china 12 tibet

7/29/2019 China 12 Tibet

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Tibet

Lhasa . . . . . . . . . . . . . 882

The FriendshipHighway . . . . . . . . . . . 893

Western Tibet . . . . . . 899

Best Places to Eat Snowland Restaurant(p887)

Third Eye Restaurant(p896)

Friendship SnowlandRestaurant (p893)

Best Places to

Stay Nomads tents at EverestBase Camp (p898)

Yabshi Phunkhang(p886)

Kyichu Hotel (p886)

Why Go?Though never exactly a Shangri La, Tibet has nonethelessheld the imagination of Western spiritual seekers, adven-turers and intrepid travellers for centuries. Double the sizeof France, and home to a mere three million people, theroof of the world promises incredible high-altitude scen-ery, awe-inspiring monastic cities, epic road trips and abeautiful, unique Himalayan culture that has endured a

half-century of assault and hardship.Extremely popular with Chinese travellers and withone of the fastest growth rates in China, much of Tibet ischanging fast, with new paved roads, airports and a rail-way spur planned for the coming years. The magic of oldTibet is still there, you just to have to work a bit harder tond it these days.

When to Go

March Thispolitically sensi-tive month bringspermit problems;avoid.

MaySeptemberHigh season:warm weather,some rain in July/August, and goodtrekking.

April & mid-OctoberNovember Agood time to visit,with fewer crowdsand warm days.

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History

Recorded Tibetan history began in the 7thcentury AD, when the Tibetan armies be-gan to assemble a great empire. Under KingSongtsen Gampo, the Tibetans occupiedNepal and collected tribute from parts ofYnnn. Shortly afterwards the Tibetanarmies moved north and took control ofthe Silk Road and the great trade centre ofKashgar, even sacking the imperial Chinesecity of Chngn (present-day Xn).

Tibetan expansion came to an abrupthalt in 842 with the assassination of anti-Buddhist King Langdarma; the regionsubsequently broke into independentfeuding principalities. The increasinginuence of Buddhism ensured that theTibetan armies would never again leavetheir high plateau.

By the 7th century, Buddhism had spreadthrough Tibet, though it had taken on aunique form, as it adopted many of the ritu-als of Bn (the indigenous pre-Buddhist be-lief system of Tibet). The combination of atraditional animistic religion with the eso-teric practices of Indian tantric Buddhismproved a very potent spiritual formula forthe Tibetans.

From the 13th century, power politicsbegan to play an increasing role in religion.In 1641, the Gelugpa (Yellow Hat order)used the support of Mongol troops to crushthe Sakyapa, their rivals. It was also dur-ing this time of partisan struggle that theGelugpa leader adopted the title of DalaiLama (Ocean of Wisdom), given to him bythe Mongols. From here on out, religion andpolitics in Tibet became inextricably en-twined and both were presided over by theDalai Lama.

With the fall of the Qing dynasty in1911, Tibet entered a period of de facto in-dependence that was to last until 1950. Inthis year a resurgent communist China in-vaded Tibet, claiming it was liberating overone million Tibetans from feudal serfdomand bringing it back into the fold of themotherland.

Increasing popular unrest to Chineseoccupation resulted in a full-blown revoltin 1959, which was crushed by the PeoplesLiberation Army (PLA). Amid popular ru-mours (likely true) of a Chinese plot tokidnap him, the Dalai Lama ed to India.He was followed by an exodus of 80,000 ofTibets best and brightest, who now repre-sent the Tibetan government-in-exile fromDharamsala, India.

The Dalai Lama, who has referred toChinas policies on migration as culturalgenocide, is resigned to pushing for au-tonomy rather than independence, thougheven that concession has borne little fruit.The Chinese for their part seem to be wait-ing for him to die, positioning themselvesto control the future politics of reincarna-tion. The Dalai Lamas tireless insistence ona non-violent solution to the Tibet problemled to him winning the Nobel Peace Prizein 1989, but although global sympathy onthe part of the Western world for the plightof the Tibetan people remains high, talk ofTibetan independence seems consigned tohistory.

The Chinese are truly baed by whatthey perceive as the continuing ingrati-tude of the Tibetans. They claim that Tibetpre-1950 was a place of abject poverty and

feudal exploitation. China brought roads,schools, hospitals, airports, factories andrising incomes.

Many Tibetans, however, cannot forgivethe destruction of their culture and heri-tage, the restrictions on religious expres-sion, the continued heavy military/policepresence, economic exploitation and theirobvious second-class status within theirown land. The riots and protests in Lhasa

in the spring of 2008 (the 49th anniversaryof the 1959 uprising) brought this simmer-ing dissatisfaction out into the open. Pro-tests that started when monks in Lhasabegan both commemorating the 1959 up-rising and also demonstrating against thecurrent detention of fellow monks soonescalated into demonstrations and vio-lence after reports of the arrests and beat-

PRICE INDICATORS

The following price indicators areused in this chapter:

Sleeping

$ less than Y130

$$ Y130 to Y400

$$$ more than Y400

Eating

$ less than Y30

$$ Y30 to Y80

$$$ more than Y80


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ings of protesting monks. Lhasa eruptedinto full-scale riots and protests spread toother Tibetan areas in Gns, Schun andQnghi provinces. The Chinese responseto the protests was predictable: arrest, im-prisonment and an increased police pres-ence in many monasteries. Armed riotpolice continue to occupy street corners inLhasas old town.

As immigration and breakneck moderni-sation continue, the government is gam-bling that economic advances will diusethe Tibetans religious and political aspi-rations. Its a policy that is working in therest of China. It remains to be seen whetherTibetans will be so easily bought.

Climate

Most of Tibet is a high-altitude desert pla-teau at more than 4000m and many passesexceed 5000m. Days in summer (June toSeptember) are warm, sunny and dry, andyou can expect some rainfall in southernTibet in the evenings, but temperaturesdrop quickly after dark. Sunlight is verystrong at these altitudes, so bring plenty ofhigh-factor sunscreen and lip balm.

LanguageMost urban Tibetans speak Mandarin inaddition to Tibetan. Even in the country-side you can get by with basic Mandarinin most restaurants and hotels, since theyare normally run by Mandarin-speakingHan or Hui Chinese. That said, Tibetansare extremely pleased when foreign visi-tors at least greet them in Tibetan, so itswell worth learning a few phrases. In Lha-

sa and Shigatse, it is easy to get by withEnglish at the more popular restaurantsand hotels.

8 Getting There & AwayNEPAL ROUTE The 865km road connectingLhasa with Kathmandu is known as the Friend-ship Highway (see p893). The main means oftransport for foreigners is a rented vehicle.

When travelling from Nepal to Lhasa, foreign-ers generally arrange transport and permits

through agencies in Kathmandu. Be careful withwhom you organise your trip the vast majorityof complaints about Tibet that we receive havebeen about budget trips from Kathmandu. Themost common option is a seven-day overlandbudget tour, which run two or three times a weekand cost from US$350, plus visa fees and returnight costs (around US$400). There are alsoy-in, y-out options.

Regardless of what the agency says, you willprobably end up in a bus with travellers withother companies. Accommodation en routeis pretty simple. Most agencies advertising inThamel are agents only; they dont actually runthe trips. The better agencies in Kathmanduinclude the following:

Ecotrek (%01-4423207; www.ecotrek.com.np,

www.ecotreknepl.com; Thamel)Explore Nepal Richa Tours & Travel (%01-4423064; w ww.explorenepalricha.com; 2nd fl,Namche Bazaar Bldg, Tri Devi Marg, Thamel)

Green Hill Tours (%01-4700803; www.greenhill-tours.com; Thamel)

Royal Mount Trekking (%01-4241452; www.royaltibet.com; Durbar Marg)

Tashi Delek Nepal Treks & Expeditions(%01-4410746; www.tashidelektreks.com.np;

Thamel)Whatever you do, when coming from Nepal donot underestimate the sudden rise in elevation;altitude sickness is very common. It is especiallynot recommended to visit Everest Base Campwithin a few days of leaving Kathmandu.

Heading to Nepal, you will arrange a 4WD tripas part of your Tibet tour.

The Nepalese Consulate-General (

; Nbr Lngshgun; Map p884;%0891-681 5744; ww w.nepalembassy.org.cn; 13Luobulingka Beilu;h10am-12.30pm Mon-Fri)in Lhasa issues visas in 24 hours. The currentfee for a 15-/30-/90-day visa is Y175/280/700.Bring a visa photo. Its also possible to obtainvisas at Kodari, the Nepalese border town (seep900).

QNGHI ROUTE Now that the railway con-nects Lhasa with Qnghi, there is no reasonto suer the long ride on the sleeper bus from

Golmud. Bear in mind that it is much harder toget train tickets to Lhasa than from Lhasa, soying in and taking a train out makes sense seep890 for details.

OTHER ROUTES Between Lhasa and Schun,Ynnn and Xnjing provinces are some of thewildest, highest and most remote routes in theworld. Its generally possible to enter and leaveTibet via these routes if you are travelling withan organised tour and have the proper permits.In 2010, permits were impossible to obtain foroverland routes through eastern Tibet, but theseshould reopen soon.

If you try to sneak in, note that the authoritiessometimes come down very heavily on travellersand the drivers giving them a lift. At the veryleast be aware that you are putting anyone whogives you a ride at risk of being ned and losing adriving licence.


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8 Getting AroundThese days almost all foreigners travel aroundTibet in a rented 4WD. Public buses outsideLhasa are o limits to foreigners, and bus sta-tions generally wont sell you a ticket.

As for cycling its possible, but currently ex-pensive, as you still need a guide and transport,even if youre not travelling in it! Cyclists in Tibethave died from road accidents, hypothermia andpneumonia. Tibet is not the place to learn theins and outs of long-distance cycling do yourtraining elsewhere. For experienced cyclists,the LhasaKathmandu trip is one of the worldsgreat rides. Check out Tibet Overland: A Routeand Planning Guide for Mountain Bikers andOther Overlanders by Kym McConnell, and www.tibetoverland.com.

