cooking in old creole days 1904

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LA C U I S I N E C R É O L E À L U SA GE

D E S P E T I T S M E N A G E S

I

L IO

S

TRATE

BY HARPER PENNINGTON.



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C O P Y R I G H T 1 9 0 3

B Y C E L E S T I N E E U S T I S



DEDICACE

Si ce petit ouvrag e peut être utile à m es chers

neveu x et chères nièces, ]'aurais la satisfaction de

savoir que m on temps n'a pas été perdu, en récla-

man t toute l'indulgence du public pour avoir abusé

de sa patience.



I N D E X

C O O K I N G I N O L D C R E O L E D A Y S

Art and Scien ce of Sa lad Car rots,

44

Making,

69

Ch icken Bro th, 12

Asparagus in the Oven,

46

Chicken Casserole ,

30

Asparagus Soup,

47

Chic ke n Cr o qu e t t e s ,

32

A To d d H a m ,

20

Chic ke n P a n a d e ,

12

Aun t An ne's Corn - Br ead ,

Chicken Pie ,

32

wit ho u t po wd e r ,

52

Chinese Rice ,

14

Aunt Anne's del ic ious Corn-

Chocolate Ic ing,

68

Bread, 52

Chowder for e ight Persons,

11

A u n t A n n e ' s H o e c a ke ,

53

Cl a r e t P u n c h,

83

Balt imore s ty le of making

Codfish à la l 'Espagnole ,

26

Te r r a pin St e w wi t ho u t

Codfish Bal ls ,

25

Terrapin,

24

Codfish Cakes ,

25

Barley Soup w ith Celery , 6

Cold Tea,

49

Beef Tea,

12

C o m m o n C a k e ,

65

Biscuits made over night ,

51

Corn Bread,

54

Black Be an Sou p, 10

Corn Cake,

54

Blanquette of Veal ,

34

Corn Meal Bread,

55

Bo n n e F e m m e So u p, 8 Corn Oysters , 48

Bouil lon à la James Madison,

4

Corn Pone,

54

Bread,

78

Corn Pudding,

60

Brisket of Beef,

19

Couche Couche,

55

Bu c kn e r P u n c h,

83

Courtbouil lon of Fish,

27

Café Parfa it ,

84

Cr a b G u m bo ,

3

Cal f ' s Head Soup,

10

Crawfish Bisque,

4

Calf 's Liver à la Céleste

Cream à la Célestine,

56

Smith,

35

Crème d 'Orge,

I

Candied Orange, 61 Cu c u m be r Ca t s u p, 37

Ca n va s ba c k D u c k,

3 0

Custard Bread,

61

Caramel Pudding,

58

Daube Glacée,

17



Oyster and Peanut Soup,

9

Spiced Beef ,

36

Oyster Soup, 9 Spin a c h, 45

Pancakes,

56

Squ a s h,

44

P a r t r id ge à l a "U n c l e J o hn ,"

28

St e we d To n gu e f o r L u n c h,

37

Plain Boiled Rice,

13

St r a wbe r r y Sho r t c a ke ,

64

Plain Rice Pudding,

60 Str ing Beans,

45

Plum Pudding,

58

Stuff ing for Fowls ,

29

Pop-Overs,

54

St u f f in gs f o r Tu r ke y s a n d

Porcupine Pudding,

59

D u c ks ,

28

Potato Balls ,

28

Swedish Cream,

58

Pot au Feu, 5 Swe e t P o t a t o Bu n s , 55

Potomac Herr ings with Roe,

26

Sw eet Po tatoe s , 37 ,

38

Potted Veal ,

2

3

Swe e t P o t a t o P u d d in g ,

38

Praline Cocoanut,

62

Swe e t W a f e r s ,

67

Praline Pecans,

62

Te r r a pin ,

23

Raw Beef Soup,

12

Te r r a pin St e w,

23

Riz à la Valencienne,

15

The way to te l l good Mush-

Roast Beef ,

18

rooms from poisonous ones,

47

Rolls,

50

Thic k W a t e r B is c u i t s ,

52

Sally Lu nn , 53,

54

Thin W a t e r B is c u i t s ,

51Sauce, à la Newburg, for To boi l a W estp hal ia Ham , 20

Lobster,

27

To broi l a Steak,

19

Sauce Béarnaise ,

34

To c o o k a n d s e r ve To m a -

19

Sauce Bordelaise,

35

toes,

38

Sauce for Wild Duck,

35

T o m a t o C u r r y ,

22

Sauce for Veal Balls ,

36

T o m a t o e s ,

57

Simple, c lear Tomato Soup,

7

T o m a t o S o u p ,

7

Smal l Sponge Cake,

66

To s t e w L a m b a n d P e a s ,

21

Soda Biscuits,

50

Tu r ke y St u f f in g ,

29

Soft Custard, 57 Veal Croquettes , 22

Sorrel Soup,

6

Ve a l Te r r a pin ,

24

Soufflé Biscuits,

52

Waff les ,

50

Soup without Meat ,

8

Y o r k s hir e P u d d in g , t o s e r ve

So u t he r n To m a t o So u p,

7

wit h H o t Ro a s t Be e f ,

18

U N P I T I D I N E C R E O L E A U X D E L E G U E S D E N E W O R L E A N S P R E S S

C L O B

A S M A L L C R E O L E D I N N E R T O T H E D E L E G A T E S O F T H E N E W

O R L E A N S P R E S S C L U B

87



I L L U S T R A T I O N S

A Y O U N G D A R I N G F R O G D R I V E R O N T H E D U B R O C A P L A N -

T A T I O N , W E S T B A T O N R O U G E , L A Frontispiece

B A M B O U L A

Facing p.

I O

T U R K E Y W I T H T H E W O O D E N L E G S " 2 2

N U R S E M E R A N C E O F T H E D E S T R E H A N P L A N T A T I O N , J U S T

A B O V E N E W O R L E A N S " 3 2

T H E O N E - E Y E D B O Y A N D H I S O N I O N S T E A L " 4 8

S A V A N N E " 6 4

T H E C A L L A S G I R L " 9 4

T H E O L D F R E N C H C H E F S E L L I N G M U S T A R D IN N E W O R -

L E A N S " I 0 8



C O O K I N G I N O L D C R E O L E D A Y S



C O O K I N G IN O L D C R E O L E D YS

G U M B O F I L E

P u t into a casserole (sau cep an) a spoonfu l of p ure

lard and one of flour, stir it well until it is of a light brown.

Chop an onion into small pieces and thro w them in. Cu t up

a fat capon or chicken into small pieces and put these

in the casserole w ith th e flour an d lard. S tir it all

the wh ile until the chicken is nea rly done. W he n the

whole is well browned, add a slice of ham, cut up small.

Throw in two or three pods of red pepper, and salt to your

taste. N ow ad d a qu art of boiling w ate r, and leave it on

the fire fo r tw o ho urs and a half. A qua rter of an hour

before dinner is served add three dozen oysters with their

liquor. Ju st be fo re ta ki ng the soup off th e fire, put in a

tablespo onfu l of filet, st irr in g it all the while. L et it boil

one m inute and then serve. D o not put in too much filet;

the spoon should not be full. Inde ed, half a tablesp oon ful

is enough.

— L O U I S E L I V I N G S T O N H U N T New Orleans

C R E M E D O R G E

One pound of lean veal, one pound of lean beef, and two

ounces of pearl barley. P u t them into a qu art of cold w ater

and let it boil do w n to a pin t. R ub all th ro ug h a sieve.

Melt a spoonful of this s trengthening jelly when required.

G U M B O F I L E

D isjoin t and cut up a fow l. F ry in pan with onion cut

up. P u t in a soup pot knuck le of veal, frie d fow l covered in

i



3 1 - 2 quarts of cold wa ter, let i t s imm er on back of ran ge

about six hours, strain soup and skim off all grease, cut up

white meat of chicken and put in stock with a quart or

more of oysters, add salt, cayenne pepper, white pepper.

When at boil ing point sprinkle in, or s i ft in, powdered

filet en ou gh to thick en it. _

M r s E u g e n i a P h i l l i p s

.

For very many years Mrs. Phil l ips had the most ele-

gant table and the most delicious dishes in Washington,

D . C. N o one could riva l her in taste and dain tiness; her

hospitality was boundless.

Leek and potato soup is another of the same French-

w om an 's dishes. C ut several leeks, or, if they cannot be

had, an onion or two, into pieces, and fry them without

br ow nin g in butter. A d d potatoes cut into dice and a

season ing of salt and pepper, and boil. W h en they are

soft push them through a colander, and thicken with a

tablespoo nful of flour and a tablespo onful of butter. F o r

two small onions four potatoes and a quart of water will

be wan ted. Instead of using the wa ter in which the pota-

toes have boiled, milk may be used.

O K R A G U M B O

Put into a saucepan a spoonful of pure lard and one of

flour. S tir it w ell un til it is of a ligh t brow n. C ho p an

onion into small pieces and thro w them in. Cu t up a fat

capon or chicken into small pieces and put it into the sauce-

pan w ith the flour and lard. S tir it all the w hile until the

chicken is nea rly done. W h e n the wh ole is well brow ned ,

add a slice of ham cut up small. T hr ow in tw o or three

pods of red pepp er, and salt to you r taste. T h en add a

quart of boiling water, and leave it on the fire for two

hou rs and a half. D u ri n g that time you take either a



can of okra or the fres h ok ra, and chop it up a bit. P u t

it in a saucepan with a little water and let it simmer a

quarter of an hou r, stir rin g it all the time. T h en add to

it either six fresh tomatoes, or half a can of tomatoes, and

let it cook on a slow fire fo r an hou r, unco vered. W h en

your gumbo has been on the f ire the two hours and a half ,

you take it off to cool, and skim all the gre ase off. T he n

you put it back in the saucepan and add your okra and

tomatoes and let it simmer slowly for an hour or until the

okra is thor ou ghly cooked . Se rv e hot, and eat it with dry

rice served in a separate dish. _

M m £ E u s t i

^

C R A B G U M B O

Take half a pound of nice veal, cut it in slices; or take

half a chicken, w hic h yo u cut in small pieces. B ro w n it

well, as yo u do fo r the gu m bo filet. L et it simm er on the

.fire an ho ur and a ha lf. P ick v er y ca re fu lly twelv e or

fifteen crabs, ke ep ing the flesh only. W a r m them up in a

separate saucepan with a spoonful of butter for a few

minutes. P ou r it then in you r pot over you r veal. A d d a

few small pieces of fried ham . Sea son w ith salt and pepper

to taste. B ef o re you m ix the veal and crabs take out all

the large pieces of veal, so that the crabs may predominate,

It should be of a thick consistency . Se rv e hot, w ith dry

rice m a separa te is .

— J O S E P H I N E N I C A U D ,

New Orleans

H E R B G U M B O

Clean and prepare a good handful of fresh spinach

leaves, a handful of beetroot leaves, a handful of radish

leaves, a handful of mustard leaves, a handful of patience

leaves, one head of lettuce. T h ro w them in hot wate r

and let them boil like spinach, then let them drip in a



colander, chop them all together on a nice clean board,

as you do spinach. F r y a dozen small pieces of ham

cut in pieces an inch long and half an inch wide,

and also ha lf a chick en cut in pieces, or a piece of

veal, say half a pound. A d d a cup of wa ter and let i t

simm er three quarters of an hou r or until al l are soft . T h en

add you r herbs. L et them simm er togethe r for a quarter

of an hour. If i t looks too thick add a fe w tablespoon fuls

of wa ter. It m ust ha ve the cons istency of a thick puree.

To be served hot, and eaten with dry rice.

— J O S E P H I N E N I C A U D .

C R A W F I S H B I S Q U E

Take two or three dozen crawfish, throw them in boi l ing

water for a minute or two , c lean them thoroug hly. T ak e

off the heads, empty them, and clean them and wash them,

keep ing the fat part of the tai ls. P u t them on a chopping

board with the fat, a little chicken or veal, a little stale

bread, chop it all fine together, flavor with pepper, red or

black, a laurel leaf, or put in a bouquet of aromatic herbs

for a few minutes, having tied it with a thread so as to

pull i t out. B ro w n all this in a saucepan w ith a spoonful

of lard. Stu ff the craw fish heads tight with this. P u t

them in a saucepan to simmer with a quart of bouillon for

an hour or mo re, unti l yo u hav e a goo d soup. Ser ve hot.

— M M E . J O SE P H IN E N I C A U D ,

Wh o has been for over forty years in Ambassador Eu stis' family.

B O U I L L O N A L A J A M E S M A D I S O N

Two gal lons of water, throw in every bone you have

(ham bones are excellent), with three good sized carrots,

three onions, celery, a can of tom atoes. Sa lt and pepper

pod to taste. Sim m er, closely covere d, all day and all nig ht .



Th e next m orn ing strain into a larg e bow l. I f in a hurry

set bowl in cold water, otherwise put in cellar or on ice.

Rem ove the gre ase ve ry car efu lly. C u t up fine, size of dice,

three pounds of rump of beef, take two eggs and break

them over the cut m eat, yolk and w hite. St ir freely .

Add celery, salt and pepper, pour the bouillon on it, settle

it on the fire, stir un til the fro th rises. S k im off ve ry care-

fully, strain off thro ug h a nice clean cloth or flannel. Se t

aside for use. W he n ready to serve, w arm the quantity

desired, throw in small pieces of celery, cover closely, throw

a bunch of chervil and a glass of good sherry in the soup

accord ing to taste. ,

f

.

T

—Cook , born in James Madison s family.

P O T A U F E U

T H E P O T A U F E U IS S E R V E D D A I L Y I N F R E N C H F A M I L I E S

Take two pounds of round of beef, cutting off a l l the

fat very carefully, put it in a good sized saucepan, add cold

water enough to cover the meat well, put the lid on half

way to allow the steam to evaporate, let it simmer by a fire

of live coals an hour, and skim carefully as the scum arises.

While your broth is cooking, prepare your vegetables, have

them nice and fresh, wash and scrape carefully (requisite

care must be taken), throw them into a pan of cold water

until the time to use them. C ut three carrots in ha lf, too

leeks the same way, or half an onion, a small piece of cab-

bage and a bit of garlic, a piece of celery, parsley and pepper

pod. P u t all these veg etab les in you r broth, ad din g tw o

or three tomatoes, or two spoonfuls of tomatoes; let it

s imm er fo r tw o hours, skim m ing it carefully . I t can be

served w ith or w itho ut vegetables. W itho ut vegetables

it can be served as bouillon, to which you add rice, vermicelli,

macaroni, or any other Italian paste, or bread dried in the



oven, or drop in a poached egg, one for every person, if

your dinner is a little short.

These receipts were given to me by an old colored cook

who was brought up in James Madison's family , and she

said they were served on Mr. Madison's table when he en-

tertained the distinguished guests of his day.

S O R R E L S O U P

Take a handful of sorrel , cook it ten minutes in a spoon-

ful of fresh butter, add a quart of water, salt and pepper,

and let it simm er half an hou r ov er a slow fire. St ir in

white of an egg, and then let it cook two minutes only,

stirrin g it al l the time. Ru b in a cup the yolk of an eg g

w ith a small piece of butter. A d d a cup of cream. P ut

some pieces of stale bread cut in slices in the bottom of

yo ur soup tureen. Ch op fine some chervil and sprinkle on

top just as you serve it very hot.

_

L

E O N I E P E N I N .

B A R L E Y S O U P W I T H C E L E R Y

Melt a heaping spoonful of fresh butter in a fry ing-pan;

put to it a cupful of barley; let it brown a few moments;

add to it tw o qu arts of goo d broth, and salt to taste. L et

it simmer two hours or more on a slow fire;.chop into it

small pieces of ce ler y— let it simmer half an hour. D is-

solve in a gla ssf ul of sweet cream the yolks of six eg gs ,

a spoonful of fresh butter added in small pieces, and add

all to the soup.

O K R A S O U P

Soak in a l ittle cold water for an hour or two one pint

of the dried okra, add this with the water to one gallon

of good strong beef stock. A lso one quart of tom atoes,

(strained thro ug h a colande*^ half cup ful of r ice, and one



pint of chopped Irish potatoes. Sea son wit h salt, green

pepper, or cayen ne, chopped celery and onion . Bo il in a

porcelain kettle at least five hours, stirring frequently

with a silver spoon, or new wooden spoon, or the soup

will become dark. T h e gallon mu st be m aintained by add-

ing boil ing w ater at intervals as required. T hi s should

result in a rich, thick soup, such as is liked in the South.

Some cooks prefer to boil meat and vegetables together,

removing the meat when tender, cutting it into pieces, and

returning it to the soup a few minutes before serving.

— M R S . W I L L I A M C . H I L L .

S I M P L E , C L E A R , T O M A T O S O U P

Boil your tomatoes with onion and butter thoroughly.

Add to clear stock, or broth, half of white of egg to clear.

Let it stand, then pass through cheesecloth that has been

washed. %

T O M A T O S O U P

Cut one ounce of ham, a little carrot and onion into

thin slices, place these in a stewpan with two ounces of

butter, one bay leaf and a fe w peppercorn s. A d d tw o

tablespoonfuls of flour, stir together on the fire until it

becomes a l ight bro wn color. M oisten w ith a quart of

good broth, or stock, stir rin g it on a slow fire. A d d one

quart of canned tomatoes, and season with salt, pepper and

two ounces of bro w n sugar. L et it boil together for one

hour, after being thoroughly strained.

S O U T H E R N T O M A T O S O U P

Southern tom ato soup is a meal in i tself. W a sh tw o

quarts of tomatoes, and set over the fire in three pints of

water; cook ten minutes, and drain, saving the water for



the soup; press the tomatoes through a sieve, add to them

one cucumber, peeled and cut small, one large onion sliced,

one dozen okras (also sliced), a f ive cent marrowbone and

the w ater drained fro m the tomatoes. Sim m er fo r three

hours, and just before sending to table thicken with a

tablespoo nful of f lour w et w ith cold wa ter. Season with

salt, cayenne and three pats of butter.

B O N N E F E M M E S O U P

Shred f ine a cucumber (already soaked) and four let-

tuce, one onion and a ha nd ful of chervil . P u t these into

a soup pot, with two pats of butter, a l i tt le nutmeg, pepper,

and salt. Sim m er ov er a slow fire abou t ten m inutes, then

add a good spoonful of flour, and three pints of veal broth.

Bo il fo r a quarter of an hou r. St ir into it a season ing

of six yolks of eggs, half a pint of cream and a dessert-

spoo nful of sugar . D o not let i t boil af ter the e g g and

cream are added.

S O U P W I T H O U T M E A T

Take four or f ive cucumbers, according to their size,

pare and cut them in small square pieces; three cupfuls of

lettuce cut in shreds, two sprigs of mint, a little parsley,

two or three small onions (all shredded), with a pint of

yo u n g peas. P u t all these herbs into a stewpan, w ith

nearly a quarter of a pound of butter, some salt, and a little

cayenne pepper. T h e y mu st stew gently for an hour. B oil

a pint of old peas in a full quart of water. W h e n q uite

soft run them through a sieve, with a wooden spoon, then

add them, together with the water they have been boiled in,

to your stewed herbs, and let them all stew together a full

half hour. T h is so up is all the better if it does not stan d

long before it is served im.



O Y S T E R A N D P E A N U T S O U P

Take half a pound of shelled and roasted peanuts, well

pounded. A d d tw o spoon fuls of flour, m ix we ll , boil a

pint of oyster water and mix with the peanuts and flour,

let i t thicken slowly for f i fteen minutes, stirring all the

time. A d d a pint of oyster s and let them cook five minutes.

Flavor with salt , red and black pepper.


O Y S T E R S O U P

Wash and drain two quarts of oysters, put them on the

fire with three quarts of water, three onions chopped up,

tw o or three slices of lean ham , pepper and salt. B oil

until i t is reduced one ha lf , strain thro ug h a sieve. Re turn

the liquid into the pot. P u t in one qu art of fres h oysters.

Boil until they are sufficiently done and thicken the soup

with four spoonfuls of f lour, two gil ls of rich cream, and

the yolk s of tw o nice fres h eg gs , w ell beaten. Bo il i t a

few minutes aft er the thickening is put in. T ak e care

that it does not curdle, and that the flour is not in lumps.

Serv e it up w ith the last oys ters that w ere put in. If the

flavor of thyme is agreeable you may put in a little, but

take care that it does not boil in it long enough to discolor

T H E S 0 U

P ' - M A R Y R A N D O L P H .

N E W O R L E A N S O Y S T E R S O U P

M ak e "a br ow n. " A brow n is . made by putt ing a lump

of butter or lard into a saucepan, adding flour, and stirring

until it becom es a rich brow n, but is not burned. A d d to

you r brow n, salt and pepper. T a k e a quart of oy sters,

separate them fro m their wa ter. A d d a pint of fresh w ater

to you r brow n, then put in the oyster water, let i t simm er



B A M B O U L A

G o t t s c h a l k ' s f a m o u s

0 4

B a m b o u l e " w a s w r i t t e n o n t h i s t h e m e



small squares about the size of dice, and fry quite brown.

Lay in the same pan alternate layers of thin sliced potatoes

first, then slices of fish, then broken water crackers, small

fried pork, shreds of raw onion, black pepper and salt to

suit the taste. Co ntin ue the layer s until yo u hav e used up

you r m aterial. P ou r ove r it the pork fat fro m the scraps

and half a pint of water, to keep from burning at the bot-

tom. Clo se the saucepan tigh t and set on the fire. Co ok

slowly, without stirring, for forty-five minutes, when it is

ready fo r the table. A s some fish cook drier than others, if

you do not find the chowder thin enough to serve well in

tureen, add some fresh milk just before taking up, and let

it come to a boil.

— P A R K E R H O U S E , Boston, Sept. 2 3 , 1 8 7 3 .

