More Latitude and Individuality in Style* ThU Spring Than for Many year*.

EASTER FASHIONS IN NEW-YORK SHOPS. PARIS HATS WORN AT ABSURD ANGLES.LATEST IDEAS ISMILLINERYAND GOWNS GLEANED

FROM BEST ART CENTRES.THEY TILT FAR TO OSE SIDE OR OVER THE FORE-

HEAD—PARISIANS LIKE CAPES.

A far simpler garment, useful for the races. Is ofsuede colored cl->th. trimmed with velvet and braidin the same color, and motives of English,embroid-ery. The coat is the shawl shape cut. with thesleeves taken in the fulness of the stuff. Over theshoulders ia a trimming of points of English, em-broidery, separated by lines of braid, the braiddescending below the embroidery and ending tn

little cocarrt.''. This trimming: Is used not only «n

the front of the coat, but over the fulness of th«sleeves, and has an appearance of slightly draping

them on the inside of the arm. The tnsidea andbottom of the coat are trimmed with points ofpanne put on with English embroidery and braid.

The njipearnno* or the short cape Is hardly a sur-prise, for it has been In the air so long. The capes

are of two sorts, a mere little fichu arrangement

ami a longer parment, which falls well below the-hips. A mod.i for a simple spring cape of tillssort is cut

—the shawl fashion, smooth over th«

shoulders and full over the hips. ItIs held into

the waistline in the back by a patte. and the sides,

which round away from the throat to considerable

depth In the back, are cut out in scallops and laid

over a scalloped tionnce of the same material. Tneedge of all the scallops Is finished with ruffles andnarrow ribbon, and \u25a0 lace collar about the shoulders

ia finished In th<* same way. Another garment ef

the shawl shape variety Is c-ut with a \u25a0hort«r *•**and very lon* points tn front. The one

*****seems as popular as the other.

Early spring wraps are Tony garments on moreor less conventional line*, long straight folds andhigh big sleeves. Hast of them, are mada withoutcollars, although one or two manteau, makershave tried the effect of something approaching theoldtime Medici collar. In the lons mantles thereare a good many made with side pleats, as in thecase of a mantle of whit» cloth, trimmed withsilver and blue embroidery. There are a. deeppleated yoke and a high, rolling collar of lace,embroidered in silver and blue, with points of theembrotd^ry running down over the yoke. At thebottom of the yak*, which extends over the topsof the shoves. 13 a band of embroidery and there*l of the torment is pleated under this. Thebig sleeves ill Into cuffs, consisting of a narrowband of embroidery, heading: a shaped piece ofem-broidered lace. The fashionable color for eveningmrntle3 seems to be apple green, whether the ma-terial be cloth, satin or velvet, and satin In thisshs.de is particularly effective.

Asmart example of a garment inthis material Iscut in the shape of a lons cape falling1 in. straight.simple folds from the shoulders. About the neckmd down the front is a stole shaped yoke of lacebordered by lines of green velvet, and Just at theshoulders the satin 13 shirred to the yoke In ascant puff with double heads. The bottom of thegarment is trimmed with Incrustations of lace, andthe garment itself ia daintily lined with white satinand tiny Valenciennes ruffles.

One of the loveliest of the many pets whichdec-orate a showcase in a hirge fhop is made ofcrystal

—&. sort of soft mull. There are three

pieces to the set—

nightgown, chemise and

flrawers—

and they are elaborately trimmed withValencienn.es insertion and lace, square me-dallions and the finest of pin tucks. Of course,every siitch in this set is taken by hand. Thenightgown is made with low neck and with6le*eves above the elbow, composed of the crystal

er-d insertion, about half and half, finished withiiruffle bt the goods, edged with lace. A wideruffle <if the same with applique medallions ison the drawers, and pale blue ribbon is —ju

through a delicate beading in all three pieces.

