Transcript
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THEFORGOTTENAFRICANAMERICANCOMMUNITYOFRIVERROAD

ByDavidKathan,AmyRispinandL.PaigeWhitley

April3,2017

Apublishedversionofthispapertitled“TracingaBethesda,Maryland,AfricanAmericanCommunityanditsContestedCemetery”canbefoundintheFall2017issueofWashingtonHistory,journaloftheDCHistoricalSociety.Copiescanbe

purchasedonlineatwww.jstor.orgorattheGeorgeWashingtonUniversityTextileMuseumandshopat21standGStreetsNW,Washington,DC.

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AsonedrivesnorthwestonRiverRoadfromWashington,DC,passingresidentialcommunitiesalongtheway,onecomesuponabusysectionofcommercewhichincludesgasstations,self-storagecompanies,atallradiotowerandmoreinBethesda,Maryland.TheCapitalCrescentTrailpassesoverhead.ThisareaofcommercialactivityintheWestbardsectionofBethesdawas,however,oncehometoasmallbutvibrantcommunityofAfricanAmericanfamilies.AftertheCivilWar,thesepeople,someofwhomhadbeenthechattelofnearbywhitelandowners,establishedtheirhomesonlyamilefromtheDistrictofColumbiaborderalongwhatwascommonlyknownas“theriverroad”.Acommunitybydefinitionisagroupofpeoplesharingoneormorethingsincommon.Anexaminationoftherootsofthiscommunitythroughlanddeeds,oralaccounts,maps,willsandotherprimarydocumentsuncoversnetworksoffamily,work,faithandsupportthatboundtheresidentstoeachotherandtothesiteaswellaslinkedthemtootherAfricanAmericancommunitiesnearby.ThisarticletracestheoriginsofthisRiverRoadcommunityandhowitdevelopedandflourishedaftertheturnofthetwentiethcenturyandthen,withintensifiedcommercialdevelopmentinthe1950sand1960s,dwindleduntilonlythe“LittleChurchontheHill”andthemysteryofthecommunity’scemeteryremain.EarlyLandownersalongRiverRoadThehistoryoftheAfricanAmericancommunityintheWestbardRiverRoadareaofBethesdaiscloselyintertwinedwiththatofthewhitefamilieswhosettledtheareaintheeighteenthandnineteenthcenturies.TheseincludedtheShoemaker,Ray,Posey,LoughboroughandCounselmanfamilieswholivedandworkedalongwhatwasforcenturiesknownas“theriverroad”(henceforthcalledbyitsmodernnameRiverRoad).In1713,JamesStoddertandThomasAddisonreceivedalandgrantforatractcalledFriendshipcontaining3,124acres.Incurrentmapterms,Stoddert'sportionextendednorthfromwhatisnowFessendenStreetinnorthwesternDCintoMontgomeryCounty,anditspannedRiverRoadandWisconsinAvenueasfarasthecurrentEdgemoorLaneofBethesda,Maryland.Topaythe"quitrent"forthepatentorlandgrant,theFriendshiptractwassubdividedforsale.Economicsandlandpracticesatthetimefavoredlargelandholders.Tobaccowasthecashcropinpre-revolutionarytimeswhenitcouldbeusedtopayquitrentsforland.Infact,18thcenturylandleasesinMarylandandVirginiawereoftenwrittenintermsoftobaccotonnagetobeprovidedeachyearaspayment.Asaresult,tobaccowasgrownconstantly,eventhoughitwasresource-intensivetogrowandworeoutthelandbecauseitwasaheavyfeederofsoilnutrients.RiverRoad,whichdatedbacktotheSenecatrailofIndiantimes,wasamajorthoroughfareforbringingtobaccotothePortofGeorgetown.Itwascalleda"rollingroad"becausetobaccohogsheadscouldberolledfromup-countyinMarylandtoHighStreet(nowknownasWisconsinAvenue)andthencegenerallydownhilltoportforexporttoEurope.1In1810thepopulationofMontgomeryCountyreachedahighof19,816,ofwhich38.7%wasfromAfricanorigin(thistotalincluded677freeblacks,8,249slaves,and12,103whites).Duringthefirsthalfofthecenturymostofthepopulationwasengagedinagriculture.AftertheChesapeake&Ohio

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Canalcompanybeganconstructionin1828,however,populationtrendsreflectedthelargenumberofindenturedIrishlaborersneededtobuildthecanal.Duringthisperiodtheconstantplantingoftobaccowithoutanycroprotationdegradedthesoil.In1819tobaccopricesplummetedandMarylandtobaccofarmersbegantodeserttheirlandforfreshfieldsinNorthCarolina,Kentuckyandotherstates.By1840,thetotalpopulationofthecountyhaddroppedbymorethan22%to15,456(1,313freeblacks,5,377slaves,and8,766whites)andlandpriceshaddroppedsignificantlyaswell.2Threeofthearea’slargelandownersmovedfromPennsylvaniatothenewcapitalduringthistimeperiod.In1832,SamuelShoemaker,aQuakerofGermanextraction,purchased102acresoflandatagoodpriceinthesouthernpartofthecounty.HebroughthislargefamilyofeightsonsandtwodaughtersfromPennsylvaniawiththeintentionofrenewingthelandandgrowingfreshfruitsandvegetablesforthenearbypopulationofWashington.InanoralinterviewrecordedattheChevyChaseHistoricalSociety,hisgreat-great-granddaughterLillianShoemakerBrownsaid

ThewayIhearditwasthathecametoWashingtonbecausehehadreadinthenewspaperthatthecityofWashingtonwasgrowingsofastandtherewasn'tenoughfoodforthepeople.AndhehadfarmedupinPennsylvania."Well,that'sforme.I'mgoingdownandI'llhavethosepeoplefed."3

TruckfarmingdidnotrequiretheintensivelaborcalledforbytobaccofarmingandmanyQuakersdidnothaveslaves.Eventually,mostofSamuelShoemaker'ssonspurchasedlandnearbyandestablishedtheirownfarms.In1839sonIsaacShoemakerpurchasedatractof140acresbetweenRiverRoadandtheRockvillePike,thencalledHighStreet,toGeorgetown,andin1842anothersonCharlesShoemakerpurchasedafarmnearthefuturesiteofFortSimmons.TheproximityofthesefarmstoRiverRoadallowedthemtoeasilysupplythegrowingcityofWashingtonwithfreshfood.TheRockvilleTurnpike,completedin1828,linkedRockvilletoGeorgetown;TennallytownanditslinktoRiverRoadwasamajormidpointintersection.In1846IsaacShoemakersoldtenacresofhislandalongtheturnpiketoHillearyBall,whobuiltahouseandblacksmithshopandservicedthehorsesonthelocalstagelinesbetweenGeorgetownandRockville.AdditionallandsalestoAquilaEldandCyrusEliPerrybroughtIsaac’sfarmtoamanageablesizetobefarmedwithhissonsandhiredhelp.4JohnCounselmanownedaplantationof444acres,inheritedfromhisfatherSamuel,aveteranoftheWarof1812whobroughtthefamilyfromBucksCounty,PennsylvaniatoMontgomeryCounty,Marylandby1838.TotheeastlivedhisbrotherCharlesCounselman,whoseestatestraddledtheDistrictandMontgomeryCountylines.TothenorthwestlivedhisbrotherWilliamCounselmanwiththeirsisterRachel.JohnCounselman’splantationfacedRiverRoadfromthenortheastandextendednorthwardfromtheLittleFallsBranchasfarasthelandwhichisnowoccupiedbytheKenwoodCountryClub.5SmallerlandownersBenjaminandJamesRayweregrandsonsofCaptainJohnRay,Jr.,whoservedinMarylandtroopsduringtheRevolutionaryWarandwhosefamilyhadsettledintheareabeforethewar.In1850,brothersJames&BenjaminRaypurchasedseventeenacresoflandfacingRiverRoadatataxauction.Theirlandshareditsnorthernboundarywithsixacresoflandownedbytheirwidowed