Lhasa %0891 / POP 400,000 / ELEV 3650M

Lhasa is the traditional political and spirit-ual centre of the Tibetan world. Despiterampant Chinese-led modernisation Tibets

premodern and sacred heritage survives inthe form of the grand Potala Palace (for-mer seat of the Dalai Lama), the ancientJokhang Temple (Tibets rst and mostholy), the great monastic centres of Sera,Drepung and Ganden, and the citys count-less other smaller temples, hermitages,caves, sacred rocks, pilgrim paths, andprayer-ag-bedecked hilltops.

TIBET TRAVEL RESTRICTIONS

Troubled Tibet is essentially part of China, yet in many ways separate from it. Travelregulations here dier markedly from the rest of the nation; tourists currently need toarrange a tour in order to visit any place in the Tibetan Autonomous Region (TAR).

Travel regulations are in constant ux in Tibet and travel infrastructure is changing ata rapid rate. Be sure to check current regulations with travel companies and check the

designated Tibet branch of the Lonely Planet Thorn Tree(http://thorntreelonelyplanet.com).

Travellers to Tibet face much tighter restrictions than in other parts of China. Author-ities would say this is for tourists protection, though it has more to do with foreignerstendency to sympathise with the Tibetan cause and bear witness to political tensions.Recent restrictions forbid foreigners from visiting a Tibetan home or staying overnightin a monastery.

At the time of research:

Foreign travellers need a Tibet Tourism Bureau (TTB) permit to get into Tibet andan Alien Travel Permit (and other permits) to travel outside Lhasa.

To get these permits you need to pre-book an itinerary, a guide for your entire stayand transport for outside Lhasa with an agency, before travelling to Tibet.

You can be a group of any size (including a group of one) but youll find 4WD ratescheapest if you travel in a group of three or four.

To get on a plane or train to Lhasa you need to show your TTB permit. For the planeyou need the original, so your agency will courier that to you at an address in China(normally a hostel). A printout/copy is currently acceptable for the train.

You dont need to book transport for your time in Lhasa but you do need to visit themain monasteries with a guide.

For travel outside Lhasa you will need to pre-arrange transport hire (normally a4WD). You cannot travel outside Lhasa independently and cannot take public trans-port. In case this changes, we have included basic information on public transport.

Most agencies charge around Y600 for permits, Y250 per day for a guide and any-where from US$80 to US$150 per day for 4WD hire (not per person). Many agencieslet you book your own accommodation.

Travel from Nepal to Tibet brings its own complications, since foreigners can onlytravel on a group visa (a separate piece of paper), which is only valid from two to threeweeks and is almost impossible to extend. If you already have a Chinese visa in your

passport it will be cancelled. Group visas cost US$58 and take 10 days, or you canpay US$118 for express service. US citizens pay a surcharge. See p890.


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SIGHTS

TIBETSIGHTS

TIBETLHASA

In Lhasa, the colour, humour and reli-gious devotion of the immensely likeableTibetan people is as much of a highlight asthe big sights. This is also one of Asias bestpeople-watching towns, and the old town isone of the most fascinating to explore.

Lhasa is a pretty comfortable travellersdestination these days. There are dozensof good budget and midrange hotels andno shortage of excellent inexpensive res-taurants. English is not widely spoken, butyoull have no trouble in the more popularhotels, restaurants, cafes and travel agen-cies. Lhasa is also currently the only placein Tibet where you have a certain freedomto explore without your guide, plus its

cheaper than the rest of Tibet because youdont need to hire transport.

Lhasa divides clearly into a sprawlingChinese section to the west and a muchsmaller but innitely more interesting Ti-betan old town in the east, centred on the

wonderful Barkhor area. The latter has thebest food and accommodation and is easilythe best place to be based.

1 SightsIn addition to the main sights listed here,Lhasas old town is worth exploring for itsbackstreet temples, craft shops and inter-esting Muslim neighbourhood.

The companies listed here can arrange tours and permits for Tibet and are used to deal-ing with individual travellers.

Lhasa

Tibet F.I.T. Travel(%634 9239; www.tibetfit.com; [email protected]; 2nd fl, Snowl-and Hotel, 4 Zangyiyuan Lu) Contact Lhakpa Tsering.

Namchen Tours(www.shangrilatours.com) Based at Barkhor Namchen House,p887, in Lhasas old town.

China International Travel Service(CITS;; Zhnggu GujLxngsh;%691 2080; [email protected]; Zangyiyuan Lu) Contact Tenzin.

Shigatse Travels(%633 0489; ww w.shigatsetravels.com; Yak Hotel, 100 Beijing Donglu)Higher-end tours.

Snow Lion Tours(%134 3932 9243; www.snowliontours.com; 1 Danjielin Lu) Contact

Wangden Tsering, with a branch in Xnng and an office in Bijng.

Spinn Caf(%136 5952 3997; www.cafespinn.com; 135 Beijing Donglu) Contact Kong/Pazu.

Other Cities in China

Leo Hostel(; Gungjyun Fndin; Map p48;%10-8660 8923; www.leohostel.com; 52 Dazhalan Xijie, Qinmn, Bijng)

Tibetan Connections(%135 1973 7734; www.tibetanconnections.com; 16th fl, Bldg No5, International Village Apartments, 2-32 Jiancai Xiang) Recommended.

Sims Cozy Travel(%028-8335 5 322, 133 9819 5552; www.gogosc.com; Sims CozyGuest House, Chngd) Popular agency and hostel (p709) in Chngd.

Wind Horse Adventure Tours (%971-613 1358; www.windhorseadventuretours.com;19 Nan Dajie, Xnng) Contact Tashi Phuntsok.

For overland trips from Ynnn, consult companies such as Khampa Caravan(; Kngb Shngdo Tnxin Lxngsh; www.khampacaravan.com), p677 andHaiwei Trails(www.haiweitrails.com), p677, in Zhngdin, and China Minority Travel(www.china-travel.nl) in Dl, p659.

See also our Itineraries chapter for a permit-free alternative way to see Tibetan lands.


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Barkhor PILGRIM CIRCUIT(;; Bku; Map p888) Its impossi-ble not to be swept up in the wondrous tideof humanity that is the Barkhor, a kora (pil-grim circuit) that winds clockwise aroundthe periphery of the Jokhang Temple. Youllswear it possesses some spiritual centrifu-gal force, as every time you approach within

50m, you somehow get sucked right in andgladly wind up making the whole circuitagain! Spiritual souvenirs and pilgrim ac-cessories line the entire circuit, with stallsselling prayer ags, amulets, turquoisejewellery, Tibetan boots, cowboy hats, yakbutter and juniper incense. Its the perfectplace to start your explorations of Lhasa,and the last spot youll want to see beforeyou bid the city farewell.

The crowd of pilgrims is captivating.Braided-haired Khambas from eastern Tibetswagger in huge chubas (cloaks) with or-nate daggers; and Amdowa nomads fromthe northeast wear ragged sheepskins or,for women, incredibly ornate braids andcoral headpieces.

Jokhang Temple TEMPLE

( ; ; Dzho S; Map p888; admis-sion Y85; hinner chapels 8am-12.30pm) The1300-year-old Jokhang Temple is the spirit-ual heart of Tibet: the continuous waves ofawestruck pilgrims prostrating themselvesoutside are testament to its timeless allure.

The Jokhang was originally built tohouse an image of Buddha brought to Tibetby King Songtsen Gampos Nepalesewife. However, another image, the JowaSakyamuni, was later moved here by the

kings other wife (the Chinese PrincessWencheng), and it is this image that givesthe Jokhang both its name and spiritual po-tency: Jokhang means chapel of the Jowoand the central golden Buddha here is themost revered in all of Tibet.

The two-storeyed Jokhang is best visit-ed in the morning, though the crowds of

yak-butter-spooning pilgrims can be thick.Access is possible in the afternoon througha side entrance but the interior chapels areoften shut and there are no pilgrims.

Potala Palace PALACE

) ;; Bdl Gng; Map p884; ad-mission Y100;h9.30am-3pm before 1 May, 9am-3.30pm after 1 May, interior chapels close 4.30pm)The magnicent Potala Palace, once the seatof the Tibetan government and the winterresidence of the Dalai Lamas, is Lhasas car-dinal landmark. Your rst sight of its tower-ing, fortress-like walls is a moment youllremember for a long time.

An architectural wonder even by mod-ern standards, the palace rises 13 storeysfrom 130m-high Marpo Ri (Red Hill) andcontains more than a thousand rooms.Pilgrims and tourists alike shue downthrough the three storeys, trying to take inthe magnicent chapels and prayer halls.

The rst recorded use of the site datesfrom the 7th century AD, when King Songt-sen Gampo built a palace here. Construc-tion of the present structure began duringthe reign of the fth Dalai Lama in 1645and took divisions of labourers and arti-sans more than 50 years to complete. It isimpressive enough to have caused Zhou

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Enlai to send his own troops to protect itfrom the Red Guards during the CulturalRevolution.

The layout of the Potala Palace includesthe rooftop White Palace (the easternpart of the building), used for the livingquarters of the Dalai Lama, and the centralRed Palace, used for religious functions.The most stunning chapels of the RedPalace house the jewel-bedecked goldenchrten (Tibetan stupa) tombs of severalprevious Dalai Lamas. The apartmentsof the 13th and 14th Dalai Lamas, in theWhite Palace, oer a more personal insightinto life in the palace. Grand aesthetics andhistory aside, however, one cant help no-ticing that today it is essentially an emptyshell, notably missing its main occupant,the Dalai Lama, and a cavernous memorialto what once was.