C H O W D E R F O R E I G H T P E R S O N S

Boil, mash and pass through a colander six potatoes.

Slice and fry brow n six onions. So ak quite so ft tw o ship

biscuits. F r y fo u r slices of salt po rk, the fa t cut in small

dice. C u t in pieces abou t an inch thick three or fo ur

pounds of fish, either cod or sea bass, or blackfish, which

are the bes t; then proceed as fo l lo w s: Pu t in your pot

four tablespoonfuls of butter, and two of salt, scatter a

portion of the fried onion in it, then a layer of fish, free

from bones, season with a teaspoonful of black pepper, half

teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, half of cloves, add a bouquet

of thym e, then pu t in a laye r of potatoes. Rep eat the sam e

operation, lea vin g out the spice and thyme. T he n pour in

stock enough to cover the whole about four inches, place

on the fire, add the biscuit and pork, and three tablespoon-

fuls of chopped par sley, and cook slow ly for an hour. Th en

add the juic e of a lemon, and five lumps of suga r. Co lor

the soup a dark b row n. W he n ready to serve add a tumbler

of sherry. —Compliments of M R . P E T E R M A R I E .



C H I C K E N P A N A D E

Boil a large fowl in a quart and a half of water, and

boil do w n to a quart. Sk im the fo w l and pound it, bones

and all, in a m ortar. Spre ad this paste in a sieve and rub

it thro ug h. T he n pour ov er it the l iquor in w hich the

fowl was boiled, and pour the mixture hot over a stale

Fre nch rol l, wel l grated. T ak e a l it tle frequently through -

out the day.

R A W B E E F S O U P

O ne poun d of chipped beef. P u t into a preserve ja r

with four ounces of water and four drops of muriatic acid

poured ove r it. P ut the top do w n tigh t, shake, and put

on the ice for twelve hours, then put the jar into a pan of

cold water (bain-Marie) and put it on the f ire for an hour

until the water is hot, then strain the contents of the jar

off with pressure through a cloth, and put it on the ice

un til it is cold. T a k e it off the ice and let it stand ten m in-

utes befo re serv ing. Sa lt to taste.

C H I C K E N B R O T H

Take a chicken or fowl (small pieces of the former

m ake the broth ver y go o d) and break the bones. Clean

it ca refu lly. P u t it into a saucepan with two quarts of

water, a very small onion, a l i tt le salt , and two tablespoon-

fu ls of rice. W h e n it boils skim and cover closely, and let

it simmer slowly for six hours, i f a fowl; i f a chicken, for

fi\e hours.

— J

E F F E R S 0 N

COOLIDGE.

B E E F T E A

T hr ee pound s of lean beef. Cu t out all the fat and

gristle, put it in a covered ^«^Dan, with one clove, and a



lump of ice, the size of your fist, in the centre of the beef,

and the rem aind er of the beef laid ove r it. L e t it stand

back on the range and simmer until all the juice is extracted,

then let it ha ve one boil up. O n ly season as m uch as you

intend us ing at once. T h e remaind er can be kept on ice

and seasoned as required with salt, pepper, celery salt, or

to suit the taste of the patient.

J U M B A L L A Y A A L A C R E O L E

Add to a cupful of rice, which has boiled five minutes,

a rich brown chicken fricassee, put it in a saucepan, not

closely covered , let it dry slow ly, turn w ith a for k. T h e

Carolinians make different perlous prepared in the same

w ay by ad ding cooked tomatoes and butter. Green peas

with a l itt le butter is delicious. O k ra and tom atoes fried

together and add ed to rice. O ys ter s a l itt le fried in butter.

Hopping John is made in the same way with small pieces of

fried ham, fr ied sausages, to which you add some cow peas

that have been partial ly boi led. Season high ly. T h e St .

Domingo Congris i s l ike the Hopping John.

P L A I N B O I L E D R I C E

Take a cup of the best South Carolina rice (whole) .

Wash it three times in cold water until the water is clear.

The fourth time wash it in hot water, put it in a saucepan

with enough hot water to cover it , salt it , and cover closely.

Le t it boil fro m five to ten minutes. Te st it w ith you r

fingers. If cook ed, pour off the wa ter, add to it a quarter

cupful of cold water, cover closely, and set awhile on the

stove to soak. If yo u fear its cling ing to the saucepan

stir it w ith a fo rk , not a spoon. Y o u r rice w ill soak and

dry beauti ful ly.



J U M B A L L A Y A

T a k e a goo d sized chicken. Cu t it as fo r fried chicken,

season it with salt and pepper, and fry in a spoonful of

lard. Cu t up half a pou nd of ham in pieces an inch long ,

and fr y in the same pan. W h e n that is fried, take out and

in the same lard fry a spoonful of onions cut very fine.

Slice up three large tomatoes, or two spoonfuls of canned

tomatoes, and fr y them in the same pan. C ut up a l ittle

parsley and add wh en eve ryth ing is fr ied. Pu t back your

ham and chicken and add two and a half cupfuls of water.

Let it come to a boil , and then add a cupful of well washed

rice. Pu t it ag ain on a quick fire. W h en the rice is

cooked, and the steam begins to rise, put it on a slow fire

and add a teasp oon ful of butter. If you fea r it m ay burn

at the bottom of the pot, use a fork, not a spoon, as the

latter ma kes the rice so gg y. L et it soak or dry th oro ug hly.

If it does not dry fast enough, put for a moment in the

oven.

T

~

— L Y D I A E U S T I S .

R I Z A L A V A L E N C I E N N E

Make a nice brown fricassee, with a good sized fowl

high ly f lavored; let it simm er fo r tw o hou rs. M ak e about

a pint of tomato sauce, adding to it red and green peppers.

It must have cooked two hours. M ix i t w ith the chicken

fricassee, let it simm er toge ther . T a k e a cup of best Ca ro-

lina rice, prepare it as for boiling in hot water for five

minutes. U s e a tureen or d ish that will go to the fire,

put in it your chicken, then the rice on top, add two or

three spoonfuls of the best olive oil , put it in a moderately

hot oven, watching it closely; i f it gets dry baste it with

a few spo onfu ls of broth on top but do not stir it. A rt i-

chokes m ay be added to it. Se rv e at table in the tureen.

W armed over the next '

* 5

even better.



butter, salt and a little powdered mustard and put it in

the oven un til there is a nice crus t on top. Gr ated cheese

of any kind may be added, or a few tablespoonfuls of well

cooked tomatoes, or a few tablespoonfuls of Italian mush-

rooms stirred up with chicken livers, or the remnants of

pâte dé foie gras, or chopped ham or salt tongue, in fact

almost anything that will give it a nice relish.

D A U B E G L A C É E

Take five or six pounds of the round of beef, two inches

thick. T w o day s be fore co ok ing it, lard it w ith strips of

lard half an inch thick and three inches lon g. T ie it in a

round w ith a string , not too tigh t. Sea son w ith salt, and

black and red pepper, and put in a good pinch of saltpetre.

Le t you r lar din g be almo st an inch and a half apart. R ub

up your daube with an onion and whatever fal ls from the

seasoning. P u t it aw ay in a china tureen in a cool place

for twe nty-fo ur hours. Ea rly the ne xt day take one of

these thick, black saucepans and put in the bottom of it a

piece of p ig skin the size of the saucepan. P u t in a

bouquet of thyme, parsley, two laurel leaves, one onion,

and a small piece of gar lic. T a k e three ca lf 's feet that

have been cut in halves by the butcher, lay them on top of

the bouquet, and add half a cu pfu l of meat juice. L et it

simmer on a slow fire for half an hour, then add enough

water to al low the calf 's feet to s immer very s lowly for

five or six hours, until the bones detach themselves from the

meat, the gravy to be tested with the fingers until it has

a gelatinous consistenc y. T h e pot mu st be closely covered,

and a weight put on the cover so that it touches the meat.

The calf 's feet must be boiled before they are put in the

daube, and that gelatinous water used when your daube is

cooked. P u t it in a clean tureen to take a round for m .



T O M A T O C U R R Y

A tomato curry is an excellent accompaniment to baked

veal . M ix a tablespoonful of curry powder with a quart of

cooked and seasoned tomatoes; put this in a dish, with alter-

nate layers of uncooked rice, using a cupful of the latter in

all; let the top layer be of bread crumbs; dot with butter,

and bake an hour or until the rice is done.

V E A L C R O Q U E T T E S

M ince you r veal f ine. M ix one half cupful milk with

one teaspoonful of flour, a piece of butter the size of an

e g g , cook until it thickens. St ir into it the me at. Ro ll

into balls. D ip in e g g w ith a little m ilk stirred in. R oll

in brow ned bread crumb s. F r y in hot lard.

N I C E C O L D D I S H F O R L U N C H , T O B E

E A T E N W I T H S A L A D

Boil a good sized chicken with onion, salt and parsley,

(cove r c losely) for tw o hours. A d d a knuckle of veal .

Put enough water to cover your meat, and let it simmer

an hour more. T ak e out you r chicken wh en you put in

yo ur veal, and cut it up in half inch squares. W h e n y ou r

stock is read y, season we ll w ith salt and pepper. P u t

your chicken in a mold with three hard boiled eggs, cut

in halves, small pieces of ham or tongue, chicken livers,

etc. A rr a n g e it as directed in the mold. P ou r the stock

over it , and place to cool in the ice box, remembering that

when you turn the mold out to serve, the bottom will be

on top. T h is dish can be mad e ve ry attractive by c olo rin g

the jelly w ith toma to juice. _

M m e E U S T I S ) M e r e



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T U R K E Y W I T H T H E W O O D E N L E G S



P O T T E D V E A L

T h e livers to be we ll larded. P u t in stewpa n with

lard, onion, carrots, pepper, salt, a few aromatic herbs, a

glass of wh ite win e, let them simm er fo r three hours. A d d

a calf 's foot, cut in half, and well boiled for several hours.

Take out the bones of the calf 's foot, put in a bowl to get

cold. W il l form a nice jelly to be eaten w ith salad.

T E R R A P I N S T E W

Boil yo ur terra pin so ft. P u t in a sma ll piece of bacon,

one or tw o onions, pepper and butter. Ch op fine tw o or

three hard boiled eg gs. P u t all togeth er. A d d a little

W L N E

- — " U N C L E J O H N . "

T E R R A P I N

Put them in tub of cold water for about one hour, after

which throw them into boiling water and boil until dead.

Then take out and with a rough cloth wipe thoroughly all

in and around shell and legs and feet, to get off any black

skin or dirt. T h en thr ow a ga in into boiling wa ter and

cook until the shell comes off easily, and the claws pull off

in the same w ay . E ac h terrapin has to be tried separately

to see if the legs are soft and pliant and the shell and

claws come off easily (age tells), and no amount of cooking

in a chafing dish later will make tender if not cooked

enough be fore bein g picked. H old your terrapin over a

dish so that any of the water that runs from it can be saved,

and then take off the lower shell and take out the liver

which has the gall bladder in, and, holding that over another

dish, cut out the gall bladder as you may break it, and if

you do, don 't w an t it to sooil you r terrapin. Pic k y ou r



terrapin, leaving the small bones in it , and when picked, to

a pint of the meat and liquor add half pound best butter,

saltspoonful of dry mustard, wineglass of good sherry or

m adeira, and salt to taste. H ea t wh en read y to serve,

but do not coo k, and be sure and ha ve hot plates. If yo u

like it you can add about a cup of cream, but we do not

do it at the club.

— J A M E S H . B A R N E Y , President Maryland Club, 1 8 7 0 .

V E A L T E R R A P I N

One pound lean veal, quarter pound veal l iver, teaspoon-

ful onion juice and fou r cloves. Co ve r with water and boil

until tender. W h en cold cut me at and l iver into small

pieces. Th ick en the w ate r they we re boiled in w ith a

tablespoonful of butter rolled in about the same quantity

of brown ed flour (or a l i tt le less of the lat ter ). P ou r this

gravy over the meat and add two hard boiled eggs, cut f ine,

and a wineglassful of sherry with red pepper, and salt to

taste. H ea t and serve in cha fing dish.

B A L T I M O R E S T Y L E O F M A K I N G T E R R A P I N

S T E W W I T H O U T T E R R A P I N

Cut up a rabbit in pieces one inch square, and do the

same thing with a cal f 's head which has been thoroughly

cleaned and prepared. A d d to i t wha tever you m ay hav e

left over of chicken l ivers, gizzards, and small pieces of

fried bacon or ham . F lav or with salt, pepper and a laurel

leaf . L et i t s immer fo r tw o hours a day for tw o days,

(f o u r hou rs in a ll) . Sk im off al l grease and add to it tw o

or three hard boiled eggs, cut f ine, and a wineglassful of

white wine.

— M A R S H A L L T H O M A S ,

Deer Park, Md., July,

1 8 8 9 .

24



D E L I C I O U S F I S H B A L L S

Take a quart of hot potatoes, freshly boiled, a cup of

warmed fish picked very fine, one egg, the white and yellow

beaten lightly separately, a teaspoonful of nice butter, a

tablespoonful of fresh cream, add salt, red pepper, a little

onion juice , and pa rsley chopped fine. Be at the w ho le to

a ligh t cream . R oll in balls and drop into plenty of .very

hot lard, l ike doughnuts, stirring them all the time.

C O D F I S H B A L L S

One cupful raw salt fish, one pint potatoes, one egg well

beaten, quarter saltspoonful pepper, and more salt if needed,

one teas po onfu l of butter. W a s h the fish, pick in half inch

pieces, and fre e fro m bones. P ar e potatoes and cut in

quarters. P u t fish and potatoes in stewp an, cover with

boiling w ater. Bo il tw en ty-five minutes, or until potatoes

are soft. D o not allow potatoes to ge t so gg y. Dr ain off

all wa ter, ma sh and beat until ve ry l ight. A d d butter and

salt, and when slightly cooled the eggs, and more salt i f

needed. Sh ap e them w ithou t sm ooth ing much. Slip off

into fr y in g hot lard one minute. F r y only five at a time.

C O D F I S H C A K E S

Take six good sized potatoes, pare and boil; one pound

codfish, put it ov er in cold w ate r, do not let it boil. M as h

fish and potatoes toge ther . W h en hot season w ith salt and

pepper to taste. A d d a piece of butter, tw o eg gs beat l ight

with a fo rk , fr y in boiling lard five minutes, put on

sheets of bro w n paper. Se rve hot with some crisp fried

bacon.



U J J D M b H A L H b F A U J N U l J t ,

Take a salt codfish, let it soak, simmer it on a slow fire,

let it drip , and cut it in pieces. P u t in the ove n three or

four large sweet peppers, skin them, slice them lengthwise,

salt and pepper them.

Pu t tw o spoonfuls of sweet oi l in a fry ing-pan. Chop

up fine two onions, a piece of garlic, some parsley, cut up

fou r* fre sh toma toes, salt and pepper. L et it all cook for

half an hour, add a half cupful of bouil lon in which you

dissolve a teaspoonful of flour, let it cook ten minutes, take

out your parsley.

Boil a dozen Irish potatoes in their jackets, peel and

slice them, line the bottom of a dish with them, then put

some pieces of codfish, then some slices of sweet pepper,

then tom ato sauce, and a sprin kling of bread crumbs. Pu t

in the oven thirty-f ive minutes.—Canned tomatoes and

peppers can be used instead of fresh.

P O T O M A C H E R R I N G S W I T H R O E

When very fresh simply broil them over a slow fire.

Bas te them with butter, for quar ter of an hour. If a few

months old and a l ittle dry, soak them before cooking three

or four hours. T h e roe m ixed at table w ith boiled hominy

is most delicious for breakfast.

D E V I L L E D C R A B S

Twelve crabs, half pint of milk, two tablespoonfuls of

flour, one tablespoonful of butter, salt and cayenne pepper to

taste, one tab lespo on ful of chopped parsley. P ut the m ilk

on to boil, rub the butter and flour together, add the milk,

stir and cook tw o minutes. T a k e from the fire and add the

crab meat. T h e yo lks of three hard boiled eg gs m ashed



fine, then pa rsley , salt and pepper. Fi ll the shells, brush

over with the white of an egg, cover with bread crumbs

and put in a quick oven, or cook in a frying basket.

D E V I L L E D C R A B S — N E W O R L E A N S S T Y L E

Scald yo ur crabs only in boiling wa ter. Pick and clean

them car efu lly. T a k e out the firm w hite f lesh, and throw

out the yello w . M oisten the flesh w ith a l itt le sweet cfeam.

Ta ste to see that it is not bitter. P u t w ith it stale bread-

crumbs, salt and pepper it, and put this back into the shells;

sprinkle with bread crumbs, and put in the oven to brown.

Serve hot

— M M E . J O S EP H I N E N IC A U D .

S A U C E A L A N E W B U R G , F O R L O B S T E R

Take a quarter of a pound of melted butter, and a

whiskey glass of sherry wine, two yolks of eggs, a l itt le

salt and pepper to taste, a little lemon juice and half cup-

ful of sweet cream, mixed well with half teaspoonful of corn-

starch. St ir all togeth er w ell on the fire w ithou t allow ing

it to burn or turn.

r a7

. , , , , _

—Compliments of M A R S H A L L T H O M A S .

C O U R T B O U I L L O N O F F I S H

Make a good 'brown with a spoonful of lard and a l ittle

flour. A d d a piece of garlic and half an onion, cut f i n e —

let them bro w n well . A d d tw o tablespoonfuls of well

cooked tomatoes, salt, black coarse pepper, red pepper,

tw o laurel leaves, and a coffeespoonfu l of saffron. A d d

enough bouillon to cover your fish, and to make a good

sauce. A d d half a cup ful of good wh ite wine. T ak e tw o

pounds of very fresh, fine fish, take out the bones, and cut

it up in pieces from two to three inches long and wide,

salt we ll, an d fr y it in a little lard. A d d the frie d fish to



your sauce and let the whole simmer together for half an

hour. D o not turn your fish, so you m ay not break the

pieces. Co ve r your pot half wa y, as you do fo r a soup,

and serve hot.

— J O S E P H I N E N I C A U D , New Orleans.

" M O N I C A ' S " W A Y T O C O O K F I S H

There are stock f ish sometimes called tautog, Monica

cooks them th u s: P u t the f ish into a pan with a l itt le butter.

Let them fry until pretty nearly cooked, then put in a l i tt le

wine, pepper and salt, and let them stew. U se no wa ter

A l i t t le more wine, pepper and salt to make a good gravy—

so says "Monica ."

P O T A T O B A L L S

P ar e and boil dry some potatoes. T h en put them into

a hot pan and mash with a lump of butter, salt and pepper.

Be at this we ll, and m ake into sma ll flat cakes. D ip them

into e g g and sprinkle w ith bread crumbs. F ry a nice brow n.

P A R T R I D G E A L A " U N C L E J O H N "

Take six or eight partridges, or small quails, brown

them in a small pan with lard and a l ight sprinkling of

flour. A d d three tablespoo nfuls of raw tomatoes, half a

cu pfu l of m eat juice, onion, salt and pepper. L et them simm er

an hour, covered. Ba ste them fro m time to t ime with

the gr av y. Se rve with hot r ice.

" U N C L E J O H N , "

Chef for Mr. Le Garee, of South Carolina.

S T U F F I N G S F O R T U R K E Y S A N D D U C K S

Wild turkeys should be stuffed with corn bread, pecan

nuts and truffles. T a k e a piece of corn bread left ov er

28



from breakfast, moisten with a teaspoonful of sauce.

Add about a dozen peeled pecan nuts, three or four cut

truffles, m ix w ell. Co ok in saucepan. St uf f yo ur turk ey

the day before. A lw a y s let your fo w ls han g by the legs.

A wild turkey should cook an hour, perhaps a little more or

less. B e care fu l it does not dry, as the flesh is rather dry.

C ar ve it as yo u wo ul d a w ild du ck, in thick slices. P u t a

buttered paper on the breast of the wild turkey, to prevent

its dry ing. T a m e turke ys can be cooked and stuffed in the

same w ay . Sa usa ges we ll fr ied, w ith mashed potatoes, salt ,

and red pepper, make delicious stuffing for fowls.

T U R K E Y S T U F F I N G

Equal parts of stale baker's bread and nice corn bread

left over from break fast, a hard boiled eg g. Cho p up a few

raw oysters, mix well together with butter, salt, pepper,

red and w hite . P u t in the oven to bake. A d d to it a rem-

nant of pâté de foie gra s and stuff the turkey . Tu rk ey

should not cook more than an hour or an hour and a quarter.

Do not let it dry, the juice should run from it when it is

carved, baste it with soup or stock.

S T U F F I N G F O R F O W L S

Oysters, stale bread, onions, parsley, salt and pepper

put in the frying-pan with a little butter make delicious

stuffing. Tr uf fles w ith stale bread and butter, warm ed up

together in a frying-pan, and flavored with salt, pepper, etc.

Spanish chestnuts and bits of ham are delicious stuffing.

Stuff your fowls the day before, and hang them up by

the legs four hours before cooking.

Ch op fine a poun d of you n g calf. Season with salt,

pepper, and onion juice . L et it fr y in a saucepan w ith a



l ittle butter and a sprink ling of flour. A d d enough oyster

w ate r to sof ten it, and half a pint of oysters. L et all fr y

togeth er to the consistency of a paste. T h is m ay be used

for small pâtés also, and pigeons may be stuffed in the

same way, and al lowed to simmer in a saucepan, with a

little gravy, closely covered.

