PM Finishing

Get in touch with perfectionMoist-Cure / LT-Cure

Version 1.7

07.09.2005

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Resin finish

Comparison of traditional Easy Care finish with a No Iron finish

only softened Easy Care finish No Iron finish

Smoothness Appearance: ( 3 x 40°C washed, tumble dried )

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Resin finish

Different methods to determine the smoothness appearance

Common evaluation methods for smoothness appearance are:

" Smoothness Appearance of fabrics after repeated home launderings " AATCC 124

ISO 7768 - M&S P134 - DIN 53895 - AFNOR G 07 137-2

Monsanto 1 2 3 3.5 4 5 Smoothness Appearance AATCC 124 (Idem für M&S P134)

1 2 3 3.5 4 5 DIN 53895 1 2 4 6 8 10

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Resin finish

Smoothness Appearance of fabrics after repeated home launderings

AATCC 124

SA-2

SA- 4

SA-1

SA-3

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Resin finish

Comparison of different resin finish processes

Fabric

humidity in %

pH of the finishing

liquor

Amount of resin in the recipe in g/l

Curing temperature

in °C Curing time Shape of

the fibre

Effect / Strenght relation

Washing after

curing necessary

Suitable for reactive

dyed goods

Classical dry curing 0-2 3.5-5 30-80 140 - 160 3 min non-swollen standard no yes

Rapid curing 0-1 3.5-5 30-80 150 - 190 30 - 10 sec non-swollen standard no yes

LT-Cure process 0-3 2- 4 150-200 130 3 min non-swollen good yes yes

Moist-Cure 7-10 0.5 - 1.5 150-200 25 - 35 20-24 h partly swollen very good yes no

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Resin finish

Comparison of different resin finish processes

Dry-Cure process:

1) Pad & Dry 2) Cure 3 minutes at 150°C

Moist-Cure process:

2) Batch20-24 h at 30-35°C

1) Pad & Dry to res. moisture of 7-10%

3) Wash offand neutralize

4) Top finish

LT-Cure process: ( Low Temperature - Cure )

1) Pad & Dry 2) Cure 3 minutes at 130°C

3) Wash off 4) Top finish

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Resin finish

Easy Life Finish

The uncomplicated Easy Care finish with variable building block system

For woven knit goods of cotton and their blends with synthetic fibresOne stage processGuide recipe 100 % Co fabric (lightweight fabric; white or coloured goods)

Stage 1 30-80 g/l Arkofix NDF liq c10-16 g/l Catalyst NKC liq15-30 g/l Ceraperm MW liq conc20-30 g/l Velustrol P40 liq

3-5 g/l Appretan MB extra0.5 g/l Sandozin MRN liq c

- pad cold- Pickup 60-70 %- dry at 120° C, then cure 150°C 3 minuntes

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Resin finish

LT-Cure Finish

The comprehensive low risk finish for highest demands as an alternative to moist crosslinking with almost the same effects (no change of shade)

For woven goods of 100 % Cotton.Three stage processGuide recipe for 100 % Co fabric (120g/m2)

Stage 1 Resin finish150-210 g/l Arkofix NDF/NEC Plus liq c*

25-32 g/l Catalyst LT1 liq10-30 g/l Ceraperm MW liq conc30-40 g/l Velustrol P40 liq

0.5 g/l Sandozin MRN liq c- pad cold- pickup 60-70 %

- dry at 80°C to residual humidity of 5-8%,- then cure 3 min at 130°C

Stage 2 Openwidth washing0.5 g/l Sandoclean PC liq- openwidth wash at 40°C- rinse & dry

Stage 3 Top finish0.5 g/l acetic acid 60 %30-40 g/l Ceraperm MW liq conc40 g/l Ceranin HDP liq0-5 g/l Appretan MB extra0.5 g/l Sandozin MRN liq c- pad cold, pickup 60-80 %- dry at 130°C- sanforize if necessary*) list of suitable resins seeseparate page

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Resin finish

Moist-CureThe complex State of the Art finish with a technically demandingbackground

For woven goods of 100% Cotton.Three stage processGuide recipe for 100 % Co fabric (120g/m2)

Stage 2 Openwidth washing with soda ash and Sandoclean PC liq- neutralize at 60°C- rinse, neutralize cold with acetic acid- rinse & dry

(for details see separate sheet)

Stage 1 Resin finish 180-240 g/l Arkofix NDL liq conc

0-30 g/l Ceraperm MW liq conc25-40 g/l Ceranine HDP liq

0.5 g/l Sandozin MRN liq c4-7 g/l sulphuric acid conc

- pad cold- pickup 70-80 %- dry at 90-100°C to 7-10 % residual humidity- roll and batch at 25-35°C for 20-24 h

