bucharest city guide 2012

CITY GUIDEBUCHAREST 2012

BR CITY GUIDE 2012 | 1

Benefiting from the expertise and Western media standards ofa mixed local and expat team of journalists, Bucharest CityGuide brings you the must-read insider’s lowdown on what tosee, where to eat and what to do in Romania’s vibrant capitalcity.

With a portable and easy-to-use format, the guide is dividedinto four sections and features two maps. The sections are:Tourist Info – how to get around Bucharest; Sightseeing – withsubsections on Landmarks, Byzantine Bucharest, Museums,Souvenir Shops and Guided Tours; Old Town – the historicalzone bustling with restaurants, bars, terraces and cafés at thevery heart of the city, with accompanying map; andRestaurants – our recommendations of the best places to eat,organized by type of cuisine (including the top restaurantsserving Romanian food). Venues are marked on the map bysymbols reflecting the type of establishment they repr esent.

Business Review – Romania’s premiere English-languagebusiness weekly – has been covering the local economy andfinancial environment, within a broader socio-cultural per-spective, for more than 14 years.

BR GuidesPublished by Bloc Notes MediaEditors: Debbie Stowe, Oana Vasiliu • Sales: Oana Molodoi Publisher: Anca Ionita • Cover Photo:Mihai Constantineanu

Contacts:Editorial: [email protected]: [email protected]

www.business-review.ro

BR City Guide

2 | BR CITY GUIDE 2012

TOURIST INFOARRIVAL

AIRPORT: OTOPENIThe only commercial airport inBucharest is now Henri Coanda –Otopeni, situated 17 km north ofthe city. Taxis, trains and busesgo to the city center. Ignore thetaxi drivers who will assail youas you make your way throughArrivals. To pay a fair price for aride into the city, walk throughto Departures and pick up a regu-lar taxi when it drops somebodyoff. Honest taxi firms chargebetween RON 1.39 and RON 1.69per kilometer.

A cheaper alternative is takingbus 783, which stops in front ofthe Domestic Arrivals hall andgoes to the city center, stoppingat Victoriei Square, RomanaSquare, Universitatii Square andterminating at Unirii Square.Buses theoretically run every 30minutes from 05:25 to 23:00. The780 connects the airport with thecentral train station, Gara deNord, with the same timetable.An express bus journey costsRON 7 (travel within the city ischeaper) and you need to pur-chase an Active Card beforeboarding, which costs RON 3.5and can be topped up at any tick-et kiosk in Bucharest for allmeans of transportation inBucharest: buses, trams andmetro.

The airport is connected toBucharest by railway line. The

train departs at irregular inter-vals and you need to take aminibus to get to the airport sta-tion. Timetables and tickets areavailable in the Arrivals hall.

RAILWAY : GARA DE NORD If you arrive in Bucharest bytrain it will be at Gara de Nord.There are ATMs, shops, kiosksand fast-food restaurants. Ifyou’re hailing a taxi, walk somedistance from the station first, asthe drivers that loiter in this areawill rip you off. To get to the air-port from Gara de Nord, take bus780.

PUBLIC TRANSPORT

SUBWAYOpen: daily, 5:00 - 23:00;Tickets: RON 4 (90 cents)/roundtrip;RON 6 (aprox 1.25 euros) daily card

The metro system is the cheap-est and easiest way to get aroundif you don’t know Bucharest andalso the quickest, although thenetwork is not comprehensive.There are four lines, numberedfrom M1 to M4. It’s particularlyuseful for north-south journeysalong the central axis of squares(M2), mainly Unirii to Aviatorilor. Tickets are on sale from kiosksnear the ticket barriers and mosttrains have maps. For the localversion of an Oyster card, whichcan be used also for buses and


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Rush hours might cause traffic congestion

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trams, ask for instructions at theticket kiosks.

BUSES AND TRAMSOpen: 5:00 - 23:00Tickets: RON 1.3 for urban lines;RON 3.5 for express lines

Buses and trams are more com-prehensive and frequent. Youcan buy electronic passescharged with a certain number ofjourneys which must be touchedin on board; most stops have aticket kiosk.

TAXISTaxis, which are still cheap byWestern standards, can bebooked by phone, hailed on thestreet or found at taxi ranks (themost central one is located nextto the Intercontinental Hotel). Ifyou don't book, be sure tochoose a reputable cab – look forthe tariff displayed on the door,

which should be RON 1.39 (lessthan 50 cents) per km. A higherrate of RON 3.5 per km is chargedby few companies. These are thetaxi companies that we recom-mend for booking by phone:

AUTOCOBALCESCUPhone: 021.9451Rate: RON 1.39 / km

CRIS TAXIPhone: 021.9466Rate: RON 1.39 / km

GRANT TAXIPhone: 021.9433Rate: RON 2.19 / km or RON 3.49 /km, depending on the type of car

LEONEPhone: 021.9425Rate: RON 1.39 / km

MERIDIANPhone: 021.9444Rate: RON 1.4 / km


OLD TOWNThis thriving pedestrian area at the very heart of the city,with its intricate narrow streets full of small shops, ter-races, cafés, bars and restaurants, is also the placewhere several layers of 550 years of Bucharest’s docu-mented history overlap, conveying the image of a city inconstant transformation.

The 16th-century ruins of the Old Princely Court (CurteaVeche), the capital city of Wallachian princes since Vladthe Impaler (Dracula), lay in the vicinity of undergroundmural remains of 17th-century buildings. The archeologi-cal site on the main street of Lipscani brings to light thered-brick ruins of one of the many inns built in this area,which got its name from the town of Lipsca (Leipzig). TheGerman city was at that time the trading partner for thelocal merchants and artisans who had their busy shopson what was, from the mid 16th to late 19th century, themost important commercial area of Bucharest.

