cosmetic world jan 10, 2011

Shoppers spent more money this holiday season, resulting in a 5.5% increase in spending in the 50 days before Christmas, according to MasterCard Advisors SpendingPulse, a retail spending tracker. Their data suggests that the pre-Christmas sales swell was the biggest in five years, with spending reaching about $584.3 billion, compared with $566.3 billion in that period in 2007.

Exceeding even the more optimistic of forecasts, the rise was seen in just about every retail category, with significant boosts in apparel and jewelry. “For the

past year or two, when I’ve seen growth in one area, it seems to come at the expense of another,” said Michael McNamara, vice president of research and analysis at SpendingPulse. “Here, things are actually all moving in the right direction.”

The blizzard that struck the East Coast and derai led shoppers on December 26 and 27 was a significant factor in disappointing sales, as this is the time when stores typically try to capitalize on traffic for exchanges,

Cosmetic World, founded in 1966, is published by The Ledes Group Inc. Neither Cosmetic World News of the U.K. nor Cosmetique News of France has any affiliation with our premier international newsweekly. ©2011 Cosmetic World, a division of The Ledes Group. No reproduction of material herein without express permission of the copyright owner. Reproduction by photographic or any method will be treated as willful violation of the copyright laws. 1

BULLETIN

jaNUaRy 10, 2011 Vol. XLVI / No. 1www.cosmeticworld.com

Cosmetic World®

HOLIDAY RETAIL SALES BEAT FORECASTS

IT’S A mIRACLE SKIN TRANSFORmER

DAVID YURmAN INTRODUCES

FRAGRANCE TRIO

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FiFi AWARDS RetuRN to liNColN CeNteRthe Fragrance Foundation’s 2011 FiFi award nomination process is underway. Entry forms can be found online at

tPR HolDiNGS ACQuiReS tRiloGY FRAGRANCeS tPR Holdings acquired trilogy Fragrances inc., a developer and manufacturer of natural and

In 2008, David Yurman launched its first signature women’s fragrance in conjunction with the Clarins Group. The debut scent was inspired by the designer’s sense of balance and symmetry, as it is represented in his jewelry—uniquely constructed pieces with a modern classic style. Building upon the global success of the original signature fragrance, David yurman’s inspiring artistry can now be seen in his three newest fragrance creations—the David Yurman essence Collection.

The trio of fragrances was designed to echo the radiance of significant gem-stones used in David yurman jewelry—Delicate essence resembles lustrous pink tourmaline, Fresh essence captures


Since the launch of Miracle Skin transformer (MST) last year, Sarah McNamara, founder and CEO of MSt Beauty New York, has been a very busy woman. Noticing a gap in the market,

Ms. McNamara spent years working on a complete proprietary f o rmu la t i on t ha t would save consum-ers from having to buy several products i n o rde r t o l ook beautiful.

She continually found that people from various back-grounds—business

women, athletes, stay-at-home moms, teens and even men—desired a premium product that hydrated, enhanced and protected skin, all in one time-saving application.

“after many years of working in the beauty industry, I wanted to create a formula that was not only going to retexturize your skin’s texture and tone, but also deliver the latest in hydration


PCPC to Be HelD iN PAlM BeACHThe Personal Care Products Council will host their annual meeting on February 28-March 2

P&G PReSeNtS CoVeRGiRl NAtuReluXe

O n e o f P ro c t e r & Gamble’s most success-ful mass-market beauty brands , CoverGir l , launched Natureluxe S i lk Foundat ion , a product which is part of the new Natureluxe





KAiSeR CAPtuReS VANiSHiNG SCeNt

Dr. Roman Kaiser, a perfumer, botanist and scientist at Givaudan, has worked for over ten years collecting and investigating the scent of nearly 500 endangered

Givaudan’s Cos Policastro, Dr. Roman Kaiser and Kate Greene.


2 jANuARY 10, 2011 CoSMetiC WoRlD

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For future events, go to cosmeticworldcalendar.com

HOLIDAY RETAIL SALES BEAT FORECASTS

returns and gift cards. analysts have noted that stores will not lose those sales, but they will be pushed back into january with the extension of sales and more widespread advertising.