Stage 3 Top finish0.5 g/l acetic acid 60 %30 g/l Ceraperm MW liq conc40 g/l Ceranine HDP liq0-5g/l Appretan MB extra0.5 g/l Sandozin MRN liq c

- pad cold, pickup 60-80 %- dry at 130°C- sanforize if necessary

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Resin finish

Moist-CureThe complex State of the Art finish with a technically demandingbackground

For woven goods of 100% Cotton.Three stage processGuide recipe for 100 % Co fabric (120g/m2)

Stage 2 Openwidth washing with soda ash and Sandoclean PC liq- neutralize at 60°C- rinse, neutralize cold with acetic acid- rinse & dry

(for details see separate sheet)

Stage 1 Resin finish180-240 g/l Arkofix MCL liq conc*)

0-30 g/l Ceraperm MW liq conc25-40 g/l Ceranine HDP liq

0.5 g/l Sandozin MRN liq c110 g/l Catalyst MC1 liq*)

0.4-0.6 ml/l HCl 36-38 %- pad cold- pickup 70-80 %- dry at 90-100°C to 6.5-7 % residual humidity- roll and batch at 30-35°C for 22-24 h

Stage 3 Top finish0.5 g/l acetic acid 60 %30 g/l Ceraperm MW liq conc40 g/l Ceranine HDP liq0-5g/l Appretan MB extra0.5 g/l Sandozin MRN liq c

- pad cold, pickup 60-80 %- dry at 130°C- sanforize if necessary*) is not available in all countries

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Resin finish

Influence of moisture in Moist-Cure process

5060708090

100110120130140150160

1 3 5 7 9 11 13 15 17 19 21

In this area:too much

loss of strenght

In this area:effects not

good enough

Optimumin effects

and strenght

Moisture in %

Dry crease angles

Wet crease angles

Crease recovery angles in °

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Resin finish

Influence of drying temperature in Moist-Cure process

0

10

20

30

40

50

60

70

70 90 110 130 150

Abrasion

Tensile strength

Loss in %

Drying temperature in °C (dried to a residual moisture of 7% (Mahlo figure))

100 % Cotton finished with Glyoxal resin and catalysed with sulfuric acid

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Resin finish

Important points for Moist-Cure process

pH of the finishing liquor should between 0.8 and 1.3

Drying temperature not higher than 70 - 90°C.

Reduce ventilation to max 75% in order to achive a gentle and equal drying.

Residual humidity of the fabric must be adjusted exactly to 7 - 10 % (mahlo figure)

Wrap with a plastic foil and store at a temperature of 25 - 35 °C for

20 - 24 hours (possible is between 17 and 30 hours).

(In some countries a climate chamber is advisable).

Then wash/neutralize, dry and do the softening at the stenter.

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Resin finish

Important points for Moist-Cure process

Use a high reactive and hydrolysis stable glyoxal resin (like Arkofix NDL

or Arkofix MCL)

An addition of a acid stable polyethylene softener will minimize the loss in tear strength

If an addition of an optical brightener is needed, use an acid stable type and add it in

the resin step as well as in the softening step.

pH of the finished fabric should be slightly acid to neutral (if it is alcaline formaldehyde

figures may be too high).

Remark: Only vat-dyed or pigment dyed colors can withstand the extremely acid

conditions of a moisture cure without showing a severe shade change.

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Resin finish

Washing process after Moist-Cure

7. Department

water: 40°C

pH about 5-6

add acetic acidif necessary

8. Department

cold water

pH 6-7

4.+6. Department

water: 50°C

pH about 7-8

1. Department

cold water

pH about 6

2. Department

water: 40°C2-4 g/l soda ash

pH about 10-11

3. Department

water: 40°C2-3 g/l soda ash2 g/l Sandoclean PC liq

pH about 10

Remark: Instead of Sandoclean PC liq also Sandozin MRN liq conc can be used (dosage = about half of the dosage of Sandoclean PC liq.)

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Resin finish

Important points for LT-Cure process

Use drying temperature not higher than 70 - 90°C plus reducedventilation to max.75% in order to achieve a gentle and equal drying, and to reduce migration of the resin.

Curing temperature must be exactly 130°C (not higher).