Visiting the Potala

Tickets for the Potala are limited. The daybefore you wish to visit, take your passportand head to the far southwest exit (yes, exit)and look for the ticket booth just insidethe gate. After showing your passport you

will receive a free ticket voucher with a timestamped on it.The next day, be at the south entrance

30 minutes before the time on the voucher(tour groups use the southeast entrance).After a security check, follow the other visit-ors to the stairs up into the palace. Halfwayup youll pass the actual ticket booth. Notethat if you arrive later than the time on yourvoucher (or if you forget your voucher) you

can be refused a ticket. Photography isntallowed inside the chapels.

Norbulingka SUMMER PALACE

( ; ; Lublnk; Minzu Lu;Map p884; admission Y60; h9am-6.30pm)About 3km west of the Potala Palace isthe Norbulingka, the former summer

residence of the Dalai Lama. The pleasantpark contains several palaces and chapels,the highlight of which is the New SummerPalace (Takten Migy Podrang), built bythe current (14th) Dalai Lama, but its notreally worth the entry fee.

FTibet Museum MUSEUM( ;; Xzng B-wgun; Map p884; Minzu Nanlu;h9am-6.30pm)

This museum has some interesting dis-plays, if you can lter out the Chinese pro-paganda. Starting with the prehistory ofTibet, the multiple halls cover everythingfrom weapons and musical instruments, tofolk handicrafts and ne ancient thangkas(Tibetan sacred art). Look for the 18th-century golden urn (exhibit No 310) used bythe Chinese to recognise their version ofthe Panchen Lama. A useful handheld au-

dio self-touring device is available for Y20.

2 ActivitiesRaft Tibet RAFTING, HORSE RIDING

(Map p888; %136 3890 0332; www.windhorsetibet.com; Zangyiyuan Lu) Tibet WindHorse Adventure oers half-/one-/two-day(Y600/760/1520) rafting trips between Juneand October, as well as day trips on horse-back (Y760).

z Festivals & EventsTibetan festivals are held according to theTibetan lunar calendar, which usually lagsat least a month behind the Wests Grego-rian calendar. The following is a brief selec-tion of Lhasas major festivals.

Losar Festival

Taking place in the rst week of the rstlunar month (February), there are perfor-

mances of Tibetan opera, prayer ceremoniesat the Jokhang and Nechung Monastery,and the streets are thronged with Tibetansdressed in their nest.

Saga Dawa

The 15th day (full moon) of the fourth lunarmonth (May/June) sees huge numbers of pil-grims walking the Lingkhor pilgrim circuit.

Lhasa

Top Sights

Barkhor.................................................D2

Norbulingka..........................................A2

Potala Palace .......................................C2

Tibet Museum......................................A2

Sights

1 Norbulingka Ticket Office...................A2

2 Potala South Entrance........................C2

3 Potala Ticket Booth.............................C2

Information

4 Nepali Consulate-General...................A2

Transport

5 CAAC & Buses to Airport....................C2

6 City Train Ticket Office .......................B27 Western (Main) Bus Station ...............A2


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Worship of the Buddha

During the second week of the fth lunarmonth (June), the parks of Lhasa, in par-

ticular the Norbulingka, are crowded withpicnickers.

Drepung Festival

The 30th day of the sixth lunar month(July) is celebrated with the hanging atdawn of a huge thangka at Drepung Mon-astery. Lamas and monks perform opera inthe main courtyard.

Shtun Festival

The rst week of the seventh lunar month(August) sees the unveiling of a giant thang-ka at Drepung Monastery, then movesdown to Sera and down to the Norbulingkafor performances oflhamo (Tibetan opera)and some epic picnics.

Palden Lhamo

The 15th day of the 10th lunar month (be-ing November) has a procession around theBarkhor circuit bearing Palden Lhamo, pro-

tective deity of the Jokhang Temple.

Tsongkhapa Festival

Much respect is shown to Tsongkhapa, thefounder of the Gelugpa order, on the anni-versary of his death on the 25th of the 10thlunar month (December). Check for proces-sions and monk dances at the monasteriesat Ganden, Sera and Drepung.

4 SleepingBackpacker hotels listed here have (lower-end) midrange rooms that are decent fora small budget-traveller splurge. Severalmore top-end hotels are planned to open inLhasa over the coming years.

Yak Hotel HOTEL $$

(; Y Bngun; Map p888;%630 0008; 100Beijing Donglu; dm Y30-40, d with bathroom Y450-650, VIP r Y880, discounts of 30-50%; ai)Once a backpacker favourite, the Yak isstill one of Lhasas most popular hotels, butits nowrmly midrange. Best bets are theTibetan-style back-block rooms (Y600), thelarger but noisier deluxe rooms overlookingthe street (Y650), or the plush VIP rooms(gubnlu), all discounted to between Y380

and Y450. Reservations are recommended.

oKyichu Hotel HOTEL $$(; Jq Fndin; Map p888;%633 1541; www.kyichuhotel.com; 149/18 BeijingDonglu; standard/deluxe r Y280/320; aWi)The recently renovated Kyichu is a well-runplace thats popular with repeat travellersto Tibet. Rooms are pleasant, with Tibet-an carpets, but the real selling points arethe excellent service and peaceful garden

courtyard (with wi- and espresso coee).Ask for a garden-view room at the back, asthese are the quietest. Reservations are rec-ommended. Credit cards accepted.

Rama Kharpo HOTEL $

(; Rm Gb Bngun; Map p888;%634 6963; www.lhasabarkhor.com; 5 OngtoShingka Lam; dm/r Y25/150; W) This easilymissed place is hidden deep in the old town

near the Muslim quarter. Both dorm and ensuite rooms are comfortable and the darkbut pleasant cafe is a great meeting place,serving beer, breakfasts and simple food.

oYabshi Phunkhang BOUTIQUE $$$(; Yox Pngkng; Map p888;%632 8885; www.yabshiphunkhang.com; BeijingDonglu; deluxe r/ste Y1000/1800, discounts of upto 60%;aW) Architectural integrity is rarein Lhasa these days, which makes the four-

year restoration of this mid-19th-centurymansion all the more impressive. The col-lection of 21 large, well-equipped roomslinked by lovely courtyards and sitting areasis both stylish and very Tibetan. Its a greatromantic top-end choice.

Dhood Gu Hotel HOTEL $$

(; Dng Bngun; Map p888; %6322555; www.dhodguhotel.com; 19 Shasarsu Lu;

LHASAS PILGRIM CIRCUITS

Lhasas four main koras (pilgrimcircuits) are well worth walking, espe-cially during the Saga Dawa festival,when the distinction between touristand pilgrim can become very ne. Re-

member always to proceed clockwise. Nangkhor Encircles the inner

precincts of the Jokhang.

Barkhor Traces the outskirts of theJokhang.

Lingkhor You can join the 8km-long circuit anywhere, but the mostinteresting section is from the south-eastern old town to the Potala Palace.

Potala Kora (Tsekhor) An almostcontinuous circuit of prayer wheels,chrtens (Tibetan stupas), rockpaintings and chapels encircles thePotala Palace.


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19; s/d/ste incl breakfastY280/300/520;i) Sta are a little cool atthis three-star Nepalese-run hotel, but theold-quarter location and ornate Tibetan-style decor are great. Head to the rooftopbar if your room lacks a view.

House of Shambhala BOUTIQUE $$$

(; Xingbl F; Map p888;%632 6533;www.shambhalaserai.com; 7 Jiri Erxiang;7; d incl breakfast Y675-1015;i) It can takea bit of hunting to locate Lhasas rst bou-tique hotel, but once you see the mustard-coloured exterior, and impressive woodendoors, youll know youre there. The hotels10 rooms sport a funky Tibetan design,with liberal use of wood, stone, silk, and an-tique furnishings. From the fabulous roof-

top terrace the views over the old quartercan really take you back in time. A 17-roomannexe, the Shambhala Palace, is hiddendeeper in the old town.

Barkhor Namchen House GUESTHOUSE $

(; Bku Lngqin JitngLgun; Map p888; %679 0125; www.tibetnamchen.com; dm Y25, s Y60-70, d Y70; i) Thissmall backstreet Tibetan-style guesthouseis a good budget choice. The old-town loca-

tion is near perfect, the sta are friendly,and the Asian-style bathrooms and com-munal hot showers are superclean. Roomsare fairly small and some have limitednatural light (ask for an upper-oor room),but you can head to the good rooftop res-taurant for ne views.

Gorkha Hotel HOTEL $$

(; GurkFndin; Map p888;%627

1992; [email protected]; 45 Linkuo Nan-lu; 45; tr without bathroom per bedY50-80, r/ste Y280/300;i) This atmosphericNepali-Tibetan venture housed the Nepaliconsulate in the 1950s and still boasts tra-ditional architecture. Rooms vary, so lookat a few (the suites are perfect for families).Its in the south of the old town, near sev-eral lovely old temples.

Snowland Hotel HOTEL $

(; Xuy Bngun; Map p888; %6323687; [email protected]; 4 ZangyiyuanLu/Mentsikhang Lam; 4; dm/dY20/60, d standard/deluxe with bathroomY100/150;i) Dont bother with the budgetrooms in this old-timer, but do take a lookat the slightly beaten-up en suite rooms; thedeluxe rooms are some of the best value intown. The location next to Barkhor Sq is

perfect. Check the water pressure and mat-tresses before committing.

5 EatingThe staple diet in Tibet is tsampa (porridgeof roasted barley our) and b cha (yak-butter tea). Tibetans mix the two in theirhands to create doughlike balls. Momos(dumplings lled with vegetables or yakmeat) and thugpa (noodles with meat) arealso local comfort food. Variations includethanthuk (fried noodle squares) as well asshemdre (rice, potato and yak-meat curry).