The narrow streets around the Old Court were namedafter the artisan guilds that had their workshops here (forexample Selari Street). Many churches and monasteries,built in the local Brancovenesc architectural style, dot theOld Town. Also known as the town of inns, the neo-classi-cal facades of the Lipscani buildings erected after 1850are part of the modernization of the capital city under therule of King Carol I. All important historical buildingsconstructed during this time on the ruins of old inns, fromthe Central Bank to the National History Museum, weredesigned by French and German architects.


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LANDMARKS

THE CENTRAL BANK - BNR25 Lipscani StMAP p13 C4

Possibly the Old Town’s flagshiplandmark, the headquarters ofBNR – Romania’s National Bank –is another neo-classical master-piece, again with French archi-tects at the helm. Constructed in1885, the building boastsCorinthian columns and marblehalls inside. Though its size andsmartness put it somewhat atodds with ramshackle Lipscani,its grandeur is not dented.

HANUL LUI MANUC(MANUC INN)62-64 Franceza St, tel: 021.313.14.11MAP p13 C4

Built near the Old Princely Courtby an Armenian merchantknown as Manuc Bei in 1806, thewooden inn’s open architecture,with its galleries that look upon agenerous inner courtyard, wasinnovative for its time. Recentlyreopened after renovation works,the historical building todayhouses three restaurants,Romanian, Lebanese and Italian,and a café.

HANUL CU TEI (THE STREET INN)63-65 Lipscani StMAP p13 C4

One of the few well preservedstreet inns, Hanul cu Tei wasbuilt in 1833 by two merchants,Anastasie Hagi Gheorghe Polizuand Ștefan Popovici, who owned

several shops located over high-ceilinged cellars. Both theLipscani and Blanari Streetentrances are guarded by talliron gates that used to be closedby night, for the safety of travel-ers and goods. Today, the innhosts art galleries, antique shops,cafés and restaurants.

CURTEA VECHE (OLD PRINCELY COURT)27-31 Franceza St, tel: 021.314.03.75MAP p13 C4

Dating back to the 15th century,the Old Princely Court is a realslice of Bucharest history. Builtduring the reign of Vlad III (akaDracula), it has since undergonerestoration. Hitherto overlookedas a tourist attraction, efforts toimprove and promote the OldTown should see Curtea Vechegain a deserved foothold on thevisitor’s map.

VILACROSSE MACCA PASSAGEIn between Calea Victoriei andLipscani StreetMAP p13 B4

A walk through the Vilacrossepassage can take you back intime to late 19th-centuryBucharest, provided you visit itat the least crowded hours of theday. The passage, which nowhosts numerous pubs and coffeeshops, links Calea Victoriei to theCentral Bank on Lipscani Street.The U-shaped skylight-coveredpassage was built in 1891 by FelixXenopol and carries the name ofCatalan architect XavierViacrosse, who moved toBucharest and served as the cap-ital’s chief architect from 1840-

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1850. The passage has twobranches: Vila crosse (which facesLipscani) and Macca (name afterthe brother-in-law of the pas-sage’s constructor). In betweenyou can find, among other ven-ues, an Egyptian-themed coffeeshops, a Chinese restaurant, andthe Opium Stage Club.

STAVROPOLEOS MONASTERY4 Stavropoleos St,www.stavropoleos.roMAP p13 C4

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SUTU PALACE – BUCHARESTCITY MUSEUM2 I.C. Bratianu Blv, tel: 021.315.68.58,www.muzeulbucurestiului.roMAP p13 C3

The lavish neo-Gothic style pala-ce was built in 1832 by one of thewealthiest aristocratic families,the Sutus. Sculptor and decora-tor Karl Storck added a grand

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central staircase, transformingthe place into a ball venue.Today it hosts the city’s muse-ums, with a permanent urbanand anthropological collection,as well as a pinacotheque whichincludes major Romanian andEuropean painters.

RESTAURANTS

BELLINICuisine: Italian2 Ion Ghica St, tel: 021.310.29.78MAP p13 C3

If you are in the area and youcrave a pizza or any other Italian“al forno” dish, this is the bestplace to go. Pasta fans should trytheir tortellini “al forno” or the“cannelloni della nona al forno”.The fish dishes are also a special-ty, as is the wide range of pizzas.Another plus is the quality of thefood.

CARU’ CU BERE Cuisine: Romanian 5 Stavropoleos St, tel: 021.313.75.60, 0726.282.373MAP p13 B4

Be prepared for the full range ofRomanian dishes served in theoldest beerhouse in the city.Opened in 1879, this historicallandmark is one of the few ven-ues in Bucharest preserved assuch, with architecture thatreminds visitors why Bucharestwas once dubbed the “littleParis”. Distinctive elementsinclude the murals, stained glassand carved cross-beams. Alongwith the beer, made to a secretoriginal recipe, The Beer Cart is

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FOWhere futuremeets the pastBucharest’s Old Town is the place where the capital city’s 553-year history blends harmoniously with the vibrant rhythms of the21st century. Sit and admire the slender silhouette of the OldPrincely Court ruins from the open terrace of a trendy restaurant.In a space where tradition and change merge seamlessly, usingyour Visa card instead of cash to pay the restaurant bill feels likethe natural choice.

The vast majority of the coffee shops, terraces and restaurants inBucharest accept Visa card payments. It's a more convenient andsafer way to pay, as you don't need to carry large amounts of cashon you. Because most of the POS terminals accept Chip & PINcards, you will probably need your PIN to pay by card.

