1. 1. LENOLEUM
2. 2. Introduction Linoleum is a floor covering made from materials such as solidified linseed oil (linoxyn), pine rosin, ground cork dust, wood flour, and mineral fillers such as calcium carbonate, most commonly on a burlap or canvas backing; pigments are often added to the materials. The finest linoleum floors, known as 'inlaid', are extremely durable; they were made by joining and inlaying solid pieces of linoleum. Cheaper patterned linoleum came in different grades or gauges, and were printed with thinner layers which were more prone to wear and tear. High quality linoleum is flexible and thus can be used in buildings where a more rigid material (such as ceramic tile) would crack
3. 3. Advantages one of the biggest advantages is of course durability. If its cleaned properly and maintained, it should last for years. Its quite good for high traffic areas. linoleum has the same color through out its layers. This means that it it gets damaged, its enough to use some sealant for the damaged area and it will still have the same color. Minor cuts wont even be noticeable. linoleum is a little softer than other types of flooring. It is also perfect if you want a quiet floor. because its almost entirely made out or renewable resources, linoleum is environmental friendly. The materials used for making linoleum are: oil, wood flour, jute, cork dust, limestone. its great for kitchen and bathrooms as its water proof. Spill can be easily cleaned.
4. 4. Disadvantages one of the biggest problems with linoleum is that it traps sub-floor moisture. If you have a concrete sub-floor, then its not such a good idea to install linoleum. Moisture can damage not just the concrete but also the linoleum. its not the most expensive floor on the market, but its more expensive than vinyl. Vinyl flooring is getting more and more popular because of the lower cost and because it has many of the features that linoleum has. linoleum tens to expand and contract. To prevent any installation problems, let it acclimate for a few days.
5. 5. TYPES There are several types of linoleum in use, based on what they are made of and their colors and shapes or patterns. Sheet Linoleum The most popular choice for linoleum flooring. Sheet linoleum is available in the widest selection of patterns and colors and comes in 6'6" rolls, making it incredibly complex to install. Unless you possess the necessary skills, sheet linoleum flooring installation should be conducted by a professional Linoleum Tile Flooring Similar in shape and handling like any tile flooring material, but provides a different set of benefits than using ceramic or stone files. Its organic make-up allows for eco- friendly use in hospitals, nursing homes and other medical facilities or homes needing an anti-allergen environment. It has natural water resistance that makes it a lower maintenance alternative to ceramic or natural stone tiles. Linoleum has a different feel to it than ceramic or natural stone, and hence it's considered a better material to stand upon for long periods of
6. 6. Forbo Linoleum This is actually a linoleum brand, which produces different kinds of linoleum with names such as Artoleum Graphic, Scala, Piazza, Passione and others. The Artoleum Graphic product is the most popular, mainly due to its dirt-camouflaging technology. These linoleums are durable and more resistant to heat than general types. Solid Colored Linoleum Extremely popular, providing a variety of colors and shades. The colors are durable, resisting fading even over a long period of time. Marble Linoleum Provides a great and elegant look. Marbled patterned linoleum tiles provide that fancy, sophisticated look at an inexpensive price. Flecked Linoleum Provides a unique pattern that adds distinction to any room where installed. Patterned Linoleum Available in almost an exhaustive variety of patterns, providing
7. 7. Characteristics of linoleum: a resilient sheet flooring material - ecologically friendly, made of natural materials - composed of oxidized linseed oil, powdered cork and wood flour, pressed into sheets with a burlap (jute) backing - water resistant - heat- and sound- insulating - very durable and flexible
8. 8. - typically imitated other flooring materials, including tile, slate, wood planks, parquet, and even carpets - distinguished by type (plain or inlaid) and gauge (battleship or A-E gauge) - battleship gauges were the thickest type, ranging from light battleship (.142" thick) to very heavy battleship (.25" thick); burlap backing was unpainted; typical colors included brown, dark gray and green - A-E gauges of linoleum were thinner than the battleship gauges; burlap backing was painted; typical colors included brown, dark gray, light gray, blue, tan and green
9. 9. USES - residential flooring: for kitchens, hallways and bathrooms - institutional flooring: in schools, showrooms - originally installed over a wood subflooring. Later, a layer of felt was sandwiched in between - heavier battleship linoleum was common in offices, stores, hospitals, banks, lodge rooms, elevators and battleship decks
10. 10. - thinner battleship linoleum was common in light traffic areas and where cost was a factor - 'A' gauge plain linoleum was common in apartments or offices with moderate traffic levels - 'B, C, and D' gauges were common in residential applications - 'E' gauge linoleum was common in the automobile industry - the use of linoleum was surpassed by vinyl tile after WWII
11. 11. NATURAL OR INHERENT PROBLEMS with age, the linseed oil component of linoleum oxidizes, resulting in brittle linoleum; for linoleum with a high proportion of filler material to linseed oil, this problem is aggravated - linseed oil darkens over time, causing a change in the overall color and appearance of the floor; exposure to ultra-violet
12. 12. VANDALISM OR HUMAN-INDUCED PROBLEMS Mechanical or physical deterioration: - abrasion in heavy traffic areas - indentation from heavy furniture or high heels - water damage to backing can cause the backing material to separate from the linoleum - exposure to alkalis found in cleaning agents (such as ammonia) can cause pitted and abraded linoleum; the alkali softens the
13. 13. installtion Acclimate your linoleum to the room. Linoleum and its synthetic alternatives are soft, pliable, and flexible when compared to most other flooring materials. In fact, they're so flexible that they will actually shrink and expand ever-so-slightly with changes in temperature.[1] Though these changes are imperceptible to the naked eye, they can cause minor issues when it comes to installing and maintaining your floor. Because of this, you'll want to give your linoleum a chance to reach its "resting" size by storing it in the room you intend to use it in for about 24 hours prior to installing it.
