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    Crafting Composure Part II: A Study of the Clinic,

    Mental Instability and Embroidery

    Amy Chandler2016

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    “The real problem about psychoanalysis is that so many people behave as if it were true.”

    - David Cooper, The Language of Madness, 1978 (23).

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    Anxiety, depression, and other forms of mental instability

    are widely prevalent in today’s contemporary society. Although

    mental unwellness is not as heavily stigmatized as it was a

    century ago, individuals, including myself, struggle daily with

    coping with mental instability, the perception of it in society,

    and how to care for such unpleasant feelings. This paper, which

    is a second installment of a project I began in September of

    2015 1 , is an inquisition into the connections between mental

    wellness and craft processes. I investigate the systematic

    treatment of mentally unwell individuals in a clinical setting,

    a brief history of mental health in European and North American

    regions, and the availability of healthy management techniques

    for all persons, regardless of financial status, gender, race,

    or class. This paper is born out of personal experience, and I

    seek to add to the ever-growing discourse surrounding the

    accessibility of free, useful, sustainable, and flexible methods

    of coping with mental instability.

    To investigate the links between the creative process and

    mental health, I have utilized both primary and secondary

    sources. The heart of this project is drawn from practice-based

    research. Throughout the course of this research, I have

    embroidered steadily, and recorded my mental wellness in a blog

    $ Amy Chandler. “Crafting Composure” 2015. " www.craftingcomposure.tumblr.com

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    online. 2 I have also had multiple e-mail interviews, and have

    engaged with the archival fonds on the occupational therapist

    and weaver Mary E. Black housed at the Nova Scotia Archives. For

    secondary sources, I have drawn from many books and articles,

    especially David Cooper’s Language of Madness 3 , Rozsika Parker’s

    The Subversive Stitch 4 , and Michel Foucault’s Madness and

    Civilization . 5 I have also looked at the ideologies of

    psychologists Jan Baptista van Helmont, and Sigmund Freud. I am

    using social art history and a critique of psychoanalytic theory

    to contend with this body of research, which I am viewing

    through a feminist lens.

    Shortly after I graduated from high school in my late

    teens, I was diagnosed with Social Anxiety Disorder (SAD),

    Obsessive Compulsive Disorder (OCD), and General Depression

    Disorder. Although I acknowledged chronological catalysts that

    lead to the institutional treatment of these categorized

    disorders, I knew I had grappled with these hindrances through

    the entire memory of my life. Now they were named. I engaged

    with a traditional psychoanalytic therapist upon the

    encouragement of my mother. Our sessions felt uncomfortable,

    " www.craftingcomposure.tumblr.com # David Cooper. The Language of Madness , 1978. % Rozsika Parker. The Subversive Stitch: Embroidery and the Making of theFeminine , 1984. & Michel Foucault. Madness and Civilization: A History of Insanity in the Ageof Reason , 1965.

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    cold, clinical, and lacking connection. Even shifting to

    different therapists or clinics did not seem to ease the

    discomfort of my interactions.

    One experience in particular was astoundingly impersonal.

    On a first session with a specific psychologist, she gave me

    quantitative surveys to fill out before my next appointment.

    These surveys asked questions such as “how often are you

    entirely unable to sleep?” or “how often do you find yourself

    thinking suicidal thoughts?”. You were supposed to measure your

    response to these huge, weighing questions on a scale of 1 to 5,

    5 being all the time, 1 being never. It was a long time before I

    was able to bring my filled in surveys back to my therapist as

    she canceled and rescheduled my next appointment 3 or 4 times,

    despite my answers to these questions ranging in the 4s and 5s.

    When I was finally able to bring my responses in for analysis,

    she did a quick tally, then curtly informed me that I was

    categorized as having general depression and social anxiety

    disorder. She then informed me that she was a very busy person,

    and I “wasn’t that bad,” so unless I was feeling immediately

    suicidal, I didn’t need to come back. I knew instantly that this

    form of treatment for my mental instabilities was not working,

    was not worth the vast hourly rate, and that I needed to

    investigate other avenues.

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    I attempted yoga, meditation, exercise, cleaning sprees,

    and medication. I found none of these solutions to be

    sustainable for my individual personality, so none of them

    assisted permanently in managing the abyss that is suffering

    from mental instability.

