UNIFORMOCTOBER

“Style is a way to say who you are without having to speak”Rachel Zoe

Uniform magazine celebrates style rather than trends. While the catwalks of London, Paris, Milan and New York showed fabulous pieces, we’re show-ing you fabulous style straight from the wardrobes of real women. Mixing luxe pieces from both high-street and designers in order to create wearable and chic outfits that will stand the test of time.

It’s finally the time of the year every style conscious individual looks forward to; when the weather is warm enough to wear those silk harem pants you’ve been dying to wear all summer but not so cold you need to team them with a woolly sock and Burberry trench. October is the perfect month to update your look, there is no longer any need for your Melissa Odabash kaftans but your Reiss knitwear is looking a bit too ‘worn’ for this season.

Here at uniform we’ve contributed with the best stylists to provide you with enough inspiration to see you through to November.

This issue we’ve interviewed some game changers in the blogging world, quizzing them on their per-sonal style and influences. As well as a sneaky peak into their fabulous wardrobes, and their must-have pieces for Autumn/Winter 2012.

Your essential guide on what to wear this season and how to work it into your everyday Uniform.

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EDITOR’S LETTER

TREND

TREND

TREND

OPINION: WHATS MINE IS YOURS

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TREND: AUTUMN FOOTWEAR

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WARDROBE ENVY: LOUISE HAY

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FASHION: FEMME BY NIGHT

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OPINION: ADD TO BAG

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FASHION:THE NEW ROCK CHIC

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FOUR WAYS:STATEMENT TROUSERS

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TREND:TEXTURES

47

FASHION:INVESTMENT PIECES

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WARDROBE ENVY:NICOLA KIRKBRIDGE

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TREND:TEES & NECKLACES

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CONTENT

A-Z:FASHION & STYLE

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5

WHATS MINE IS YOURSThat magical moment when you are let loose into his closet for the first time. An array of oversized (to you, anyway) t-shirts, jeans and sweaters all ready for you to tuck and belt

however your heart desires.

Boy meets girl. They fall in love. Girls moves in and steals all boys’ clothes. It’s the classic love story of the twenty first century minus a few unsavoury details of drunken text messages and burnt romantic dinners. As the nights get colder and the increase of ‘boyfriend fit’ clothing seeming inevitable, it seems the logical thing to do is to grab yourself a partner and throw out that old blanket you’ve been sleeping with every night. I’m just going to go ahead and say the statement nobody dares to say: Boy-friends are an investment. Yes, there’s the upkeep of wax appointment and making sacrifices to your fabulous single life but just think about the money you’ll save on oversized knits, statement tee’s and the key trend of the season, boyfriend jeans. Of course it is not as easily done as it is said. Finding the perfect man who treats you like you deserve could take a life time. However, sourcing a male companion who dresses as chic as you and will turn a blind eye to your borrowing habits may be a little easier. So what if his apartment is a hell hole and he prefers to sound of his Xbox to your voice, his old Smith’s tee goes perfectly with your brand new Alexander Wang leather leggings. Of course, another advantage of ‘boyfriend borrowing’ is that it’s hardly likely that your new companion is going to want to borrow back.

Luckily, your studded Louboutins and Marant sweater are only at risk of sneaky best friends with a key to your flat.

It’s not just a case of unisex dressing; American Apparel have been pioneering that trend for years. It seems Androgyny is the new word on everyone’s lips this season, with male models walking for designers and the most beautiful of women wearing a sharp suit more often that a Marchesa gown. From the pages of magazines to the inspiration blogs on the Internet it seems cross-dressing is everywhere. However, there is something ultimately sexy about an exquisitely beautiful woman dressed in a skilfully tailored tuxedo. The high-street has adapted to this trend, supplying co-ordinated blazers, shorts and trousers to feed our need.The increase of ‘couple dressing’ has also become apparent. Whilst meeting a girlfriend for lunch in London’s Covent Garden it occurred to me that we were surrounded by well-dressed couples on every angle. Each effortlessly colour co-ordinated, perfectly groomed and undeniably in love. If that isn’t enough to put you off your Starbucks vanilla latte I don’t know what is. Thus began my obses-sion with stylish couples; from Olivia Palermo and model beau Johannes Huebl to Kourtney Kardashian and her baby-daddy Scott Disick. Each individual flawlessly chic in their own right then combined with their partnet to produce a fashion power couple.Both the high-street and designers are contributing to this craze by creating garments so androgynous that they could be worn by either sex. Paul Smith has designed brogues for women emblazed with ‘Men Only’ on the sole, whilst high-street stores American Apparel and Uniqlo have been supplying unisex clothing for years.

