BIRDING ABROAD SICILY 7 to 12 April 2017

TOUR OVERVIEW: Sicily is blessed with an extraordinarily varied and beautiful landscape. The terrain is mostly hilly including the striking dome of Mount Etna, the tallest active volcano in Europe which dominates the whole of the north-east of the island. Plains and plateau are more frequent in the south-eastern parts of the country, where rich agricultural areas are dissected by beautiful limestone valleys and deep gorges. The island boasts more sunshine than any other part of Europe, and by the time of our visit the air will be filled with the scent of wild flowers and the fields carpeted with orchard blossoms. The largest of the Mediterranean islands, it is an ideal location for bird watchers and also for those with wider interests who might like to explore other aspects of the island’s rich heritage. Positioned like a stepping stone between North Africa and Italy, Sicily is well known as a flyway for springtime migrant birds which stream into Europe. Species are many and varied, from waterfowl and herons to gulls and terns. Resident species offer interest too, including one true endemic - Sicilian Rock Partridge, whilst the distinctive Sicilian form of Long-tailed Tit has recently been suggested as a future split. Passerines can be concentrated on the east coast promontories, and though we will be too early to witness the well documented passage of Honey Buzzards across the Straits of Messina, harriers should be on the move including all of Marsh, Montagu’s and Pallid.

The cone of Etna towering above the whole of eastern Sicily

A rich history saw the ancient Greeks rule the island before the Romans, whilst even the Normans held Sicily as their most southerly governing outpost. Each of these rulers has left their mark, architecturally and culturally, no more so than in Syracuse’s ancient Ortigia peninsula and in the flamboyant Baroque town of Noto. More modern historians will know of Sicily’s place amongst the hard fought battles of World War 2, solemnly commemorated by the Commonwealth War Graves cemetery. Whilst the primary focus of our tour will be on bird watching, we intend to encapsulate as much of this amazing heritage as possible, with our itinerary including a variety of different activities. These include: a visit to a vineyard for wine tasting and lunch; taking the cable car up Etna itself and continuing higher still by four-wheel drive to explore the stark summit; enjoy easy grade rambling in the picturesque Madonie mountains and a gentle stroll around Ortigia, the most famous part of stunning Syracuse, in the company of a local English speaking guide. Further, we intend this tour to be relaxing, with time to sit back and enjoy some cafe culture or a glass of wine on the hotel terrace. Add into the mix the hospitable Sicilian people and an abundance of wonderful and authentic local cuisine (simply some of the best food in Europe!) with locally produced wine and it is easy to see why this spectacular island with its broader appeal is fast becoming a destination of choice for the discerning bird watcher who wants that little bit more from a birding break. TOUR DESCRIPTION: Our five nights are based in just two centres, allowing us to minimise daily travel and make the most of our visit. From our first hotel we explore the dramatic landscapes of the interior, including Mount Etna and the Madonie mountain range, whilst the second hotel is ideally situated to explore a variety of migration hotspots which adorn the east coast. Each day will have a bird watching focus, but other activities are timetabled to embrace other aspects of Sicily’s heritage. With such memorable interludes, we believe this tour is suitable for keen bird watchers, the ‘semi-interested’ bird watcher and even for those who like to see some nice birds but who might equally enjoy time experiencing the island’s sights and traditions. We are aiming for an ambience of relaxation and fun amongst the group, with birding and enjoyment of everything that this enchanted island has to offer.

The Baroque splendour of Noto

PHOTOGRAPHIC OPPORTUNITIES: Our two bases cut down on travel time giving enhanced opportunities for photographing the bird and wildlife on offer. In addition there are few places in the Mediterranean that can rival the striking landscape and rich history of Sicily, so even those with no more than a mobile phone camera will have plenty to photograph. BIRD LIST: The list of resident birds in Sicily is not large, but each spring these are augmented by a variety of migrants on their way to Europe and beyond. Of special interest is the endemic Sicilian Rock Partridge, often a difficult species to track down but we are proud to have had success on all four of our previous visits! In addition we can expect a good selection of the following: Ferruginous Duck, Garganey, Black-necked Grebe, Greater Flamingo, Alpine and Pallid Swifts, Great Spotted Cuckoo, Purple Swamphen, Scopoli’s and Yelkouan Shearwater, Eurasian Thicknee, Marsh Sandpiper, Slender-billed, Audouin’s and Mediterranean Gulls, Gull-billed and Caspian Terns, Golden Eagle, Pallid and Montagu’s Harriers, Bee-Eater, Lesser Kestrel, Calandra Lark, Richard’s and Tawny Pipit, Red-throated Pipit, Blue Rock-thrush, Black-eared and possibly Isabelline Wheatear, Spectacled and Eastern Subalpine Warblers, Woodchat Shrike, Red-billed Chough, Rock Sparrow, Rock and Cirl Buntings.

