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© Project SOUND Out of the Wilds and Into Your Garden Gardening with South Bay Native Plants Project SOUND - 2008

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2008 lecture on container gardening with California native plants.

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Page 1: Containers pails & pots   2008

© Project SOUND

Out of the Wilds and Into Your Garden

Gardening with South Bay Native Plants Project SOUND - 2008

Page 2: Containers pails & pots   2008

© Project SOUND

Containers, Cans & Pots

C.M. Vadheim and T. Drake

CSUDH & Madrona Marsh Preserve

Madrona Marsh Preserve

June 7th & 10th, 2008

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Why include container plantings in your garden?

To provide interest and variety to the garden

To provide unique conditions required by a plant (moisture; soil type; light; etc)

To contain an overly ‘exuberant’ plant

Allows you to focus money & efforts on a few special (specimen) plants

Limit effects of animals

http://coldcalculation.blogspot.com/2007/02/presidents-day-2007.html

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© Project SOUND http://www.laspilitas.com/sites/centralcoastsand.html

The ‘New California Garden’

The ‘New California Garden’ design

Is based on a thoughtful analysis of the assets of a particular site

Selects plants on the basis of their suitability for that site & it’s inhabitants

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Container gardens allow us to create the

conditions needed by selected plants

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Growing plants in containers allows you to control

the medium, fertility & soil moisture

Water retention: Improve drainage

Improve retention

Medium fertility: Decrease fertility

Increase fertility with regular fertilization

Supply specific nutrients

Alter pH

Watering schedule:

http://groups.ucanr.org/slosson/documents/2005-200610656.pdf

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What type of plant do you want to grow?

Desert plants?

Plants that require ‘summer dry’ (Zone 1)?

Damp forest floor plants?

Riparian plants (pond’s edge)?

Pond/lake plants?

The type of pot you choose, the

medium you need and the watering

regimen will all depend on the type

of plants you wish to grow

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Your challenge is to make the conditions as close to the natural growing conditions as possible

http://www.penick.net/digging/index.php?s=wildflower+center

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Is container gardening with Ca natives

really for you?

Requires more time, care than natives planted in the ground

Choice & location of containers Medium preparation Watering; much more close

monitoring & more often during dry season

Fertilizing; re-mulching Repotting

Requires good knowledge of needs of plants

Requires some planning

http://d30033286.purehost.com/z365photos/garden11-1.jpg

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Many nice container choices: a few

suggestions

Containers should be at least 1 ft deep and at least 1 ft in diameter for most CA native plants & larger for woody shrubs – smaller sizes hard to water properly

Most native plants in containers need good drainage, so choose a pot with a hole.

"The thicker the container, the better. Thick walls help insulate the roots from temperature extremes." - Bart O'Brien.

Light colored pots also help to control temperature extremes

http://www.shedstyle.com/2007/11/

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Many nice container choices: a few

suggestions, cont.

For many native plants choose pots made of clay or concrete--these porous materials allow free passage of air and moisture. While this promotes healthy roots, it also allows soil to dry out quickly, so containers require frequent irrigation.

As an alternative to thick, heavy containers, you can double up lighter pots. Place one inside a slightly larger one; fill the area between the pots with damp peat moss or bark mulch.

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Choose pots based on drainage requirements

of plants

Unglazed terracotta or cement

Composites (fiberglass/plastic)

Wood (half-barrel)

Glazed terracotta

Plastic/metal

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Containers should provide ample room for roots; the larger the container, the greater the root development.

Coast Live Oak – Quercus agrifolia

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Remember: growing natives in pots is not

the same as growing them in the ground

even plants that would ordinarily thrive in full sun may benefit from afternoon shade, especially when placed on a patio or paved surfaces because they can heat up very quickly

http://www.h2ouse.net/gardensoft/garden_detail.aspx?garden=962

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Proper planting of native plants in containers

Prepare for drainage Check drainage holes To prevent soil leakage use paper

towel, coffee filter, mesh screen, or pot shard.

?? Gravel/stone layer

Fill pot with prepared media – root crown 1-2 inches below top of pot

Gently fill in with potting medium - leave a 1-2 inch space between the top of the soil and the top of the container – chopsticks can be useful

Gently firm soil around roots

Water in well

Add ½-2 inch or so of appropriate mulch

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Use an appropriate mulch…

A one- to two-inch layer of mulch will cool the soil and help it retain moisture.