It seems that fashion is influencing more than just our wardrobes.

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TREND............................................

AUTUMN FOOTWEAR

Previous page:Heels by Zara £59.99

This page:Socks by Topshop £3.50

Boots by Topshop £90.00

This page:Heels by Steve Madden £90.00

WARDROBE ENVY

LOUISE HAYLouise Hay shows us how to perfect the notorious ‘smart-casual’ look. A mix of perfectly tailored denim, designer tees and statement jackets, Louise’s look is a Uniform favourite.

Her Tumblr is the perfect destination to find beautiful fashion imagery and inspiration, as well as to lust over her vast collection of Celine and Hermes.

www.louhayhay.tumblr.com

I started my tumblr when... A girlfriend introduced me to The Sartorialist a couple years ago and so began my love affair with street style. In my last year of law school I got

seriously addicted. It got to the point where I had thousands of images saved onto my computer and my boyfriend told me I needed somewhere to put them or my computer

was going to crash! He suggested I started a blog as a way to share what inspired me.

I skimp on... Things I think are just going to be a trend that will be over by next season. For those sorts of things I go straight to Zara or the other high street brands. There’s nothing worse than dropping serious coin on something you can’t wear six months

later.

I love to splurge on... handbags! Bags are my kryptonite and I’m a serious hoarder. I can’t part with any of them. I get that from my mum, she’s got the most incredible col-

lection of Fendi Baguettes and Hermes Birkins. Oh and skin care! I never skimp on skin care!

My style icons is... Christine Centenera! She can do no wrong in my eyes. I also love Carine Roitfeld, Miroslava Duma, Taylor Tomasi Hill, Kate Moss and Blake Lively.

But to be honest with you the women I draw the most inspiration from are my fellow bloggers! I’m a big fan of Chiara Ferragni (The Blonde Salad), Soraya Bakhtiar, Leandra Medine (The Man Repeller), and Montarna McDonald (The Intersection Paddington). I

check their blogs daily!

I could never part with me... My Helmut Lang leather pants! They feel like butter! I have two pairs that are exactly the same and that are basically on rotation. They just go

with everything and are so easy to dress up or down.

My must have purchase... Do I have to chose only one?! There are so many things I am lusting over at the moment. Probably the Proenza Schouler PS11 in black… I know it

has been around for a while now but I need something small but practical that I can use everyday. A rose gold Rolex Daytona wouldn’t go astray either… but let’s be real I’m not

purchasing that anytime soon.

My Dad always says... there’s no such thing as good luck, only hard work. I am the ulti-mate procrastinator so I try and remember that whenever I feel like giving up, crossing

my fingers and hoping for the best.

I couldn’t live without... My family, boyfriend and friends… and my phone.

Photographs courtesy of Louise

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WARDROBE ENVY

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The

new

rock

chic

An old favourite; seen in Fall collections year after year. However, here at Uniform were thinking more Kim Kardashian at a rock concert rather than Courtney Love, keeping it chic and subtle for 2012.

Previous page:Shirt by Gap £29.96

Skirt by Markus Lupfer for Asos Black £100.00

Necklace by Asos £18.00Shoes by Zara £69.99

This page:Shoes by Zara £69.99

Shirt by Amplified £25.99Skirt by Topshop £36.00Brogues by Zara £69.99Watch by Micheal Kors £160.00

Dress by Topshop £42.00Gilet by Acne £480

Brogues by Zara £69.99

Next Page:Tee by Amplified £24.99Shorts by One Teaspoon £59.99Brogues by Topshop £69.99

ADD TO BAGAddiction doesn’t always come in the form of drugs and alcohol, discovers Daisy Brown.

Hello my name is Daisy and I am a shopaholic. Yes, you’ve heard it all before - you’ve seen the movie, read the book and probably in some point in your life had the tacky t-shirt. But I am talking some deep rooted shit, a childhood spent joining my mother to alcoholics anonymous meetings has taught me that addiction is real and you will die. Okay, so maybe you won’t die from an over-active credit card but believe me there is serious consequences. The unrivalled joy of finding that piece you’ve been yearning for all season on sale and in your size can really get the heart beating and the palms sweaty.