Lhasa is lled with restaurants servinga range of excellent Nepalese, Chinese, Ti-betan and Western dishes. Unless notedotherwise, the places listed here are openfor breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Tashi I WESTERN $

(Map p888; cnr Zangyiyuan Lu & Beijing Don-glu; dishes Y10-25; h8am-10pm; E) This oldstandard feels like a slice of old Tibet andis a mellow place to hang out. Try the bobi(chapatti-like unleavened bread), whichcomes with seasoned cream cheese andfried vegetables or meat.

oNew Mandala Restaurant NEPALI $$

(; Xnmnzhi Cntng; Mapp888; Zangyiyuan Lu; dishes Y20-35; E) Excel-lent views over the Barkhor. The Nepali setmeals are excellent and its a great place topeople watch over a cold beer. The menu isthe standard mix of Western, Nepali andChinese food.

Snowland Restaurant WESTERN $$

(; Xuy Cntng; Map p888; Zangy-

iyuan Lu; dishes Y25-40; h8am-10pm; E) At-tached to the Snowland Hotel, this well-runrestaurant serves a mix of excellent Conti-nental and Nepali food in very civilised sur-roundings. The Indian dishes are particu-larly good and the cakes (discounted after9pm) are easily the best in town. Try thegourmet-quality yak cheese.

UNDER PRESSURE

If you y into Lhasa, take care whenreopening things such as tubes ofsunscreen or even jars of Coee-matefrom a local shop, as the change inpressure can cause messy explosionsof volcanic proportions.


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Woeser Zedroe Tibetan Restaurant TIBETAN $

(; Gungmng Zzhu Zngcn-gun; Map p888; Zangyiyuan Lu; mains Y6-28;hlunch & dinner; E) This is where visitingand local Tibetans come to ll up after avisit to the Jokhang. Add some pleasanttraditional seating and a perfect locationto the Tibetan vibe and its a logical lunchstop. The momos are recommended, espe-

cially the fried yak meat or cheese varieties.Pentoc Tibetan Restaurant TIBETAN $

(Map p888; dishes Y10-15; E) For somethingmore authentically Tibetan, charmingEnglish-speaking Pentoc runs this localteahouse restaurant after working in TashiI for many years. Its a good place to tryhomemade Tibetan standards, such as mo-mos, thugpa, shemdre (rice, potato and yakmeat), plus butter tea, chang(barley beer)

and even dal bhat (lentils and rice). Its20m down an alleyway oBeijing Donglu,on the left.

Nam-tso Restaurant WESTERN $(Map p888; 8 Beijing Donglu; mains Y20-30, setbreakfasts Y27;E) Alfresco dining underthe Tibetan stars is possible on the roof-top of the Banak Shol hotel. And the siz-zlers, yak burgers and Western breakfastsserved here are worth every kui.

Dunya Restaurant WESTERN $$(Map p888;%633 3374; www.dunyarestaurant.com; 100 Beijing Donglu; dishes Y30-65;E)With its classy decor, wide-ranging dishesand interesting specials, this foreign-runeatery is popular with travellers whoneed something reassuringly familiar.

6 DrinkingTibetans consume large quantities ofchang

(a tangy alcoholic drink derived from fer-mented barley) and b cha. The other majorbeverage is cha ngamo (sweet milky tea).Hole-in-the-wall Tibetan teahouses can befound all over the old town.

Ani Sangkhung Nunnery Teahouse

TEAHOUSE

(Map p888; 29 Linkuo Nanlu; tea Y2-8; h8am-5pm) If youre exploring the old town andneed a break, make a beeline for this bust-

ling teahouse in the courtyard of Lhasasmost important (and most politically ac-tive) nunnery. The nuns do a great job andthe location is superb.

Summit Caf CAFE(; Dngfng Kfidin; Map p888;coffees Y15-25;h7.30am-11pm;iWE) OffZangyiyuan Lu, the courtyard of theShangbala Hotel is the place to head for

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Lhasas best espresso hit. Theres cosyseating, wi-fi, excellent coffee and greatdeserts.

Dunya Bar BAR(Map p888; www.dunyarestaurant.com; 100 Bei-jing Donglu; bottled beers Y15;hnoon-midnight;E) This classy bar above the restaurantof the same name has a nice balcony andscreens major sports events.

7 ShoppingWhether its prayer wheels, thangkas, sun-hats or imported muesli, you shouldnt have

a problem nding it in Lhasa. The Barkhorcircuit is especially good for buying sou-venirs. Most of this stu is mass-producedin Nepal. Haggle, haggle, haggle.

Lhasa Villages Handicrafts HANDICRAFTS

(Map p888; %633 0898; www.tibetcraft.com;11 Chaktsal Ganglu; h10am-7pm) A wanderthrough the Tibetan old town leads to thisexcellent shop established to bolster localhandicrafts in the face of rising Nepali andChinese imports. Quality and prices are topend, and you can watch local craftspeopleat work in the courtyard. The shop (former-ly known as Dropenling) is a little tricky tond, but as you get nearer youll see signspointing the way. Ask about the two-hourwalking tours of old-town craft workshops.

Outlook Outdoor Equipment OUTDOOR GEAR(Kn Fngyn Binhun Yunjng; Map p888;

%634 5589; 11 Beijing Donglu) The best ofmany local shops selling Chinese-madeGore-Tex jackets, fleeces, sleeping bags,

stoves, tents and mats, and it also rentsout equipment.

8 InformationInternet Access

The most popular internet cafes (; wngb;per hr Y3-5) are at the Yak and Snowland hotels.If you have a laptop, the Summit Caf and RamaKharpo and Yabshi Phunkhang hotels oer freewi-.

Medical ServicesMilitary Hospital (; XzngJnq Zngyyun;%625 3120; Niangre Beilu)Near the Sera Monastery.

Money

Bank of China (; Zhnggu Ynhng;Map p884; Linkuo Xilu;h9am-1pm & 3.30-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 10.30am-4pm Sat & Sun)Offers credit-card advances, bank transfers

and foreign exchange, plus a 24-hour ATM.Bank of China (branch) (; ZhngguYnhng; Map p888; Beijing Donglu;h10am-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 11am-3.30pm Sat & Sun) Themost conveniently located bank changes cashand travellers cheques, and has an ATM. Itsbetween the Banak Shol and Kirey hotels.

China Construction Bank ATM (; Zhnggu Jinsh Ynhng; Map p888;

Barkhor Area

Top Sights Eating

Barkhor Kora.......................................... C2 12 Dunya Restaurant .................................. B1

Jokhang Temple .................................... B2 13 Nam-tso Restaurant ..............................D1

Lingkhor Kora ........................................ A3 14 New Mandala Restaurant......................A2

15 Pentoc Tibetan Restaurant................... B1

Activities, Courses & Tours 16 Snowland Restaurant ............................B21 Raft Tibet (Tibet Wind Horse 17 Tashi I...................................................... B1

Adventure) .......................................... A2 18 Woeser Zedroe Tibetan

Restaurant ...........................................A2

Sleeping

2 Barkhor Namchen House ..................... C2 Drinking

3 Dhood Gu Hotel ......................................B1 19 Ani Sangkhung Nunnery

4 Gorkha Hotel.......................................... B3 Teahouse .............................................C3

5 House of Shambhala..............................C1 Dunya Bar ......................................(see 12)

6 Kyichu Hotel............................................A1 20 Summit Caf...........................................A2

7 Rama Kharpo ......................................... D38 Shambhala Palace................................. D2 Shopping

9 Snowland Hotel...................................... B2 21 Lhasa Villages Handicrafts....................D3

10 Yabshi Phunkhang..................................B1 22 Outlook Outdoor

11 Yak Hotel .................................................B1 Equipment ........................................... C1


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Zangyiyuan Lu) Conveniently located 24-hourATM next to the Snowland Hotel.

Post

China Post (; Zhnggu Yuzhng;Map p884; Beijing Donglu;h9am-8pm Mon-Sat, 10am-6pm Sun) Buy stamps from thecounter in the far-left corner. Its east of the

Potala Palace.

Public Security Bureau

Lhasa City PSB (; Ls ShGngnj; Map p884;%624 8154; 17 LinkuoBeilu;h9am-12.30pm & 3.30-6pm Mon-Fri)Visa extensions of up to a week are given, butonly a day or two before your visa expires andonly if you are on a tour. Other offices are notinterested in seeing you.

TelephoneSeveral private phone booths on ZangyiyuanLu and Beijing Donglu oer cheap internationalcalls. Look for the Telephone Supermarket (; Guj Gnghu Chosh) signs.

Travel Agencies

See the boxed text, p883 for a list of agencies inLhasa that can arrange your tour and TTB (TibetTourism Bureau) permit.

8 Getting There & AwayAir

Its generally possible to buy ights to Lhasaonline on sites such as www.expedia.com, www.ctrip.com and www.elong.net. If buying in per-son, you will need to show your TTB permit; AirChina wont sell you a ticket without a permit.

Leaving Lhasa is a lot simpler, as tickets canbe purchased (and changed) without hasslefrom the Civil Aviation Administration of

China (CAAC;; Zhnggu Mnhng;Map p884;%633 3446; 1 Niangre Lu;h9am-6.30pm). Flight connections continue to allmajor destinations in China and even HongKong. Note that tickets are often discounted byup to 30%.

Flights to/from Lhasa include the followingdestinations:

Ali Y2500, two weekly

Bijng (via Chngd) Y2520, seven weekly

Chngd Y1590, 60 to 70 weeklyChngqng Y1720, seven weekly

Gungzhu (via Chngqng) Y2590, two weekly

Kathmandu Y2970 (US$379 from Kathmandu),three to four weekly

Knmng (via Zhngdin), Y2050, seven weekly

Shnghi Pdng (via Xn), Y2850, twoweekly

Xn Y1740, four weekly

Zhngdin Y1470, seven weekly (summer only)

Bus

Tickets for the sleeper buses from Lhasa toGolmud (Y220, 24 hours) can be bought at thelong-distance bus station (Map p884). Mostsane people will take the train or y out.

Destinations around Tibet are a little trickier,

as foreigners are currently not allowed to travelby public transport. Should this change, thereare buses from the long-distance station toShigatse, Gyantse and beyond.