    2 years ago I began teaching myself how to embroider. Aside

    from the many pleasures I believe to be inherent to embroidery

    as a craft, I noticed a calmness in performing the repetitive

    task of stitching. Embroidering soon became a delightful pastime

    for me, and I found myself losing hours (and stresses) to the

    craft. Being a self-taught artist, I found a control in honing

    my skills, and having total freedom over the pictorial content

    within my works. That meditative healing, which derived from an

    especially accessible and portable craft, became the jumping off

    point for this project, and the further investigations within it

    into the creative/productive process and reducing mental

    instability.

    I would like to take this opportunity to state my personal

    biases on the treatment of mental instability and my stance in

    relation to psychoanalytic therapy within this paper. It is my

    belief that mental instabilities, although absurdly unpleasant,

    potentially hazardous to one’s physical health, and dismally

    confusing, do not need to be completely eradicated. It is my

    personal belief that the complete entity of mental illness is

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    not negative. For instance, my anxiety sometimes acts as a sixth

    sense to me, and I find myself very aware of others’ telling

    mannerisms and thoughts. My depression allows me to be critical

    of my surroundings, my relationships, and myself. My OCD is very

    helpful in my artistic practice, and has been instrumental in

    developing an aesthetic that I find delightful and visually

    pleasing. I do not mean to romanticize mental illness in any

    way. It is my intention to impart that not all experiences

    within mental instability are definitively negative. This method

    of managing my mental instabilities is in no way intended to be

    universal. It is more so an experience that I, and others as the

    interviews show, have found helpful, and could potentially be

    used or adapted to assist a wider population. There is long

    history of interactions between mentally unwell individuals,

    their experiences, and their perception by society that has lead

    to me being able to come to this position in relation to mental

    wellness.

    History

    Although mental instability, or “madness” as it may have

    been referred to historically, is seemingly prevalent in

    contemporary society, it is nothing new. As history progresses

    through the Common Era, treatments of individuals suffering from

    mental instability, and the classification of their plights have

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    varied. It is helpful to grasp a vastly condensed history of

    mental (un)wellness and its perception in society in order to

    properly contextualize my practice-based research and the

    interview responses.

    In the beginning of the 15 th century, individuals suffering

    from mental instability were viewed and treated as the awkward

    group within society that just didn’t mesh well. These persons

    were carted or sailed off to remote places. 6 Mentally unwell

    individuals were often banned from entering churches, 7 and there

    developed a noticeable tension between mentally “healthy” and

    “unhealthy” members of society. Mental instability remained

    mysterious, its source and necessary treatment unclear.

    In Canada in the 17 th and 18 th centuries, it was thought by

    European settlers that bizarre behaviours could be attributed to

    demonic possession, or an imbalance of the 4 bodily humors. 8

    Exorcisms were occasionally performed on individuals suffering

    from madness, or prayers were said in their name. 9 To restore

    what was thought to be an imbalance in the 4 bodily humors

    (blood, phlegm, black bile, and yellow bile) early Canadian

    ' Michel Foucault. Madness and Civilization , 1965: 8. ( Ibid, 9-10. ) James E. Moran. “History of Madness and Mental Illness: A Short History ofCare and Treatment in Canada”, 2009. * Ibid.

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    its Director having final veto power over all treatments

    performed on housed individuals. The committed individuals

    within the Hôpital Général were mostly all male.

    If you were a female experiencing mental instability at

    this time and place, you were sent to the Salpêtrière, which

    opened in 1670. 14 The majority of these women were categorized as

    suffering from “hysteria”. Hysteria derives from the Greek word

    for “uterus” and the intense emotionality it denoted was once

    thought to be due to a wandering womb. 15 Men, due to their

    anatomy were of course exempt from this diagnosis. A woman was

    diagnosed as hysterical if she exhibited shallow and/or extreme

    emotions, uncontrollable shaking fits, paralysis, and/or

    overdramatic or attention-seeking behaviours. The French

    psychologist Jean-Martin Charcot was one of the main attendants

    to this disease. Charcot ran a popular weekly lecture series in

    the Salpêtrière, using live female patients as exhibits or

    specimens. 16 These women were analyzed, photographed, and

    agitated to the point of “hysterical fits” which were in fact

    seizures or panic attacks. 17 The term “hysteria” was a vast

    diagnosis, encompassing far too many symptoms for the treatment

    of it to be of any help to anyone.