The best way to pay in Bucharest

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The Old Princely Court


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also famous for its atmosphere.The place is packed all week.

CHARMECuisine:Mediterranean 12 Smardan St, tel: 021.311.19.22,www.charme.roMAP p13 C4

A minimalist design, classyatmosphere and a well-balancedmenu that combines some finepasta dishes, including seafoodand fish, with generous steaksand a good selection of desserts.

DIVANCuisine: Turkish

46 Franceza St, tel: 021.312.30.34,www.thedivan.roMAP p13 C4

They have a larger selection ofkebabs on offer than their com-petitors and this includes beef,lamb, beef and lamb combo,chicken and marinated meatstuffed in an eggplant. It is vastlysuperior to other Turkish eateriesin town and has a larger menu.The evening entertainment pro-gram comprises belly dancers.

LA BONNE BOUCHECuisine: French30 Franceza St, tel: 0731.247.876,www.bistrovin.roMAP p13 B4

One of the best French bistros intown is also one of the mostcrowded venues in the historicalarea (make a reservation). Theclassic menu includes both meatand fish dishes, while the winelist features special labels thatare hard to find elsewher.

LACRIMI SI SFINTI (TEARS AND SAINTS)Cuisine: Romanian

16 Sepcari St, tel: 0725.558.286,www.lacrimisisfinti.comMAP p13 C4

If your Romanian friends inviteyou to taste the “modern local cui-sine”, make sure they haveenough money to pay an extreme-ly pricey bill that is not quite justi-fied by the quality of the food.Owned by a famous local poetturned chef, the restaurant thrivesmore on his persona than on thelocal culinary specialties.

CRAMA DOMNEASCACuisine: Romanian13-15 Selari St, tel: 0726.322.004,www.cramadomneasca.comMAP p13 C4

Serving up Romanian cuisine atits best, from the classic soursoups, “sarmale” and “mici”, tolarge pork steaks and eggplantsalad, the restaurant locatedopposite the National Bank alsohas a good selection of housewines.

The service is friendly andthe live “taraf” music programlends the place its unique atmos-phere.

BARS & PUBS

ABSINTHERIE SIXTINA1 Covaci St, tel: 021.310.35.66MAP p13 C4

Under the “Liberte, egalite,absinthe” motto, thepub/café/bar offers a plethora of

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alcoholic beverages, from winesand beers (including a widerange of Belgian beers) toabsinth, of course.

The music is not too loud andnot too commercial. Anotherplus is its capaciousness, as ittakes up an entire floor of an oldbuilding, and never seems toocrowded.

Adding to the charm there isthe small balcony, home to justone table with two chairs.

BIUTIFUL7-8 Gabroveni StMAP p13 C4

The coolest new place on thecrowded Old Town map, this baris a happy combination of trendyinterior design, excellent (yetaffordable) food and good qualityservice.

Both the beef burger and thechicken and lamb kafta servedwith tzatziki salad are worth try-ing, alongside one of the manychoices of beer, wine and non-alcoholic drinks on the house list.

BEER O’CLOCK4 Gabroveni St, tel: 0735.187.012,www.beeroclock.roMAP p13 C4

Welcome to beer land, whereeven the most knowledgeabledrinker can be pleasantly sur-prised by the taste of a newbrand from the 164 kinds onoffer at this beerhouse.

The 30-page menu reads likea book, providing inside infor-mation on taste, ingredients andthe brewing process. Prices rangefrom RON 10 (about EUR 2) for aCzech Primator Dark pint to RON

300 (around EUR 66) for a SinkThe Bismark Scottish beer with41% alcohol.

INTERBELIC1 Selari St, tel: 0722.100.193MAP p13 C4

A well-hidden location, at theintersection of Blanari Street andLipscani, the bar’s intimateatmosphere gives you those longawaited moments far from themadding crowd.

The friendly staff and reason-ably priced drinks make theplace a target destination forlocals and expats.

MOJO14 Gabroveni St, tel: 0760.263.496,www.mojomusic.roMAP p13 C4

Split between three levels, thisBritish-themed joint has a roomycellar, which hosts live rock, jazz,blues and folk bands and stand-up comedy, a bar on the groundfloor and an upstairs karaokelounge, open nightly, where eventhe most feeble attempts to singare warmly applauded by thefriendly crowd.

In its short lifespan MoJo hasestablished itself as something ofan institution, thanks to the jollyatmosphere and events.

CAFÉS

CHOCOLAT12A Calea Victoriei, tel: 021.314.92.45MAP p13 B4

Located right next door to Carulcu Bere, Chocolat stands out as a

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unique mix of bistro, coffeeshop, bakery and confectioneryoutlet to offer freshly madeproducts, all using natural ingre-dients.

There is a non-smoking sec-tion, and a terrace for warmdays.

The menu starts with brunchofferings, extending through sal-ads, snacks and pasta to dinnervarieties, a selection of cakes andpralines made with Belgiumchocolate, pastry and Frenchbread.

GRAND CAFE VAN GOGH9 Smardan St, tel: 031.107.63.71,www.vangogh.roMAP p13 C4

Classiness ooziness from thehigh ceiling, understated wood-en furnishings and thick drapesat the entrance, and there’s arange of fresh, simple and appe-tizing eats and drinks appropri-ate for all times of the day.

The delicious smoothies andluxury hot chocolates are justtwo of the many highlights.

In summer you can avoid thesmokiness by sitting on the ter-race.