Oniomania; the noun used to describe an obsessive or uncontrollable urge to buy things. More of a problem that affects my life than a noun I’d say, but each to their own.

The belief that material goods will solve ones problems may seem erratic and unconvincing but it is true to say that on a day when I feel particularly stressed or down, endorphins are released from the simple act of walking into a store. Harvey Nichols tends to be the weapon of choice when all is not going well and my glass is quite frankly, half empty. The aged man dressed in a crisp grey suit, complete with gold trim and matching hat holds the doors open to a world of serenity. The perfect temperature and faint music amongst a sea of luxurious goods is like a lullaby, enchanting and exciting me to a point that I begin to

OPINION

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forget about the looming pressures from various aspects of my mundane life. I become engulfed in the affluent smells of leather and Tom Ford perfumes, the only thing that goes through my mind is how fabulous my life would be if this store was my dressing room, floor after floor of everything I’ve ever dreamed of. My hands caress the variety of fabrics, appreciating craftsmanship from the greats: McQueen, Givenchy, Louboutin and all the rest. Of course this is my dream world; no purchases are made just appreciation and aspiration.

The gratification of handing over money in exchange for a full carrier bag more often than not comes from the high

street, I am in my twenties after all and this isn’t Gossip Girl.

However a girl can dream and I have often become susceptible to shopping cart syndrome, the wonderful thirty minutes when any woman can own whatever she desires. Indeed, one of my favourite hobbies when the bank balance is low or the aftermath of last night’s cocktails is too much to bear. Shopping cart syndrome is the indulgent and childish act of ‘adding to basket’ anything and everything you long for with no consideration for the grand total. Sequestering things you know you can’t have, before the page is refreshed and they are no longer yours.Online shopping seems to be my greatest downfall. Being able to order whatev-er my heart desires in the comfort of my loungewear, Ben & Jerry’s in one hand, credit card in the other is instant gratification at its finest. There is no need to battle the bad weather outside, when Topshop is offering free next day delivery and a new designer collaboration. Indeed, money doesn’t feel real when it’s spent at the touch of a button. The guilt of handing over a substantial amount of cash is diminished and replaced by the excitement and anticipation of a parcel on its way to you. The simple act of inputting your magic card details where re-quired, can very easily result in an Alexander Wang cashmere sweater slipping effortlessly through your letterbox just a few days later. Nestled in tissue paper and tied up with ribbons, Christmas can come every week if you want it to.Checking the ‘New In’ section of numerous online shops seems to be my obses-sive compulsive disorder, I find myself religiously checking numerous websites bookmarked onto my laptop daily. Hours on end spent gorging on new season pieces, styling them in my head and lavishing every voucher and discount code to make them mine. Letting my fingers do all the hard work, resulting in my Micheal Kors python purse a little less plump in the aftermath. But of course, it’s not my fault. E-tailers are constantly bombarding innocent humans with free delivery and flash sales.

Subsequently causing an increase in heart-rate and an irrational order on a website you’ve never heard of, but of course you needed a Jil Sander paper bag, it was 20% off!

I’m not embarrassed to say I know by heart the signature style of the majority of high-street stores and could guess the brand of an item without looking at the label. I constantly have an extensive wish list of products I just need to have, forever waiting until I have the funds to attain them. No matter how occupied my social calendar, my brain will always be overshadowed by the thought of when my next purchase will be. Calculating what needs to be sacrificed this month in order to get my hands on a piece I’ve been lusting after for weeks.An adolescence spent working in retail did nothing to harbour my addiction.