    $% Georges Didi-Huberman. Invention of Hysteria , 2003: 3. $& Rebecca Solnit. Men Explain Things To Me , 2014: 105. $' Didi-Huberman. Invention of Hysteria , 23.$( Ibid, 3.

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    These houses of confinement from the 17 th century were the

    models for the ones that became so prevalent in North American

    beginning in the 19 th century. Asylums were built beginning on

    the Eastern coast of Canada, with one of the first built in

    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia. This hospital, named the Mount Hope

    Asylum for the Insane, opened its doors in 1895. Within these

    asylums, massive issues of power abuse occurred, with instances

    of wrongful confinement, and institutional violence toward

    patients. Even treatment that was deemed medically acceptable

    was highly questionable. For instance, the use of water as a

    treatment on mentally unwell patients was problematic. Immersion

    into water was seen as purifying and cleansing, ridding the mind

    and the body of ailments. 18 Jan Baptista van Helmont, a Flemish

    psychologist practicing in the early 17 th century, thought that

    by plunging patients into water, he had cured them of insanity.

    He is quoted as saying, “The only care that must be taken, is to

    plunge the sufferers into the water suddenly and unawares, and

    to keep them there for a long time. One need have no fear for

    their lives.” 19 In this quote, van Helmont demonstrates his

    perception of his patients as objectified and disposable, and

    therefore his hierarchical position above them.

    Sigmund Freud also demonstrates problems within treatment

    of mentally unwell individuals. Freud was an Austrian

    $) Foucault. Madness and Civilization , 168. $* Foucault quoting van Helmont. Madness and Civilization , 168.

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    neurologist practicing in the late 19 th and early 20 th centuries.

    He is known as the “Father of Psychoanalysis”. Freud categorized

    anxiety as a “free-floating” fear, as opposed to a phobia-

    specific fear. 20 Free-floating fear, according to Freud, was

    entirely caused by sexual frustration, or “ coitus interruptus ”. 21

    He is also quoted as saying, “for the average human it is true

    that anxiety and sexual constraint belong together.” 22 Freud did

    individuals suffering from mental instability within his care a

    vast disservice by classifying all causes of anxiety as sexual

    ones, and did not look deeper for a different conclusion than

    his expected one.

    Although presently doctors are no longer practicing hostile

    water immersion as a treatment for anxiety and/or depression,

    psychoanalytic techniques born of that era are still used today.

    Traditional medical treatments for mental instability proved

    insufficient for me. I would like to take this opportunity to

    consider an excerpt from David Cooper’s Language of Madness:

    “There are no examples to follow, certainly not mine. What is

    necessary for one person is by no means necessary for anyone

    else. We each have our own madnesses, our own paths.” 23

    "+ Sigmund Freud. “XXV. Fear and Anxiety.” A General Introduction toPsychoanalysis, 1920: paragraph 20. "$ Ibid, paragraph 18. "" Ibid, paragraph 20. "# David Cooper. The Language of Madness , 1978: 16.

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    “Many chemical medications are prescribed for individuals

    suffering from mental instabilities. Most commonly prescribed

    for anxiety are benzodiazepines or tranquilizers like

    alprazolam, clonazepam, or lorazepam, but beta-blockers or anti-

    depressants are also used. For some people, these medications

    are useful, effective, and helpful. For others, they are not the

    right path. Unfortunately, many benzodiazepines are physically

    addictive and lead to dependency after just a few weeks or

    months. Medications can also have the opposite of the intended

    effect, in some cases increasing anxiety or causing suicidal

    thoughts.

    “Taking or not taking medication is a personal choice. For

    myself, it was not the right one. Unfortunately, many doctors

    and physicians prescribe medication to patients without

    considering that person’s specific history for addiction, or the

    exact nature of that individual’s mental illness. This decision

    is often executed quickly and without careful consideration

    because of the over-stuffed nature of our medical

    institutions.” 24

    Now that an extremely condensed history of the treatment

    and perception of mentally unwell persons within western society

    has been established, it and its lingering effects in

    contemporaneity can be critiqued.

