Consumer Aspirations,

Claims Investigations,

and Product Evaluations

Birnur K. Aral, PhD and Mary E. Clarke

Good Housekeeping Institute

Society of Cosmetic Chemists

Toronto

November 6, 2014

Good Housekeeping - Founded in 1885

Good Housekeeping Research Institute

- Established in 1900

Our Roll of Honor

-The New York Times

“ There is a kind of

assurance that buying your

ring at Tiffany inures you

from bad marital juju, as if

the union were protected by

the Good Housekeeping

Seal of Approval.

”

An American Icon

Tremendous Influence

Great Deal of Influence

Some Influence

92%

41%

34%

17%

85%

22%

33%

30%

79%

14%

29%

36%

76%

24%

28%

24%

66%

13%

22%

31%

SOURCE: Fairfield Research, July 2011

66%

16%

23%

27%

64%

13%

26%

25%

47%

6%

14%

27%

43%

4%

12%

27%

47%

4%

11%

25%

37%

4%

9%

24%

Seal Emblem Recognition

Health, Beauty, and Environmental Sciences Lab

Product Categories

• Beauty Products

• OTC drugs, dietary supplements

• Water filtration devices

• Insecticides, pesticides

• Pet food

Consumer Advocacy

• “Is It Safe to Heat Food in Plastic?”

• “Keratin Hair Treatments: Do they

contain formaldehyde?”

• “Is Your Tap Water Safe?” – Partnered

with U. of Arizona and U. of Nebraska

Our Reach

• 20 million magazine readers

• 9 million unique visitors to

goodhousekeeping.com

• Product Reviews Channel

• 5.3 million page views/month

• 5.1 million views for beauty

content

• Inside the Institute Blog

• 7 Years Younger best-selling books

• National and local TV, radio,

newspaper interviews

Instrumentation

• Climatology Chamber

• Visia Complexion Analyzer-Canfield

• Corneometer- Courage-Khazaka

• Cutometer- Courage-Khazaka MPA 580

• TEWL-cyberDERM RG-1-Evaporimeter

• Chromameter-Minolta CR-310

• Wash Station-Custom design

• Mechanical Tester-Instron Model 5944

with TRI’s Comb attachment

• Shine Cylinder-Custom design

Consumer Panel

• Survey Monkey Survey Analytics

• Panel Size: ~4000

• 91% Female

• On-Site Testers: 350+

• 100+ within Hearst Tower

• At least 22 testers enrolled per product

Methodology

Launched in 2010

• AA Skin Categories

• Day creams with SPF

• Night creams

• Eye creams

• Serums

• Age-spot treatments

• Peels

• Instant wrinkle smoothers

• Firming Creams

• Lip treatments

• Hand Creams

• Sunscreens

• Body Lotions

• AA Hair

• Shampoo and Conditioners

• Deep conditioner/Masks

• Serums

• Thickening

• Hair Color

• Permanent

• Root Touch-ups

• Instant Root Touch-ups

• Volumizing Mousses

• AA Makeup Categories

• Foundations

• Primers

• Concealers

• Lipsticks

• Lip Plumpers

• 5,229 Female testers age 35 or older

• Average age: 49

• Products Screened: 1500+

• Advisory boards

• Top dermatologists

• Top makeup artists

• Top hair science and measurement experts

• Products Tested: 593

• Consumer questionnaires tallied: 10,228

• Visia before-and-after pictures: 12,337

• Corneometer data points: 20,820

• Cutometer data points: 11,696

• Hair swatches used:1,667

• 5,284 wash/dry cycles used to test hair color

• 3.706 frizz measurements

• Products Awarded: 109

• Winners: http://www.goodhousekeeping.com/product-reviews/

The Story In Numbers

Topicals do have limitations… but you can get good results…

62 year old subject after 8 weeks of daily use of drugstore

brand day moisturizer with SPF 30 containing retinol

At times you can get striking results…

80 year old subject after 8 weeks of twice daily use of

drugstore brand serum with pro-retinol

• Price doesn’t always correlate with performance

• Boots No7 Protect and Perfect Serum ($21/1 oz)

• Gold in 2010

• La Prairie Cellular Power Charge Night Cream ($475/1.35 oz)

• Gold in 2013

• Facial Moisturizers

• With SPF 30 (2013) less moisturizing than those with SPF 15

• SPF 30- ~6.5% at 6 hrs.

• SPF15- ~19% at 6 hrs.

