1. 1. Damask
2. 2. What is Damask? Damask is a style of weaving. It is characterized by a background of lustrous fabric against which raised designs appear. Damask is closely associated with luxury. The weave of damask is very dense, resulting in a substantial cloth. The designs are often multicoloured, causing them to stand out clearly against the satin background of the fabric.
3. 3. History. Damask is an Arabic name. In the West, it was first known as diaspron or diaper, the term used in Constantinople. Damasks used one of the five basic weaving techniques of the Byzantine and Islamic weaving centres of the early Middle Ages and derive their name from the city of Damascus, which at the time was a large city active in both trading and manufacture. Chinese emperors were wearing damask fabric as early as the fifth century. Damasks were scarce after the ninth century outside of Islamic Spain, but were revived in some places in the thirteenth century. The word "damask" is first seen in a Western European language in the mid-14th century in French. By the fourteenth century, damasks were being woven on draw looms in Italy.
4. 4. From the fourteenth to the sixteenth century, most damasks were woven in a single colour, with a glossy warp-faced satin pattern against a duller ground. Two-colour damasks had contrasting colour warps and wefts, and polychrome damasks added gold and other metallic threads or additional colours as supplemental brocading wefts. Medieval damasks were usually woven in silk, but wool and linen damasks were also woven. In modern times the Italians and Dutch first made damask; and Europe was supplied, as late as seventeenth century, from Italy alone, chiefly from Genoa. But the French soon imitated it, and now surpass the Italians. Damask is made in great quantities in Germany, chiefly in Upper Lusatia. Dunfermline is the chief seat of the manufacture of Damask linen in Scotland, and Lisburn and Ardoyne in Ireland.
5. 5. Yarns Used Silk is extensively used both as warp and filling, in the finest grades of silk damask. Tram silk is the name given to reel silk warp yarn. Spun silk is also used for these fabrics. Other fibres used in making damask fabrics are Linen, rayon, cotton, synthetics, wool, and worsteds.
6. 6. Weaves Used Although in the majority of damask fabrics nothing but satin twill weaves are employed (principally 5 and 8 har- ness), very good effects are sometimes obtained by combining other weaves with the satin twills. In Single damask, one warp thread goes over four and under one weft thread while weaving. In the double damask, one warp thread goes over seven or even more, and under one weft thread.
7. 7. Satin is a weave that typically has a glossy surface and a dull back. It is a warp-dominated weaving technique that forms a minimum number of interlacing in a fabric. If a fabric is formed with a satin weave using filament fibers such as silk, nylon, or polyester, the corresponding fabric is termed a satin, although some definitions insist that the fabric be made from silk. Sateen produces the sheen and softer feel through the use of a different structure in the weaving process. The sateen structure is four over, one under, placing the most threads on the surface, making it extremely soft, though slightly less durable than other weaves. Standard non-sateen weaves use a one-over, one-under structure. Satin and Sateen
8. 8. The Play of Light on Damask Fabrics Damask relies on the play of light to give dimension to the pattern which is subtle and rich at the same time. The satin formation in a damask fabric creates areas of motifs rather than one large expanse of lustrous sheen as seen in a regular plain satin. The pattern is created when light falls on the damask fabric. The light reflects off areas of visible arranged fabric warp threads which look shiny against visible weft threads which look dull within the weave. The triangular cross section of the silk yarn, increases its surface area. This helps in reflection of light.
9. 9. Uses of Damask Fabric 1. Damask Curtain Damask curtain can be included in our home furnishing items. The background of damask fabric is lustrous and has the raised designs of different thread that make the damask curtain more appealing and perfect for upholstery.
10. 10. 2. Damask Tablecloth Damask tablecloth is elegant and can be used for formal functions, dinners and all other sorts of get together.
11. 11. 3. Damask Bedding Subtle and high-toned damask bedding is a sure example of class. Damask bedding comes in pink damask fabric, black damask fabric, in damask silk fabric, cotton damask and many more. Cotton damask fabric is particularly famous to make damask bedding.
12. 12. Motifs Used Most of the designs used in damasks today are copies of those woven centuries ago in Italy, Spain and France. Though damask weaving was not an English art, the English decorators of the 18th century used large quantities of Italian damasks, both for furniture coverings and as hangings for walls.
