cruising to the dry tortugas - trawler live …...about us † full time live aboard for 7 years on...
TRANSCRIPT
D R Y T O R T U G A SC R U I S I N G T O T H E
Randy & Kim Kalisik
• INTRODUCTION About us and about Blue Turtle, our trawler
• ABOUT THE DRY TORTUGAS History, facts, things to do, and park rules
• PRE-TRIP Provisioning and pre-trip checklist
• GETTING THERE Cruising considerations and navigating there
• ARRIVING Anchoring, checking in (boat permits/fees) and sooty terns
• SNORKELING & DIVING Equipment check, snorkel & dive sites and getting the most out of it
• FISHING Park & state regulations, fishing spots and type of fish caught
O V E R V I E W
I N T R O D U C T I O N
A B O U T U S• Full time live aboard for 7 years on Fort
Myers Beach with our son, Corey and dog, Sophie
• Both work full time - Kim owns a web design business, Randy is a manufacturer’s rep for industrial products
• Cruising around southwest Florida, the Keys and Dry Tortugas
• Very active in fishing, diving, snorkeling, wake boarding and other water sports
• Randy is a U.S.C.G. Licensed Master Captain
• Blog about living aboard and cruising at www.blueturtletrawler.com
A B O U T B L U E T U R T L E
• 1974 40’ DeFever Passagemaker Trawler
• Single screw (185hp Perkins) with bow and stern thrusters
• Cruising speed 6.5 - 7.5 knots
• 2 gallons per hour fuel consumption
• Full displacement hull
• 200 gallons water capacity
• 500 gallon fuel capacity
• 40 gallon holding tank
• 9 foot dinghy with 15 hp motor
A B O U T T H E D R Y T O R T U G A S
W H Y C R U I S E T O T H E D R Y T O R T U G A S ?• It’s one of the least visited parks in the U.S.
National Park Service • Uncrowded, isolated and unspoiled preserve
lacking any commercialism • Intriguing history and abundant wildlife • Reefs are in great shape and perfect for
snorkeling and diving
THINGS TO DO: • Explore Fort Jefferson • Camping • Fishing • Kayaking/paddle sports • Swimming, snorkeling
and diving • Wildlife viewing / bird
watching • Explore Loggerhead
Key • Watch the sun rise and
set on the Gulf of Mexico
• Stargazing - No light pollution
L O C A T I O N• Small group of islands located 70 miles west of Key West and 90
miles north of Cuba at the northwest entrance to the Florida Straits
7 I S L A N D S T O T A L• Loggerhead Key, Garden Key, Bush Key, Long Key, Hospital Key, Middle Key, and
East Key
• Garden Key and Loggerhead Key can be visited year-round
• Bush Key is seasonally closed during the sooty tern nesting season
• Originally, there were 11 islands; 4 of them were reclaimed by the sea by the 1930’s
A B O U T T H E P A R K• Called “Dry” Tortugas
because of the absence of fresh water on the island
• Designated as a National Monument in 1935 and became a National Park in 1992. Dry Tortugas Park is over 64,000 acres, but only 1% is dry land
• One of the least visited parks in the U.S. National Park System with just over 70,000 visits in 2016
• Accessible only by sea plane, ferry (out of Key West) or private vessel • Ferry visitors are at the fort from 10:30 am - 3pm
• Tortugas coral reefs are the end of the third largest reef in the world, the Florida Reef system - ending within a few miles of the Gulf Stream where the Gulf of Mexico, Atlantic Ocean, and the Caribbean Sea collide
• Tropical bird breeding grounds - Over 299 species including the Sooty Tern, Brown Noddy, Frigate birds, Cormorants, Pelicans and more.
