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Dive sites and endless slow dance with sea mammals including diving with mantas at night, are just a sampling of the many wonders of Kona.众多潜点以及与海洋哺乳动物的无尽曼舞，包括在夜间与蝠魟共潜，仅仅

是科纳无数奇观之一。

科纳梦幻之旅

Text & Photo Tim Rock

Kona Dreaming

KonaAMERICA

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我戴着水下呼吸器漂浮在适当的位置点，等待着一

群海豚再次地游过此地。在科纳离岸的这个与世隔绝的

海湾，正有数十只飞旋海豚游过，并向我投以好奇的眼

神。我转而迅速地潜入海中拍下了几张照片，并观察它

们是否有意与我玩耍。它们优雅轻松的泳姿，让我赞叹

不已。

在美国这一州的岛屿中，火山地形的夏威夷岛面积最

大，火山运动最为活跃；岛上最高的山峰顶上覆盖着皑

皑白雪，而在它幽深的蓝色海湾内，不时有座头鲸在此

嬉戏。这是一座相当年轻的岛屿，从海上望去，其陆表

上的熔岩区一眼可见。由熔融的岩浆所形成的河流已经

硬化成广阔的黑色地带，它们从岛上的许多斜坡往下，

流入清澈、蔚蓝的大海。

大岛的火山地形一直延续到海水底下，熔

融的岩浆在热带海水中冷却成热气翻腾的洪流，创

造出潜水客的乐园。

a hand-carved Hawaiian totem overlooks the sea on the Big island.手工雕刻的夏威夷图腾俯瞰着大岛海面。

夏威夷大岛是世界上最好的海洋活动场地之一。

Big island is one of the best blue water venues in the world.

I was floating with my snorkel in place, waiting for a group of dolphins to swim by again. In this isolated bay off the coast of Kona, many dozen spinner

dolphins were swimming by, giving me curious looks. In turn, I dipped down and snapped a few photos and see if they wanted to play. Their graceful, effortless swimming never ceases to amaze me.

Volcanic Hawaii, with snow at the top of its high-est peaks and humpback whales frolicking in its deep blue bays, is the largest and most volcanically active island in this US state. Above the surface, the lava fields of this relatively young island can be seen easily offshore. Rivers of molten lava have hardened into expansive black fields that run down the island’s many slopes and into the clear, blue sea.

The Big Island’s volcanic terrain continues

under the sea where molten lava was cooled in steamy torrents in tropical sea water created diver’s wonderland.

,, ,, ,, ,,

39EZDIVE

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38 Dream it. Plan it. Dive it

a lined tang is one of the reef fish highlighting Hawiian reefs.这条橫帶高鰭刺尾鱼让夏威夷礁石变得精采万分。

Corals have developed on the older flows, creating expansive coral gardens. Lava tubes, huge coral heads, arches and vast craters like “Au Au Crater,” all make a spectacular backdrop for underwater photography; a diver’s wonderland.

These waters hold many indigenous fish that are unique to Hawaiian waters and even unique to some of the islands within these waters. Part of the chal-lenge and fun in diving Kona is trying to identify and digitally capture these indigenous critters – butterfly-fish, wrasse and cleaner wrasse – unique to Hawaii. Photographers also seek less mobile subjects like Spanish dancers, turtles getting cleaned by yellow tangs, leaf fish and frogfish.

I was on the Kona Aggressor II standard itinerary

from Saturday-to-Saturday with five and a-half days of diving. We started our trip at Rob’s Reef to see, among many other things, dragon wrasse, gold-laced

珊瑚在年代较为久远的熔岩流中成长，形成广阔的珊

瑚花园。火山熔岩所形成的洞穴、巨大的珊瑚头、拱门

还有宽阔的火山口，如「Au Au火山口」，这些都是水下

摄影的宏伟背景；也造就了一个潜水客的乐园。

在这些水域中保存着许多本土性鱼类，它们不仅是夏

威夷水域所独有的鱼类，有些甚至是这些水域内的一些

岛屿所特有。在科纳潜水所带来的挑战和乐趣中，有一

部分是试着去辨认这些夏威夷特有的本土性小动物－－

尖嘴蝴蝶鱼、隆头鱼和医生鱼－－并且拍摄它们的身

影。摄影师们也会寻找一些活动力较低的拍摄主题，例

如：血红六鳃海蛞蝓、正在接受黄色倒吊鱼清洗的乌

龟、叶鱼以及躄鱼。

我在科纳侵略者II号上度过从周六至周六的旅程，其

间有五天半的潜水活动。我们的行程从Rob’s Reef开

Colorful parrotfish can be found on the reefs off Kona.在科纳附近的礁石上能看见色彩斑斓

的鹦鹉鱼。

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one of the thrills of blue water Hawaii is chance encounters with wild dolphins.在夏威夷水域冒险的惊喜之一，是能遇见野生海豚。

nudibranchs, numerous species of moray eels and a red-spotted sand perch.

