Fire In The BriarDIY PIPE CARVING GUIDE

There’s nothing more settling than a long draw from a pipe that sits perfectly in your cradled hand.

Unfortunately, such well-fitting bowls are near impossible to come by.

Sure, you can whip out the big bucks and commission a custom pipe... and while you’re at it, why not pay another man to change your oil and tell you who

to vote for? The only thing better than a pipe made for you is a pipe made by you, because if you want something done right, you’ve got to do it yourself.

Behind every great man is a distinguished

trail of pipe smoke

Pipe anatomy

SHANK

MORTISE

CHAMBER

STEM

BOWL

TENNON

FOOT

BIT

STUMMEL

RIM

AIR PASSAGE

BriarwoodBriar is the Hercules of the wood world, a hard, heat-resistant burl wood that could traverse the fires of hell with only a fine aroma to show for it. Any pipe worth its puff is made from this stuff. This Briarwood was painstakingly harvested from the undergrowths of the white heath tree which grows exclusively near the Mediterranean Sea, so show some respect when you sweep up those shavings.

ToolsPerhaps you imagined yourself whittling away with your trusty pocket knife. Once you experience the hardness of the Briar, you’ll realize you’d have better luck getting a ring into Mordor. To craft your masterpiece, you’ll need the right tools, which is why we’ve provided you with a bench vise, a cross-cut blade pull saw, and a hardened file and rasp set.

Finishing ProductsYou would never see stray splinters or exposed wood in handmade Amish furniture, and you’re not about to let them have the last word on American craftsmanship. Give your pipe a finish smoother than a 25 year old single malt with the variable grit sandpaper and wood finish.

CONTENTS1. Briarwood with Stem2. Bench Vise3. Cross-Cut Blade Pull Saw4. Rasp and File Set

6. Variable Grit Sand Paper7. Wood Finish8. Instruction Manual

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REFILL KIT: The Pipe Carving Refill Kit only includes the Briarwood Block and Stem, and of course this handy piece of literature. *

Sketch your pipe designs on paper. Make sure to include the chamber and airway in your layout. If you haven’t already done so, lower expectations about your artistic ability.

Measure and draw out the chamber, airway, and design onto the side of the pipe block. Also draw the view from the top down. If unsatisfied, erase and redraw, or repeat previous step of lowering expectations.

Draw lines for your initial cuts, then use the saw to remove corners to create an octagon. Keep cutting corners to achieve a rounded shape while brainstorming variations of “cutting corners” jokes you can use when showcasing your finished pipe.

Step 1:

LAYOUT

Step 2:

ROUGH CUTS

PRO-TIP: you can remove the stem for safekeeping while cutting and filing the block.

After cutting, you should be able to clearly visualize the final shape your pipe will take. If you must squint and strain to do so, you’re not done with the

Cut out a square along the stem to form the shank, and extend it to where the bowl will start.

Take your first pass with the 100 grit sandpaper to remove deep scratches. Yes, you can pretend it’s a Karate Kid training exercise for blocking little, tiny mouse punches.

Proceed to the 220 grit sandpaper, then repeat with the 400 and 600 grit paper ‘til the finish is smoother than a whimsical Kenny G solo.

This sanding process can take several hours, so put on a movie or some music. (We advise against Kenny G so you don’t start sanding your ears off.) Make sure the finish is perfect before advancing.

Sand and finish the stem with the same process as the wood.

Step 4:

SANDING

100GRIT

220GRIT

400GRIT

600GRIT

Use the rasp and file set to finish shaping the pipe. Remove corners and edges to help your pipe self-actualize.

The round and corner file are perfect for shaping where the bowl meets the shank. When in doubt, file with the passion of a disinterested 1960’s secretary keen on nail care.

Easy there, cowboy. Make sure your pipe has its final shape and symmetry before moving onto sandpaper.

Step 3:

SHAPING

PRO-TIP: You can file the acrylic stem too. Shape the stem while attached to the shank for a smooth, seamless transition.

SHARING

Finish the pipe with non-sealing wood finish, and/or use wood stain to alter the color and tone of the natural wood. You can decide for yourself since you’re a grown man.

Step 6:

FINISHINGStep 5:

STEM BENDING

Apply the finish first with a rag by rubbing it all over the pipe except for the chamber. Then allow it to sit for ten minutes before wiping off the excess. Finish by apply one to two coats, patting yourself on the back, and cleaning off your hands, not necessarily in that order.

The acrylic stem can be easily bent by heating in boiling water. If you need instructions on boiling water, try calling the local branch of the National Science Foundation. They’ll probably want to study you.

Heat stem for two minutes and then gently bend to desired curve and hold in place until it cools.

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