Use our newly developed Catalyst LT1 liq together with a selected highlyreactive glyoxal resin (see list with the recommended chemicals) in order to get a high crosslinking rate together with acceptable strength loss:

The dosage of Catalyst LT1 liq in LT-Cure process is depending on the typeof resin:

with 150-210 g/l Arkofix NDF liq conc use 34 g/l Catalyst LT1 liqwith 150-210 g/l Arkofix NEC Plus liq conc use 28 g/l Catalyst LT1liqwith 150-210 g/l Arkofix NES liq conc use 28 g/l Catalyst LT1liq

An addition of a polyethylene softener will minimize the loss in tear strength.

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Resin finish

Recommended products for LT-Cure process

In the Top-Finish:

Silicone softeners:Solusoft UP liq or liq concSandoperm MW liq or liq concSandoperm ACN liq

Polyethylens:Ceranine HDP liqSandolube SVN liqVelustrol P40 liq

In the Resin-Finish step:

Glyoxal resins:Arkofix NDF liq concArkofix NEC Plus liq concArkofix NES liq conc

Silicone softeners:Sandoperm MW liq or liq conc

Polyethylens:Ceranine HDP liqSandolube SVN liqVelustrol P40 liq

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Comparison Dry-Cure versus LT-Cure

RECIPES: 0 1 2 3 4 Dry-Cure LT-Cure Acetic acid 60% g/l 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Sandozin NRW liq hc g/l 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Arkofix NDF liq conc g/l - 80 100 120 - Arkofix NEC Plus liq conc g/l - - - - 170 Ceraperm MW liq g/l - 40 40 40 40 Ceranine HDP liq g/l - 60 60 60 40 Magnesiumchloride, 6 H2O g/l - 16 20 24 - Catalyst LT1 liq g/l - - - - 27

Pickup: 70 %, then dry at 110°C cure 3 minutes at 150°C (eff.) cure 3 minutes at 130°C - wash at 40°C, then dry

Sandozin NRW liq hc g/l - 0.2 0.2 Ceraperm MW liq g/l - 20 20 Ceranin HDP liq g/l - 30 30

dry at 130°C dry at 130°C

RESULTS: 0 1 2 3 4

Smoothness appearance (AATCC 124) 1 3.0 3.1 3.2 3.6 Tensile strength (ASTM 5034), warp daN 36.7 25.7 24.7 21.3 24.1 Tensile strength (ASTM 5034), weft daN 34.2 24.9 21.5 17.2 22.3 Loss in Tensile strength (warp & weft) % - -28.9 -34.8 -45.7 -34.6 Tear strength (ASTM 1424), warp cN 970 828 776 681 761 Tear strength (ASTM 1424), weft cN 996 885 739 523 735 Loss in Tear strength (warp & weft) % - -12.8 -22.9 -38.8 -23.9

Resin finish

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Resin finish

LT-Cure versus Dry-Cure and Moist-Cure

Dry-Cure LT-Cure Moist-Curewith high dosage of resin

0

1

2

3Chlorine resistance

SP

CRA

Softness

Tensile strength

Tear strength

DP

Reactive Dyes

0

1

2

3Chlorine resistance

SP

Softn

Tensile strength

Tear strength

DP

Reactive Dyes

0

1

2

3Chlorine resistance

SP

Softn

Tensile strength

Tear strength

DP

Reactive Dyes

CRA

ess

CRA

ess

Legend:3 = very good2 = good1 = moderate / poor0 = very poor

SP = Simplicity of processCRA = Crease recovery anglesDP = Durable Press*If chlorine resistent resin is used

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www.textiles.clariant.com

Clariant International LtdRothaustrasse 61CH-4132 Muttenz, SwitzerlandPhone: +41 61 469 7074Fax: +41 61 469 7548bu.textile.chemicals@clariant.com

Glyoxal based crosslinkermodified N-methylol dihydroxi ethylene urea very low formaldehyde content

NANO - emulsionspecial modified silixaneweakly cationic, no yellowing

Micro – emulsionAminomodified silicone elastomernonionic

Hydrophilic multipurpose polyurethane,ideal for moisture management finish, additive for resin finish, nonionic

Arkofix NDF liq conc

Sandoperm SE1 liq

Ceraperm MW liq + liq c

Sandoperm RPU liq

Many of their dyestuffs, pigments and chemicals are patented by Clariant Ltd or its affiliates in numerous industrial countries.®Trademark registered by Clariant Ltd or Clariant GmbH in numerous countries. * Trademark licensed to Clariant Ltd in numerous countries. +Manufacturer’s registered trade mark. The signs ®, * and + appear only at the first mention of the product.

The information and recommendations presented here were compiled with the utmost care,but cannot be extended to cover every possible case. They are intended to serve as non-binding guidelines and must be adapted to the prevailing conditions.

Clariant priority products