French nainsook makts exceedingly dainty

underr-'eatri and is used to a great extent inexpensive lingerie, combined with either lacee>r embroider}' or with both. One lovely night-gown made of thts Fhe-r material has a yokeof bli!,l embroider}' • which" comes down in apanel on eithf-r side of the from. The opening

Js under tLe embroidered panel on the left side.On another model

—low neck, this is, whereaj

the otht-r had a medium high neck—

\'a!en-cifnn^s lace and blind embroidery are com-bined. The very daintiest iif all chemises, it isBate to ray. are the regular French embroideredgarments, with designs worked by hand alongthe front. Taese chemises range in price fromc couple of dollars each far up into the doublellgures, according to the quantity and qualitycf work in them. Tiny flowers form a popularmotif, and French knots also ar<? frequentlyt,sed. In one iriodel recently purchased by alover of beautiful lingerie embroidered forget-xr.e-nots and nppUque la<e bowknots mad? upthe df-curatJon, and lovely, indeed, they weretogether. Like nearly all French chemises, thistransect was noi linished off below the kneesby a ruffle.

A style of dranfi s proving a, pood seller hasa wide ruffle, edg*-d with handmade button-huhng. This is the- only attempt at de-eoration.and perhaps it is for this very reason that theseK^rinc-nts a»e so well liked.

In the petticoat line the display In percaleend nainsook includes the usual lace and em-broidery decorations. A novelty

—and a lovely

ti:d useful one—

is the China silk petticoat.«rtucb conies la black and Jn all the light colors.It is made with a. wide flounce, worked withEnglish «*mbreildery and l»eaded with live rowscf Rhlrrias.

Ifthe question should be asked of ten women.•What do you consider the most necessarilyflainty part of your wardrobe to-day?" they

vould answer in unison. "The underwear, ofcourse." A glimpse at the underwear depart-ment of any chop can only emphasize this•pinion, for the display of the filmy garments, asaeparate pieces and as Bets, is beautiful enough

to make the little green god of jealousy leap to

the hearts and eyes of even strong- mindedT.omen.

The likingfor long lines seems to continue, andmany of the spring gowns are made with Ions:tunic overskirta There is also a return of theVolrro without coattails. as was the original fash-ion. A novelty is a bolero cut off just above th<*waistline In the back with a long. s»thWk< pattefalling almost to the bottom of the skirt. Theprincipal (or.tuns of the new bolero that (lifTe-ren-

tiate it from the one formerly worn ai the sup-pression of the blouse and frr.nt an.i the close.lines of the bunt.

Even the redir.^ote. which has been worn all win-ter, is not entirely dtacarded A recent model shownby a well known tailor is in bronze brown cloth.The new feature is a soaped belt, stitched all over.The skirts are untrimmecl. save for a stitched bandat the bottom. The top opens with a shawl-like

revers cf black ?atin. having a little underfoid ofwhite llr.cn. The chemisette la completely coveredviiti, tiny rachings or Valenciennes lace, ar.d thereis a small back satin tie about the throat. Th«sleeve is a small jarigot. ending ju*tbelow the elbowin a turn-up cuff finish i with an sdfca cf blacksatin and trimmed with a. single large b'ac!; but-ton. .

Some of the hats worn at a recent wedding arewell worth description, although their principal

feature itemed always to be the odd way theyperched on the head. One boat shaped hat ofbrown erin had the trent much Indented, and wasworn almost over the nose. There was no trimming

save a :tree bunch of yellow and salmon pink roseswith brownish leaves, which was placed on oneside. Another hat was a plateau shape of bluevelvet, lifted up high In the back with a mas 3ofbrown tull> bows. On the front of the hat. at thevery e^ge of the brim, was a large bow of browntulle, holding a sweeping blue feather.

Brown is conspicuous in the spring millinery.

The bridesmaids* hats at a recent fashionable wed-flins were of brown tulle, trimmed with bunches ofpa!* \u0084-reen or pale pink feathers, whichever

matched the costumes. There was a touch ofbrown on the gowns (three of which were pink

and three green), in the shape of a small brown

tulle sash and sma!> bow on th« bust.In the way of trimmimngr for millinery, more

feathers are used than i.; usually the case at thistime of the year, and besides ostrich feathers thereare a lot of waving cogue plumes. A novelty iswhat Is called the "natural" ostrich plume, whichis far lass curled and graceful in shape than thecustomary product.

Paris. April 1

The new shapes in hats have become so aeneralthat one no longer wandw at th*-ir ajbawrditles.