KLEIN CAFÉ11 Smardan Str, at Rembrandt Hotel mezzanine, tel: 021.313.93.15MAP p13 C4

Finding a quiet place in thebustling Bucharest Old Town canbe a challenging task. Add to thatthe non-smoking policy and youhave a unique and winning com-bination for Klein Café.

Located on the mezzanine ofthe Rembrandt Hotel, next doorto Van Gogh Café, it can be easyto miss unless you are specifical-ly looking for it.

And if you do, you can expectfriendly service in a cozy andrelaxed setting.

The place is good for businessmeetings or as an out-of-the-office work space as it offers freewireless internet and a quiet spotin a central part of the city.

NIRVANA16-20 Calea Victoriei,tel: 0722.658.126,MAP p13 B4

Located in the Vilacross MaccaPassage, this high-ceilinged,two-storey cafe is one of the bestplaces in town for Nargile smok-ers.

The Italian house menuincludes a wide variety of pizzas,at affordable prices.

VALEA REGILOR16-20 Calea Victoriei, Macca-Villacross Passage, tel: 021.311.29.69MAP p13 B3

Th e famous Turkish coffee pre-pared on sand, peppermint tea(erfe) and non-alcoholic wine(karkale) are only a few of theOriental aromas that blendtogether in this beautifully deco-rated place located in theVillacross passage.

Sights & Museums

Landmarks, RestaurantsBars & Pubs, Cafés

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SIGHTSEEINGRomania's checkered history is written large on the faceof its capital city, which boasts an eclectic mishmash ofarchitectural styles and eye-catching structures. It'sworth taking a while to stroll through the center of town;almost any wander will take you past some striking andattractive buildings. However, there are a few landmarksthat merit being sought out. Most are on or around CaleaVictoriei, one of the city's two main north-south thorough-fares, so easily visible on a walking tour.

The Arch of Triumph

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ARCH OF TRIUMPHPiata Arcul de Triumf, Sos Kiseleff MAP p32 A1

One of the first flagship pieces ofBucharest architecture visitorssee en route into town from theairport, the current struc turedates from 1936, though the sitehas hosted an arch since a wood-en one was thrown up to com-memorate Romania's independ-ence in 1878. Soldiers still paradebeneath to mark Romania'snational day, and the arch is alsoa favorite for wedding photos.

THE ATHENAEUM1-3 Franklin St, opposite the Hilton Hotel MAP p13 B1, p32 C4

Probably the city's most beauti-ful building, the Athenaeum is aneoclassical delight. It opened in1888 after being made possibleby public donations. Catch a con-cert for an opportunity to admirethe fabulous frescoes.

BELLU CEMETERY249 Calea Serban Voda, tel: 021.636.35.71, www.bellu.ro

The final resting place of almostevery great Romanian academic,artist, writer, musician, poet andpolitician is the Bellu Cemetery.Many of the graves have specialmonument-like designs. Since2011 the site has been included inthe European Cemeteries Route,a mosaic of Europe’s diversefunerary art and customs overthe last two centuries.

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CEC PALACE / THE SAVINGS BANKCalea Victoriei, opposite the HistoryMuseum MAP p13 B4, p32 C6

Built in 1900, this must rank asone of the most attractive banksanywhere.

Capped by a dome, it featuresan eclectic array of architecturalstyles and exudes Renaissanceelegance.

Arches, columns and spiresall compete for your attention.When lit up at night it is glorious.

GEORGE ENESCU MUSEUM /CANTACUZIONO PALACE141 Calea Victoriei, tel: 021.318.14.50,www.georgeenescu.roMAP p32 B3

Romania's most illustrious musi-cal son is celebrated morefamously in the biannual festi-val, but his museum is housed inthe Cantacuzino Palace, a lesserknown Bucharest gem.

Dating back to the early 20thcentury and resulting from anarchitectural collaboration,sculptures adorn the elegantfaçade, creating a truly impres-sive spectacle.

PATRIARCHAL CATHEDRAL21 Dealul Mitropoliei St.MAP p32 C6

Considered one of the most mostvaluable historical monumentsof Wallachian religious art of the17th century, the site has beenthe center of the RomanianOrthodox Church since thosedays and houses the cathedraland the residence of the head of

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Stavropoleos Monastery is located in the heart of the Old Town

the church, Patriarch DanielCiobotea. Although the buildinghas had a number of facelifts, themajority of the cathedral’s struc-ture is still original, builtbetween 1654 and 1658.

PEOPLE'S PALACE2-4 Izvor St, tel: 021.316.03.00 MAP p13 A5, p32 B6

Though often dubbed a mon-strosity and a monument toCeausescu's megalomania, thereis no denying that the dictator'svanity project, whose recordsinclude the world's largest civil-ian administrative building, mostexpensive administrative build-ing and heaviest building, is amemorable edifice.

The tour, while not matchingthe outside impact, is well worthtaking.

BYZANTINEBUCHA RESTByzantium’s spirit is kept alive inthe old churches of Bucharest,whose architecture, frescoes,altar pieces and religious ser-mons mirror life in EmperorConstantine’s Empire.

KRETZULESCU CHURCH47 Calea Victoriei MAP p13 B2, p32 C5

Constructed in 1722 in the sameBrancoveanu style, the red-brickchurch was built by boyarKretzulescu, one of PrinceBrancoveanu’s sons-in-law. Theexterior frescoes have been pre-served in their original state,while the interior was the workof a famous 19th-century painter,Gheorghe Tattarascu.