Train

The QnghiTibet Railway has been theworlds highest train ride since starting opera-tions in 2006. With the line topping the 5072mTanggu-la Pass, and with 80% of the Golmud toLhasa stretch being over 4000m, the railway is

one impressive piece of engineering. Its 160kmof bridges and elevated track were built overpermafrost, so sections of cooling pipes hadto be inserted in places to help keep the boggyground frozen in summer. The cost? A coolUS$4.1 billion, and with planned extensionsto Shigatse currently under construction, thisgure is set to grow.

The Chinese are rightfully swollen with prideover this engineering marvel, while the Tibetansarent quite so sure. The railway will bring cheap-er (Chinese-made) goods and greater economicgrowth, but it will also increase Han migration,delivering one million passengers to Lhasa everyyear. What the line does best is staple Tibet evermore rmly to the rest of China.

At the time of writing, foreign travellersneeded a copy of their TTB permit in order tobuy a train ticket and board the train to Lhasa.On board all passengers have access to piped-inoxygen through a special socket located next

to each seat or berth. Additional oxygen is alsopumped into compartments between Golmudand Lhasa, although the cabins are not actuallypressurised.

Soft-sleeper berths come with individualTVs, and speakers in each cabin make periodictravel announcements in Chinese and Englishabout the train, its construction and sightsalong the way. Other than these additions,the trains are similar to most others in China,though schedules are at least designed so as to

let you take in the best scenery during daylighthours.

You can buy train tickets up to 10 days in ad-vance at the Lhasa train station ticket oce(h7am-10pm), at the train station on the south-west edge of town, or the more centrally locatedcity ticket oce (; HuchpioDishuch; Map p884; Deji Beilu;h9-11.30am& 1-5pm). Trains to Lhasa arrive in the evening;trains from Lhasa depart between 7.30am and1.30pm.


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A luxury joint-venture train, the TangulaExpress, is planned but currently on hold. If ithappens, you can expect glass observation cars,dining by Kempinski, luxury cabins with showersand a tari of around US$1000 a day.

Trains to Lhasa, and fares (hard seat/hardsleeper/soft sleeper; sleeper fares are for lowerberths):

From Bijng West (T27), Y389/813/1262, 48hours, one daily (9.30pm)

From Chngd (T22/23), Y331/712/1104, 48hours, one daily (6.18pm)

From Chngqng (T222/3), Y355/754/1168,48 hours, one every other day (7.20pm)

From Gungzhu (T264/5), Y451/923/1530,58 hours, one every other day (1.07pm)

From Lnzhu (K917), Y242/552/854, 30hours, one every other day (4.45pm)

From Shnghi (T164/5), Y406/845/1314, 52hours, one every other day (4.11pm)

From Xnng (K917), Y226/523/810, 27 hours,one daily (4.45pm)

8 Getting AroundTo/From the Airport

Gongkar airport is 65km from Lhasa. Most tour-ists are picked up by their guide as part of their

tour.Airport buses (Y25, 75 minutes) leave up to 10times a day between 7.30am and 1.30pm fromthe courtyard in front of the CAAC building.Tickets are sold on the bus, so show up earlyto guarantee a seat. Buses greet all incomingights.

A taxi to the airport costs between Y150 andY200.

Bicycle

A good option for getting around Lhasa once youhave acclimatised is to hire a bike. There are acouple of bike-rental places opposite the BanakShol hotel, or you can hire quality mountain bikesfrom Thaizand Bicycle Tours (Map p888;%6910898; [email protected]; Kirey Hotel, 105Beijing Donglu) for Y40 to Y80 per day, with ahelmet and pads.

Minibus

Privately run minibuses (Y2) travel frequently

between Beijing Donglu and western Lhasa.

Taxi

Taxis charge a standard fare of Y10 to anywherewithin the city. Few Chinese drivers know theTibetan names for even the major sites. Bicycle-rickshaws should charge around Y5 for shorttrips but require endless haggling.

Around LhasaDREPUNG MONASTERY A preternaturally spiritual 1-hour-longkora around this 15th-centurymonastery(Zhbng S; admission Y50;h9.30am-5.30pm),8km west of Lhasa, is among the highlightsof a trip to Tibet. Along with Sera and Gan-den Monasteries, Drepung functioned asone of the three pillars of the Tibetan stateand this one was purportedly the largestmonastery in the world, with around 7000resident monks at its peak. Drepung meansrice heap, a reference to the white buildingsdotting the hillside.

The kings of Tsang and the Mongols sav-aged the place regularly, though, oddly, the

Red Guards pretty much left it alone duringthe Cultural Revolution. With concerted re-building, this monastic village once againresembles its proud former self and around600 monks reside here. At lunchtime youcan see the novices bringing in bucketsof tsampa and yak-butter tea. In the af-ternoons you can often see Tibetan-stylereligious debating (lots of hand slappingand gesticulating). The best way to visit the

monastery is to follow the pilgrim groupsor the yellow signs.

Nearby Nechung Monastery (admissionY10;h8.30am-5pm), a 10-minute walk down-hill, was once the home of the Tibetan stateoracle and is worth a visit.

Minibus Nos 301, 302 and 303 (Y2) runfrom Beijing Donglu to the foot of the Dre-pung hill, from where a coach (Y1) runs upto the monastery. A taxi from the Barkhor

area is Y30. There is a Y10 to Y20 charge perchapel for photography.

SERA MONASTERY About 5km north of Lhasa, this monastery(SlS; admission Y55;h9am-5pm) was found-ed in 1419 by a disciple of Tsongkhapa andwas, along with Drepung Monastery, one ofLhasas two great Gelugpa monasteries.

About 600 monks are now in residence,well down from an original population ofaround 5000. The half-dozen main col-leges feature spectacular prayer halls andchapels. Equally interesting is the monkdebating that takes place from 3.30pm to5pm in a garden next to the assembly hall inthe centre of the monastery. As at Drepung,theres a ne hour-long kora path aroundthe exterior of the monastery.


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Minibus 503 (Y2) runs to Sera from Du-osenge Lu, or its a 30-minute bicycle ridefrom central Lhasa. There is a Y15 to Y30

fee per chapel for photography, and itsY850 for video.From Sera Monastery its possible to take

a taxi or walk northwest for another hour tolittle-visited Pabonka Monastery. Built inthe 7th century by King Songtsen Gampo,this is one of the most ancient Buddhistsites in the Lhasa region.

GANDEN MONASTERY About 40km east of Lhasa, this monas-tery (Gndn S; admission Y45; hdawn-dusk),founded in 1417 by Tsongkhapa, was the rstGelugpa monastery. Still the orders heartand soul, its the one out-of-Lhasa sight tochoose if your time is limited. Two koras of-fer astounding views over the braided Kyi-chu Valley and youll probably meet morepilgrims here than anywhere else.

Some 400 monks have returned and ex-

tensive reconstruction has been under wayfor some time now, alongside a strong po-lice presence. There is a Y20 fee per chapelfor photography; Y1500 for video.

Pilgrim buses leave for Ganden Monas-tery (Y25 return) between 6am and 7amfrom Barkhor Sq, returning around 1.30pm.Tourists can sometimes take the bus if theirguide accompanies them; otherwise 4WDhire costs around Y400.

NAM-TSO The waters of sacred Nam-tso (Nmcu;adult Y120), the second-largest salt lake in

China, are an almost transcendent tur-quoise blue and shimmer in the rareedair of 4730m. Geographically part of theChangtang Plateau, the lake is bordered tothe north by the Tangl Shn range andto the southeast by 7111m Nyenchen Tan-glha peak.

The scenery is breathtaking but so isthe altitude: 1100m higher than Lhasa. Donot rush here but instead count on a week

in Lhasa at the minimum to avoid acutemountain sickness (AMS); see p1013.

Most travellers head for Tashi Do Mon-astery in the southeastern corner of thelake. There are some ne walks in thearea, as well as a short but pilgrim-packedkora. Half a dozen charmless metalguest-houses (dm Y30-50, r Y120-160) oer foodand accommodation around the monasterybetween April and October, though the site

is starting to seriously suer from overvisi-tation. Bedding is provided but nights herecan be very cold.

Nam-tso is 195km north of Lhasa, a four-hour paved drive over the high (5190m)Largen-la. Even if independent travel re-turns, there is no public transport to thelake.

VISITING MONASTERIES & TEMPLES

Most monasteries and temples extend a warm welcome to foreign guests, and in re-mote areas will often oer a place to stay for the night, depending on government travelrestrictions. Please maintain this good faith by observing the following courtesies:

Always circumambulate monasteries, chapels and other religious objects clock-wise, thus keeping shrines and chrtens (Tibetan stupas) to your right.

Dont touch or remove anything on an altar and dont take prayer flags or mani(prayer) stones.

Dont take photos during a prayer meeting. At other times always ask permis-sion to take a photo, especially when using a flash. The larger monasteries chargephotography fees, though some monks will allow you to take a quick photo for free.If they wont, theres no point getting angry you dont know what pressures theymay be under.

Dont wear shorts or short skirts in a monastery, and take your hat off when yougo into a chapel.

Dont smoke in a monastery. If you have a guide, try to ensure that he or she is Tibetan, as Chinese guides

invariably know little about Tibetan Buddhism or monastery history.

Be aware that women are generally not allowed in protector chapels (gnkhang).


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SAMYE MONASTERY

About 170km southeast of Lhasa, on thenorth bank of the Yarlung Tsangpo (Brah-maputra) River is Samye Monastery(Sngy S; admission Y40; h8am-5.30pm),the rst monastery in Tibet. Founded in

AD 775 by King Trisong Detsen, Samye isfamed not just for its pivotal history, but itsunique mandala design: the main hall, ortse, represents Mt Meru, the centre of theuniverse, while the outer temples representthe oceans, continents, subcontinents andother features of the Buddhist cosmology.