C H I C K E N C A S S E R O L E

Take a medium sized chicken, singe and draw and

prepare it, put in casserole whole, add a good lump of but-

ter, onion, salt and pepper. Ste am ge ntly on top of ran ge

two hours, then add mushrooms and vegetables to taste;

bro w n and serve hot. _

L i z z i e T q m n e y

C A N V A S B A C K D U C K -

L os e as little of the ju ice or blood as possible. Sp lit

it dow n the back. A f t e r sin gein g it very carefu lly, lay it

on a gridiron with the split side toward the fire, which must

be ver y hot. K ee p flat 011 the gr id iro n by pre ssing the

other half, but do not bruise the flesh by pressing too much.

Allow the duck to remain over the fire twelve or fifteen min-

utes, then take off, and expose the breasts to the heat just

long enou gh to bro wn the skin nicely. It is then cooked,

and mu st imm ediately be served. A salad of celery may -

onnaise is the proper thing to eat with it.

— M R S . W I L C O X , Aiken, S. C.

H O W T O R O A S T D U C K S

Don't wash your ducks, but wipe them thoroughly with

a clean cloth, inside and outside. R ub the back ( insid e and

ou tsid e) w ith a sm all piece of onion. Salt and pepper them

the same w ay . T ie them up tigh tly so the juice does not

escape. R u b the breast of each duck with a spo on ful of



olive oil. L a y in yo ur dripping -pan a slice or tw o of bacon,

one carrot, one leek, tw o bay leaves, a piece of c elery. Pl ac e

the ducks on this, and let them cook in a moderate oven

twenty-five minutes. P ut in any dressing you wo uld make

for a roast chicken. W it h all yo ur roast m eats put in the

bottom of you r roast-p an a car rot cut in ha lf, a piece of

onion, celery and parsley. T h e same with boiled m eats

or fish, to give a foundation taste to your food.

— K A T I E S E A B R O O K ,

President McKinley's Colored Cook .

H O W T O S E R V E C H I C K E N

Wash your chicken, dry with a nice clean cloth, put it

in a tray of salt and water to cover ten minutes, dry it

and salt and pepper and flour it well, throw it in a pan of

hot lard, hot enough to make it a golden brown, when done

lay it on a piece of very clean paper to absorb the grease.

Throw off the top grease, put a handful of flour, stir to a

brown, add to it a pint of stock, stir and strain, then put

your chicken in and let it simmer slowly until the chicken

gets soft; make a nice pot of mush, let it get cold, cut it

and fr y and serve w ith the chicken. F r y Jerusalem arti-

chokes and let them simmer with the fricassee; this is also

delicious.

— E L L E N W H I T E , Mrs. Madison's Cook.

F O R B R O I L I N G C H I C K E N

To prepare chickens to roast and broil, when once you

have washed your chickens, wipe them carefully with a

dry cloth. Sa lt and pepper them tw o or three hours be fore

cooking, put them in the ref rig er ato r. P ut a little sweet oil

over them before broi l ing them on a s low f ire; while cooking

baste them w ith a little wa ter. F or roasting chickens do

the same as for bro iling. Stu ff them, put three or fo ur



lar ge spo on fuls of butter inside the chicken. B ak e one

hour, slow fire.

N E W O R L E A N S W A Y T O C O O K S N I P E

Take some jel ly made of calf 's feet and madeira wine.

A small piece of salt po rk and a piece of liver. C ho p the

meat up fine, with seasoning of salt, red and black pepper.

Put a few soda crackers in the oven and toast and pulverize

them. M ix them with your chopped meat. A d d chopped

truffles and mushrooms, and just enough meat juice to

softe n it. C ut your snipe in .two. P u t them in a china

tureen and fill in the em pty places w ith this hash. P ut it

on a very slow fire for several hours, basting it with the

— M R S . C U T H B E R T S L O C U M .

C H I C K E N P I E

M ak e a rich bro wn chicken fricassee. T ie a bouquet

of aromatic herbs with a thread and let it stand in the

fricassee five minutes, then take it out. Cu t up tw o ha rd

boiled eg gs and put them in the fricassee. Coo k thor ou gh ly

ove r a slow fire. H av e yo ur pie crust ready, and put the

fricassee in it, not forgetting to prick the top crust with

an iron for k in several places to allow evaporation. O the r-

wise it will ferment and the result will prove disastrous.

— A U N T R A C H E L C O F F I N .

C H I C K E N C R O Q U E T T E S

Pa ir of fow ls w eig hi ng six pounds. Choose those w ith

m ost breasts. B oi l in sufficient w ate r to cover them, wi th

two onions, two carrots, small bunch of thyme and parsley,

a few cloves and half a grated nutmeg. A ft er they hav e

become cold and very tender, divest them of skin, fat



C H A N S O N D E M É R A N C E



N U R S E M Ë R A N C E O F T H E D E S T R E H A N P L A N T A T I O N , J U S T A B O V E N E W

O R L E A N S



gristle and tendons, and chop the meat as fine as possible.

A half pound of best butter to each chicken should be put

into a saucepan with a tablespoonful of flour, and cook

together, st irring constantly to prevent burning. A d d a

gill or so of the stock in which the chickens are boiled, and

a tumbler of rich cream . Bo il eight or ten m inutes, stirrin g

constantly. Re m ov e from the fire and season w ith salt,

pepper and grated nutmeg. Mix well . Stir in milk rapidly,

add the yo lks of fo ur eg gs. P u t all on the fire and stew the

mixture for a moment, st irring briskly, after which pour

the mass out in a flat dish, and let it remain until perfectly

cool. T h en m ake it up into pear shaped rolls w ith the

assistance of a little flour to prevent the mixture from stick-

ing to the fingers. W h en all are read y, dip each one

separately into the yolk of eggs beaten with a little cream,

and roll them as fast as dipped into fresh bread crumbs

made fro m day old bread. L et them stand fo r an hour or

so to dr y. N o w fr y them a delicate bro w n in plenty of

clear fr y in g hot lard. L a y them in a colander to drain.

Serve on a napkin in a warm dish.

N E W O R L E A N S V E A L W I T H O Y S T E R S

Make a brown with a spoonful of nice fresh butter, or

lard. C ho p a pound of nice, tender yo un g veal. Fl av or

with salt and pepper. P u t it in the frying -pa n. A d d a

little flour. L e t it com e to a go od color. A d d a cu pfu l of

oyster wa ter, and som e w ell chopped parsley. L et it cook

for half an ho ur over a slow fire. A d d yo ur oysters and

let them cook five m inutes. N ev er allow yo ur parsley to

fry . T h is m ak es a delicious stuffing fo r chickens and

ducks by ad d in g a little stale bread. It m ay be used also

for small pâtés, or simply serve on pieces of toast.




tfUKUHJLAlbH

Put a tablespoonful of finely chopped shallots (small

green onions), two tablespoonfuls of bruised cloves, and

two pieces of garlic into a saucepan with a little butter.

F ry a l itt le. A d d tw o glasses of claret wine, a pint of

Span ish saiice, and a pinch of red pepper. Re duc e to the

consistency of a sauce. Fin ish off w ith lemon juice,

chopped parsley and four ounces of beef marrow cut in

rounds, and hardly heated in salted bo iling wa ter. U se

immediately.

- D E L M O N I C O .

S A U C E F O R W I L D D U C K

One tablespoonful of sugar, one tablespoonful of to-

mato catsup, lemon juice, salt, cayenne pepper.

L O B S T E R S A U C E

One pound of lobster, three tablespoonfuls of cream,

one of butter, salt, caye nne pepper. B ea t the coral of the

lobster with the cream and butter.

C A L F S L I V E R A L A C E L E S T E S M I T H

Cut a few slices of very tender veal into pieces three

inches lon g and half an inch thick. F r y them in lard w ith a

little onion chopped v ery fine. A d d half a cup ful of bouil-

lon or sauce. L e t them simm er half or three qua rters of

an hour. A d d pars ley we ll chopped. Bo il a ha nd ful of

best Italian m acaro ni. P u t it in the bottom of a long

dish. Po ur yo ur l ivers and sauce on top. T ri m w ith

slices of lemon. O ld Celeste wo uld say "i t w as a ver y vul-

gar dish, but a delicious one."

— C E L E S T E S M I T H ,

Mm e. Eustis Mere's Cook.



N E W O R L E A N S V E A L B A L L S

Ch op fine a pound of yo un g veal. Seaso n w ith salt,

pepper, thy m e and onion juice. R oll this in balls. L e t

them brown in a saucepan with butter an hour before

you have prepared the sauce. - J O S E P H I N E N I C A U D .

S A U C E F O R V E A L B A L L S

Make a brown with a nice piece of tender young veal ,

say one poun d. C u t in pieces abou t half an inch thick ,

to which you add small pieces of fresh ham, well browned,

a few slices of tom atoes we ll fried , and a l itt le onion. A d d

to this half a cup ful of soup or stock. L et it simm er slow ly

fo r half an hour. T he n add yo ur veal balls, fres hly fried.

L et them all simm er toge ther until read y to serve. T o be

eaten w ith ver y hot rice. Sw eetb rea ds can be put in this

same sauce. W he n they have been thorou ghly prepared,

cook them, and baste in this sauce over a slow fire, and

they come out a golden color. T he y are delicious wh en

so cooked . Co ld, eaten w ith lettuce salad, w ith F ren ch

dressing.


S P I C E D B E E F

T a k e roun d of beef and put in a porcelain pot. O v e r

this pour one can of tomatoes, and put one bunch of carrots,

and one onion , sliced fine. P u t this on the back of the

stove at three o'clock for an eight o'clock dinner, and let

it cooke d slow ly all the t ime. A short t ime before dinner

add a heaping tablespoonful of cloves and one of allspice,

gro un d. T he n take a cup of f lour and brow n it and ma ke

into gravy and add this to the rest.



S T E W E D T O N G U E F O R L U N C H

Boil a fresh tongue until it is tender and dress it ready

for the table. T a k e a little m ore than a pint of the wa ter

it was boiled in and add to it half a pint of port wine, a

small tumbler of currant jelly, a small pinch of mace, and

salt to taste. St ew the ton gue in this g ra v y fo r an hou r,

and serve in the gravy.

C U C U M B E R C A T S U P

Take three dozen full grown cucumbers, pare and slice

thin. P ar e and slice tw o qua rts of wh ite onions ve ry thin.

M ix thro ugh them one pint of salt. Sp rea d to drain fo r

six or eigh t hours, and then squeeze pe rfec tly dr y. P u t

in a large bowl and add quarter pound brown sugar, half

pint olive oil, half pound mustard seed, quarter pound

ground black pepper, tw o quarts boil ing vine gar. M ix w ell

together. T h en put in small ja rs and cover, if necessary,

with cold vinegar and on top of each jar pour a little olive

oil. P ut in ja rs w ith tig h t tops.

V E G E T A B L E S

S W E E T P O T A T O E S

Take six sweet potatoes, not too large, scrape them on

a scraper. A d d tw o spo on fuls of wa ter, salt, pepper, sug ar

to taste, and a spo on ful of butter. M ix all toge ther to the

consistency of a go od paste. P u t in a dish that go es to the

fire, and place in the oven. B ef or e doin g so, take a straw

and stick it on top to allow evanoration.



is cooked in another saucepan and carefully drained, then

tossed with a liberal lump of good butter, until well cooled.

Stir in the tomato and serve as soon as thoroughly heated.

W I T H B E A N S . — A "left-over" of baked beans goes well

combined w ith tomato. T h ey m ay be used together, ei ther

in the form of soup or sufficiently solid for a nice hot supper

or side dish. T o a pint of cold baked beans add a pint of

boiling water and a pint of tomatoes cut small; also a slice

or tw o of onion and tw o or three stalks of celery. Ste w for

twenty minutes, or longer if not in haste, and put through

a strainer. M elt tw o tablespo onfuls of butter in a saucepan

and blend with two of f lour; add by degrees the beans and

serve ver y hot. U se only wa ter enou gh to prevent burn-

ing, if a solid dish is wanted.

SALADS.—The tomato serves perfect ly in a salad,

either with lettuce or celery; whole, f i l led or sliced; with a

rich mayonnaise, or with the simplest French dressing.

With a can of salmon a very handsome and rich salad is

prepared. T a k e out the salmon in neat, f irm bits and lay

them in a dish of cold spiced vinegar while the tomatoes are

prepared. C u t off the stem end and hollow out w ith a

pointed spoon to m ake a neat, f irm cup. M edium -sized

tomatoes of even form and well ripened should be chosen.

Mix a l itt le salt, cayenne and vinegar, with or without oil ,

as preferred, and sprinkle the tomatoes well , then fi l l with

the salmon. Cu cum ber s in paper-thin slices m ay be m ixed

w ith the fish. S er ve on lettuce leaves w ith a cup ful of

mayonnaise.

J E L L I E D O R F R O Z E N . — B o t h cucumbers and tomatoes are

frequently served now in the form of jelly, using the pulp

pressed through a steamer, with gelatine, as in other gela-

tine jell ies. Cu bes of this jelly are especially popular with

chicken salad. F ro ze n tomato is offere d in the same wa y

with meat salads or co

1 J 1

heons. T h e pulp is hig hly



seasoned and froz en like a w ate r ice. It is then either chilled

again in small cups, to make an individual mold, or served

by the spoonful upon the plates.

Tomatoes cannot be stewed under two to three hours

to get rid of that raw , w ate ry taste. T ak e five or six

tomatoes or a can of tomatoes, throwing out the water, put

in a saucepan with a small piece of onion, a bit of parsley,

salt, pepper, teaspoonful of butter, a pinch of sugar; let

it s imm er from tw o to three hours uncovered. Ser ve for

dinner or set aside to add to a poor soup, or to re-enforce a

gravy, or if your dinner is short, put about half of it in

a warm dish, poach s ix eggs, set them a few moments

on a nice, dry, warm napkin to dry, then put them on the

tom atoes and serve des œ u fs à la por toga is. Sl iced fresh

tomatoes, salt and pepper and powdered with crumbs of

toasted bread, fried in hot butter and served hot imm ediately,

are very delicious for breakfast.

T O M A T O T I M B A L E . — T o

be served with lettuce and may-

onnaise sauce : T ak e s ix fr esh toma toes or a can of tomatoes,

of which you throw off the l iquor, stew them down suffi-

ciently with a spoonful of Cox's gelatine, put enough to

keep the tomatoes together, season to taste with salt and

cayenne pepper, pour into small timbales to shape them,

place on ice to get cold and serve with lettuce and mayon-

naise sauce.

T O M A T O E S

Tomatoes must be cooked several hours, otherwise they

taste sour and watery.

Slice them, salt and pepper them, add a few bread

crumbs, broil them on the gridiron, serve very hot for

breakfast .

Stuffed with mince meat, or sl iced, with French dress-

ing or mayonnaise sauce, they are delicious.



Scald , peel, and slice them. P u t in the refrig era tor,

with Fre nch dressing . P u t a slice of onion in the dish w ith

them, and remove it before serving.

A N I C E W A Y T O C O O K T O M A T O E S F O R B R E A K F A S T . —

A nice way to cook tomatoes for breakfast is to slice them,

salt and pepper them, sprinkle with bread crumbs, a l itt le

butter on them, and broiled. Se rv e ve ry hot imm ediately,

without letting them stand.

E G G P L A N T

Parboil them, cut them in half and scrape out the soft

part, w hic h you put in a bow l. A d d to it some chopped

meat and a little stale bread . Sea son w ith salt, pepper,

onions, pa rsley , and a little bit of ham or ton gu e. P u t all

in the frying-pan for a few moments, then put back in the

egg-plant shells, with sprinkled bread crumbs on top, and

brown in the oven.

F R I E D C A R R O T S

T ak e a few tender yo un g carrots. S l ice them (round-

wise) very thin, rol l them in brown sugar, and fry them

brown in butter.

J E R U S A L E M A R T I C H O K E S

Scrap e and boi l them, not too soft , w ith salt. T h ey

are delicious as a salad w ith Fre nch dressing . T h ey can be

used in a brown chicken fricassee, or with roast chicken

or duck, or dressed with a white sauce.

G L O B E A R T I C H O K E S

They should be boiled with the leaves downward in salt

water. Se rv e hot or cold, w ith sauce vina igrette or w hite



sauce. A ls o wit h the inside leaves taken out and fil led up

with stuffing of veal and chicken, and a little bit of ham, all

well chopped up together. L et them simm er together for

half an hour, adding a spoonful or two of soup to make a

g r a v y .

S Q U A S H

T a k e a squash or cym ling. Parb oi l i t. C ut i t in half

(roundwise) , and with a spoon scrape out the inside part

and put that in a bow l. A d d to it some stale bread crumbs,

a l ittle milk or cream, a spoonful of sugar, salt, pepper and

butter. Be at all w ell togeth er, then put fo r a fe w momen ts

into a fryin g-p an on the fire. T h en pu t all back into the

squash shell , sprinkle bread crumbs on top, and put them in

the oven to bro w n a bit. T h e y are m ost delicious cooked

in this way.

C A R R O T S

Slice five or six carrots roun dw ise. P u t them into a

saucepan. A d d tw o or three tablespoonfuls of wa ter, a

tablespoonful of sugar, and a teaspoonful of very fresh but-

ter. C ov er closely. L e t it simm er on a slow fire for tw o or

three hours, and they w ill come out so ft and tender. I f yo u

have a dish of carrots every day on your table you wil l save

your doctor's bil l .

Carrots are very nice boiled sliced, and cooked with

a white sauce; or, sliced in round, thin slices, put in a sauce-

pan w ith butter, salt, pepper and a l ittle suga r. L et th em

simmer on the side of the stove two or three hours, add a

little chopped parsley . P er fe ctl y delicious.

Take these same carrots, crush them, and pass them

thro ug h a sieve. A d d som e bouillon, and let them cook

slow ly half an hour togeth er. Su ch a delicious soupe

creme.



Boil a fe w carrots, not too sof t. Slice and fr y them in

butter, after having sprinkled them with brown sugar.

Serve hot.

L U C C H E T T I — F R I E D

I T A L I A N V E G E T A B L E

Cut in strips, rather flat, like potatoes, for frying crisply

à la française. L ea ve them tw o or three hours, af ter sprink-

ling salt on them , to exp el the m oisture. L a y them a little

wh ile on a napkin. D ip them in flour, and fr y quickly

until brown . Sprinkle pow dered sug ar on them before

serving.

Or they may be served farcis, in pieces cut l ike fond

d'artichauts.

S P I N A C H

Spinach must be thrown into boi l ing water, and when

sufficiently cooked drained in a colander or cheesecloth,

and chopped fine on a very clean board with a perfectly

clean knife, then warmed in a saucepan

;

add salt, butter and

sugar to taste, and serve very hot and quickly.

It should be trimmed with small pieces of fried bread

around the dish.

S T R I N G B E A N S

Make a bouquet of a small green onion, some parsley,

a laurel lea f, a ve ry sm all bit of thyme . T ie all togethe r

with a long string, add your string beans, and when the

bouquet has boiled fifteen minutes, take it out, leaving the

strin g beans to boil f i fteen minutes long er. L e t them, like

spinach, dance around in plenty of hot w ater. W he n

cooked, strain them in a coland er at once. D o not let them

get cold. L e t the m d rip in a clean piece of cheesecloth



M I S C E L L A N E O U S D I S H E S

M A C A R O N I P I E

Put the macaroni on to boil in plenty of cold water with

an onion. L e t it boil ge ntl y until the m acaro ni is quite

tender, then throw it on a sieve to drain; but first wash it

in cold w ate r. T h en pu t on half a pint of cream to boil

with about four ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, a table-

spoonful of mustard, a little cayenne pepper, salt and butter.

Thin it in some macaroni, and let i t stew gently a few min-

utes. H av e some grated cheese m ixed with a few bread

crumbs. P u t the ma caroni in a deep dish, sprinkle the

crumbs of cheese over the top and bake it.

— M R S . P H I L L I P S

(

D r

.

Arn old's Receip t).

C O R N O Y S T E R S

Grate one pint of young corn, add one egg, well beaten,

one small teacupful of flour, one-half cupful of butter, salt

and pepper, m ix w ell . F r y a spoon ful at a t ime, butter them.

E G G S , P O R T U G U E S E S T Y L E

Slice some nice fresh tomatoes, salt and pepper, put

crumbs of bread on them, fry them well , put them in a

hot dish and put on top several poached egg s. T he same can

be served on a good tomato sauce that has cooked three

hours.

E G G S A L A M O R E L L E

Boil s ix or eight eg gs hard twen ty minutes. M ak e a

nice white sauce in a double saucepan with a pint of cream,

mix a tablespoonful of butter with f lour, add gently and

carefully to cream, salt, red pepper, and a little onion juice.

4 8



M A R C H A N D D ' O I N O N S



8 Z ( Z I O * a (I z A H a J l 1 , M

, ri rio - ißtrt sao d ¿ ínog sc on - io <?a(I

..V i l i? i l

:

o í ß i - s . •/: • I t> K/ÍÍS:» > c J -



T H E O N E - E Y E D B O Y A N D H I S O N I O N S T E A L



When the sauce is made, cut the eggs in half and add the

sauce.

H O W T O M A K E T E A

Scald you r teapot w ith boi l ing water. P u t in i t a spoon-

ful of tea w ith a lar ge spoon ful of hot w ater . L et it stand

one moment. A d d a cup ful of boi ling wa ter. Le t i t

stand. A d d another cu pfu l to suit the taste. B y this

system you extra ct the best arom a out of tea. O f course

your wa ter mu st be boiling. P u t a l ittle hot wa ter in

your cups to warm them.

C O L D T E A

Make your tea early in the afternoon, and pour i t from

one vessel to another, shaking violently until it pains your

arm. Th en pour it into the pitcher from which yo u w ish

to serve it, and let it stand on the ice, or in the refrigerator,

until you w an t it. Cr ac k yo ur ice fine, and put a small

quantity in each tum bler. T h en pou r in the tea, already

sweetened, and add slices of lemon to taste.

— M R S . P H I L L I P S , of Washington, D. C.