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sister-in-lawElizabethJane(Loveless)Ray(alsoknownasMatildaJane),wifeoftheirdeceasedbrotherWilliamRay.6

Figure1:1850PlantationsandfarmssuperimposedoncurrentareamapofBethesda

andChevyChase,Maryland.Courtesy,PaulRispin.JustsouthoftheRaybrothers'seventeenacreswasthe251-acreestatecalledMilton,ownedbyNathanLoughborough.LoughboroughwasthefirstComptrolleroftheTreasuryandcametoWashingtonwiththeUSgovernmentwhenthecapitalmovedfromPhiladelphiatoWashingtonin1800.HewaspresidentoftheWashingtonTurnpikeCompanywhichbuilttheRockvilleTurnpike,andinnearbyWashingtonCountyoftheDistrictofColumbiaheestablishedatobaccoplantationcalledGrasslanduponwhatisnowthesiteofAmericanUniversity.By1838hehadassembledlandforanotherplantationjusttothewestofRiverRoadandnorthoftheDistrictofColumbialine,wherehelatermoveduponhissecondmarriagetowidowHarrietDunlopThomas.Itwasboundedtothesouthbyastream,nowinaculvertunderKeokukStreet,anditextendednorthpasttheLittleFallsBranchjustpastthecurrentlocationofButlerRoad.Usinggranitequarriedfromhisland,hebuiltamansion,stillstanding,whichincorporatedaseventeenthcenturyIndiantradingpost.TheworkingendoftheMiltonestatewasalongRiverRoadthustheeastentranceofthemansionwouldhavebeentheserviceentrancein1850.NathanLoughboroughalsobuiltagrainmillatthenorthernboundaryofhislandontheLittleFallsBranch.7

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In1837,PeterD.Poseyboughthislarge300-acreplantationcalled“Springfield”fromtheheirsofSamuelC.Busey.ThePoseyswereanextendedfamilyofEnglishplanterswhohadsettledoriginallyinSt.Mary’sandCharlescountiesinMaryland.TheSpringfieldplantationsharedpartofitseasternboundarywiththeRayfamilyproperty.8AscanbeseeninFigure1,by1850,therewerethreelargeplantationstotalingalmostonethousandacresalongRiverRoad,aswellasseverallargefarmssuchastheShoemakerandRayproperties,mostwithextensivefootagealongRiverRoad.Slavesprovidedthemajorityoftheplantationlabor.Becauseofthepoortobaccomarket,bythemid-nineteenthcentury,plantationswereslowlybeingconvertedtowheat,whichcouldbegrownwithfewerslavesandalsoallowedthelandtoberenewed.

Nonetheless,ontheeveoftheCivilWar,datafromthe1860SlaveScheduleforMarylandshowthatJohnCounselmanandthenWidowHarrietLoughborougheachownedsevenslaveswhilePeterPoseyownedtwelveslaves.9TheAfricanAmericanCommunityofRiverRoad:BeginningsAfterthewar,withoutslavelaborlargefarmsandplantationscouldnotbemaintained.TheRaybrothersandJohnCounselmanbegantosellsomeoftheiracreage.JamesHenryLoughborough,NathanLoughborough’sgrandsonthroughhissonHamilton,hadobtainedMilton10andin1869begantoselloffsomeofthisproperty.ThroughoutMontgomeryCountysmallsettlementsofnewlyfreedblacksspranguponthefringesoffarmsandplantations.ClarkenotesthatmuchofthelandownedbytheAfricanAmericanswaslowinvaluebecauseitwaseither“marshy,woodedorpoorsoilunfitforfarming.Blackstookthisuncultivatedsoilandmadeitproduceenoughfoodfortheirfamilies."ThesoutherntriangleofCounselman'slandandtheRays'seventeenacreswhichtheRiverRoadAfricanAmericanswouldpurchase,aswellasthenorthernportionofMilton,hadthepoortopographyClarkedescribes.Inadditiontobeinghilly,itwaspronetofloodingfromspringsintheareaaswellastheLittleFallsBranchandastreamwhichwouldeventuallybecalledtheWillettBranch.11

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Figure2:JaneRiverslanddeed,circa1870.Courtesy,MarylandStateArchives.Inlate1869twoAfricanAmericansFrancisGrayandJohnHalljointlypurchasedsixacresoflandinthetractcalled“Friendship”fromJamesRay.ThelandlaybetweenRiverRoadandPeterPosey’sestatetothewest.By1873sixmoreAfrican-Americanfamilies,somerelated,hadpurchasedlandinthisarea.JaneRivers,HenryJackson,NelsonWarrenandWilliamWarrenboughtadditional2-or3-acrelotsfromtheRaybrothersin1870,1872and1873respectively;theirlotswerepositionedsouthofthelandpurchasedbyHallandGray.AsseeninFigure2,JaneRiverswasactuallynotedas“colored”onher1870landdeed.OntheeastsideofRiverRoad,landownerandformerslaveownerJohnCounselmansold2-acrelotstoNelsonWoodin1872andJohnBurleyIn1873.The1879HopkinsAtlasmapinFigure3showsthenewAfricanAmericanlandowners,settledatthejunctionoftheCounselman,LoughboroughandPoseyplantations.12NotalllandwassoldtoAfricanAmericans.In1873ThomasWardpurchasedlandfromLoughboroughinthesoutheastcornerofMiltonestate.ThefollowingyearJehuWillett,ablacksmith,andhiswifeEdithShoemakerWillettpurchasedlandfromWidowRaywhichincludedtheSpinningWheelInnandTavern.The1879HopkinsmapinFigure3identifiesablacksmithshopwithtwoblacksquaresandtheabbreviationsBS,Sh.nearastreamontheWillettproperty.PolishimmigrantandLibraryofCongresslibrarianLouisC.SolyampurchasedtheformerCrownpropertyoppositetheMiltonestatein1875.HenamedthepropertyAtalfa.PrussianimmigrantJacobWilbertjoinedtheareain1877whenhepurchased25acresabuttingtheBurleypropertyfromJohnCounselman.13

Figure3:HopkinsAtlasoffifteenmilesaroundWashington,includingthecountyofMontgomery,

Maryland,circa1878.Courtesy,LibraryofCongress.