Simple accommodation is available atthe Monastery Guesthouse (%0891-7836666; dm Y50, d with bathroom Y150), outside

the monastery walls and with the bestdoubles in town. The monastery restaurantserves mediocre momos with lots of localatmosphere. The Friendship SnowlandRestaurant (%136-1893 2819; meals Y14-40;h8am-midnight), outside the east gate, servesbetter Chinese and Tibetan dishes, bananapancakes and milky tea. Dorm rooms (Y30)with real mattresses (not foam) are availableupstairs. There are several other decent ac-

commodation options nearby, including thefriendlyDawa Guesthouse(;Dw Jitng Lgun;%799 5171; dm Y30).

If you are heading to Everest Base Campor the Nepal border, a visit here will onlyadd one day to your itinerary. If the ruleson independent travel relax, you may be ableto catch the daily pilgrim minibus in themorning from Barkhor Sq in Lhasa.

You may have to detour briey to the near-

by town of Tsetang (; Zdng) for yourguide to pick up a required travel permit.

The Friendship HighwayThe 865km route between Kathmandu andLhasa, known as the Friendship Highway,oers without a doubt one of the worldsgreat overland routes. At times sublime,at times unnerving, at times nauseating

(the highest point is the Gyatso-la Pass at5100m), its the yellow-brick road of Tibet,leading to some of the most magical destina-tions on the plateau.

For the sake of simplicity, weve includ-ed the side route from Lhasa to Shigatsevia Yamdrok-tso and Gyantse under theFriendship Highway heading. This is theroute most travellers take between the twotowns and its by far the more scenic and

attraction-packed.

YAMDROK-TSO

On the direct road between Gyantse andLhasa, youll probably catch your rst sightof coiling Yamdrok-tso (Yngzhu Yngcu;4488m) from the summit of the Kamba-lapass (4794m). The lake lies several hundredmetres below the road, and in clear weather

is a fabulous shade of deep turquoise. Far inthe northwest distance is the huge massif ofMt Nojin Kangtsang (7191m).

The small town ofNangartse along theway has some basic accommodation andseveral restaurants but most people over-night in Gyantse. A 20-minute drive or atwo-hour walk from Nangartse brings youto Samding Monastery (admission Y20), acharming place with scenic views of the

surrounding area and lake.

GANDEN TO SAMYE TREK

One of the most popular but not the easiest treks in Tibet is the four- to ve-dayhike from Ganden Monastery to Samye Monastery, an 80km wilderness walk connect-ing two of Tibets most important monasteries. It begins less than 50km from Lhasaand takes you over the high passes of the Shuga-la (5250m) and Chitu-la (5100m).Along the way are subalpine lakes, dwarf forests and meadows, all at high altitude, soit shouldnt be underestimated.

Obviously, know before you go: this means the land and the capabilities of yourmind and body. The situation for getting permits for trekking is the same as for normaltravel in Tibet (see boxed text, p883). Some agencies will let you arrange your own adhoc trek (ie horse hire and food), as long as you take a guide and arrange transportto and from the trailheads; others require a fully supported trek. Tibet Wind HorseAdventure(%0891-683 3009; www.windhorsetibet.com; Zangyiyuan Lu, Lhasa) is one ofthe most professional trekking agencies in Lhasa, though its not the cheapest. Forfurther details, see the trekking chapter of Lonely PlanetsTibet guide.


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From Nangartse to Gyantse you cross the

4960m Karo-la, site of the highest battlein British imperial history in 19031904,where glaciers spill othe side peaks besidea popular viewpoint.

GYANTSE %0892 / ELEV 3980M

The traditional town of Gyantse (Jingz)is famed for its monumental nine-tieredchrten, long considered one of Tibets

architectural wonders. Historically, thetown was at the centre of a thriving trans-Himalayan wood and wool trade, and Gyan-tse carpets were considered the best in Ti-bet. These days, Gyantse remains one of theleast Chinese-inuenced settlements, andwandering the backstreets aords a rarepicture of traditional urban Tibetan life.

1 Sights & ActivitiesIn the fourth lunar month (early June to

mid-July) the town hosts a great horse-racing andarchery festival.

Pelkhor Chde Monastery MONASTERY

(; Bijs; admission Y40; h9am-6pm,some chapels closed 1-3pm) The high red-walled compound of this monastery,founded in 1418, once encircled 15 monas-teries from three dierent orders of TibetanBuddhism. The surviving assembly hall

(straight ahead as you enter the compound)is worth a lingering visit for thene murals,statues and butter-lamp-lit atmosphere.Just beside the assembly hall is the Gyan-tse Kumbum.

Gyantse Dzong FORT

(Old Fort;%817 2116; admission Y40;h8.30am-8.30pm) Gyantse Dzong towers aboveGyantse on a nlike outcrop, and hasoutstanding views of the Pelkhor Chde

Monastery and surrounding valley. Thefort was taken by the British in 1904 dur-ing their invasion of Tibet. Entry is viathe gate north of the main intersection, ordrive up from the back side.

4 SleepingGyantse is a popular stop for 4WD tours

and has a decent range of accommodationand food along northsouth YingxiongNanlu.

Jinzng Hotel HOTEL $$

(; Jinzng Fndin; Yingxiong Nanlu;;%817 3720; tr per bed Y50, d Y180-200)Long a popular place with 4WD groups,the smallish but modern rooms come withbathroom and 24-hour hot water. Prices

start high but are open to negotiation. The2nd-oor restaurant is a decent option forbreakfast or a cup of tea. The manager fea-tured in the recent BBC documentary AYear in Tibet.

Zngshn Hotel HOTEL $$

(; Zngshn Fndin; %817 5555; 1Weiguo Lu; d incl breakfast Y520, discounts of50-70%;i) With 24-hour hot water, cleanWestern-style rooms and discounted rates

of Y140 to Y160 a room, this is a solid-valuemidrange option. A top-oor restaurant(dishes Y15 to Y40) oers almost 360-degree views of Gyantse.

Wutse Hotel HOTEL $$(; WzFndin;%817 2909; YingxiongNanlu) This popular place was undergoingrenovations at the time of research but isworth a look.

5 EatingYak Restaurant WESTERN, TIBETAN $$(; Y Mish Cntng; Yingxiong Nanlu;mains Y15-35;h7am-11pm;E) The Yak oersbackpacker treats such as French toast(Y15), pizza, yak burgers, sizzlers (dishesserved on a hot, sizzling plate) and Westernbreakfasts. The owner prides herself on herFrench cuisine, so have a go at the yak-liverpat or yak bourguignon.

Tashi Restaurant INDIAN, WESTERN $$

(; ZhxCntng; Yingxiong Nanlu; mainsY15-40; h7.30am-11pm; E) This Nepali-runplace (a branch of Tashi in Shigatse) whipsup tasty and lling Indian fare. It also hasthe usual range of Western breakfasts, Ital-ian and Chinese food. The decor is Tibetanbut the Indian movies and Nepali musicgive it a subcontinental vibe.

GYANTSE KUMBUM

The one unmissable sight in Gyantse,the spectacular Gyantse Kumbum(literally 100,000 Images Stupa) isthe largest chrten (Tibetan stupa)

in Tibet. A pilgrim path spirals up theinside of the monumental nine-tieredstructure, built in the 15th century bya local prince, passing 108 chapels,each lled with masterful originalmurals. Bring a torch (ashlight) if youwant to examine them in detail.


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Gyantse Kitchen

TIBETAN, INTERNATIONAL $$

(; Jingz Chfng; Shanghai Zhonglu;dishes Y15-40;h7am-midnight;E) This local fa-vourite serves Western, Tibetan and Indianfood, plus unique fusion dishes such as yakpizza. The friendly owner, who may join youfor a drink, donates a portion of his incometo support poor families in Gyantse.

8 Getting There & AwayMost people visit Gyantse as part of a trip to theNepal border, Mt Everest, or out west to Mt Kai-lash. Should the permit situation change, thereare plenty of minibuses (1 hours) and taxis(one hour) for the 90km trip between Shigatseand Gyantse.

SHIGATSE %0892 / POP 80,000 / ELEV 3840MShigatse (Rkz) is the second-largest cityin Tibet, and like Lhasa has two distinctfaces: a Tibetan one and a Chinese one.The Tibetan section, running northeast ofthe high-walled Tashilhunpo Monastery, islled with whitewashed compounds, dustyalleys and prayer-wheel-spinning pilgrims.The Chinese section is thoroughly mod-

ern and is where youll nd most restau-rants and hotels and other life-supportsystems.

History

As the traditional capital of the centralTsang region, Shigatse was long a rivalwith Lhasa for political control of the coun-try. The Tsang kings and later governorsexercised their power from the imposingheights of the (recently rebuilt) Shigatse

Dzong. Since the time of the Mongol spon-sorship of the Gelugpa order, Shigatse hasbeen the seat of the Panchen Lamas, thesecond-highest-ranking lamas in Tibet.Their centre was and remains the Tashil-hunpo Monastery.

1 SightsTashilhunpo Monastery MONASTERY

)

;; Zhshlnb S;

admission Y55;h9am-7pm summer, 10am-noon& 3.30-6pm winter) The seat of the PanchenLama and one of Tibetan cultures sixgreat Gelugpa institutions (along withDrepung, Sera and Ganden monasteries inLhasa; as well as Kumbum and Labrangin Qnghi and Gns provinces, respec-tively). Built in 1447 by a nephew of Tsong-khapa, the monastery is the size of a small

village, and lends itself to a half-day ormore of exploration and discovery.

In addition to the mesmerising statue ofJampa (Maitreya) Buddha (at nearly 27mhigh its the largest gilded statue in theworld) in the Temple of the Maitreya, themonastery is famed for the opulent tombsof the fourth and 10th Panchen Lamas.The former saw 85kg of gold and massesof jewels used in its construction. Despitethe spectacle, some travellers dont like theatmosphere at Tashilhunpo, conjecturingthat some of the monks are in cahoots withthe authorities.

