring this skill wasnt at all easy. His arrival in the vil-lage of svileuva, where he was appointed as a temporary teacher, would affect his future in a significant way. This was where he began to get prepared for his future writ-ing career and political activity, and where he fell deeply in love for the first time. Being cheerful, carefree, a good singer, sincere and outgoing in his dealings with the vil-lagers, he soon became very close with them and they started calling him their teachr. The following spring he started reading and writing even more. He wrote and tore up his writings, but he just couldnt find a genuine voice. it was only the following winter, having remembered an anecdote hed heard in the village, that he finally sat down and completed his first short story.

swayed by Markovis ideas, he joined the Radical Party and remained its activist for the rest of his life. at that time, he fell in love with Jovanka Jovanovi and, in the fervour of youth, wanted to marry her, despite his parents

opposition. Threatening with suicide if they were not to give him their blessing, he made them give in, and the young couple was soon married. Unlike his political passion, his romantic passion was short-lived. Handsome and popular, he was an unfaithful husband, and his loyal, loving wife Joka suffered tremendously. They had several children, only one of whom survived their daughter Persa. after the death of their last child, Jovanka moved in with Jankos parents and remained there for the rest of her life.

a teLeGraphist and opera sinGer Who Wasnt meant to BeHe was more successful with the girls than with his school. During his second

year of teaching, his work received a weak assessment by an inspector. He quit his teaching post and decided to go to Vienna in order to become a telegraphist. With good intentions and money received from his father and Jokas uncle, he set sail for austrias capital. There he lived cheerful and carefree in the company of his countrymen. His baritone voice was well-received everywhere he would show up, so at one time he considered applying for the Vienna state opera. Fortunately, his friends talked him out of it. Four months later, not having taken the telegraphist course, with no knowledge of German and having gone through a traumatic psychological and medical experience with a Viennese girl, he returned to his family in Glogovac.

He came back to the village at the outbreak of the serbo-Bulgarian War, in which he served as a troop political commissar. He came back from the war a changed man, aware of the fact that he and his family had long been a burden on his father. in order to be able to provide for his family, he once again sought a teaching post. after a few months, his request was finally granted, and he became a teacher in svileuva again.

to convey it faithfully to his readers. However, the road to acquiring this skill wasnt at all easy. His arrival in the vil-lage of svileuva, where he was appointed as a temporary teacher, would affect his future in a significant way. This was where he began to get prepared for his future writ-ing career and political activity, and where he fell deeply in love for the first time. Being cheerful, carefree, a good singer, sincere and outgoing in his dealings with the vil-lagers, he soon became very close with them and they started calling him their teachr. The following spring he started reading and writing even more. He wrote and tore up his writings, but he just couldnt find a genuine voice. it was only the following winter, having remembered an anecdote hed heard in the village, that he finally sat down and completed his first short story.

swayed by Markovis ideas, he joined the Radical Party and remained its activist for the rest of his life. at that time, he fell in love with Jovanka Jovanovi and, in the fervour of youth, wanted to marry her, despite his parents The poster for the play Deception, 1907



on the path oF Literary FameThe two years spent in svileuva saw the publication of his first literary works.

He took his short stories, written with a determination he hadnt displayed in anything else, out of the drawer. on 15 May 1886, two weeks after his 24th birthday, abaki Glasnik (The abac Herald) published his first short story at the Village Gathering, albeit anonymously, as Janko had requested. after that, his stories came out in instalments all the way to october, to be published later in the collection titled Pictures of Rural life. it was a beginning. This continued in the following years with the publication of his new short stories in leading serbian literary magazines as well. The first accolades also started coming in from colleagues and critics, from laza lazarevi, sreten Pai and Milan Jovanovi, who wrote: his pictures are a pure, undisturbed mirror held up to village life!

in spite of the initial praise, other voices soon joined in, talking of Jankos undeveloped talent, following the opinion expressed by the distinguished critic ljubomir nedi on Jankos longest story, Peasant Woman. in the mean-time, the same story was translated into French and served as a valuable account of the life of the Balkan peoples to the French scientist Brentan.

