Private Walk Greater Blue Mountains National Park-Blue Mountains National Park – Giants Stairway returning via Furber Steps - Monday 11th January 2021

The group. Left to right, Yidan, Scott, Michael, John C, John F, Kelvin, William and Brian. Photo: by a passer- by.

Title

Giants Stairway – Furber Stairs

Date

Monday 11th January 2021

Leader

Brian Fox.

Maps, etc.

Department of Lands topographic map, Katoomba, 8930- 1S, 1:25,000, Third edition GPS setting WGS 84.

Activity

/description and route

Park at the old Kiosk on Cliff Drive. Walk to Echo Point, then descend the Giant Stairway to the Dardenelles Pass walking, then west under the Three Sisters and join the Federal Pass Track to Furber Steps, and hence back to the vehicles.

Gear issues

First aid kit, PLB, GPS, 1 litre of water, electrolytes, maps, compass, block out, and hat.

Meeting point

0830 at the old kiosk, Cliff Drive.

Transport

Private vehicles

Comments

This is a pleasant day out.

The Party

Brian Fox, leader, John Fox, Kelvin Knox, Michael Keats, Yidan Saladine, Scott Marshall, John Cooper and William Howard. 8.

The Weather

A glorious still day with a few, light high level scattered clouds. Temperature range 14 to 24 degrees C.

Background Notes

1 Local Place names.

In the distance of the walk, less than 4 km there are over 80 named localities. To include them here would be writing a book. For readers interested please consult Fox, Brian, Keats, Michael and Fox, John, Blue Mountains Geographical Encyclopaedia, 2018.

2 Track Notes 3 February 20

These notes have been prepared for the record. The whole walk was on track and due to the Corona virus scare, which has decimated international tourism, the normally crowded walkways were virtually empty. There was something quite eerie to be at Echo Point and have the location completely to ourselves.

The Jamison Valley. Mount Solitary on LHS, Ruined Castle centre and Narrow Neck on RHS

Photo: Yidan Saladine.

The walk was also an opportunity to assess the bushfire damage and how long it is likely to be before we can venture down into the Jamison Valley to continue our archaeological work at Ruined Castle.

The walk was designed as a loop starting and ending at the Old Katoomba Kiosk (closed). The Prince Henry Cliff Walk is crowded with historic place names and it seems every few metres there is a lookout or point with a name on it. Brin’s encyclopaedic memory was challenged at times, but he always came up trumps.

Track Notes

We set off from the Old Kiosk, now refurbished but yet to open, GR 502 649 at 0830. Th Kedumba River was soon crossed. It was flowing strongly. Our first stop was at GR 503 647 where we stopped to gaze into Harrys Amphitheatre[footnoteRef:1]. A few metres on Withes Leap[footnoteRef:2] was in full spate. [1: Harrys Amphitheatre1 is a prominent semi-circular escarpment in Katoomba, with Katoomba Falls in the centre. Named by Philip Hammon on the 22 June 2001, after his father Henry James (Harry) Hammon (1911-2000). Name submitted to Geographical Names Board by Brian Fox and approved; Gazette No. 158, 19 October 2001. The Scenic Skyway cables cross this amphitheatre. The associated Scenic Railway has operated as a tourist venture from the early 1930s, when it was called The Mountain Devil. The Skyway has operated from the later part of 1958. The name honours Harry Hammon’s contribution to this world famous tourist destination. K 502 648.] [2: Witches Leap2 is located below the western side of Reids Plateau, Katoomba. In most early references, this name refers to a glen, gully or location, even though the word ‘leap’ is an old Scottish word for waterfall. Accessed from Cliff Drive and the Round Walk. Also spelled as The Witches Leap, or The Witch's Leap. Ref: Russell, J. The Pictorial Guide to the Blue Mountains, Katoomba Map, 1882 records, “The Witch’s (sic) Leap is easily found by the winding path which leads to the foot of the fall, with perpendicular cliffs on each side towering up to a height of 150 feet; and here will be seen one of the prettiest dells or gullies of the mountains.” Historian John Low suggests the origin of the name may have come from the Scottish miners working in John North’s coal mine, located below the cliff line, who were reminded of the folklore tale of two local ‘carlines’ (witches), who would meet of an evening at the edge of the village of Carlops and leap between two rock outcrops in a kind of aerial dance. Also called Fern Glen, Katoomba. K 501 648.]

Progressing along the pathway a lookout provided a stunning view of the Jamison Valley, All the visual reminders of the 2019 bushfires now virtually gone, GR 504 6345, 0858. By 0913 we had reached Lady Darleys Lookout[footnoteRef:3] again with spectacular views, GR 507 645. [3: Lady Darleys Lookout1 is on the Prince Henry Cliff Walk between Allambie Lookout and Kedumba View. This lookout has views towards Mount Solitary, Ruined Castle and the Scenic Railway. It is accessed via Katoomba Park or Echo Point, Katoomba. Named after Lucy Forest Darley née Brown (1839-1913), wife of Sir Frederick Darley, who administered the Colony of NSW in 1893, 1895, 1899, 1900-1902. The Darleys had Lilianfels built in 1899, and as well they owned 33ac of land in this area. Ref: The Mountaineer, 24 December 1908, p. 3 records, “If the trustees have no objection I (Frederick Darley) would like them to perpetuate the name Lady Darley and I gave the spot.” Subdivision plan for auction, Lilianfels Park, 9 January 1909. Current 2017 signage is spelled as Lady Darley Lookout. K 507 645.