MAMMALS AND OTHER WILDLIFE: The Sicilian countryside is rich in wildlife adding to daily interest. The Italian Hare, a Mediterranean endemic confined to Sicily and central Italy, is widespread in the uplands, as is the Fallow Deer. Pine Marten is also a distinct possibility. For those with an interest in wild flowers, orchids are particularly prevalent and include Italian Man Orchid and Yellow Bee Orchids. In fact up to 12 different species of orchids are known to have been identified along one 200 metre stretch of track! Spring comes early to Sicily and many species of butterfly will be on the wing, including dazzlers such as Italian Festoon, Common Swallowtail, Scarce Swallowtail and Eastern Orange-tip.

Sicilian Rock Partridge – the island’s endemic bird

EASE AND PACE: This will be a leisurely break and basic fitness is all that is required. Included is a ramble in the mountains where the paths and grade of walk make it easy going on moderately undulating terrain. Whilst the long spring days give us plenty of available time to achieve our birding objectives, each day will be interspersed with time for relaxation, absorbing the cafe culture of quaint village streets, taking a stroll along the shore or just unwinding on the hotel terrace. ACCOMMODATION AND FOOD: Full-board accommodation is provided, with the first two nights featuring a wonderful agriturism farmhouse near Nicosia and the remaining three nights a modern boutique hotel near Syracuse. Both hotels offer notable food and wine and rooms have en-suite facilities. Packed lunches will be taken most days. Breakfast will normally be taken at about 7.30am, with the option of one or two pre breakfast walks to suit bird migration patterns prevalent at the time.

WEATHER: Spring comes early to Sicily and outdoor breakfasts are possible even at the time of our visit. Pleasantly warm and sunny days are to be expected, with temperatures up to 22 degrees, so none of the blistering heat of summertime. Of course a little rain is always possible, particularly in the mountainous interior, but hopefully nothing to spoil the bird watching and amazing views across the countryside. PRICE: The price will be £950 per person to include six days bird watching excursions with expert leader, all travel in Sicily by minibus, full-board accommodation (starting with lunch on 7th and ending with breakfast on 12th), a guided visit to Ortigia with English speaking local guide, cable car and four wheel drive excursion on Etna, again with local guide, and a visit to a local vineyard with lunch included. Not included are international flights, your drinks during the day and with evening meals, and any personal items such as laundry. Travel insurance is compulsory.

quaint accommodation awaits

FLIGHTS: Your leaders will be using the services of Easyjet from Luton to Catania and the flight times are good. Outbound flight leaves early morning (07.45) arriving at midday and inbound flight leaves Catania at lunchtime arriving back in the UK in mid afternoon (14.45). Expect to pay £200 for the return flight at this time of year. GROUP SIZE: The tour will proceed with five group members plus a Birding Abroad leader. Maximum group size 12 plus two leaders. ITINERARY Friday 7 April - Our morning flight arrives at midday, enabling a slow drive westwards towards the remote interior, where we will be delighted to find a mix of high mountains and open steppe forming a very picturesque landscape. Stopping along the scenic roads will reveal a variety of species which find their home here and common garden birds include Serin, Spotless Starling and Cirl Bunting. Ascending from the plains we will make stops at a colony of Lesser Kestrels, and then later look for Egyptian Vultures whilst searching out sites for singing Spectacled Warblers and Blue Rock Thrushes. After checking in at our hotel, the group will enjoy relaxing on the garden terrace where we can unwind, glass in hand, whilst admiring the stunning views over Etna or enjoying the Eastern Subalpine Warblers in the garden as we wait!

Saturday 8 April – Today we will spend time exploring the beautiful Madonie mountains, searching out species such as Red-billed Chough, Rock Bunting, Short-toed Treecreeper, Hawfinch, Rock Sparrow and perhaps overhead, a stately Golden Eagle. Patience and good luck may well reveal the secretive Sicilian Rock Partridge, recently separated from its mainland cousin as a species in its own right. We take a gentle ramble along one of idyllic

Eastern Subalpine Warblers offer superb views

hiking trails in the Madonie. The gradation of the walk is classed as ‘easy’ and it follows well established footpaths alongside meadows filled with wild flowers, and then onwards through a Hazelnut woodland with stunning views across the mountains to the pretty villages below. The walk is a loop which may allow us to consolidate our views of the species mentioned above and we may be lucky and spot more Sicilian Rock Partridges from the trail. By early afternoon, we will be ready to put our feet up and have lunch in the picturesque village of Petralia Soprana, the gateway village to the Madonie. Once refreshed we will take a pleasant stroll around its narrow streets enjoying some simple but delightful sightseeing. As late afternoon approaches, we move on to Gangi, recently voted the most beautiful town in Italy! Here we can explore its hidden treasures including the church of San Nicolo complete with a crypt of 100 mummified monks, a macabre yet fascinating sight! Our charming hotel provides traditional Sicilian evening meals, washed down with appetising local wine.