13. 13. In France, the period of Louis XVI a period of dignified luxury developed many beautiful symmetrical designs, often with stripe effects combined with flowers and leaves. Most of the Italian weaves now reproduced hark back to Renaissance motifs, wherein the pomegranate, the apple of love of medieval times, surrounded by flowers and leaves, often forms part of the pattern. Tones of color are found in some of these the Italian fabrics violet and crimson, or an old gold that has the Cinquecento charm.
14. 14. While the best designs of damasks are derived from precious bits preserved in museums, there are also patterns inspired by the life of today. Delicate peach, jade or other hues, never used by the old Italian and French damask weavers, make these modern weaves distinctive.
15. 15. Making of Damask Methods of weaving damask : Draw loom by the use of jacquard loom by the use of compound harness twill jacquard
16. 16. The Jacquard machine may be defined as a piece of mechanism placed above a loom for the purpose raising warp in any possible order a previously defined pattern may indicate. The framework is of iron, strongly built in order that the various parts may stand the strain to which they are subjected during the process of weaving. The steel hooks or wires which raise the warp are placed in an upright position, the needles occupying a horizontal position. Every needle is connected to a hook in such a manner that when the needle is pressed back by a card the hook is carried back also a spring at the of each needle sends both hooks and needles back to their original position. The Jacquard
17. 17. Each hook has a crook at the lower as well as the upper end. To the crook at the lower end the harness cords are fastened, and at the lower end of the harness cords the heedless are attached. In the centre of each heddle a small metal eye called a mail is fastened. Through the eye of the mail the warp is drawn. Below each heddle an iron weight called a lingo is attached for the purpose of keeping harness cord, heddle, mail, and warp in the proper position. Another important part of the machine is the cylinder, on which the cards are carried backward and forward.
18. 18. Raw Material (yarns) Design Dyeing Coloured Yarn Reeling Thread Roll Processing on Warp Machine Warp Roll Graph Paper Punch Card Series Of Punch Cards Jacquard Loom Final Product Plotting Punching Combining Punch Cards Process Flow of jacquard
19. 19. Electronic Jacquard Loom Function With electronic Jacquard looms, the punched paper design is obsolete. The design for the fabric is instead input into a computer that controls the hooks. Benefits Electronic Jacquard looms further increased productivity by cutting down on the time needed to prepare the punch cards and eliminating the time spent stopping the loom and replacing the cards for the next section of the fabric. The electronic Jacquard loom also allowed for a greater variety of yarns to be used, diversifying the fabrics that can be made with the aid of a loom rather than by hand.
20. 20. Damask Fabric Front swatch of a acid yellow & black damask silk Back view
21. 21. Brocade Brocade fabrics mainly consist of solid or multi-colored silk threads, often times combined with gold or silver metallic threads. A brocade is woven by adding a supplementary weft to the weave, creating the illusion that sections have been embossed into the fabric, or embroidered on top of it. The back (or wrong side) of a brocade is determined quite easily, as it will have groups of threads that have been trimmed away or left out of the weave and look more messy. Front view of a yellow, creme & metallic gold brocade Back view of the same brocade as above.
22. 22. Earlier Collections Place of origin: China (probably, made) Date: 1200-1500 (made) Artist/Maker: unknown Materials and Techniques: Silk damask This fragment of silk damask have a pattern in blue on a yellow ground showing a simplified Chinese symbol. There are stitch holes along the selvedge while opposite there are remains of stitches in red silk. A small piece of linen cloth (unbleached) is attached to one edge. Textile fragment
23. 23. The Stein Collection Object: Fragment, Textile Place of origin: Dunhuang (discovered) Date: late 8th century to 9th century (made) Artist/Maker: unknown Materials and Techniques: Silk damask This textile is a twill damask in brown silk with an all over foliage pattern. It is unclear what it would have been used for although it is likely to have had a decorative purpose. It was recovered from Cave 17 of the Mogao Grottoes.
24. 24. BIBLIOGRAPHY http://www.aiacaonline.org/pdf/jacquard-weaving-extended-documentation.pdf http://theinspirationgallery.com/wallpaper/damask/wp_damask01.htm htp://belovedlinens.net/Damask.html http://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/textiles/index.html http://books.google.co.in/books?id=W4pCAAAAIAAJ&pg=PA424&dq=damask+ fabric&hl=en&ei=mvG6TZmIN8XorQfso8H0BQ&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=resu lt&resnum=10&ved=0CI8BEOgBMAk#v=onepage&q=damask%20fabric&f=false http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/topic_damask.html
25. 25. Thank you Ruchika Puri Roll No: FPT/10/23 Jeet Raj Roll No: FPT/10/08