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Contents

Berlin 35The Reichstag ............38Brandenburger Tor ... 40The Berlin Wall .......... 42Museumsinsel ........... 46Schloss Charlottenburg ..........52Holocaust Memorial ....................56Berlin Nightlife ..........58Walking Tour: Historical Highlights .................. 60Walking Tour: A Leisurely Tiergarten Saunter... 62Sights ............................64Tours ............................. 72Shopping ...................... 73Eating ............................ 73Drinking & Nightlife ......76Entertainment ..............79Where to Stay ...............83

Potsdam 85Schloss & Park Sanssouci ......... 88Sights ............................92Eating ............................95

Munich 97Oktoberfest ............. 100Residenz ...................102Sights ..........................106Tours ............................ 117Shopping .....................118Eating ...........................119Drinking & Nightlife .... 123Entertainment ............ 127

Neuschwanstein 133Schloss Neuschwanstein ......136Füssen ......................... 140

Heidelberg 143The Altstadt .............146Schloss Heidelberg ................148Sights ..........................150Activities .....................150Tours ...........................150Eating ..........................150Drinking & Nightlife .... 152Entertainment ............ 153

The Black Forest ................ 155Freiburg's Medieval Altstadt ....158Spas of Baden-Baden ...........160Black Forest Walks ........................162Freiburg ...................... 166Baden-Baden ............. 169Gutach ......................... 171

Schiltach ......................172Triberg ..........................172

Dresden 175Frauenkirche ............ 178Residenzschloss ......180Sights .......................... 182Tours ........................... 185Eating .......................... 185Drinking & Nightlife .... 186

Nuremberg 189Exploring the Altstadt ....................192Sights .......................... 196Tours ........................... 197Shopping .................... 199Eating .......................... 199Drinking & Nightlife ... 200Entertainment ............201

Rothenburg ob der Tauber 203The Romantic Road ......................... 206Sights ..........................210Tours ............................211Shopping .....................211Eating .......................... 212

Cologne 215Kölner Dom ..............218Walking Tour: Exploring Cologne .. 220Sights ..........................222Activities .....................223Tours ...........................225

Plan Your TripGermany's Top 12..... 6Itineraries ................18If You Like… ............. 24Month by Month ..... 26Get Inspired ............ 29Family Travel ...........30Need to Know ......... 32

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CONTENTS PLAN YOUR TRIP 5

Shopping ....................225Eating ..........................225Drinking & Nightlife ....226Entertainment ............226

The Romantic Rhine Valley 229Hiking & Cycling inthe Rhine Valley ...... 232Rüdesheim .................234Bingen .........................234Burg Reichenstein......235Bacharach ................. 236Loreley & St Goarshausen .........237St Goar ........................238Boppard ......................238Koblenz ...................... 239

The Moselle Valley 243Trier's Roman Monuments ............. 246Moselle Wine Experience .............. 248Cochem ......................252Traben-Trarbach .........253Bernkastel-Kues ........254Trier .............................256

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In FocusGermany Today ....262History ..................264Arts & Architecture ......... 275Germany Outdoors .............. 279The Germans .......282German Cuisine ...284Beer & Wine ..........288

Survival GuideDirectory A–Z .......293Transport ..............303Language ...............314Index ......................316Map Legend &Symbols Key......... 322

Berlinp35

Potsdamp85

Munichp97Neuschwanstein

p133

Heidelbergp143

Black Forestp155

Nurembergp189

Dresdenp175

Rothenburgp203

Colognep215

Rhine Valleyp229

Moselle Valleyp243

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10 PLAN YOUR TRIP GERMANY’S TOP 12

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HeidelbergThe 19th-century romantics found sublime beauty and spiritual inspiration in Germany’s oldest university town (p143) and so, in his way, did Mark Twain, who was beguiled by the ruins of the hillside castle. Generations of students have attended lec-tures, sung lustily with beer steins in hand, carved their names into tavern tables and, occasionally, been sent to the student jail. All of this has left its mark on the modern-day city, where age-old traditions endure alongside world-class research, innovative cultural events and a sometimes rau-cous nightlife scene. Marktplatz (p146)

