DRAFT STANDARD

CES 38

Compulsory Ethiopian Standard

Thrid Edition

ICS: 59.060.10

Published by Ethiopian Standards Agency © ESA

Refrece number ***

mmmmmmm

Cotton Fibers – Classification and grading of Lint Cotton

2021

DRAFT STANDARDForeword

This Ethiopian Standard has been prepared under the direction of the Technical Committee for Textile Fibers (TC 67) and published by the Ethiopian Standards Agency (ESA).

This Compulsory Ethiopian Standard cancels and replaces CES 38:2014. Application of this standard is COMPULSORY with respect to clause 4,5 and 6. A Compulsory Ethiopian Standard shall have the same meaning, interpretation and application of a "Technical Regulation" as implied in the WTO-TBT Agreement. Implementation of this standard shall be effective as of 12 January 2021.

CES 38

ii © ESA

DRAFT STANDARD ETHIOPIAN STANDARD CES 38

Cotton Fibers – Classification and grading of Lint Cotton

1. Scope This Ethiopian Standard specifies the general classification and grading for lint cotton fiber by

using main quality parameters.

2. Normative References

ES ISO 6938, Generic names and definitions

ES ISO 1130, Textile Fibers some methods sampling for Testing

ES 149, cotton Fibers: Determination of non-lint content

ES 150, cotton Fibers: Determination of moisture

ESISO 2403, cotton Fibers: Determination of micronaire value

ES ISO: 4913, Textile Fibers: Determination of length and uniformity index

ES ISO: 5079, Textile Fibers: Determination of breaking fiber and elongation at

break of individual fibers

3. Definitions For the purpose of this Standard ES ISO 6938, ES 124 and the following definitions shall apply.

1

©ESA

The following referenced documents are indispensable for the application of this Ethiopian standard.

Only the latest edition of the documents (including any amendments) shall be applicable.

DRAFT STANDARD

3.1 Natural fibers: - Textile materials which occur naturally and are utilized for

the production of yarns and hence cloth (for example vegetable fibers such as

cotton flax, animals fibers such as wool, silk, minerals fibers such as

asbestos…)

3.2 Cotton: - unicellular seed hairs of genus Gosspium. It shall also mean a while,

brownish-white, or bluish-white, soft fibrous substances that surrounds that the

seeds of certain plants of the mallow family called Gossypium.

3.3 Gossypium :- A ge nus of her bs or sh rubs of them al low family, yi elding

commercial cotton

3.4 Upland Cotton :- cotton with medium staple length

3.5 Fiber: - The fundamental uni t of textile material, a unit of matter with a l ength

many times that of its diameter of width it is characterized by flexibility, fineness

and high ratio of length to thickness. 3.6 Staple length :- the most frequent l ength of t he fibers when measured i n a

straighten condition

3.7 Short staple cotton :- cotton fiber length is less than 24mm(1inch)

3.8 Medium staple cotton :- cotton whose fiber length is from 24 to 28 mm

3.9 Long staple cotton :- cotton whose fiber length is 28 to 34 mm

3.10 Extra-long staple cotton :- cotton whose fiber length is above 34mm

3.11 Micronaire Reading :- A relative measurement of fiber fineness derived f rom

the porous plug air flow method

3.12 Lint cotton: - the amount of raw cotton obtained after processed seed cotton in

a ginning machine. The ratio of mass of lint to the mass of seed cotton shall be

expressed in percent 3.13 Middling cotton :- A wh ite co tton relatively f ree of gi n cu ts and neps and

having an average a mount of l arge l eaf pieces .This term sh all b e u sed in

conjunction with other qualities such as good middling ,strict middling ,middling,

strict low middling ,low middling ,strict good ordinary, good ordinary.

3.14 Classification: - The term “cotton classification” in this publication refers to the

application of standardized procedures.

2

ES 3786:2013

©ESA

CES 38

DRAFT STANDARD 4. Lint cotton Classification and Requrements 4.1 Length The staple length of cotton fiber, when tested according to ES ISO 4913 shall conform to either of the following type of cotton. Table 1 cotton fiber length

