19

Chapter 4Building the Log House

In the Woods

Trees are a renewable resource iflogged on a sustainable time

schedule of a hundred or moreyears between harvests. The way toensure a perpetual source of houselogs is selective logging.

House logs are best cut inwinter, when the sap is down andthe logs can be skidded over thesnow with minimum damage to thelogs and the environment. Barkbeetles are dormant in winter, and along winter drying season may drythe logs enough to keep the beetlepopulation down in the spring.Bark beetles will not invade drylogs.

Choose trees that are of thelength and diameter that will suityour needs. Think in terms ofcutting a matched set of logs withthe same mid-point diameter.

Leave the remaining trees un-damaged by traveling lightly on theland as you skid the logs out of theforest. The trees left behind willbenefit from having more light andspace to grow in.

A modern equivalent to horse-logging is a four wheeler fitted withan arched log-carrying frameequipped with a 2,000-poundcapacity electric winch powered bythe 12-volt battery system of the off-road vehicle (see drawing below).

Saw safety: use hearingprotection and eyeprotection when usinga chain saw. Never cutwith the top part of thetip of the blade. If youdo, the saw could kickback into your face.

An arched log-carrying frame that is pulled bya four-wheeler style all-terrain vehicle.

20

Whether you are clearing yourown land or logging a timber sale,keep waste to a minimum. Maxi-mize the use of local wood productswhenever possible. Birch makesgood cabinet building material andflooring or window and door trim.Aspen and poplar or spruce makegood paneling, wainscoting, andtrim. Douglas fir, hemlock, andwhite spruce can be made intoframing lumber or timbers for postand beam construction.

White spruce trees are likely tobe the logs of choice for building ininterior or southcentral Alaska.Large, straight aspen or whitepoplar can also be used. In southernAlaska, yellow cedar and westernred cedar, Sitka spruce, Douglas fir,and western hemlock all are excel-lent log building materials if theyare straight and of the size requiredfor your building. Alaska yellowcedar is very strong and verydurable and suitable for cabinetryand furniture, power poles andpilings, decking, bridges, andhousing.

Don’t peel too far ahead of theactual placement of the logs on thewall, since the bark protects thewood from mechanical damage,mold, and mildew.

WeatheringLogs may have to be treated with adilute solution of mildewcide afterpeeling to keep them from turninggreen or black with mold. Somebuilders prefer to use a solution ofborate crystals dissolved in waterand sprayed on the logs to retardmold growth. Borate is less toxic tothe environment and to the logworkers than some other chemicalsused to protect logs from mold.

Sawmill Island(As told by Robert Charlie, director of the Cultural Heritageand Education Institute.)

Sawmill Island is located directly across from Old Minto, whichis about 30 miles downriver from Nenana. Old Minto wasoriginally settled in 1912 by a group of Athabascans from theMinto Flats area. Today, Old Minto is the site of a culturalheritage camp. One of the reasons that Chief Charlie originallysettled in Old Minto in 1912 was the abundance of timberfound at Old Minto and across the river on Sawmill Island.Sawmill Island is about 1.7 miles long. The timber served manypurposes, but it was primarily used for fuel by the communitymembers and later for contracts with the United Statesgovernment.

In the early 1920s, Robert Charlie’s uncle, Arthur Wright, whowas one of the first Native ministers for the Episcopal Churchin Alaska, used timbers from Sawmill Island to build OldMinto’s first school. The two-story structure was about 60 by80 feet. Arthur Wright had a small portable sawmill located onthe island. Also built of timbers from Sawmill Island was theEpiscopal Church that stills stands today. The Cultural Heritageand Education Institute is working to preserve it as a historicalsite.

Years ago, there were four or five winter trails to the islandthat led to dry timber areas. Everyone in the village used theisland to get wood. Also, you could walk into the woods inthe summer, and pick gallons of cranberries.

During World War II, the federal government was busy buildingGalena Air Force Base. About that time, Robert Charlie’s dadwas the first contractor with the Alaska Railroad (federalgovernment) to sign for cord wood. The first year he signedfor 50 cords of wood, the second year for 100 cords ofwood, and the third year for 150 cords. Most of that woodcame from Sawmill Island.

Later on, Robert’s dad signed a contract with the federalgovernment to produce 1,000 cords of wood. People from hisvillage produced the 1,000 cords of wood. Robert’s brothersand dad cut about 360 cords. People would stack the cordsalong the river and the steamboats would use them to powerthe boats up and down the Tanana and Yukon rivers. Duringthe war, the federal government leased steamers from Canadaand had another three steamers that traveled these rivers,hauling materials to the Galena base.

Today, Neil Charlie’s allotment is partly located on SawmillIsland. Robert Charlie says that his family used to have their fishcamp on the island. He remembers as a child seeing old slabsof wood and sawdust where Wright had his portable sawmill.

21

wind

Stop felling completelyin high winds.

Use the lean of the tree tostart the fall.

Check the landing area for hiddenstumps or rocks that can damageyour valuable tree. Don’t damagethe other trees.

Plan ahead foryour escaperoute (watch thebutt: it kicks).

One-third of the waythrough the tree

First cut a wedge-shapedchunk about one third of theway through the tree in thedirection you want it to fall.

plasticfellingwedge Then make the

second cut on theother side of thetree, slightly abovethe first cut. Use afelling wedge ifneeded to start thetree falling.

Leave wood in the middle for a“hinge” so the tree falls in the rightdirection.

Safe tree felling

22

After a couple of years lyingaround with the bark on, logs willstart to rot and may become barkbeetle habitat. At this point, it maybe best to peel the logs and treatthem with a water-repellent woodpreservative to keep them sounduntil you can begin to build.

Spring is the worst time to felland peel a log. However, if youmust use wet, green logs, placethem on the wall as soon as pos-sible so that they take a set in linewith the shape of the building.