• Night creams tested in 2013 in two categories

• w/ and w/o retinol performed similarly in the lab and with consumers

• Products w/retinol more potent but not tolerated as well

• panelists’ skipping 1-3 days between use

• Anti-aging makeup

• Were skeptical at first but

• Moisturizing and/or firming foundations and concealers

• No significant improvements in wrinkles

• Thickening serums tested for our sept 2014 hair awards

• All six that were tested via Laser Micrometry showed and increase in cross-

sectional area after product application.

Some General Observations

Sun Protection - Best Action Against Skin’s aging

• Results from our latest Sunscreen Test

• 17 Broad Spectrum SPF 50 products with 80 min water-resistance

• Best sellers as per each brand

• 9 Lotions + 6 aerosols+1 gel+ 1milk

• 14 chemical sunscreens + 3 mineral/physical sunscreens

• Field test in Summer 2013 + stain testing in the Lab

• Each product distributed to minimum of 22 testers

• 15-22 Returned per product

• N=332

• In 41 states

• Ages 18 and above

• ~5% of tester pool was male

• They used it at least twice while outdoors in the sun

• 66% exercised outdoors such as jogging and biking

• 52% went to the pool or swam

• 37% went to the beach

• 24% were involved in other activities, which included

yard work/gardening, playing tennis, etc.

• 16% went boating/sailing

• Consumers generally satisfied with the

sunscreen category

• All scored excellent for preventing from

sunburn and quite well for water

resistance.

• Consumer Satisfaction

#1-Chemical sunscreens –non-aerosols

#2-Mineral sunscreens

#3-Chemical sunscreens - aerosols

• Low in fragrance, texture, and

irritation/stinging attributes

• Low in being oily/greasy/slippery and

leaving a filmy residue

• Did not score higher for ease of application

• Stain Testing performance

1- Mineral sunscreens

2- Chemical sunscreens – non-aerosols

3- Chemical sunscreens - aerosols

General Results

Ease of Use + Performance Predictor variables (12)

1. This product was easy to apply to my body.

2. This product had a pleasant fragrance.

3. I liked the texture of this product.

4. The product absorbed well into my skin.

5. This product did not leave a filmy residue on my skin.

6. This product did not cause any stinging or irritation.

7. This product did not stain or rub off on clothing, swimsuit,

towel, furniture, etc.

8. This product did not feel tacky on my skin

9. This product did not feel greasy/oily/slippery on my skin.

10.This product didn’t make my skin feel dry.

11.This product resisted water well.

12.I didn’t get sunburn during the times I used this product.

Satisfaction Dependent/criterion variable (1)

1. Overall, I was satisfied with the product to continue using it.

Open-ended

• Likes

• Dislikes

• Other Comments

SPSS Analysis- Linear Regression

Most Important Attributes That Drive Consumers

• First Zero-order correlations of all 12 variables was carried out

then a stepwise multiple regression was conducted

• R2= 0.67

1. I like the texture of this product : 0.376

2. This product was easy to apply to my body: 0.240

3. This product absorbed well into my skin: 0.222

4. This product did not stain or rub off on clothing, swimsuit, towel,

furniture, etc.: 0.185

5. This product had a pleasant fragrance: 0.177

6. This product did not cause any stinging or irritation: 0.113

• Text analysis feature of Survey Monkey used to analyze

comments for “Likes”

1. Easy to apply/Easily/Application

2. Greasy/ Not oily/Texture

3. Smell/Fragrance

4. Protected/Burn

5. Absorbed

What Sways Consumers’ Decision Negatively

• Looked at outliers in our data where a consumer’s

overall satisfaction behaved in an unpredictable way

• A larger data set is ideal

• When disliked following were among those that swayed

consumers’ overall satisfaction negatively.

1. This product had a pleasant fragrance.

2. This product did not leave a filmy residue.

3. This product did not cause any stinging or irritation.

4. This product did not feel drying

• The text analysis feature of the Survey Monkey was

utilized to analyze open-ended consumers’ “Dislikes”

1. Smell/Scent/Fragrance/Odor

2. Greasy

3. White/Residue

Do you specifically look for beauty products with anti-aging benefits?

0.9

0.1

0%

20%

40%

60%

80%

100%

Yes No

• Understanding consumers habits and unmet needs in AA Skin Care

• Polled ~1,200 female US consumers in March 2014

• Majority of panel testing anti-aging products for us for the last 5 years

• Age range 22 to 83 with average at 48

• 86.5% Caucasian, 4.7% Hispanic, 3.9% Asian, 3.2% African American

State of Anti-aging Skin care - Consumer Insights

Since what age have you been using skin care products with anti-aging claims?

