Weaving Norm

1.0 YARN CHARACTERISTICS FOR SHUTTLELESS WEAVING

Parameters Up to 40s Above 40s

CV% for Count Upto 1.2 Upto 1.4

Warp and Weft CSP 3200(3000) 3000(3200)

Single Thread Tenacity 20g/tex 20g/tex

CV% for Single Thread Tenacity Less than 7 Less than 7

Elongation at Break(%) Above 5.5 Above 6

CV% for elongation at break Less than 7 Less than 7

Elongation at Break(%) Above 5.5 Above 6

CV% for elongation at break Less than 7 Less than 7

CV% for TPI Less than 5 Less than 5

Uster Evenness% Less than 10% Less than 11

The yarn hairs having length more than 3mm 3 per Metre 3 per Metre

Yarn imperfection/1000m Less than 50 Less than 70

Above 100 ends/inch quality and loom running at the speed of above 500 ppm, the mill should go for 5% Uster norm for yarn.

Ring yarn elongation at breaks properties to be retained in subsequent weaving preparatory processes.

2.0 WINDING

2.1 YARN BREAKAGE

Type of Machine Yarn Breaks per 1,00,000 metres

Autoconer Good Average Poor

20 30 40

These breakage consist of A4+B4+C4+D4+C3+D3 and highly objectionable classimat faults.

2.2 CAUSEWISE BREAK-UP OF END BREAKS IN WINDING

Type of yarn Fault % of Total Breaks

Embedded Fluff 15

Loose – lint 15

Slubs 10

Singling and weak places 25

Piece-ups 10

Foreign matter/kitties 10

Other yarn faults 15

Total 100

2.3 CLEARING EFFICIENCY(%)ON WINDING MACHINE

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Weaving Norm

Type of Machine Clearing Efficiency (%)

Autoconer Good Average Poor

95 90 85

2.4 YARN CLEARING SETTING (ELECTRONICS YARN CLEARER)

Count Upto 40s Above 40s

Yarn Clearer Setting

(Electronic yarn Clearer) N 7 7

DS 2.2 2.6

LS 2.0 1.6

DL 1.3 1.4

LL 25 25

-D 20 to 25 25

-L 40 to 60 60 to 90

C 1.4 1.4

The clearer setting decides the clearing efficiency. The clearer is intended to remove A4+B4+C4+D4+C3+D3 and highly objectionable classimat faults.

2.5 WINDING SPEED

Type of Machine Winding speed m/min

Auto coner Upto 40s Above 40s

1100 to 1300 900 to 1100

For yarns meant for high reed (above 100 ends/inch)sorts, the winding speed is about 10%lower than above figures but in any case not less than 900 mpm

2.6 WINDING MACHINE EFFICIENCY

Type of Machine Machine Efficiency (%)

Autoconer Good Average Poor

90 85 80

2.7 LOSS IN STRENGTH AND ELONGATION

When the yarn from wound package is tested, the loss in strength and elongation at break should not exceed 5% of that the ring yarn.

2.8 SPLICE FAILURE

Machine Type Yarn Count Splice Failure %

Good Average Poor

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Weaving Norm

Autoconer* Upto 40s 3 7 15

Above 40s 5 10 18

The norms hold good for a minimum suction pressure level given by the machine manufacturer.

2.9 SPLICE QUALITY

Splice dimension: 1.2 to 1.4 times the parent yarn diameter

SAG-Splice appearance grade (ATIRA) : 3

Length of Splice : 3 to 3.5cm

Retain splice strength : Above 85%

Splice Breaking Ratio : Maximum 20%

2.10 TENSION ON YARN DURING WINDING

Tension on the yarn during winding should be about 10% of corresponding single yarn strength.

2.11 Wound yarn Package Variation : ±0.2

2.12 Wound yarn package weight variation should be ±0.5 to 1% of normal weight.

2.13 WINDING MAINTENANCE COST

Machine Type Maintenance Cost

(Rs./Spindle/Shift)

Autoconer 3.0

3. WARPING

3.1 DIRECT WARPING

3.1.1 MACHINE SPEED

Machine Type Machine SpeedSuper High Speed i.e. Hacoba or Benninger Warping Machine

For counts upto 40s-Warping speed should not be less than 25% of maximum speed recommended by machine manufacturer.For counts above 40s –Warping speed should be 10% less the speed maintained for upto 40s count yarnFor coloured yarn-It should be 5% less than that of corresponding grey yarn