Whether the storm aided the

increase in online sales or not, the Associated Press reported that americans spent 13% more while cyber shopping this holiday season, calculating a record $30.81 billion in sales.

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vivid peridot and exotic essence symbolizes glistening citrine.

Intended to express a woman’s personal style and to suit her moods and emotions, each artful scent was designed by Harry Fremont, master perfumer at Firmenich, to reveal its own distinctive spirit and captivating charm. Each fragrance is presented in a beveled glass bottle finished with a silver cap featuring David yurman’s signature cable design.

Delicate Essence, in tender shades of pink, stirs up a modern floral combination of pink peony blossom and blonde woods. The vivid green juice of Fresh Essence exudes a fruity floral scent of apple and cassis, enhanced with crisp greens and water lily. The third of the trio, Exotic Essence, exposes a modern sensual oriental scent with top notes of spar-kling mandarin and dry notes of vanilla absolute and warm musk.

Each fragrance is 3.4 oz. and will be available in February for $85.00 at David yurman retail stores, Bloomingdale’s and davidyurman.com.

DAVID YURmAN

Retail SaleS: DeCeMBeR 2010 vS 2009SeleCt SpeCialty StoReS(in $ millions) December 2010 % Change Same-Store Sales %limited Brands $1,790.0 7.8% 5.0%Neiman Marcus $583.0 4.9% 5.1% Nordstrom $1,390.0 11.9% 8.4% Saks inc. $432.2 9.8% 11.8%

GeneRal DepaRtMent StoReS December 2010 % Change Same-Store Sales %Bon-ton $510.8 (0.1%) 0.1%Dillard’s $1,068.7 6.0% 7.0%Macy’s $4,619.0 4.5% 3.9%

populaR DepaRtMent StoReS December 2010 % Change Same-Store Sales %Kohl’s $3,192.0 5.9% 3.9%jC Penney $2,955.0 2.3% 3.7%tjX Companies $3,000.0 6.0% 2.0%

MaSS RetaileRS December 2010 % Change Same-Store Sales %Costco $9,190.0 11.0% 6.0%target $9,882.0 1.4% 0.9%

Chain Drug Store retailerS December 2010 % Change Same-Store Sales %Rite Aid $2,081.0 (0.5%) 0.6%Walgreens $6,810.0 7.5% 2.8%

NEWPRODUCTSeStÉe lauDer

Sumptuous extreme MascaraCategory: Makeuplaunch: December 2010Claims: available in four shades, this mascara combines a lightweight Extreme Bold Volume Formula with an exclusive Extreme BrushComber to give you the most outra-geously bold lashes.Stats: $23.50

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futur • fracas • bandit • cravache • baghari • visa • calypso

RP-Calypso_allparfums-ad.indd 1 11/30/10 12:14 PM


NEWPRODUCTS

IT’S A mIRACLE SKIN TRANSFORmER

and protect ion benef i t s ,” said McNamara. “I truly believe that this formulation will be life-changing for today’s busy women and men.”

M i r a c l e S k i n Tr a n s f o r m e r combines several powerful ingredi-ents to construct the MST Complex, including saw palmetto and passion fruit extracts, Vitamins a, K and E, Co-Enzyme Q10, naturally derived silicones, mica, SPF 20 and Eco-Cert certi f ied Ecophysalis, which is exclusive to the formula.

“ U s i n g n a t u r a l l y s i l i c o n e -b a s e d ingredients, the product is able to d e l i ve r a s m o o t h e r application that stays true to form,” said McNamara. “and with Ecophysalis, we get a key ingre-dient that helps prevent brown spots and rosacea, repair broken capillaries and increase skin tone luminosity.”

Us ing co lo r m i n e r a l s t o provide t inted coverage, Miracle Skin Transformer is now available in six shades, as well as a trans-l u c e n t s h a d e , t o a p p e a l t o consumers of all ethnicities.

Not only has the webs i te— miracleskintransformer.com—attracted over 350,000 vis i tors , but the positive response of consumers is resonating throughout the beauty industry.

Next up for MST is a men’s version that will be released in February, and a treat & Conceal product for the areas around the eyes that need extra coverage will debut in March.

“We are a growing, building brand,” said McNamara. “I only want to deliver game-changing products that really work, and keep a tight line of high-performance SKUs. There is definitely more to come.”