Siim* of th» little round shapes are worn M far onthe side of xho head that they exi>os,-> almo--half of the hair. Another, the saucer sh..Wi r" way over the forehead, and is held up in the

With bunches of feathers or a great deal offlower trimming.

IP TO DATE FOOTWEAR.

PARISIAN FANCIES AS ILLUSTRATED AT THE JOHN WAXAMAKEB STORE.

CO3V/EB LACES USED.As a rule, the fragile laces eeom to "have the

call", for summer wear. Cobwebby delicacy I**urely more in keeping with tho summer Ideal efunfailingdelicacy and purity. Still, for those wholike stinu'ihlnK mere substantial there la the Kns-Itsh eyetrt work, which la Iror.clad and even morvfatblvnablc than ever.

is of shell pink in the midd c. gradually shadingto a rich red at the top and bottom Other girdlesof ihe sarr.e style are made of ribbon that alter-nates dark and light. A favorite decoration forwhite Liberty jatfal -ird!.-^ Is tiny chiffon lloweraIn white of in some color that hi otherwise intri>-duced on the gown: ami on the heavy white satinfour-inch belts (plain bands they arc without anychirring) silk embroidery Is frequently seen. Uut-t«rtties, lrisV-s. roses— these ar.il dozens of otherdesigns are met with—ar.il the tackles attachedto those belts are really works of art. Most ofthem are gilded stiver. Inlaid with semi-preciousstones— turquoise bntricee. jade, barotjue pearls,aquamarines, and olivines.

White linen belts, to complete the summer girl\u25a0white outfit, come both plain and embroidered.The undecorated belts are finished with either aKiltor gun metal buckle and the embruldored beltswhich are hand worked for the most part Ii someflower design, have more elaborate buckles ofgilded silver often ornamented with stones.

Evening scarfs should not be neglecteJ In anymention of this department In which they nliny

pieces play an Important part. The majority ofthe daintiest ones are of whit. ULorty *atm si-ut-

tered ov«?r with flowers, red poppies, roses andchrysanthemums among them. bometime-s onecomes across a crepe scarf nnd the-s-v are excep-tionally lovt-iy. for thoy are daintily and artistical-ly embroidered. One of them. wWch p'.ca.ses theeve of all holders. Is of white crepe c.V rhinowith Its eada buttonholed in pale pink silk amiwith pink iris embroidered at frequent Intervalsover the scarf. \u0084 .•

White and Tan Favorite Colors-Silk Stocking Protectors.

First i-monK the season's novelties In woman a

hosiery stand the half and three-quarter length

hose, which mnst of the ling dealers now have

in "stuck. The half lrnjthmodels are not entirely

new. strictly speokteff. for \u25a0 few shops had them

liisi year, but they were not generally known andconsequently had only a small sale. This season,

however, the dealers say, women, and especially

atblctlc women, are going to buy them, while.

their sisters who want to be up to date but havenot the courage to take up the ha!f hose willresort to tho three-quarter length. White and tan

art- the favorite colors In these styles, as tn allhosiery for toe spring u.ntf summer. Another colorwhich undoubtedjy willbe wcro a great deal withtan blueliers b delft blue. Women are generallypleased with thK as the blue lir>»n shirt wairtsuit Is a feature of s>o many summer ward-robes. With tan footwear any color hosiery. Infact, mcy be put on. thus giving young womenan opportunity to match stockings and gown*.Of course, this has t*en done for a long timewith light eveniii? iowm, but now comes therbancc for harmony with the simple shtrt waistsuit. Fur th<- domiter t!ue and preen check mo-h'lir* i»ue m.iy buy hosferv of the same colors andp.itf.ri*.u.h w»ll as »>IM bine : i.vi.-red la green.

IMifthread hosiery i.-» the best seller to sprtns.for «h»* fwwoa that it is as thin as and ass* •*-pensive than silk. Clockwork and embroidery at*the favorite de orations. Judging by taa rapiditywith whkh they are selllns, and stockier* with

THREE QUARTER HOSE.

COLLARS AND BELTS.

New and Fetching Touches forSpring Toilets.