and while his literary work was receiving more and more attention on the one hand, on the other hand he was paying the price for his political involve-ment. He was relocated to different schools on several occasions, which didnt serve to make him loyal, so he later spent a month in jail in abac for writing against county authorities. This wasnt his last prison experience.

in poLitiCaL Waters

after his release from prison, he resigned from his teaching post because he was elected president of the municipality of koceljeva as the representative of the Radical Party. Jankos election was helped as much by his popularity as by his promises that attracted poorer locals. He was known as a great opponent of corruption and abuse of authority, which appealed to the poor peasants. There were also those who liked the other side of Jankos character, his jovial spirit and the numerous hours spent singing, drinking and laughing in taverns.

it was a time of fierce political clashes when opponents didnt shrink even from the use of force, threats and weapons. Jankos famous role ended a year later.

the BeLGrade yearsin august of 1893, he arrived in Belgrade. it was his third stay in the capital,

this time lasting nearly a dozen years. The years in Belgrade gave him the opportunity to commit to theatre again, writing for and about it. He wrote two operettas, a form very popular at the time, titled ido and The Chase. The music was transcribed from Jankos singing by Davorin Jenko. ido was one of the most successful serbian operettas.

However much fame and popularity writing brought him, it also made him enemies. He particularly made enemies by writing for the opposition paper Zvezda (star). He incurred powerful opposition, first by publishing in instal-ments his novel The Hero of our Days, which put him out of favour with the powerful Prime Minister Vladan orevi, as well as with king Milan obrenovi for vilification. Revenge was soon to follow, and he was sentenced to three months imprisonment, which he served in Glavnjaa despite his frail health.

in his last years, he would usually go to his parents home in Glogovac, Mava in May. His illness first arose in the fall of 1904.

return to his native mavaWhen he set off for Mava by ship

in May the following year, he was seen off by many of his friends and admirers, many of whom were aware that that was a final farewell. He died on 14th June 1905, aged 43. it is said that near his death, still conscious, he reached for his fathers hand to kiss it and so probably ask forgiveness for all the trouble he had caused him during his short life.

He was a noble man who loved people, neither malicious nor vengeful, nor vain or haughty. He was forgiving, and stayed gentle and considerate until the end of his life, and this was how he was remembered. in one of his short sto-ries, he wrote down a thought, which may have propped him up when he had faltered: The world is held together by faith and confidence. if everything lost heart, everything would be doomed! Rather: if youve fallen down, rise again.

Jovo Ani The author is grateful to the Archive of the Serbian Academy of Arts and Sciences (SANU) and the Theatre Museum on seconded photos and documents used for this text.

In the company of Vladimir Jovanovi, Antun Gustav Mato and Milorad Petrovi



AKO SI PAO, TI USTANI OPET

Ta ivopisna slika koja je ostala u seanjima i zapisima hroniara ispun-jena je likovima knjievnika, glumaca, muziara, pevaa i ponekog velikokolca koji je uio boemski zanat. Bili su to vedri, veseli i duhoviti ljudi, koji su pretpostavljali drutvo svakoj drugoj dunosti u ivotu kako je zabeleio Branislav nui, koji se i sam u tom drutvu esto nalazio i tu pronaao mnoge teme za svoje tekstove i komedije.

nemogue je zamisliti ni uvene beogradske kafane, ni drutveni i kulturni ivot Beograda tog vremena bez Janka Veselinovia. on je uvek tu negde i na fotografijama i u ivotu, u seanjima i anegdotama. ali upravo njegov ivot pokazuje svu sloenost vremena u kojem srbija na pragu novog veka pokuava da se modernizuje i dosegne ekonomski razvoj i ekonomsku nezavisnost. Bilo je to vreme uzavrelih politikih strasti, kada su se prijatelji, podeljeni u

politike stranke ili po dinastikim simpatijama, zavaali i otro polemisali preko novina.

U srbiji je krajem 19. veka vie od etiri petine stanovnitva ivelo na selu. i Janko se rodio na selu, u Mavi, u Crnobarskom salau, kao prvenac svetenika Miloa i Jelisavete Veselinovi. ispostavie se da e doneti svojim roditeljima najvie muka od sve estoro dece, koliko su ih imali. Bio je nestano, neposluno i jogunasto dete, ali i dobar ak.