OPINION

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In fact I believe it to have had the opposite effect and fuelled my need to pur-chase things by supplying me with a disposable income and lengthy shifts day-dreaming of what to purchase on my lunch break. ‘A pure white angora sweater or buttery leather ankle boots?’ was always a question more unanswerable than what career I wanted to pursue when I finally decided to grow up. Shifts spent day-dreaming about infinite credit limits do nothing for the soul. In fact they fester. Day dreaming turns into desperation and desperation quickly turns into depression.We all know wanting something you can’t have is notoriously difficult but when that ‘thing’ happens to be a pair of Helmut Lang leather leggings with a £730 price tag you know you’re in trouble. Then begins the grieving process; Stage one: Denial. ‘I don’t even want them’ you tell yourself despite your hand greed-ily reaching for the hanger and your feet walking themselves to the fitting room to slip your legs tentatively into the supple leather fabric. Next comes the anger. You find yourself angry at the fact that they fit so god damn well, angry at Lang for producing such stunning pieces for Fall and angry at yourself for maxing out your credit card, 5 days after it slipped through your door on that glorious Mon-day morning. The bargaining stage begins rears its ugly head as you convince yourself that you yes, you can survive on a diet of Sainsbury’s baked beans and the dust from behind your refrigerator until the long awaited, and much antici-pated last Friday of the month comes back around. Stage four; Depression.

Depression is the realization that no, you will not be walk-ing out of Selfridges with that iconic yellow carrier bag

proudly swinging by your side, declaring to the world that you have just made a purchase.

Studies show that addiction is hereditary, but of course susceptibility does not mean inevitability. My grandfather and great-grandfather on my mother’s side were alcoholics and the disease was passed onto her. Growing up there were concerns surrounding me and my sister when we began to be exposed to drugs and alcohol in our teenage years. However, alcohol is not where my addiction lies. It is true to say that I have an addictive personality; I find it difficult to source the will-power to just have one of something when I could have more. Infatuation and obsession comes easily to me, more often than not over a pair of J Brand skinny jeans than a bottle of crisp chardonnay, but the intensity of my need is sometimes overwhelming. I have often found myself spending the last of my income on a statement blazer and having to make excuses why I cannot attend a friend’s birthday dinner. Telling myself this jacket will better my life, it will make me look taller, skinnier and wealthier. Justifying the purchase as an investment; after all friends have birthdays every year and this jacket is an almost identical replica of the Isabel Marant that was shown in Paris earlier this year.

I live in a dream world. A world where Jaffa Cakes don’t have calories, money isn’t real and the mountains of debt I’m accumulating isn’t either. Debt doesn’t affect me and that minus sign on my bank balance is just a smudge on the screen. In the words of my mother, the problem is not yet so large that it de-mands a drastic change in lifestyle however, accepting the fact that you have a problem is the first stage in recovery.

I suppose this is my acceptance.

OPINION

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Fem

me

by n

ight

Co-ordinated suits teamed with subtle embellishment and a low heel is the perfect day-to-night ensemble. Luxury dressing at its finest, Jessica Robertson models the chic-est pieces for Fall.

White blazer by Zara £59.99Studded blouse by Zara £34.99Patterned trousers by Topshop £28Beaded jacket by Balmain £2350Silk jumpsuit by Aqua £120Silk blazer by Zara £59.99Patterned shirt by River Island £32.00Trim shorts by Asos £28.00Pointed courts by Kurt Geiger £110

STATEMENT TROUSERSFOUR WAYS

TOPSHOP HOUNDSTOOTH LEGGINGS - £28.00H&M FINE WOOL SWEATER £34.99 KURT GEIGER

SANDAL £110.00

It is important to remember that when wearing a statement trouser to keep the rest of the ensemble simple and chic. Teaming a pattern with a fine knit with subtle embellish-

ment makes the outfit channel Olivia Palermo rather than a 90’s teenager. The high-street have a range of statement

pieces to instantly update your wardrobe for less this fall, try Topshop, Zara and H&M Trend for cheap and chic pick me

ups.

THE PRINTED LEGGING

TOPSHOP LEATHER TROUSERS - £32.00CELINE TSHIRT £140.00 ZARA TUXEDO BLAZER

£49.99 TOPSHOP POINTED HEEL £55.00

Leather trousers is a must-have piece for Fall, whether it be Helmut Lang or Topshop everybody needs at least one pair in their wardrobe. Complimented with oversized tee’s or statement knits, they are the perfect base for any outfit.

From day to night, the humble leather trouser can transform any outfit. A definite investment if you want a high-quality pair to last you years rather than months. Dont just limit

yourself to black, luxe burgundy can also work well.