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TheJacksonfamilyhistoryshowssomeofthedifficultiesfacinghistoriansintracingformerslavefamilies.GenealogicalresearchidentifiesHenryJacksoninthe1870censusasJOHNHenryJackson,livingintheRiverRoadcommunitywithhiswifeWaytoga(saidtobeaMuscogeeIndian)andfivechildren.However,by1880WaytogawasawidowlivinginGeorgetownwithhersevenchildrenandgodfatherJohnGodfreyfromtheRiverRoadarea,thelatteralsonotedpreviouslyinthe1870Census.The1880censussimultaneouslyindicatesaHenryJacksonlivingwithwifeMaryandnieceMarthaintheRiverRoadcommunity.GenealogicalresearchidentifiesthisJacksonasROBERTHenryJackson.ThelandacquiredbyRobertHenryJacksonis,infact,referredtoas“MaryJacksonland”invariousdeeds.Inadditiontothesenewlandowners,earlycensusdataindicatefreeAfricanAmericansintheareawhowerenotpropertyowners.OnesuchfamilywastheBottsfamily.ThisAfricanAmericanfamilylivedoppositetheLoughboroughestateonRiverRoadontheAtalfapropertyofLouisSolyam.Inthe1870censusayoungAfricanAmericannamedWilliamBotts,hiswifeandtwodaughterslivednexttoSolyam.In1880,William,hissonWilliamJr.,andsixty-threeyear-oldpatriarchPascal,orPasco,Bottslivedatthesite.NextdoorPascal’s25-year-olddaughter-in-lawCoraBottslivedwiththeSolyamfamilyasadomesticservant.(ShewasmarriedtoWilliam’sbrotherJeremiah.)Figure4exhibitsarare1895photooftheBottshome,takenbyHerbertSolyam,sonofLouisSolyam.

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Figure4:ThePascalBottscabinontheSolyamestateAtalfa,circa1895.

PhotographbyHerbertSolyam,courtesyStephenLane.Historiesrecounttheexistenceofslavecabinsinthisarea,againperhapsbecausethelandwouldhavebeendeemedundesirableforagriculture.Inhermemoirs,MargaretCabellBrownLoughboroughwrotethattheslavesoftheMiltonEstate,whichwaslocatedjustsouthoftheRaybrothers’land,“weregivenlandontheedgeoftheproperty.”Oneoralhistorianrememberedold-timerWilliamBrown,secondhusbandtoMaryHall,as“olderthanHenryJackson.HelivedinaslavehouseupthereacrossfromJacobWilbert.”TheBottsresidence,locatedonlowlyinglandnexttotheLittleFallsStream,mightalsohavebeenaformerslavecabin.ItsstructurecloselyresemblesthedocumentedslavecabinoftheNoGainplantationinChevyChase,MD.14SomeofthesenewAfricanAmericanlandownersmayhavebeenformerslaves.Poor,ambiguousornon-existentrecordsmaketracingformerslavesdifficult.However,in1862intheDistrictofColumbia,andin1867inMontgomeryCounty,Maryland,formerslaveownersprovidedlistsoftheirchattel,hopingtoreceivecompensation.TheDistrictownersdidreceivecompensation;theMontgomeryCountyownersdidnot.Theselistsoffersomebitsofinformation.Forexample,ownerB.T.Hodges,whoownedpropertiesbothinMontgomeryCountyandinWashingtonCountyoftheDistrictof

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ColumbiafiledaclaimforaslavenamedJohnBurley,age25;the1870censuslistsaJohnBurleyintheRiverRoadarea,age28.Likewise,slaveownerLouisaVinsonofMontgomeryCountyfiledaclaimin1867forcompensationforaslavenamedHenryJackson,age30,in1867.Inthe1870censusaHenryJacksonis32andlivingnearJohnCounselman.AnotherpossibleformerslaveisJohnHall.In1862,Mrs.LucyWalkerofWashingtonCountyintheDistrictofColumbiafiledaclaimforJohnHall,amaleslaveof33.HallhadpreviouslybeenlistedasWalker’spropertyinthe1855DCtaxassessmentdocument.15TheNelsonWoodfamilycanbetracedtosomeextent.AccordingtocensusdataNelsonWoodwasablacksmith;in1870,helivednexttoRichardBall,sonofHillearyBall,ablacksmithwithashopalongtheRockvilleTurnpike.ItseemslikelythatNelsonWoodwasemployedintheBalls'blacksmithshop.PerhapsaftermovingtotheRiverRoadcommunityin1872,NelsonWoodworkedattheblacksmithshoplocatednexttotheWillettbusiness,theSpinningWheelInnandTavern.A1941BethesdaJournalarticleaboutlocalwomennotedthatMaryAnnWood,thewifeofthisNelsonWoodandmothertofiveWoodoffspring,hadbeenaslaveofJohnCounselman,andwhenyounghadbeenloanedouttoCharlesShoemakerforwork.

MaryAnnwasaslaveownedbytheCouncilmanfamilywholivedonafarmwhichisnowthesiteofKenwood.AttheendoftheCivilWar,MaryAnnwasfreedandtheCouncilmanfamilygaveherapieceoflandonRiverRoad.Sheworkedfor[Mrs.CharlesShoemaker]fromthetimeshewasayounggirluntilshewastoooldtowork.16

TryingtodelineateMaryAnn’slineageisdifficult,andinfact,MaryAnn’sslavenamemayhavebeenLucindaMartin.Why?First,the1850Censusshowsayoungfemaleslave(born1838)livingwithCharlesShoemaker.Secondly,LucindaMartinwasayoungslaveinheritedin1856fromSamuelCounselmanbyhisgranddaughterLucyA.M.CounselmanofDC,soMaryAnn/LucindaWASownedbytheCounselmanfamily.Inthe1862DCCompensationdocumentsLucyCounselmanidentifiesthisLucindaMartin(bornin1838)forremuneration.Third,inhis1867remunerationlistforMontgomeryCountyJohnCounselmanlistsatleastfiveslavessurnamedMartin.Fourth,the1860CensusshowsaFREEolderAfricanAmericancouplesurnamedMartinlivingwiththeJohnCounselmanfamilyandseveralchildren,stillenslaved.Moreover,marriagerecordscitethemarriageofLucindaMartintoNelsonWoodintheDistrictofColumbiain1865.Finally,theU.S.SocialSecurityApplicationsandClaimsIndexforsonFrankWoodcitesparentsasNelsonWoodandMaryMartin.However,post-CivilWarcensusentriesindicatethatMaryAnncitedheryearofbirthas1845or1848,makingthisanalysisinconsistent,unlesscensusorself-reportingwaswrongorthatshewasanotherCounselmanslave,bornin1845.Nevertheless,itseemsthatin1872MaryAnnreturnedtotheareawhereshewasbornwithhernewhusbandNelson.Intheyearsbetween1870and1900,bothlargeandsmalllandownersoftheareaweredevotedtoagriculture.Censusoccupationsforcommunitymenindicatedfarmlaborerorlaborerforthemostpart,withsomenotableexceptionssuchasNelsonWoodtheblacksmith.AndcensusdataindicatethatmanyoftheyoungerWarrensofthelargeextendedWarrenclanworkedontheC&OCanal.Thecanalwas185mileslongandwouldoperateuntil1924,conveyingwheatandredsandstonefromSenecaandcoalfromAlleghanyCountymines.LateinlifeoneresidentofRiverRoadrecalledworking