P&G CONTINUES GLOBAL SUSTAINABILITY

EFFORTConsumer goods giant Procter & Gamble has taken notice of the increasing interest in sustainability by consumers around the world. The company has made it their goal to ensure a better quality of life for present generations and those to come by creating their products in an environmentally responsible manner.

“Our global sustainability effort is something we have been working on for a while, but just never talked about,” said jenny Rushmore, global sustainability director at P&G. “We are one of the only companies to have a corporate sustainability department.”

By pioneering a new tool called the Life Cycle assessment, P&G was able to begin assessing the carbon footprints of specific beauty products. This allows the company to look for ways to decrease the use of chemical ingredients, without compromising the product’s perfor-mance, aesthetic and value.

Over the course of a year, P&G employees and a team of external experts developed a long-term vision of product and operational end-points, some of which may take decades to achieve.

“By 2020, we hope to be producing 30% renewable packaging by using sugarcane-derived plastic,” said Rushmore. “We want to introduce ecological cycles into human cycles so that the packaging can be reused, and we have already reduced CO2 emissions by 25% in the last three years. olay total effects, CoverGirl Natureluxe Silk Foundation and Gillette Fusion have already designed their packaging to reduce plastic use.”

another long-term goal includes having zero consumer and manufac-turing waste go to landfills, and P&G plans to take the waste from their factories and use it in a helpful way somewhere else.

“No one really has all the answers at this point,” said Rushmore. “But P&G is really committed to being part of the solution.”

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CliniQue Clarifying lotion

Category: Skin carelaunch: january 2011Claims: This new dermatologist refor-mulated clarifying lotion helps skin

regularly and effectively shed dead skin cells to reveal healthier, cleaner skin. With special buffering agents to make exfoliation more comfortable, each gentle sweep clears away pollution, grime and dulling flakes so skin can thrive.Key ingredients: Hyaluronic acid, glycerin, salicylic acid and trehalose.Stats: 6.7 oz., $12.50 and 13.5 oz., $21.00

Vera WangPreppy Princess

Category: Fragrance

launch: january 2011Claims: This

lusciously woody and

fruity fragrance is for the confident, edgy and savvy

woman who is the leader of the pack and always dressed to impress

without ever trying. Key ingredients: Tangerine, red

apple, honeysuckle, jasmine and coconut water.

Stats: 1.0 oz., $45.00, 1.7 oz., $60.00 and 3.4 oz., $75.00

Sarah McNamara

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5jANuARY 10, 2011 CoSMetiC WoRlD

This month, Sephora is revealing Sephora Collection Skincare, a complete range of 19 targeted care products to cleanse, treat, moisturize and protect. at the core of the collection is HydroSenn+, a new and exclusive plant-derived active ingredient proven in clinical testing to be more effective than hyaluronic acid at adding moisture to the skin. HydroSenn+, a p o l y s a c c h a r i d e extracted from the seeds of an Indian plant called Cassia angustifolia, forms a protective barrier on the skin’s surface that i s ab le to ha rness and retain water for o p t i m a l m o i s t u r e throughout the day.

Each skin care formula has been tested under strict dermatological and ophthalmological supervision and is completely free of parabens, GMO’s, triclosan, sulfates and phthalates, making them suitable for sensitive skin as well.

“We had the benefit of using all of the data Sephora has accumulated to develop products that customers really wanted,” said Catherine Gore, director of Sephora Collection for Sephora. “Using feedback from our online outlets and social media

aspects also played a strong role in the creative process.”

The collection features bright colors with straight-forward product names that aim to make the line simpler for shoppers to understand. also, using refreshing scents, all of the face products include a fresh green floral

a r o m a , w h i l e t h e b o dy products have a green tea scent blended with hyacinth, jasmine, sandalwood and white musk.

Including a range of products from Supreme Cleansing Foam ($24) to age Defy Eye Cream ($24), and Sugar Body Scrub ($18) to Express Cleansing Wipes ($9), this collection is available in all Sephora stores and sephora.com beginning this month.

SePHoRA CReAteS SKiN CARe ColleCtioN

Plants and other natural products have historically been the largest contributors to the cosmetic industry. origins researched for over five years with plant scientists at the University of Strasbourg in France to develop their latest addition to the skin care category, Plantscription Anti-aging serum with African Anogeissus.