THE LEATHER TROUSER

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ZARA BOYFRIEND JEAN - £39.99ACNE ANGORA JUMPER £170.00 H&M NECKLACE

£9.99 TOPSHOP BOOTIES £55.00

The ‘boyfriend’ jean is set to take over from the loyal skinny jeans, sitting comfortably in your wardrobe alongside your American Apparel leggings and Wildfox tee’s. The jean can be dressed up for Saturday with a low heel and a fine knit,

and then dressed back down for Sunday afternoons by pair-ing the denim with an old pair of converse and a Breton tee.

From Zara to J Brand, there is a ‘boyfriend’ jean for every budget this Fall.

THE BOYFRIEND JEAN

FOUR WAYS

Leather, boyfriend, hounds-tooth and paisley. Now there are four words you thought you’d never hear in a sentence, but let me introduce you to the new season… Trousers have always been a fall staple, whether it be skinny denim or printed tailoring – This is your essential guide to styling the four key styles this Autumn.

H&M PRINTED SILK TROUSER - £35.00H&M CHIFFON BLOUSE £29.99 LOUBOUTIN HEELED

PUMP £375.00

Be brave. The printed silk trouser is the most statement piece for this season. A definite head-turner these trousers

will attract attention from fashion admirers globally. Perfect to wear to fashion week or formal events, making a change from the usual little black dress uniform. There is no way

to ‘dress down’ such a statement, and why would you want to? Team them with chiffon blouses, Mawi accessories and a

low-heeled shoe to make sure you can last the night.

THE SILK PANT

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TREND............................................

TEXTURES

The Investment Pieces for FallHere are the key pieces you will lust after this season, start saving now as these pieces will

seriously empty your bank account. If you are going to spend the money on a designer piece, make sure its a Uniform pick.

(the) Chanel 2.55 Bag

No introduction necessary, the Chanel quilted bag always has been and always will be a classic.

Beige Chanel 2.55 handbag £2588

(the) Balmain Jacket

Catching the eye of many-a fashionista during Paris Fash-ion Week, Balmain’s intricately beaded pieces are the perfect

investment for 2013.

Beaded Balmain Jacket £2350

(the) Michael Kors PurseClassic black is always a great investment, lasting the years and staying chic with gold hardware. Michael Kors’ elegant designs are perfect to pop inside your new Chanel.

Black leather wallet by Michael Kors £110

(the) Acne Biker

Invest in this Acne Biker to keep the cold out this Fall. Rabbit fur and biker zips are the perfect combination to

keep your wardrobe casual yet stylish

Acne ‘Rita’ Fur Lined Biker £1300

WARDROBE ENVY

NICOLA KIRKBRIDGENicola Claire is the epitome of a ‘chic grunge’ mixing abstract prints with tough details;

she works a pair of shorts like no-one else. With legs that go on forever and a wardrobe to make anyone jealous, her personal sense of style is timeless. We caught up with Nicola to

quiz her on her style influences and her new career in styling.www.nicola-claire.blogspot.com

I started my blog because... I studied a module at Uni called Fashion Communication where we learnt about Fashion Blogs so this is what initially triggered my interest in blogging. I also thought it would be great to keep a log of my style to look back on in

the future while hopefully inspiring others!

I would say my move to Australia has influenced my style.. In the way that there are different weather considerations to make and that the seasons are different but also In the way that my lifestyle has changed. Im definitely more practical with my footwear

choices over here as I take more public transport! I would say that I have different inspi-ration channels over here too.

I draw inspiration from... The catwalk, especially for changes in silhouettes, colour or structuring for the season. But I also get inspiration from fashion icons and publica-

tions as well as other bloggers.

I am styling for a new online retailer in Melbourne... when I researched the company I felt that the kind of products they stock are a perfect fit for my personal style. So when

I met with the directors we really clicked and I ended up getting the job!

I usually tend to skimp on... dresses or one occasion items as I like to follow the cost per wear logic.

I like to splurge on... a good basic tee/ vest or jeans and must have shoes and bags! Oh and definitely a good leather jacket.

My style icons are... Kate Moss, The Olsen twins and Elin Kling. They are probably my top three.

I have a lot of pairs of shoes that I could never throw away... And sentimental items like my AllSaints studded leather jacket my dad got me for my 21st birthday.

My next must-have purchase would have to be... Most of the items from the company I am currently Styling for!

The best piece of advice iv been given is...Never give up on your dreams (as cheesy as it sounds)

I couldnt live without... My friends and family!

Photographs courtesy of Nicola

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WARDROBE ENVY

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TREND............................................