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thebargesasachild,loadinglimefromAntietaminwheelbarrelsontoacanalbarge,saying“(yahadto)putaragoveryournose…Thelimedusttaketheskinoffaya”andthenwaitingwiththebargefordeliveryatdifferentlocks.17Havinglittleinthewayofasocialsafetynettohelpintimesofdeathandcalamity,unsurprisinglywidowsinthecommunityremarried,apracticalsolutionforretaininglandandprovidingcareforchildren.AmongthefamilieswhoexperiencedfamilyshocksearlyonwereJaneRivers’,FrancisGray’s,andJohnHall’sfamilies.By1880widowJaneRivershadmarriednewhusbandWilliamBrooks;widowCharlotteGrayhadadoptedsonArmsteadHarrisofVirginia;andwidowMaryHallhadmarriedWilliamH.Brown.Remarriagewascommon;widowWaytogaJacksonandwidowerJohnBurleymarriedlateinlifein1907.ItispossiblethatBurley’sfirstwifeMarywasWaytoga’ssister,ashischildrenbyherwerealsosaidtobepartNativeAmerican.18Thedeathofcommunityfoundersinthelate1890sinitiatedtheprocessoflandsubdivisionamongheirs.Inaddition,subdivisionofsomepropertieswastheonlywaytheAfricanAmericancommunitycouldgrowtomeetexpandingemploymentopportunities.CharlotteGrayinher1897willbequeathed“landandhouseadjoiningPeterPoseydownasfarasthebranch”tohergrandsonFrankDodsonandher“houseandlandlyingbetweentheriverroadandsaidbranch”toheradoptedsonWilliamArmsteadJones.JaneRiversBrooksinitiallywroteherwillin1892andbequeathedtoherhusbandWilliamsoleandexclusiveuseofherbedroomandfurnitureduringhisnaturallife,andtohersonGeorgeherrealestateandtoherdaughterMarthaadollarwiththememorableline,“MyreasonformakingthisdistinctionisthatmysonhasbeenacomfortwhereasMarthahasbeenasourceoftroubletome.”(Afterherhusbanddied,an1897attachmenttothewillbequeathedthebedroomandfurnituretosonGeorge.)Similarly,NelsonWarren,Jr.diedin1903andlefthislandtohiswifeElizaforherlife,anduponherdeathtosixoftheirchildren;theseventhchild,SusanRobinson,onlyreceivedadollar.NeighborandfriendWilliamH.Brown,oneofthefewliterateresidentsofthecommunity,executedthewill.19Asfamiliesgrewandexpandedwiththeadditionofnewcomers,newopportunitiesforworkalsoaroseasthenewcenturyapproached.From1900untilWorldWarII,thepillarsoffaith,education,andsupportheldthecommunitytogetheruntilschooldesegregationandcommercialdevelopmentatmid-centurybegintofrayitsfabric.WorkandLeisureintheNewCenturyStartingin1890theprospectofnewmodesoftransportationinfluencedagradualshiftinthecommunityfromanagrarianeconomytoanindustrialone.First,JamesHenryLoughborough,southwesternneighbortothecommunity,promotedconstructionoftheGeorgetownBranchoftheB&ORailroadCompanycalledtheMetropolitanSouthernRailroad.1890Right-of-WaydeedsbetweentherailroadandlandownersLoughborough,NelsonWarren,WilliamWarren,andothersshowlandsurveysfortheproposedrailroad.Constructionoftherailwaybeganin1892andenhancedthecommercialvalueoflandinthearea.TheMetropolitanSouthernraillinewasfinallycompletedin1910andcarriedcoalandbuildingmaterialsbetweenGeorgetown,DCandChevyChaseandBethesda,Marylanduntil1985.(This11-mileoldrailbedbecametheCapitalCrescentTrailin1996andisnow

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oneofthemostpopularhiker-bikertrailsintheUnitedStates.)Second,theGeorgetownandTenallytownRailwayCompanybuiltatrolleylineupWisconsinAve.from32ndandMStreetstotheDistrictofColumbiaboundaryline.By1900trolleyservicewasextendedtoRockvillebytheWashingtonandRockvilleElectricRailwayCompany(latertheWashingtonRailwayandElectricCompany)untilitendedin1923.ThesetrolleylinesbroughtnewjobopportunitiestoRiverRoadcommunityresidentsbetween1900and1930.ThetrolleylinesalsoopenedthisformerlyagriculturalareatowhitefamiliesleavingthecityofWashingtontopopulatethenewsuburbsofSomerset(1899),FriendshipHeights(1901)andAmericanUniversityParkinMontgomeryCounty(1899).Third,theGlenEchoElectricRailroadopenedin1891andreachedCabinJohnin1900.ItsoriginalroadbedpassedthroughLoughboroughandSolyamlandnorthalongwhatisnowWillardAvenueinFriendshipHeightsandthenitwasmovednorthtoSomerset.ItsharedaterminalatWisconsinandWillardAvenueswiththeGeorgetown-Rockvillesystem.20

Figure5:TrolleyCarNo.145oftheWashingtonRailwayandElectricCo.ranonWisconsinAvenue

until1923.Courtesy,ArchivesoftheDCTrolleyMuseum.OnenewemployerwaslocatednexttotheJacksonpropertyonthesiteoftheoldLoughboroughquarry.In1878JamesHenryLoughboroughleasedrightstoquarrygraniteontheMiltonEstatepropertytoRobertK.Johnson,bringingmuchneededincometothestrappedMiltonEstatetohelpitrecoverfromtheeffectsoftheCivilWar.In1916AllenE.WalkerboughttheoldLoughboroughquarryandheandhispartnersestablishedtheBethesdaBlueGraniteCompany.LocalAfricanAmericanmen

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quarriedgraniteforuseasheadstonesandbuildingmaterials,usingtheadjacentrailroadandaccessroadtoRiverRoadtotransportthestone.The1931Klinglerealestatemapstillshowsthequarrysymbolinthearea,althoughbythattimethequarrywasfilledwithwaterandnolongerfunctioning.AnothermajoremployertothecommunitywastheUSDepartmentofAgriculture’sExperimentalStationofAnimalHusbandry,alsoknownastheVeterinaryExperimentalStation,locatedjustnorthofthecommunity.(SeeFigure6.)DrivenoutbycomplaintsfromitslocationontheNationalMallin1897,theBureauofAnimalHusbandryhadatwofoldpurpose:tomaintainthehealthofdomesticanimalhusbandrybytestingbreedsforincreasedstaminaandhealthandtodefendagainstdisease.AtleastsixRiverRoadcommunitymembersworkedatthelocalExperimentalStationfrom1910to1930beforeitonceagainbecameavictimofagrowinglocalpopulationleeryofanimaldiseases.In1937,theUSDAstationmovedtoBeltsville,Maryland,andtodayitcontinuesitsmissionthere.Today,allthatremainsoftheformer50+acreexperimentalfarmanditsmanybuildingsistheRenaissanceRevivalbrick-and-stonebuilding,nowtherecreationalcenterforNorwoodParkinBethesda,whichformerlyhousedthelaboratoriesandadministrativeofficesoftheBureau.