If the logs begin to turn greenwith mold, wash them with asolution of household bleach anddetergent, rinse thoroughly, andallow to dry completely. Protectthem with a water-repellent woodpreservative and allow them toseason before applying the finalfinish.

The FoundationAs we noted earlier, the configura-tion of a foundation for a log houseis the same as a good foundationfor any structure of comparablesize and weight. The differencecomes in the weight of the walls,and the means of attaching the firstround of logs to the foundation.

There is an ongoing debate ofwhether to place the first logsdirectly on top of the treated foun-dation sill plate or on top of atimber of the same height as thefloor joists. If you use a timber for arim joist, it is a relatively easymatter to attach the first round oflogs, using whatever pinningsystem you use for the rest of thelog wall. Some log builders prefer tobuild on top of the plywoodsubfloor, which has been framed tothe outside of the sill plate. In eithercase, the logs or timbers must besecurely attached to the foundationwith long anchor bolts or withcoupling nuts connecting all-threadrods to the anchor bolts. Somebuilders extend 1/2-inch rebar 18inches to 2 feet out of the founda-tion, drill the log accordingly, andbend the rebar tightly against thefirst logs with a sledge hammer. Ifthe logs sit on top of a floor, addi-tional blocking should be installedwhere the joists are parallel to thelay of the logs.

Add blocking (crush blocks)under the wall where thelogs run parallel to the floorjoists.

rim joist

pressure-treated ornaturally decay-resistantwood sill plate, withclosed-cell sill sealerunderneath

floor joistfiberglass

foaminsulation

untreated wood mustbe at least 6 inchesabove ground

23

flashing

6-by-10 timber

closed cellsill sealer

closed cell sill sealer and caulk

hardwood dowels,steel pins, rebar or bolts

protection boardor coating required

damp proofing

exterior foam insulationR-value varieswith region and design

seal all cracks, penetrations, andjoints with approved sealer

4-inch concrete slabradon/moisture retarder

rigid foam insulation

compacted earth

non-frost-susceptible materials

gravel base

heated basement

radon sub-slab suction system

2-inch ledger for floor joists to rest on

rigid foam caulked on four sides with Tremco

countersink

Sheetrock

vapor retarder

R-value varies with region and design

treated lumber or naturally decay-resistant wood sill plate

24

NOME

ANCHORAGE

FAIRBANKS

BETHEL

2

3

4

2Possible Magnitudemax. damage (Richter) of largest

Zone to structures earthquake

0 none less than 3.0

1 minor 3.0–4.5

2 moderate 4.5–6.0

3 major greater than 6.0potential damage is greater than

4 zone 3 due to geologic and tectonicfeatures

Source: Environmental Atlas of Alaska, 1978Charles Hartman and Philip Johnson

3

Rebar set in the concrete and leftprotruding high enough to comethrough the first round and then bentover parallel with the log. This methodwill also work with a standard rim joistand crush blocks (see illustration onpage 22).

Plan ahead and decideon the method ofanchoring before youpour concreteor install piers.

Options for attaching the half log to the foundation

Seismic zones in Alaska

A long J-bolt anchor lefthigh enough for a largetimber to be bolteddown and woodendowels or rebar used toanchor the logs to thistimber.

countersink 1"

25

Most of the engineered ply-wood I-beam systems have compat-ible laminated rim joists, whichmay eliminate the need for extracrush blocking along the ends ofthe joists. Follow manufacturer’sdirections. In any case, build itstrong so that the connections ofthe logs to the foundation, theconnections between logs, and theconnection of the roof to the logsare all designed to meet the engi-neering requirements of yourspecific earthquake zone, windload, and snow load design levels(see seismic zones map, previouspage).

Permafrost FoundationsOne way to support a log structureon permafrost is to build it onpilings that are drilled, driven, ordug to below the active seasonalfrost layer and deep enough toprovide lateral sway bracing. Itshould be drilled deep enough intothe permanently frozen ground tofreeze the piling in place. The floormust be well insulated and situated

wood beam

3'-0"wedges

U-bolts

three layers of pressure-treated lumber

wood beam

plywood plate

8 inches

active freeze-thaw layer(at least 40 inches; may be much more)

12 inches dia.

timber piling

sand slurry

polyethylene orasphalt paperwrapped aroundpiling

Examples of foundationsfor permafrost

26

about three feet above grade toallow outside air to flow under thehouse in winter to keep the groundfrozen and to shade the surface insummer from the heat of the sun.Avoid disturbing the organicground cover that insulates the soil.(See Building in the North by Eb Ricefor an in-depth discussion. SeeAppendix D.)

Another permafrost foundationis post and pad, where a bed ofgravel is placed on the undisturbedvegetation mat and treated woodtimbers are embedded in the graveland tightly stacked in alternatinglayers to support either posts orbeams to support the building.Some builders are building a treatedtimber system of railroad ties andhorizontal beams to support a homeon a gravel pad.

A promising new-high techpermafrost foundation calledTriodetic has been used extensivelyin the Canadian north and has beenused in arctic Alaska in the last fewyears with apparent success. TheTriodetic foundation system incor-porates a series of interconnectedtriangles of steel tubes to form abridge over unstable soils.

The Triodetic brand space frame is one option for building onpermafrost.

A nice-looking post and pad foundation installed near Fairbanks.

27

Log Working ToolsA log builder’s tool kit can range incost and complexity from an ax anda cross-cut saw to an array of chainsaws, electric planers, routers,grinders, and drills. The main toolin a modern log worker’s kit is apowerful, lightweight chain sawwith a 16-to-20-inch bar. Rubberanti-vibration dampers shouldconnect the handlebar to the saw toprotect the operator from problemswith his or her hands.

