Belize gets rave reviews from theworld’s tourism opinion-formers,but would the diving live up to itsbilling? MARIE DAVIES went to findout – photography by Marie and

Captain JAY MARTIN

HOW FORTUITOUS, I thought,that after choosing Belize as mynext dive destination a whirl of

media hype should surface around thissmall but vibrant Central Americancountry.

Just weeks before departure,TripAdvisor named Ambergris Caye its“Top Island in the World”, for its whitesandy beaches and pristine reef system,while Lonely Planet made the GreatBlue Hole number one on its “2013 Top10 Dives in the World” list. Pretty bigcalls, so I was excited to discoverwhether these accolades were deserved.

The plan was to spend two weekssampling some local diving aroundAmbergris Caye (pronounced key,meaning island), a week’s diving aboardthe Belize Aggressor III and a few daysexploring Belize’s rich Mayan historyand jungle terrain.

I have to report that two weeks wasnot enough!

Aggressor III oozes comfort andluxury, not just because of its smart andwell-planned dining and lounge areasor cosy double- and triple-roomoptions, all with en suite and TV/DVDcombos; not even because of itsspacious sun-deck, self-service free barand Jacuzzi. Oh no, this boat is ideal forexploring the world’s second-largestbarrier reef because of its massivelyspacious dive-deck.

Equipped with a large photo tableand outside toilet, each diver station has

its own convenient storage locker, and the dive platform at the back boasts two hot freshwater showers.

Greeted by professional and friendlycrew who can’t do enough to help yousettle in, before you’ve even left thedockside it’s apparent that your week’sdiving will be 5*.

Add to that the lack of time limits,unlimited nitrox and scrumptious food,and you know you’re going to have anunforgettable experience.

Running 180 miles down Mexico’sYucatan Peninsula, south throughBelize then on to Honduras, the Great

Western Barrier Reef is second in sizeonly to Australia’s Great Barrier Reef.

The Belize section includes threemain atoll groups: Turneffe, Lighthouseand Glover’s Reefs. These areas arespecial, with no fewer than sevenmarine world heritage-listed siteswithin the reef and offshore cayes.

It’s only a few hours’ sail to TurneffeReef for your first (and last) day of

BLOWING BUBBLES

IN BELIZE

☛Pictured: Exploring HalfMoon Caye wall.

CARIBBEAN DIVER

Belize_Layout 1 05/08/2013 11:22 Page 47

www.divErNEt.com

diving, then a shorter steam ontoLighthouse Reef, where most of the bestsites are found, including the famousBlue Hole (along Half Moon and LongCayes).

The boat conveniently moors right ontop of the fringing reefs, offering milesof deep drop-offs to explore.

Allowing for two dives at each site,divers can cruise the walls in bothdirections as well as the various caverns,swim-throughs, spurs and channels thatline the reefs.

Although the walls easily surpass 40m,the best stuff is found at 15-20m, or ontop in the shallow gardens.

Visibility varies from 20-30m, which

allows for some great snorkelling too,especially as the tops of the reefs aredeeper than 10m.

Having dived for 17 years but withoutdoing much Caribbean diving, mybiggest surprise was the sheer size andabundance of gigantic red barrel andyellow tube sponges littered along every wall.

Gorgonian fans, red whip corals, neonblue vase sponges and an assortment ofsoft and hard corals also inhabited thewalls, making it an animated and busyreef system and heaven for wide-anglephotographers.

IF, HOWEVER, YOU’RE EXPECTINGdive sites jam-packed with marine lifeand primary-coloured corals, you mightbe a tad disappointed. Belize diving, Isoon discovered, is more of a subtle andrelaxing experience.

You’re treated to a multitude of softcorals but in pastel and neutral colours.Feather-like plumes are a common sight,some as tall as 1.5m, like giant featherboas wafting in the gentle surge.

The marine life is scattered butsociable; nothing seems to phase fish,ray or turtle, suggesting that Belize’sheritage-listed protection is doing a fine job.

Lack of current cancels out the chanceof huge schools of pelagics, althoughschools of bigeye trevally (jack), tarponand chub usually congregate under theboat, and you’re almost guaranteed tobe pursued by a great barracuda and/or

Nassau grouper on every dive. For shark fans, there’s a healthy

abundance of Caribbean reef, blacktipand silky sharks casing the walls.

Macro-lovers will enjoy theabundance of arrow and decorator crabsfound on Lighthouse Reef, and addpipefish, pipehorses, yellowhead jawfish,channel clinging crabs, flamingo tonguesnails, squat anemone shrimp, wire coralshrimp and fireworms to the list, plus afew of the larger crustaceans such asslipper and spiny lobsters, and you havesome photographic subjects to getexcited about.

With so many spectacular sites, theboat rarely had to move far during ourweek of diving. What follows are a few ofmy favourites…

As we descend onto the wall atCathedral, we sidestep a giganticleathery red barrel sponge that on closerinspection is a marine-life mansion.

A couple of arrow crabs hide in itsknobbly creases, and inside is a group ofspiny lobsters. Rope, branching vase andstovepipe sponges cover the wall in aflurry of colour, along with beautifulbluebell tunicates, the most commoninvertebrates found in Belize.