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STAVROPOLEOS MONASTERY4 Stavropoleos, www.stavropoleos.roMAP p13 C4, p32 C6

Built in 1724, Stavropoleos Churchis one of the most outstandingexamples of the Brancoveanustyle – an original baroque synthe-sis of Eastern and Western archi-tecture created under PrinceConstantin Brancoveanu’s reign(1688-1714). The vegetal motifswhich adorn the façade and theloggia blend harmoniously withthe interior and exterior frescoesdepicting biblical scenes and thecarved wood iconostasis, amongwhich one can admire the bi-cephalous eagle, the emblem ofByzantium. The building gets athree-star mention in theMichelin travel guide.

STAVROPOLEOS COLLECTION4 Stavropoleos, www.stavropoleos.ro

Within the monastery precinctsare a library and a refectory dis-playing a small but valuable col-lection of old religious objects,which inclu des icons painted onwood and glass, religious arti-facts, decorative art and frag-ments of fresco recovered fromchurches demolished during thecommunist regime.

The monastery's library holdsover 8,000 books and manu-scripts, including titles on theol-ogy.

ROMANIAN MEDIEVAL ART GALLERYWithin the National Art Museum ofRomania, 49-53 Calea Victoriei,www.mnar.roMAP p13 B2, p32 C5

Holding the largest collection ofits kind in Romania, the muse-um’s more than 9,500 worksinclude icons, fresco fragments,embroideries and textiles, reli-gious manuscripts and rarebooks, silver, jewelry, woodcarv-ings, metalwork and ceramics. Ondisplay is a selection of approxi-mately 900 works, spanning fivecenturies of artistic achievement,from the late 14th centurythrough to the early 19th century.

MUSEUMS

ANTIPA MUSEUM 1 Sos Kiseleff, tel: 021.312.88.63,www.antipa.ro. Tue-Sun 10:00-20:00MAP p32 B3

Created almost 100 years ago atthe intiative of Grigore Antipa, theRomanian biologist known for theinvention of the diorama, theNational Museum of NaturalHistory hosts permanent exhibi-tions of Romanian fauna and ani-mals. Over 2 million exhibits are-gathered in different thematic col-lections: zoology, paleontology,minerals, rocks and ethnography.

CONTEMPORARY ART MUSEUMPeople’s Palace, 2-4 Izvor St, wing E4, entrance from Calea 13Septembrie, www.mnac.ro MAP p13 A5, p32 B6

Located in Ceausescu’s controver-sial mammoth building, the muse-um hosts temporary modern artexhibitions in its vast halls, whichcreate a strange yet welcomingspace. The museum holds one ofthe most interesting communistkitsch art collections, unfortunate-

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The Peasant Museum won the 1996 European Museum of the Year Award


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ly not on display. Although accessis not very easy, it’s worth the tripsince the museum’s roof terraceoffers one of the best aerial viewsof Bucharest

COTROCENI PALACE ANDMUSEUM1 Geniului Blv, tel: 021.317.31.06,www.muzeulcotroceni.ro

Built between 1679 and 1681 byPrince Șerban Cantacuzino in thebaroque style of the time, theCotroceni complex served as theofficial residence of differentrulers. Queen Mary left herunmistakable mark on the place,which bears the proof of herartistic affinities. Cotroceni is theonly official residence inRomania that has been used forover four centuries, with thepalace and medieval cellars stillexisting today.

NATIONAL ART MUSEUM (MNAR)49-53 Calea Victoriei, tel: 021.313.30.30, www.mnar.ro MAP p13 B2, p32 C4

Besides its European Art gallery,the museum located in the RoyalPalace holds the most importantcollection of Romanian modernart, with 8,600 paintings and2,000 sculptures (includingworks by Brancusi).

Approximately 700 worksoffer an overview of the evolu-tion of artistic trends from theearly 19th century – when art inRomania became entirely secular– through to late 19th to early20th century, the age of the greatmasters of national art. For theMedieval Art Collection, seeByzantine Bucharest.

NATIONAL HISTORY MUSEUM12 Calea Victoriei, tel: 021.315.82.07, www.mnir.roMAP p13 B4, p32 C6

From prehistoric times, throughthe gold treasury of Dacian tribesand the Roman Conquest to themodern era, the museum’s 60halls exhibit historical artifacts,documents and art that connectus to the cradle of European civi-lization in the neolithyc age(6,500-3,500 BC), located ontoday’s Romanian territory.

ROMANIAN PEASANT MUSEUM3 Sos Kiseleff, Sector 1, tel: 021.317.96.60, 021.317.96.61,www.muzeultaranuluiroman.roMAP p32 B2

Relaunched on February 5, 1990,the Romanian Peasant Museummarks the continuation of a longtradition, which started whenthe first autonomous museumfor peasant art was established in1906.

Today the venue is more thana static exhibition of somewhatexotic country life, offering aforum for creativity, urbansocializing and the reinventionof lost values.

VILLAGE MUSEUMAdmission is RON 6.28-30 Sos Kiseleff , sector 1

The Village Museum is an open-air ethnographic museum inHerastrau Park, showcasing tra-ditional Romanian village life.Covering over 100,000 sqm, itcontains an estimated 300authentic peasant farms andhouses brought from all over

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Romania and reassembled bit by bit in the park, clustered andarranged to show the real patternof Romanian villages.

SOUVENIR SHOPS

BUCHAREST SOUVENIR SHOP(SUVENIR DE BUCURESTI)15 Academiei St, www.suvenirdebucuresti.roMAP p32 C5

An art gallery, where every piececan be acquired, it sells smallstatuettes, ceramics, glassobjects, jewelry and accessories,oil paintings and books. Even themost demanding souvenir hunterwill find something to buy!