Figure6:1904BaistmapofthevicinityofWashingtonD.C.showingB&ORailroad,GlenEcho

ElectricandWashingtonRailwaytrolleylinesandUSDAExperimentalStationnorthofRiverRoad.Courtesy,LibraryofCongress

NewemploymentopportunitiesnotonlybroughtjobstotheAfricanAmericancommunity,theyalsobroughtnewcomers.Menmarriedintoexistingfamiliesandworkedwiththenewemployersinthe

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area;theirwivesfoundemploymentasdomesticsorlaundressesforthegrowinglocalwhitecommunities.OneexampleofnewbloodinthecommunitywastheClipperfamily.Aftertheirparents’deathsin1903and1907,threebrothersnamedIsaac,WilliamandClevelandClippermovedtotheRiverRoadcommunity.WilliamClippermarriedBlancheWarren,daughteroflongtimeresidentNelsonWarren,Jr.in1907.IsaacClipperwasahostler,ordriver,fortheUSNavalObservatory.WilliamClipperandhisbrotherClevelandClipperworkedattheUSDAExperimentalStation.AccordingtoCleveland’snephewandWilliamClipper’ssonClevelandClipper,itwasagoodsteadyjobwithoccasionalfreemeatormilk.Lateinlife,ina1977interviewintheWashingtonPost,WilliamClipperboastedhehadoncebrokeninacoupleofzebrasanddriventhemupWisconsinAvenue“intriumph.”21TheClipperscamefromastoriedbackground,well-recordedbyprolificandaccuratefamilyoralhistories.TheirfatherJohn“Jack”ClippergrewupaslaveinHanover,Virginia.AfterbeingfreedbyUniontroopsafteranearbybattle,JackstayedtoassistthequartermasterbeforeboardingaboatatAquiaCreekforBaltimore.Fromtherehemadehiswaysouth,eventuallyfindingworkasastonecutterattheSenecaStoneQuarry.Figure7showsJackClippersecondfromrightwithotherSenecastonecuttersin1890.(TheruinsofthestonecuttingmillcanbeseentodayattheendofTschiffleyMillRoadnearRiley’sLockRoadinPotomac,nexttotheC&OCanal.)JackClippermarriedMarthaJohnsonfromBigPinesnearPotomacandtogethertheyhadthirteenchildren.TheUSRegisterofCivil,MilitaryandNavalServicerecordsshowsthatin1895JackwaswatchmanatSenecaQuarrywhilehisthreeoldersonsBoise,JohnJr.andGeorgeW.werestonecutters.YoungersonsWilliam,ClevelandandIsaacClippermigratedtotheRiverRoadcommunityaftertheirparents’deaths.TheClipperbrotherswouldbecomeactivemembersoftheRiverRoadcommunityandtodayClipperLaneoffRiverRoadmarksthelocationwherethethreebrothersboughtlandfromJacobWilbertintheearlytwentiethcenturyandsettledalongsideeachother.22

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Figure7:JackClipperisshownsecondfromrightwithotherSenecaQuarrystonecutterscirca1890.

Courtesy,ShirleyShields.In1923AllenE.WalkerboughtmoreLoughboroughpropertysouthwestoftherailbedandhiscompanytheWashingtonAccessoriesFuelCompanybuiltalargestoragefacilityforgasolineforthegrowingcarandtruckmarketoftheWashingtonarea.In1926theGeorgeE.FullerStonePlantestablisheditsstonefabricationfactorynexttotherailwaybedontheeastsideofRiverRoad.CommunitymenworkedaswatchmenandcuttheimportedIndianalimestoneusedtobuildtheU.S.SupremeCourtBuildingandtheWashingtonNationalCathedralinWashington,DC.OnthegrassyloadingzonenexttotheFullerplant,theRiverRoadcommunityhadabaseballfieldandsupportedtheRiverRoadLions,theirneighborhoodteamduringthelate20sandearly30s.Theteamtravelledtoplayotherlocalteams.YoungClevelandClipperrecollected,

Wewentallupinthere,toOlney,Maryland,andMt.Zion.TheyhadadiamondupthereliketheyhadattheGriffithStadiumalmost,withascoreboardintheoutfield.WeplayeddowninGeorgetown,37thandProspect,andwayouton61stStreetatHuntsville.

Eachteamwouldputupsomemoneyforthewinningteamtotakethepot.MuchtothechagrinofplayerGeraldHatton,hecouldn’tplayforhisDChighschool’steam“becausehehadbeenpro.”23ThePinkneyHattonfamilymovedtothecommunityafter1920fromDC,wheretheyweremembersoftheFirstBaptistChurch,oneoftheoldestblackBaptistchurchesinGeorgetown.(In2012thechurch’sgardenwasdedicatedtoGeraldHattonandhiswifeEtta.)OriginallyfromSouthCarolina,Pinkney

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Hatton,Sr.wasfirstadriverattheUSNavalObservatorylikeIsaacClipper,andlaterdroveforPigglyWigglyandA&Pmarkets.Withthehelpofhisbrother-in-lawhebuilttheRiverRoadcommunity’sfirstfour-bedroom,two-storySearsRoebuckfour-squarehome.Inbackofthehouseheparkedanever-increasingfleetoffirsttrucks,thencabs.Anenterprisingman,herepresentedthenewmiddleclassofAfricanAmericansrisinginthe1920sand1930s.LiketheClippers,hesupportedthechurchandthebaseballteaminmanyways,includingprovidingtransportationtothebaseballteam’sgames.YoungClevelandClipperrecalledthecommunityspirit:“Weusedtohavelawnparties,cookingpigs’feetandpotatosalad,(out)onthediamond”andthatHatton,WilliamClipperandafewothermenwouldcontributemoneytowardthemoney“pot”forgames.24Withtheonsetofthedepressionof1929,someresidentsstartedsellingtheirlandtowhiterealtorsandlandspeculators.In1929WilliamandJuliaHall,heirstoJohnHall,soldtheirportionoflandtoJohnBeiber,aresidentofthenearbySomersetcommunity,yetdebtledtobanktrusteeshipandtoanotherspeculator’spurchasewhenScottB.Applebyboughtthelandatauction.In1939investorMartinMcInerneypurchasedformerNelsonWarrenland;inthesameyear,theRev.WilliamA.JonesandwifesoldthelastofthelandinheritedfromCharlotteGraytooutsidersBertrandandChristieAcker.ThelattersalecreatedfrictionwiththeirneighborstheRiversfamily,thelocalcemeteryownerWhite’sTabernacleNo.39,andtheRiverRoadColoredSchool,astheAckersfencedoffandblockedaccesstotheoutletroadusedbythoseproperties.A1940agreementresolvedtheissue.25AsthecountryslowlyrecoveredfromtheDepressionandmovedtowardWorldWarII,theAfricanAmericancommunitybegantocontract.Morelodgersrentedlivingspaceinthecommunity,partlyduetotheirinabilitytobuypropertyintherestrictedcovenantcommunitiesnearby,andlong-timeresidentsbegantomoveawaytoeithertheDistrictofColumbiaorup-county.The1930and1940censusentriesshowsomeRiverRoadresidentslivingintheScotlandcommunityinPotomac.Importantly,employmentopportunitiesalsoshifted.Thetransformationfromaheavy-toaservice-industrydidnotnecessarilytranslateintonewjobsforthelocalcommunity.TheGeorgeFullerStonePlantshuttereditsplantin1944,butin1942theBriggsFiltration(alsoknownastheBriggsClarifierCompany)andGardnerLabswerealreadygrowingsteadilyonthesiteoftheformerbaseballfield.Thesecompaniescontributedtothewareffortthroughtheirdefense-relatedcontracts,winningawardsintheprocess,butcensusdataindicatethattheyemployedfew,ifany,ofthelocalAfricanAmericanresidents.Infact,someresidents,liketheyoungerClevelandClipper,wereenlistedthemselvesandfarfromhome.26In1952,mostofNelsonWood'stwo-acrepropertywassurveyedforsaleandlaterpurchasedforconstructionofLittleFallsParkway.By1954changewasdefinitelyintheair.HotShoppes,whichlaterbrandeditselfMarriott,boughttheoldFullerStonePlantandundertookrenovationstocreatenewheadquarters.(ThebuildingisnowthehomeoftheWashingtonEpiscopalSchoolinBethesda.)OthersmallbusinessesgraduallysproutedalongRiverRoadtoservethegrowingsuburbancommunitiesborderingRiverRoad.Thesebusinessesincludedgasstations,thenotoriousSugarBowlbeerjoint,autobodyshops,Talbert’sIce&Beverage,theDGSGrocery,furniturerepairshopsandgardenshops.In1956theformerPoseyplantationwasdevelopedintotheWestwoodShoppingCenterandWesternJuniorHighSchoolwasbuilt.In1958localarearealestateinvestorWilliamCarriganboughttheformerRiverRoadColoredSchoolpropertyfromtheMontgomeryCountyBoard