A green moray eel pops its head out ofa hole as a Nassau grouper darts outfrom a small spur and joins our groupfor the rest of the dive. We pass ascorpionfish sitting on a coral clusterand a couple of lionfish hiding under aledge (these invasive fish are the reefs’arch-nemesis, threatening the local fish

Above: Belize Aggressor III.

Inset: The saloon is spacious and comfortable.

Below: A coney.

Belize_Layout 1 05/08/2013 11:24 Page 48

life, and the crew spend many divestrying to eradicate them, encouragingpassengers to learn to use spearfishingequipment and correct techniques toaid in the fight.

Exploring some of the shallowerswim-throughs, we come across avariety of smaller reef fish, includingfairy basslets, long-spine squirrelfish,four-eye butterflyfish and spotlightparrotfish, before investigating thepelagics under the boat. Chub, tarponand bigeye trevally all hang out there.

The boat moors up over a sandylagoon for us to dive Half Moon CayeWall at a depth of 8m.

As we jump in, Jody, our guide, spotsa well-known favourite in these parts,the sailfin blenny, hanging next to aCaribbean conch shell.

We’re impatient to get to the mainattraction, however– a spectacular wallthat begins at 10m and drops far belowthe 40m zone. As we squeeze through alarge cut in the reef, we cruise into theblue and are greeted by a small reefshark and a hawksbill turtle, unruffledby the sudden onslaught of flashguns.

Meandering past large barrel spongesand plate corals, I’m suddenly aware ofthe largest barracuda I’ve ever seen, anda black grouper, both following us.

I have been warned that this is theonly site where the grouper have beenknown to mistake a hand for a lionfish’sspines, so I keep my pinkies firmlyaround my camera housing.

Eyeing them cautiously, but taking

advantage of their curiosity, I snap awayat close quarters. We spot two more reef sharks and try to avoid the lure ofspending too much time at depth forfear of running out of time to explorethe many swim-throughs and creviceson the return journey.

Heading back to the boat, we pass a brain-coral cleaning station wherepretty blue damsels flit around in circlesand French and queen angelfish hangmotionless. More fish life joins thescene, including sergeant-majors,Creole wrasse and butterflyfish.

AS WE HIT THE SAND AGAIN, videopro Chris beckons me over to point outtwo tiny pipehorses and a pipefish in theseagrass. I throw him my “impressedgoogly eyes” look, and he fins off insearch of more macro subjects toinclude on our trip DVD.

Under the boat, our friend the giantbarracuda is back, as is a school ofbigeye trevally and large tarpon. Then a pair of inquisitive remora join the“safety stop” party. This was definitelymy favourite dive of the trip.

The wall at Dos Cocos is steep,dropping off below 40m and, as with allthe sites, it’s covered with impressivered and pink tube and finger sponges,seafans and barrel sponges.

We spot a swollen-knob candelabrumentangled by a delicate spiny sea rod,two spotted juvenile drumfish andgreen and spotted morays free-swimming along the wall. ☛

Pictured: Barrel spongeat Silver Caves.

CARIBBEAN DIVER

Belize_Layout 1 05/08/2013 11:25 Page 49

As the sun’s rays trickle down to 30m,I glance up at the coral formations thatlook like castle turrets standing toattention, with a school of small bluetangs silhouetted along its skyline actingas sentries.

Dos Cocos is one of the more activereefs in the area, with a variety of coralsand fish life to rival any aquarium.

One morning we wake to the boatgently navigating the small reef openinginto the Great Blue Hole, made famouswhen Jacques Cousteau blasted a wayinto it on a filming mission in 1971.

From the air there is no doubt thatthis hole is a geological wonder – aperfect circle more than 300m indiameter and 130m deep, surrounded byturquoise waters.

Even from the top deck, it’s hard notto be impressed by the sheer blueness ofthis deep sunken cave system.

BUT IT’S UNDER THE SURFACE that itstrue glory lies. We descend as one largegroup and a famous Nietzsche quotecomes to mind: “And when you look intothe abyss, the abyss also looks into you.”

I’m feeling quite daunted withanticipation and excitement, knowingthat the formations we’re about to seeare the world’s largest knownunderwater stalactites. A small silkyshark interrupts us briefly – a rare sight,as not that much lives inside the hole.

At 28m a cloud of icy-cold waterenvelops us, and a few metres later weglimpse our first stalactite looming outof the blue. It’s not until we reach a hugeshelf at 40m that we observe the true

scale of the ancient stalactites; thevisibility isn’t great, but it’s enough tomarvel at these giant imposingstructures.

Photography is not easy here becauseparticles make backscatter an issue,while narcosis means camera-settingfiddling that eats into your already far-too-short bottom time.

I have to remind myself to step backand appreciate the formations, becausebefore you know it your guide will beindicating that it’s time to ascend.

Off-gassing on the shallow reef belowthe boat isn’t much to write homeabout, except for the remarkably loudpistol shrimps!