Other essential tools include agood sharp ax; a draw knife; asharp pocket knife; a log scribefitted with level bubbles; pencils,marking pens, and lumber crayons;a chalk-box string line; a two-footcarpenter’s level; heavy-dutyelectric drill and auger bits; chisels;wooden mallet; claw hammer; andsledge hammers. For moving logsyou will need Peaveys and a me-chanical winch or a block andtackle system. For big logs you willneed a crane or a high lift system ofsome sort. For sources of log work-ing tools, see Appendix D, page D-8.

cant hook

Peavey

Swede hook(log carrier)

chalk box/plumb bob

slickcurvedgouge

chisel

log dogs (24 to 36inches long, 4 to 6inches high)

log scribe

2-poundsledge

drawknife

axe

chain saw guidescorp

gouge knifeor scorp

electric chain saw sharpener

adz

28

Half LogsThe first round begins with a pairof half logs. These are usually runthe shortest length of the building.When supported at each end, eitheron the wall or on a pair of skids, alog will usually come to rest withthe bow down and the straightedges to the sides. Roll the log backand forth with a Peavey to locatethe very straightest lie and hold itin place with a log dog or withwedges with the straight edges ofthe log to the sides (see illustration#1, next page).

Use a chalk line to snap a linedown the center of the mass of thelog. Use a level to mark verticallines on each end of the log at thecenterline just established (see #2,next page).

Then roll the log over until theend marks are horizontal. Dogsecurely and snap a line down thelength of the log on the other side.

If you have an attachment toturn your chain saw into a two-man saw, then sawing the half logsis relatively straightforward sinceeach of you have a line to guide thesaw. If you are cutting singlehandedly, you may want to placean observer on the far side to signalup or down.

If you cut the half log from avertical position, with the log lyingwith the centerline on top, it is bestto have only one sawyer cut theentire length of the log from oneend to the next without changingdirection. That way, if one person’ssense of vertical is a little bit out, atleast it will be consistent and won’tcompound any error.

Once the log is sawn in half,secure both halves in a horizontalposition and brush the surfacestraight and smooth with the edgeof your chain saw. This is an ac-quired skill and will come with alittle practice.

Snap a center line on the bottomof both half logs and snap anotherparallel line near the outer edge justoutside the foundation (see #4, nextpage). Cut a 1/4-inch-deep kerf at theouter line with a circular saw tohold a metal drip edge flashing. Ifyou do not have metal flashingavailable, cut a 1/4-inch deep groovewith a chain saw to serve as a dripbreak and to prevent water fromflowing under the first round oflogs.

Transfer the center line to thetop of each half log, using a level toextend a line on each end of the log.The half logs are then placed on thefoundation with the center markslined up with the wall centerlinesmarked on the foundation or floor.Place any bow to the outside. Buttends should run the same directionso that when you reach the top ofthe wall, the top round will end upwith the butts facing the same wayto support a long roof overhang atthe gable ends if desired, and thetop round will be easier to finish inany case. Some builders choose toalternate the butt-tip lie of the halflogs and subsequent plate logs.

Use closed-cell sill seal or EPDMgaskets to provide a weather-tightseal between the half logs and thefloor or foundation. Caulk the firstlogs to the floor with a bead ofsealant along each side of the sillseal.

29

Cutting the half log

3

4

2

1wooden wedge tohold log in place

log dog

cutting the kerf for flashing

or cut saddle on topof support logs

30

�y�y

�y��yy

CL

CL

First round half logs are usually runthe shortest length of the building.

pair small ends inthe same direction

Line up centerlineof logs with layoutlines on floor.

first round half logs withflashing groove already cut

three-quarter logs

flashinggroove or kerf

flashing

sill sealer

sill sealer

side A side

B

side A

side B

Line up the logs overthe foundation.

bead of sealant (caulk)

31

Three-quarter LogsThe second logs to be placed areoften referred to as three-quarterlogs because about a quarter of thelog is cut off the bottom to restsquarely on the foundation or floor.Slab off the bottom of the three-quarter logs to provide a flat widthof about six inches, using the sametechniques described for cutting thehalf log. The width of the flatbottom of the three-quarter logsmay vary from end to end in orderto leave enough wood over thenotches. Always consider theheight of the log to be crossed andthe diameter of the butt or tip thatwill be crossing over the log youare working on.

Cut a 1/4-inch deep kerf forflashing parallel to the centerline ofthe log just outside the foundationor floor line. Place the two three-quarter logs on top of and at rightangles to the half logs, with thecenterlines lining up with thecenterlines marked on the floor orfoundation.

Check to be sure that the flatbottoms are exactly parallel to thefloor and shim them to level ifrequired so that when notched to fitover the half logs, they will lay flaton the floor, evenly compressingthe closed-cell seal sill gasketmaterial under the bottom round.

There are several ways to notchthis first round together. This and ahost of other notches are discussedin detail by B. Allan Mackie inBuilding With Logs and Notches ofAll Kinds (see bibliography inAppendix D for these and otherbooks). All notches should be self-draining and should restrict theflow of heat, air, and moisture inand out of the structure for the lifeof the building.

Compression-FitSaddle NotchThe current notch of choice byprofessional log builders is thecompression-fit saddle notch. Theshoulders of the log below aresaddle-scarfed off at an angle thatforms, in cross section, the shape ofa domed pyramid with the sidessloping toward the top, leavingabout a 3-inch domed top. The top

A good modern log home built with a compression-fit saddlenotch.

Prebuilding the log walls at a convenient place before reassem-bling at the final homesite. The logs are peeled just before use tokeep them in good shape.

32

should be about the same width asthe lateral groove of the next log.

By cutting the scarfs (see page34) you remove the sapwood,which tends to shrink and com-press more than the heartwooddoes. You also create a betterlocking shape so that the top logfits over the log below like a hugepipe wrench, preventing it fromtwisting or turning. You have to cuta relief opening in the top of thenotch so that the sides of the notchcan bear the weight of the logs asthey shrink and settle.

