SATURDAY, AUGUST 25, 2012

A Culinary Adventure Weekend in Vail CO

Ski towns get a bad rap. Not during the winter of course. In season they are the gem of the landscape, visitorsflocking to them with sole, unques onable purpose. Somehow once the snow melts they are o en ignored,mistakenly thought of as one note des na ons not garnering the rapt a en on they s ll deserve as mul seasonhot spots.

I’ve always loved a ski town in the summer. During my residence in Northern California I relished summer stays atLake Tahoe, hiking the ski trails and enjoying the mountain ambiance without my 400 pound ski boots which causedme to lumber like a cave woman. When the opportunity presented itself for me to experience summer in VailColorado I jumped on it. I will be quite frank; my last visit to Vail was over 5 years ago to join some summeringfriends for the local July fourth parade. I found it red and dated. I loved the spirit of the celebra on but thevisual throw back to the 1970’s heyday le a lot to be desired. I’ve heard rumblings about the updated food scene,vast remodels and updates all of which have peaked my curiosity. I went with an empty camera memory card andclean mental slate to experience what is the current Vail.

O ur weekend was ful l of varied, fresh seasonal and o en local ly-sourced cuis ine. This Heirloom Tomato salad from Sweet Bas i l wasa quintessen al summer dish and one represented the del iciousness of the most s imple food prepared wel l .

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Even the most stunning of beauty queens needs a li le li a er 50 years and Vail is no different. Holding theesteem of one of America’s most desirable ski enclaves the shine had begun to tarnish a bit. Des na on caches ll intact, 2.5 billion dollars has been pumped into the area to revive the exteriors, established and newbusinesses and streetscapes. What met me was not the red, alpine metaphor but a revived beaming new bergthat excited my sense of explora on immediately.

My first encounter was my stay at the Four Seasons Resort Vail. I pulled in at midnight, two hours a er I wasslated to arrive to a cheery valet and check in staff holding their own in the wee hours far be er than was I. Thehotel is a mere two years old and presents all you would expect in a Four Seasons with the elegant, earthyapproachable vibe of a mountain des na on. The service throughout my stay was easy and friendly. This isunques onably a luxury hotel but one for real people. No personal Learjet? No problem. Everyone is treatedequally and with the goal of an unmatched stay.

The Lionshead area offers a charming yet modern Barvarian style u l izing very ta l l bui ldings to keep vis i tor and res idents ght to themountains with easy walking access versus spreading out more horizontal ly.

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The Four Seasons Resort Vail is nestled in the middle of Vail Village making it an easy loca on for visi ngrestaurant in the Village and in the opposite direc on toward Lionshead, the completely new/redone Bavarianinspired area next to the gondola. I was joined by four other journalists/photographers to experience the culinarygems of Vail as well as different means to see the area.

Our first excursion was a cruiser bike tour of three of the stand out dining spots: The Vail Chophouse, Sweet Basiland Larkspur. A er walking through the Vail Village admiring the older Euro style buildings and high end shopswe rented cruiser bikes at Christy Sports. They fi ed us specifically and quickly with easy to ride bikes bearingshock absorbers to effortlessly glide over the charming cobblestone streets.

First stop was in Lionshead at the Vail Chop House. We landed at the restaurant pa o at the foot of the gondola. A perfect spot to perch and watch the unending mountain bikers mount the gondola to be ferried up to the top ofthe mountain to ride their bikes down. The Vail Chophouse was our appe zer stop presen ng us with a SeafoodTower that was breathtaking. Three abundant trays of fresh crab, lobster and every mollusk imaginable. I’musually a bit wary of seafood served inland despite knowing current logis cs allow fresh fish to be deliveredanywhere in the blink of an eye. The quality of the seafood brought back the memories of the same fare beingswooped from the sea before me and put on my plate. It was a spectacular sight and one that makes the center ofa party easily.

The Four Seasons Resort Vai l i s tasteful ly done in heavy stone with wood and leather accents faci l i ta ng a wel l establ ished andwelcoming feel that you’d expect in a mountain resort. The grand presenta on of the hotel and i ts appointments are though ul ly

executed to leave al l guests feel ing a relaxed sense of comfort.

(Top) Vai l Chophouse Seafood Tower, (bo om) the Chophouse’s Bloody Mary with a mass ive prawn and Jalapeno Bacon andBlueberry Lemonade. Both can be made with or without a lcohol (and both vers ions are great).

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In addi on to the seafood we tried two of their cocktails in ‘mocktail’ form. A vinegary, bi ng Bloody Mary with abehemoth prawn and strip of Jalapeno Bacon (mouth watering in the recall of it). Also a fresh Blueberry Lemonadewhich I tried later avec booze and it was just as refreshing and fun.

Next stop was Sweet Basil. Having been established for 35 years it remains the ‘go to’ spot and has become thebirth place of many high profile chefs who a er a me at the restaurant have gone on to open their ownrestaurants successfully. The sampling of sides and salads here had a dis nct truffle bent, and one that had ourgroup s ll talking about it two days later. The restaurant has a current, hip décor spanning from the entrance in theVail Village to the back room defined by full windows to the creek and green space. The cuisine was upscale andinnova ve yet with no airs.