U apcu, gde je nastavio gimnazijsko kolovanje, doao je u kontakt sa jed-nom od svojih trajnih ljubavi pozoritem. U uiteljskoj koli je preko starijih drugova, iz novina i knjiga doao do saznanja o novim politikim idejama i pristupio pokretu svetozara Markovia.

Bio je uveren da je uiteljski poziv najbolji nain da pomogne drugima, pa

Sliku Beograda s kraja 19. i poetka 20. veka nemogue je zamisliti bez beogradskih kafana i veselog drutva koje se u njima okupljalo. One su bile stecita kulturnog i drutvenog ivota tog vremena. U njima se pevalo, pilo, kockalo, pisale se pesme, koncipirali lanci i pozorine drame, kritikovala vlast, pozorina uprava, smiljali naini da se doe do para

J a n k o V e s e l i n o V i Veselinovis bust in Kalemegdan Park



je i ne dovrivi prvi razred, hteo da radi i tako postao privremeni uitelj. otac se nije pomirio s tim da mu sin ne postane svetenik i upisao ga je u bogosloviju. Janku se to nije dopalo, pa je napustio i vratio se kui. nemajui kud, otac ga je odveo u Beograd i upisao u uiteljsku kolu.

sLiKe iz seosKoG ivotaVeselinovi je knjievnu slavu stekao kao pisac seoske pripovetke. sa

velikim umeem, kao neko ko je izbliza upoznao seoski ivot, uspeo je da ga verno prenese itaocima. ali put do sticanja te vetine nije bilo lak. Dolazak u selo svileuvu, gde je postavljen za privremenog uitelja, uticae znatno na njegov budui ivot. Tu e zapoeti pripreme za buduu spisateljsku karijeru, politiku aktivnost i prvi put se ozbiljno zaljubiti. Veseo, bezbrian, dobar peva, iskren u susretima sa seljanima i spreman da popria, brzo se zbliio s njima i postao jednostavno njihov ua. narednog prolea poeo je jo vie da ita i pie. Pisao je i cepao, ali nije uspevao da pronae pravi jezik. Tek naredne zime, setivi se jedne prie koju je uo upravo u selu, seo je i konano ispisao svoju prvu pripovetku.

Ponesen Markovievim idejama, pristupio je Radikalnoj stranci i bio njen aktivista skoro do kraja ivota. U to vreme zaljubio se u Jovanku Jovanovi i mladalaki zanet poeleo da se oeni uprkos protivljenju roditelja. Zapretivi da e se ubiti ako se ne saglase, on ih je privoleo da daju saglasnost i mladi

par se ubrzo venao. Za razliku od politikog, njegov ljubavni zanos je kratko trajao. lep i omiljen, bio je neveran mu, a njegova Joka, koja ga je volela i bila mu odana, mnogo je propatila. imali su vie dece, ali je samo jedno preivelo, erka Persa. kada je poslednje od dece umrlo, Jovanka se preselila kod Jankovih roditelja i tu je ivela do kraja ivota.

nesueni teLeGraFista i opersKi pevaimao je vie uspeha kod devojaka nego u koli. Tokom druge godine

uiteljevanja od inspektora je dobio ocenu slab. Podneo je ostavku na uiteljsku slubu i reio da ui telegrafski zanat u Beu. sa dobrom namerom i novcem, to od oca, to od Jokinog ujaka, zaputio se bro-dom u prestonicu austrije. iveo je u drutvu svojih zemljaka veselo i bezbrino. njegov bariton je svuda bio lepo primljen, pa je u jednom asu pomislio da bi mogao da se prijavi Bekoj operi. sreom, drugovi su ga odgovorili. Posle etiri meseca, ne pohaajui kurs, ne nauivi nemaki i sa traumatinim psihikim i medicinskim iskustvom sa jednom bekom devojkom vratio se u Glogovac porodici.