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ofEducation;thiswasfollowedbyCarrigan’sbuyingsweepoftheremainingsmalllotssurroundingtheschool.Finally,in1961and1963thelastoftheoriginalAfricanAmericanfamilylandholdingsweresoldtooutsiderstothecommunitybentondevelopment.MargaretA.Wood,educatorandgranddaughterofformerslaveMaryAnnWood,finallyrelinquishedthelastpieceofWoodproperty,whichincludedasmallfamilycemetery,toMartinT.McCarthyfortheconstructionoftheKenwoodCondominiums,whichnowstandsatthecornerofLittleFallsParkwayandRiverRoad.Andin1963theremainingheirsoftheoriginalJaneRiverspropertysoldouttodeveloperLlazloTauber,whobegandevelopmentofWestwoodShoppingCenteroverthenextfewyears.ACommunityofFaith"Remember:Thechurchisthealphaandomegaoftheblackcommunity."ClarkenotesthataftertheCivilWar,leadersbegantoemergeamongthefreeAfricanAmericanpopulationandthechurchwasthefirstinstitutiontobeestablishedintheircommunities;soonaftercametheestablishmentofschools,benevolentsocietiesandotherinstitutions.27TheRiverRoadcommunitywasupheldbythepillaroffaith.Thisfaithevolvedthroughlocalnetworksinvolvingthecommunityitself,itstiestoTenleytown,andlatertieswithBethesdaandtheScotlandcommunityinPotomac.Recordsandoralhistoriesdescribeseveralministersaswellaslaypeoplelivingthere.CarolineLoughborough,bornin1892onMiltonEstate,providedanearlyreferencetoacommunityofChristiansintheRiverRoadenclave.Inher1931bookofpoemsFragmentsshereminiscedaboutalocaloldblindpreacher:

“TheOldBlindMinisterlivedin“MyMaryland”justafewyearsago.HeheldoutdoorserviceseverySundayafternooninsummerandonwarmdaysinwinter… Hewasadignifiedoldman,veryneatlydressedinapairofMarseHenry’spants,afrockcoatofMr.Hamilton’s,andastiffwhitevestofUncleAlly’s.Hisshirtwasonehisstep-daughterhadboughtforhimandkeptwhiteandstiffwithherownhands. Heisdeadnowbuthisgoodworklivesonintheuprightlivesofhispeople.28

Carolinewasrecallingeventsfromherchildhoodaftertheturnofthecentury.Thereferencestotheminister’shand-me-downclothingfromherfatherJamesHenry(“MarseHenry”),hergrandfatherHamilton,andherpaternaluncleAlexander(“UncleAlly”)LoughboroughwouldindicatethattheministerlikelylivedonorneartheMiltonEstate.TherewasanetworkamongtheAfricanAmericansoftheDistrict,theirchurches,andoutreachtothesuburbs.Thischurchexpansioninturnledtotheestablishmentofschools,cemeteries,benevolentsocietiesandthelikeinthosenewcommunities.WiththehugeinfluxoffreedslavesintotheDistrictofColumbiaduringtheCivilWar,newAfricanAmericanchurcheswereestablishedandoftenthefirstrecoursefornewcomersintheirsearchfor

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familyandfriendsseparatedbywar.ExamplesofthesechurchesincludetheFirstBaptistChurchinGeorgetown,organizedbyformerslavetheRev.SandyAlexanderin1862,andtheVermontAvenueBaptistChurch,initiallyknownastheFifthBaptistChurch,establishedbytheRev.JohnH.Brooksin1866.Brooks,ablacksmithandshoemakerbytrainingandUnionarmydriver,firstledservicesinprivatehomesbeforesettlinginasmallwoodenstructureinthepoorareanearRockCreekknownas“Hell’sBottom”.Underhisministry,thenamepurportedlybecame“Heaven’sIsles.”29AftertheCivilWarTenleytown,alsoknownasRenoCitythen,grewastheformersiteofFortRenowassubdividedforsale.Asitsmixedpopulationgrew,AfricanAmericanchurchesinthecityestablishedmissionsorsisterchurchesforthegrowingTenleytowncommunity.ThesenewchurchesincludedRockCreekBaptistChurch,establishedin1872bytheVermontAvenueBaptistChurch;St.George’sEpiscopalChurch,established1899bySt.Alban’sEpiscopalChurch;andMt.Asbury(eventuallySt.Mark’sMethodistEpiscopalChurch)establishedin1888.SoonafterthefoundingofthesechurchesthecreationoftheJesseRenoColoredSchool(1903),acemetery(1880s),andaMosesHallfollowed.30In1875theReverendCharlesChamp,originallyfromtheVermontAvenueBaptistChurch,ledtheRockCreekBaptistChurch(hereafterknownasRCBC)asitssecondpastor.Accordingtochurchhistory,duringRev.Champ’sministryhebaptizedayoungmanwhowouldlaterstepinhisshoesandtakethehelmofRCBC.InAugust1902,attheageof41,WilliamArmsteadJones,theadoptedsonofCharlotteGreyoftheRiverRoadcommunity,wasinstalledasthethirdministerofthechurchand,inhisownwords,“baptized,married,christenedandburied(the)church”for47yearsuntilhisdeathin1948.31Howdidthisadoptedsonjourneytothispoint,servingnotonlyhisowncommunityalongRiverRoadbutdoublingRCBC’smembershipuntilthechurchbecameknownnotonlyinWashingtonbutinVirginiaandMarylandtoo?