14. 14. Detach any base boards. Next, remove any baseboards the small wooden "trim" pieces at the bottom of a wall that run along the edges of your floor. Usually, this can be accomplished by carefully prying with a pry bar, flat head screwdriver, or sturdy putty knife. To prevent damage to your wall, try inserting a small block of wood behind your prying tool as you work the baseboard away from the wall. This keeps your tool from scratching against the wall and provides additional leverage.[2]While you're working on your baseboards, take the opportunity to also remove any outlet covers that could be damaged by your linoleum flooring installation project.
15. 15. Remove baseboard nails. After you remove your baseboards, quickly examine your bottoms of your walls near the floor to look for any leftover nails sticking out of the wall. Carefully pull these nails out of the wall with a pair of pliers, the "claw" end of a hammer, or a similar prying tool. If left in, these nails can present problems when attempting to lay your linoleum flat against the wall.
16. 16. Patch up pre-existing flooring material. Linoleum must be laid over floor that's as close to perfectly smooth and even as possible. If it isn't, the underlying imperfections will eventually be reflected in the linoleum itself, resulting in unsightly bumps, ridges, soft spots, and so on. If you plan to lay your linoleum over the existing floor, check it to make sure that it is level and free of imperfections. If you plan to lay it over the subfloor, remove your existing flooring and check whether the subfloor is in good condition. If your floor or subfloor isn't completely even and level, you may want to try fixing minor issues with the tips below:[3]Concrete floors: Level high spots with a grinder or masonry chisel. Fill in small holes or cracks with additional concrete. Wood floors: Use an embossing leveler to fix minor dents and indentations. For more serious issues, use plywood underlayment (see below). Existing linoleum floors: Repair worn
17. 17. Alternatively, use a plywood underlay. Some floors and subfloors just aren't suitable for supporting linoleum flooring either they're too worn or damaged to easily repair or you'd like to keep the floor material for use in other projects. In these cases, it's usually best to use a plywood underlayment to support the linoleum. Cut 1/4 inch (0.63 centimeter) underlayment-grade plywood to fit the floor area you plan to cover with linoleum, then lay this over the existing floor or subfloor. This provides a smooth, even surface for the linoleum to rest on, bypassing the problems of using a damaged or worn floor entirely.For tight seams for your plywood pieces, use a pneumatic stapler about every 8 inches (20.3 cm) along edges. Don't forget that using an underlayment will raise the level of the floor slightly, which may require you to shave off a small
18. 18. Determine the amount of linoleum you'll need. Now that your floor is ready for linoleum to be installed, it's time to measure it so that you'll know precisely how much linoleum to use and exactly how to cut it. You have several options for measuring your floor just a few are listed below. Regardless of which method you use, it's important to make your measurements as accurate as possible so that your linoleum will fit precisely against your walls and appliances.One option for measuring your floor is to lay down a large sheet (or sheets) of a heavy paper like butcher paper across the area of floor you intend to cover with linoleum. Use a pencil to precisely trace the edges of the floor area. Cut the shape of your floor area from your paper, then use this as an outline when you cut out your linoleum. Another option is to use a tape measure to obtain measurements for all of the sides of your flooring area. Sketch these results in a piece of paper and use your measurements
19. 19. Lay your vinyl down and trim to fit. Carefully move the cut linoleum piece(s) into position and lay it down. Work the linoleum around any corners and obstructions, taking care not to crease it. If you marked and cut your linoleum so that you have an extra inch or two on every side, the extra material will lay up against the walls. Use your linoleum-cutting tool to carefully trim the edges of your linoleum so that it lays flat on the floor and is flush against the edges of the flooring area. Below are a few tips for trimming your linoleum to fit snugly:Straight walls: Use a straightedge or straight piece of wood (like a 2x4) to crease the linoleum against the corner where the wall meets the floor. Cut along the crease. Inside corners: Use V-shaped cuts to shave excess material off of the linoleum where it meets the inside corner. Cautiously remove thin strips of material until the linoleum just lays flat against the
20. 20. Apply adhesive. Now, peel back half of your floor. Use a notched trowel to spread adhesive on the underside of the linoleum. Follow the linoleum's recommended directions for use some linoleum is meant to have adhesive applied evenly across the entire underside, while other types of linoleum are meant to have adhesive applied only along the edges. Allow the adhesive to sit briefly (most adhesives used for this purpose recommend doing so to achieve the best hold), then roll it back down and carefully press it in to its place on the floor. Repeat for the other half of the floor.Linoleum/flooring adhesive is almost always available at major hardware stores (often under the all-purpose name "flooring adhesive"). Always defer to the usage instructions included with the products you buy, including your adhesive. if they vary from those presented in this article, err on the safe side by following them. For linoleum requiring adhesive all over its underside (rather than around the perimeter), leave a few inches along the
21. 21. Stay off of the floor for about 24 hours. As your sealant and adhesive dry, it's important to stay off of your new floor. Even after your sealant is completely dry, keep traffic to a minimum until the underlying adhesive sets completely. Replacing your furniture too early or walking excessively on the floor can cause the still-pliable flooring to deform as it dries, leading to permanent bumps and divots.Many flooring adhesives will be sufficiently dry in 24 hours, but some may require longer drying times. Always defer to your manufacturer's directions and err on the side of caution. Prolonging a minor inconvenience in the short term can save you problems in the long term.
22. 22. COST The average cost of linoleum is2$ or2.50$ per squrefoot
23. 23. mounica 14091AA005 Akanksha 14091AA038 THANK YOU