PEASANT MUSEUM SOUVENIR SHOP3 Sos Kiseleff, tel: 021.317.96.61. Tue-Sun 10:00-18:00MAP p32 B2

Although the prices are high, youcan buy quality traditional peas-ant clothes, icons and naïve art,as well as artistically unique tap-estries, wooden and glass icons,handmade metallic objects, tiles,vegetable thread knitwear, folk-lore dolls and souvenirs.

ROMARTIZANACalea Victoriei 16-20,tel:021.313.14.65, www.romartizana.com.ro MAP p32 C6

The gallery shop sells authenticfolk art objects that typify thevaluable and traditional folkloreof the old Romanian regions.

Shoppers can admire and buyfolk costumes, embroideredblouses (the English for theRomanian “ie”), raw silk head-dresses, ceramics, woodenobjects, woolen folk weaves, aswell as useful handmade objectsand home decorations, such asembroideries, blankets, cro-cheted table cloths, lacy pat-terned fabrics, crocheted drapesand curtains.

SOUVENIR SHOPwww.souvenir-shop.com.ro, daily10:00 - 20:00

Located in the Old Town area,this outlet has both Romania andBucharest branded gifts, frompostcards to T-shirts with funnymessages, such as “Send moretourists, last ones tasted great” –signed by Dracula.

THOMAS ANTIQUES19 Covaci St, tel: 0752.44.08.18,www.thomas-antiques.ro, Mon-Sat 12:00-20:00MAP p13 C4, p32 D6

Thomas Antiques is not a typicalsouvenir shop – you can findhere everything from furnitureand paintings to clocks and deco-rations, all in a place where youcan drink a coffee or a beer froman old chair or sofa.

UNIVERSITATE PASSAGESOUVENIR SHOPBetween Nicolae Balcescu Blv andRegina Elisabeta BlvMAP p32 D5

A small souvenir shop can befound in Universitate Passage,near the Tourist Information

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Center. Postcards, mugs, tradi -tional clothing and small stat-uettes are on sale.

GUIDED TOURS

BUCHAREST CITY TOURTour type: Bucharest Sightseeing,Bucharest Panoramic & MogosoaiaPalace, Bucharest Panoramic &Snagov Monastery, BucharestPanoramic & Walking TourCosts: from EUR 29Tel: 021.232.03.31, 0735.525.710,www.bucharestcitytour.com

If you are looking for interestingsites and to hear the story of the“Little Paris”, these tours canhelp. Generally, the fee includespick-up and drop-off at yourlocation in Bucharest, transportby car/minibus, a map of the cityand guide services in English.

CULTURAL TRAVEL AND TOURSTour type: Past and Present inBucharest Architecture, La BelleEpoque a la Bucharest, UnearthingBucharest’s history, Bucharest inCommunist Times, Spiritual Break,Dracula’s Original Haunts, Art &History.Costs: from EUR 29, depending ontour selected and group size.Tel: 021.336.31.63, 0724.718.848,www.cttours.ro

To discover something more spe-cific, the answer is here. Thesetours range from explorations ofthe city’s arts, mediaeval history,commercial past and eclecticFrench architecture to a journeyof discovery into CommunistBucharest and the daily life ofthe city’s inhabitants.

GUIDED BUCHARESTTour type: walking tour, cycle tourCosts: Free tour (walking), EUR 17(cycle)Start time: 18:00 every day.T el: 0745.593.938, 0744.314.110,www.guided-bucharest.com

Over the course of more thantwo hours, one can explore theeclectic architecture and hiddenattractions of the city, whileunraveling the stories of the oldand new Bucharest.

Tours on bike depart at 15:30daily, on request and with limit-ed places.

Booking at least six hours inadvance is necessary. The EUR 17(RON 75) fee includes bike, hel-met, guide and snack.

HISTORIC HOUSES OFBUCHARESTTour type: architectural Bucharestfrom different periods.Costs: from EUR 7 (RON 35).Tel: 0728.323.272, www.historo.wordpress.com

Among other activities, architectValentin Mandache offers expertadvisory services on period andtraditional properties inRomania.

His tours contain analysis andopinions on period buildings,architectural heritage and tradi-tional habitats from Romania’shistorical provinces.

The city tour is comparablewith a back-in-time story of thebuildings of Bucharest withdetails from when they werebuilt, the historical backgroundand sometimes some juicy tid-bits about the inhabitants of thebuildings.


RESTAURANTSBusiness Review gives you a selection of top Bucharestrestaurants, organized by the type of cuisine, includingour recommendations for the best Romanian food restau-rants. For the top restaurants in the Old Town, see theOld Town section. You can check the full-length versionsof all the reviews by our resident restaurant critics onwww.business-review.ro.

FISH

MESOGIOS49 Jean Louis Calderon St,tel: 021.317.13.55MAP p32 D4

The oldest and most reliable fishhouse in town serves a wide vari-ety of fresh fish cooked in astraight, simple, Mediterraneanmanner.

OSHO FISH19 Primaverii St, tel: 021.568.30.31MAP p32 B1

Alaskan crab “legs”, live lobsters,cuttlefish, prawns of every size,shrimps in samphire grass and somuch more are displayed on thechiller! This is the cheapest fishhouse in town, as it imports direct-ly. The daily catch is listed on ablackboard. You can find parrotfish, “monkfish”, sole, turbot, redgurnard and captain fish. TheRomanian version of fish soup isavailable, with a base of borschand lashings of dill.

FRENCH

BISTRO EPOQUE15 C Intrarea Aurora, Epoque Hotel,Cismigiu Garden area tel:021.313.32.32MAP p32 B5

With the two Michelin-starredchef Guy Martin behind themenu, French gastronomic cre-ativity and quality are ensured.The “cumin flavored duck liverpate” is in itself an experience, asis the “milk-fed veal with greenasparagus and goose liver ravio-li”. The wine list is impeccable,showcasing, along with theFrench bottles, a top-qualityselection of Romanian wines.