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[Figure8:WilliamArmsteadJonescirca1922.CourtesyTheHistoryoftheAmericanNegro,

Washington,DCedition]

WilliamArmsteadJones’ lifewasamiraculousjourneyindeed. Accordingtoone1922biographyherememberedlittleofhisancestryotherthanhismother’snameSarah(Harris)JonesandthathewasbornintheIsleofWight,Virginia,inAugust1861.AsatoddlerhewaspartofaninfamousattemptbyPresidentLincolntocolonizepartofHaitiwithfreedslaves.Theattemptstartedillwhen435formerslavessailedonApril14,1863ontheOceanRangerforL’IleàVache,HaitiandwereimmediatelycheatedoutoftheirUScurrencybythecolony’sdirectorwhilestillonboard.Circumstanceswentfrombadtoworseandwithinayear,onMarch20,1864,theMarciaDayreturnedthesurvivorstoAlexandria,VA,dockingsecretivelyonthePotomacRiveratnight.ThebiographyfurtherstatesthathewasbroughttoWashingtonwhenhewaselevenwhereheworkedandwenttoschool.SomehowhemetandlivedwithCharlotteGrayonRiverRoad,forhejoinedRockCreekBaptistChurchin1873whenitwasquitenewinTenleytown.Itwassaid,“EvenasaboyhewasanearnestChristianandwasactiveintheworkofthechurchandSundaySchool,sohisfriendswerenotsurprisedwhenhewascalledtopreach.”32Itispossiblethatpriorto1903,RiverRoadchurchactivitieswerecenteredonWilliamArmsteadJones'property,inheritedfromCharlotteGray.OnAugust23,1900theEveningStardescribedhimastheministerofMemorialBaptistChurchinMontgomeryCounty.ThismayhavebeenthenameofahousechurchonhisinheritedlandonRiverRoad.AndwastheoldblindpreacherofRiverRoadanearlyinspirationtoWilliamArmsteadJoneswhilehelivedonRiverRoadwithCharlotteGray?

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AdditionalconnectionsbetweenRCBCandtheRiverRoadcommunitywerealsonotedinnewspaperannouncementsoftheday.Forexample,Rev.JonesofficiatedthemarriagebetweenBlancheWarren,daughterofNelsonWarren,Jr.,andWilliamClipperin1907.RCBCwasalsothesiteoffuneralservicesforlocalresidentsGeorgeJacksonin1917andCoraBottsin1935.ThedeathnoticeforCoraBottsfurtherspecifiedshewasburiedintheMosesCemetery,Friendship,MD.ItispossiblethatRev.JonesalsopresidedovertheburialofNelsonWarren,Jr.in1903astheDCdeathrecordindicatesburialinMontgomeryCounty,Maryland.Finally,AndrewWood,brothertoFrankWoodandsonofNelsonandMaryAnnWood,mayhavebeentheA.WooddescribedassuperintendentofRCBC’sSundaySchoolin1905.33In1930,theUnitedStatesCongresspassedtheCramtonBilltoestablishanationalmilitaryparkatFortReno.ThegrowingdesirabilityofthisareaformoreupscalehomesandneighborhoodswasalsorecognizedwhentheParkandPlanningCommissionsetasidealargeareaforclearanceandacquiredalloftheformerFortRenotractoverthenextdecadeorso,displacingneighborhoodhomesandthethreeblackchurches.In1945,withtheneighborhoodclearedofitsmanyhomes,thecongregationofRCBCfinallysolditspropertyfor$15,000(thebasiccostoftheland)andmovedtoanewlocationat24thandHSt.,NW.AsformerRiverRoadresidentClevelandClipperrecalled,“(W)hentheybuiltAliceDeal[atFortReno],theymovedourchurchtomakeroomfortheroad.34RiverRoadcommunitytiestoRCBCbegantofadeinthe1930sasanewgenerationfeltlesstiedtoitandthechangesinTenleytownledtoRCBC’seventualmove.Anewchurchfilledthevacuum:MacedoniaBaptistChurch.ParishionersoftheMacedoniaBaptistChurchdateitsfoundingin1920"intheupstairsroomatthehomeofDeaconHenryThomas…(the)groupwasledbytheReverendWillMason."TheseearlychurchmeetingstookplaceinScotland,MarylandwherebothRev.MasonandDeaconThomaslived.35In1928theReverendWilliamA.MasonpurchasedpropertyforthechurchonElmStreetnearArlingtonRoadinMiller'sAdditions(Miller'sFlats),anearlyBethesdasubdivisionwhichranbetweenWisconsinAvenueandArlingtonRoadalongBethesdaAvenue.The1931Klinglerealestatemapshowsachapelatthatlocationonalongnarrowlot.ThechapelwasclosetotherailroadandseveralcoalandbuildingmaterialsbusinesseswhereAfricanAmericanswereemployed,manyrecruitedbyCharlesMillerfromNorthCarolina.TheMiller'sflatslocationwouldalsohavebeenatrolleyrideawayfromtheRiverRoadcommunitywhereClevelandClipper,thesonofWilliamClipper,lived.Clipperrecollected:

That'swherethatchurchgotstarted,too.WillMasonusedtobeupthereinMiller'sFlats,builtachurchrightthereonBethesdaAvenue.Itwasahousechurch,buttheyraisedtheroofandputasteepleon.DeaconThomaslivedinScotland,usedtocomedownthere.Itwasthereforsometime.Iusedtogoupthere.36

Atthistime,layministerswithinthecommunitywerealsoactive.TheseniorClevelandClipper,whopurchasedlandalongRiverRoadin1908,wasknowntohavevisitedtheCivilianConservationCorpscampsasavolunteerpreacherinthe1930s.AndRichardChristian,oneoftheRiverRoadLions

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pitchers,grewuptobeapreacheraccordingtoClevelandClipper.“(Richard's)apreachernow.IshowedhimhowtothrowacurveballandItaughthiminSundaySchool,too.”37MacedoniaBaptistChurch(MBC)latermovedtoRiverRoadfromMiller’sFlats.In1936,theRev.WilliamA.JonesandhiswifesoldBessieHatton,aRiverRoadresident,0.71acreoflandsouthwestofRiverRoad.ThelandwascontiguouswiththeWhite'sTabernacleNo.39cemeterylot.In1937,onesixthofanacre(or7,117.17squarefeet)withinthispropertywasdeededtoMBC.BerniceDove,relatedtoRev.MasonthroughhermotherMaudeMason,confirmedthatMBCwasoriginallylocatedinthecommunityneartheTabernaclecemetery(whereTalbert’sIce&Beverageisnowlocated)beforemovingacrossthestreet.ShealsorecalledthatallMBCchurchmemberswerebaptizedupinSenecaCreekneartheoldquarryandthattherewerestrongtiesbetweentheRiverRoadcommunityandtheGibsonGroveAfricanMethodistEpiscopalChurchinCabinJohn.38Afteraseriesoflandtransactions,theentireplotof0.71acreswassoldonApril2,1945tocommunityoutsidersRuthandBertrandAcker.39AmongthoselistedonthedeedofsaleweretheReverendWilliamMasonaspastorandDeaconsHenryThomas(whohadbeendeaconofthechurchonBethesdaAvenue),HarveyMatthewsandWilliamClipper.NearlycoincidentwiththeApril2,1945sale,WilliamClipper'shousewasconveyedonApril6,1945toMBCthroughtheRev.WilliamandAmandaMason.Thathomehadbeenbuiltin1912onlandpurchasedfromJacobWilbertin1910anditfrontedRiverRoad.In1931,WilliamClipper'spropertywasforeclosedwiththreemortgagesandauctioned.ClevelandClipperrecalledthathisfatherowedatleast$1600.40