The next day we visited further south to The Maze, where a previously unknown yellow frogfish was discovered. But it was the afternoon which has become one of the trip’s highlights. Manuka Bay, sits off a rocky lava flow, in the lee of the prevailing swell was our afternoon/evening site. Here we found calm enjoyable conditions....and spinner dolphins. What a show of aquabatics!

Spinners are known more so than any other dolphin for its leap, spin, twist, turn, and flip in mid-air. This large group of maybe 120 dolphins did not disappoint us. They played until the sun went down and also swooped by in amorous schools to the delight of snorkelers.

For those who donned a tank, Manuka produced its usual fare of critters, including large red frogfish, a lazy spotted eagle ray that gave everyone a chance to

始，在观赏到的众多动物中，有带尾新隆鱼、金丝海蛞蝓、

各种裸胸鯙和一只红色的多斑拟鲈。

第二天，我们再往南航行到The Maze，在那里发现了

一只前所未知的黄色躄鱼。不过，是那一天的下午成为这趟

行程的其中一个亮点。麦卢卡湾 位在一条滚动的火山熔岩

流外，这一处汹涌海浪中的避风港是我们当天下午/晚上的

驻留地点。在这里，我们找到了平静愉快的环境... ...以及飞

旋海豚；我们观赏了好一场精采绝伦的水上舞蹈秀！

飞旋海豚比任何其他的海豚更为人所熟知，这是因为它

们会在半空中飞跃、旋转、扭身、转身以及翻转。而为数大

约120只的这一大群海豚并没有令我们失望，它们一直玩到

太阳下山，然后一群群以充满爱恋之姿猛扑而过，让浮潜客

们欣喜不已。

Spinner dolphins are seen mating and playing in manuka Bay in the south of the Big island.飞旋海豚在夏威夷南部大岛的麦卢卡湾嘻戏交配。

42 Dream it. Plan it. Dive it

see it, Latin snapping shrimp, a little chevron tang and some eels and octopus including a stunning dragon moray eel.

Seeing Kona by liveaboard affords the opportunity to get away from the sites near town and dive some pretty remote spots. The beauty of diving here is the ease of photography and reef viewing and the water is usually extremely clear.

Most of the Kona development takes place on the old shoreline lava flows. One Kona hotel that was perched on the water’s edge had lights shining at night into the sea. And about 20 years ago, Keller Laros, a.k.a. Manta Man, noticed that light attracted plankton, the favorite food of manta rays. And sure

那些戴着气瓶的潜客们，通常可以在麦卢卡湾看到许

多小动物，包括：大红躄鱼、一只让大家都有机会一睹

风采的慵懒斑点鹰魟、拉丁枪虾、一只小火焰倒吊鱼以

及一些鳗鱼和章鱼，还有一只令人惊叹的豹纹勾吻鯙。

搭乘宿船游览科纳可以让你远离邻近小镇的潜点，并

且有机会到一些相当偏远的地点潜水。在这里潜水的好

处是可以非常容易地拍摄和观赏珊瑚礁，而且这里的水

域通常极为清澈。

科纳的发展大部分是发生在古老的海岸线熔岩流上。

一家坐落在水边的科纳酒店会在夜晚打灯，将灯光照耀

在海上。大约20年前，又名蝠魟人的凯勒．拉洛斯注意

到这些灯光会吸引浮游生物，而那些正是鬼蝠魟最喜欢

的食物。果不其然，追赶而来并在晚上觅食的蝠魟，让

这里成为一个极为令人赞叹的夜潜地点。

Seasonal humpback whales migrate from alaska’s aluetian islands to Hawaiian waters in the winter months.在冬季到来的那几个月，季候性的座头鲸会从阿拉斯加的

Aluetian群岛迁徙到夏威夷。

enough, the mantas caught on and would feed at night, making for a truly amazing night dive.

Kona’s night dive is most famous; the experience has progressed into something akin to an underwater rock concert with two dives – one in late afternoon and one at night. We went out with Keller, a char-ismatic advocate for manta protection and research, who is one of the owners of Jack’s Diving Locker. First, divers explore the reef as the sun begins to fade then come up from the dive to view a beautiful Hawaiian sunset.

Divers and snorkelers then start to show up in big numbers. Now set in a bay away from the hotel district and closer to the airport, divers, with plankton attraction lights in hand, descend into darkness. Huge manta rays glide in from the darkness to feed on the microscopic plankton attracted to the lights. As many as 30 rays have been seen on this dive. It’s an undersea lightshow as snorkelers hold on to floating rings above the action. Down below lights shine and strobes flash as huge rays gobble mouthfuls of plank-ton inches from kneeling divers. It is just wild.

There are also dolphin snorkeling operations in Kona that can be fun and produce nice interactions with spinners and other dolphins. The undersea topography of Kona has a series of deep shelves that attract various whales and dolphins as well as rays and whale sharks.