3.1.2 WARPING BREAKAGE

Machine Type Warping Stops/400ends/1000m

Super High Speed

Warping Machine

Good Average Poor

0.2 0.5 0.7

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Weaving Norm

3.2 SECTIONAL WARPING MACHINE

3.2.1 MACHINE SPEED

Machine Type Machine Speed (mpm)

Super High Speed Sectional Warping

Machine400

3.2.2 WARPING BREAKAGE

Machine Type Warping Stops/400ends/1000m

Super High Speed Sectional

Warping Machine

Good Average Poor

0.4 0.8 1.0

3.3 CONTRIBUTION OF SPINNING AND WINDING FAULTS

Machine Type % Distribution of

Super High Speed

Warping Machine

Spinning Faults Winding Faults

65 35

3.4 CAUSEWISE BREAK-UP OF END BREAKS IN WARPING

Type of causes % of total breaks

Related to Spinning

Thin end/soft end 45

Slub/bad piecing 5

Foreign fibre 3

Others 12

Sub Total 65

Related to Weaving

Splice 5

Package faults 15

Bunches 5

Wild yarn, fluffs 5

Other 5

Sub total 35

3.5 TENSION ON YARN DURING WARPING

Tension on yarn during warping should be about 5% to that of corresponding single thread strength of the yarn.

3.6 EFFICIENCY OF WARPING MACHINE

Machine Type Efficiency (%)

Super High Speed Warping Machine 60-65

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Weaving Norm

Super High Speed Sectional Warping Machine 45-50

For coloured pattern set 30-35

3.7 WARPING KNOT

The warping knot tail should have length of 5 to 6 mm.

3.8 WARPING MAINTENANCE COST

Machine Type Maintenance Cost

(Rs/machine/Shift)

Super High Speed Warping Machine 50.00

4. SIZING

4.1 MECHANICAL STRETCH:1.0%

4.2 OPTIMUM YARN TENSION DURING SIZING

% of Single Thread Breaking Strength of Ring YarnAt Creel Between

Finishing Squeeze Roll to First Drying Cylinder

At Head Stock

Norms for yarn tension

2-3 4-5 10-15

4.3 SIZED YARN RESIDUAL ELONGATION : 4.5%

4.4 NORMS FOR GAIN IN STRENGTH AND LOSS IN ELONGATION AT BREAK OF SIZED YARN

Type of Yarn Gain in Strength Loss in Elongation

Upto 40s >25 <15

Above 40s 15-25 <15

Polyester Blended Yarn 5 – 15 <15

Based on the single thread breaking strength and elongation at break of ring yarn.

4.5 DEAD LOSS PERCENTAGE

Norms for (%) dead lossGood Average Poor

15 25 35

Dead loss % is calculated on the basis of material issued from stores.

4.6 VARIATION IN SIZDE PICK-UP

Norms for size pick-up variationGood Average Poor

±1 ±2 ±3

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Weaving Norm

Deviation from nominal pick-up %

4.7 VARIATION IN SIZE PICK-UP IN PAIR OF BEAMS ON LOOM

Norms for size pick-up variation between pair of beams on loom

±1.5%

4.8 DROPPING

Norms for size dropping: 0.10% of the size pick –up (by weight basis)

4.9 MIGRATION OF ENDS(For cylinder sizing)

Count of yarn No.of ends/1000 ends/1000m

Good Average Poor

Upto 40s 1 3 5

Above 40s 3 7 10

For coloured yarns, these values will have to be increased by 15%

4.10 LAPPERS

Lappers/1000 ends/1000m

Norms for incidences of lappers in

sizing

Good Average Poor

0.2 0.4 0.8

4.11 SIZING MAINTENANCE COST

Machine Type Maintenance Cost

(Rs./Machine/Shift)

Sucker Muller, Jupiter Benninger 150.00

5. DRAWING – IN PRODUCTION

5.1 Drawing – in production/pair of persons/8 hrs.:5500 ends

5.2 Knotter productivity : 13000 ends/operative

6. LOOMSHED : Shuttleless Loom

6.1 LOOM SPEED

Count of Yarn Loom SpeedUpto 40s Weft insertion rate (metres per minute)

should be 10 to 15% less than that of recommended by loom manufacturers for that loom model.