CANTINE DE NICOLAI15 Povernei St, tel: 0725.210.608MAP p32 C3

Even if the 1960s menu is old-fashioned, whatever chef NicolaiTand produces is perfect! Orderthe “St Jacques (scallops) withpuree potato and shaved fresh

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black truffle”. The scallops aregrilled for a few seconds so theyarrive moist, correctly under-cooked and generous with five ofthe beauties. Or the soft, flakey,moist “saddle of cod”, anotherdish brought to perfection.

FUSION

COLLAGE10-12 Ion Mihalache Blv, tel: 0758.101.040, www.collageworld.roMAP p32 B2

If you have just finished yourvisit to the Peasant Museum,then a stop at this “creative cui-sine” high-end restaurant justacross the street is a must.

THE LOFT64 Iancu de Hunedoara entrance opposite Mega Image onStefan Cel Mare Blv.MAP p32 C3

With a state of the art spaciousdesign, The Loft serves foodwhich would be at home in Paris.All dishes are beautifully pre-sented, although the servicedoesn’t match their standard.Order the excellent ‘clam risotto’cooked in true keeping with thetraditional standards of fineFrench cuisine or the tender ‘seabass fillet’ accompanied by awonderful puree, shaved with agenerous slice of fresh truffle.

MARKET 88 Serban Petrescu, off DorobantiSquare, tel: 0734.808.080,www.market8.roMAP p32 C1

Located in one of the posh areasof Bucharest, Dorobanti, therestaurant’s eclectic interior dec-oration mirrors the imaginativeflavor combinations of Asianspices and French cuisine on themenu. For starters try the‘steamed scallops with a gingerand spring onion emulsion’,beautifully presented with threeQueen scallops on a thick greenbed of sauce. The ‘halibut withmiso and lemon risotto’ is anoth-er perfect choice, with the risottopackaged in a tennis sized ball.

INTERNATIONAL

ARCADE8 Ion Cantacuzino, tel: 0753.999.333,www.restaurantarcade.roMAP p32 B1

Over the last nine years Arcadehas become a gastronomic insti-tution in this town. It is bestknown for its fabulous locationand vast summer terrace, butalso for the warm, homely villaambiance. This is a top quality,sophisticated chophouse thatcan compete with the best alter-native restaurants in town thatcould cost twice the price.

DONCAFE BRASSERIE7 Ankara St. tel: 0746.222.444,www.doncafe-brasserie.ro.MAP p32 C2

Located near Piata Dorobanti,this brasserie is a relaxing spotfor a long sit-down amid its rich,dark wood and sumptuous seat-ing. On weekdays Doncafe’s platdu jour consists of an interna-tional rotation that includes a

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burger, Moroccan couscous and chicken tikka masala. There’salso a selection of Italian andother European mains, includingpork osso bucco with 1,001 aro-mas, several meat and fish dish-es, and some typical homemadepasta choices.

RESTAURANT GINGER194 Calea Grivitei, tel: 021.223.47.15, 0752.167.703

It is on the wrong side of town,but worth the drive to get there.With an excellent array of famil-iar main courses priced aroundEUR 8, you can complementyour meal with a bottle or two ofChateau Petrus 2001, a snip atjust EUR 3,300.

Yes, it has the finest andlargest wine cellar in the entireland. At the other end of thescale, they have superb housewines starting at EUR 5.

ITALIAN

AL SAPORE7 Blvd. Unirii, tel: 0723.572.534,www.alsapore.roMAP p32 C6

Relative newcomer Al Sapore is aMediterranean restaurant forrefined connoisseurs of the culi-nary art and luxury services.Chef Gabriele Orazio, originallyfrom the Italian region ofMarche, has put together a menuof “marchigiane” specialties withfish and seafood cooked fromfamily recipes that go back over60 years. The extensive wine listincludes bottles from Romania,Italy and France.

AQUA7-9 Sos Nordului, tel: 0731.888.999,www.aquachique.ro

Possibly the trendiest place onthe Herastrau Lake embank-ment, providing a gorgeous view,Aqua offers a well-balancedItalian menu, from which we rec-ommend the ‘truffles beef’,‘black onion beef fillet’ and‘black mussel risotto’.

AQUARIUM4 Alecu Russo St, tel: 021.211.28.20,www.restaurantaquarium.roMAP p32 D3

Over the past 12 years, Aquariumhas defended its reputation asone of the best Italian restau-rants in Bucharest, due to itsconstant quality and the excel-lently cooked pasta and fishdishes.

LA CUCINA90 Calea 13 Septembrie,JW Marriott Hotel, tel: 021.403.10.10

With a decor reminiscent of aTuscan farm kitchen and a menudesigned by the new chef Carsilithat includes authentic pastarecipies and a wide range ofpizza, this restaurant offers acomplete and delicious Italianfood experience.

NOVI AQUARIUM111-113 Calea Floreasca, tel: 031.405.05.97, www.noviaquarium.roMAP p32 D2

Novi Aquarium is the new incar-nation of the long-standing fash-

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JW Steakhouse

ionable eatery Aquarium. With asumptuous interior, this new-comer oozes class and must beone of the most sophisticatedlooking restaurants in Bucharest.The ambience is excellent, andthe menu is strong on fish andpasta dishes.