    "% Chandler. Crafting Composure , 11-12. **I had written this part so accuratelyin the first installment of this paper that I could not bear to reword it.

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    Problems with Traditional Psychoanalytical Therapy

    Psychoanalysis is defined by Merriam-Webster as “a method

    of explaining and treating mental and emotional problems by

    having the patient talk about dreams, feelings, memories, etc.” 25

    This method of treatment doesn’t sound so bad, and I do not find

    fault in the treatment of mental instability by that definition.

    However, when one considers the professionalization of the field

    of psychology, this is where it becomes problematic. Acquiring

    psychoanalytical treatment in contemporary western society

    usually involves an exchange of currency. Excepting getting

    referred to a random psychologist by one’s family or clinic

    doctor, individuals suffering from mental instability are

    usually on the hook for a hefty bill for their treatment. In

    2015, the average salary for psychologists practicing in Canada

    was $75,850 per year. 26 In Nova Scotia in 2015, the average

    salary for an individual was $35,360. 27 The average hourly rate

    an individual must pay to receive psychoanalytical therapy in

    Canada in 2011 was $83 per hour. 28 To put that in perspective,

    that hourly rate was $73 more than the minimum wage in Nova

    "& Merriam-Webster.com. . "' Payscale.com. . "( Statistics Canada. . ") Chron.ca. .

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    Scotia at the time, which was $9.65-$10.00. 29 Medication for

    mental instability can also be expensive. If it were not for my

    insurance in 2014, I would have been charged $90 for a

    prescription meant to last 12 days.

    I also find issue in the language and categorization that

    occurs within the clinical treatment of mental instability.

    Complicated medical terms and names for mental disorders

    alienate the individual from their own experiences. Language

    surrounding the treatment and perception of mental instability

    is highly important. It can be the difference between an

    individual continuing with care that does not work for them, and

    finding a solution suitable to their unique mental needs.

    Language surrounding mental instability defines how individuals

    experiencing it and those around them perceive it. It is

    language that diminishes the vastly different connections within

    a mind into specific, scientific categories. It is language that

    reinforces a hierarchical power binary between doctor and

    patient, between healthy and unhealthy, and between sane and

    insane. It is language that alienates the individual from their

    own experiences through complicated medical terms and

    categorization. But it is also language that validates an

    experience like anxiety, which tells the individual over and

    over again of its unreality.

    "* Novascotia.ca. .

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    Accessible Solutions for Mental Instability

    For myself, traditional psychoanalytic therapy and medication

    were not successful in managing my mental instabilities. I find

    support from relationships and friendships in my life,

    connecting with individuals in person and over the internet who

    are experiencing similar things

    to me, visualization and

    grounding techniques, and most of

    all craft processes to be

    extremely helpful in managing and

    encouraging my mental health.

    Crafting, especially embroidery,

    has been paramount in assisting

    in my mental wellness. The

    feelings that come with being

    creative and productive, no matter how small or fleeting, are

    instrumental in my maintaining a healthy balance with my mental

    space.

    Figure 1: Embroidery by Amy Chandler,2016. Photograph courtesy of the

    author.

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    Throughout the course of this

    project, I have embroidered

    fervently. I have also recorded my

    thoughts and feelings on a blog

    online 30 as I craft, as a resource to

    draw upon to support my hypothesis of

    the creative process aiding in mental

    wellness. I created four pieces of

    embroidery art (see Fig. 1, Fig. 2,

    Fig. 3, and Fig. 4) that representing my technique of

    visualization to manage anxiety. In some instances, and for

    myself, anxiety is the hyperactivity of negative thoughts. I use

    visualization to try to focus my

    thoughts on a specific mental

    image or motion. I picture my

    heart in my chest, then I encase

    it in a wooden box (see Fig. 1).

    Then I place that box in an

    outlandishly pink heart case,

    encrusted and bejeweled with

    crystals (see Fig. 2). That

    heart-shaped case gets enclosed

    within a stainless steel

    #+ www.craftingcomposure.tumblr.com

    Figure 2: Embroidery by AmyChandler, 2016. Photographcourtesy of the author.