H O W T O M A K E D R I P C O F F E E

T ak e a Fren ch dr ipper , or Fren ch cof fee-pot. W as h

it in hot w ate r. It m ust be pe rfectly pure and clean. Pu t

in i t two or three tablespoonfuls of Java and Mocha mixed.

Pour over it a quarter of a cupful of tepid water, just to

soak the coffee . L e t it stand a fe w mom ents, then pour

on it a cupful of boiling water, and let it drip five minutes

more. T h en add another cup ful of hot w ater. Te st the

coffee. If it is too we ak , pou r the w ho le th ing over the top

again. If it is too strong, add mo re hot wa ter. Rinse you r

cups in hot water before using them.

4 49



W A F F L E S

Beat two eg gs thorou ghly, separately. A d d a heaping

cu pfu l of flour. T h in it w ith sweet cold milk to a so ft

consistency . A d d pinch of sug ar, pinch of salt, and a little

bak ing pow der on the end of a spoon. Bea t we ll with an

e g g beater. Do uble the am ount if necessary, beating

whites and yolks separately.

S O D A B I S C U I T S

One quart of flour, teaspoonful of salt, two teaspoon-

fuls of bakin g pow der. M ix toge ther in a bow l, then

add a tablespoonful of very fresh lard, and one cupful of

milk. M ix with the hand quickly. Cu t in small round

pieces, and put in a pan and bake.

R O L L S

Take a quart of flour, a spoonful of lard, a pinch of

salt , and wa ter enou gh to soften the paste. M ix well over

night. P ut in buttered pans ne xt m ornin g and bake.

W A F F L E S

Two tablespoonfuls of f lour, two tablespoonfuls of hom-

iny, one egg, one teaspoonful of butter, one teaspoonful of

lard, one half-pint of milk, and a little salt, beat up very

— J U L I A P A R K M A N .

M U F F I N S

A cupful of hominy with a little salt, a teaspoonful of

butter, a cupful of wheat flour, a tablespoonful of sugar,

a half-teaspoonful of salt , one egg, a teaspoonful of baking

pow der. M ix we ll with sw eet milk until a smooth paste.

Put a spoonful in a buttered mold.

5 0



E G G S A L A M O R E L L E

Cu t six hard boi led egg s in half . T a k e the yolks of

three eg gs. P ut them in a small saucepan w ith a pint of

cream and a go od spoo nful of butter. St ir al l the t ime, the

pan being in anoth er pan of hot wa ter. B e car efu l to put

the cream in befo re the butter. B ef or e ser vin g put in a

few drops of vin ega r or a l i tt le lemon juice. P ou r this

sauce ove r yo ur hard boiled eg gs . It can also be used with

vegetables.

B I S C U I T S M A D E O V E R N I G H T

One quart of f lour, pinch of salt , two tablespoonfuls of

lard. Brea k ove r it a raw e gg . O ne yeast cake in cu pfu l of

cold wa ter. K ne ad it w ith the hand for tw en ty minutes. L et

it rise ove r nigh t. Cu t out in round form w ith larg e cutter.

Butter l igh tly with melted butter. T u rn it over and let

it rise for two hours, and bake in quick oven.

L O A F B R E A D

Three quarts of f lour (for four loaves), one teaspoonful

salt , one tablespoonful sugar and one tablespoonful of lard,

dissolved in hot water, three-fourths cupful of milk and small

yeast cake soaked half hour in tablespoonful of tepid water.

Stir al l together with knife unti l knife stands up in the

sponge. L e t rise ov er nigh t. K ne ad out and put in pans

not quite half full, that it may rise to the edge in about an

hour. Ba ke in ov en of mod erate heat about an hour and

a half.

T H I N W A T E R B I S C U I T S

One-half pound of flour, two ounces butter well rubbed

into the flour, a pinch of salt. M i x into a stiff paste with

5 1



meal and cold milk alternately to a thick consistency until

it drops off the spoon in a thick batter, like a thick mush.

Sometimes put in a pinch of yeast powder, just as you are

go ing to put it to bake. M i x it we ll, bake it and serve.

Don't let it stand.

- B A L T I M O R E .

A U N T A N N E ' S H O E C A K E

Take a large cupful of corn meal, sift it in a bowl, one

pinch of salt, m ix it w ith a little bo iling w ater . L et it get

cold. M ak e some small roun d cakes, pinch them on top.

Put in a pan to bake in the oven.

H O M I N Y B R E A D A N D W A F F L E S

One egg, four tablespoonfuls of hominy, four table-

spoonfuls of plain f lour (s i fted), two tablespoonfuls of

melted butter, and tw o cu pfu ls of sw eet milk. P ut the butter

in the hominy and add the other ingredients, putting in the

flour last, with a small pinch of baking powder.

S A L L Y L U N N

One quart of flour, one teaspoonful of salt, one table-

spoonful of sugar, one heaping tablespoonful of lard and

butter mixed with one-third of a yeast cake; three eggs

well beaten. M ak e the dou gh w ith w arm wa ter in winter

and w ith cold w at er in summ er. It should be the consist-

ency of ligh t bread dou gh , or rather, softe r. L et it rise for

four or five hou rs. T o uc h lightly , and turn into a buttered

cake m old, and bak e w itho ut a second kn eadin g. It w ill

take nearly forty minutes to bake, and should then soak well.

—LAUDERDALE, Virginia.



C O R N P O N E

Corn pone is highly recommended as a breakfast dish.

Take a heaping coffeecupful of boiled hominy, heat it , and

thin in a tablespoonful of butter, three eggs, and nearly one

pint of sweet m ilk. A s much corn m eal m ay be added as

will serve to thicken this till it is like the batter for "Johnny-

ca kes ." B ak e in a quick oven and serve.

— " L E G S , "

one of Thomas Jefferson's Plantations.

P O P - O V E R S

Two cupfuls of f lour, three eggs, two cupfuls of milk,

one-half teaspoonful of salt . Beat eggs, without separating,

ve ry l ight. P ou r m ixtu re slow ly ove r f lour to prevent lump-

ing. Gre ase cups w ith butter. P u t in oven to ge t hot.

Cook in moderate oven at bottom about three-quarters of

A N H 0 U N

— S A R A H J O H N S T O N .

S A L L Y L U N N

Five eggs, one and a half pints of f lour, full spoonful of

butter, put in the yolks (whites are not used), and two

spoonfuls of sugar, one glass of sour milk, with teaspoonful

of baking powder.

C O R N B R E A D

A handful of hominy, two spoonfuls of butter and lard

mixed, three eggs, one cupful of corn meal, and one cupful

of milk.

C O R N C A K E

With one quart of corn meal, scalded, mix one-half

quart of milk and one-half quart of water, small quantities

of soda, salt and brown sugar.



R ub a piece of bu tter the size of an eg g into a pint of

corn meal . M ak e it a batter w ith tw o eg gs and some new

milk. A d d a spo on ful of yeast. Se t it by the fire an hour

to rise. Bu tter little pans, fill them , and bake .

S W E E T P O T A T O B U N S

Boil and mash a sw eet potato. R u b into it as mu ch

flour as w ill m ake it l ike bread. A d d spice and sugar to

your taste, w ith a spo onfu l of yeast. W h e n it has risen

we ll w or k in a piece of butter. B a k e it in sm all rolls, to be

eaten hot with butter.

C O U C H E C O U C H E

Make a paste as you make for corn bread by the above

receipt. Sw ee ten it w

T

ith su ga r. Inste ad of pu ttin g it in

a pan, you grease a pot with lard, and as the paste cooks to

the side of the pot, yo u scrape it off w ith a spoon. D o that

five or six time s, un til all yo ur paste is cook ed. It is de-

l ic ious for bre akfa st w ith coffee. T h e Southern chi ldren

are very fond of it with milk.

G R A H A M W H E A T L E T S

One pint of Graham flour, nearly one quart of boiling

water or m ilk, and one teasp oon ful of salt. Scald the flour,

when you have salted it , into as soft dough as you can

handle. R oll it ne arly an inch thick, cut in roun d cakes,

lay upon a buttered tin or pan, and bake them in the hottest

oven you can ge t read y. T h e l ightness of the wh eatlets de-

pends upon the de gre e of heat. So m e cooks spread them on

a hot tin, and set th:' red-h ot stove. Pr op er ly



scalded and cooked they are l ight as puffs, and very good,

oth erw ise they are flat and tou gh . Sp lit and butter wh ile

hot.

P A N C A K E S

In gre die nts : eg gs, f lour, milk and salt. Be at the eg gs

we ll in a basin. T o every e g g add one dessertspoo nful of

flour, one tea cu pfu l of m ilk and salt to taste. M ix these

to a fine batter, then let stand for four hours in a cool

place. H a v e fryin g-p an ve ry hot. P u t in a piece of but-

ter the size of a wa lnut. P u t in half a teacu pful of the

batter, and fry to a l ight, nice brow n. R oll and serve wh ile

hot with sugar and lemon. - " A U N T S U E/ ' S. C.

P A N C A K E S

Three eggs, a half pint of milk, two tablespoonfuls of

flour. M i x eg gs and flour; add m ilk, salt and nutm eg.

Fry a tablespoonful at a t ime in hot lard.

DE SSE RTS

C R E A M A L A C E L E S T I N E

Six yolks of eggs, one white of egg, one pound Menier

chocolate, two cupfuls of sugar, one quart of cream, one pint

of m ilk. F la vo r w ith vanilla. Be at the yolks of eg gs, add

the w hite of one, and sugar, and beat all f irm. T he n ad d

the cream, stirring slowly until we ll m ixed. Le t the m ilk

come to a boil and add the chocolate. W he n well m ixe d,

add it to the eg gs , sug ar, etc. Stir gently, strain. A ll o w

it to cool and then freeze.



M A N C H E S T E R I C E - C R E A M

Four eggs, whites and yolks, one pint of cream, one-half

pint of m ilk, tw o cup fuls of suga r. M ix the sug ar, cream and

milk togeth er, and stir in the well-beaten eg gs . P u t all in

the freezer and turn for twenty minutes without stopping.

Then put in a mold, and pack in ice until wanted.

F L O A T I N G I S L A N D

O ne quart of milk. Su ga r to taste. Fla vo r w ith va-

nilla. Y o lk s of seven eg gs , w ell beaten, and tw o w hites,

all beaten tog eth er ; add to m ilk. Stir gen tly over a slow

fire. Be at we ll the w hites of f ive e g g s ; add ve ry little po w-

dered sug ar. T a k e the beaten eg gs by spo onfu ls and put on

top of your boi l ing milk (before you make your cream).

Turn over every spoonful of egg on the milk for two or

three minutes. P ut them on a sieve to drip on a ve ry

clean cloth in the ice box.

H A R D C U S T A R D

O ne qua rt of m ilk. S u ga r to taste. A piece of vanilla

bean. L et yo ur m ilk come to a bo il; take it off the fire for

three or fou r minutes. A d d f ive well-beaten egg s. A d d

them gr ad ua lly to the milk. Po u r it in a mold in w hich

you have put caramel, and place that in a bain-Marie

(double sau cepa n) in the oven for tw en ty minutes. L et it

get cold in the ice box, and turn out when wanted.

— L E O N I E P E N I N .

S O F T C U S T A R D

Sam e proportions. Seven yolks of eg gs and tw o whites.

Add to warm milk, and put it on a slow fire, stirring it all

the time fo r five or ten m inutes. D o not burn it.




S W E D I S H C R E A M

Take six eggs, beat the whites and yolks thoroughly.

A d d one and a half spo onfu ls of sugar . Boil a quart of

m ilk and cream . L e t it ge t cold, and flavor w ith vanilla

bean. A d d tw o spo on fuls of burned suga r. Strain. Pu t

in a mo ld. T h en put that m old in a double saucepan (w ith

w at er ) in the oven. W h en solid turn it over in a dish of

l ight brandy around it .

" E D G E H I L L " C O O K E D A P P L E S

T a k e six or eigh t goo d-sized fresh apples. Pee l and

core them, tak ing out the heart. Fil l each up w ith brown

sug ar. Pu t them in a pan or dish. Spr inkle brow n sugar

freely over them and put slices of lemon around the dish,

w ith small pieces of cinnamo n. A d d a spoo nful or tw o of

wa ter. Pu t in the oven, and bake a golde n color. It jel lies

beauti ful ly . Se rve w ith fresh cream. _ _

S A R A H

R

A N D 0 L

P H .

C A R A M E L P U D D I N G

m

Five eggs, the four yolks and one whole one, one gil l of

cream, one half-pint of milk, one ounce of sifted sugar, one

quarter of a pound of lump sugar, just moistened with cold

water, then boiled to a light golden color, poured into a

m old. W h e n the caram el is set, then pour in custard, tie

down with foolscap paper and steam very gently for an

hou r and a ha lf. W h e n cooke d it should be buried in ice

until required for use. T h e eg gs , cream, sugar and milk

should all be well beaten together.


P L U M P U D D I N G

One and a half pounds of raisins (stoned), one and a half

pounds of currants, one and a half pounds of suet, one and



a half pounds of sugar, three-quarters of a pound of flour,

three-quarters of a pound of bread crumbs (soaked in one-

half pint of milk), ten eggs, one apple (chopped), a quarter

of a pound of candied peel, one ounce of bitter almonds,

one ounce of sw eet almond s. Bo il gen tly for ten hours,

and serve with brandy sauce. S . W I L L I S .

P O R C U P I N E P U D D I N G

T ak e six goo d apples. Peel and core them. M ak e a

little syrup with sug ar and wa ter. L et yo ur apples cook

in that syrup, roast ing them. W h en the apples are so ft,

take them out, put them in a flat dish. L et yo ur syru p

thicken a bit, pour it over the apples, and let them get cool.

Beat the wh ites of tw o or three eg gs stiff . P u t it over the

apples, shap ing it in the form of a pu ddin g. Stick in it all

over bleached almon ds. L et it bro wn in the oven.

—Miss

B A N K S , S .

C.

M E R I N G U E P U D D I N G

One pint of stale bread crumbs, one quart of milk,

nearly one teacupful of sugar, three eggs, leaving out the

white of one for the m eringue. Season the pudd ing with

the gra ted rind of one lemon. M ix all togeth er and bake

until you can put the handle of a teaspoon in and it comes

out clean. T h e n cov er the pu dd ing w ith some preserves.

Make your meringue of the one white of egg and teacupful

of suga r. Sp re ad in on top of the preserv es, and put in the

stove until it is l igh tly brow ned. Y o u ma y double the re-

ceipt if more is wanted.

M O N K E Y P U D D I N G

T a k e about half a loaf of stale bread. L et it soak in

nice milk (as much as you would put for a bread pudding)



several hours. A d d a l itt le cream to it. Pu t in three

heaping spoonfuls of brown sugar, two heaping spoonfuls

of pow dere d cinnam on, a few stoned raisins. Coo k in the

oven with a slow fire until it looks like an old monkey.

Serve with a stiff sugar and butter sauce, f lavored with a

little wine. — C E L E S T I N E E U S T I S .

P L A I N R I C E P U D D I N G

One and a half quarts of milk, one-half cupful of

rice, three-fourths of a cupful of sugar; dessertspoonful of

butter. W a s h yo ur rice we ll . P u t as m uch m ilk as the dish

you wish to bake your pudding in wi l l hold, together with

the rice. A ll o w it to boil, and as the m ilk cook s aw ay , keep

adding more until al l is used; then add sugar and butter,

and bake until brown . W h en your pud ding is baking and

the crust forms, skim it off each time for five or six times

befo re allo w ing it to finally form and remain. T hi s is

important.

C O R N P U D D I N G

T a k e six ears of corn. Bo i l and grate them ; add a

spoonful of sugar, pinch of salt , a spoonful of cream, four

yolks of egg s and the fou r whites, we l l whipped up. M ix

we ll . P u t in a buttered dish, and bake for half an hour

in rather warm oven, as you would for a soufflé.

C O R N P U D D I N G

Cut six ears of soft corn from the cob, making several

cuts in each grain , and scrape the milk from the cob. T o

this add one egg, well beaten, one tablespoonful of sugar,

one of butter and one teaspo onfu l of salt. M ix all w ell

together and bake for half an hour.

—"LAUDERDALE/' Virginia.



C U S T A R D B R E A D

T a k e three pie plates. In the f irst one put some sweet

milk with a spoonful of powdered cinnamon; in the second

one beat up four eggs, whites and yolks; in the third one put

some bro wn s ug ar. Cu t some slices of stale bread, dip

them first in the milk, then in the eggs, and roll them in the

brown sugar and fry them in some butter unti l brown.

Pu t those that are cooked in a hot plate. Y o u can only

cook three at a time in a saucepan. K ee p them hot.

Sprinkle a l i t t le powdered sugar and serve with a wine

sauce for dessert. — " U N C L E J O H N / ' S . C .

M I N C E - M E A T

One pound of raisins, one pound of currants, one pound

of sugar, one pound of suet, al l chopped; two pounds of

apples, raw, and chopped; two ounces of candied orange

and lemon peel; the juice of one lemon; one pint of brandy

O R r u m . _ E . S . W I L L I S .

C A N D I E D O R A N G E

Pee l and qua rter the oran ges. M ak e a syrup in the pro-

portion of one pound of sug ar to one pint of water. T he n

take it from the f ire and dip the quarters of orange in the

syrup. L e t them d rain on a f ine sieve placed ove r a platter,

so that the syr up will not be wa sted. L et them drain until

cool, when the sugar will crystall ize.

H O W T O M A K E A C A R A M E L

Four tablespoonfuls of any kind of sugar, one table-

spoon ful of cold wate r. L et it cook until i t candies, mo re

or less ac co rd ing to color. If yo u w ish it to color a pud-

ding, put it in the mold first, and then pour in your pud-



ding . A no the r w ay is to add it drop by drop to a cream

or custard. O r, i f yo u l ike better, pour it ove r yo ur pud-

ding or cake.

F R U I T I N I T S O W N J U I C E

Prepare your fruit for eat ing by removing the stones

and paring if necessary; put it in a closed vessel and expose

it to a scalding heat, either in a dry oven or one filled with

w ater, takin g care not to let i t burn. F il l up ja rs and seal

them ca refu lly. K ee p them in a cool place. Stone ja rs

are the best. T h e fru it spoils i f expo sed to the air.

P R A L I N E C O C O A N U T

Take a fresh cocoanut, break it open and grate it care-

fully . T a k e a cu pfu l to tw o cu pfu ls and a half of the best

wdiite su gar . P u t the sug ar in a nice clean saucepan to

cook until i t candies. A d d the cocoanut. L et it cook a

mo ment, turn ing it al l the t ime. P u t it in pats on a large

china dish or a piece of marble. D o the same with brow n

sugar.

P R A L I N E P E C A N S

Take a cupful of well and carefully peeled pecan nuts.

Take two cupfuls of brown sugar and half a cupful of water.

L e t simm er on the fire until it candies. P u t in the nuts.

Stir them all the time until the sugar adheres to the nuts.

B e car efu l it does not burn. P u t in a plate to cool and

serve. D o the same thin g, but do not turn it. P ut them

a spoonful at a time in small paper boxes or in pats on a

dish. T h e same thin g can be done with peanuts. P ea -

nuts powdered and added to ice cream is delicious.

(Sold on the street corners in New Orleans.)



C A K E S

G I N G E R B R E A D

One quart of flour, one-half pound of butter, one-

quarter pound of sugar, f ive eggs, one-half pint of mo-

lasses, one-half cupful of ginger, one teaspoonful of soda.

L O A F O F G I N G E R B R E A D

A loaf of gingerbread is good enough to make one

quite indifferent to the fact that it is by no means an

economy. T o ma ke on e: w ork a cupfu l of butter unti l

creamy, then m ix w ith i t a cupfu l of brow n suga r. Sepa-

rate the whites and yolks of four eggs, and beat both until

l ight, froth ing the wh ites. St ir the eg gs w ith the butter

and sugar and add a cupful of sour cream mixed with a

cupful of molasses. B efo re pu tt ing the molasses and cream

together, add to the cream two teaspoonfuls of soda, dis-

solved in a l it t le w ar m wa ter. M easu re four cup fuls of

flour and mix with it a teaspoonful of salt and a teaspoonful

of yel low ginge r. A d d this to the batter. D o al l the m ix-

ing as qu ickly and ligh tly as possible. B ak e thirty minutes

with moderate heat .

M O L A S S E S G I N G E R B R E A D

The molasses must be the unrefined black New Orleans

molasses and the sugar must be the coarse, dark, unrefined

brown sugar. One cupful of butter (melted), one cupful of

molasses, one cupful of brown sugar, two eggs well beaten,

two cupfuls of f lour, one tablespoonful of ginger, one tea-

spoon ful cinnam on, one-half teaspoon ful ba kin g soda. Be at

this mixture well and drop it in spoonfuls on a baking sheet



or roast ing

F

cm .

UjJi \_CV-

H wiui o, wwuuvu opwwii very thin

and evenly over the pan and bake ten or twelve minutes in

a m ode rate oven. L et it cool a little af te r it is dr aw n from

the oven, and then cut it up into any desired shapes.

— M R S . B R I D G H A M .

D R O P P U F F S

Delicious for dessert. Ser ved w ith pow dered suga r or

w in e sauce. F o ur ounces of flour, tw o eg gs , dessertspoon-

ful of white sugar, pinch of salt, sherry glass of brandy, a

good tumbler of sweet milk, a teaspoonful of orange flower

wa ter. Be at i t a l l up thor ou ghly. D ro p a spoon ful in

plenty of very hot lard. T u rn them over unti l they are a

golden color. Sp rinkle a l itt le pow dered sugar over them

and serve very hot.