]

Mitrasacme polymorpha

Photo: Yidan Saladine

The landslide that wiped out the Golden Stairs as seen from the cliff walk near Echo Point. Photo: Scott MarshallComment by Michael Keats:

From near this look out we had a good view of a section of the Causeway[footnoteRef:4] on Narrow Neck and in particular the havoc wrought by a landslide (28 July 2020) which has swept away part of the Golden Stairs[footnoteRef:5] access to the Jamison Valley and closed the walking track to Ruined Castle, (Federal Pass). [4: Causeway, The3 is another name for the First Narrow Neck constriction on Narrow Neck Plateau, Katoomba. Ref: Parish of Megalong, 9th edition, 30 September 1937. The Bushwalker, Vol. 1, 1937, p. 24. Also called First Narrow Neck. K 491 637.] [5: Golden Stairs.1 The top of the stairs is accessed via Glenraphael Drive, 2km from the intersection of Cliff Drive, Narrow Neck Plateau. The stairs descend to join the Federal Pass and/or the Ruined Castle Walking Tracks, Katoomba. Named after the hymn entitled, ‘Climbing up the Golden Stair’. Three verses and a chorus by Emma Booth-Tucker (1860-1903). The hymn was said to be sung by Salvation Army Officers when returning home after visiting miners at the Ruined Castle. "O I'm climbing up the golden stair to Glory, O I'm climbing with my golden crown before me, I am climbing in the light, I am climbing day and night, I shall shout with all my might when I get there! O I'm climbing up the golden stair to Glory, O I'm climbing with my golden crown before me, I am climbing in the light, I am climbing day and night, I am climbing up the golden stair!" Ref: Salvation Army Song Book. Illustrated Sydney News, 3 June 1893, p. 19 records, “The mines are reached from Narrow Neck by a scratch in the side of the mountains known as the Golden Stairs. It is in some places scarcely more than twelve inches in width.” K 482 637. NPWS Director of Blue Mountains Park Operations, David Crust, said extremely heavy rain caused the landslide on the Golden Stairs overnight on Tuesday the 28th of July.The landslide has cut access to the Golden Stairs from Narrow Neck, Mount Solitary and Federal Pass, near Katoomba. The landslide has left large amounts of debris including soil, rocks and trees above and below the Golden Stairs and Federal Pass.Mr Crust said, “Unfortunately we’re facing a long closure of many months to enable us to clear the landslide and make the track safe again.“There’s still a risk of further landslides along the track which will have to be assessed before we can begin work.“The first thing will be for the NPWS to engage geotechnical engineers to assess the damage and advise us how to deal with the remaining hazards and start re-building the track.”“The landslide at the Golden Stairs also closes Federal Pass Walking Track from Scenic World and inhibits access from Ruined Castle and Mount Solitary extending the closures which are still in place after the recent bush fires.It is vital people adhere to these closures as the tracks are completely blocked and there is significant risk of further landslides and rockfall.”

]

How we will see wildlife in the future. A sculpture of the common Blue Tongue Lizard, (Tiliqua scincoides) Photo: Yidan Saladine

A section of the Giants Stairway near the top. A section of the Kings Tableland forms the horizon. The Eastern Col of Mount Solitary is just visible. Photo: Yidan Saladine

At 0931 we reached the improved and upgraded Echo Point precinct. The area of hard surface is huge but designed to cope with many bus loads of tourists each day. The new peripheral walk ways are over engineered and look as though they could support a 15storey building. If this is tourism, then I do not like it.

Signage that covers our walk route. Photo: Yidan Saladine

A short deviation was made to visit the Prince of Wales Lookout where nearby we spied some small white flowers decorating a damp rock face. These are probably MItrasacme polymorpha. 0935, GR 511 641.