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Last stop was Larkspur. I’d heard a lot about Larkspur and in mere moments I understood why; they care. Theywere preparing for a wedding in the a ernoon. We arrived with bike helmets on and cameras blazing to a gorgeouspresenta on of desserts we assumed were for the wedding only to learn they’d spent the me for us. Rolled conesof paper with our individual names printed on them holding caramelized popcorn, a beau ful small cake fit for awedding, truffles, handmade truffle pops, and a Panna Co a to die for. Despite their countdown to the wedding thepastry chef and Execu ve Chef made the me to greet us, tour us through the outdoor wedding site beingconstructed on their side lawn and show us their pe te garden from which they harvest herbs and micro greens forthe restaurant’s dishes. Food can be great at a restaurant but intent can be lacking and with Larkspur I felt thewhole package. They made a las ng impression and I can’t wait to go back.

The food served at Sweet Bas i l was flavorful and a modern riff on more upscale comfort food. (Top) W hipped truffle rico a toast withshitake mushroom and sesame heirloom kale. The ‘Smash’ cocktai l with cranberry and pineapple juices . The ‘Bright and Sunny’

behind with coconut mi lk, l ime and ginger beer. (Middle) A savory bowl of mussels and crusty, rus c bread for dipping. (Bo om)Truffle Parmesan fries and black truffle devi led eggs with pickled mustard and di l l . No ques on why they are the cornerstone ‘go to’

eatery in Vai l .

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We split for the a ernoon all able to explore Vail through our chosen excursion. The breadth of op ons wasendless from learning to paddle board, touring the mountain top via jeep, rock-climbing to fly fishing. My choicewas something I love to do and feel it a wonderful way to see a new area; on horseback. I rode the gondola to thetop of the mountain to the site of Vail Stables on mountain venue. As luck would have it my early sunset ride wasjust Wrangler Carsten and I. My trusty stead Diesel, when not striving to eat weeds, aptly toured me up and overthe mountain, through vast glens of towering Aspen trees, with vistas of the distant mountain ranges all under thecerulean skies we in Colorado count on for over 300 days a year. The ride was about an hour long and as with moststables offers rides for all skill levels. The horses are well trained so even if the riders aren’t it is a fantas c andvery Western way to enjoy Vail mountain in summer.

(Top) Larkspur ’s extraordinary Panna Co a and my personal ized caramel ized popcorn cone, (middle) a Larkspur tas ng of some l ightdessert wines and Port, (bo om) Execu ve Chef Richard Hinojosa and a par ng gi of his Bacon Jam which they use in a

deconstructed O ysters Rockefel ler dish.

Vai l Stables has two loca ons. I rode from the outpost on top of the gondola l ine on the mountain. The Wranglers were helpful andexperienced, the horses seasoned. I t was a wonderful way to view the top of the world from Vai l Mountain. They conduct several

rides a l l through the day.

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A specific mission I bore was to find a cocktail hot spot (regular readers will not be surprised). My posse joinedme at Frost the hip, happening bar at the uber cool Sebas an hotel. Si ng at the cobalt blue hand-blown glassbar we ordered a sampling of Frost’s drinks delving more into the seasonal and unique. My fave’s? The CrippleCreek, a bourbon lover’s dream with bourbon, chartreuse, basil and mint from the hotel’s garden all muddled into amurky green sophis cated liba on. The other, Elixir No. 16, a summer sipper made light with St. Germaine,Prosecco, club soda and fresh berries. Frost was kind enough to share the recipe for readers to enjoy a taste ofVail at home.

(Above le ) El ixi r No. 16 with recipe below, (above right) Cripple Creek cocktai l , (below) Cory one of Frost’s stel lar mixologists whowhipped up and walked us through every detai l of Frost’s clever cocktai ls .

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Frost Bar’s ELIXIR N O. 16

Yield: 1 cocktail

Ingredients:

3 ounces Lamarco Prosecco

1 ½ ounces St. Germaine liqueur

2 ounces Club Soda

Fresh in season cantaloupe or berries

In a wine glass pour the first three ingredients over ice. The soda controls the level of sweetness so taste to adjustfor your preference. Add finely chopped cantaloupe or fresh berries; s r. Garnish with a berry.

We dined at the Solaris a new chic, majes cally scaled plaza in Vail Village, a key addi on from the expansion. Do ed by art (as is all of Vail Village and all the community parks through a very purposeful art share program) thenightscape was mesmerizing with a signature modern sculpture illumina ng in alterna ng tones lending itself to acosmopolitan feel. Matsuhisa, our dinner spot followed suit with soaring ceilings and contemporary touches. Therestaurant was packed inside and out where we dined on the pa o. Definitely a local hot spot, Matsuhisa offersJapanese cuisine from fresh sushi to more tradi onal dishes as well as South American fusion dishes.

With a bit of me to individually meander on Sunday, I enjoyed a walk through the Vail Farmer’s Market following afarm-fresh lunch at Elways (click here for details). The verve was undeniable, streets filled with live music, freshfoods, ar san foods, art and cra s. Ac vi es for children and adults alike make this a des na on with equalopportunity for any age, singles, couples or families.