G I N G E R C A K E

One teacupful of molasses, one teacupful of brown sugar,

one teacupful of butter, three teacupfuls of f lour (s i fted),

three eggs, one tablespoonful of powdered ginger, one tea-

spoo nful of soda. R ub sugar and butter well together. Bea t

eggs well and add. Then stir in molasses, ginger, f lour, and

last, the soda, dissolved in a little m ilk or water. B ak e

quickly.

— A L I S O N .

S T R A W B E R R Y S H O R T C A K E

Two cupfuls of f lour (s i f ted) , two eggs , one cupful of

sugar, a good half cupful of sour milk or cream; the latter is

best. M i x half a teasp oon ful of ba kin g soda in the cream .

U se a steel fork . Be at the butter to a cream ; add the sug ar

first, then eggs, one at a time, and milk, and flour alter-

nately. Co ok in buttered pie plates in the oven like corn

bread. P ut confection between.



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S A V A N N E

G o t t s c h a l k ' s f a m o u s ' S a v a n n e " w a s w r i t t e n o n t h i s t h e m e



L E O N I E P E N I N ' S D R Y C A K E

One cupful sugar, one cupful flour, dried in the oven and

sifted, one cup ful butter, three egg s. Be at all togeth er in

a bow l ve ry tho ro ug hly . Bu tter tw o pie plates, and put a

little flour in the plates, then put in your cake and bake in

the oven.

The same receipt can be used for chocolate cake, put-

ting all the dough in one pie plate, and when once it is

cooked and cooled off, you slice in half and butter with

apricot jam, and put the slices together again with a nice

chocolate icing on top.

D E L I C A T E C A K E

One teacupful of melted butter, two teacupfuls of pul-

veriz ed sug ar. Stir butter and sug ar to a cre am ; add one

teacupful of sweet milk, one tablespoonful of vanilla, and

the w hite s of eigh t eg gs beaten to a stiff froth . La stly

add three teacupfuls of sifted flour (measured before sift-

ing) and two even teaspoonfuls of baking powder, thor-

ou gh ly m ixed w ith the flour. T h is makes tw o cakes. D o

not move the pans while baking until the cake is nearly done,

unless it should bake too much on one side, when it must

be car efu lly done to avoid its fall ing . T h e eight yolks

make a nice cake by adding two whole eggs and beating

all togeth er. T h en take the same ingredients as above, and

when poured in the pan stick full of nicely shred citron.

C O M M O N C A K E

One cupful of butter, two of sugar, three of f lour, four

egg s, a l itt le m ilk, soda and nutm eg. Be at the sug ar and

butter tog ether . B ea t the eg gs separately, and m ix with

sugar and butter and add the flour.



S M A L L S P O N G E C A K E

Five eggs, one-half pound of sugar, one-half pound

of flour.

I N D I A N S P O N G E C A K E

One cupful of Indian meal, one-half cupful of f lour, two

cupfuls of milk, two tablespoonfuls of molasses, one tea-

spoonful of saleratus.

G I N G E R B R E A D

One cupful of butter, one cupful of brown sugar, four

eggs, one cupful of sour cream, one cupful of molasses,

one teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in warm water, four

cupfuls of f lour, teaspoonful of salt, two teaspoonfuls of

yel low ginger .

F L A T C O O K I E S

One quart of flour, one pint of sweet milk, one table-

spoonful of butter, one-half teaspoonful of salt, one-half

teaspoonful of baking powder, one-half cupful of sugar.

Rub butter thoroughly with hands; add sugar, milk and

flour. M ix we ll w ith for k. Ro ll, cut out w ith tumbler on

flat board. H an dle ver y l ightly. Ba ke twe nty minutes.

L E O N I E ' S C A K E

One cupful sugar, one cupful f lour dried in the oven and

sifted , one cup ful nice fres h m ilk, three egg s, w hites and

yolks. Pu t eve ryth ing together in a bow l and beat i t

tho rou gh ly. P u t it in one or tw o well-buttered pie plates,

according to the thickness you wish to make your cakes.

Sprinkle a l itt le f lour over your buttered pie plates before

pu tting in yo ur cake. B ak e in the oven. If you w ish to

make a chocolate cake, make your cake (by the above re-

65



ceipt) ail inch and a half thick, slice it in half, butter it

with apricot paste or jam, then put on top a nice layer of

chocolate cream, as fol lows: Take three tablets of Mail-

lard's best chocolate. Bo il a cup ful of m ilk and let the

chocolate dissolve in it , stirring it over a slow fire for a

quarter of an hou r. T h e n spread on top of yo ur cake w hile

hot.

S W E E T W A F E R S

Six eggs, one pint of f lour, two ounces of melted butter,

one and a half cupfuls of powdered sugar, one cupful of

milk, one teaspoon ful of nutm eg. Be at w hites and yolks

separately and ve ry stiff . Ru b the su ga r and butter together,

and work in first the yolks, then the milk, then the flour

and wh ites. Ba ke in well-buttered w af er or wa ff le irons

very quickly, br ow nin g as l ittle as possible. Ro ll them

while hot upon a smooth, round stick not larger than your

little f inger, slipping it out carefully when the wafer takes

the right shape.

M O L A S S E S C A K E

A cupful of sugar and a cupful of butter stirred to a

cream, then a cupful of molasses and a cupful of milk with

a teaspoonful of baking powder, f ive eggs beaten very l ight;

then stir in the other ingredients alternately with a cupful of

flour. St ir the batter w ell and bake it quickly.

S W E E T W A F E R S

One pint of f lour, one teacupful of sugar, one tablespoon-

ful of butter, three eggs, separated and well beaten, one-

half cu pfu l of m ilk. M ix Wt*>r the same as for cake and

bake in wafer- irons.



C H O C O L A T E I C I N G

Take three tablets, or one-quarter of a pound of Me-

nier's best chocolate, one cupful of milk, which you boil.

Put in the chocolate to dissolve, stirring it gently for a

qua rter of an hour. L et it cool off and then apply to the

cake.



Cooking in Old Creole Days

A R T A N D S C I E N C E O F S A L A D M A K I N G

N o careless hand can m ake a per fect salad. T o be

sure, Nanette, the cook, who tosses in this, adds a sprink-

ling of that and pours in oil and vinegar with seeming

abandon, sends to the table prepa rations fit for the god s,

But Nanette, in her line, is an artist who has acquired

the simple stroke that produ ces the m asterpiece. Occa sion-

ally there arises a genius in lay ranks who snaps her finger

at experience and arrives at Nanette's degree of skil l by

inspiration. B ut gen iuses are fe w .

In no other dish is there so wide range for individu-

ality of treatmen t as in the salad. N o sing le process in its

preparation is unimp ortant. T h e meats and vegetables

must not be too coarse nor too fine. In m ak in g them

ready the chopping knife and meat grinder must have no

part. O nl y the crispest, fresh est veg etab les should enter

into its com position. M uc h depends upon the qua lity of

the vineg ar and oil. Sh arp vin ega r is to be avoided. If

that on hand is too sour w eake n it w ith a l ittle wa ter. A

little lemon juice may be used if greater acidity is wanted.

A ready supply of herb vinegars, such as tarragon, nas-

turtium, chervil, celery and mint, add greatly to the possi-

bilities in flavoring. T h e wis e salad m aker has at her

finger tips a knowledge of the adaptability of the different

vinegars, f lavors and foundation materials. T h e tarragon

flavor, for instance, is delicious w ith meats and fish. T h e

nasturtium, most persons think, lends itself best to vege-

tables. M in t vin eg ar has its votarie s, but m any people ob-

ject to its flavor, excepting with lamb, chicken and certain

green salads. C eler y vineg ar combines we ll w ith nearly

all salads.

Chopped parsley, chervil, sheep sorrel, nasturtiums

6 9



(leaves, f lowers and stems), and other herbs chopped fine

and sprinkled over the salad or incorporated with the dress-

ing, r ing del igh tful changes. A t a certain farmho use this

summer tender wintergreen leaves from the woods, used

m odera tely in vario us salads, puzzled the .guests w ith th eir

delicate fragrance.

Garlic, at which too many persons shudder, because of

malodorous memories, lacks the respect in this country that

its character merits. U se d prop erly, ga rlic is mo re deli-

cate and delicious in flavor than onion. It is the m isuse of

the vegetable that has gained for it its undeserved notoriety.

T h e French know to a T i ts w orth. A single c love of

garl ic , or two at the most, are enough for a large mixture.

It is a good idea to rub the bowl in which the salad is

dressed or the dish in which the dressing is made with a

halve d clov e- of gar lic. It is stil l better, some think, to

saturate a piece of bread with its odor and in turn to use

the bread, transfixed w ith a fork , to wipe the dish. A n -

other way of obtaining the flavor is to chop a clove or two

of garlic to infinitesimal fineness and mix it with the other

ingredients.

If onion is used, it is always preferable to employ the

juic e and not the pulp. B y some cooks the onion is grate d,

but even this method leaves tangible evidences of the most

odorous of vegetables to catch in the teeth and retain the

flavor in the mo uth. T o some persons, onions are hu rtful,

but they are seldom inju re d by the juice. T o obtain the

juice, cut the onion in two, hold it on a fork over the mix-

ture, and, with the back of a silver knife or spoon, press

the cut side until the juice drops.

With such materials as lobsters, crabs, shrimps, Jeru-

salem artichokes, etc., which are l iked for their individual

flavors, it is a mistake to use flavored vinegars, onions or

garl ic . Su ch pungen t

s

are for accompaniments



of neutral hue, w hic h need emb ellishment. W it h all salad

preparations, except with the sweet kind, of course, capers

and chopped olives and pickles in right proportion may al-

ways be used.

To blend the various flavors so that no one will be over-

shadowed by another is the acme of the salad maker's ef-

fort. Co ld cooked vegetab les, such as potatoes, beets, car-

rots, string beans, celery knobs, etc., will not absorb the

dressing and its f lavors. T o obtain the best results mo st

cooked vegetables should be covered with a French dress-

ing while they are hot and should be left to cool in it .

When they are cold they should be thoroughly drained.

Then they may be dressed with mayonnaise, French or

boiled dressing, as prefer red. Germ an cooks ma rinate hot

cabbage in this w a y for a cabbage salad. W it h the ma ri-

nate may be placed an onion or two, sliced; some celery,

parsley, chervi l or other herb. T h e Fre nch dressing may

be made with any preferred v inegar .

Utensi ls , ingredients and everything pertaining to the

w ork should be chilled at the start. T h e lettuce, cress or

other green, as well as any raw vegetable, such as celery

or radishes, should stand in ice-water for an hour before

they are w ante d. Gre at care should be taken, how ever,

when they come from the bath to dry them thoroughly.

Drops of water wil l carry with them to the bottom of the

dish an oily l iquid that will detract greatly from the dainty

appearance of the salad. In order to dry the vegetables

drain and shake them in a colander, and then toss them

about in a large, dry towel.

Stirring the ingredients together is the unpardonable

sin of the art. B y that mea ns are produced the stran ge con-

coctions w hic h are miscal led "sa lad s." A l ight tossing

with a fork in each hand will properly distribute the ele-

ments and seasonings and leave a l ight, crisp mixture.



Salads are practical ly of two classes—light and heavy

—the former suited to dinners, and both to luncheons and

suppers. N o one w ou ld think, of course, of introd ucing

lobster or chicken salad among the courses of a heavy

dinn er. Su ch a dish is calculated to appe ar as the pièce

de résistance of à meal.

The appearance of the salad is not the least important

fact or in its preparation. V eg eta ble s that clash in color,

l ike beets, carrots and tomatoes, should never be mingled.

The hue of the mayonnaise, or cooked dressing, may be

var ied by differ ent devices. F o r green , spinach juic e can

be used, or a mixture of herbs, such as lettuce, cress, chives,

chervil and parsley, may be crushed together until their

juic es are expressed. T h e add ition of this l iquid to m ayon -

naise converts i t into R av igo te sauce. T h e pow dered coral

of the lobster, softened with lemon juice, produces an at-

tractive red. F o r other shades of red, tom ato puree or

beet juice m ay be employed. Y o lk of eg g w il l serve for

yel low.

Vegetable and fruit cups afford no end of variations.

Celery knobs boiled until they are tender, cut in two and

scooped into cups are delicious filled with a macedoine of

vegetab les. A sl ice is usu ally taken fro m the bottom of

each to enable it to stand. T h e vegetables are first m ari-

nated, then drained, fil led into the cups and topped off with

a spoonfu l of mayonnaise. T h e w hite cups arranged on

a bed of green cress or lettuce produce a charming effect.

For meat, fish or other mixtures the work of the server

wil l be greatly enhanced if the lettuce is first arranged in

little nests in the dish and they are filled with the prepara-

tion. Th es e nests m ay be easily l ifted w ith the for k and

spoon fro m the dish to the individu al plate. T o a rra ng e

them put the stem ends of three or four tender, curled

leaves together, lapping them over each other enough to



make a substantial receptacle. H ollo w ed out cucum bers,

beets, tomatoes, green and red peppers and apples may all

do duty as cups.

A solid, pretti ly shaped cabbage with the centre cut

out ma kes an ornam ental bow l for cabbage salad. T h e

cabbage should stand on a bed of curly parsley or other

green. Ribbo ns of red peppers m ay ed ge the platter. T h e

salad should be heaped in the cabba ge. It m ay be ga r-

nished simply with stuffed olives and tiny gherkins.

Sweet peppers are too l i t t le known, although they are

gaining in popular ity wi th Am ericans. W ith man y vege-

tables they are ve ry delicious. T h e seeds and w hit e inner

pulp should be thoroughly removed (these are the parts

that bit e) . T h en cut the peppers into sma ll strips or dice.

The peppers may be used in salads of cabbage, mixed vege-

tables of potatoes, beets, beans, etc.; tomatoes and various

other mixtures.

Salad dressings are pract ical ly three—mayonnaise,

French and cooked dressing. W hip pe d cream is an im-

provement in most cases to the mayonnaise and boiled

kinds. It should be add ed jus t be fore the dre ssin g is used.

In the summer the bowl in which mayonnaise is made

should stand in ice w hile the process is go in g on. T h e old

time-devouring way by dropping the oi l with one hand and

stirring with the other has happily been obviated by va-

rious oi l dropping inventions which have reduced the work

to a minim um . T h e housekeeper is often puzzled to know

what to do if the quantity of mayonnaise needed is too

much for one ra w yo lk and not sufficient for two . B y

mashing a hard cooked yolk with the raw yolk the problem

will be settled. T h e process of m ak in g is the same as if

both yo lks ha d been uncoo ked. T h e y are first seasoned w ith

salt and w hi te pepper and m ustard if it is wa nted . T h en the

oil is dropped slowly while the beating continues rapidly.



quart of clear meat stock or one quart of water tinctured

with beef extract . Fla vo r w ith w hite vine gar and lemon

juice un til it is pro pe rly tart. P u t in a couple of blades of

mace, some cloves and a bay leaf and stir over the fire

until the gelatin e is dissolved. T o the beaten w hite s of

two eggs add a l ittle cold water and the juice of a lemon.

Stir them into the jelly and stir and boil for a minute or

two. A n e g g beater is convenient to use in bea ting the

eg gs into the jel ly. D ra w the saucepan to a cool part of

the stove and let it stand five or ten minutes. T h en strain

the jel ly throu gh a jel ly bag. T o color the jel ly, the de-

vices mentioned for mayonnaise may be employed.

Tomato jel ly requires a can of tomatoes, an ounce of

gelatine and season ings. So ak the gelatine in one-half cup-

ful of cold w ater for half an hour. M ean w hile cook the to-

matoes with three tablespoonfuls of v inegar, a teaspoonful

of salt, a tablespoonful of sugar and a dash of paprika.

Then add the gelatine to the tomatoes and stir until it is

dissolved. Stra in the jel ly throu gh a jel ly ba g and mold.

The tomato jel ly may be served on a bed of lettuce with

a mayonnaise, as has already been suggested.

Apple cups may be f i l led with a salad of mushrooms

(cooked), stuffed ol ives (sl iced), nuts and a few del icate

t ips of celery. M oisten the m ixtu re w ith Fre nch dressing

and top off w ith m ayonn aise and whippe d cream. T hi s

salad may be served with lettuce instead of in apples.

Shredded red pepper, stoned ol ives and cabbage make

a delicious combination.

S A L A D S A U C E

Rub with a fork the yolks of two eggs, boi led hard,

and cold, with fresh mustard and a l ittle sauce; four table-

spoonfuls of oil to one and a half of vinegar, mixing into

a cream. C ho p fine chervil , tarr ago n, and use w ith lettuce.

The sauce should be kept separate until needed.



H I N T S F O R H O U S E K E E P E R S

Keep the cover on for all dry vegetables, and off for all

green vegetables.

Cook all green vegetables quickly over good fire.

Do not let them stand, but serve at once, or they will

lose their color and taste watery.

Let the spinach and string beans frolic in plenty of

boil ing water.

Waters in which vegetables have been boiled can be

used in cooking, except potato water and cucumber water.

They have been known to poison a dog.

Good soups can be made with rice water by adding well-

cooked tom atoes, an onion, parsley, salt and pepper. T he

same is true of string bean water, and a delicious soup can

be made of spinach water by adding spinach, onion, pars-

ley and a mashed potato.

An excellent soup can be made by boiling a can of corn

in one quart of milk and w ater , equal proportions. Season

w ith salt, pepper and butter. A f t e r it has boiled ten min-

utes, stir in three well-beaten egg s. Se rv e hot w ith a

little toasted cracker added just before sending to table.

Cooking is l ike gardening—always something to learn.

The proper quantity of salt for rice is a teaspoonful to every

large cupful of rice.

You can get much nutrition from cracked bones, but be

careful to strain them, and get all the small bones out of

your juice, which can then be added to gravies.

Always hang your fowls by the legs, i t makes them more

tender.

Green veg etables m ust be cooked in boiling wa ter (b y

"green" vegetables are meant al l those growing above



ground), throwing the vegetables in i t , salted, and not

covered. D r y vegetables, or those under grou nd , are cooked

in cold water, and not salted at first, but when half cooked.

If you salt your vegetables too soon they become hard, and

are difficult to cook.

The flesh of fowls should be wiped with a dry or moist

cloth, as need be, and never washed under a spigot, as that

destroys the individual taste of the fowl.

Wash your green vegetables quickly in plenty of water.

Do not let them soak.

The great secret of a good cuisine is to leave to every

dish its own particular taste, and not to put indiscreetly

mace, cloves and aromatic herbs in everything, or they will

all taste alike.

Salting draws out the nutritive part of f ish, as it does

of meats, and salt fish should be used as a relish only.

The juices of fish, especially shellfish, are of an alkaline

nature, and this renders lemon juice or vinegar desirable as

a neutral iz ing agency.

Only use the best of sweet oil , and the sweetest, freshest

butter and lard, and the ve ry best of ev ery thin g. If yo u

have any doubts about any article of food throw it away,

and do not r isk m akin g any one i l l T h at is poor econ om y

Do not throw away the bones of turkey or chicken.

Crack them and let them boil for two or three hours in

a little w ate r. P u t in also any nice bits of fo w l that are

left , part icularly the w ings . T o this add any soup stock

you have, and with a l itt le barley or rice or sago you have

a no urish ing soup. Seas on w ith salt, pepper and any aro-

mat ic herbs—any vegetable you have on hand.

With a remnant of cold chicken, cut it up with celery

and cold potatoes, season with French dressing, ornament

with lettuce leaves.

Botanical ly, potatoes Y ~

1

to the same poisonous order



as tomatoes and contain an acid juice which is unpleasant to

the taste and rend ers them indigestible. T h is lies in and

near the skin of the potato. It is dra w n out by heat. W h en

potatoes are baked, it escapes in the steam, if they are

opened at once, and when they are boiled it is absorbed in

the wa ter. It is best to peel the potatoes befo re usin g them,

and to let them soak in cold water, covered by the water.

New potatoes are watery, as the starch is not fully devel-

oped. T h e y have a ve ry thin skin, w hich ma y be rubbed

off or brushed off.

Put in a f lat dish what remains of hominy from break-

fast, smooth it flat with the back of a spoon an inch thick;

cut it up in diamond shape when cold two or three inches

square. Sa lt and fr y in hot lard. D o not let it stand.

Serve hot.

To any rice left over add sweet milk to soften it .

L e t it stand. A d d eno ugh flour to keep it together. Salt.

L et it stand half an hour. Ro ll a spoo nful of it in you r

han ds, flatten it do w n and fr y in hot lard. So m e persons

add eggs.

O K R A H I B I S C U S

De Brazza, the great explorer, told me that in his expe-

ditions into Africa whenever they stopped for a few months

the first thing they planted was Okra Hibiscus, because

they considered that vegetable to be so wholesome and

nutritious.

B R E A D

E a t yo ur bread stale and not fresh. H av e it sliced,

dried in the oven and then toasted.

G U M B O F I L É

Gumbo Fi lé is a powder prepared by the Indians.

W h en the leaves of the trees are verv tender and



green, they gather them, dry them, pound them and put

them in bags. T h is powd er ma y be found at Pa rk &

Ti l ford 's , N. Y. , or at Solar i ' s Grocery Store, Chartres St . ,

New Orleans.

G O F I O

Gofio is some corn meal dried in the oven and salted.

It is an Ind ian prepa ration. T h e y put it in a ba g and eat

i t on their tramps, or when they go out hunting.

H O W T O D E S T R O Y F L I E S

To one pint of milk add a quarter of a pound of raw

sugar and tw o ounces of grou nd pepper. Sim m er them to-

gether for eight or ten minutes and place it about in shal-

low dishes. T h e flies attack it gre ed ily and in a few m o-

ments are suffocated. B y this method kitchens may be

kept clear of f l ies all summer without the danger of poison.

