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QUIKRETE® Fiber-Reinforced Concrete, because of its highstrength and smooth surface finish, is the best choice for the castprojects that follow. In addition QUIKRETE® Sand Mix andQUIKWALL™ Surface Bonding Cement are flexible enough to beused in a variety of cast projects. For even greater sculpturabilitywith thin projects, QUIKRETE® Quick-Setting Cement is ideal. Itsfast setting time allows it to be removed from the form and eithercarved with a utility knife or worked in some other fashion.

While 2 x 4s are most commonly used to build forms for concreteslabs and walls, cast projects use a wide range of form materials.In addition to QUIKTUBE™ building forms, tin cans, buckets,cardboard boxes, mailing tubes, and automobile tires can be usedto create useful indoor and outdoor accessories. You can alsocreate interesting effects depending on the specific form materialyou use. For example, unplaned or unsawed lumber leaves a woodgrain effect on the concrete, while lining the form with heavy kraftpaper or plastic produces a smooth finish.

Use double-headed nails when building temporary woodforms. Drive the nails to the first head only, leaving thesecond head exposed for easy removal.When working with any type of wood form, apply a thincoating of engine oil to the form before pouring theconcrete. This will allow the concrete to set more easily,while reducing the chance of damaging the concrete when itis removed from the form.Always give a cast projectplenty of time to curebefore attempting toremove it.When removing a castproject from a form, do sovery carefully. Place it inthe shade on a platformthat allows for air spaceunderneath the project.Cover with burlap or athick layer of newspaperand keep this coveringwet for at least one week.As an added touch, cast projects can be painted, stained,or coated with plastic, aluminum, or steel for a metalliceffect.

Here's a project that's great for the scout in your family or anyoneelse - sturdy concrete bookends.

QUIKRETE® Fiber-Reinforced Concrete, QUIKRETE® SandMix,QUIKWALL® Surface Bonding Cement, or QUIKRETE®Quick-

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Setting CementQUIKRETE® Deco Pebbles (optional)Coffee tinFeltWood dividerTrowel

Place a tight-fitting wood divider into a 2- or 3-lb. coffee tin asshown.

Pour the QUIKRETE® Fiber-Reinforced Concrete, QUIKRETE®Sand Mix, QUIKWALL® Surface Bonding Cement, or QUIKRETE®Quick-Setting Cement into the tin, filling it completely.

Use a trowel to smooth and level the surface of the concrete.

When the concrete has cured completely, cut away the tin.

If QUIKRETE® Deco Pebbles or other aggregates were used inthe concrete, scrub and buff the surface of the bookends to bringout the decorative effect.

Finally, glue a piece of heavy felt to the bottom of eachbookend to avoid scratching shelves and furniture.

An anchor was never this easy to make: just follow thesestep-by-step directions.

QUIKRETE® Fiber-Reinforced Concrete, QUIKRETE® SandMix, or QUIKWALL® Surface Bonding CementQUIK-TUBE™ form Anchor boltRebarTrowel

A QUIK-TUBE™ building form isperfect for this project. An oldbucket, a large can, or a similarcontainer can also be used.

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Pour QUIKRETE® Fiber-Reinforced Concrete, QUIKRETE® SandMix, or QUIKWALL® Surface Bonding Cement into the form, fillingit completely. After about 20 to 30 minutes, place an anchor boltand rebar in the concrete as shown. Trowel the surface smooth.

Do not attempt to use the anchor until the concrete has curedcompletely. If a QUIK-TUBE™ form was used, cut and peel itaway. If a different container was used, it will remain as part of theanchor.

If additional weight is needed, make several anchors and jointhem with chain.

Decorative plaques with raised or recessed surfaces are asfunctional as they are attractive. They are great for flower bededging or garden accents. When used as edging, partially bury theplaques to secure them; no separate footer or anchoring isrequired.

QUIKRETE® Fiber-Reinforced Concrete, QUIKRETE® SandMix, or QUIKWALL® Surface Bonding Cement, orQUIKRETE® Quick-Setting ConcreteQUIKRETE® Play Sand®Plywood1 x 2 wood stripsSaw (keyhole, saber, or jigsaw)Trowel

The mold shown is a direct relief mold made of damp or oiledQUIKRETE® Play Sand on a sheet of plywood. It forms a negativeimage of the final textured surface of the plaque. The sides of themold are made of 1 x 2 pieces of wood, and the sand is placedinside and shaped using a variety of sculpting tools.

Strips of wood or rigid foam can also be placed in the mold tocreate recessed shapes or lettering. For raised or embossedshapes, openings must be cut in the base of the mod with a saw.To create a level surface for the embossed areas, place the moldon a plywood sheet or a screeded and compacted bed of sand.

Place the QUIKRETE® Fiber-Reinforced Concrete, QUIKRETE®Sand Mix, or QUIKWALL® Surface Bonding Cement, orQUIKRETE® Quick-Setting Concrete in the mold. Be careful not todisturb the sand or move the rigid foam or wood strips. Smooth thesurface of the concrete so that it is level with the upper edges ofthe sides. Let the concrete set at least 1 full day, then carefullyremove the mold. Let the plaque cure for 5 to 7 days.