Mulch reduces weed growth and organic mulch improves the fertility of the soil as it decomposes.

Mulch also prevents crusting of the soil surface, allowing water to penetrate to the root zone.

Finally, the uneven surface of mulch limits reflectivity. Sand and clay soils can be highly reflective and bounce heat and light up onto plants. The fragmented surface of mulch reduces reflectivity and cools the adjacent area.

Choose organic (shredded or chipped bark, compost, and cocoa hulls) or inorganic (rocks, gravel) mulch depending on the type of plants you are using

http://www.penick.net/digging/index.php?s=wildflower+center

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General maintenance of CA native

container plants

Fertilize plants infrequently. You can top-dress containers with controlled-release fertilizer every three to twelve months.

To maintain a neat, compact appearance, many flowering perennials and shrubs should be cut back and shaped when their flowers fade.

Most benefit from a light pruning of about a third of the length of flowering stems; this prompts the best bloom later.

Some plants, including California fuchsia, require a hard heading back to look their best.

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Container gardens are great for plants

that require well-drained soils

http://www.wildgingerfarm.com/images/Carolsrockgarden001_3.JPG

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Chocolate Lily – Fritillaria biflora var. biflora

http://groups.ucanr.org/slosson/documents/2005-200610654.pdf

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Chocolate Lily – Fritillaria biflora var. biflora

North Coast Ranges (Mendocino, Napa cos.), Central Western California, Southwestern California

Uncommon.

Grassy slopes, mesas, serpentine barrens;

Openings in coastal sage scrub, chaparral

Almost always within several miles of coast.

http://groups.ucanr.org/slosson/documents/2005-200610654.pdf

http://www.efloras.org/florataxon.aspx?flora_id=1&taxon_id=242102247

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Its dark and lovely appearance has earned it the nickname of 'Cleopatra of the Fritillaries.'

http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/NorthAmericanFritillarias

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Characteristics of Chocolate Lily

Size:

< 2 ft tall

1 ft wide

Growth form: Herbaceous perennial from a

true bulb

Dies back entirely in dry summer/fall

Foliage: Simple, strap-like lily leaves

Flowers: Brown-colored

Early spring: usually Feb-Apr http://www.pacificbulbsociety.org/pbswiki/index.php/NorthAmericanFritillarias

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Chocolate Lily is typical of CA native

bulbs in its requirements…

Soils: Texture: any including clays if well-

drained

pH: 6.0-8.0

Light: Full sun to part shade

Fine for tree edges, among grasses

Water: Needs good moisture through

flowering

Absolute need for summer/fall dry period

Fertilizer: ½ strength monthly during growth period © 2007 Lynn Watson

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Garden uses for

Chocolate Lily

Difficult in many garden situations: Zone 1 in summer/fall

Excellent choice for dry rock garden

Does well with succulents, under oaks

Wonderful choice for containers; store in cool, dry place for summer/fall

Repot most native bulbs/corms every 2-3 years; Chocolate Lily every year in fall

http://www.gardeningstore.co.uk/shop/fritillaria_martha_roderick__323201529Z.aspx

‘Martha Roderick’ cultivar

http://www.sloweather.com/blog/060318choclilies.jpg

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Growing plants in pots allows you to

switch pots during the season

http://www.cnps-yerbabuena.org/gardens/annual_garden_tour.html

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Planting medium for ‘dry, well-drained’

pots A good ‘cactus-mix’ is a

good start:

Commercial cactus mix

Make your own 1 (cacti) 1 part potting mix (not

soil) 1 part washed sand 1 part course gravel

Make your own 2 (other dry natives) 1 part potting mix 1 part coarse sand

(builder’s; ‘leveling’ or granite chicken grit) (washed)

http://www.lasmmcnps.org/plantingtips.html

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If you plan to use several plants in the

same container

Be sure they have the same cultural requirements

Try to have at least 1 plant evergreen

Try for 4-season interest

When mixing several types, consider plant height. Place low or cascading plants like Monardella at the container's edge, slightly taller ones just inside, and tallest plants in the center.

http://groups.ucanr.org/slosson/documents/2005-200610656.pdf

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Red Monardella – Monardella macrantha

© 2001 CDFA

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Red Monardella – Monardella macrantha

http://ucjeps.berkeley.edu/cgi-bin/get_JM_treatment.pl?Monardella+macrantha

South Coast Ranges, Transverse Ranges, Peninsular Ranges; ssp hallii - San Gabriel Mountains,

San Bernardino Mountains, Peninsular Ranges.