Big Island is one of the best blue water venues in the world.

Fast boasts, like the one Wild Hawaii (dive opera-tor) uses, are ideal for observing marine mammals far out to sea and getting to their habitat quickly.

At night, Kona is full of eateries and rockin’ bars. The climate is normally very pleasant. Shops provide the finest souvenirs from the ubiquitous T-shirt to some extremely nice marine art – like that featured in the Wyland Gallery – including sculptor Scott Han-son’s beautiful whale and manta sculptures.

From whales to mantas to eels and frogfish, the whole spectrum can be found here in the volcanic land of Aloha.

44 Dream it. Plan it. Dive it

Getting there: Hawaiian Airlines provide direct flights from Hawaii to China, Japan, Philippines and Korea. From July 2013, tourists from Taiwan could also enjoy the service by Hawaiian Airlines and fly to the tropical paradise within 4-5 hours.

The airport is about a 15-20 minute drive to Kona town. Strangely most hotels do not provide shuttle service. A cab will run US$35-$45 into Kona. There is a shuttle service but it runs sporadically at certain times of the day.

Visas: Residents of Taiwan, Singapore, South Korea, Japan, and Brunei can enter USA without visas. Travelers from other countries have to apply for a tourist visa in advance.

Currency: US Dollar and major credit cards are accepted.

Language: English

Electricity: 110V, standard US twin flat pin plugs.

information

交通方式：夏威夷航空公司提供夏威夷直飞中国、日本、

菲律宾和韩国的航班。自2013年7月起，台湾的旅客也可以

享受夏威夷航空公司提供的服务，只要4到5小时的航程，

即可飞抵这个热带天堂。

从机场到科纳的车程大约是15至20分钟。令人诧异的是，

大多数的酒店并不提供接驳服务。搭乘出租车进入科纳的

车资是35至45美元。机场虽然也有接驳服务，但只零星地

在一天的特定时间内行驶。

签证：台湾、新加坡、韩国、日本和汶莱的居民无需签证

即可进入美国。而来自其他国家的游客则必须事先申请旅

游签证。

货币：美元，并且接受主要银行发行的信用卡。

语言：英语

电力：110伏特，标准的美式双平脚插头。

潜水业者

www.aggressor.comwww.wild-hawaii.comwww.ilovewhales.comwww.jacksdivinglocker.comwww.gohawaii.com

科纳的夜潜最是有名，这活动已经演变成像是摇滚

乐演唱会那样的聚会。一共有两次下潜，下午和晚上

各一次。我们和凯勒一起出去，他是一个极具魅力的蝠

魟保护和研究的代言人，也是Jack’s Diving Locker

的业主之一。首先，潜水客会在阳光刚刚开始褪去时前

往珊瑚礁探索，然后结束潜水浮出水面观赏美丽的夏威

夷日落。

接着，潜水客和浮潜客开始大批涌现。现在，潜水客

们处于远离酒店区靠机场更近的海湾，在吸引浮游生物

的灯光下，慢慢没入黑暗之中。庞大的鬼蝠魟从黑暗中

滑行而入，捕食被灯光吸引过来的微小浮游生物。在这

个潜点，就已经有30只魟鱼现踪。当浮潜客们抓紧浮环

时，其下正上演一场海底灯光秀。在海底，不仅灯光闪

耀，当巨大的魟鱼在距离屈膝的潜水客几英吋之处，大

口吞下满嘴的浮游生物时，闪光灯也闪烁个不停。这里

简直就像陷入一场狂乱的风暴。

科纳也有海豚浮潜活动，不只有趣，还能制造与飞

旋海豚和其他种海豚的良好互动。科纳的海底地形有一

连串的深长暗礁，吸引各种的鲸鱼和海豚，以及魟鱼与

鲸鲨。

夏威夷大岛是世界上最好的海洋活动场地之一。

就像狂野夏威夷 (潜水业者) 中所使用的那种快艇，

非常适合在外海上用来观看海洋哺乳动物，并迅速地到

达它们的栖息之所。

到了晚上，科纳满是餐馆和摇滚酒吧。在一般的情

况下，这里的气候十分宜人。商店贩卖的是最好的纪念

品，从随处可见的T恤到某些非常精美的海洋艺术品－－

如同威兰画廊所标榜的特色－－包括：雕塑家史考特．

汉森所创作的精美鲸鱼和蝠魟雕刻品。

总体而言，潜水客们应该都会喜欢到科纳游览。在这

片火山地形的夏威夷土地上，从鲸鱼到蝠魟，以至于鳗

鱼和躄鱼，所有不同种类的鱼类你都可以在这里找到。

傍晚斜阳温暖了位在Puuhonua o Honaunau 国家历史公园圣地上的图腾。

Totems at the sacred grounds of the Puuhonua o Honaunau national Historical Park are warmed by the late evening sun.