The compression-fit notchcomes to us from Scandinavia viaCanada thanks to the reinventionof an ancient Norwegian logbuilding technique by DelRadomske, a Canadian log homebuilder, inventor, teacher, andauthor. Radomske noticed that hisonce-perfectly fit full-scribed roundnotches were opening up after afew years of shrinking and settling.After perfecting the saddle notch,he observed that if there should be75 percent of the weight of a logresting on the notch and the re-maining 25 percent of the weighton the long or lateral groove, then

it would make sense to overscribethe lateral groove so that as the logssettled and shrunk, the lateralgroove would not hang up and holdthe notch open. He experimentedwith first a 1/8-inch overscribe, then1/4-inch, and evolved into an aver-age of 3/8-inch larger scribe settingfor the lateral groove than for thenotch. Over-scribing works bestwhen combined with a saddlenotch. The compression-fit notch,sometimes called shrink-to-fit, isdesigned to get tighter as the logssettle and shrink. Radomske is stillexperimenting with this shrink-to-fit system, as are numerous otherlog builders who search for perfec-tion.

Round NotchThe round notch full-scribe tech-nique typically uses identical scribesettings for both the long grooveand the round notches. It wouldprobably be better to overscribe around notch building, but the logshould bear on the top of the notchand not on the sides. The roundnotch will not keep the log belowfrom twisting. To tie the logs to-gether, drive hardwood pegs,dowels, through-bolts, or lag bolts,or pin them with rebar into pre-drilled holes through each round oflogs to the rounds below. Keep trackof the pins with marks on the logsso that you don’t hit them whencutting out a window or spline.

Log ScriberA modern log scriber consists of a10 or 12-inch divider fitted with apencil holder and adjustable levelbubbles. The principle of scribing isbased on parallel lines. The bottomleg of the scriber rides along the

A compression fitsaddle notch

33

Using a layout board to mark the log for a scarf. See drawing #3,page 37.

Use a benchmark to set the levelbubbles for consistency.

lower log and the upper leg tracesits shape on the upper log. Thelevel bubbles are adjusted to main-tain horizontal and vertical controlof the dividers so that the exactshape of the lower log, includingbumps or depressions, is trans-ferred to the upper log. Many logbuilders use indelible pencils, andsome spray the logs with water orwindow washing solution from amist bottle to darken the line. Somebuilders adapt the pencil holder toaccept Sharpie-style felt-tip pins.This type of marker is especiallyuseful if you are scribing icy logs.

The First ScribeThe first scribing you will do is tofit the three-quarter logs to the halflogs. If you choose to use thesaddle-notch technique, you mayfirst cut scarfs on the shoulders ofthe half log. Some log buildersround notch the half and three-quarter logs. The shape of the scarfis often marked on the log, using atemplate to lay out scarf dimen-sions to ensure consistency ofappearance.

The scarf cut is made with achain saw, using a sweeping mo-tion somewhat similar to using aparing knife to remove a smallbruise on an apple. The slopedplane of the scarf must be consis-tent to provide a uniform bearingsurface for the sides of the notch inthe log above. Sand or plane theface of the scarf smooth.

For the first round, the notchesshould be under-scribed about ahalf inch so that with shrinkageand settlement the flat bottom ofthe three-quarter log will not hangup on the floor and cause thenotches to open. This first roundwill require a wide scribe setting,

34

cutting the scarf

brushing with the chainsaw to smooth thescarf

and considerable care must be takento ensure that the level bubbles areset exactly so that the points of thescribe are perpendicular to the floor.This setting can be verified bychecking against a plumb linemarked on a perfectly verticalsurface previously established nearthe building site.

Scribing the NotchThe log to be notched is placed sothat the center line of its mass isexactly over the wall center linemarked on the subfloor or founda-tion, with the straightest sidesparallel to the floor. With thestraightest sides top and bottomand any bow to the outside of thebuilding, dog the log firmly in placeso that it will not budge with peoplesitting or walking on it.

With the exception of the firstround, which is flattened on the

35

Scarf is sanded smooth, ready for final scribing. Notestress relief kerf on top of logs to promote controlledchecking.

Scribing for the groove

Hold the scribe gently with both hands,keeping the level bubbles between thelines.

bottom and therefore has a predict-able depth of notch, all other logsmust be “rough” notched or “first”notched to drop the new log towithin 1 1/2 or 2 inches of the logbelow. This is easily done by open-ing the scribe to the space betweenthe logs just inside the notch ateach end. Mark this setting on the

top of the log and reduce the scribesetting by the distance you wish touse for your final scribe, say 2inches or three fingers width. Scribethe first notch with this new setting.

Hold the scribe gently with bothhands, and keeping the levelbubbles between the lines, scribe

36

from the bottom up and the topdown on both sides of the lowerlog. Move to the other side of thenew log and scribe with the samesetting.

Move to the other end, open thescribe to the space between the logsand close the dividers down by thesame amount as the other firstnotch. Repeat the same procedurefor the other notch.

When you cut the roughnotches and roll the log back inplace, the log should be parallel toand 1 1/2 to 2 inches above thelower log. Place the center of thelog exactly over the center of thewall below. Mark on top of thelower log with an indelible penciland a plumbed 2-foot level theexact location where the new logcrosses the lower log for futurereference.

Final ScribingStand back and evaluate the gen-eral lay of the log to be finalscribed. Note the largest gap andshim the log if necessary to main-tain a consistent lateral notch widthof about three or four inches.

Set the scribers to the largestgap between the two logs, thenopen them up about 1/8 inch andfinal scribe the two notches at thissetting. Remember, you will open thefinal scribed setting at least 3/8 inch toover-scribe the lateral notch.

Overscribe the log end exten-sions another 1/4 inch to preventthem from hanging up, since theinterior of the log walls are gener-ally heated and will dry out morerapidly than the unheated log ends.

