crystal poison. - society of cosmetic...
TRANSCRIPT
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Crystal Poison.
Crystal Poisons and their effect on wax crystallzation .
California SCC – May 2014
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Crystal Poison
What is a CRYSTAL POISON?
Crystal Poison is any compound that retards the crystal formation of a compound that would normally exist in a crystalline state at a given condition.
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Crystal Poison
Everday examples of crystal poisons are: Anti-freeze Proteins (AFP’s) which are found in fish that live
in extremely cold conditions. Without AFP’s liquid and fats in these fish would solidify. AFP’s are being looked at for use in foods such as:
meats, vegetables (tomato, cucumbers etc)
Glycols in aqueous based systems for suppressing freezing point of water
Butylene Glycol in emulsions for F/T stability
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Crystallization
Crystallization involves two discreet steps:
Nucleation
Crystal Growth
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Nucleation
There are two types of nucleation Homogeneous
Uniform relatively pure substances
Nucleation is random and spontaneous
Lowering of temp will initiate nucleation
Heterogeneous Usually impure materials
Needs initiator Wall of a beaker etc
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Nucleation
For nucleation to take place, a state of supersaturation has to exist
Molecules aggregate and clusters are formed
Once a cluster is formed, one of two things happen
Cluster becomes unstable and re-dissolve
Cluster reaches a critical size, become stable and a nucleus is formed
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Nucleation
Nucleus Molecules
Aggregates
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Crystal Growth
Once clusters reach a critical size, and an arrangement in a defined periodic manner is reached, a crystal is achieved.
The crystal then becomes the convergence point for successive layers –like an onion
Growth is influenced by several factors Temp Pressure Surface tension Shear/agitation
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Crystal Growth
Once crystal growth begins, two distinct steps are involved:
Formation of an amorphous aggregate of soft wax
And a progression to a more ordered hard wax phase
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Crystal formation
Interlocking crystals to form micro-structure
Nucleus
interlocking crystal
Interlocking crystal
Interlocking crystal
Interlocking Crystal
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Crystal Poison
So what is a CRYSTAL POISON?
Crystal Poison is any compound(s) that retards crystal formation of a compound that would normally exist in a crystalline state at a given condition.
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Crystal Poison – Mode Action
Crystal Poisons have a few modes of action:
Retardation of nucleation
Initiation of multiple nucleation sites
Retardation in the growth of successive layers
Decrease in the crystal size
Steric hindrance
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Crystal Poisons – Steric Hindrance
How does steric hindrance work: They lower the cohesive energy which is the
driving force of the ordering transformation When solution temp approaches the cloud point,
wax molecules start to gather together to form wax aggregates
Wax aggregates incorporate wax inhibitors (crystal poison).
Once the inhibitor (Crystal Poison) is incorporated into wax aggregates, a perturbation occurs which retards the transformation of soft wax (micro-clusters) to hard wax (macro-clusters)
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Crystal Poisons – Steric Hindrance
Steric hinderance to crystallization
CH3-CH2-CH2-CH2-CH2-CH2-CH2-CH2-CH2-CH2-CH2-CH2-CH2-CH2-CH2-CH2-CH2-COOH
Stearic Acid (C18H36O2)
CH2-CH2-CH2–CH2-CH2-CH2-CH2-CH2-CH2-CH2-CH2-CH2-CH2-CH2-CH2-CH2-COOH
CH3
Isostearic Acid(C18H36O2)
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Crystal Poison – General Structure
Comb-type structure
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Crystal Poisons – Typical Structures
Typical structure of molecules that sterically hinder crystallization:
Block Polymer with comb structure EVA
Some polyglyceryl esters
Metal soaps
Aluminum
Alkyl Phosphate
Lecithin
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Crystal Poison
Steric interference to crystal deposition
Nucleus
interlocking crystal
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Crystal Poison -Ecstasy
Iron Oxides 3.5
D&C Red #7 Ca Lake 2.0
Titanium Dioxide 4.0
Oils 30.0
Beeswax 5.0
Candelilla 7.0
Carnauba 6.0
Water 15.0
Glycerin 1.0
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Crystal Poison – Pain
D&C Yellow #5 Al Lake 3.5
D&C Red #7 Ca Lake 2.0
Titanium Dioxide 4.0
Oils 30.0
Beeswax 5.0
Candelilla 7.0
Carnauba 6.0
Water 15.0
Glycerine 1.0
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Crystal Poison – science is logical
D&C Yellow #5 Al Lake 3.5
D&C Red #7 Ca Lake 2.0
Titanium Dioxide 4.0
Oils 30.0
Behenyl Beeswax 5.0
Cetearyl Candelillate 7.0
Carnauba 6.0
Water 15.0
Glycerin 1.0
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Crystal Poison - unmasked
What happened??
Al(OH)3 + Fatty Acids Al-soap
AL
>130C
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Utilizing Crystal Poison in Formulations
Crystal poisons can be very useful in formulations, for example:
High conc of waxes in mascaras, without high viscosity, which leads to greater build on the lashes.
Liquid lip products with high conc of waxes
High SPF values