F O O D S T H A T S T E A L F L A V O R S

It is generally understood that butter and milk can be

tainted by proximity to decided flavors or odors, but not

that all foods absorb and give out more or less of their

individual aroma.

Vegetables of the plainest variet ies are the worst of-

fenders, not only onion and leek and the more pronounced

ones, but the tame little beet and the saucy radish.

The subtle ways of these demure ones is something that

households should guard against , but do not.

" W e do get so t ired of board ing," exc laims a wom an

who has gone back and forth from hotels to private board-

ing houses, but she does not realize the underlying reason.

The real reason is that the foods are all kept in the

same place and all cooked in the same atmosphere, double

occasion for the flavor exchange that takes place.



Fruits of the handsomest varieties are prone to make

this exchange, and cheeses, wines and even nuts will do the

same thing.

You leave celery in the ice chest with cream cheese,

and if you have a discriminating taste you won't know

T

which is which by nightfal l .

Cream is so sensitive to influences that shut up in the

cold box with a peach it will taste l ike peach ice cream be-

fore two hours.

It is difficult to keep these items apart always, but care

can be exercised by placing the more delicate articles in

covered jars and the vegetables in paper wrappers or even

paraffin. K ee p the ones mo st l ikely to exc ha ng e confidences

in upper and lower partitions of the ice box, remembering

that f lavor crossing is an epicurean annoyance.

M R S . P H I L L I P S ' C E L E B R A T E D P I C K L E P E A C H E S

Take a peck of half ripe peaches, put them into a strong

pickle of salt and w ate r that w ill bear an eg g. L et them

rem ain in it three days, then take them out. D ra in them.

Put them into a stone jar and stew them over one ounce

mace, one ounce cloves, one ounce grated nutmeg, a handful

of sliced green ginger and garlic, two bottles of mustard and

cove r w ith best vin eg ar , cold. T h e y will not be fit for use

for three months.

H O W T O M A K E A L U N C H W I T H N O T H I N G , A N D A G O O D

S O U P W I T H W H A T R E M A I N S F R O M B R E A K F A S T

Some years ago we were at the Bever ly House in Massa-

chusetts. W e wer e invited to lunch w ith fr iends at H am il-

ton, tw elve m iles off . W h en w e arrived our host met

us at the door in his shirt-sleeves, very red in the face

w ith excitem ent. H e threw up his arms in despair and

exclaimed: "Didn't you get mv despatch tel l ing you not to



come? My wife is i l l in bed; the cook left us yesterday, and

there isn't a thin g to eat in the ho use " H a vi n g Y an ke e

blood and French blood in my veins, I was not to be downed

by such trifling obstacles, but accepted the situation at once

and answered: "If you wil l al low me to go into your

kitchen and get some one to help me I will see what can

be done." T h e answer was , "W e 'l l al l help you , for w e are

very hu ng ry and it is past tw o o'cl oc k." I looked into the

larder, and there I found a desperate looking bone, the rem-

nant of a le g of mutton , w ith tw o cold potatoe s. I cut into

small pieces what I could find of meat; I did the same with

the potatoes, and put them to simmer with a little cold

wa ter, salt and pepper. I sent the bo ys to the ga rde n to see

what they could find. They soon came back with fresh

tomatoes, lettuce, pa rsley and onions. I add ed a little par-

sley and onion to my Irish stew; then I boiled six eggs for

twenty minutes; made a nice white sauce with cream, butter

and a little flour, flavoring it with a piece of onion, parsley,

cayenne pepper; cut the eggs in half, put them in the cream

sauce in a double saucepan until ready to serve, des ceufs

a la M orelle. A fisherwoman in De au ville, Fra nce , tau gh t

me how to m ake this dish. T h en I sliced some tomatoes,

salted and peppered and powdered them with crumbs of

toasted bread, fried them in hot butter, put them in a hot

dish, poached six eggs and put them on the fried tomatoes,

made some dip toast, a nice French dressing for the lettuce

and some good hot coffee, and in an hour and a half we all

sat do w n to lunch in joll y spirits. T h e lady of the house

paid me the compliment to say it was the best tasting break-

fast ever had in her house.

The English butler recognized me later in l i fe as the

lady who always cooked her own lunch when she went out.

A lady once said to my dear mother: "I wish you

would lend me your cookery book, I want to ask you



to dinner and treat you to some thing go od ." T h e answer

was, "You had better dine with me, as I know my book

by heart ."

H O W T O M A K E A GOOD S O U P W I T H W H A T R E M A I N S FR O M B R E A K F A S T

Take the remnants of a beefsteak, cut away all fat, cut

the meat in small pieces, put them in a saucepan, cover

your meat with cold water, put the lid half way on, let it

simmer and draw half an hour, add to it two or three

spoo nfuls of cooked tom ato es; cut a cooked potato, a

carr ot sliced in two , half a n onion, a sma ll piece of cab-

bag e, parsley, salt and pepper. L et it simm er tw o hours.

If you find it short add a l ittle cold water with your vege-

tables and you will have a delicious soup.

— " M O N R E P O S . "

If this modest work can be of use to young house-

keepers, I shall feel rewarded for the pains I have taken in

putting it together.



P U N C H

Put in the rind of three lemons, pour one wineglassful

of Jamaica rum, two wineglassfuls of brandy, three table-

spoonfuls of loaf sugar, a tumblerful and a half of water

ice. P ou r on one bottle of cham pagn e.

— M R S . E U G E N I A P H I L L I P S .

C L A R E T P U N C H

Slice three lemons, pour over one wineglassful of Ja-

maica rum, one glassful of strong green tea, sugar to taste,

one bottle of claret. P ut in tw o or three cup fuls of w ell-

pounded ice. - C E L E S T I N E E U S T I S .

B U C K N E R P U N C H

For each quart bottle of champagne mix and add one

wineglass ful of good brandy, one wineglass ful of good

rum, one wineglassful of good arrack, one wineglassful

of good kirsh, one wineglassful of good anisette, one wine-

glass ful of good Maraschino, one wineglass ful of good Cu-

ragoa, two slices of ripe pineapple, two slices of sweet

orange, one todd y glassfu l of pulverized sugar. A t f irst

put in a small quantity of ice, and later fill the bowl with

larg e lum ps of ice. It should stand three hours befor e

using.

N.B.—The foregoing concoct ion would, I th ink, be the

death or destruction of any one w ho sipped it. I should

advise two quarts of water to each quart of punch

—E. E.

" E G G N O G G "

Yolks of th irty- two eggs and th irty- two heaping table-

spoonfuls of pow dere d sugar , beaten to a froth. A d d to

this one an d a ha lf pi an dy and on e-half pint of



M ade ira or sherry wine. T o this add tw o and a half

quarts of whipped cream; then beat the whites of the thirty-

two eggs to a stiff froth, and stir al l thoroughly together,

the whites of the eggs being added last of al l .

— M R S . T A N I E R .

C A F E P A R F A I T

Take two quarts of sweet fresh cream and put it in a

bow l. P ou nd in a clean cloth one pound of ice and add to

the cream . A d d a pint and a half of essence of coffee , and

sugar to taste.

Take two glass pitchers and pour the mixture from one

pitcher into the other until tho rou ghly m ixed . Ke ep on

ice fifteen minutes until ready to serve. This is very suitable

for an afternoon tea in summer.

_

C

E L E S T I N E E U S T I S .



L A C U I S I N E C R E O L E

À L'USAGE DES PETITS MÉNAGES



U N P I T I D I N E C R E O L E

A U X D E L E G U E S

D E N E W O R L E A N S P R E S S C L O B , L A L E A G U E

I N T E R N A T I O N A L D E P R E S S E C L O B ,

Dans TAtheneum, coté l 'encoignure Cl io et St . Charles,

S A M I D I , 1 9 F E V R I E R , C I L A L A 1 8 9 8 ,

Dans la Vi l le Nouvel le Orléans, Louisiane,

Coté neuf heurs du Soir.

Hail lons cassés vaut

Mieux passé tout nu.

Absinthe et 'nisette.

Dans la Louis iane yé trouvé bon ca las ,

Des Huitres , Choupique et bamboula .

Hu i t r e s B a y ou Ma r i n g ou i n .

Avec un bon gombo préparé par Si lv ie ,

Sans jamais babi l l é mo passé mo la vie.

Go m bo fi lé, Bisq ue 'crébiches.

Pit i Legumes avec di ' Sel .

Quand mo té gamin

Mo mama di moin ,

Co'bul l ion poisson,

Mo garçon,

C'est qui ' chose qui bon.

Courtboull ion Patassa.

H A U T S A U T E R N E S 1 87 8— C alv et e t C ie . *

Ravet jamais gagnin ra ison devont poule .

Paté Poule .

"Crébiches c 'est fouti bétai l ."

Crébiches Bouill i .

Chaqu'n connain ça qua pé bouil l i dans so chaudière.

H a r i c o t s R o u g e — R i z .

S T . J U L I E N 1 8 7 6 — C a l v e t e t C i e .



Ye vanté ye Terapin,

Mais goûté un fois Caœne,

Et vous mangé qui chose qui fin.

Fricassé Caœne.

'Fo pas marré chien avec saucisses.

Jambalaya Tchourisses .

Dinner Creole li pas complet

Sans piti cochon di lait.

Coc hon m aron farci rot i,

Salade doucet et chicore.

Un zozo dans mo la main, vaut

Mieux que plein zozo qua pé

Voltigé dans bois.

Cailles laurier en baguette

Cresson Bayou des Herbes .

C H A M P A G N E DE G . H . M U M M ET CIE.

Lagniappe c'est bitin qui bon.

M ais tac tac, Pral ines Pacan es,

Pa in Patates, L a Cuite.

Qua rti la Glace. Qu arti Gateau.

Biscu it, Ne stom ac m ilatte,

Pom' cak Tante Z iz ine .

Yèn a pas Soco ni Plaquemines,

Mais na donne vous ça qui na.

Banans, Z 'O ran ge , Canne sucre , Mandarine.

C a f é C r é o l e n o i r e ( " M o r n i n g J o y " ) .

Chatte Grille pair di feu.

Brulo.

Cigarettes perique—papier mais.

Cigaret tes Créole—papier jaune.

Quand na pas choual, monté bourique;

Quand na pas bourique, monté cabri;

Quand na pas cabri, monté jambe.

Désigné et executé par G ^

v

oi t ier , S teward N. O. P. C .



A S M A L L C R E O L E D I N N E R

T O T H E D E L E G A T E S O F

T H E N E W O R L E A N S P R E S S C L U B , I N T E R N A -

T I O N A L L E A G U E O F T H E P R E S S C L U B ,

In the Atheneum, corner of Clio and St. Charles Streets,

S A T U R D A Y , 1 9 T H F E B R U A R Y , 1 8 9 8 ,

In the City of New Orleans, Louisiana,

Any time near nine o'clock.

Tattered rags are better than to go naked.

Absinthe and Anisette.

In Louisiana they f ind good calas, (cake eaten with coffee) .

Oysters , Choupique and bamboula (nat ional dance) .

Oysters f rom Mosqui to Bayou.

With a good gombo prepared by Si lv ie ,

Without ever sco lding I would pass my l i fe .

Go m bo filé, Bisq ue 'crébiches.

Small vegetables with salt .

When I was a l i t t l e boy

My mother would say

This stewed f ish, my son,

Is mighty good.

Courtboull ion Patassa from Bayou Patassa.

H A U T S A U T E R N E 1 878 — Ca lv et & C o.

A cockroach never holds its own before a hen.

Chicken Paté.

A crawfish is a darned beast

Boiled crawfish.

Every one knows what boils in his own pot.

Red beans with r ice (" 'Hopping John").

S A I N T J U L I E N 1 8 7 6 — C a l v e t & C o .

8 9



They boast of their terrapin,

But once taste Caœne,

And you taste something which is fine.

F r i ca s s ee C a œ n e ( P i g - s k i n ) .

Don't tie your dogs with sausages.

Jambalaya Tchour isses (Rice and blood-puddings) .

A Creole dinner is not complete

Without a little suckling pig.

A runaway pig, stuffed and roasted.

Sweet salad with chickory.

A bird in the hand

Is better than all the birds flying in the woods.

Snipes with laurel leaves en baguette.

Watercresses from Bayou des Herbes .

C H A M P A G N E — G . H . M u m m & C o .

Lagniappe is something very good (a corruption of a

Spanish word which means thrown in a market bas-

ket

over and above).

Pop corn, Su ga red pecans,

Sw eet potato bread, Th ick molasses.

The last

drawn

from

the pots

in the

sugar-house

before it turns

to

sugar.

A fourt h of an ice cream. A fourth of a piece of cake.

Ice cream biscuit. M ulatto stomach (gi ng er br ea d) .

Tante Zizine 's poundcake.

There are no Skipenon grapes and no persimmons,

But we'll give you what there is.

Banan as, Or ang es, S ug ar cane, M andarins.

B l a c k C r e o l e c o f fe e ( " M o r n i n g J o y " ) .

A singed cat fears the fire.

Brulo.

Cigarettes per ique—corn paper .

Creole c igarettes—yel low paper .

When you have no horse, you ride a donkey;

When you have no donkey, you ride a goat;

When you have no goat, you go on foot.

Designed and executed by George G. Voitier , Steward

New Or leans Press Club.



LA CUI SI N E CRÉ O LE À L ' USA GE DE S

PETITS MÉNAGES

I . — G O M B O F I L É

Mettez dans une casserole une cuil lerée de saindoux bien

frais et une de farine laissez-le roussir un brun doré, puis

tournez toujours jusqu'à ce que votre roux devienne un brun

doré. Cou pez un oigno n en petits m orce aux et laissez-le

frire. Cou pez un chapon ou une poule en petits mo rcea ux

et mettez-les dans la casserole, remuez toujours jusqu'à ce

que le poulet brunisse. Q ua nd le tout est d'une jolie couleu r,

coupez une demi tranche de jambon en petits morceaux et

faites frire en ajoutant un piment vert et un rouge, sel et

poivre en gôu t. A jo u te z un demi l itre d'eau bouillante

et laissez le cuire pendan t de ux heu res et dem ie. U n qu art

d'heure avant de servir, ajoutez deux douzaines d'huîtres

avec leur jus. Juste ou m om ent de servir, ajou tez une

cuillerée à soupe de filet en tournant tout le temps, mettez-

le sur le feu un instant to uj o ur s en le trav aillant. N e mettez

pas trop de filet, la cuillère ne doit pas être trop pleine.

Se rve z très chaud avec du riz sec. O u peut me ttre des

crevettes aulieu d'huîtres pour changer.

I I . — G O M B O F E V I S

Répetez la même préparation de volail le que pour le

Go m bo filé, coupez qua tre tom ates crues dans une p oêle, tf

aj o u te z y un canne de fé vi s— ou une l ivre de févis frais

coupés en petites tranches—faites tout revenir dans la poêle

avec une dem i cuillerée de sain do ux pendant une demi-heure

en tournant tout le temps que vous ajoutez au poulet et vous

laissez le tout mijoter sur un petit feu une heure et demie

ou deu x heures. Se rv ez chaud avec du riz sec dans un plat

séparément.



G O M B O Z H E R B E S

Prenez une bonne poignée de feuil les de moutarde, de

betteraves, de radis, d'épinards, de patience, et une salade

de laitue; faites bouillir à gros bouillons, comme des épi-

nards, égouttez, hachez le tout. Ensuite, faites frire

quelques petits morceux de jambon, volail le coupée, ou

poitrine de veau; ajoutez un peu de farine et faites roussir,

mettez les herbes dans la poêle, faites mijoter avec quelques

cuillerées d'eau et serv ez avec du riz sec. Il faut que cela

ait la consistence d'une purée un peu ferme.

G O M B O D E C R A B E S

Prenez une demi l ivre de veau ou une demi volail le,

coupez en tranches, faites un bon roux, ajoutez un demi

b'tre d'eau, faites mitonner sur le feu; épluchez douze ou

quinz e crabes av ec les m ains, co nse rvan t la cha ir seulement ;

faites revenir dans une poêle, avec du beurre, les crabes,

pendant quelques minutes, puis versez-les dans la casserole

sur le jus de veau et n'oubliez pas d'ajouter quelques petits

morceaux de jambon frit , assaisonnez bien au goût et

servez ave c du riz sec. A v a n t de mêler les crabes à la

sauce, i l faut avoir soin de retirer tous les gros morceaux

de viande, afin que le goût de crabe domine.

S O U P E S A L ' O S E I L L E

Faites cuire dans un peu de beurre frais de l 'oseille,

ajoutez de l 'eau, un peu de sel, laissez mijoter 1-2 heure,

mettez un blanc d'œuf dans une tasse, délayez un jaune

*X d'œ uf ave c un m orcea u de beu rre et une cuillerée de crème

si vous aimez, ajoutez à la soupe et versez-le sur des

tranches de pain, servez un peu de cerfeuil haché dessus.

Après avoir cuit l 'oseille, ajoutez trois cuillerées de

tomate bien cuite, ajoutez de l 'eau, sel, faites bouillir, mettez

vermicelle, laissez mijoter longtemps.

F ait es cu ire de l 'oseille comm e ci-dessus, mettez de

l'eau, coupez quelques pommes de terre laissez cuire une

92



heure à feu pas trop vif , passez les pommes de terre au

tamis, si vous préférez, liez avec quelques cuillerées de

crème et versez sur des tranches de pain coupées très-fin.

P O T A G E M A R I N I E R E

Pour six personnes, prenez un litre d'eau faites bouillir.

Dans l 'eau bouillante jetez un oignon coupé en morceaux

que vous avez fait cuire à la poêle, sans prendre couleur,

laissez bouillir cinq minutes, ajoutez deux livres de poisson

de différentes sortes, bien propre et très frais, venant d'être

péché si possible, salez et laissez bouillir modé-rément pen-

dant quinze minutes, liez avec deux cuillerées de ayoli,

laissez cuire deux minutes, l iez de nouveau avec un jaune

d'œufs, f i let de vinaigre ou citron et un morceau de beurre

très frais, passez sur de simples tranches de pain coupées très

fin, servez très-chaud.

Ayol i .—Dans un mortier en marbre ou en bois pi lez une

gousse d'ail quand elle est bouillie ajoutez de l 'huile d'olive

en tournant toujours procédez comme pour la mayon-

naise, dont elle doit avoir là consistance, faites-en deux

ou trois cuil lerées et versez dans le potage en remuant et

tenir seulement au chaud. L e po tage doit être fait très

minutieusement pas trop riche et n'avoir pas le goût d'ai l

il est delicieux.

S O U P E A L A J U L I E N N E

Pour la julienne il faut couper des carottes, navets,

po irea ux , céleri blanc en petits filets. A jo u te r des petits

morceaux de choux-fleurs, des pois verts un peu de persil

hâchez-les faire frire dans du beurre sans les brunir—

ajouter du bouillon de bœuf laisser mijoter à un petit feu

deux heures, par assiettée de soupe, il faut calculer deux

cuillerées de légum es coupés. O u peut le faire au maigre,

à l 'eau aulieu de bouillon, on y ajoute une cuillerée de sucre

si l 'on veut, ce qui est délicieux c'est du céleri cuit avec un

peu de bon bouillon comme légume et mangé avec le poulet.



Notre cuisinière coupait un peu de choux dans la ju-

lienne et y mettait un peu de sucre, c'est très-bon.

R I Z A L A V A L E N C I E N N E S

Mettre dans une casserole très grande, quatre cuillerées

d'huile d'olive, deux gousses d'ail coupés en petits dés, un

gros oignon coupé en petits dés, 1-2 livre de jambon coupé

en petits dés, un poulet gras, que vous dépecez.

Faites revenir le tout ensemble, dix minutes suffisent.

Une fois le tout revenu, mettez immédiatement une livre de

riz Caroline première qualité, donnez un tour de fourchette

sur le feu, mettez ensuite l ' infusion d'une pincée de safran,

puis six tomates coupées en dés. M ou illez à point avec du

bon bouillon, assaisonnez, sel, poivre, que vous avez aupa-

ravant en soin de bien faire frire dans un peu de saindoux.

Mettez immédiatement au four très-chaud, pour que le riz

gr atin e auto ur de la casserole. Ce tte casserole doit être

en faïence munie de son couvercle. U n e heure et quart

suffit pour la confection de ce mets, lorsqu'on en comprend

la cuisson . _ . _

A

_

J A M B A L A Y A

Prendre une volaille, bien l 'assaisonner avec sel, poivre

et piments, couper en petits morceaux et faire frire dans du

saindou x ( la rd ). Pre nd re du jam bon coupé et faire frire

dans la mêm e poêle. Lo rsq ue la volaille est frite, ajo ute r de

l'oign on coupé très-fin et les fair e bien roussir. P uis ajo ute r

des tom ates coupées et fa ire frir e. D u persil hâché.

Lorsque tout est bien frit, ajouter de l 'eau Y* tasse,

pour une tasse de riz) et laisser mettre sur un feu très-vif;

lorsque le riz commence à gonfler le mettre sur un petit feu

et ajo ut er une petite cuillerée de beurre. Si vous tournez

le riz dans la poêle, le tourner avec une fourchette.

D A U B E G L A C E E A L A C R E O L E D E M A D A M E

R O U Z A N , N E E O L I V I E R

Pr en ez un mo rceau bien épais de tranche de bœuf (b as

de la cuisse, m orceau rond avec un os au m ilieu). A p rè s



M A R C H A N D D E C A L L A S



- L A J J A O H I (1 H A H 3 H A M

é 1 * r * ^ = — . • X

m m m • m m, m

ebußrfo - ji/oí / - leo ' IÔH



T H E C A L L A S G I R L



toute l 'eau dans laquelle ils ont été cuits. C ou vr ez la casse-

role et mettez à cuire à petit feu; de temps en temps, à

mesure que le liquide baisse dans la casserole, remplacez

par du bouillon (ou du beef tea) ou faute de bouillon, par

de l 'eau chaude. L a cuisson dev ra continuer pendant plu-

sieurs heures (selon la grasseur de la viande) et jusqu'à

ce que la Viande soit pa rfaitem ent cuite. En lev ez la viande

de la casserole, enlevez et jetez tons les os des pieds, placez la

viande dans un moule ou un plat ou i l pourra prendre forme

en refroidissant.