Back on the GroundOnce the log being worked on hasbeen scribed all the way along bothsides, up and over the logs at eachintersecting wall, and around bothends with a continuous line outlin-ing the shape of the logs below, thenthe log dogs can be removed andthe log boomed down off the walland placed on log cribbing of acomfortable height to do all thechain saw work with both feet onthe ground.

We have found it faster andsafer to do most of the chain sawingstanding on the ground. If youdon’t have a crane to easily movethe logs, which is often the case forowner builders, you can do all thechain saw work up on the wall. Thisis dangerous work, on or off theground. Totally concentrate on thetask at hand, yet be aware of what isgoing on around you. Practicesafety at all times. Always wear eyeand hearing protection.

Do not get between a movinglog and a hard place. When undo-ing a log dog, have someone holdthe opposite end of the log with aPeavey with both of you standing tothe inside of the house and no onebelow you on the ground. Some-times a very crooked log can rollwith a lot of force and throw a logworker off the wall. Work in pairsand look after each other.

Cutting the NotchIf you are using a chain saw to cutthe notch and you are working withdry logs, it is a good idea to scorealong the scribe line with a sharpknife to prevent splinters fromextending beyond the scribe line.You could also use a sharp ax heldin one hand and a mallet to tap the

37

5

1

3

2

4

6

A rough or first scribe Remove the wood in pieces and roll the log over.

Use a layout board to keep all the scarfs thesame.

The final scribe

Most of the wood is cut with a chainsaw, but cutthe last quarter inch with hand tools.

The notch should be smooth and slightlycupped to accommodate insulation and preventhanging up on the lower log.

38

A

A

B

B

C

C

overscribe about 3/8-inch

overscribe 5/8-inch

5/8 inch

The final scribe is visible on this log on the skids, ready for cutting.

head of the ax as if it were a largechisel to score the line.

Cut from one side of the log at atime so that you can see when youare getting close to the scribe line.Leave about a quarter of an inch ofwood between your saw and theline so that you don’t turn anexpensive log into firewood bycutting beyond the scribe line. Cutthe remaining wood with a sharpaxe, chisel, or a sharp pocket knife.

For a small notch you may onlyneed to cut one vertical slice downthe center of the notch and oneangled cut along each side of thenotch.

Repeat the three cuts from theother side of the notch, and knockout the chunks of wood with theback of your ax or with a hammer.A larger notch may require a fewmore slices. With practice, anexperienced log worker can removemost of the wood within the scribeline in only a few large chunks.

Brush the remaining wood to beremoved from the notch with thebottom quarter of the nose of thesaw bar. Clean up the sides and thebottom by sweeping sideways backand forth with the bottom sector ofthe tip of the bar. Work from the topdown and from the center of the logto just short of the scribe line.

When you’re done, the notchshould be smooth and slightlycupped to accommodate insulationand prevent hanging up on thelower log. The sides of a compres-sion-fit notch must have strongedges to carry the weight of the logwhen the lateral notch is over-scribed (see Appendix B, page B-13,Log Building Standards).

39

Site-made log holders keep logs aligned at a precut door orwindow during scribing.

A lock notch is used when a log tip is too small to be notchedwithout weakening it considerably. A lock notch can also be usedon the plate log at the top of a wall for added strength to keepthe walls from splaying outward.

bottom log

top log(upside down)

Cutting the LateralGroove

The long V groove is no longerin favor since it removes morewood than necessary and in somecases weakens the logs to the pointwhere they slump on the wall andopen up the notches, which are nolonger carrying the weight. A moreperfect groove is the continuouscope, which is tedious with a chainsaw but can be done with a gouge-type adz or with a specialized toolcalled the Mackie gouge knife, alsoknown as a scorp.

The W cut groove is mostfrequently used now by log build-ing professionals. This cut removesmuch less wood than the V groove.Instead of making two deep cuts tocreate a V, you make four shallowcuts to form a W (see next page). Anarrow groove is tighter andstronger and faster to cut than awide groove.

Begin by cutting just inside thescribe line with the saw aimed justabove the center or radius point ofthe log. Make the first cut about aninch or two inches deep, dependingon the size of the log and the shapeof the log below.

The second cut is a repeat of thefirst cut from the other side of thegroove. The third cut is a linestarting at the top of the first cutand connecting at the bottom of thesecond cut. The fourth cut removesthe wood remaining near the firstcut, and a W will be formed incross-section.

You may have to remove someof the center portion of the W if atrial fit with a short piece of logsimilar to the log below hangs upand will prevent the log beingworked on from settling properly. Ifnecessary, the center of the W is

Plumb centerline markedon log endswith level

40

A W-groove in a log. Note shims tokeep the clearance for the overscribe.

continuous cope groove

1 234

W groove

Mackie gouge knife

traditional scorp

A sequence for cutting the W groove

Cutting the groove with a chainsaw.

41

slip joint for log settling

3/4-by-6-inch tongue and groove perpendicular to purlin. Caulkbetween boards at the plate log.

continuous vapor retarderrigid foam between 2-by-4 nailers

chinking on exterior for high wind areas

sealant or gasket

insulate

plate log

purlin

half log floor

closed-cellsill seal

gasket or sealant

vapor retarder on warm sideTyvek oncold side

easily removed with a long-handledcurved gouge or with a scorp asdescribed earlier.

The Log WallsCarefully align the center of

mass of succeeding logs as they arepositioned for scribing. Since youare working with a natural mate-rial, some of the logs will becurved. The overall objective is tohave the average center of all thelogs bear down on the center line ofthe wall, which in turn bears on thecenterline of the foundation.

Considerable time should betaken rolling and sliding the logwith a Peavey to be sure the log iswell centered and the straightestsides are top and bottom with anycurve to the outside of the building.Station a log worker at each end ofthe log to be aligned with Peaveysin hand. Each person should eye-ball the log and make small adjust-ments until both ends are wellcentered. Stand back from the wallseveral feet and hang a plumb bobas a sight line to examine the lay ofthe log. Do this from each end tosatisfy yourself that the wall isgoing up straight and plumb. Dogthe log securely and scribe andnotch as described above.