Sunday 9 April - Setting off after a hearty breakfast it is a one hour drive to reach the base of the stunning and still smouldering Mount Etna, Europe’s largest active volcano. We make a very interesting visit to the lava fields which adorn the slopes to see the bare black pumice at first hand. The best way to achieve this is to take a cable car from Rifugio Sapienza which climbs to the higher slopes of the mountain and then on again by four-wheel drive to explore the rim of an old crater. This is a thrilling excursion, made all the more interesting by a local guide who will explain the basics of volcano geology whilst escorting us to the old crater. Many plants have colonised these stark slopes, including woodlands of beech, birch and pine which harbour distinctive local races of both Long-tailed Tit and Common Crossbill. Further breakdown of the volcanic material has resulted in a very fertile hinterland which supports almonds, olives, grapes and citrus groves. Cirl Buntings and Eastern Subalpine Warblers are perhaps the two most obvious songsters here, often giving close up views. Our lunch will be a taken on the mountain, before we reluctantly make the one and half hour

Lesser Kestrels nest mostly inland

drive to the south-east of the island. As we arrive at Syracuse, a small roadside wildlife reserve often hosts Osprey, small herons and Ferruginous Ducks, plus a variety of waders if the water levels are right. En-route we will call in at the immaculately tendered Commonwealth War Grave cemetery on the outskirts of Syracuse, where we can walk reflectively amongst the headstones of those from many nationalities who paid the ultimate sacrifice. After checking in at our charming hotel, we relax on the hotel terrace before our nice evening meal. Monday 10 April - The hotel is ideally situated for the Capo Murro di Porco, a garrigue covered headland which is regarded as Sicily’s number one migration hot spot. The quantity and variety of migrants will change daily, but Woodchat Shrike, Whinchat, Pied and Collared Flycatchers, several races of Yellow Wagtails, can all occur. At the time of our visit, the locally wintering Richards Pipits should still be present, whilst Sardinian and Eastern Subalpine Warblers can be plentiful at times. Nearer the sea, bare rocks and open short grass attracts Tawny Pipits and wheatears which can be present in three varieties; Northern, Black-eared and possibly even a lingering Isabelline. The headland boasts an ornate lighthouse, from where sea-watching can be productive, so we will keep an eye open for both Yelkouan and Scopoli’s Shearwaters, plus passing Audouin’s and Yellow-legged Gulls and even the occasional Bottle-nosed or Striped Dolphin offshore. Just north of Syracuse we will visit the Saline di Priolo, a wetland with an excellent boardwalk and home to Greater Flamingo, Penduline Tit and Ferruginous Ducks. Migrant waders are likely to include Spotted Redshanks, resplendent in their summer finery. Nearby the grass and thistles of the Penisola Magnisi hold breeding Calandra Larks, Short-toed Larks and Eurasian Thicknees, whilst migrant passerines find the low vegetation here ideal feeding. With luck, Tawny, Tree and Red-throated Pipits can all be found whilst Black-headed and other wagtails follow the feeding cattle. All these migrants do not go unnoticed by raptors and this headland offers one of our best chances to discover a Montagu’s or perhaps a Pallid Harrier halting their migration to find breakfast.

Montagu’s Harriers can be expected daily

By mid afternoon, we will return to our hotel for a short rest before heading to downtown Syracuse for a guided walk around its heart, the ornate and ancient Greek city of Ortigia. The tour takes about an hour and half, and our English speaking guide will explain the history and show us all the important highlights. Afterwards we stay in Ortigia for dinner at one of the lovely harbour-side restaurants, no doubt accompanied by the odd glass or two of appetising wine.

Tuesday 11 April - Our excellent base near Syracuse allows us to easily explore the bird rich south east of the island. A variety of habitats await, all providing some notable bird watching. This morning we head for the wetlands of Longarini and Vendicari on the south coast which provide further variety in the form of Penduline Tit, Spoonbills, Purple Swamphen and passage herons. The nearby disused salt ponds of the Salina di Morghello often holds Gull-billed Tern, Glossy Ibis and Garganey whilst migrant waders such as Little Stint, Wood Sandpiper and Marsh Sandpiper find the shallows much to their liking. As an alternative to birding, some will prefer to visit one of Sicily’s premier vineyards located nearby, which includes wine tasting and a sumptuous traditional Sicilian lunch. Sicily has a booming wine industry with about the same area under vine as in South Africa or Chile! Some of these wines are fast becoming acknowledged as amongst the best in Europe, including those from the Planeta vineyards which we visit. After lunch we can regroup and drive a short way inland to the impressive Cava Grande de Cassible, Sicily’s own little ‘Grand Canyon’, which cuts through the limestone plateau near Avola. The view from the top is stunning and looking down into the gorge can also produce some birds such as Sicilian Rock Partridge, Blue Rock Thrush, Alpine Swift with possible Lanner Falcon and Peregrine, whilst Spectacled Warblers and Rock Sparrow are more

Ortigia – the historic heart of Syracuse

certain. Even without any birds, this is a most impressive stop so we will take time to relax and absorb the view. As evening approaches we will descend to stroll around the elegant and historic town of Noto before heading back to our hotel where we can unwind and enjoy another fine evening meal together.

Wednesday 12 April – This is our last morning, so those keen enough may like to take a final stroll on the Capo Murro di Porco to see what new avian migrants have arrived. We will have a late breakfast, before we make the hour long journey back to Catania airport ready for our flight home to the UK.

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Cava Grande de Cassible