Battez un œuf et le mettez dans le l iquide de la casse-

role, remuez bien le tout et passez dans une serviette et

me ttez à refr oid ir dans un plat creu x. L e liquide deviendra

de la gelée quand il sera refroidi et se servira à part.

D A U B E D E G A Z W A Y

Prendre une pièce de viande ronde; s' i l y a un os, i l

fau t l 'enlever. L a viand e doit être assaisonnée de sel et de

poivre de chaque côte; bien lardée de chaque côté et laissez

dépasser un morceau du lard lequel derra être tranché de

l 'épaisseur du petit doigt et de la longueur d'un bon doigt.

Assaisonnez le lard de sel et de poivre un moment avant de

s'en servir.

Mettez la viande dans un vase, ajoutez un morceau de

piment, un morceau d'ail , trois clous de girofles, deux

feuilles de laurier, très-peu de thym , pas d'oign on. L a

daube doit être laissée vingt-quatre heures dans son assai-

sonnement et doit être retournée deux ou trois fois pendant

ce temps-là.

Après les vingt-quatre heures, placez la daube dans une

chaudière, ajoutez trois pieds de veau coupés en morceaux

et deux carottes fendues en longueur et mettez la chau-

dière sur un feu mod éré. E lle devra être bien recouverte

pour empêcher l 'évaporation et pour cela il faut placer sur

le couvercle un poids comme deux fers à repasser.

La cuisson faite vous retirez les carottes et les placez



comme un petit carré au fond du vase qui doit contenir la

daube. L e vase doit laisser un peu d'espa ce auto ur de la

daube pour la gelée. Co ulez dans un ling e tout le jus,

versez-le dans le vase qui contient la daube et laissez re-

froidir jusqu'au lendemain. _ C

H

E F D E M R . V A L E R I E N A L L A I N .

D A U B E G L A C É E D E M A D A M E E U S T I S , M E R E

Prendre dans la tranche (ou round of beef) à peu près

cinq à six livres de l 'épaisseur de deux pouces un jour avant

de cuire, coupez des bandes de lard frais, en morceaux

d'un doigt de long et gros comme un doigt, assaisonnez le

lard avec le sel le poivre, une bonne pincée de salpêtre,

lardez la daube assez près à près, ensuite frottez la daube

de chaque côté avec le reste de l 'assaisonnem ent. A pr ès

avoir lardé le bœuf, il faut l'attacher avec une ficelle, ne pas

trop serrer pour qu'elle garde la forme ronde et plate et en

cuisant mettre un petit couvercle sur la casserole qui touche

la viand e et m ettre un poids dessus. F ai te s bou illir les pieds

de veau séparément et ajoutez cette eau gelatineuse à la

daube.—Il faut mettre la daube dans une terrine jusqu'au

lendemain.—De bonne heure mettre dans le fond d'une cas-

serole, la couane du lard, faire un bouquet de persil, thym,

un oignon entier , un petit morceau d'ai l—mettre autour et

dessous des pieds de veau coupés un deux, bien fendus par le

bo uch er— on met le jus que la viande a rendu dedans. O n

laisse cuire une dem i-heure sur un feu très-do ux. A p rè s

ou met assez d'eau pour que les pieds cuisent jusqu'à ce que

les os soient détachés. Il fau t que tout cuise à petit feu

doux pendant cinq à six heures jusqu'à ce qu'en touchant la

sauce, que les do igts sentent que c'est collant. Il fau t co uv rir

la casserole et quand c'est cuit mettre le bœuf dans une

terrine pou r qu'elle prenne une bonne form e. Re tirez les

pieds et dégraissez un peu la sauce et passez-la bien chaude

dans un morceau de flanelle, mettez aussi deux coquilles

d'œ ufs pou r éclaircir la gelée quand elle cuit. A pr ès qu'elle

est passée on la vide des

a

u fond de la terrine, sans



lever la daube en ayant eu soin de mettre quatre demi

tranches de carottes dans le fond de la terrine, afin que la

gelée se forme sur le bas qui va être le haut de la daube.

On la met dans un endroit froid et quand on la sert, on la

retourne sur un plat rond. Il fau t essayer souvent avan t

de réussir.

G R I L L A D E S D E V E A U D E M A D A M E J O S E P H I N E

N I C A U D

Demandez la petite tranche de veau, c 'est plus tendre.

Coupez une livre et demie de veau en petits carrés de trois

centimètres, un centimètres d'épaisseur, mettez une grande

cuillerée de lard dans la poêle, faites chauffer très-chaud,

faites frire votre veau jusqu'à ce qu'i l soit bien roussi,

ajoutez des oignons coupés très-fins, laissez colorer, ajoutez

un quart de canne de tomates; sel, poivre, persil , laissez

cuire, ajoutez un peu de farine, laissez roussir, mettez un

peu de beurre, un peu d'eau, laissez cuire au petit feu à

peu près une demi-heure, couvrez à demi pour laisser

échapper la vape ur. O n peut aussi ajo ute r des piments

verts avec l 'eau, car le piment ne permet pas la friture.

On peut aussi cuire du riz de veau dans cette même

sauce en retirant quelques morceaux de veau pour faire

place et en les bassinant avec cette sauce qui les rend dorés.

Le s perdrix cuites de cet te m anière— c 'est dé l ic ieu x .—

Faites revenir dans un roux quelques perdrix , ajoutez deux

ou trois cuillerées de tomates, laissez tout mijoter une heure

au petit feu. As sais on ne z au go û t avec, sel, poivre, persil.

F O I E D E V E A U A L A C E L E S T E

A U T R E M E N T DI T U N P L A T C A N A I L L E

Coupez quelques tranches de foie de veau très-tendre à

peu près trois centimètres carrés, faites un rou x, ajo ut ez

si vous voulez très-peu d'oignon hâché fin, faites revenir ou

frire vos tranches de foie de veau, ajoutez un peu de jus

de vian de ou bouillon, un p le persil, laissez m ijot er une



demi-heure, faites bouill ir du macaroni Italien, mettez dans

un gra nd plat, avec des m orce au x de citron. C'e st un plat

canaille, comme disait la vieil le Celeste, mais délicieux.

P E R D R I X A U X C H O U X

Faire blanchir les choux, presser pour faire sortir l 'eau

ficelez et faites revenir dans le même beurre que les per-

dreaux, faites un roux, ajoutez quelques morceaux de ca-

rotte, faire cuire pendant trois heures.

Faire revenir les perdreaux, ajouter les choux blanchis,

carottes, oignons, persil, vin blanc, bouillon et un peu de

rhum, faire cuire trois heures.

Faire revenir quelques morceaux de lard, ensuite les

perdreaux, ajouter choux blanchis, bouillon, saucisson, jam-

bon, chipolata, faire cuire trois heures.

B L A N Q U E T T E D E V E A U

Coupez des morceaux de veau en carrés faites les revenir

d'une belle couleur dorée ajoutez de l 'eau froide, juste au

niveau de la viande, mettez sel, poivre, un oignon, une ca-

rotte, persil, feuille de laurier, faites cuire deux heures à petit

feu. D an s une autre casserole, m ettez un mo rceau de

beurre bien frais, deux cuillerées de farine, tournez toujours

et faites bien cuire sans prendre couleur, mouillez avec le

jus de la viande, laissez mijoter, dans une tasse délayez un

jaune d'œuf avec jus de citron ou fi let de vinaigre et une

cuillerée de crème, ajoutez à la sauce, tournez un instant,

mais ne pas laisser bouill ir et versez sur la viande que l 'on

a gard ée au chaud avec un peu de jus. O n peut y ajoute r

quelques champignons si l 'on veut.


F A R C E P O U R P A T E S O U P O U R D E S D I N D E S O U

P O U R D E S V O L A I L L E S

Hâchez très-fin une demi-livre de jeune veau bien assai-

sonné, faites revenir avec un peu de graisse et farine, ajoutez

un peu d'eau des huîtres, frir e les huîtres là-dedans.



Même farce pour les volailles et les dindes en ajoutant

un peu de pain séché au four mettez-y du piment rouge.

On peut aussi cuire des pigeons dans cette même sauce

et du riz de veau.

C E R V E L L E S D E V E A U O U M O U T O N A U

B E U R R E N O I R

Prenez un litre d'eau, un oignon, persil , feuille de laurier,

sel et poivre, faites bouill ir quinze minutes, ajoutez deux

cervelles de veau très-fraiches, laissez bouill ir vingt minutes,

retirez et égouttez, mettez dans un plat, salez et poivrez,

ajoutez un fi let de vinaigre ou du jus de citron, versez

dessus du beurre noir (sans être brûlé) saupoudrez de

persil frais haché très-fin ou si vous préférez quelques

branches de persil frit , servez très-chaud.

R O G N O N S D E M O U T O N S A U T E S

Prenez gros comme une noisette de beurre et deux cui l-

lerées de farine, faites un roux mouillez avec du bouillon,

ajoutez, un petit oignon, persil , feuille de laurier, sel et

poivre, fai tes mijoter une demi-heure, ajoutez quelques

cuillerées de madère ou sherry, dix minutes après mettez

quatre rognons de mouton (très-frais) coupés en tranches

minces, laissez mijoter cinq ou six minutes, servez garni

de croûtons.

Si cela vous plait, vous pouvez y ajouter quelques cham-

pignons coupés et quelques petits morceaux de lard frit .

Prendre de la viande de cochon préparée pour saucisse,

m êlez à des pied s d e cochon bien bou illis, enveloppé z dans

une toillette c'est la dentelle de graisse qui provient du mou-

ton; faire fr ire. Dé lic ieux pour le déjeune r.

B E C A S S I N E S D E L A N O U V E L L E O R L E A N S

Faites une gelée madère et pieds de veau, prenez du

veau, un petit morceau de porc salé et de foie de veau;

I O O



hâchez le tou t très-fin, avec assaisonn em ent, laissez m ijote r

à un feu doux, pulverisez, mêlez le tout faites une bonne pâte,

hâchez truffes et champignons, ajoutez l 'eau des deux.

M ettez vo s b écassines coupées en de ux, remplissez les ave c

le hach is m ettez au fe u dix minutes, arrose z avec la gelée.

C R A B E S F A R C I S

Seulement échauder vos crabes avec de l 'eau bouillante,

nettoyez bien, ôtez seulement la chair qui est ferme et le

jaune, jetez-le humectez avec de la crème, goûtez si c 'est

amer, ajoutez une petite cuillerée de beurre, mie de pain,

sel, poivre, remettez dans les coquilles, saupoudrez de chape-

lure, mettez au four.

C O T E S D E H O M A R D

Prenez six pommes de terre cuites pour un homard.

Faites revenir le homard à l 'huile, a joutez-y un verre de

cognac allumez-le, tout en le laissant sur le feu et le tour-

nant, quand la flamme est eteinte, le cognac fini, on ajoute

du vin blanc, poivre, sel, cayenne et versez par-dessus une

sauce tomate bien assaisonnée.

B R A N D A D E D E M O R U E

Dessalez la morue pendant vingt-quatre heures au

moins, blanchissez-la au feu, ôtez la peau, les arrêtes, pilez-

la bien au mortier, ayez de l 'huile, de l 'ail, du persil, un peu

de vinaigre bouillant, mêlez votre morue en tournant tou-

jours du même côté et en y ajoutant toujours de l 'huile

et de la crème (ou du lait) à mesure que cela devient épais,

tournez bien jusqu'à ce qu'ellç soit blanche, servez dans

un plat ou dans une croûte de vol au vent.

J'ai compris que c 'est sur un feu doux qu'on tourne

tou jou rs, c 'est comm e la m ayon naise à peu près. Ce la se

garde et se mange froid pendant un ou deux jours—c'est

très-riche.



P O U R F O N D D E C U I S I N E

S A U C E A U V E A U

Pour qu'une cuisine soit bonne, i l faut toujours qu'elle

ait une base ou fond de cuisine.—Ayez une bonne gelée, fai te

avec une tranche de jeune veau, un pied de veau, faites

revenir dans la poêle, comme pour faire du bœuf à la

mode—ajoutez-y un pet i t morceau d'oignon, deux carottes

tranchées en deux, une feuille de laurier, persil, sel et poivre,

ajoutez deux tasses d'eau, laissez mijoter trois ou

quatre heures, passez dans une passoire, laissez refroidir,

enlevez la graisse et servez-vous de cela pour bassiner

vos rôt is , beefsteak, côtelettes—coupez en pet i ts morceaux

et servez avec viandes froides et salade.—La même sauce

peut se faire avec des rogatons, pour un ménage économique.

S A U C E T O M A T E

Prenez une canne de tomates ou dix ou douze tomates

bien fraîches, un petit oignon, sel , poivre persil—mettez

dans une casserole un petit morceau de beurre—laissez mi-

joter deu x ou trois heu res— m ettez dans un bol. V ou s

pourrez vous servir de cette sauce pour la soupe, pour

épaissir des ragoûts, avec des œufs pochés, ce qui fait des

œufs Portugais ou avec du r iz ainsi qu'avec du macaroni ,

tout de suite vous avez un plat délicieux—très-uti le et

écon.omique pour les petits ménages.

S A U C E T A R T A R E

Dans un bol mettez deux jaunes d'œuf une cuil lerée

à thé de moutarde, tournez et ajoutez de l 'huile d'olive goutte

à goutte et tournant toujours et du même côté

;

sans quitter

la sauce, quand celle-ci est bien prise ajoutez sel et poivre,

et un filet de vinaigre, juste au moment de la finir mettez

du persil, cerfeuil, ciboulette, un soupçon d'échalotte ou

oignon, le tout hâché très-fin, mélangé délicatement à la

sauce, pour ne pas la faire tourner.

102



Servez avec du poisson frit ou cuit au court-bouillon

ou avec de la viande froide.

S A U C E H U B E R T

Après cuisson d'échalottes dans du vinaigre passez-les

dans un tamis, dans le même tamis passez, foie de poulet

qui aura cuit sur le gril, délayez peu à peu avec un peu

d'échalotte passée; au moment de servir terminez le mé-

lange, ajoutez le jus du rôti.

S A U C E B O R D E L A I S E

Versez dans une casserole, 1-2 bouteille de vin de Bor-

deau x, ajo ut ez sel, piment, persil, échalotte hâchée. Fa ites

réduire le liquide de moitié ajoutez-y un peu de sauce brune

et sauce tomate, passez le tout à l 'étamine ou à passoire,

coupez en dés 1-4 de livre de Moëlle de bœuf et servez bien

chaud.

S A U C E B L A N C H E

Prenez trois jaunes d'œuf, mettez-les dans une petite

casserole, ajoutez de la crème, une cuillerée de beurre,

faites cuire au bain-Marie, tournez la sauce tout le temps

pour qu'elle prenne bien. Il fau t faire la sauce une demi-

heure avant d'en avoir besoin et au moment de la servir y

ajouter un jus de citron ou quelques gouttes de vinaigre.

Pour des œufs à la Morelle vous faites bouil l ir vingt

minutes des œufs très-durs que vous coupez et ajoutez à

cette sauce avec un peu de jus d'oignon en ajoutant un peu

de poivre rouge.

Cette même sauce peut servir pour des huîtres, ce qui

fait des huîtres à la poulette.

S A U C E B E A R N A I S E

Hâchez six échalottes, mettez-les dans une casserole avec

le quart d'un verre de vinaigre, faites réduire et passez à

la passoire. D an s une autre casserole m ettez trois jaun es

103



d'oeuf, 150 grammes de beurre et faites au bain-Marie,

après vous y additionnez de l 'essence d'échalotte, un peu de

gelée de viande et un jus de citron, cela ne doit pas bouillir.

H A R I C O T S V E R T S

Mettez un petit oignon et un bouquet de persil , feuille

de laurier, un rien de thym, attachez avec un fil, laissez

bouillir quinze minutes—les haricots verts une demi heure

à peu près à gros bouillons, comme les épinards, bien

égoutter tout de suite afin qu'i ls ne se refroidissent pas—

pour les sécher plus vite, les sécher dans une cuvette bien

propre ou un morceau de "cheesecloth" qui a été bien

lavé auparavent, pas dans son neuf.

H A R I C O T S V E R T S , M A I T R E - D ' H O T E L

Après avoir lavé et épluché les haricots jetez-les dans

l 'eau bouillante, ajoutez-y une bonne poignée de sel, les faire

cuire vivement, vingt à vingt-cinq minutes suffisent, au mo-

ment de les servir il faut bien les égoutter dans une pressoire,

les m ettre dans un légum ier avec un peu de sel et du beurre

à volonté; remuez très-légèrement, la chaleur des haricots

doit faire fondre le beurre, saupoudrez d'un peu de persil

haché et servez, il faut surtout ne pas les laisser tremper

dans l 'eau avant de les faire cuire et ne pas les préparer à

l 'avance dans le légumier et les égoutter vivement pour qu'i ls

ne refroidissent pas.

Pour la cuisson environ quatre l itres d'eau pour 500

grammes d'haricots.

P A T A T E S D O U C E S A U F O U R

Faites bouillir six patates pas trop grosses, on les

épluche et les écrase, ajoutez un peu d'eau, sel, poivre, sucre

à volonté, une cuillerée de beurre, délayez bien jusqu'à ce que

cela soit d'une consistance de pâte.—Mettez dans un plat au

fou r, pique z ave c une paille pou r vo ir si c'est cuit. M êm e

104



recette pour pudding patate, en ajoutant deux œufs, une

demi-tasse de lait et un peu de muscade.

Faites cuire au four des patates douces, tranchées et

rissolées dans du beurre et du sucre

;

c 'est delicieux avec du

rosbeef.

O S E I L L E

L'o seille doit être bien épluchée et lavée. M ettez-la

cuire à l 'eau bouillante à grande eau et salée, cinq minutes

de cuisson, retirez-la avec précaution et mettez-la dans une

bassine d'eau froide si l 'oseille est très-acide, faites cette

opération deux fois, retirez-la aussitôt et égouttez-la bien.

Dans une casserole, mettez un bon morceau de beurre,

l'oseille et du sel, mettez sur le feu et remuez toujours afin

que en fondant le beurre se lie bien à l 'oseille, ajoutez un

peu de lait, encore un morceau de beurre et l iez toujours,

servez garni de croûtons frits.

P O M M E S D E T E R R E S O U F F L E E S

Coupez en lames de belles pommes de terre pas trop

épaisses, mettez-les à la friture pas trop chaude, faites-les

frire tout doucement, aussitôt que vos pommes montent sur

la friture, retirez-les, faites chauffer de nouveau votre fri-

ture bien chaude, plonges-les dedans jusqu'à ce qu'elles

soient bien gonflées et sèches, retirez-les et servez.

L E C H E F — A . C H R I S T I .

G R A T I N A U X P O M M E S D E T E R R E

Coupez les pommes de terre crues de la forme et de

l 'épaisseur d'une piece de cinq francs . Be ur rez un plat de

faïence qui va au four; placez une couche de pommes de

terre saupoudrées de poivre, sel, d'un peu de fromage de

G ruy ère râ pé ; ajo ute z un peu de beurre. Superpo sez les

couches de pommes de terre ainsi saupoudrées jusqu'à ce

que le plat soit plein. R eco uv rez le tout d'une autre couche

de fromage de Gruyère, poivre, sel, un peu de beurre.

^

M e t-

tez dans un four bien chaud; arrosez deux ou trois fois

105



d'un peu de bouil lon ou de lait . Se rve z ch au d.— D an s les

campagnes françaises on ne fait ce plat que les jours de

grande lessive afin que le four soit très chaud ; car si ce n'est

pas saisi, au lieu d'être excellent, ce m ets est insipide. Il ne

faut pas non plus employer d'autre fromage que celui de

Gruyère, fraîchement rapé. U N E S A V O I S I E N N E .

L A S A C C A M I T E

La saccamité se mange avec des canards sauvages.

Laissez tremper une tasse de saccamité dans deux l itres

d'eau froide toute la nuit, le lendemain laissez-le bouillir

qu atre heu res sur un petit feu da ns de ux litres d'eau . . „

i l doit absorber toute l 'eau—mettez-le dans un plat à re-

froidir, coupez en tranches et faites frire dans du saindoux

et servez chaud avec canards sauvages.

Les enfants l 'aiment bien simplement bouill i en ajou-

tant du sucre et un peu de lait ou crème.

Les restes de hominy peuvent s 'uti l iser de la même

manière.

S A L A D E A L A D U C D E M O R N Y

Coupez en très-petites tranches des pommes de terre qui

ont été bouillirs et salées ne les laissez pas trop refroidir,

assaisonnez-les avec poivre, sel , huile et vinaigre—coupez

quelques truffes en tranches même grandeur que les pommes

de terre, mêlez-les ensemble et versez par-dessus une jolie

sauce mayonnaise.

B A N A N E S

Epluchez et tranchez des bananes, roulez-les dans du

sucre et faites frire dans du beurre frais.

Ou cuites entières dans du sirop de bâtrie, comme une

confiture ou bien dans leur peau au four.

C E R V E L L E S D E M O U T O N P A N E E S

Faites bouillir quinze minutes dans un litre d'eau, un

oignon, persil, feuille de laurier, sel et poivre; mettez trois



cervelles de mouton, très-fraiches et bien dégorgées, laissez

bouillir dix minutes, retirez et laissez égoutter dans un linge.