• Since the Dry Tortugas islands are closer to Cuba than Miami, Cuban migrants attempt to land here on homemade boats called “chugs”
Credit: Jennifer Macaulay via Flickr
P A R K R U L E S• Pets are allowed on Garden Key
but not inside the fort • Operation of drones is prohibited
within the park • Jet skis are prohibited in the park • Kayaks, canoes and small dinghys
may be beached in designated areas
• Collecting of lobsters and Spearfishing is prohibited
• Fishing is permitted on Garden Key in specified areas and outside the Research Natural Area (refer to park map)
• Pack in, pack out park – all campers, visitors and boaters must take out what they brought in
T O T A L I S O L A T I O N• No available fresh water – i.e. “Dry” Tortugas
• No restaurants or shops of any kind; only lodging facilities is a primitive camp ground
• No cell or WiFi service – Park Ranger office posts printed 3-day weather forecasts
• Park recommends campers bring two gallons of water per person per day as well as extra 2 days of food
H I S T O R Y• Named Las Tortugas (The Turtles) in 1513 by
Spanish explorer Ponce de León
• Later labeled “Dry Tortugas” on mariner charts to indicate it offered no fresh water
• Became a major shipping channel in the 1800s connecting the Atlantic Ocean waters with the Gulf of Mexico
• Known as a “ship trap” because of the shallow waters, swift currents and hurricanes causing numerous wrecks (250 documented)
• “Wrecking” - the salvage operation industry quickly grew and became the main industry that contributed to the building of Key West
• U.S. realized that if they occupied and fortified this area, the Dry Tortugas could be the “advance post” for the defense of the Gulf Coast
• Construction began on Fort Jefferson in 1846
G A R D E N K E Y A N D F O R T J E F F E R S O N• Garden Key is the second largest island, about 14 acres in size
• Home to Fort Jefferson, park headquarters, visitor center, campgrounds and great snorkeling areas
• Fort Jefferson was the largest and most sophisticated of the “Third System” coastal forts that were being built following the War of 1812
• It was designed as a six-sided, four-tiered building, capable of mounting 420 guns • Even though construction spanned over 30 years, the fort was never finished and shot
was never fired
• It is considered the largest brick masonry structure in the Western Hemisphere
• Made up of 16 Million bricks and has over 2,000 brick arches
• Two different types of brick were used in construction: Northern red clay brick (top) which didn’t hold up well in the humid subtropical environment and southern brick from near Pensacola, FL which was harder and more durable (bottom)
Though never finished, Fort Jefferson served many purposes through the years:
• During the Civil War, it remained in Union hands and was used in their campaign to blockade Southern shipping
• Military prison mainly for Union deserters but also for famous civilian prisoner Dr. Samuel Mudd, who had been convicted for conspiracy in the death of President Lincoln.
• After being abandoned by the Army, it was later used as a a quarantine station for Marine Hospital Service and coaling station for war ships
• 6 Rodman cannons and 4 Parrott rifled cannons in the fort are some of the rarest examples of 19th Century seacoast artillery in existence.
• Unlike other forts in the states, Fort Jefferson has little in the way of railings and enclosures. Watch your footing when walking on the top perimeter.
Traverse Magazine
Powder MagazineHot Shot Furnace
L O G G E R H E A D K E Y• Located 3 miles from Garden Key, it is the largest of the Dry Tortugas islands. • Amazing snorkeling and diving at nearby reefs and wreck - Little Africa and
Windjammer Wreck
• The Dry Tortugas Light was constructed in 1856 to replace the lighthouse on top of Fort Jefferson which proved to be too short, too dim, and too far away from other reefs.
• Both lighthouses were the only lights on the Gulf coast throughout the American Civil War
• Cutting-edge marine laboratory located there that conducted some of the the most significant scientific research of the Dry Tortugas from 1905 to 1939
• One of the scientific contributions include the first underwater black and white and color photography.
P R E - T R I P
P R O V I S I O N I N G• The Park recommends 2 gallons of water per
person per day and an extra 2 days of food in case of bad weather
• If you have adequate freezer and storage space, stock up on non-perishable foods (Canned goods, frozen meat, dry goods like rice and pasta)
• To save space and fit more food, remove items from boxes and large cartons and repack in plastic
• If you have a small fridge, keep beverages in a separate cooler for the first couple days and move them into the refrigerator as space is made available
• Water-conservation tips: washing dishes in salt water followed by fresh water rinse; using salt water and a bucket to rinse your decks
• Carry extra water by purchasing jerry cans or bladders to fill with fresh water as well as using solar showers
P R E - T R I P C H E C K L I S T• Check running lights (if cruising at night)
• Have bottom and running gear dove and cleaned
• Check engine maintenance
• Bring spare fuel filters and impellers
• Bring extra oil, transmission oil and coolant
• Fill fuel and water
• Pump holding tank
• Check diving and snorkeling equipment
Keep in mind that there are no stores to buy food, water, spare parts, etc.
G E T T I N G T H E R E
C R U I S I N G C O N S I D E R A T I O N S
• Located in the Gulf of Mexico at the end of the Florida Keys, about 70 miles west of Key West
• Check the long term weather forecast for winds, hurricanes, or fronts to make sure you have an optimal weather window
• Summer has afternoon thunderstorms and more predictable weather patterns
• Winter has cold fronts which can bring high wind and seas
• Departing or returning to Key West - cruise on north or south side of islands depending on wind and swell direction
Marquesas Key & Rebecca Shoal
C R U I S I N G S C E N A R I O S• Our trip from Fort Myers to the Dry Tortugas was 120 miles and took 18 hours • Cruising 1-day vs. 3-days (depending on your location) • We anchored out in a pass the night before to make it easier and quicker to
leave in the early a.m.
A R R I V I N G
A N C H O R I N G• Vessels anchor at the
Tortugas Anchorage or Bird Key Anchorage
• Anchorage is 20-30’ deep and coarse sandy bottom. Scope 5-7 times depth.
• We have an anchor designed for a 50’ boat and 100 feet of chain.