Artistic fashions inneckwear may be said to have

reached their height this sprtng. for it Is the opin-

ion of many an experienced shopper that the array

In the stores has never before been half so fascinat-

ing, and that the future can hardly invent daintier

conceits in this line.Valenciennes lace, which trims so many summer

neckpieces, is nowhere used to better effect than In

oat of the new frilled collars. The frills, of the

pleated lace, form a 6-lnc!i tab down the front, and

make- an edging at both top and bottom for a

row of delicately embroidered medallions, Whichform the collar proper. Light blue crepe de chine

Is run loosely through thes« medallions, heightening

the general dainty effect. . '< : '».;O »

Crepe de chine Is the material brought into re-„.ic'ti,.M for a. variety of made scarfs that are at-

tracting favorable attention in some of the New-York shops. These scarfs are edged with a frillof Valenciennes lace, and are adjusted to the neckby a shirred slipknot ol the crepe. One reason forHit-popularity of tnese pieces is their comfort, forthey may be put on U6 loose and ••'\u25a0-:\u25a0 •'\u25a0\u25a0\u25a0 one Ue-tures.

Among the stocks to be worn with white shirt-waists is a Jaunty m.>.!»!. with a white duckcollar and colored si!k stock. h»-M by tiny buttons..so ifmay bo removed when the white collar mustgo to the laundr)- •''•«• necKpiece alter this fash-ion has the stock of bright Roman piaid silk, madein a four-in-hand, and another baa a black bowtie fastened to the white linen by two narrowlinen bands stitched with bJaek.

Chemisettes and undersleeves arc proving an im-portant factor of the spring sales, and are shownin a large variety of dainty patterns. Perhaps th*-UKiHt popular are too** of Valenciennes lace andembroidery, or !i:• tucks. but Renaissance, pointile Rauze and puint de gene follow close In the racefor favor.

Bell fashions lntiTOPt women quit* *\u25a0 much asdo neck fashions, for the reason that th-

-two

together constitute the flnlshtnK touches to ,i

frock. For white summer dresses the shaded silkand satin girdles willof a certainty have a steadysale alt spring. The six-Inch belt is th.- favoritewidth and clusters of shirring are the principalmode rif trimmlna One of those airdles recentlybounht by * •'\u25a0 h«ifant» for -i »lnu)-i \u25a0"

- 'l'> Iro^k

The Favored Shape of the Hour—

andGauze Creations.

The vogue of the great ostrich feather fan haspassed and In Its place has come dainty littlecreations of gauze and Bilk, painted with Dres-den figures and delicate flowers, or adorned withshining spangles of silver and gold.Itis true that these bits of loveliness supported

on pearl or ivory sticks willstir up hardly a per-ceptible breeze to cool the heated dancer, but theymaJie one of the prettiest accessories to a har.d-somA toilet.

Then fans, it must be remembered, are alwaysin demand for cabinet collections, and it is forthis purpose that those with ivory sticks aregenerally used, as they are too brittle for realservice. "White, as ever, is the most called forcolor in fans, and an attempt to match a gown isseldom made.

Renaissance lace makes lovely fans, dallywhen used In connection with the iridescent look-ing pearl sticks and seldom, has further decora-tion than these. At times, though, tiny gold orsilver upangles are caught to the lace.

In shupe the pompadour fans may be sai<l tohold first place at present. They have a decidedupward curve to the middle, instead of the gentlerounding of the oldtlme Cans.

For dance favors, the little flower fans haveb«*en much used, and pretty. indeed, they are.These fans are for the moat part of paper, en-tirely covered In the front with cloth flowers, pinkrop'*. violets, white chrysanthemums, apple blos-soms, or red poppier.

THE BRIDGE COATEE.A smart little garment, known as the "bridge

coat«.-e" Is made up in spot Led ecru net. The fullsleeve, with double frill, is trimmed with Valen-

ciennes lace, which, on the large pointed collar, Iscombined with embroidery and lace insertion. 1 »*•

*ky chiffon rose* are suspended from .Miinta Of tnecollar. • '

h'xm

THE POMPADOUR FAN.

favorites in this style In the weight class,and come with two. three or f., irholes, laced upwith wide silk strings or ribbons. In the lighterweight Orfords and Bluchers there are patentleather and kid In black, white, dark brown, tanand champagne. In the evening slipper one findsdozens of colors besides the standard black andwhite, which, with the hosiery, must snatch mylady's gowns.