    Figure 3: Embroidery by Amy Chandler,2016. Photograph courtesy of the author.

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    spherical case that is terrifyingly sharp with spikes and studs

    (see Fig. 3). That weapon of a case is then set into a deep

    purple sphere, and encircled with gold bands connecting into an

    all-seeing, protective eye (see Fig. 4). This process continues,

    continually enclosing, with focus on minute visual details of

    each case and box until I begin to feel the pending anxiety

    attack recede. This aspect of my coping techniques paired well

    with the process of embroidery I explored in my practice-based

    research. Embroidery allows close focus on a manual process. It

    slows the mind because it slows the hands as well.

    Through my research I also was able to conclude that for me,

    embroidery also assisted in the

    process of grounding. “Grounding”

    is a process where an individual

    focuses on their physical

    environment to situate themselves

    in reality and hopefully away

    from an anxiety attack. Grounding

    is often practiced by thinking of

    “find five things you can see,

    four things you can touch, three

    things you can hear, etc” or

    something along those lines. I find embroidery, and other craft

    practices helpful in grounding techniques, as it requires focus

    Figure 4: Embroidery by Amy Chandler,2016. Photograph courtesy of the author.

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    on a specific physical activity that engages the mind in

    creativity and repetitive action.

    Another way embroidery has been helpful in reducing mental

    instability is in its social aspects. Stitching is usually quite

    portable and small. I often carry mine in a Ziploc bag wherever

    I go, and can bring it out whenever I feel uncomfortable. There

    are also many stitching bees, where one can go to embroider or

    craft and chat with other folks. Earlier this semester, I had

    the good fortune of being asked to co-host the Mental Health

    Collective here at NSCAD University to talk about this project

    and to discuss solutions for mental instability through craft

    processes. We had a small, very casual gathering, where we all

    crafted and had an open discussion about techniques we used in

    our own lives to reduce mental instability. Many folks at the

    meeting found the repetitive nature of crafting helpful in

    reducing anxiety or mental instability. It was noted that visual

    progress was very important in this process. For instance,

    sanding of metals in jewelry-making techniques is a repetitive

    task, but takes a vastly long time to produce any visual

    progress. Embroidery on the other hand has the potential to

    produce that visual satisfaction rather quickly in comparison.

    I am not the first to connect craft practices with mental

    wellness. Mary E. Black, a weaver and occupational therapist,

    was heavily invested in craft’s ability to assist in many

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    aspects of personal wellness. Black was born in 1895 in

    Nantucket Island, Massachusetts. 31 She was educated in Wolfville,

    Nova Scotia and graduated from the Acadia Ladies’ Seminary in

    1913. 32 In 1919, Black traveled to Montreal, where she took a

    course on occupational therapy, run by the federal government.

    This course trained aides on techniques used to help soldiers

    returning from war to reintegrate into society. The techniques

    taught at this course were “basketry, book-binding, block-

    printing, bead-work, designing, fancy-work, raffia, stenciling,

    toy-making, woodcarving and weaving”. 33 It was taught by the

    federal government in 1919 that craft processes aide the mental

    stability of soldiers returning from the horrors of war. Black

    went on to work as an occupational therapist for many years, and

    advocated for craft processes in connection with mental wellness

    for the rest of her life. Black provided advice, resources, and

    demonstrations on craftwork, with emphasis on helping people

    help themselves. Black taught individuals how to make simple and

    useful objects for their own lives, or as a product to sell to

    make a living. She advocated for quality craftsmanship and good

    use of colours to assist in marketability. Black’s contribution

    to the use of crafts to aide in mental stability is vastly

    #$ Catherine Brackley. “Mary E. Black.” Canadian Association of OccupationalTherapists, Web.#" Ibid. ## Ward Occupational Aide Graduation Certificate, 1919. NS Archives, referenceno: MG 1 Vol. 2876 12

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    important and I would not be approaching this project in the

    same way if it were not for her research and community practice

    beginning nearly a century ago.