“Plantscription is one of the most significant product launches in the history of the Origins brand,” said jane lauder, global president and general manager of Origins.

according to a face-to-face 20-week s tudy that tested Plantscription against a g o l d s t a n d a r d prescription retinoic acid on women ages 42-63, Plantscription clinically proved to have 88% of the visi-ble wrinkle-reducing power of the leading prescription without the challenging side effects of photosensi-tivity, burning, dry-ness, redness and i t ch ing . The key ingredient, african anogeissus, comes from the leaves and

bark of the sacred anogeissus tree found in The Republic of Ghana. Local african tribes harvest the rare extract of anogeissus, known as “Siiga” (which means “the soul”), and use it as a natural wound healer and antimicrobial.

“Our discoveries regarding the african anogeissus tree were aston-ishing,” said Dr. Annelise lobstein, Professor of Pharmacognosy at the University of Strasbourg. “The bark is particularly concentrated into com-pounds able to stimulate the natural

ORIGINS REVOLUTIONIZES

SERUm WITH PLANTSCRIPTION

production of fibrillin, which is responsible for helping to support the structure of the skin. The facial appearance becomes firmer and lifted, contributing ultimately to reducing the appearance of wrinkles, fine lines and the visible signs of skin aging.”

Plantscription anti-aging serum is priced at $55.00 for 1 oz. and will be available globally at Origins retail stores, select department stores and origins.com in March.

aFFliCtionAffliction Cologne

Category: Fragrance

launch: December

2010Claims:

Inspired by the brand’s highly styled rock ‘n roll lifestyle, this powerful

cologne is designed for the guy who demands attention. The scent is as distinctive as the man who wears it.

Key ingredients: Lemon, pear, persimmon, jasmine, juniper, sweet

almond and tonka. Stats: 4 oz., $59.95

NEWPRODUCTS

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NYC COLOR DEBUTS NEW LOOK

NYC New York Color (NyC) has gone through a brand revolution and is revealing their new look this month during the global launch of their new spring collection. With the help of Coty’s research and insight, and NyC’s attitude and openness to

experiment, the brand was able to redefine itself and add an artsy element to their packaging, as well as an updated logo.

Representing the spirit of New york City—fashion, beauty and style—NyC New york Color aims to

offer women the opportunity to buy cosmetics more frequently, try new looks with minimal risk, get more value for their money and feel good about treating themselves to cosmetics purchases.

For the spring season, NyC is introducing a new concealer, lip gloss and lip stain, two new foundations and six different mascaras, each with its own specific formula and brush to provide shoppers with flexibility—and all are between $1.99 and $4.99. Moreover, they have created an all-in-one eyeshadow palette, IndividualEyes Custom Compact-Smokey Eyes, which includes a primer, illuminator, four pressed shadows and a double-ended applicator for $4.99.

plant species worldwide, of which 267 are described in his latest title, “Scent of the Vanishing Flora.” The book starts with an introductory section sharing some research and concerns about the loss of biodiversity and extinction of key species around the world. Dr. Kaiser discusses the scented species of the Vanishing Flora encountered during his expeditions to such exotic places as the Hawaiian Islands, the Cape Floral Kingdom, the rainforests around the tropical belt and the European alps.

“Dr. Kaiser has been with Givaudan for over 40 years, and is certainly one of our finest treasures,” said Kate Greene, vice president of marketing of fine fragrances at Givaudan. “His nose goes where the normal human nose can’t go.”

as the leader of Givaudan’s Scent Trek program, Dr. Kaiser is able to capture the olfactive scents of plants and flowers that are becoming extinct so that they may live on forever.

“The plant kingdom is in peril,” said Kaiser. “Nature has always set the standards for our olfactory judgments and therefore it is only logical, even a must, to search in nature for new molecules and scent concepts for perfumers to use.”

KAiSeR CAPtuReS VANiSHiNG SCeNt

P&G PReSeNtS CoVeRGiRl NAtuReluXe

collection. This innovative founda-tion inspired by nature provides full coverage that feels lightweight, while providing an oil-free SPF 10 which is suitable for oily, normal and sensitive skin types. By exchanging certain heavier synthetic ingredients for natural ones like jojoba and rosehip extracts, the foundation is able to balance creaminess on application, leaving the skin feeling soft and silky.