• It’s common seeing boats drag anchor
• Keep 16 on at night as rangers hail when a boat is adrift
C H E C K I N G I N
• Use the designated area for leaving your dinghy on shore
• The entrance fee for the park is $10.00 per visitor. This fee covers entrance to the park for 7 days. You may stay a maximum of 14 days at one time.
• A free-of-charge boat permit must be obtained and can be acquired from park rangers on site or contact VHF Marine Radio Channel 16
A N O T E A B O U T S O O T Y T E R N S• About 80,000 Sooty Terns nest
annually on Bush Key near the anchorage
• Bush Key is closed seasonally to the public because of the nesting ground (February - September)
• The birds can present a messy problem for boaters anchoring in the area with their droppings
• We have used an osprey kite the last couple of years and it seemed to keep them away quite well
S N O R K E L I N G A N D D I V I N G
E Q U I P M E N T C H E C K
• Test snorkel and dive gear in a pool to make sure everything works
• Bring spare equipment if you have it — things break and there are no local dive shops to visit for repairs
• Bring enough dive tanks for your trip since there’s no where to get air fills
S N O R K E L I N G S I T E S• Garden Key
• Little Africa
• Windjammer Wreck
• Brick Wreck
GARDEN KEY • The closest snorkeling spot is around the fort moat wall and coal dock ruins. You can night
snorkel around the mote as well.
LITTLE AFRICA • Located on the west side of Loggerhead Key is a huge shallow reef perfect for snorkeling.
3 WAYS TO GET TO LITTLE AFRICA 1. Dinghy to dinghy access area on calm day and walk across the island 2. Grab mooring ball on east side and ding to shore and walk across 3. Grab mooring ball on west side of island and snorkel to area
WINDJAMMER WRECK • Located less than a mile southwest of Loggerhead Key • In 1907 a 261 ft., 3-masted vessel named Avanti struck the Loggerhead reef after a navigational
error and sank • Wreck lies in 18-21 feet of water and makes a great snorkel or dive. Watch the current, it can be
swift at times.
A V A N T IW I N D J A M M E R W R E C K
BRICK WRECK • Sometime between 1857 and 1861 a flat bottom steamboat carrying bricks for the fort
ran aground • Lies in 4-6 feet of water. There is a very strong current there • No mooring ball, must anchor
D I V I N G S I T E S• Off Ramp • The Maze
• Davis Rock
• Texas Rock
OFF RAMP • Isolated reef outcroppings with staghorn coral on the western side • Depths 25 feet and shallower
THE MAZE • Coral caverns, swim-through pinnacles and straight up vertical relief • Depths 20-60 feet
DAVIS ROCK • Large crevices run through the middle of this pinnacle reef • Depths 20-45 feet
TEXAS ROCK • Large crevices, caves, swim-through, cracks, pinnacles and lots of
vertical relief • Depths 20-60 feet
GETTING THE MOST OUT OF SCUBA DIVING AND CONSERVING AIR
• We dove only half tanks in order to conserve air and get to see more spots
• We would dive a half tank in the a.m. and then stop at Little Africa on the way back to snorkel for a long as we wanted
• Little Africa is one of the best snorkel spots we’ve seen. It is 3 miles from anchorage and on a calm day is a very easy dinghy trip (on plane). Make sure to bring a hand-held VHF radio.
F I S H I N G
F I S H I N G• Fishing is permitted within 1 mile
of Garden Key
• 1 mile is marked by yellow buoys
• Spearfishing is not permitted anywhere in the park boundaries
• Follow Florida Gulf of Mexico fishing regulations
• We fished by dinghy and it was helpful to have a snorkel ready
• Yellowtail snapper, mutton snapper, grouper, hogfish, bonefish, tarpon, shark
• We caught snapper with a jig
• From Garden Key, you can only fish on the ferry dock • From the ferry dock we saw tarpon and mangrove snapper
T O R T U G A S B A N K• Located about
11 miles from Garden Key
• Spearfishing is allowed since it lies outside of the park boundaries
• If you catch a fish, you should call it in to the ranger station before entering park boundaries
• The reef is marked by several mooring balls • Depths are 40’ to 110’ deep
Q & AFOR BLOG POSTS AND LINKS ABOUT
THE DRY TORTUGAS, VISIT: www.blueturtletrawler.com/dry-tortugas
PASSAGEMAKER ARTICLE: Tortugas Bound! Exploring Florida's
last piece of wilderness www.passagemaker.com/destinations/
tortugas-bound
Presented by:Randy and Kim Kalisik
Q & AFOR BLOG POSTS AND LINKS ABOUT
THE DRY TORTUGAS, VISIT: www.blueturtletrawler.com/dry-tortugas
PASSAGEMAKER ARTICLE: Tortugas Bound! Exploring Florida's
last piece of wilderness www.passagemaker.com/destinations/
tortugas-bound
Presented by:Randy and Kim Kalisik