As the walls get higher, youneed to keep a check on the heightof all the walls and keep the even-numbered rounds about the sameheight. Carefully select logs that areof the correct diameter to maintainequal log wall heights. Strive at alltimes to cut about halfway throughthe log with the corner notches.This is of course the ideal and canonly happen if the logs were turnedon a lathe to exactly the samediameter.

If a small tip must notch over alarge butt, a lock notch should beused to leave enough wood to avoidbreaking the tip (see illustration,page 39). See Log Building Construc-tion Guide by Rob Chambers for adetailed discussion of log selection(see Appendix D, References andBibliography).

42

Sealing the vapor barrier around a log ridge pole.

Both fiberglass and backer rod installed on a log.

Airtight Log WallsThe log walls must be airtight toresist the flows of heat, air, andmoisture. This can be accomplishedwith the use of tar-saturated foamstrips such as EM Seal, EPDMgaskets, or backer rod and flexiblechinking materials such asPermachink or equivalent, andtight-fitting log work. Seal the

cracks between logs on or near theinside surface to prevent moisture-laden air from reaching the dewpoint and condensing between logs,causing accelerated self-destruction.Properly fitted, full-scribe logs willnot require any visible chinkingsuch as was used in the old days tokeep out the weather and keep thecat inside. In high wind and rainenvironments you should air-sealboth inside and outside the logs.

Finishing the LogsOn the inside, two coats of log oil orclear acrylic latex or polyurethanevarnish should be enough of avapor retarder to slow the flow ofhousehold water vapor through thelogs. You will want to treat theoutside of the logs with a UV-inhibiting water repellent preserva-tive log oil or stain. Clear exteriorfinishes do not last as long orprotect the logs as well as pig-mented finishes. There are manyproducts on the market designed to

Logs ready to be lifted into place.

43

airborne fiberglassparticles

air leak

indoorsoutdoors

indoorsoutdoors

poor seal

better seal

backer rodor gasket

Fiberglass sealing of log walls: good and bad

caulking

chinking

backer rodor gasket

fair seal

outdoors indoors

outdoors indoors

best sealboth sides

finish logs, so do your homeworkto see what is recommended in theliterature and by the variousvendors or in the trade journals.

Chinking and SealingFiberglass chinking or fiberglasssill seal alone will not createenough of an air seal to pass ablower door test. Unless the logwork is very tight and will remainairtight over time, it is not likely topass the airtightness requirementsof BEES.

A closeup of the log in place with fiberglass and gaskets.

Fiberglass chink-ing or fiberglasssill seal alone willnot createenough of an airseal.

“

”

Dualfoambacker rod

Dualfoambacker rod

fiberglass

kerf

44

seal all panel jointswith subfloor adhesive

Chinking withtrapezoidal ortriangular backerrod (could be doneon inside or bothsides).

outdoors

indoors

Glue joints between pieces of plywood and glue the plywood tothe joists. Ideally, use 3/4 " tongue and groove exterior gradeplywood. Glue, nail, and screw for a squeak-free floor system.

There are several log chinkingmaterials available to make a loghouse tight.

The log building details pre-sented in this book describe how toconstruct scribe-fit chinkless loghomes. However, some people likethe looks of chinking, and manyolder log homes may be in need ofchinking to reduce infiltrationbetween the logs.

Modern chinking systemsrequire the use of triangular ortrapezoidal-shaped backer rod toform an even, flat surface uponwhich to spread the chinkingmaterial. Use a flexible chinkingmaterial such as Perma-Chink orWeatherall over the backer rod for adurable seal between the logs.

Old-time chinking materialssuch as sphagnum moss or oakumare rarely used in today’s loghomes. Clean sphagnum moss is agood alternative insulation for logbuilding in the bush but may not bein the AkWarm computer files.

Short Log ConstructionIf you do not have any liftingequipment, you can build a goodlog house using logs short enoughto be handled by a couple of people.A traditional method of stacking upshort logs to frame a wall is knownby its French name as pièce-sur-pièce, or piece-on-piece in English.This is a variation of squared postand beam construction where ahorizontal infill of round logs isfitted between vertical round logposts. The vertical posts are flat-tened on two sides and grooved toaccept a tenon fashioned on each endof the log infill pieces.

45

Piece-sur-piece, orpiece on piece

This large building, rebuilt at the site of old Fort Edmonton,Canada, was built piece-sur-piece.

Phot

o b

y Pe

ggy

Swar

tz

An alternative to mortise andtenon joinery is to groove both thepost and the infill log ends toreceive a 2-by-4 spline to join them.This method of construction canuse a wall jig to ensure consistency,allowing for all of the wall compo-nents to be prefabricated off siteeven before the foundation iscompleted. Combining post andbeam and square timber framingtechniques with round logs squaredoff only where two or more beamsconnect can allow you to fabricateprecisely engineered structuraltimber frames or trusses in theshop.

������

yyyyyy

������

yyyyyy

2-by-1

2

foil f

oam or e

quivalent

2-by-1

2

caulk 2-by-12s to lowerlog to prevent waterfrom entering lower

channel

fiberglass

4" wideminimumscribe

plate log header(stationary)

fiberglassfiberglass

fiberglassinfill log(beforesettling)

infill log(settled)

2-by-1

2

foil f

oam or e

quivalent

2-by-1

2

Piece-sur-piece top log settling detail

46

The portable hydraulic pump for drivingthe tools.

A hydraulic drill being demonstrated ata log building conference. Note theone-handed operation.

No exhaust fumes is one benefit fromusing hydraulic chain saws indoorsduring winter construction.