Length (in mm) code Length (in mm) Code

<20.65 24 30.2 38

21 26 31 39 22.2 28 31.75 40 23 29 32.5 41

23.8 30 33.34 42 24.6 31 34.13 43 25.4 32 35 44 26.2 33 35.7 45 27 34 36.5 46

27.8 35 37.3 47 28.6 36 38.1 48 29.4 37

Table 2: Staple classification of cotton and their staple lengths

S/N Staple classification Staple Length, mm

1 Short staple cotton Less than 24

2 Medium staple cotton from 24 to 28

3 Long staple cotton from 28 to 34

4 Extra-long staple cotton above 34

4.2. Length uniformity 4.2.1 UI = Uniformity Index UI= ML/UHML

ML = Mean Length UHM SL - Average value of length of Longest of 50% of Fibers

Interpretation of Uniformity Index

3

CES 38

©ESA

DRAFT STANDARD

4

Table 3 Uniformity index

u. Index Classfication Below 77 Very low 77-99 Low 80-82 Average 83-85 High Above 85 Very High

4.2.2 Uniformity ratio (UR) is given below

Length Uniformity is calculated by 50SL x 100 / 2.5 SL SL= Span Length

Table 4 uniformity ratio

UR% Classification Classification

50-55 45-50

40-45

35-40

Below30

very good good

satisfactory

poor Unusable

4.3 Fiber Strength

4.3.1 The lint cotton fiber classification based on strength are in table 5 below

Table 5 Cotton fiber strength

grams/Tex Classification Below 23 Weak 23-25 Medium 26-28 Average 29-30 Strong Above 31 Very Strong

4.3.3 Breaking Elongation

The breaking elongation of cotton fibers, when tested according to ES 156:2001, shall be between 5 to 10 percent.

CES 38

©ESA

4.3.2 The breaking tenacity of dry cotton fibers, when tested according to ES 156 shall be between 20 to 47 gram forces per tex.

DRAFT STANDARD

5

4.4 Fineness

The fineness of cotton fibers when tested according to ES 154 shall conform to the values specified in Table 6

Table 6 – Micronaire grade

s/n Micronaire (µg/inch)

Classification

1 5.5 and above Very Coarse

2 4.8 – 5.4 Coarse

3 3.7 – 4.7 Medium

4 3.0 – 3.6

Fine

5 3.0 & below very fine 5. Cotton Grade 5.1 General

This section describes the measurements of Rd (color reflectance) and +b (color yellowness) for lint cotton.The Rd and +b measurements are based upon modern instruments (like HIV-1000) 5.2 Grading

The cotton fibers shall be graded by the amount of trash (non-lint content) in the ginned cotton. The universal standards for grades of upland cotton, when tested according to ES 149:2001 shall be as specified in table 8. Table 8 Cotton Color grades S.no Color Grade Symbol Code 1

White Good middling GM 11 Strict middling SM 21 Middling M 31 Strict low middling SLM 41 Low middling LM 51 Strict good ordinary SGO 61 Good ordinary GO 71 Below Good ordinary BGO 81

CES 38

©ESA

DRAFT STANDARD

2

Light spotted Good Middling Light Spotted GM Lt Sp 12 Strict Middling Light Spotted SM Lt Sp 22 Middling Light Spotted Mid Lt Sp 32 Strict Low Middling Light Spotted SLM Lt Sp 42 Low Middling Light Spotted LM Lt Sp 52 Strict Good Ordinary Light Spotted SGO Lt Sp 62

Below Strict Good Ordinary Light Spotted BSGO LtSp 82 3 Spotted Good middling spotted GMS 13

Strict Middling Spotted SMS 23 Middling Spotted MS 33 Strict Low Middling Spotted SLMS 43 Low Middling Spotted LMS 53 Strict Good Ordinary Spotted SGOS 63 Below Strict Good Ordinary Spotted BG 83

4 Tinged strict middling Tinged SMT 24 Middling Tinged MT 34 Strict Low Middling Tinged SLMT 44 Low Middling Tinged LMT 54 Below Low Middling Tinged BG 84

5 Yellow Strict Middling Yellow Stained SMYS 25 Middling Yellow Stained MYS 35 Below Middling Yellow Stained BG 85

6.1 Moisture Regain

The allowable moisture regain of cotton fibers, when tested according to ES 150:2001 shall range from 5 to 8 percent.

6.2 Non-lint content (trash content)

The amount of vegetable matter, sand and dust in the cotton is referred to as “trash” and can vary from region to region. Some typical trash contents are as follows: The maximum allowable non-lint content (trash content) of the different grades of cotton fibers, when determined according to ES 149, shall be between 1 and 11 per cent.