Après qu'elles sont refroidies, coupez-les en petits morceaux

carrés, embrochez-les avec petites brochettes en argent, rou-

lez-les dans trois blancs d'œuf battus en neige, puis dans de

la chapelure blanche, faites frire à grande et bonne friture

très-chaude, servez avec les brochettes, dressez et garnissez

avec persil frit ou frais et tranches de citron, ne faire frire

que juste au moment de servir, ce mets ne pouvant attendre,

quelques minutes suffisent, faire vite et servir très-chaud et

bien égoutté.



C A L A S

Be l C ala s tout ch au ds est le cri de la négresse qui les

vend dans la rue dans des bols en bois qu'elle porte sur la

tête enveloppés d'un e serviette bien propre. L es calas se

mangent avec du café au marché le matin; c 'est délicieux

Une tasse de riz bien bouilli à l 'eau laissez refroidir,

ajoutez une grande cuil lerée de yeast et une demi-tasse

d'eau on bat le tout ensemble le soir lendem ain matin,

ajoutez un œuf, un peu de sel, une petite cuillerée de

sucre, une grande cuillerée de farine ordinaire, la farine de

riz est préférable, mais difficile à se procurer, battez le tout

bien ensemble puis laissez tomber dans beaucoup de sain-

doux très-chaud, une cuillerée de ce mélange, retournez-les

jusq u'à ce qu'i ls soient bien brunes . . . et posez-les sur une

serviette bien chaude, posée sur une assiette près du feu.

Cela se mange avec le café au lait .

C O R N B R E A D

Une tasse de corn meal, deux cuillerées de farine, une

cuillerée à café de sucre, un peu de sel, un œuf, une cuil-

lerée de beurre, une demi cuillerée à café de baking powder

bien battre le tout et faire cuire dans des moules beurrés.

M U F F I N S

Une tasse de riz, et une cuillerée de beurre, i tasse de

farine, i cuillerée à soupe de sucre, i demi cuillerée à café

de sel, i œuf, i cuillerée à café de baking powder délaye

au lait doux, battre, faire pâte lisse, cuire dans des moules

beurrés.

P A I N B L A N C

D e u x quarts 1-2 ou 3 quarts de farine. M ettre dans la

farine, à sec une grande cuillerée de sel, et une de sucre.

Puis faire tremper et dissoudre dans une tasse d'eau, un

petit paquet de yeast, puis le mêler à la farine. Fo nd re

108



M A R C H A N D D E M O U T A R D E



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T H E O L D F R E N C H C H E F S E L L I N G M U S T A R D IN N E W O R L E A N S



dans un fer blanc, une cuillerée de beurre et une de saindoux

(la rd ). A jo u te r à ce mé lange fondu, 2 tassées de lait et

une d'eau, jeter ce liquide en 2 ou 3 fois dans la farine, et

bien tourner avec une cuillerée ou un couteau, jusqu'à ce

que le fon d du plat soit net ainsi que la cuillère. La iss er

lever toute la nuit dans un endroit tempéré et le lendemain

matin retourner la pâte 2 ou 3 fois, et la diviser en pains.

P A I N N O I R

Pour le pain noir faire de la même manière, excepté,

avoir 2 quarts de farine au lieu de trois et ajouter une demi

tasse de sirop.

M A R Y L A N D B I S C U I T S

P ou r le thé de cinq heures. M ette z dans un bol une

tasse de farine, ajoutez-y deux cuillerées à thé de baking

powder, un quart de cuillerée à thé de sel, travaillez le tout

avec un couteau ajo ute z une demi-pinte de crème. Tr av ail-

lez le tout jusqu'à ce que cela forme une bonne pâte; sur

une planche, roulez-le à l 'épaisseur d'un pouce. M ettez au

four assez chau d 10 minutes. Co upez-les en de ux et trem-

pez-les dans du beurre fondu ; remettez-les ensemble au four

pendant 3 minu tes. L é g er s et délicieux.

G A T E A U S E C D E L E O N I E P E N I N

Prenez 1 tasse de sucre, 1 tasse de lait, 1 tasse de farine,

mettez 3 œufs tout ensemble blanc et jaune dans un bol;

mélangez le tout ensemble, bien travaillé, faites cuire dans

des assiettes en fer blanc beurrées et saupoudrez d'un peu de

farine.

Faites plus épais pour un gâteau chocolat, que vous tran-

chez et y mettez une confiture d'abricots.—3 tablettes de cho-

colat Menier ou un quart, une tasse de lait, faites bouillir le

lait, mettez le chocolat dedans, faites dissoudre le chocolat en

le tournant, la issez cuire un quart d 'heure.—Laissez refroidir

et appliquez sur le gâteau.



U N P U D D I N G D E M A I S

Prenez 5 épis maïs que vous faites bouillir, râpez mettez-

les dans un bol, ajoutez une cuillerée de sucre, une pincée de

sel, une grande cuillerée de crème, 4 jaunes d'œuf, battez 4

blancs d'œuf en neige, mélangez le tout bien ensemble et

versez dans un plat beurré, mettez au four une demi-heure

assez chaud comme pour faire du soufflet.

R E C E T T E D E L A G E N O I S E

Mettez deux œufs dans une balance, pesez de l 'autre côté

autant de sucre en poudre que ce poids, autant de beurre,

mêm e quantité de farine. Fa ites fond re un peu de beurre

cassez les œufs, sans battre, ni blanc, ni jaune mélangez bien

le tout ensemble, ajoutez-y une petite pincée de sel, beurrez

un peu un plat en fer blanc et faite s cuire. O n peut ajo ut er

quelqu es am andes pilées, si on les aime. O n peut aussi

rouler cette pâte et en faire des petits gâteaux secs pour le

thé, c'est très-bon, ou les découpe avec un verre ou autre

moule.

F R O M A G E A L A C R E M E

Dans un endroit frais, sans être à la glacière, laissez

tourner un litre ou deux de bon lait ; quand il est très-ferme,

mettez égoutter dans un linge en le tenant suspendu pen-

dant une nuit; le lendemain détachez et mettez dans une

terrine avec un grain de sel et une pincée de sucre,

bien battre jusqu'à que ce soit une pâte légère et

lisse, mettez dans des petits moules troués ou petits pan-

iers, ga rn is d'un ling e pro pre et sec. M ettez-les pendant

deux heures sur la glace, renverez-les dans un compotier et

ver sez dessus de la crèm e douce, serve z. O n peut se servir

plusieurs fois des mêmes linges en ayant soin de les laver

aussitôt, mais ne jamais user de savon, faites bouillir avec

"washing soda," rincez et laissez tromper longtemps à

l'eau fraîche et faites-les bien sécher au grand air.

—

L

e o n i e

P

e n i n

1 I O



C R E M E A L A G L A C E A L A C E L E S T I N E

Prenez 6 jaunes d 'œuf, i blanc, une demi l ivre de cho-

colat extra fin, 2 tasses de sucre, un quart de l itre de crème

bien fraîch e, un m orceau de vanil le . Ba ttez les jau ne s

d'œuf dans un bol , a joutez les blancs, puis le sucre (battez

fe rm e) , e t a jo ut ez la crème. Fa i tes d issoudre le chocolat

dans du la it chaud, puis la issez-le épaissir dans un Bain-

Marie , en ajoutant de la vanil le , versez le dans un bol , puis

passez dans un tamis, fa ites glacer , puis mettez dans un

moule sur la glace.

R I Z A L ' A N G L A I S E

1-2 k i logramme de r iz cu i t dans , 2 l i t res de la i t—pour la

crème anglaise; 1-2 ki logramme de sucre, 3-4 l i tre de la it ,

7 œufs ent iers ; 45 gr am m es de gelatine, 3-4 l itre de crèm e

fouettée. Q uelq ues fru its coupés.

G A T E A U D E M O U S S E L I N E

Sept œufs, une demi-l ivre de sucre un quart de fécule

de pom m e de terre. Ba tte z le jau ne avec le sucre, a jo u tez

la fécu le, et aprè s le blanc bien ba ttu . P as se z le sucre et

la fécule au soleil.

P O M M E S C U I T E S A L A T H O M A S J E F F E R S O N

Prenez 6 ou 8 bel les pommes, épluchez-les en ayant soin

d'enlever le cœur, que vous remplissez de sucre brut,

mettez-les dans un fer blanc, saupoudrez-les du même

sucre, posez par dessus quelques tranches de c itron et un

morceau de canel le , arrosez avec quelques cuil lerées d 'eau

et mettez-les au four; les pommes seront dorées et auront

un e belle gelée . C ela se m an ge av ec de la crèm e.

— E D G E H I L L ,

Virginia.

F L A N A U X C E R I S E S

Garnissez le moule à flan avec de la pâte brisée, abaissée

à un dem i-centimètre . Sau po ud rez d 'une bonne couche de



sucre en poud re. R etir ez les no ya u x de vos cerises, et

ra ng ez celles-ci sur le flan. M ette z au four une demi-heure,

laissez refroidir, et si vous possédez de la confiture de

cerises, mettez en une couche légère sur les cerises.

— M . M E L V Y .

G A T E A U P R A L I N E O U I L E F L O T T A N T E

Pu lvér isez un quart de l ivre de pral ines grises. Battez

en neige 4 blancs d'œufs, ajoutez les pralines en poudre,

sucre à volonté faites ce mélange vivement et sans battre

de nouveau, mettez dans un moule, que vous avez enduit

de caramel, mettez au bain-marie et au four pas trop chaud,

laissez 20 minutes, faites refroidir et démoulez au moment

de servir, garnissez avec une crème à la vanille.


P E T I T A V I S A U X M E N A G E R E S

Les pieds de veau que Ton retire d'une daube peuvent

se réch au ffer. O n peut aussi faire cuire des riz de veau

avec un petit morceau de veau, un oignon, et persil chily

sauce. U n m om ent av an t de les retirer du feu, ajo ute r

dans la sauce cette sauce tomate que Ton vend en bouteille.

Il faut passer les riz de veau quelques minutes dans l 'eau

chaude, pas bouillante, les laisser égoutter, faire cuire le

veau un peu avant de le mettre avec et que la sauce soit un

peu brune.

Lavez vite à grande eau vos légumes verts ne les laissez

jamais tremper dans l 'eau.

Z ' A F F A I R E C A B R I C ' E S T P A S T A F F A I R E

M O U T O N

Ti mouton la queu coupé train train du ballet

Sapoti

bombi

sapoti bombi coffer to té pas hélé

Comment vos tu que je hèle

Petit moso papier pous suyer nez tétés—

Coté tapé courri? yapé gol loper

I

T

2



La cuisine est comme la jardinage i l y a toujours quelque

chose à apprendre.

P O U R F A I R E D U B O N C A F E

Faire du bon café Le conseil a l 'air débonnaire ; mais,

dans la pratique, les difficultés abon dent. V o ic i ce que

conseil le, à ce sujet, aux ménagères méticuleuses et prévoy-

antes le "Revue universel le ."

Prendre un filtre en fer-blanc tout simplement ; les filtres

en fer-blanc sont les m eilleurs. C et ou tillag e m odeste étant

organisé comme i l convient, placez votre café moulu sur le

filtre, 10 grammes par tasse suffisent; quand l 'eau est à

moitié chaude, arrosez pour le préparer à recevoir les in-

fusions et faciliter le filtrage. Q ua nd l 'eau bout, jetez-la

en quatre fois sur le café: la première infusion entraîne la

force dudit café, la deuxième une partie du café, la troi-

sième et quatrième le dépouillent de tout ce qui aurait pu

résister au x autres infusion s. So us aucun pré texte ne

mettre le café sur le feu, i l n'y a pas de moyen plus sûr

pour en détr uire toute s ses qua lités. T e n ez l 'appa reil ser-

vant au ca fé avec la plus gra nd e propreté. So uve nt, le m au-

vais goût qu'on trouve provient d 'un tnanque de lavage à

l 'eau froide . I l fau t trois ou quatre m élang es pour faire du

bon café, et bien grillé clair

:

moka, bourbon, martinique.

T H E E N D



T H E C O O K B O O K O F T H E C E N T U R Y

H A R P E R ' S C O O K B O O K E N C Y C L O P A E D I A .

Edited by the Editor o f Harper's Bazar. Con-

tributions and Recipes by al l the famous l iv ing

authorit ies. Bo un d in W ash able Pigskin-Colored

Special ly Prep ared Le ath er Cloth. I l lustrate d.

$1.50 net (postage extra).

This i s

th e

c oo k b o ok of t h e 2 0th c e n t u r y . T h e r e is n o

ot h e r c ook b ook wh i c h i s

made like a dictionary

, w i t h

c om p l e t e c r os s r e f e r e n c e s a n d a l p h a b e t i c a l f i n g e r g u i d e s ,

s o t h a t y o u c a n t u r n i n s t a n t l y t o w h a t y o u w a n t . I t c on -

t a i n s a c om p r e h e n s i v e n u m b e r o f a p p r ov e d r e c i p e s , wh i c h

r e p r e s e n t t h e m os t f a m ou s c ook i n g a u t h or i t i e s o f t h e wor l d .

T h e b oo k i s i n d i s p e n s a b l e t o e v e r y h ou s e h ol d , e x p e r i e n c e d

or otherwise .

T h e K i n g o f C o o k B o o k s . —

S t . Louis Globe-Democrat.

A b ou t t h e l a s t wor d i n c ook i n g , i t i s s o c om p l e t e . —

Public Opinion, N e w Y o r k .

• N e v e r b e f or e h a s t h e r e b e e n s u c h a c oo k b o ok a s i s t h i s

o n e . — Louisville Courier-Journal.

The c ook b ook o f t h e c e n t u r y ; i t i s a n e a s y m a t t e r t o

t u r n i n s t a n t l y t o w h a t e v e r o n e m a y r e q u i r e i n w a y o f a

r e c e i p t . — Boston Gazette.

M or e m e t h od s o f a s s e m b l i n g f ood a n d i n g r e d i e n t s t h a n

we r e e v e r b e f or e g a t h e r e d b e t we e n t h e c ov e r s o f a s i n g l e

v o l u m e . — B alt im or e Morning Herald.

I t i s a won d e r t h a t n ob od y e v e r b e f or e t h ou g h t o f t h e

h a p p y d e v i c e o f p r e p a r i n g a c ook e r y b ook on t h e p r i n c i p l e

w h i c h u n d e r l i e s t h e C oo k B oo k E n c y c l o p a e d i a . — L i t e rary

World.

A d i s t i n c t b oo n t o t h e h ou s e k e e p e r w h o is i n a h u r r y . I t s

a r r a n g e m e n t o f r e c i p e s r e s e m b l e s t h a t o f a d i c t i on a r y , a n d

on e m a y f i n d on t h e i n s t a n t t h e p a r t i c u l a r r e c i p e wh i c h

s h e i s i n s e a r c h o f , wi t h ou t t u r n i n g p a g e a f t e r p a g e or

r e f e r r i n g a g a i n a n d a g a i n t o t h e i n d e x . —

N e w York Tribune.

H A R P E R & B R O T H E R S , P U B L I S H E R S

N E W Y O R K A N D L O N D O N



B Y M R S . M . E . W . S H E R W O O D

M A N N E R S A N D S O C I A L U S A G E S in A m e r -

i c a . A B o o k o f E t i q u e t t e . N e w E d i t i o n ,

a t t r a c t i v e l y b o u n d a n d I l l u s t ra t e d . C l o t h ,

$1 . 25.

T h i s i s t h e s t a n d a r d b o o k o f e t i q u e t t e f o r

A m e r i c a . M r s. S h e r w o o d k n o w s w h a t o u r m a n -

n e r s o u g h t t o b e , a n d w h a t o u r c o r r e c t s o c i a l

u s a g e s a r e , b e t t e r t h a n a n y o t h e r w r i t e r u p o n

t h e s e s u b j e c t s . B e s i d e s t h e a d v a n t a g e s o f a

v a s t s o c i a l e x p e r i e n c e , b o t h i n E u r o p e a n d

A m e r i c a , s h e h a s a l s o t h e g i f t o f w r i t i n g c l e a r l y

a n d t o t h e p o i n t . T h e r e i s n o d i f f i c u l t y i n

u n d e r s t a n d i n g h e r . I n t h i s a d m i r a b l e b o o k s h e

h a s t o u c h e d u p o n a l l t h o s e p o i n t s , n o m a t t e r

h o w t r i f l i n g , w h i c h p u z z l e t h e y o u n g o r t h e

i n e x p e r i e n c e d . A n d s h e h a s s o e n l i v e n e d h e r

e x p l a n a t i o n s a n d i n s t r u c t i o n s w i t h t h e w i t a n d

w i s d o m o f a c u l t u r e d a n d g e n t l y b r e d w o m a n

o f t h e w o r l d , t h a t i t i s i n t e r e s t i n g r e a d i n g f r o m

first to last.



tS p

3

* The above work will be sent by ma il, postage

prepaid, to any part of the United States, Cana da,

or M exico, on receipt o f the price.



B Y A N N E F R A N C E S S P R I N G S T E E D

T H E E X P E R T W A I T R E S S : A M a n u al fo r

P a n t r y , K i t c h e n , a n d D i n i n g - r o o m . 1 3 1 p a g e s ,

$ 1 . 0 0 .

T h i s l i t t l e v o l um e g i v es adm i r ab l y c l ear an d

prec ise direct ions as to the whole duty of a

wai t r ess a t b r eak f ast , l un c h eo n , a f t er n o o n t ea ,

d i n n er , an d sup p er , t o g et h er wi t h i n st r uc t i o n s

i n r eg ar d t o t h e h o useh o l d wo r k p er t a i n i n g t o

t h e d i n i n g - r o o m an d p an t r y .

T h e aut h o r i n h er p r e f ac e says , " T h ese p ap er s

ar e i n t en ded r at h er as a wo r k i n g m o del t h an as

a set o f rules f r om w h ich the re i s no ap pe al . I t

i s r ec o g n i z ed t h at t as t es an d o p i n i o n s v ar y as

m uc h as do t h e v ar i o u s d i n i n g - r o o m s i n w h i c h

t h e y ar e ex p r essed . In w r i t i n g t h ese p ap er s ,

o n e i dea h as b een k ep t i n m i n d: No r u l e h as

b ee n la i d do wn t h at h as n o t a g o o d r easo n f o r

i t s ex i s t en c e . S o m e t h i n g s , des i r ab l e i n t h em -

se l v es , h av e b een o m i t t ed b ec ause t h ey ar e n o t

p o ss i b l e t o o n e p a i r o f h an ds an d f eet , ev en wh en

g u i d e d b y a w e l l - r e g u l a t e d b r a i n . "



above w ork w ill be sent by m ail, postage

prepaid, to any part of the United States, Cana da,

or M exico, on receipt of the price.



B Y M A R I A N N A W H E E L E R

T H E B A B Y : H I S C A R E A N D T R A I N I N G . Il-

lustra ted . 189 pag es, $1.00

net

(postage extra) .

Miss Wheeler has been for ten years the head nurse and

general director of the Babies' Hospital of New York.

T h e t e a c h i n g s o f t h e a u t h o r o f t h i s v o l u m e a b o u n d i n

g e n u i n e g o o d s e n s e a n d a r e c o m m e n d e d t o a l l m o t h e r s . —

Chicago Inter-Ocean.

W h a t t h e a u t h o r o f t h i s b o o k d o e s n o t k n o w a b o u t t h e

c a r e o f t h e b a b y c a n n o t b e w o r t h k n o w i n g . — L i t e r a r y

World.

A p r a c t i c a l l i t t l e v o l u m e , w e l l w r i t t e n a n d o f w i s e c o u n s e l .

A l l t h e w i s d o m o f t h e t r a i n e d n u r s e s e e m s t o b e c o m p r e s s e d

i n t o i t s p a g e s . — K a n sa s City Star.

I t c o v e r s e v e r y s u b j e c t b e a r i n g u p o n t h e b a b y ' s f i r s t f e w

y e a r s o f l i f e a n d w i l l t e a d e c i d e d h e l p t o m o t h e r s . — C h i c a g o

Daily News.

T h e a u t h o r b e g i n s w i t h t h e f i r s t m i n u t e s o f t h e b a b y ' s

l i f e , a n d w i t h a c a r e f u l a t t e n t i o n t o d e t a i l f o r w h i c h m a n ya y o u n g m o t h e r w i l l b e g r a t e f u l . —

Phrenological Journal .

M i s s W h e e l e r ' s b o o k i s e m i n e n t l y se n s ib l e . I t c o n t a i n s a

h o s t o f t i m e l y h i n t s a n d ru l e s . I t w i l l b e v a l u a b l e t o e v e r y

y o u n g m o t h e r , a n d p a r t i c u l a r l y s o a s t h e m o d i f i c a t i o n s o f

t i m e a n d c i r c u m s t a n c e s a n d m o t h e r h o o d w i l l g i v e t o t h e

d i r e c t io n s l a i d d o w n a h u m a n p r a c t i c a b i l i t y . — B a l t i m o r e S u n .

A model book o f i ts k ind and f i l l ed with sensible sugges-

t i o n s r e g a r d i n g t h e c a r e o f t h e i n f a n t i n a l l m i n o r m a t t e r s

p e r t a i n i n g t o i t s h e a l t h a n d c o m f o r t . T h e y o u n g m o t h e r

w h o m a y t a k e u p o n h e r s e l f t h e r e s p o n s i b i l i t i e s o f t h e

n u r s e w i l l f i n d i n t h i s s m a l l v o l u m e a n a b u n d a n c e o f u s e f u l

h i n t s t o g u i d e h e r i n a l l t h e l i t t l e e m e r g e n c i e s w h i c h m a y

a r is e i n t h e d i s c h a r g e of h e r m u l t i t u d i n o u s f u n c t i o n s . —

Medical Record , N . Y .



cooking in old creole days 1904

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