Making It EasierMost timber framing tools and logworking tools can be poweredelectrically or even hydraulically.Cutting out frames and trussesinside in the winter can greatlyextend your building season andgive you a jump on the springbuilding season. You can have thehouse structure ready to install onthe foundation as soon as the flooris completed. However, gasoline-powered chainsaws should not beused when working inside a con-fined area because deadly exhaustfumes could build up inside thebuilding. Hydraulic or electric toolsare safer inside.

47

Plate logs, purlins, and ridgepoles are higher stress areas, and the biggest andbest logs should be saved for them.

purlin

ridge pole

plate log

Choose the best logs for critical places such as plate logs, purlins, and ridgepoles.

The Plate LogThe plate log, sometimes called thecap log, is the top wall log uponwhich the roof system rests. Theplate logs and the purlins andridgepole are usually picked outand set aside at the beginning ofthe job. They are straight and havestraight grain and are usually thebiggest and best, strongest andlongest logs since they usuallyextend five or six feet beyond thegable ends. The plate logs should

be chosen from this select group ofthe finest logs to end up level andthe same height from the floor in allfour corners. The plate logs mayhave to be fitted with lockingnotches to resist outward thrustfrom the roof components. Theplate logs could also be through-bolted at the windows and doorheaders and pegged or pinned onclose centers where there are nowindows.

48

More Than Just LogsTraditional Athabascans used the spruce tree in many ways.One important way was for medicinal purposes. Several parts ofthe tree, including the top, the inner bark, needles, and thesap, were used to treat heart problems, kidney trouble, ulcers,stomach sicknesses, weak blood, colds, sore throat, sores,burns, and tuberculosis. Shamans used the top of the spruce toget rid of bad spirits. Dust from the spruce cone was prescribedto dry up runny ears, and the pitch was used as an antisepticand to stop bleeding. People used the inner bark for bandages.

Spruce trees provided shelter long before Europeans usedthem for log cabins. Athabascans used the outer bark forroofing and flooring, the boughs for insulation, and of courselogs for building walls and roofs. Spruce logs are also used tobuild weirs, fish traps, fish racks, canoes, rafts, and other things.

People still use the outer bark of the spruce tree on fish cuttingtables to keep the fish from slipping off. They also use it as adye. Boughs could be made into makeshift snowshoes or serveas mattresses for people and dogs.

Dead spruce wood was useful for smoke for tanning hides andkeeping away mosquitoes, and made dye for moosehide. Ofcourse, spruce is a good firewood. Also, the wood could becarved to make utensils, tools, toys, fish traps, and weapons.The roots became lashing for fish traps and snares and werewoven into baskets and fishnets.

Spruce pitch is a useful glue, antiseptic, chewing gum, water-proofing, and hair dressing.

The information above comes from Eliza Jones and Dena’ina K’et’una: TanainaPlantlore, compiled by Priscilla Kari, and Upper Tanana Ethnobotany by PriscillaRussell Kari.

Windows and DoorsTypically, heat loss through wallsaccounts for only about 20 percentof the overall energy use of a build-ing. Air leakage typically accountsfor 30 to 35 percent of heat loss.

Windows and doors need to beinstalled with airtight connectionsto the logs with a spline systemnotched into the ends of the logs,which allows the logs to settlewithout increasing air leakage.

Choose windows and doorscarefully for your new log home. Inorder to score well on an energyrating, you must install windowsand doors with high R-values. Themost energy-efficient windows havesome sort of low emissivity (low-E)coating on multiple panes. Thepanes should be separated withnonconductive spacers. The spacebetween the panes may be filledwith an inert gas such as argon orkrypton to reduce convectioncurrents between the panes andincrease the insulation value of thewindow. This energy-efficientglazing system should be fitted intoan airtight insulated frame. Win-dows should have an R-value of atleast R-3, but R-4 or higher wouldfurther reduce heat loss and im-prove your energy rating.

Doors must be R-7 or better.Handmade doors are often craftedto complement a log home and canbe built with a core of very highR-value rigid foam.

Caution! Door and windowcutouts in a log wall are probablythe most dangerous of all chain sawoperations in a log house. Since thetop of the window or door cutout isover the sawyer’s head, the likeli-hood of a kickback and seriousinjury to the head and face is veryhigh. If you must cut out window

49

or door headers over your head,wear a hard hat and hang on tightto the chain saw.

The safest way to cut out thetop of a door or window opening iswhile it is still on the skids where itwas placed for notching. Measurethe exact location for the windowon the bottom side of the headerlog. This will be at the windowheight plus the rough frame dimen-sions plus the anticipated settle-ment space. This will usually befrom 7 to 10 inches greater than theheight of the factory-built windowframe.

Straight, accurate side cuts canbe made using a chain saw lumbermill attached to vertical 2-by-4s or2-by-6s. If you have more than onewindow of the same size, a jigmade of 2-by material can befabricated and moved from win-dow to window. In any case, thevertical legs of the jig should reston the floor, and it should beaccurately plumbed and tempo-rarily nailed to the log wall to keepit from moving during the cuttingoperation.

Cutting the SplinesWindows and doors should beattached to the log walls using avertical 2-by wood spline notchedinto the log ends on each side of theopening. If a log wall with a dooror large window must hold up ahuge snow load, it would be wiseto use 1/4"x1"x2" steel C-channel forspline material in addition to thewood spline.

These spline notches are oftencut with a chain saw using a tech-nique similar to cutting the longW-notch. Be especially careful asyou approach the top of the win-dow. Chances are that you will hit

the header with the top of the sawbar, resulting in a dangerous kick-back situation. Use a very sharpsaw chain at high RPM to minimizekickback and hold on tight to thechainsaw. A much safer method ofcutting these spline notches is to usea heavy-duty router to cut a splinegroove in the log ends. Nail avertical 1x4 to the log ends to guidethe router.