6. Quality

CES 38

6 ©ESA

DRAFT STANDARD

7

Table 9 Trash grade

Leaf Grade symbol Trash % area by HVI

Trash count by HVI (HIVcount=104.5xHIVarea)

Trash % by Shirley Analyzer(SA)

Leaf Grade1 LG1 0.13 14 0.89 Leaf Grade2 LG2 0.20 21 1.36 Leaf Grade3 LG3 0.34 36 2.32

Leaf Grade4 LG4 0.51 53 3.48 Leaf Grade5 LG5 0.72 75 4.91 Leaf Grade6 LG6 1.00 105 6.82 Leaf Grade7 LG7 1.25 131 8.53 Below Leaf Grade BLG 1.57 164 10.71

6.3 Honey dew The honeydew Content of cotton fibers shall conform the value specified in table10 Table 10 Cotton honey dew Content grade

Honey dew content %

Classification

0-2 Very low stickness 3 – 16 low stickiness 17- 32 medium sticky 33 – 53 Big stickness

Greater than 53 Very Big stickness

CES 38

©ESA

6.4 Determination of Waxs, Oils, Fats

The wax, oil, fat content of typical mature cotton fibre, when determined according to ES 151:2001, shall be between 0.4 to 0.8 per cent.

DRAFT STANDARD7. Test method Test method for Honey dew of cotton done by SCT 7.1 Testing procedures •To start up move the main switch on the electronics box to “ON”. •Pull forward the slide carrying the heating plate, as far as it will go. So as to slightly preheat the lower platen.•Soon as the green ‘OUTPUT’ indicator lamp switches off the required temperature has been reached. Before starting any test, in general wait 45 min. then the heating plate is working stable.•To start the test,push back the heating plate and draw a length of aluminum foil,matt side upwards,from the dispenser.•The samples should be prepared at a relative humidity of 65%. • For the sample preparation before each trial clean the opener pins with the brush rotating the drum by hand. Every test removes the impurities of the trash box to prevent them frombeing picked up.• Take a sample from the mass of cotton of a weight 2.5 +/- 0.05g. •Pull the sample apart by hand and place it on the feed table spreading it out over a length of around 11cm in wide. Start the fiber opener to obtain a uniform web. •.Detach the cotton web with the needle. Take hold of the end of the layer of cotton web turn the drum using the handle and press down the web towards the feed table to help Separate it from the pins. 8. Sampling Cotton fibers shall be sampled according to ES 148:2001

9. Condtioning

Except for special cases, such as wet test, physical and mechanical tests of cotton fibers and other textiles shall be conditioned and tested in a standard atmosphere as specified in ES 146:2001

8 ©ESA

CES 38

DRAFT STANDARD

The Head Office of ESA is at Addis Ababa.

011- 646 06 85, 011- 646 05 65 011-646 08 80 2310 Addis Ababa, Ethiopia E-mail: info@ethiostandards.org, Website: www.ethiostandards.org

Organization and Objectives

The Ethiopian Standards Agency (ESA) is the national standards body of Ethiopia established in 2010 based on regulation No. 193/2010.ESA is established due to the restructuring of Quality and Standards Authority o f Ethiopia ( QSAE) which was established in 1998.

ESA’s objectives are:-

Develop Ethiopian standards and establish a system that enable to check whether goods and services are in compliance with the required standards,

Facilitat the country’s technology transfer through the use of standards,

Develop national standards for local products and services so as to make them competitive in the international market.

Ethiopian Standards

The Ethiopian Standards are developed by national technical committees which are composed of different stakeholders consisting of educational institutions, research institutes, government organizations, certification, inspection, and testing organizations, regulatory bodies, consumer association etc. The requirements and/ or recommendations contained in Ethiopian Standards are consensus based that reflects the interest of the TC representatives and also of comments received from the public and other sources. Ethiopian Standards are approved by the National Standardization Council and are kept under continuous review after publication and updated regularly to take account of latest scientific and technological changes. Orders for all Ethiopian Standards, International Standard and ASTM standards, including electronic versions, should be addressed to the Documentation and Publication Team at the Head office and Branch (Liaisons) offices. A catalogue of Ethiopian Standards is also available freely and can be accessed in from our website.

ESA has the copyright of all its publications. No part of these publications may be reproduced in any form without the prior permission in writing of ESA. International Involvement ESA, representing Ethiopia, is a member of the International Organization for Standardization ( ISO), and Codex Alimentarius Commission ( CODEX). It also maintains close working relations with the international Electro-technical Commission (IEC) and American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM).It is a founding member of the African Regional Organization for standardization (ARSO).

More Information?

Contact us at the following address.

Standard Mark

የኢትዮጵያ

የደረጃ

ዎች ኤ

ጀንሲ

E

thio

pian

Sta

ndar

ds A

genc

y