Other names: Red Mountainbalm; Hummingbird Monardella

native to chaparral, woodland and forest habitats

Has a reputation for being difficult to grow

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The genus Monardella

20 species native to western North America.

Commonly known as wildmints, coyote mints or monardellas.

Highly aromatic foliage; some species used for herbal teas.

Two-lipped, tubular flowers in terminal clusters; usually red, pink, or purple.

Caterpillar (moth and Butterfly) foodplants

Special needs: excellent drainage; cannot take excess winter dampness

http://www.laspilitas.com/butterfl_files/pale_swallowtail_butterfly_

on_a_monardella.jpg

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Two S.CA subspecies

ssp. hallii

© 2004 Bob Allen

ssp. macrantha

© 2002 Charles E. Jones

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Characteristics of Red Monardella

Size:

to 1 ft tall

1-2+ ft wide

Growth form: Herbaceous perennial

Low-growing/sprawling

Foliage: Shiny, dark green leaves

Aromatic; nice for teas

Roots: Forms colonies via rhizomes

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Flowers a magnet for

hummingbirds

Blooms: summer (June-Aug)

Flowers: Large (2”) tubular flowers in

clusters

Color: red to red-orange

Very attractive to hummingbirds and larger butterflies; ‘pulls them from the sky’

Seeds: Many small seeds in dry

capsules

© 1998 California Academy of Sciences

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Plant Requirements Soils: Texture: must be well-

drained

pH: 5.0-7.0

Light: Best in part-shade; sunnier

only with good mulch

Water: Winter:

Needs good soil moisture but not too soggy

Summer: Likes regular water, but let

dry out a bit; about once/wk in a large pot

Fertilizer: none; likes poor soils

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Red Monardella makes a

great container plant

Excellent as a pot plant; will drape over the edges of pot attractively

Be sure to place high enough for protection from cats

Also nice addition to a rock garden; place for fragrance

‘Marion Sampson’ Natural cultivar

forms tight mats of small, dark leaves, with brilliant red flowers. Well suited for rock garden and container use

http://twogardens.blogspot.com/2007/05/some-of-my-favorite-things.html

http://www.elnativogrowers.com/Photographs_page/monmacms.htm

Cultivar : ‘Marion Sampson’

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Red Monardella – not so easy to find…

May be difficult to establish – don’t over-water and provide excellent drainage (cactus mix)

Would do well with other plants of like needs: Penstemon heterophyllus ; Dudleya lanceolata

Well worth the effort; stunning hummingbird plant http://coldcalculation.blogspot.com/2007/10/yerba-buena-nursery.html

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Watering native plants in containers

Containers can dry out very quickly, especially on a concrete patio and/or in full sunlight.

Hand check the soil.

Check containers at least once a day (at least until you get to know the characteristics) and twice on hot, dry, or windy days

If the soil is dry to a depth of one or two inches, then you should water.

Try to water late in the day, if possible, to reduce the stress on the plants.

Consider watering the plants twice.

Soak the mix well, wait a few minutes while you move on to other plants, then water them again.

During the first watering, the water is absorbed very quickly, but it often leaves dry spots or gaps within the potting mix. The second watering fills in those gaps.

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Container-gardening also allows us to

grow water-loving plants – in a limited

fashion

http://arieff.blogs.nytimes.com/2008/03/19/cows-grazing-in-the-rumpus-room/

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You can create a mini-pond in your

garden…complete with pond plants

http://www.penick.net/digging/index.php?s=wildflower+center

Any water-tight container will do: a watertight half wine barrel; large ceramic pots or bowls ; galvanized tubs or horse troughs, etc.

Use ceramic or terra cotta pots set upon bricks or cinderblocks, adjusting them to the level of the top edge of the pond container.

Depending upon the size of your container, you can select about three to five plants for your little "pond".