By 1011 we had passed the worst of the concrete jungle and arrived at the ironstone arch that provides an entrance to a viewing platform for the Three Sisters and the track head for the Giants Stairway

It was decided to have morning tea here[footnoteRef:6] [footnoteRef:7], 1011 to 1022, GR 513 639. Before morning tea, we crossed the bridge to the first sister and inspected Honeymoon Cave[footnoteRef:8] [6: Giant Stairway is the stairway leading from the cliff top adjoining The Three Sisters down the escarpment to link up to the Dardanelles Pass and the Federal Pass Walking Tracks, Katoomba. There are just under 1000 steps from the base to car park. The idea was conceived by James McKay, a municipal ranger, in 1914. Katoomba Council approved the idea in 1916. The stairway was officially opened 3pm Saturday 1 October 1932 by The Hon. Bertram Sydney Barnsdale Stevens, Premier of NSW (1932-1939). Walter Botting, another ranger, also played a significant role, along with William Carey Soper, a local real estate agent and Alderman, who helped to promote the stairway. Ref: Lithgow Mercury, 3 October 1932, p. 2. Cranney, William. Tourist Map of Katoomba and Leura, 1933. In a phone call interview with the late Ben Esgate, October 1998, he recalled his father Reubin Esgate worked with James McKay on the planning of the Giant Stairway prior to WWI. Also known as The Three Sisters Stairway. K 513 641.] [7: Three Sisters, The1 are three prominent rocky pinnacles, 922, 918 and 906 metres high at the edge of the escarpment east of Echo Point, Katoomba. The Sydney Morning Herald, 30 May 1931, p. 9 records a story that 16 year old Patricia Stone wrote about an Aboriginal legend and calling the three sisters, 'Wimalah', 'Meeni' and 'Gunedoo.' Abseiling and rock climbing were very popular activities on the middle sister until commercial groups were banned by the NPWS when this area was included in the Blue Mountains National Park in 1998. Ref: Sydney Morning Herald, 27 April 1880, p. 7 records, "Triasaxa point… It is commonly termed The three Sisters." Previously called Tria Saxa Point. K 512 639.] [8: Echo Point Lookout3 is an overhanging cave within the first of The Three Sisters, Katoomba. A seat within this cave had the name Echo Point Lookout. Echo Point could be seen from this vantage point. Ref: The Rose Series postcard, dated August 1938. This cave has also been referred to as Honeymoon Cave, Honeymoon Lookout, Lovers Retreat, The Three Sisters Lookout and Spooners Cave. K 512 640.]

Morning tea over it was time to make the descent. The stairway was busy and parties descending, and ascending were passed at various small, ‘off the stairs’ platforms. The base was reached at 1035. After a short refreshment break, we began walking the Dardanelles Pass[footnoteRef:9] (a walking track) towards the Furber Stairs. [9: Dardanelles Pass1 commences at Leura Forest and follows the base of the cliff line above the Federal Pass, and joins the Federal Pass below The Three Sisters and connects with the Giant Stairway, Katoomba. This track commemorates the ANZACs at Gallipoli during WWI. Dardanelles Pass was constructed by ranger Jim McKay and others in 1915. Ref: Lithgow Mercury, 27 August 1915, p. 4 records, “The Dardanelles Deviation.” Sketch Map Katoomba and Leura, 1919 records, “The Dardanelles.” K 516 649 to 513 638.]

Junction of the Dardanelles Track and Federal Pass. Photo: Yidansaladine

Furber Stairs. Photo: Yidan Saladine

The undulating walk was pleasant and at 1051 we arrived at the junction of the Dardanelles Pass with Federal Pass, GR 511 635. Foot traffic now increased in both directions and we were lucky at 1106 to encounter a Lyrebird working his way through his repertoire. We remained spellbound and aurally entertained for nearly five minutes. Some members of the group recorded the performance.

Cooks Crossing[footnoteRef:10] was next visited on our journey. The water flow was melodic. and we spent a little time just enjoying it all. Nearby is the big Turpentine Tree, sadly fenced off as the viewing platform requires repair. [10: Cooks Crossing2 refers to the footbridge under which the Kedumba River flows. This is also the base of Katoomba Falls and part of the Federal Pass Walking Track. Named after Sir Joseph Cook (1860-1947), Prime Minister of Australia, 24 June 1913 to 17 September 1914. Cook at the time this feature was named was the Minister for Mines and Agriculture. Ref: The Mountaineer Tourists' Guide to the Blue Mountains, 1903, p. 73. The Mountaineer, 16 September 1904, p. 3 records, “The path leads onto a bridge called Cook’s Crossing.” K 502 646.]

The Furber Stairs junction was reached at 1151, GR 500 644.

Witches Leap. Photo: Yidan Saladine

Here the party split with Kel, Foxy, William and I opting to ascend vis the Scenic Railway while the others chose the stairs.

The Scenic Railway journey is now a theatrical experience; the seats can be inclined to enhance the thrill factor; there is music from Raiders of the Lost Ark being played as the ascent starts and you enter the tunnel section. The boarding process is designed for loading and unloading a full ride in very short time. It is a money making machine and of course the exit is convoluted through the ubiquitous gift shop and eateries and restaurant. …

After exiting we visited a reproduction Steam Clock. The whole show has a Disneyland feel. We then walked back to the cars and arrived 1234 just as the walkers did. Lunch was taken in the picnic area adjoining the Old Kiosk.

Coal Mine adit, near Furber Steps on Federal Pass. Photo: Yidan Saladine

Michael Keats

Bushexplorers

13th January 2021

PW Giants Stairway to Furber Stairs 110121

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