Does the Great Blue Hole live up tothe hype? According to the Aggressor’sCaptain Jay there are two schools ofthought: Team “Awestruck” or Team“Meh, could have missed it”.

Above, from left: ayellow tube-sponge cluster;creole wrasse; a loggerheadturtle.

Below and inset: Belize’sBlue Hole – diving it is aunique experience.

www.divErNEt.com

I thought it was well worth it, becauseof the adrenalin rush that comes withexploring a sunken cave at 40m, and thefact that you get to tick off one of themost talked-about dives in the world!

Sorry, Lonely Planet, it wasn’t my“best dive in the world” but I wouldinclude it in my three most unique dives,along with Jellyfish Lake in Palau(technically a snorkel) and cage-divingwith great white sharks.

For non-divers or those hesitant to goto the edge of recreational diving limits,it’s possible to snorkel around the rimand still share in the exhilaration oflooking into that deep blue abyss.

To help off-gas, there’s a treat in storeas Aggressor passengers head to HalfMoon Caye National Monument, aprotected island and one of only twoCaribbean nesting areas for the red-footed booby. ☛

CARIBBEAN DIVER

Belize_Layout 1 05/08/2013 11:27 Page 51

windows almost as large as the walls toprovide uninterrupted sea views!

The dining area is large and althoughthe boat is bigger than the Aggressor ittakes only a few more passengers. Eitheror, you won’t be disappointed with theservice, food or diving. Did I mentionthe Jacuzzi? Ah yes, I think I did.

A bird-viewing platform allows you toget up close with some of the 4000inhabitants, and you’ll spot manyspecies of lizard along the nature trails,and numerous large frigates circlingoverhead, as you chow down on a tastybarbecue lunch on the beach.

For a completely different divingexperience, Ambergris Caye is whereyou’ll explore underwater canyons thatcould rival a sunken Cheddar Gorge!

DIVING AT SAN PEDRO Canyon heldmany surprises, including three friendlyresident nurse sharks that trailed ourgroup for a whole dive, and a reef systemwith rich coral growth. We observedturtles, eagle rays and a variety of fishlife, all in clear blue water.

Ramon’s Resort runs a professionaland friendly dive centre, offering localboat dives as well as a chance to snorkelwith sharks, whale sharks and manateesin season, and to explore the famous HoChan Marine Reserve.

The resort is an idyllic hideaway onlyminutes from the airport, with privatebeach and dive centre, tasty meals andfantastic service.

Definitely a romantic getaway, it alsooffers trips to Lamanai and the Altun HaMayan ruins and dugong, whale sharkand snorkelling tours.

Belize deserves a place on your ever-growing “places to dive” list, and theeasiest and most rewarding way toexplore it is on a liveaboard.

Pros are the diverse, pretty and

GETTING THERE8 10.5-hour flight from London or Manchesterto Cancun in Mexico, then fly to Belize City with Tropic Air (1hr45min) and on to Ambergris Caye (15min). Or catch an ADO first-classovernight bus from Cancun to Belize City, an eight-hour ride, www.ado.com.mx

DIVING & ACCOMMODATION8Belize Aggressor, www.aggressor.com;Sundancer, www.dancerfleet.co. Ramon’s Resort at Ambergris Caye,www.ramons.com. Du Plooys Jungle Lodge is a retreat from where tours can bearranged to the likes of Mayan ruins and Belize Botanical Gardens,www.duplooys.com

WHEN TO GO8Year-round, though winter isbest. Water temperature is24-28°C

CASH8A Belizean dollaris equivalent to US 50cents.

PRICES8Return charterflights to Cancun from£380, or from £660 withVirgin, Delta or BA. TropicAir flights on to Belize Citycost £65, and from there toAmbergris Caye £20, bothone-way prices. The ADO Cancun-Belize City bus costs £25 one way. A week onBelize Aggressor costs from £1590 and on Sundancer from £1400. Ramon’s Resortcosts from £93-273 per room per night, with a two-tank dive £48. Du Plooys JungleLodge charges £112-230 per person per night – add £16 to include all food.

FURTHER INFORMATION8www.travelbelize.org

FACT FILE

unique diving, friendlier-than-usual fishand humongous barrel and tube sponges– good vis, warm water and plenty ofmacro life too. It’s hard to get lost, as allthe dives are on walls, and there are lotsof snorkelling opportunities too.

The lack of big currents means this isnot for the adrenalin junkie seeking largeschools of pelagics and crazy drift dives.Belize is a destination for divers seekinga relaxing holiday with 5* services, awe-inspiring culture and a chance to explorea beautiful and pristine underwaterlandscape.

Aggressor Fleet works in tandem withthe Dancer fleet, and I took a peek atSundancer II, which follows a similaritinerary to Belize Aggressor. The dive-deck is a little smaller but the rooms arehotel-like, with double beds and

Above, from left:Flamingo tongue snail;remoras; green moray eelat the Cathedral site.

Below: A school of trevallybeneath the dive-boat.

CARIBBEAN DIVER

Du Plooys Jungle Lodge.

www.divErNEt.com

Belize_Layout 1 05/08/2013 11:28 Page 52