In an unbranded survey, eight out of ten professional makeup artists agreed that NatureLuxe Silk Foundation provided a luxurious skin finish and lightweight feel, and seven out of ten

said they would recommend the product to their clients.

“In makeup, we’re seeing luxe-simplicity influence a fresh yet flawless look, which is both luxurious and radiant,” said Pat McGrath, global creative design director and makeup artist for CoverGirl. “I call this the ‘naturally polished’ look.”

available in 14 shades ranging from light to dark tones, NatureLuxe Silk Foundation is available nation-wide for $11.99 beginning this month, and CoverGirl spokeswoman taylor Swift will be featured in the advertising campaigns.



FuSion BeautYPrimeResults Anti-Redness Primer

Category: Skin care/Makeuplaunch: November 2010Claims: Ultra-soothing peptides and mineral-rich algae protect against skin stressors that trigger redness and irritation, while the cool green shade neutralizes redness due to inflammation. Stats: $42.00

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7jANuARY 10, 2011 CoSMetiC WoRlD

BULLETINFiFi AWARDS

fragrance.org, and all forms must be received by january 18. New awards this year include Fragrance Superstar of the year and Consumer’s Choice award.

additionally, submissions for the Technological Breakthrough of the year categories—Technological Breakthrough in Fragrance Creation/Formulation and Technological Breakthrough in Packaging/Delivery Systems—must be received at The Fragrance Foundation by February 1. all entries will be pre-screened by a panel of experts in the pertinent category before being approved for final nomination and judging.

This year’s FiFi Finalists Breakfast will take place at the Mandarin Oriental on april 8, and the FiFi awards will be held under The Tent at Damrosch Park in Lincoln Center on May 25.

tPR HolDiNGS

PCPC iN PAlM BeACH

organic fragrances for the personal care industry. all of Trilogy’s current staff and management are being retained, as well as the company’s headquarters in Lakewood, New jersey.

“The natural and organic fragrance sector is an attractive market,” said Brian Robinson, president of TPR Holdings. “as a leader in the natural fragrance category, Trilogy offers a fantastic platform for strong expansion and further category growth.”

at the Breakers Hotel in Palm Beach, Florida. In addition to the change in venue, this year’s event will include a Policy Summit to focus on the major issues facing the industry, an opening reception and dinner for all attendees and an awards luncheon to recognize industry leaders. There will also be two general sessions featuring key-note speakers joshua Cooper Ramo, managing director of Kissinger Associates, and trends expert/author, jim Carroll, as well as a new Beauty Editors’ Panel to be moderated by elizabeth Arden’s Art Spiro.




Luxury womenswear des igner Douglas Hannant has created his very first fragrance in collaboration with Robert Piguet Parfums. Inspired by the sophist ication of haute couture, Douglas Hannant de

Robert Piguet is a light floral that is modern, clean and fresh. Created b y G i v a u d a n perfumer Aurélien Guichard , th i s genuine French parfum opens with notes of orange blossom, pear and gardenia and lin-gers with bottom notes of sandal-wood, jasmine and white musk.

“It was important to me that the blend of notes be just right and not too strong,” said Hannant. “It is extraordinarily subtle; not too floral or citrusy.”

as a nod to Douglas Hannant’s design sensibility and couture tradition, each bottle is hand poured, labeled and individually sealed with silver thread. “I was very excited when Robert Piguet Parfums approached

me about creating this extraordinary fragrance with Givaudan,” said Hannant. “It is a youthful, modern and feminine scent that I think my clients all over the world will enjoy.”

available in stores in February, the 1 oz. parfum is priced at $210.00, and the 1.7 oz. and 3.4 oz. eau de parfums will be $85.00 and $120.00.

“For the past few years, Robert Piguet Parfums has reintroduced several of Robert Piguet’s original fragrances, the most famous being Fracas, and now we are proud to

launch our first designer signature fragrance with Douglas Hannant,” said joe Garces, president and CEO of Robert Piguet Parfums.