0.02

0.16

0.35

0.33

0.14

0%

5%

10%

15%

20%

25%

30%

35%

40%

Since my

teen years

Since my

twenties

Since my

thirties

Since my

forties

Since my

fifties

What is the one anti-aging product type that you have seen results with and

can’t live without?

0.03

0.24

0.1

0.17

0.14

0.01 0.01

0.15

0.01

0.1

0.03

0%

5%

10%

15%

20%

25%

30%

If you use a daily facial sunscreen what SPF do you use?

Less than SPF 15

2%

SPF 15

41%

SPF 30

39%

SPF 45

4%

SPF 50 or higher

6%

I don't know the SPF

of the product I use.

4%

Other (Please

describe)

4%

Do you use sunscreen protection on your face?

Yes:

90%

No:

10%

Is there a specific area of concern on your face or body that are not

addressed sufficiently with any of the skin care products you have tried?

0.08 0.08

0.1

0.09 0.09

0.07

0.1 0.1

0.04

0.12

0.05

0.06

0.01

0.02

0%

2%

4%

6%

8%

10%

12%

14%

Have you had any of the following professional procedures?

7%

12%

6%

3%

4%

1%

1%

61%

4%

Chemical Peels

Microdermabrasion

Botox

Fillers

Lasers

Ultrasound Therapy

Radio Frequency Treatments

N/A

Other. Please specify which treatments you have had…

If you never had any of the following professional procedures in the past,

which one will you consider in the near future?

11%

15%

8%

9%

10%

8%

6%

10%

20%

3%

Chemical Peels

Microdermabrasion

Botox

Fillers

Lasers

Ultrasound Therapy

Radio Frequency Treatments

Will never get any such treatments

Don't know enough about these to have an opinion.

Other. Please specify which other treatments you…

Understanding consumer habits and unmet needs

for hair care

Polled 1887 female consumers in August 2014

Age range 18 to 83 with an average of 48

47%

53%

I’m loyal to a

specific brand(s)

I buy whatever is on sale

73% 66%

58%

27%

17%

1% 0%

10%

20%

30%

40%

50%

60%

70%

80%

99% 93%

60% 57%

41% 40% 40% 35%

11%

0%

20%

40%

60%

80%

100%

120%

33%

42%

15%

11%

0%

5%

10%

15%

20%

25%

30%

35%

40%

45%

$5 and under $5 to $10 $10-$15 $15 +

47%

37%

10%

4% 2%

0%

5%

10%

15%

20%

25%

30%

35%

40%

45%

50%

Neutral Satisfied Unsatisfied Extremely

Satisfied

Extremely

Unsatisfied

#1Condition (dryness, dullness, rough texture)

#2 Frizz

#3 Grays

#4 Lack of Volume

#5 Thinning

#6 Oiliness

84%

16%

Too many choices

Not enough choices

57% 57%

46%

34%

14%

5%

0%

10%

20%

30%

40%

50%

60%

Hair Oils Dry Shampoo Dry Texturizers Alternative Hair

Color (Ombre

effect, bright

colors, etc.)

None of the

above

Other

91%

9%

0%

10%

20%

30%

40%

50%

60%

70%

80%

90%

100%

Yes No

85%

15%

0%

10%

20%

30%

40%

50%

60%

70%

80%

90%

Yes No

Do you think the term "anti-aging" has a negative connotation?

Yes:

12%

No:

88 %

Other terms to be used instead of “anti-aging”?

16%

14%

10%

12%

14%

11%

4%

5%

7%

2%

4%

2 %

Rejuvenating

Renewing

Regenerating

Restoring

Refreshing

Reviving

Age-reversing

Age-fighting

Age-defying

Age-preventing

Age-delaying

Other. Please specify the other terms…

Average Age: 48

Age Range: 23-83

Miriam Arond, Director, Good

Housekeeping Institute

Health, Beauty, and

Environmental Sciences Lab

Sabina Burdzovic, Chemist

Danusia Wnek, Product Analyst

Olivia Torres, Intern/Freelancer

Home Appliance and Cleaning

Products Lab

Carolyn Forte, Director

Lexie Sachs, Product Analyst

Dr. Steven Q. Wang, Head,

Basking Ridge Dermatology

Section; Director of

Dermatologic Surgery and

Dermatology, Memorial Sloan-

Kettering Cancer Center