Be sure you deal with mosquito larva – mosquito fish or chemical means "mosquito dunk"

Relocating a water garden is a challenge. It's best to begin in the right location: in the sun and away from trees and plants dropping debris.

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But perhaps you’d like something a little

less pond-like

http://icps.proboards105.com/index.cgi?board=outdoor&action=display&thread=1174

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The ‘Bog Garden’ has a long gardening tradition

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Troughs and other containers are

excellent choices for mini-bog gardens

Your container should complement your garden design

http://groups.ucanr.org/slosson/documents/2005-200610656.pdf

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Medium for a bog garden is different than

that for other CA native plants

Some typical media mixes: 1/2 potting soil or peat to 1/2

sand 2/3 peat to 1/3 sand. Customize your mix based on

requirements of your species

Premix your medium: add only a little water at a time; mix frequently so sand doesn’t migrate to the bottom

? Use layer of gravel as bottom layer

? Gravel mulch

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Smaller bog gardens can be easily

created with containers.

Use a container at least eight inches deep and twelve inches wide.

Use the same soil mix as described above.

Place a saucer underneath the pot and keep filled with water to allow the soil medium to stay moist.

Remember, smaller containers are difficult to maintain as they dry easily.

http://www.mygardenguide.com/tutorials/pic.html?id=1-173-7.jpg

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http://icps.proboards105.com/index.cgi?board=outdoor&action=display&thread=1174

Careful of watering is important! Your bog is a different ecosystem than other large pots. Soils should be damp but no standing water

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Giant Scouring Rush – Equisetum hyemale ssp. affine

http://www.sbs.utexas.edu/bio406d/images/pics/equ/equisetum_hyemale.htm

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Giant Scouring Rush – Equisetum hyemale ssp. affine

http://www.efloras.org/florataxon.aspx?flora_id=1&taxon_id=233500619

Temperate regions of Europe & Asia.

In the Americas, Alaska and Canada south to Mexico, the Gulf Coast, and Guatemala.

In Ca: California Floristic Province, Warner Mountains, White and Inyo Mountains

Once thought to be many species; now thought to be one, widely distributed species

Horsetails belong to ancient lineage; dominant millions of years before dinosaurs!!

http://ucjeps.berkeley.edu/cgi-bin/get_cpn.pl?EQHYA

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Characteristics of Giant Scouring Rush

Size:

2-4 ft tall

spreading ; can form dense colonies

Growth form: Evergreen herbaceous perennial

Upright, hollow stems

Rough, longitudinal ridges

Foliage: Tiny, tooth-like blackish leaves

Roots: Rhizomes - reproduction

Tubers – food storage

http://www.sbs.utexas.edu/bio406d/images/pics/equ/equisetum_hyemale.htm

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No flowers, but

interesting strobilus

Blooms: usually in S. Bay

Strobilis: the sporangia are visible

underneath each segment of the strobilus (these segments are called

sporophylls)

Spores: cones release spores

from late spring to mid-

summer Spores are microscopic

http://www.sbs.utexas.edu/bio406d/images/pics/equ/equisetum_hyemale.htm

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Equisetums are well suited to moist

container gardening

Soils: Texture: any from sandy

or gravelly muds to clays

pH: any – prefers 6.5 to 7.5

Light: full sun to shady

Water: can tolerate prolonged wet

conditions, but should not be totally submerged nor allowed to dry out

Best in cool moist soils or pots submerged up to 4”

Fertilizer http://www.vanbloem.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/PLANTS.plantDetail/plant_id/363/index.htm

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Serious invasive

potential..so consider

containing it

http://extension.missouri.edu/explore/agguides/pests/ipm1007horsetail.htm http://www.smgrowers.com/products/plants/plantdisplay.asp?plant_id=554

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Garden uses for

Equisetum species

As an attractive pot plant; bog or mini-pool types

For pond margins, pool-side

In small contained areas – along a sidewalk

In fountain bases

For restoration; particularly contaminated sites

http://www.hear.org/starr/hiplants/images/thumbnails/html/equisetum_hyemale.htm

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Great addition to formal gardens