MOTIF TEE’S&

STATEMENT NECKLACES

Previous page:Tshirt by Celine £150

Necklace by H&M - £9.99This page:

Tshirt by Converse £25.00Necklace by Mawi £390

This page:Tshirt by H&M £9.99Necklace by Topshop £20.00

This page:Tshirt by Topshop £28

Necklace by Bijoux Heart £420

FASHION A-Z

A Forgot online shopping, the new way to shop is straight from your iPad via Apps, Uniform Favourites include Zara & Karl Lagerfeld.

B Blogs of the fashion kind. Style inspiration from the people who wear it best, you! Check out Song of Style, Angelica Blick & Fashion Zine for some serious fashion envy.

C Designer Collaborations. The rumoured collaboration between Givency and H&M has got us seriously excited for 2013, and the rest of the high-street to follow suit.

D Denim. An underrated must-have in every womans wardrobe. Whether it be a trusted skinny, a patterned den-im or a trendy boyfriend fit; there’s a pair for everyone.

E East London - The perfect spot to capture some Street Style photo-graphs & Instagram inspiration on the weekend.

F Chiara Ferragni, otherwise known as The Blonde Salad. Proving to be internationally successful for both her shoe-line and fashion blog - www.theblondsalad.com

G Glitter manicures; Add a little child like fun to your nails with this lastest beauty trend. An easy and simple way to glam up a casual outfit in less than 30 seconds.

H Hashtag’s. The easiest way to keep up with the fash-pack during Fashion Week. Join in with the #LFW action or keep up to date with outfit of the day tags.

I is for Instagram. The new twitter when it comes to celebrity gossip from the likes of Kim Kardashian, Beyonce and Victoria Beckham. Follow us too, @uniform

J Jewellry; seriously under-stated pieces that will make or break an amazing outfit. Mawi London is a Uniform favourite for statement necklaces this season.

K The Kardashians. Watch Keeping Up with The Kardashian’s on e! for hilarious one-liners, envious style and the latest from our new favourite celebrity couple: ‘Kimye’.

L “Fashion is the armour to survive the reality of everyday life. I don’t think you could do away with it” Bill Cunningham.

M Mix & Match. Co-ordinating suits are our favourite alternative to a cocktail dress. Perfect to be dressed up or down, and a fashionable way to do evening-wear.

A-Z GUIDE TO

FASHION & STYLE

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FASHION A-Z

X The XX were the soundtrack to the majority of shows at London Fashion Week. Their new album Coexist is perfect for relaxing Sunday afternoons.

U Umbrellas: Because chic coats don’t have hoods. We do live in England after-all therefore they are a necessity for any and every woman’s handbag.

N Neutrals are the perfect colours to tone down a printed piece or an all black outfit. T by Alexander Wang provides beautiful basics in a variety of luxurious colours.

O Olivia Palermo. Always effortlessly chic from head to toe. Our ultimate style-crush, need we say more?

P Prints; A key trend for Autumn/Win-ter that Uniform definately approves of. A flash of print in your accessories of an eye-catching suit, our favourites include baroque and hounds-tooth.

Q The classic quilted leather started with Chanel and has filtered it’s way down to the high-street embellishing sweaters and coats for Fall.

R Rolex. The classic watch worn by Men and Women for generations. A classic investment that’s iconic design and exquisite style will never fade.

S Stylists; the seriously under-rated fashion hero’s behind great design-ers and stunning editorials. From the new & upcoming to the firmly established, Uniform praises you!

T is for Topshop. Now internationally established and highly successful, Topshop is the high-street holy grail from fashionista’s all over the globe.Fans include everyone from Kourtney Kardashian to Kate Moss.

Y Yves Saint Laurent recently changed their name but we just can’t seem to drop the ‘Yves’, sorry! We’ve got quite attached to lusting after their signitutre tribute’s.

Z Zara - A high-street hero providing the very best shoes, bags and coats for Fall. Chic yet affordable pieces that will make you feel like you’ve spent less than you really have, genius!

W Wear what you love and love what you wear. Wearability rather than trendability. At Uniform we believe that when in-vesting in clothing its more logical to buy something you love rather than what others love.

V Vintage - Only acceptable if its Chanel.

www.uniformmagazine.com

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UNIFORM MAGAZINE

Style rather than trends. Dont get dressed without it.