DouGlAS HANNANt uNVeilS FiRSt FRAGRANCe

NEWPRODUCTStoo FaCeD

Shadow insurance CandlelightCategory: Makeuplaunch: january 2011Claims: The legendary Shadow Insurance primer is now romantically lit with the shimmering golden glow of candlelight that adds just a touch of warm metallic flair to your lids. Its unique color binders guarantee your shadows will never crease, smudge or fade.Stats: $18.00

MCCuRDY AtloRD & tAYloRCapital recording artist, jennette McCurdy, who also stars on the Nickelodeon TV series, iCarly, will be holding a private meet-and-greet at the lord & taylor flagship store on February 7.

Tickets are available for $25.00 and include the meet-and-greet with jennette, a signed headshot, downloadable photo, and a $25.00 Lord & Taylor gift card. The $25.00 donation goes directly to The james E. Marshall OCD Foundation.

The following evening, she will perform at the Beyond Beauty Dinner at The Union League Club.

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Douglas Hannant with joe Garces of Robert Piguet Parfums.


february

JaNuary

march

FeBRuARY 8thjames e. Marshall oCD FoundationBeyond Beauty Dinner Honoring Givaudan’s Cosimo Policastro and Marie Claire’s Nancy Berger CardoneUnion League Club • NYC 6:00 PM (B) (tA)(608) 845-3664

FeBRuARY 9thCiBSMonthly LuncheonThe Manhattan Club • NYC 12:00 PM www.cibsonline.com

FeBRuARY 15thCosmetic executive WomenNewsmaker Forum with Walmart’s Carmen BauzaHarmonie Club • NYC 5:30 PM (R) (S) (tA)(646) 929-8026www.cew.org

FeBRuARY 24thiCMADTechnical/Regulatory ForumBalboa Bay Club & Resort • Newport Beach CA (847) 991-4499www.icmad.org

FeBRuARY 28 - MARCH 2ndPersonal Care Products CouncilAnnual MeetingThe Breakers • Palm Beach FL (M)(202) 331-1770

jANuARY 12thCiBSMonthly LuncheonThe Manhattan Club • NYC 12:00 PM www.cibsonline.com

jANuARY 20thCosmetic executive WomenWomen in Beauty Series: Digital Beauty with mark.’s Annemarie Frank, The Estée Lauder Companies’ Marisa Thalberg and Maybelline New York-Garnier’s Kristen YraolaHarmonie Club • NYC 5:30 PM (R) (S) (tA)(646) 929-8026www.cew.org

jANuARY 25thFragrance FoundationHot Off the PressThe Plaza • NYC 7:45 AM Members Only (212) 725-2755www.fragrance.org

jANuARY 27thSkin Cancer FoundationSunscreen SymposiumNYC 9:00 AM www.skincancer.org

jANuARY 30 - FeBRuARY 3rdeX•tRACtS at NYiGFJavits Center • NYC (t)(800) 272-SHOWwww.extractsny.com

MARCH 9thCiBSMonthly LuncheonThe Manhattan Club • NYC 12:00 PM www.cibsonline.com

Cosmetic executive WomenBeauty Awards Product DemonstrationMetropolitan Pavilion • NYC 6:00 PM (R) (io)(646) 929-8026www.cew.org

MARCH 18thiCMADReception at Cosmoprof BolognaBologna Italy (R)(847) 991-4499www.icmad.org

MARCH 18 - 20thBeauty internationalTrade Fair for Cosmetic, Nail, Foot & Wellness ProfessionalsDusseldorf Germany (t)(312) 781-5180www.beauty-international.com

MARCH 18 - 21stCosmoprof BolognaBologna Italy (t)www.cosmoprof.com

MARCH 23rdFragrance FoundationTrends EventTime-Life Inc. • NYC 8:30 AM (S) (tA)(212) 725-2755www.fragrance.org

MARCH 24thCiBSSpring Cocktail PartyBowlmor Carnival • NYC 6:00 PM www.cibsonline.com

MARCH 29 - 30thluxe Pack ShanghaiShanghai Intl Convention Center • Shanghai China (t)(212) 274-8508www.luxepack.com

Subject:(A) Awards(B) Benefit(e) Retail event(i) Product intro(M) Meeting(P) Press trip(R) Reception(S) Seminar(t) trade Show

Admission detail:(io) invitation only (tA) tickets Available

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