Vratio se u selo kada je izbio srpskobugarski rat, u kojem je uestvovao kao etni komesar. iz njega se vratio promenjen, svestan da su ve dugo i on i njegova porodica na teretu ocu. Da bi mogao da izdrava porodicu, ponovo je potraio posao uitelja. Posle nekoliko meseci, molba mu je konano usvojena, postao je ponovo uitelj u svileuvi.

na putu Ka Knjievnoj sLaviTokom dve godine provedene u svileuvi, doiveo je i da mu budu objav-

ljeni prvi knjievni radovi. iz fioke je izvukao svoje pripovetke, pisane sa upornou kakvu ni u emu drugom nije pokazao. U abakom glasniku mu se 15. maja 1886. godine, dve nedelje posle njegovog 24. roendana, pojavila prva pripovetka na prelu, istina nepotpisana, kako je Janko traio. a onda, sve do oktobra njegove pripovetke izlaze u nastavcima, da bi se pojavile u zbirci slike iz seoskog ivota. Bio je to poetak. Wedding photos

Letter to Ljuba Stojanovi



nastavak je sledio narednih godina, kad se pojavljuju njegove nove pripovetke i u vodeim srpskim knjievnim asopisima. stiu i prve pohvale od kolega i kritiara, od laze lazarevia, sretena Paia i Milana Jovanovia, koji pie: ...slike su njegove isto, nepomueno ogledalo seoskog ivota!

Uprkos prvim pohvalama, pojavie se uskoro i drugaiji glasovi, koji o Janku govore kao o talentu koji se nije razvio, sledei miljenje koje je uvaeni kritiar ljubomir nedi napisao o Jankovoj najduoj pripoveci seljanka. U meuvremenu je ista pripovetka prevedena na francuski i posluila francuskom nauniku Brentanu kao dragoceno svedoanstvo o ivotu balkanskih naroda.

i dok je njegov knjievni rad bivao sve zapaeniji, plaao je cenu svog politikog angamana. Vie puta je kao uitelj bio premetan, to ga nije uinilo lojalnijim, pa je, zbog natpisa protiv sreske vlasti, proveo nepun mesec u abakom zatvoru, to nee biti njegovo poslednje zatvorsko iskustvo.

u poLitiKim vodamaPosle izlaska iz zatvora, podneo je ostavku na uiteljsku slubu, jer je kao

radikal izabran za predsednika optine u koceljevi. izboru su doprineli koliko obeana politika, koja je prijala uima siromanijih stanovnika, toliko i Jankova popularnost. Bilo je poznato da je on veliki protivnik korupcije, zloupotrebe vlasti, to se svialo siromanim seljacima. Bilo je onih kojima se dopadala i ona druga strana Jankove linosti, veseljaki duh i mnogi asovi provedeni u kafani u pesmi, piu, poalicama.

Bilo je to vreme estokih politikih sukoba, gde se nije prezalo ni od upotrebe sile, pretnji, oruja. Jankova se slavna uloga zavrila posle godinu dana.

BeoGradsKe GodineU avgustu 1893. godine dolazi u Beograd. Bio je to njegov trei boravak u pres-

tonici, ovog puta dug gotovo dvanaest godina. U Beogradu mu se pruila prilika

da se ponovo posveti pozoritu, pisao je za pozorite i o pozoritu. napisao je, u ono vreme vrlo popularnoj formi komada sa pevanjem ido i Potera. Muziku je na osnovu Jankovog pevanja zapisao Davorin Jenko. ido je bio jedan od naih najuspelijih komada s pevanjem.

koliko god da mu je pisanje donelo slavu i popularnost, toliko je stvorilo i nepri-jatelje. naroito ih je stekao tekstovima u opozicionom listu Zvezda. Dobio je mone protivnike, najpre objavljujui u nastavcima svoj roman Junak naih dana, kojim se zamerio predsedniku vlade Vladanu oreviu, a zbog omalovaavanja i kraljevom ocu Milana obrenovia. osveta je ubrzo stigla, osuen je na tri meseca zatvora i uprkos slabom zdravlju, odleao ih je u Glavnjai.