Often included in Japanese gardens

Sets off very modern architecture

Good for commercial settings

http://www.landscapeonline.com/research/article.php?id=4078

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Your own source of scouring/polishing tools

http://www.laprele.net/catalogue/vivaces/photos/equisetum_japonicum.JPG

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Consider pots as

elements of your

garden design

Color Shape Texture Design Even placement

Potted plants can serve as important garden focal points

http://www.gardens-bydesign.com/GBD/container%20garden.JPG

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Basket Rush – Juncus textilis

USDA-NRCS PLANTS Database

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Basket Rush – Juncus textilis

http://ucjeps.berkeley.edu/cgi-bin/get_JM_treatment.pl?Juncus%20textilis

Fairly local endemic: coastal central to S. CA to N. Mexico

Mountain ranges including San Gabriels, San Bernardinos, coastal ranges

On moist or dry soils – seasonally wet

http://www.efloras.org/florataxon.aspx?flora_id=1&taxon_id=222000183

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Characteristics of Basket Rush

Size:

4-6 ft tall

spreading to 10+ ft wide

Growth form: Stout, upright stems

Round and somewhat ‘woodier’ than other Juncus species

Foliage: Light green; may be nearly

evergreen

No leaves

Roots: Stout, creeping rhizomes

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Flowers are fairly typical for rushes

Blooms: usually May-June in our area

Flowers: Flower heads on sides of stems

(typical for Juncus)

Many flowers

Small; more interesting than showy although this is one of the more showy rushes

Seeds: Many small seeds

Important food source for water birds, song birds, small mammals

Vegetative reproduction: via rhizomes

http://www.wnmu.edu/academic/nspages2/gilaflora/scientific.html

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Basket Rush (all rushes) is well suited to

container gardening…

Soils: Texture: any – sandy to clay

pH: acid (5.0) to slightly basic (8.0)

Light: full sun to part shade; fine under Sycamores & even under Oaks

Water: Young plants: keep soils moist but not

flooded until roots are established

Winter: needs good moisture; tolerates flooding

Summer: can tolerate gradual drought; better with some water

Fertilizer: fine; organic fertilizers like leaf mold best

http://www.ecoterralandscape.com/html/coolplant.htm

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Why plant Basket Rush?

An attractive planter plant, particularly with modern architecture;

Great in pots, bog gardens

Often used to stabilize stream banks

Helps to cleanse water; natural filter for heavy metals

As habitat plant: birds, amphibians, fish, other animals

As source for basketry materials

http://www.csusm.edu/indianrock/fieldtrips/fieldtripping/fieldtrip.pdf

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Managing Basket

Rush

Contain it; or with-hold summer water to control growth

Harvest stems regularly: Cut to above the

rhizomes Don’t harvest when

ground is muddy

Cut or burn old patches to stimulate new growth

http://www.csusm.edu/indianrock/fieldtrips/fieldtripping/fieldtrip.pdf

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Juncus textilis in

basketmaking

Favored for straight stems, red-brown color (lower part of stems; best color from plants under trees)

Sometimes dyed black or yellow

Stems split in 3 parts lengthwise

Splines used as sewing material – Common Rush (J. balticus) used for coils

Juncus baskets are tightly woven – often used for food containers, baskets

http://www.csusm.edu/indianrock/fieldtrips/fieldtripping/fieldtrip.pdf

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Yerba Mansa – Anemopsis californica

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Yerba Mansa – Anemopsis californica

http://www.timetotrack.com/jay/dudleyl2.htm

Southwestern U.S. into Mexico

In S. CA: South Coast Ranges,

South Coast, Channel Islands, Peninsular Ranges, White and Inyo Mountains, Mojave Desert

Wet or moist areas, alkali sinks and coastal salt marsh to yellow pine forest, seeps, springs to 5000'

Saururaceae (lizard-tail Family)

http://www.efloras.org/florataxon.aspx?flora_id=1&taxon_id=220000730

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Yerba Mansa in the wild

Gary A. Monroe @ USDA-NRCS PLANTS Database

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Characteristics of

Yerba Mansa Size:

1-2 ft tall: often < 1 ft

2-4 ft wide, spreading

Growth form: Herbaceous perennial; quick-

growing & long-lived

Winter-deciduous

Leaves basal

Foliage: Leaves green, fading to red/purple

in fall

Leaves aromatic when crushed (Eucalyptus/ginger scent

Roots: Strong, rhizomatous roots

Need min. 6” soil depth

Gary A. Monroe @ USDA-NRCS PLANTS Database

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Yerba Mansa flowers are quite unusual