Door and window installationin a log structure requires uniquedetails to maintain an airtight fit asthe logs shrink and settle. The 4-to-6-inch settlement space over doorsand windows must be insulatedand fitted with an airtight vaporretarder that will remain effectiveover time.

Placement and PlanningWindows and doors in a log homeshould be located with consider-ation for solar aspect, prevailingwinter winds, roof avalanchepotential, and the structural ele-ments of log construction. Face themajority of windows south fornatural light and passive solar heat.

Open doors in so that you canget out if snow drifts pile up out-side the door. Better yet, orient thehouse so that prevailing winds keepyour front porch clear of snow. Donot put yourself and others inharm’s way by placing an entrydoor under the eaves of an ava-lanche-prone roof. Metal roofs arenotorious for dumping lots of snowall at once. Locate entry doors in thegable end of the house or under aprotective roof.

Air leakage typi-cally accounts for30 to 35 percentof heat loss.

“”

50

Cutting out a window using a jig andguide blocks bolted on each side tothe chain saw bar at both the tip andback near the motor. The bar must bemodified for this.

You should precut window anddoor headers in the logs while theyare still on the ground and upsidedown for notching.

guide blocks

51

Cutting out a window using a chain sawmill or guide that is clamped to the barof the chain saw and follows a board,keeping the cut straight and plumb.

Mark the location of any metalspikes or pins so you can avoidhitting them when cutting out thewindows and doors.

52

Window spline

Cutting a slot forthe spline

But much preferred is a wooden splinebecause it won’t attract water conden-sation and the damage that comes withit.

If the wall is considerably weakened bythe window or door openings, youmay have to use a steel C channel forreinforcing the spline.

insulate with sillsealer

insulate with sillsealer

1

2

3

4

53

A cold roof is kept cold by air movingabove the insulation and just under theroofing. This prevents ice damming andalso picks up moisture from the insula-tion and carries it out through the ridgevent.

The RoofOnce you have built an airtight logwall, you must then follow up withan energy-efficient roof, air sealedwith continuous sheets of 6-milpolyethylene with all penetrationstaped or caulked and the ceilingtightly sealed to the log work.There are many ways to put a roofon your log creation to shelter itfrom the elements. The classic loghouse had a low-pitched roof withgenerous eave and gable end

overhangs. The gables were madeof logs, which supported purlinsand a ridgepole and log rafters or aceiling completely framed withevenly sized poles lying side byside. A modern equivalent uses thesame log gables and purlins andridgepole techniques but replacesthe poles with tongue-and-groovespruce or pine paneling, topped offwith an insulated rafter-framedroof.

cap shinglecontinuous ridge ventover roofing

eave vent

maintain minimum airspace required byvent manufacturer

air space

foam insulation

vaporbarrier

54

caulking

caulk here in the groove where itpasses over the plate log.

plate log

vaporbarrier

foaminsulation

eave vent

tongue andgroove ceilingboards

plate log

roof framing

vaporbarrier

tongue andgroove ceilingboards

Sealing the CeilingAny style of roof should have anairtight vapor retarder, and the jointbetween the plate log and theceiling should be caulked. Eachtongue and groove ceiling boardshould be caulked in the groovewhere it passes over the plate log.The roof rafters should be deepenough to reach the insulationlevels required by BEES. There aremany different ways to build logtrusses or post and purlin or otherlog roof systems that are beyond thescope of this book. The bibliographyhas many good books on log build-ing and roof framing (Appendix D).

Hot Roof or Cold Roof?The designer must decide whetherto build a hot (unventilated) or acold (ventilated) roof. This decisionis usually based on the likelihood ofsnow building up on the roofduring the course of the winter. Ifsnow will accumulate, then a coldroof is in order.

Snow buildup insulates the roof,causing snow near the roof surfaceto melt from the heat of the build-ing. This melted snow runs downthe roof and refreezes at the edge,forming ice dams. These damscause water to back up underneaththe shingles or metal roofing.

Liquid water in the roof cavityis a problem. The solution to thisproblem is to provide ventilation inthe attic, so heat from the buildingdoes not melt the snow. Provide aminimum of 2-inch continuous airspace over the insulation andcontinuous screened eave and ridgevents.

If the building is on a site ex-posed to high winds and no snow islikely to accumulate on the roof, an

solidblock-ing

continuous bead ofcaulk on top ofplate log

air space

55

A hot roof must be tightly sealed.

The Roadhouse, 1926“The Alaskan roadhouse is a unique institution, and turns ableak, formidable country into one of hospitality. Nestled in aclearing in the spired spruce forest, built entirely of rough logsneatly notched together at the ends, the road house presents acozy and picturesque appearance. The building is divided into akitchen and a bunk room by means of a frail partition. In thecenter of the bunk room is a huge cast-iron stove capable oftaking a four-foot green log, which burns all night. Above thestove is suspended a large rack on which the weary travelerhangs his damp shoes and clothes, that he may put on dryapparel in the morning. Everything is very comfortable and cozy.In one corner is a small space partitioned off for an occasionalwoman traveler. The beds are two-storied bunks made of stripsof raw moose or caribou hide, called ‘babish,’ laced across thebottom. The bed is entirely without linen, but the blanket andquilts are ample. The floor is spread with shavings, and Cleanli-ness varies according to the owner, but as a rule, each takespride in his place and keeps it fairly neat.”

from Alaska Bird Trails by Herbert Brandt

Hot roof withno vents ateaves, gables,or ridge

continuous6-mil. polyvapor retarder

caulking

airtight hot roof may be desirable.A number of snow-resistant venti-lated roof designs have been ex-perimented with over the yearswith varying degrees of success.Whatever design you choose, keepin mind that an attic full of snowwill not last long. A hot roof mustbe tightly sealed.

All roofs must be designed toaccommodate snow loads and besecurely anchored to resist windand seismic loads.

continuous vapor retardersealed at all penetrations

solid blocking facia

subfaciarigid foam