Poslednjih godina obino je u maju odlazio roditeljima u Mavu, u Glogovac. Poeo je da poboleva u jesen 1904. godine.

povrataK u rodnu mavukada je krajem maja naredne godine krenuo brodom u Mavu, ispratilo ga

je mnotvo njegovih prijatelja i potovalaca. Mnogi su znali da je to oprotaj. Umro je 14. juna 1905, u svojoj 43. godini. kau da je pred smrt jo pri svesti traio oevu ruku da je poljubi i na taj nain verovatno zatrai oprotaj za sve nedae koje mu je tokom kratkog ivota priredio.

Bio je plemenit ovek, koji je voleo ljude, nije bio zloban i osvetoljubiv, niti sujetan i ohol, pratao je i do kraja ivota bio nean i paljiv prema ljudima, tako su ga se seali. U jednoj svojoj pripoveci ispisao je misao koja ga je moda drala kada bi posrnuo:svet dri vera i pouzdanje. Da sve klone, sve bi propalo! nego: ako si pao, ti ustani opet...

Jovo AniAutor zahvaljuje Arhivu SANU i Pozorinom muzeju za dokumente i fotografije koriene za ovaj tekst.


EXHIBITION THE BIRTH OF CHRISTIANITY IN THE ROMAN PROVINCES IN THE TERRITORY OF SERBIA

ROMAN MAGIC POTION

At first it seemed that we went astray in one of the episodes of Asterix while waiting, in the heat of Kostolac fields, having

the guards costumed as Roman legionaries on the side, for the Archaeological Park Viminacium to officially open one of the most ambitious

cultural events in celebration of 1700 years of the Edict of Milan the exhibi-tion The Birth of Christianity in the Roman Provinces in the Territory of Serbia.

Any comparison between the comic and the movie was gone in an instant when we stepped into a Roman villa and by the power of magic potion entered the revived

world of the late Roman Empire.


Sculptures and fragments of architectural sculptures, frescoes, mosaics, jewellery, cult and ceremonial objects, containers made of precious metal, ceramics and glass, pieces of military parade equipment, Roman imperial coins all that is part of the setting with more than 180 archaeological artefacts, most of which are of zero cultural value, witnessing of various aspects of life in the period from the second to the seventh century.

TREASURES OF HOMELAND OF ROMAN EMPERORS The decisive events that shaped the history of

the Roman Empire in the period of late antiquity took place on the soil of the Balkan provinces, and the archaeological objects found in this region are an indispensable testimony for the history of this period in the whole of the Empire. It is anticipated that the archaeological and numismatic materials present the period preceding Constantines rule, the cultural and religious changes caused by this

emperors reign, as well as his legacy, especially in the domain of religion, Bojana Bori Brekovi, director of the National Museum in Belgrade, the institutions that stands behind this exhibition, said in an editorial in the catalogue.

She insists on the fact that these are exhibits from the soil of Serbia that the Serbian national museum collections have at disposal: the Historical Museum of Serbia, the museums of Vojvodina, Belgrade, Srem, Negotinska Krajina, Smederevo, as well as the national museums in Belgrade, Zajear, Ni and Poarevac. The items originate from various locations: the residential complexes in Sirmium (Sremska Mitrovica), Naissus and Mediana (Ni), the palace in Gamzigrad - Felix

Romuliana near Zajear, arkamen in Negotin, Roman urban centres of Singidunum (Belgrade), Viminacium (Kostolac) and archaeological sites in the vicinity of abac, Mountain Rudnik and the Danube borderline.

PORTRAITS OF THE FAMOUS ONES The exhibits also include Him Constantine

the Great, his portrait in bronze, which is consid-ered the worlds masterpiece portrait of art in the period of late antiquity. It was discovered in 1900 in Constantines hometown Naissus. It is believed to be part of the monumental gilded statue of the first Christian ruler, which was created probably in 334. Art historians believe that Constantines

SERBIA IN THE ROMAN AGE The territory of modern-day Serbia encompasses three Roman provinces: Lower Pannonia, Dalmatia and Upper Moesia. The part of Dalmatia corresponding to modern-day West

bel guest summer 2013

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