The architectural juxtaposi on of Euro-alpine to sophis cated modern can be found throughout Vai l Vi l lage and i t works togetherwel l to create an eclec c, interes ng townscape.

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With far more I wished to do than me at hand I poked into some excursions I’ll bookmark for a future trip. TheFour Seasons Resort Vail offers an exci ng new ou ng ge ng lots of press; wild mushroom foraging. Along witha mycologist (mushroom expert) groups will head up into the mountains seeking the delicious, culinary mushroomsgrowing wild to bring them back and cook them up.

I had hoped to go fly fishing when in Vail but sadly I could not squeeze in one more thing! More than wan ng to flyfish I thought it would be fantas c to have the fishing ou i er then cook up your catch for dinner. With somesleuthing I learned of two excursions where they do just this. Local chef, restaurateur and Top Chef contestantKelly Liken leads a two day ‘Float, Fish and Feast’ fishing trip in which she’ll also cook up your catch. NearbyMinturn Anglers offers a ‘Cast and Taste’ excursion in which you catch your fish and they prepare a wine pairedfour course dinner with it. They are not inexpensive ou ngs but the unique opportunity to experience the Vail areain this way would be a memory-maker.

The Flame restaurant at the Four Seasons Resort Vail was our go-to for breakfast and a fantas c dinnershowcasing their finest dishes from beau fully prepared steak sliced tableside by the chef and fanciful desserts ofMaple Bacon donuts, deconstructed Snickers bars in ny Mason jars. Being gluten free the chef graced me withmy own Lemon Crème Brulee made in a hollowed out lemon served with chopped strawberries and other seasonalberries. It was sublime.

The Flame restaurant is a modern steakhouse and they are undergoing a menu change to offer approachabledishes of a classic American steakhouse that also bear an element of fun. The tableside service allows diners tobe more connected to the kitchen and chat directly with the chef and family style dishes will suit dining groups topass and share, with tables employing high end ‘lazy Susans’ to make the task effortless.

The weekend gave pause for thought. I felt Vail elegantly schooled me with all the updated sites, tastes, andac vi es that are readily available and abundant in the summer. There was not a fondue pot in sight and no senseof a seasonal slowdown due to no snow. Whether interested in a low key sightseeing venture, spa weekend, uberac ve sporty vaca on, all with cu ng edge food and drink, it can be found here. There are concerts, botanicalgardens, museums to be explored, every sport imaginable all wrapped up the feeling of summer.

Candidly I was surprised by how large the Vai l Farmer ’s Market is . I t touts being one of the largest in the state and is divided fa irlyevenly between actual farms, ar san foods and ar san goods.

O ne of F lame’s many highl ights are a l l the unique sauces they make from scratch (even the ketchup). We may even see those for saleat the restaurant in future. (Right) Lemon Crème Brulee presented in an actual lemon.

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Posted by Boulder Locavore at 7:49 AM

Labels: #GirlsGoneVail, #VailSummer, CO travel, Four Seasons Resort Vail, Frost bar, gondola, Larkspur Vail, Matsuhisa, St. Germaine cocktail recipe,

summer travel, Sweet Basil, Vail Chophouse, Vail Stables

When was the last me you visited Vail in the summer? It’s definitely me to go.

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Tha nk you s o much for ta ki ng the me to re a d a nd I’d l ove to he a r yourthoughts ! I a ppre ci a te you l e a vi ng a comme nt be l ow a nd pl e a s e note‘ANONYMOUS’ comme nts wi l l not be publ i s he d.

6 comments:

The Mom Chef Augus t 25, 2012 8:54 AM

I l ove , l ove , l ove the s e re vi e ws . I fe e l a s though I l i ve d thi s tri p wi th you. Ja l a pe no ba con wra ppe d a round s hri mp? WOW. I s owa nt to go on tha t hors e ba ck ri di ng tour wi th you (I a dore hors e ba ck ri di ng). And I wa s mos t e xci te d tha t you s ha re d the El i xi r No.16. I l ove St. Ge rma i ne a nd i t's my one s pl uge l i ba on.

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Debra Eliotseats Augus t 25, 2012 9:59 AM

I a gre e wi th you a bout s ki towns i n s umme r. Thos e cockta i l s /mockta i l s l ook a ma zi ng a nd I wa nt to wra p s ome ja l a pe no ba cona round a gi a nt pra wn for a ppe ze rs .

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Chef Connie Augus t 25, 2012 1:26 PM

Love the he a vy us e of ba con! You ha ve once a ga i n ma de me wa nt to hop i n the ca r a nd he a d out a round Col ora do.

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Cooking with Michele Augus t 25, 2012 4:19 PM

I s ome how mi s s e d tha t Che f Hi nojos a ha d l e Hote l Je rome for La rks pur - ni ce to s e e hi m s mi l i ng i n your pos t!

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Rebecca Subbiah Augus t 26, 2012 8:49 PM

wow wha t a fa b we e ke nd

Re pl y

Lauren Hendrick Augus t 27, 2012 7:06 AM

You ca pture d the we e ke nd pe rfe ctl y :)

Re pl y

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