Blooms: Spring-summer bloomer

usually Mar-May in lower elevations of S. CA

Flowers: White ‘petals’ are actually large

bracts

Flowers small (stamens & pistils only), surrounded by white bracts, clustered on upright stalks

100’s of flowers per stalk

Dry red-brown seedpods remain for several months

Seeds: in dry capsules

© 2007 Dr. Raphael Mazor

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Yerba Mansa can be grown from seed

Use fresh seed

Requires warm temperatures

Soak seeds up to 1 wk before planting

Keep soil/seeds moist to promote germination http://www.hazmac.biz/041129/041129AnemopsisCalifornica.html

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The famed Yerba Mansa root

Vegetative reproduction: via rhizomes and stollons runners) spreads fairly readily to form

mat-like colonies Easy to propagate from rooted

cuttings, divisions

Roots are long and cordlike, white and brittle when young, becoming corky and covered in brown bark as they age

Roots very aromatic

Roots have long history of medicinal use: Open sores & skin infections Gout Colds & coughs Many other uses

M. Kat Anderson @ USDA-NRCS PLANTS Database http://www.botgard.ucla.edu/html/botanytextbooks/generalbotany/typesofshoots/stolon/b1085tx.html

http://www.kalyx.com/store/proddetail.cfm/ItemID/666872.0/CategoryID/1000.0/SubCatID/2535.0/file.htm

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Yerba Mansa is a versatile medicine

Roots have antiseptic, antibiotic, and antiviral properties

Can be used in many forms: Taken orally as a tea, tincture, infusion or

dried in capsule form. It can be used externally for soaking

inflamed or infected areas. It can be ground and used as a dusting

powder

Native peoples & settlers took plant with them as a ‘all-round’ medicinal plant

Yerba Mansa also provided food: Root - raw or cooked. An aromatic flavor. The pulverized seeds can be made into

bread or cooked as a mush

http://www.mineralarts.com/cactus/yerbamansa.html

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Plant Requirements Soils: Texture: fine to medium

pH: wide range: 5.0-9.0; Fine in quite alkali & salty

soils

Light: full sun to light shade

Water: Requires wet soil and can

grow in water

suitable for bogs and

water gardens Tolerates occasional drought;

water established patches when leaves droop

Fertilizer: likes humus-rich soils; add leaf mulch

Cut back or mow yearly during

winter dormant period;

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Garden uses for

Yerba Mansa

As an attractive pot plant, particularly for mini ‘bog gardens’

In containers placed in the ground

Around ponds

In water gardens

As a turf substitute or ground cover

Under birdbath or other moist areas of garden http://www.mswn.com/Plant%20Info%20Sheets/Anemopsis%20californica.pdf

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Good garden design applies to mini-bag

gardens as well…

Some evergreen elements

Some vertical elements; some drapers/creepers

Some color; flowers or foliage

Textural interest http://home.utah.edu/~jsg16/page2.htm

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Cardinal Flower – Lobelia cardinalis

http://www.wildflower.org/plants/result.php?id_plant=LOCA2

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Cardinal Flower – Lobelia cardinalis

http://ucjeps.berkeley.edu/cgi-bin/get_JM_treatment.pl?2770,2819,0,2820

Western N. America from Ontario Canada to N. Mexico

In S. CA San Gabriel & San Bernardino

Mountains; Peninsular Ranges; Desert Mountains (Panamint

Mtns)

Wet or seasonally wet areas: Steam bottoms & shores Ditches, Ravines, Depressions,

swamps Woodland edges; meadows

Its common name alludes to the bright red robes worn by Roman Catholic cardinals

Like all Lobelias, foliage is toxic when eaten

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Cardinal Flower: a garden perennial

Size:

2-6 (usually 2-4) ft tall

2-3 ft wide

Growth form:

Herbaceous perennial; winter dormant

Upright growth

Short-lived but re-seeds well

Foliage: Leaves: most basal, alternate

Light to deep green; often with bronze tinge

http://www.wildflower.org/plants/result.php?id_plant=LOCA2

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Flowers are out of this

world

Blooms: summer (May to Oct; usually May-July in S. CA

Flowers: Striking, ‘lobelia-type’ flowers

Bright to carmine red; like nothing else

In dense spikes that look like spires of flame

Really showy; nothing like it

An amazing hummingbird flower

Seeds: many small seeds in dry capsules

http://www.wildflower.org/plants/result.php?id_plant=LOCA2

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Nathaniel Hawthorne

penned a fitting tribute

to the cardinal flower...