The Black ForestMist, snow or shine, the deep, dark Black Forest (p155) is just beautiful. If it’s back-to- nature moments you’re after, this sylvan slice of south-western Germany is the place to linger. Every valley reveals new surprises: half-timbered villages looking every inch the fairy-tale fantasy, thunder-ous waterfalls, cuckoo clocks the size of houses. Breathe in the cold, sappy air, drive roller-coaster roads to middle-of-nowhere lakes, have your cake, walk it off on trail after gorgeously wooded trail, then hide away in a heavy-lidded farmhouse. Hear that? Silence. What a wonderful thing. Black Forest trail

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GERMANY’S TOP 12 PLAN YOUR TRIP 11M

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Plan Your Trip10-Day Itinerary

Along the Rhine and MoselleThe Rhine and Moselle rivers in Germany’s far west cut through mountains and valleys carpeted in vines, passing hilltop castles and quaintly historical towns and villages along the way.

1 Cologne (p215) This may be a bucolic tour of Germany’s most famous pair of rivers, but we start with the big-city vibe of Cologne. Top sight here is the world-famous Kölner Dom, the city’s cathedral, its twin towers dominating the cityscape. When you’ve negotiated the more than 509 steps to the top of the south tower and the same number down again, head for the Römisch-Germanisches Museum, a superb repository of the Rhine’s Roman past.ICologne to KoblenzL 1 hrs

2 Koblenz (p239) The main attractions in Koblenz are the rebuilt Altstadt and the confluence of the Moselle and Rhine.I Koblenz to BacharachL 30 mins

3 Bacharach (p236) This is one of the Rhine’s quaintest villages and certainly worth a stopover.I Bacharach to RüdesheimN 50 mins

4 Rüdesheim (p234) This village offers spectacular river views and some of Germany’s best wines. From Rüdesheim you now backtrack to Koblenz to join the Moselle on its winding way southwest towards the border with Luxembourg.I Rüdesheim to Cochem (via Koblenz)L 1½ hrs

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10-DAY ITINERARY PLAN YOUR TRIP 21

Above left: St Goarshausen (p237) on the Rhine

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5 Cochem (p252) Touristy Cochem is just half an hour from Koblenz by train and is a gateway to the Moselle Valley. It’s the terminus for most boat cruises and boasts an 11th-century castle, the Reichsburg.I Cochem to Traben-TrarbachL 35 mins

6 Traben-Trarbach (p253) The Moselle region is famous for its wines and there’s no better place to indulge in a tasting session than Traben-Trarbach. The town straddles the Moselle, Traben hugging the northern shore, Trarbach the southern banks. Away from the crisp whites, a rather unexpected attraction here is the Buddha Museum, though it is housed in a former winery.ITraben-Trarbach to TrierL 1½ hrs

7 Trier (p256) The undisputed high point of any Moselle journey is the town of Trier. Just shy of the border with Luxembourg, Trier boasts Germany’s finest gathering of Roman monuments, a fact recognised by Unesco in 1986. These include the Porta Nigra Roman gate, the Kaiserthermen Roman thermal baths and an amphitheatre that once held 20,000 spectators.

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Plan Your TripIf You Like...

German FlavoursBratwurst Nuremberg’s finger-sized links are top dogs in Germany.

Pork knuckle A Munich beer hall such as the Hofbräuhaus is the perfect place for tackling this belt-stretcher.

Spätzle Noodle dish from the Stuttgart region, often smothered in cheese or topped with lentils.

Black forest gateau Enjoy this liqueur-drenched sponge-cake symphony at Café Schäfer in Triberg, where it was invented.

Beer Oktoberfest is the best time to sample Mu-nich’s famous brews.

Churches Kölner Dom The twin spires of Germany’s largest cathedral dominate Cologne’s skyline. (p218 )

Frauenkirche Dresden’s most famous church was reopened in 2005 after six decades as a heap of WWII rubble. (p178 )

Asamkirche Created by the Asam brothers, this small church has one of Germany’s most impressive Baroque interiors. (p107)

Wieskirche Baroque gem is one of the highlights of the Romantic Road. (p209 )

WWII SitesHitler’s Bunker Hitler’s Berlin bunker is concealed by a parking lot sporting an information panel. (p87)

Memorium Nuremberg Trials Visit the court-room where the famous Nuremberg Trials took place. (p196 )

Reichsparteitagsgelände Roam the huge site where the Nazis held their pre-WWII rallies. (p197 )

KZ-Gedenkstätte Dachau Germany’s first concentration camp is a dis-turbing experience. (p118 )

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