A delightful hour-long kora starts atthe southwest corner of the outer wall andquickly heads into the hills for open viewsover the monastery and city. The Potala-likestructure to the east is the rebuilt ShigatseDzong (fortress). Its currently empty but amuseum/gallery is planned.

4 SleepingShigatse has a good range of hotels, mostoering rooms with private bathroom(with hot shower).

Gang Gyan Shigatse Orchard Hotel

HOTEL $$

(; Rkz Gngjin Bngun;%882 0777; 77 Zhufeng Lu; tr without bathroomY188, d with bathroom Y368, discounts of 60%)Right next to the traditional-carpet factoryand just 100m from Tashilhunpo Monas-tery, the location here cant be beat. Roomsare large and comfortably furnished. Theshared bathrooms are clean but the showerwater supply is iy, a problem the roomswith private bathrooms dont share.

Tenzin Hotel HOTEL $$

(; Dnzng Bngan; %882 2018; 8Bangjiakong Lu;8; dm Y40, d/tr with-out bathroom Y180/120, d with bathroom Y220,discounts of 30%) This place has long beenpopular with both 4WD tours and budgettravellers. Its a bit noisy on the lower oorsbut the clean rooms, old-town location andviews from the roof more than make up for

this. The shared bathrooms usually have24-hour hot water. The restaurant (dishesY15 to Y35) serves up pretty tasty Tibetan,Chinese and Nepalese fare when the chef isin residence.

5 EatingThere are dozens of Chinese restaurantsaround town, and a number of Tibetanplaces along Qingdao Lu.


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Songtsen Tibetan Restaurant

INTERNATIONAL $$

(; S

ngzn Xzng C

ntng; Bux-ing Jie; dishes Y20-40; h8am-10pm;E) This

popular Western-style place does heartybreakfasts. It has a great location on thepedestrian-only street, oering views of thepilgrims ambling past as you dine on goodIndian, Nepalese, Tibetan or Western fare.

Third Eye Restaurant NEPALI $$(Zhufeng Lu; dishes Y10-30;h7.30am-10.30pm;E) Theres a great ambience

inside this Nepali-run place, with monkssipping butter tea under thangkas, astravellers tuck into spicy Indian dishes.

Gongkar Tibetan Restaurant TIBETAN $(; Gngg Shn MiwiZngcntng; Xueqiang Lu; dishes Y10-20;E)This popular local hang-out featuresthestandard momos and noodle dishes, inaddition to some easy-to-resist dishessuch as yak-tongue soup.

7 ShoppingThe Tibetan market in front of the Tenzin

Hotel is a good place to pick up souvenirssuch as prayer wheels, rosaries and thang-kas. There are also dozens of souvenir andcraft shops along Qingdao Lu. Bargain hard.

Tibet Gang Gyen Carpet Factory CARPETS

(; Xzng Gngjin Dtn Chng;www.tibetgang-gyencarpet.com; 9 Zhufeng Lu;h9am-1pm & 3-7pm) This TibetanFrenchjoint venture hires and trains impoverishedwomen to weave high-quality 100% Tibetan

wool carpets. You can watch carpets beingmade on the premises and the factory willship internationally. The entrance is just eastof the Gang Gyan Shigatse Orchard Hotel.

8 InformationThe cheapest places to make calls are the manyprivate telephone booths around town.

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10am-5pm Sat & Sun) Changes travellers

cheques and cash and gives credit-card ad-vances. Theres a 24-hour ATM outside.

China Post (; Zhnggu Yuzhng; cnrShandong Lu & Zhufeng Lu;h9am-6.30pm)

China Telecom (; Zhnggu Dinxn;Zhufeng Lu;h9am-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 9.30am-6.30pm Sat & Sun) Phone calls and fax service,with an internet cafe (wngb) above.

Public Security Bureau (PSB;;Gngnj; Qingdao Lu;h9.30am-12.30pm &

3.30-6.30pm Mon-Fri) Group travellers headedto Western Tibet may have to wait for theirguide to pick up a travel permit here.

Tin L Internet Bar (; TinlWngb; Shandong Lu; per hr Y5;h24hr) Goodconnection speeds and window seats for thosewho need a little fresh air.

8 Getting There & AroundCurrently all foreigners have to prearrangetransport as part of their tour. If this changes,

minibuses (six to seven hours) and shared taxis(ve hours) leave for Lhasa from a stand onQingdao Lu on the eastern side of Shigatse.Minivans and taxis to Gyantse run when full fromoutside the main bus station and there are alsobuses to Saga, Sakya, Lhatse and various otherpoints down the Friendship Highway.

A taxi anywhere in Shigatse costs Y10.

Shigatses Peace Airport, 50km east of thecity, is due to open in 2011.

SAKYA %0892 / ELEV 4280M

In the 13th century, the monastic town ofSakya (Sji) emerged as an importantcentre of scholarship. With Mongol militarysupport, the Sakya lamas became rulers ofall Tibet. Their rule was short-lived, but

Sakya remained a powerful municipality.Even today the local colouring of build-ings ash grey with red and white verticalstripes symbolises both the Rigsum Gon-po (the trinity of Bodhisattvas) and Sakyaauthority.

1 SightsSakya Monastery MONASTERY

(admission Y45; h9am-6pm) The southernsection of the Sakya Monastery, built in1268, is a massive fortresslike compound,with high defensive walls. Inside, thedimly lit assembly hall exudes a sanctityfew others can rival. The northern sectionof the monastery, on the other side of theTrum-chu (Trum River) has been mostlyreduced to picturesque ruins, though res-toration work is ongoing and its worthsome exploration.

4 Sleeping & EatingManasarovar Sakya Hotel HOTEL $$(; Shnh Sji Bngun; %8242222; Gesang Zhonglu; dm Y20-30, d/trY280/380, discounts of 20-30%) There is a mixof rooms in this rambling hotel; the onesthat overlook the road are probably best.The thick walls keep the place cold anddark but rooms are comfortable enoughand some have en suite hot showers. The

eight-bed dorm rooms are OK; one includesa bathroom. There are superb views fromthe hotels rooftop and good Western dishesin the rather charmless restaurant.

Sakya Lowa Family Hotel GUESTHOUSE $

(; Sji Zhn Lw JitngLgun; %824 2156; Baogang Beilu; per personY50) The Lowa is a family-run guesthousewith basic but clean rooms. Walls arebrightly painted and accented with trad-itional motifs, but there are no showers. Itseast of the Manasarovar Sakya Hotel.

Sakya Monastery Restaurant TIBETAN FOOD $(; Sji S Cntng; dishes Y7-15)This restaurant is owned by the monas-tery and serves up fried rice, thugpa andsteaming glasses ofcha ngamo.

Shigatse

Top Sights

Tashilhunpo Monastery ......................B3

Sights

1 Chrten ................................................A3

2 Festival Thangka Wall .........................A2

3 Mani Lhakhang .................................... C1

4 Mosque.................................................C2

5 Shigatse Dzong.................................... B1

Sleeping

6 Gang Gyan Shigatse Orchard

Hotel ..................................................B3

7 Tenzin Hotel......................................... C1

Eating

8 Gongkar Tibetan Restaurant..............C29 Songtsen Tibetan Restaurant ............B3

Tenzin Restaurant........................(see 7)

10 Third Eye Restaurant ..........................B3

Shopping

11 Tibet Gang Gyen Carpet Factory .......B3

12 Tibetan Market .................................... C1


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8 Getting There & AwaySakya is 25km o the Friendship Highway. Mostpeople stay overnight at Sakya en route to theEverest region. There is one daily minibus be-tween Shigatse and Sakya.

RONGPHU MONASTERY& EVEREST BASE CAMP

Before heading to the Nepal border, or as partof a ve-day excursion from Lhasa, manytravellers make the diversion to iconic Ever-est Base Camp (EBC; 5150m). The clear vis-tas (if you are lucky) up a glacial valley to thesheer North Face are far superior to anythingyoull see in Nepal. Everest is known locally

as Chomolungma (sometimes spelt Qomol-angma), or as Zhfng in Chinese.Private vehicles can drive on a gravel

road to Rongphu Monastery (the high-est in the world), and then proceed just afew kilometres more to a small collectionof nomad tents set near a China Post kiosk(the highest post oce in the world). Fromhere its a one-hour walk or shuttle-bus ride(Y25) up a winding dirt road to EBC.

Food and lodging are pretty limited uphere (though the mobile phone reception isgreat!). The Monastery Guesthouse (dmY40, tw per bed Y80) at Rongphu was underrenovation in 2010. The ugly two-star hotelnearby is laughably overpriced. The mostpopular option is to stay in the nomadtents (per person Y40) and these actuallyoer the warmest and most comfortablebedding: those yak-dung stoves put out afantastic amount of heat! Even so, a sleep-ing bag is an excellent idea. Simple mealsand even canned beer are available insideall the tents. Keep your belongings lockedin your vehicle. Because EBC is a prime tar-get for political protests, the Chinese armymaintains a strong presence up here.

EBC is about 90km o the FriendshipHighway on a dirt road over the 5050mPang-la. Before you set o youll need tostop in Baber (Bib;), or New Tingri;4250m) or Old Tingri if coming from Ne-pal to pay the Qomolangma National Parkentrance fee of Y400 per vehicle, plus Y180per passenger. Clarify with your agencywhether you are expected to pay for bothyour vehicle and your guide.

If you need to spend the night in Baberthe Kangjong Hotel (; XuyBngun;%139 8992 3995; d without/with bath-

room Y100/220) is one of several good op-tions. The attached Tibetan-style restau-rant (dishes Y10-15) serves tasty hot mealsand is a cosy place to kick back with a ther-mos of sweet tea. The hotel is in the middleof town at the crossroads to Shegar.