"The world is made brighter and sunnier by flowers of such a hue ... it arrays itself in this scarlet glory. It is a flower of thought and feeling, too; it seems to have its roots deep down in the hearts of those who gaze at it."

The cardinal flower was widely used in Europe by 1629; many European cultivars

http://www.mobot.org/gardeninghelp/plantfinder/Plant.asp?code=D940

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Cardinal Flower likes special treatment

… at least in our area

Soils: Texture: any, even clays

pH: any (4.0-8.0)

Light: best in light shade or filtered sunlight

Water: Needs moist soil; regular water

Can even grow in water

Fertilizer Likes a rich, humus soil

Enrich soil/medium with leaf mulch

Other: intolerant of wind http://www.mobot.org/gardeninghelp/plantfinder/Plant.asp?code=D940

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Given moist conditions, Cardinal Flowers are easy to

manage

Be sure that winter mulches don’t cover the plant; danger of winter rot

Divide clumps every three years

Let plants reseed on bare ground; plants may be short-lived but tend to produce adequate seedlings

For more abundant blooms, cut back first flowering stalk, then lightly fertilize

http://www.wildflower.org/plants/result.php?id_plant=LOCA2

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Cardinal Flower is a

great Zone 3 plant…

Great candidate as a container plant; bog garden plant

Moist meadow, rain garden, anywhere that gets a little extra water

Flowers make nice cut flowers

Fine at back of conventional (regularly watered) beds

http://www.wildflower.org/plants/result.php?id_plant=LOCA2

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Musk Monkeyflower – Mimulus moschatus

J.S. Peterson @ USDA-NRCS PLANTS Database

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Musk Monkeyflower – Mimulus moschatus

http://ucjeps.berkeley.edu/cgi-bin/get_JM_treatment.pl?7177,7386,7426

Plant of western N. America, from British Columbia to N. Mexico

In CA: California Floristic Province Wet places to 7500' Streambanks, moist meadows

and seeps Closed-cone Pine Forest,

Freshwater Marsh, Mountain Meadow, Redwood Forest, Riparian (rivers & creeks) and Yellow Pine Forest.

Now also naturalized in Eastern U.S, Europe

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Musk Monkeyflower: a small plant of damp

places Size:

usually < 1 ft tall

1-2+ ft wide

Growth form:

Herbaceous perennial

Low-growing; creeping

Foliage: Very hairy, sticky, even slimy

Musky-sweet smell

Leaves simple; coarsely-toothed

Roots: well-developed rhizomes; stems may also root where they touch ground

© Jamie Fenneman

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Flowers are small but

sweet……..

Blooms: summer usually May-Aug. in S. CA

Flowers: solitary on long stem

Small (usually ½” or so)

Bright yellow; occasionally with red stripes or dots

5 lobes almost equal sized

Seeds: Numerous & tiny (like dust)

In dry, papery capsule

© Virginia Skilton

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Plant Requirements Soils:

Texture: any; even heavy clays, sandy soils

pH: any local

Light: Light to partial shade best

Full sun only if soils are kept moist

Water: Prefers moist soils, damp or

boggy spots

Can even grow in shallow water

Fertilizer: likes humus-rich soils

© 2004, Ben Legler

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Musk Monkeyflower: another Zone 3

flowering plant

Wonderful as a pot plant; keep pot in a saucer of water to keep soils moist

Good for pond & pool edges; near fountains

Any moist, shady spot in the garden

Even consider for vegetable garden; young foliage is edible

© 2004, Ben Legler

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Container gardens allow us to create the

conditions needed by selected plants

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Growing plants in containers allows you to control

the medium, fertility & soil moisture

Water retention: Improve drainage

Improve retention

Medium fertility: Decrease fertility

Increase fertility with regular fertilization

Supply specific nutrients

Alter pH

Watering schedule:

http://groups.ucanr.org/slosson/documents/2005-200610656.pdf

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Let’s look for inspiration in the gardens