Above 40s Weft insertion rate (metres per minute)should be 5 to 10% less than the speed maintained for upto 40s yarn

For coloured yarn Weft insertion rate (metres per minute)should be 5 to 10% less than

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Weaving Norm

that of corresponding grey yarn

6.2 WARP AND WEFT STOPS PER HOUR

Loom Type

Sorts

Upto 40s Ne Above 40s NeWarp stops/

hr.

Weft Stops/

hr.

Warp stops /

hr.

Weft stops/

hr.

PR

OJE

CTIL

E L

OO

MTwill 1.5 0.40 1.9 0.5

Denim 1.0 0.50 1.3 0.7

Plain 1.1 0.50 1.4 0.7

Poplin 1.8 0.45 2.3 0.6

AIR

JET L

OO

M

Twill 1.6 1.5 2.0 1.6

Denim 0.8 1.3 1.0 1.4

Plain 1.4 1.3 1.8 1.4

Poplin 2.5 1.3 3.1 1.4

R

AP

IER

LO

OM

Twill 1.2 0.70 1.5 0.9

Denim 1.1 0.75 1.4 0.9

Plain 0.7 0.75 0.9 0.9

Poplin 1.4 0.70 1.80 0.9

6.3 CAUSEWISE SNAP EFFICIENCY LOSSES %

Causes % Loss in Efficiency

Warp & Weft + Interference of

Warp & Weft

7.5

Repair 1.0

Beams Gaiting/knotting 2.5

Lubrication & Cleaning 0.5

Other 0.5

Total 12.0

6.4 DROPPINGS

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Weaving Norm

Norms for Loom Droppings = 0.30% of the size yarn weight.

6.5 TIMING FOR WEAVER ATTENDING FAULTS

Time in Min.

Attending warp stop 1.00

Attending weft stop 0.18

6.6 YARN TENSION DURING WEAVING

Tension on yarn during weaving should not exceed 30% of single thread strength of ring yarn.

6.7 GAITING TIMING

Beam knotting Timing . . . . . . .. 12 min/1000 ends

Beam Gaiting without Sort Change:

Single Width Loom . . . . . . . . . 1-3 hrs depending upon the sorts

Double Width Loom. . . . . . . . . 3-8 hrs depending upon the sorts

Beam Gaiting with Sort Change:

Single Width Loom . . . . . . . . . 1 shift

Double Width – Rapier Loom . . . 2 shift

- Sulzer Loom . . . 2 shift

6.8 MANPOWER IN SHUTTLELESS WEAVING SHED

Weaver’s Assignment 8-16 looms depending upon sort particulars and loom width.

Helper Reliever 1 helper for 3 weavers

Material Handler (Weft & Cloth Carrier)

1 upto 48 looms

Fitter / Maintenance 2 persons to 48 looms

Expected operatives per 100 loom shifts

23 to 32

6.9 HARD WASTE LEVEL

SIZING

Set change waste per set 45-50m sized yarn +25m Grey yarn

Lapper 0.04 to 0.06% of sizing production

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Weaving Norm

Bad beams/soft beams 0.02% of sizing production

LOOMS

For leno & false selvedge on loom 20mm to 80mm per pick

False selvedge 40 to 20 ends in false selvedge

Total Hard Waste in Weaving 1.8%

6.10 LOOM MAINTENANCE COST

Loom Type Maintenance Cost (Rs./loom/shift*)

Projectile 35 – 65

Rapier 50 – 90

Air-jet 50 – 100

*depending upon machine model

6.11 WEAVING EFFICIENCY

Sort Minimum Weaving Efficiency %

Cotton Bottom Wear 92

Cotton Shirting 85

Coloured & Super Fine Sorts 82 to 85

6.12 GREY FABRIC DEFECTS

System Acceptable level

4 Points system 20 points/100 sq.m.fabrics

6.13 WEFT PACKAGES

Steamed weft packages are found to give better performance alongwith reduction in incidences of broken pick especially on air jet looms.

IDEAL STEAMING CONDITION

Type of Chamber : Vacuum Steam Chamber

Temperature (ºC) : 90 to 100

Steam Pressure (kg/cm2): 0.5

Time (Min.) : 20

The number of cycles depends on yarn count, TPI and package size. In general two to three cycles are sufficient.

The steam packages should be kept under covering. The conditioned packages should be consumed within 4 hours.

6.14 AIR CONSUMPTION ON AIRJET MACHINE

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Weaving Norm

Loom Width Air Consumption in Cubic feet/8 hrs.*

190 cm to 220 cm 12000 - 15000

* Depending upon the machine model and speed

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