TINGRI TO ZHNGM The huddle of mudbrick buildings thatcomprises the old village ofTingri (Dngr;4250m) has recently expanded about a kilo-metre down the Friendship Highway. Theviews of the towering Himalayan peaks ofMt Everest (8848m) and Cho Oyu (8153m)across the sweeping plain make up for theramshackle feel.

Ruins on the hill overlooking Tingri areall that remain of the Tingri Dzong. Thisfort was destroyed in a late-18th-centuryNepalese invasion. Many more ruins on theplains between Shegar and Tingri sharedthe same history.

There are several Tibetan guesthousesand restaurants on the main highway, in-cluding the Tingri Snowland Hotel(; Dngr Xuy Fndin;%152 0802 7313;

s/d Y60/70) in the far west of the strip, whichhas great views. Rooms are basic but brightand clean and there are hot showers (Y10).

From Tingri down to Zhngm on theNepal border is an easy half-days drive ofjust under 200km. If you are coming theother way you should break the trip intotwo days to aid acclimatisation. The high-est point along the paved road is the Tong-la pass (4950m), 95km from Tingri.

The one-street town of Nyalam (Nilm)is about 30km from the Nepal border anda usual overnight spot for 4WD trips fromNepal. There are several decent hotels, in-cluding the new Shishapangma Guest-house (; Xxibngm Lgun;%0892-8277 2191; dm/tr Y40/200) located atthe very edge of town, at the top of the hillon the Zhngm side.

After Nyalam, the road drops like a stone

into a lush, deep misty gorge lined withspectacular waterfalls, many of which arehundreds of metres high. You can feel theair getting thicker as you descend towardsthe subcontinent.

ZHNGM %0892 / ELEV 2250M

The frenetic border town of Zhngm(Khasa in Nepalese, Dram in Tibetan)


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hangs from the slopes above the tortuousnal kilometres of the Friendship Highway.The smells of curry and incense oat in theair, and the babbling sound of fast-owingstreams cuts through the trac noise. Aftertime on the high plateau, its either a feastfor the senses, or an unwelcome assault onthe meditative mood youve been cultivat-ing for the past weeks.

4 Sleeping & EatingSherpa Hotel HOTEL $$

(; Xirb Jidin; %874 2098; d/tr without bathroom Y80/120, d with bathroomY200) The pink-painted rooms are clean (ifa little small) at this friendly hotel and hotwater is available most of the time. The twobars at street level can be noisy but the back

rooms remain fairly quiet. The rooms thatface the valley aord spectacular views.The restaurant food is some of the best intown (dishes Y15 to Y40).

Zhngm Bngun HOTEL $$$

(; %874 2221; d/tr Y480/580, deluxer Y680, discounts of 15%) The modern roomsin this government-run hotel are luxuriousby Tibetan standards, and the back roomshave great mountain views, but its over-priced and the management is a bit snooty.

Base Camp Restaurant INTERNATIONAL FOOD $$

(; Dbnyng Cntng; Ground , GangGyen Hotel; dishes Y20-45; h9am-midnight;E)Looking a little like a Western sports bar(except with oxygen tanks and climbinggear instead of footballs and jerseys), thispopular establishment serves a full rangeof Nepali, Chinese, Tibetan and Western

mains, including steaks and breakfastfoods. The curries are thick and delicious.

8 InformationThe Bank of China (; Zhnggu Yn-hng;h9.30am-1.30pm & 3.30-6.30pm Mon-Fri, 11am-2pm Sat & Sun), up the hill, will changecash and travellers cheques into yun, and alsoyun into US dollars, euros or UK pounds if youhave an exchange receipt (ie the receipt you getwhen you change foreign currency into yun). It

doesnt deal in Nepalese rupees; for those go tothe moneychangers that operate openly in frontof the Zhngm Hotel.

Western TibetTibets far wild west, known in Tibetan asNgari, has few permanent settlers, but isnevertheless a lodestone to a billion pilgrims

from three major religions (Buddhism, Hin-duism and Jainism). They are drawn to thetwin spiritual power places of Mt Kailashand Lake Manasarovar, two of the mostlegendary and far-ung destinations in theworld.

Ngari is a blunt, expansive realm of saltlakes, Martian-style deserts, grassy steppesand towering snowcapped mountains. Its amesmerising landscape, but also intenselyremote: a few tents and herd of yaks may beall the signs of human existence one comesacross in half a days drive. Its a week-long,dusty, bumpy drive to Kailash but then,perhaps some journeys shouldnt be tooeasy.

Warm clothes are essential on any trip tothe region, even in summer, and a sleepingbag is recommended. The three-day koraaround Mt Kailash can be done without atent but bringing one will give you addedexibility and comfort. Accommodationalong the way ranges from basic guest-houses to chilly hotel rooms. Few have at-tached bathrooms but most towns haveat least one public bathhouse. Most townsnow have well-stocked supermarkets, inter-net cafes and Chinese restaurants, thoughits still worth bringing along a few treats,such as peanuts, chocolate bars and dehy-drated food from home.

The only places to change money inNgari are banks in Ali, and its much easierto change US dollars as cash rather thantravellers cheques. Its best just to bringwhat you expect to spend in renminbi.

When to Go

May, June and from mid-September toearly October are probably the best timesfor travel in the region. During the sum-mer months of July and August rains cantemporarily wash out roads. The Drlma-la pass on the Mt Kailash kora is usuallyblocked with snow from late October orearly November until early April. The fes-tival of Saga Dawa (see p885) during Mayor June brings hundreds of pilgrims and

tourists to the mountain.Permits

Youll need a stful of permits to visitNgari: a TTB permit, Alien Travel Permit,military permit, foreign aairs permit etc.The travel agency that organises your 4WDtrip will arrange these but will need a week,preferably two, to do so.


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8 Getting There & AwayFour-wheel-drive trips to Mt Kailash requirearound 14 days if just taking the southern route,or 21 days for a loop combining both the north-ern and southern routes. Add on three days toexplore the Guge Kingdom at Tsaparang. Onegood option is to exit at Zhngm, detouringfrom Saga to the Friendship Highway via the lake

of Peiku-tso.There is bus service along the northern routefrom Lhasa to Ali and on to Ychng in Xnjingbut foreigners are not permitted to take these.

SOUTHERN ROUTEFrom Lhasa there are two routes to Ngari,the southern being the quicker option ifyoure headed straight for Mt Kailash. Bothroutes follow the paved Friendship Highwayas far as the town ofLhatse (; Lz),

where there are several hotels, includingthe Lhatse Tibetan Farmers Hotel (; LzNngmi Lgun;%832 2333; dwithout/with bathroom Y35/130), which alsofeatures a cosy Tibet-style restaurant.

After Lhatse, both routes continue on amostly paved road to the hamlet ofRaga.After this the routes split, with the south-ern one heading directly northwest towardsDarchen. There are simple guesthouses

(dm Y30) in Raga but most groups continue60km to the larger military town ofSaga(; Sg), which has internet cafes andhot public showers. The Saga Hotel(; Sg Bngun;%0892-820 2888; d/tr withbathroom Y420/360;ai) is right at the towncrossroads and has hot showers and West-ern bathrooms. Tibetan guesthouses suchas the cosy Bo Tie The Clan Hotel (BodoDronkhang;; Bzh Jiz Lgun;

dm Y30 per bed) are a 10-minute walk (800m)north of the centre.

Once the current road upgrading has n-ished you will be able to reach Darchen inone long day (490km) from Saga but untilthen most groups split the bouncy, scenicride into two days. This also helps with theacclimatisation process. After Lhatse you

never drop below 4000m.In grubby Paryang (; Pyng),

the Shishapangma Hotel (;Xxibngm Bngun; dm/d per bed Y40/100) ispopular with Indian pilgrims. The centralTashi Hotel(; ZhxLgun; dm Y30)is a smaller, simpler Tibetan-style place.From Paryang to Darchen is 245km.

NORTHER N ROUTE

The northern route splits from the south-ern at the little hamlet of Raga, headingalmost due north. From here its 3 daysto Ali and then another day to Darchen, butthe reward for the extra mileage is pass-ing through some of the most epic sceneryon the planet. There are vast grasslands,massive turquoise salt lakes, dry-as-bonesbadlands, and mountain ranges colouredpurple, red and green. Small herds of wild

asses and Tibetan antelope are often spot-ted near the road, as are yak and sheep andtheir nomad herders.

After Raga, its a full days drive (235km)to Tsochen (; Cuqn), via spectacu-lar Tagyel-tso. The Friendship Feria Hotel(; Yuy Bngun;%0897-261 2308; d/tr/q without bathroom Y120/150/200) is at thebeginning of town on the left, before thepetrol station. Rooms are clean and theres

BORDER CROSSING: GETTING TO NEPAL

After lling in an exit and health form at Chinese immigration(h9.30am-6.30pm,sometimes closed 1.30-3.30pm) in Zhngm, access to Nepal is via the FriendshipBridge and Kodari, around 8km below Zhngm. Your 4WD should take you the dis-tance, or cars and trucks oer rides across this stretch of no mans land for Y10.

At Nepali immigration(h8.30am-4pm) in Kodari, you can get a visa for the same

price as in Lhasa (US$25/40/100 for a 15-/30-/90-day visa, or the equivalent in ru-pees, plus one passport photo), though it is sensible to get one beforehand in Lhasa justto be safe; see p890 for details. Note that Nepal is 2 hours behind Chinese time.

There are four daily buses to Kathmandu (Rs 240 to Rs 280, 4 hours) the1.30pm is express or take a bus to Barabise (Rs 65, three hours) and change. Theeasier option is to share a private vehicle with other travellers. Drivers will be outsideimmigration waiting to haggle. A ride to Kathmandu (four to ve hours) costs Rs 3000per car (Rs 800 per seat) but youll struggle to nd a driver after 5pm.

For further information, head to shop.lonelyplanet.com to purchase a downl

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