    Many of the folks I interviewed over e-mail agreed with my

    findings that craft/creative processes aided in managing their

    mental instabilities. Nicole said:

    I find drawing mandalas to be an extremely calming and meditativeprocess. If I feel anxious/depressed, I feel relieved after

    completing or even starting a new drawing. The feelings that come with being productive and creative are essential to my mentalhealth. 34

    Another interviewee, Leanne, had similar things to say:

    The process of weaving is very calming to me. Every part of it,the planning, setting up your warp, threading the loom, whichtakes almost as much time as weaving the actual cloth. It takes alot of patience but for me it is meditative because I don’t have

    to think about what I am doing, my body just does it… The creativetranscendent-like zone you get into when making something is verypeaceful. When you are able to enter that realm its very freeingand puts other life worries on hold. If you have things on your

    mind it is good to get it out through some form of medium. 35

    Most of the interviews included responses with the word

    “meditative” in them. I also find craft processes, especially

    embroidery to be meditative. One may argue that having a mental

    silence while embroidering can only foster more anxious

    thoughts, and of course for some individuals that may occur. In

    my personal experience, and seemingly in others according to the

    #% Nicole MacIntyre. E-mail interview, 1 Mar. 2016. #& Leanne Hansen. E-mail interview, 4 Mar. 2016.

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    interview responses, the mental silence that accompanies close

    focus on a physical process is meditative in the base sense of

    the word. Meditation is the eschewing of thoughts, the clearing

    of the mind of both negative and positive thoughts, allowing an

    individual to just be in the moment, without pressure. This is

    how embroidery serves me in coping with my mental instabilities.

    Concluding Thoughts

    Through this project, I hope to have shown that embroidery

    and similar repetitive creative processes can have a positive

    effect on some individuals suffering from mental instability.

    This technique is in no way meant to be a universal treatment

    for all forms of mental unwellness.

    The history of the treatment and perception of mental

    instability within society has shown that a multitude of

    approaches and techniques have been used. The methods that have

    proven useful have stayed, and the ones that were useless,

    sexist, and/or abusive have been actively eradicated or have

    died out. Throughout the course of history many different

    methods of coping with mental illness have been suggested and

    utilized and I hope my research will add to that discourse.

    There is a large accepted myth that in contemporary

    society, professional psychoanalytical treatment and/or

    medication are one of the only universal “cures” or treatments

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    for mental instabilities. The practice-based research and

    primary interviews have definitively shown that the feelings an

    individual experiences during and after the creative act

    actively counter mental instability. Some interviewees and

    myself often set out to create something for the express purpose

    of calming our mental spaces.

    Finding accessible, free, and flexible techniques for

    coping with mental instability is of paramount importance.

    Techniques like grounding, visualization, and socialization all

    work hand in hand with craft processes, as my own practice-based

    research and interviews have shown. The treatment of mentally

    unwell individuals by large systematic institutions is not

    useful for all, although they’d like you to think their “cure”

    is universal. It is my opinion that mental instability does not

    need a cure, only healthy management. I hope through this

    research (and the continuance of it) I have started to develop a

    possible way of managing mental instability. Embroidery and

    other craft processes have been immeasurably helpful in my

    mental wellbeing, and I will be continuing to use it as an

    effective weapon against depression and anxiety.

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    "&

    Hansen, Leanne. E-mail interview. 4 Mar. 2016.

    Kim, Woochang. E-mail interview. 25 Feb. 2016.

    Koplos, Janet, and Bruce Metcalf. Makers: A History of AmericanStudio Craft . Chapel Hill: U of North Carolina, 2010. Print.

    MacIntyre, Nicole. E-mail interview. 1 Mar. 2016.

    Marchessault, Janine, and Kim Sawchuk. Wild Science: ReadingFeminism, Medicine, and the Media . London: Routledge, 2000.Print.

    McFadden, David Revere. Pricked: Extreme Embroidery . New York:Museum of Arts & Design, 2007. Print.

    McNiff, Shaun. Art Heals: How Creativity Cures the Soul . Boston:Shambhala, 2004. Print.

    Moran, James E. “History of Madness and Mental Illness: A ShortHistory of Care and Treatment in Canada.” History of Madness .N.p., 2009. Web. 29 Mar. 2016. .

    Mosher, Sarah. Personal interview. 16 Nov. 2015.

    Parker, Rozsika. The Subversive Stitch: Embroidery and theMaking of the Feminine . London: Women’s, 1984. Print.

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