OSTERIA GIOIA16 Ion Mihalache Blv, tel: 021.311.37.50,www.osteriagioia.roMAP p32 A2

One of the best Italian restau-rants in town. From the starterslist try the delicious ‘ovenbacked pancakes with Fontinacheese and porcini mushrooms’.However, the menu’s forte is itspastas. We recommend thesophisticated ‘taglioni with von-

gole clams and arugula’ or thesimple ‘linguine with tomatoesand fresh basil’.

ROBERTO’SAthenee Palace Hilton Hotel, Str. Episcopiei 1-3, 021.303.37.77 MAP p32 C4

After a complete facelift,Roberto’s is back among the toprestaurants in Bucharest. There’s now a semi-openkitchen, and the whole placesmells like the interior of a newBentley, all polished wood andrich leather aromas from the newseats. The menu boasts dishesfrom a number of Italian regionssuch as “swordfish Beccaficu” (aPalermo dish usually served withnut and vegetable stuffed sar (acombo of bread, olives, garlic,

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balsamic, onion, tomato andbasil). Prices are reasonable andRoberto’s can compete on anequal footing with any otherquality restaurant in town.

ROMANIAN

BISTRO ATHENEU3 Episcopiei St, tel: 021.313.49.00MAP p32 C4

With a classic traditional menuthat includes well cooked dishesfrom several regions of Romaniaand around such as theTransylvanian specialty ‘cabbage ala Cluj’ or the southern Greekinfluenced ‘musaca’, this smalland cozy bistro is a culinary land-mark for both locals and visitors.Before dessert, for which we rec-ommend the pumpkin pie, youcan order a Turkish coffee. If youvisit the Enescu Museum on CaleaVictoriei, enjoy a nice Romanianlunch at the bistro’s sister restau-rant, La Taifas, on 16 Gh. Manu St,just around the corner.

BUREBISTA195 Calea Mosilor, tel: 021.210.97.04www.restaurantburebista.roMAP p32 E5

Named after one of the braveDacian tribes’ kings, who defe -nded the land against the Romanconquest, this ethnic-lookingplace has one of the largestmenus of Romanian dishes,including spe cialties such as thedelicious fish eggs (‘icre’), porkskin (sorici) and last, but notleast, wild boar and deer steak.In the evening, there is a live tra-ditional music program.

CASA DOINA 4 Sos. Kiseleff, www.casadoina.roMAP p32 B2

Without any doubt, the bestRomanian food in town, withwell-balanced traditional dishessuch as the excellent trout soupand the fried organic chickenwith garlic sauce. At this time ofyear one traditionally orders asstarters eggplant salad andgrilled pepper salad.

The restaurant is also one ofthe city’s historical landmarks.The generous garden with oldtrees surrounds a two-storeyvilla (classified as an architectur-al monument), was built in 1892in the Romanian neo-classicalstyle.

LOCANTA JARISTEA50-52 Georgescu St.,tel: 0744.240.125, 0721.961.936,www.jaristea.ro

A place that you shouldn’t miss,mostly for its Bucharest of the1930s ‘joie de vivre’ atmospherecreated by the décor and the livemusic program. The impeccableservice is another plus at thisthemed restaurant. The food iswell judged, as is the wine list.

STEAK HOUSES

JW STEAKHOUSE90 Calea 13 Septembrie,JW Marriott Hotel, tel: 021.403.10.10

Pure Americana, with a selectionof the best of the USA, fromwhere all of the produce isimported.

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The steaks are aged for 21days at 4 degrees before you getyour teeth into them. Side dishesare chosen with the same care asthe meat. The House’s steak-house concept has been import-ed intact from the group’s flag-ship hotel, Grosvenor House inLondon, where it is a success.

OSHO 19 Primaverii St, tel: 021.568.30.31,www.osho-restaurant.roMAP p32 B1

They modestly call themselves asteakhouse, but it is much, muchmore than that. If you enter itfrom the front end of the build-ing, you will find yourself in ashop which sells all of the chop-house’s products, ‘over thecounter’ at retail prices. Thisincludes not only their extensiverange of meat products, but anarray of up to 20 Italian cheesesand salamis. Add to that a richlist of French and Italian finewines, and you have a ‘deliwhere you can dine’.

THEMEDRESTAURANTS

COUNT DRACULA CLUB8A Splaiul Independentei St,tel: 021.312.13.53, www.count-dracula.roMAP p32 C6

Cheesy vampiric fun doesn’t getmuch tackier than at CountDracula Club, which hosts twiceweekly visits from the Impalerhimself (well, a very amusingimpersonator). The atmosphereis suitably creepy and attention

has been lavished equally on themenu, which is based on andfeatures quotes from the novel.The cuisine is surprisingly goodfor a theme eatery, although veg-etarians might be struggling.

Call ahead to check whatnight old Vlad is doing his bit.

EXCALIBUR 39-41 Academiei St,tel: 021.314.56.70, 0730.190.364,www.restaurantexcalibur.ro MAP p32 C5

The tavern style eatery promisesvictuals from the middle ages,served by appropriately attiredwenches and without modernconveniences such as knives andforks, so be prepared to get thyhands dirty!

The food, which is basicallymeaty Romanian, is humorouslystyled as Sir Lancelot’s Lunchand Sir Arthur’s Dinner. The biground tables are great for groups.Other outlets can be found at 39-41 Academiei St 3 and 9 BlanariSt (Old Town).

TURKISH

GOLDEN FALCON18-20 Hristo Botev St,tel: 021.314.28.25,www.goldenfalcon.roMAP p32 D5

After more than 12 years of exis-tence, this place still serves thebest Turkish food in town. Thelargest selection of deliciouskebabs and the wide range ofstarters are pluses that haveprobably helped it beat off thecompetition.

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bucharest city guide 2012

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