Cast concrete planks make an economical and movable boatlaunching ramp.

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QUIKRETE® Fiber-Reinforced Concrete, QUIKRETE® SandMix,or QUIKWALL® Surface Bonding Cement2 x 6 wood,RebarEye boltsSteel cableTrowelBroom

After constructing the forms, cutnotches as shown for the eyebolts. Pour the QUIKRETE®Fiber-Reinforced Concrete,QUIKRETE® Sand Mix, orQUIKWALL® Surface BondingCement, wait about 20 to 30minutes, then place the rebar andeye bolts in position. Smooth theconcrete with a trowel and applya broomed finish to provide goodtraction for backing vehicles intothe water. Use steel cable to link the finished planks together; thistechnique will enable them to fit the existing contours of the lakeshore or river bank.

This cast concrete cap will protect your chimney by preventingwater from running down next to the flue liner or puddling andfreezing on top of the chimney.

QUIKRETE® Fiber-Reinforced Concrete, QUIKRETE® SandMix, or QUIKWALL® Surface Bonding Cement2 x 8 woodCleatsHalf-round moldingNailsMetal strapsNuts and boltsRebarTapeBucketsTrowelWooden floatEdging toolPlastic sheeting

When building the formwork, the inside opening should be sizedto the outside dimensions of the chimney walls. Construct theformwork on the ground; it can be hoisted up to the roof when it iscompleted.

Secure cleats across the buttedcorner joints of the form toincrease the strength at thesepoints. Lengths of half-roundmolding, mitered at the corners,

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and tacked in place inside theform, will provide a drip edge alongthe base of the cap.

Hold the form in position on the chimney by bolting metal strapsto the base board pieces and overlapping the straps onto the topof the chimney. Install the bolts form the underside, with thesecuring nut located inside the form.

To prevent wet concrete from clogging the nut and bolt threads,size the bolt length carefully so that they do not protrude from thenuts. Also, seal the tops of all nuts with tape before placing theconcrete.

When choosing the strap material, determine if the straps will bea permanent part of the cap or whether they will be pried out afterthe formwork is removed. If you plan to leave them in placepermanently, be sure to use a metal that will not eventually rustand stain the chimney.

When the form is securely in place on the chimney, install rebarover the straps as shown.

Mix the QUIKRETE® Fiber-Reinforced Concrete, QUIKRETE®Sand Mix, or QUIKWALL® Surface Bonding Cement. Do the mixingon the ground and pass the concrete up to the roof 1 bucket at atime.

Layer the concrete evenly on all sides of the flue to helpstabilize the form. Loading one side of the form while the oppositeside is empty will cause it to tip forward.

When the form is completely full, let the concrete stiffen slightlybefore beginning to build up the drainage slope away from the flueline. Use a wooden float to build up the slope, working from theoutside edge of the form to the flue wall. Also, form a small radiuscurve along the edges of the form using an edging tool.

Wet down the surfaces of the cap and cover it with plasticsheeting to prevent water loss.

The formwork can be carefully removed with 1 or 2 days.Curing will take approximately 5 to 7 days.

A concrete downspout splash guard is durable, long-lasting, andeasy to build with these step-by-step directions.

QUIKRETE® Fiber-Reinforced Concrete, QUIKRETE® SandMix,QUIKWALL® Surface Bonding Cement, or QUIKRETE®Quick-Setting CementCrushed stone or gravel1 x 4 forming lumberStakesNailsShovelTrowel

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Dig a trench the required length; it should be approximately 12"wide and 6" deep.

Use 1 x 4 lumber to build the forms. Stake and nail boards firmlyin place, then apply a thin coating of engine oil to the form.

Pour QUIKRETE®Fiber-Reinforced Concrete,QUIKRETE® Sand Mix,QUIKWALL® Surface BondingCement, or QUIKRETE®Quick-Setting Cement into the form.Use a trowel to shape the gutter asshown; it should be at least 4" deepat its deepest point. Allow at least1 week curing time before using.

Be certain to always slope the gutter away from the downspoutin order to maintain proper drainage.

To accentuate your home's exterior, try this project - gardenedging/curbing.

QUIKRETE® Fiber-Reinforced Concrete, QUIKRETE® SandMix,or QUIKWALL® Surface Bonding Cement1 x 2 lumberTrowel

Construct a V-shaped form from 1 x 2s; a good workable lengthis 4', although this can vary.

As shown in the cross section,the form should be approximately10" high and at least 4" wide at itswidest point, which will eventuallybe the base of the edging. Makingthe base any narrower will causethe edging/curbing to be toounstable.

Apply a thin coating of engine oil to the form. Pour QUIKRETE®Fiber-Reinforced Concrete, QUIKRETE® Sand Mix, or QUIKWALL®Surface Bonding Cement into the form, filling it completely. Trowelthe surface smooth, then allow at least 48 hours curing time beforeremoving it from the form.

If you want to stake theedging/curbing into the ground,simply cast the project with holes inthe center as shown.