Nor.- of the summer footwear, with the excep-tion cf the daintiest slippers, has the true Frenchheel. The Cuban heel rules this season, and thank-ful Indeed are the majority of women, for few ofthem can balance gracefully on the slender curvedsticks which are supposed to make the foot lookpretty and small.

Another aid to bfauty. however, may be seen inth* present style of footwear, and that is the nar-rowing of the toe. The bulldog toe. the shapewhich was affected to such an extent by nearly allwomen several years ago. has gone, never to re-turn, says many a shoe dealer, and in its place hascome the daintier, more feminine, narrow toe.

HAIE ORNAMENTS.

Gold and Jewel Decked Combs and PinsBarbaric Jewelry.

Hack hair combs In either tortoise shell or am-ber, mounted with gold inlaid with semi-preciousstones, are a great feature of the jewelry count-ers in most of the large department stores. Thestones may be aquarine, turquoise, matrix,amethyst. topaz, or oilvine, and they range insize from a small J>va to a robin's egg. If email,they art- Bet in the to;. In a row, or in some prettydesign, and if large, no more than two or threeare,J,lsel

-and sometimes only one—right in themiddle of Hie comb top.

With any of these elaborately decorated backcombs Dlain side •.•omts of the same tort of hel]an- worn, but with the back combs on which sold*s the only trimming side combs to match .shouldbi used. These mounts art- perhaps moat ire-quently seen in polished gold, but the prettiestare a combination <i two shades— the dull and thegreenish gold. Sometimes they are put on solidor In bands, and again they are In scroll or Dowerdt-fie:ns.

In lar?;e pins for the hair, fashion is going backto a period 10 years or more ago, when wownwho wore their hair high stack in one shell pin.adorned at the top with gold or silver filigree work.

Nn-Kohains of the finest nold links, connectingtiny stones, are displayed everywhere now andare really marvels of daintiness. Then there arechains which come vndt-r the class of "barbaricjewelry." from which* depeud large turquoisematric.s, amethyst* or pearls. The Venetian; beadnecklaces; of smooth, round, graduated beads nr«->.•\u25a0till in favor, principally for the reason that theywill match dearly any shade at sown.

J:i tiie line of brooches, rlii:i'-;t(.nes arc met.

with at every turn, and they are also much u.s<M inthe little bar pins that hold turnover collars andci:fTr. in place. Another pretty form of pin is ihethin gold bar. set with one small stone. Smallerclasp pins that come in sets are especially prettyin the shape of tiny buckles.

Cuban Heel Supersedes French Heel—Bulldog Toe Is Out.Now is the time of year when high shoes are

thrown out or put on boot trees to ?pend the sum-tuet months Inthe darkest corner of the closet, tobe brought out next fall for rainy day wear. NowIs the time also when women crowd the shoe storefcenches. clamoring for "the latest thing in foot-*»ear" and taking anything that th» tired clerkdeclares the height of tutWon.

Ifa »om*ii should take a day off to spend lafront of all the large choc stores. Inspecting thewindow delays, ishfc would Inform the family Infcer lecture that night that every mothers daugh-ter cf them must purchase a pair of walkingpumps at once, if the aspires to be at all In style.These pumps come In black patent leather, Russiac&lfand whit* canvas or linen, and are a sort ofcompromise between a dainty slipper and a com-mon sens* low shoe. They have the Cuban heel•r.d medium weight sole, and are cut out like a•.Upper, \u25a0»»\u25a0}-. the instep <»;.., A flat mader.bbon bow of the same- color as the pump i* theenly decoration.

*-*T •\u25a0-

The walking pump, it Is seen, is of real use for\u25a0 eml-dree* wear, but It should never be allowed tofillthe place of tne Oxford and the Blucber. Thes*,alone are correct to be worn with simple everyCay woollen walking ekirts.

Of the two the lilucher Is undoubtedly the morepopular, although It differs from Oxford onlyn>uiar. tJthough it differs fromla savin* an uoen vamp. The blu'-k and tan mm

NEW-YORK DAILY TRIBUNE, SUNDAY. APRIL 9. 1905.

PART VI.EIGHT PAGES.

SPRING ANDSUMMER FASHIONa