(Hisrelative)CashParker'swifecamewithsomemoney;shemortgagedherpropertyandgotthatproperty....Thiswas1931-peoplesaidtheycouldn'tseehowhelostitworkingeveryday.CashParker'swifeboughtittokeepBillSmithfrombuyingit.Thefamilythatlivedtherein1941,theThomases,weremembersofthechurch.41

Subsequently,underReverendMason'sleadership,MacedoniaparishionersrecollectedthattheClipperhomewasrenovatedinordertoserveitscongregationasachurch.ClevelandClipperremembered:Welivedinit,alltheydidwasfinisheddiggingthecellarout.OliverClementdugthechurchbasement.Poppahaddugouthalfofthatandthrewitoutthewindowsandfilledtheyard.42

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Figure9:MacedoniaBaptistChurchstillstandsat5119RiverRoadinBethesda.PhotographbyAmy

Rispin,2016.TheMacedoniaBaptistChurch,knownasthe“LittleChurchontheHill,”stillstandsonthecornerofRiverRoadandClipperLaneasalastingreminderoftheRiverRoadAfricanAmericancommunityitserved.Education:FoundationforaBetterFutureIntheirseminalpieceTheHistoryofBlackPublicSchoolsofMontgomeryCounty,Maryland:1872-1961,ClarkeandBrownspokeofthevalueofeducationtoAfricanAmericansofthecounty.

“Coloredpeople…possesseddeepfaithinthepowerofeducationtobringaboutchangeintheirstatusandinthequalityoftheirpersonallives.Theyfelteducationwaskeytomanyoftheencumbrancesthatboundthem.”43

Afterfoundingtheirchurches,mostAfricanAmericancommunitiesthenestablishedschoolsandotherinstitutions.Forexample,inTenleytownchurchesandanAfricanAmericancemeterywereestablishedduringtheperiod1872-1899andtheJesseRenoColoredSchoolwasestablishedin1903;inCabinJohntheGibsonGroveAfricanMethodistEpiscopalChurchanditscemeterywerefoundedin1872andaschoolestablishedin1880.44SimilarlyeducationwasafundamentalpillaroftheRiverRoadcommunity.

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Asearlyas1867,AfricanAmericanshadacquiredlandtobuildschoolsfortheirchildren.In1872theMarylandGeneralAssemblyappropriated$50,000tosupport“colored”schoolsandstipulatedthat$532.05wouldbepaidquarterlytoMontgomeryCounty.TheMontgomeryCountyBoardofEducationthendecidedtherewouldbeoneschoolperelectiondistrictandin1880theCabinJohnColoredSchoolwasestablishedintheseventhdistrict,whichalsocontainedBethesdaandtheRiverRoadarea.45OnRiverRoad,thereareafewdiscrepanciesastowhenaschoolwasactuallyestablished.Before1880,onlyafewadultsintheRiverRoadcommunitycouldreadorwrite,includingWilliamBrooks,husbandofJaneRivers,andWilliamH.Brown,husbandofMaryHall.ClarkeandBrowngive1912astheyearwhenthecountyformallyestablishedaschoolonRiverRoad,yettheyalsonotethatattheendofthedecadeofthe1880sadelegationofRiverRoadpatronsproposedtotheBoardofEducationtofurnishaschoolandthattheboardagreedtopayforteachersalaryandincidentals.Oralhistoryandcensusdatagivesomesupporttothisearlierschooldate.ClevelandClipperspokeofanold“slaveschool”ontheLoughboroughpropertyandsaidthathisAuntStella(EstelleWarrenHarris),bornin1884,wenttoschoolthereasachild.Shewouldhavebeenaboutfiveyearsoldin1889or1890.Inaddition,accordingtothe1900CensusthreeRiverschildrenagestwelvethroughfifteenwere“atschool”.ClevelandClipperfurthernotedthatin1912theBoardofEducationpaidRiverRoadresidentFrankWood,sonofformerslaveMaryAnnWood,foruseofhishomeasaschoolandthecountyprovidedateacherandsupplies.46In1925,afterdecadesofrepeatedrequestsfromtheRiverRoadcommunityforaschoolbuilding,theMontgomeryCountyBoardofEducationpurchased1.85acresoflandatacut-ratewhenitboughtpropertythathadbeenseizedfromEdwardWarrenfornonpaymentofaloan(thelandhadbeeninheritedfromWilliamWarrenandheldbybanktrustees).FollowingthepracticeofAfricanAmericancommunitiesofprovidinglandforschools,ClevelandClipper,Sr.andtheTurner,Burns,BrooksandHarrisfamiliesfiledquitclaimsforlandadjacenttoWarren'sproperty.Thesequitclaimsamountedtodonationsofadditionalsmalllandholdingstothecountyboardofeducation.AccordingtotheFiskUniversity'sRosenwaldFoundationwebsite,theRiverRoadcommunitycontributed$500infundsandthecounty$4580inland,whiletheFoundationcontributed$900tobuildaschoolfortheRiverRoadcommunity.In1925theBoardofEducationdesignatedClevelandClipperastrusteeoftheRiverRoadColoredSchool.Duringthe1925/1926yearanewthreeteacher/two-roomschoolbuildingwasconstructedonthesite.47

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Figure10:TheRiverRoadColoredSchool.Courtesy,MontgomeryCountyHistoricalSociety.

ManyMarylandstudentswholivedneartheDistrictofColumbiaoftenfoundawaytoenrollinthesuperiorschoolsoftheDistrictofColumbiatofurthertheireducation;forAfricanAmericanstudents,itwasameanstolearnbeyondtheearlyyearsinitiallyprovidedbyMontgomeryCounty.In1904theMontgomeryCountyBoardofEducationhadpassedanordereffectivelylimitingtheeducationofblackchildrentofifthgrade;by1939theRiverRoadColoredSchoolincludedyearssixandseven.48MembersoftheRiverRoadcommunity,likeyoungClevelandClipperandGeraldHatton,wenttoDCschoolsanddidsousingaddressesoffamilyorfriendsacrosstheborder.AsGeraldHattonofthecommunityrecounted,aftercompletingseventhgradelocallyinabout1932attheRiverRoadColoredSchool,

“DCschools,evensegregated,werebetterqualitythanthesysteminMaryland.AnditwaseasierthangoingtoRockville…WewalkedtoWisconsinandWesternandhadthree-centticketsforthestreetcar…FrancisJuniorHighSchoolinGeorgetownwasnewatthattime[builtin1927].Wehadchemicallabs,(and)science;Ilearnedtotypeinthe8thgrade.WewalkedWillardAvenueatnighttogethomefromschool.IskippedgradesatRiverRoadandwenttoHowardat16.”49

In1948,theMarylandNationalCapitalParkandPlanningCommission(MNCPPC)usedtheRiverRoadschoolasasummerrecreationcenter,thusallowingteacherstohaveasummerincomeandutilizingthecommunityspace.50TheSupremeCourtrulingBrownvs.BoardofEducationin1954broughttoanendseparateschoolsforcoloredandwhitestudents.ThefollowingyeartheBoardofEducationclosed

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theRiverRoadColoredSchoolandtheAfricanAmericanchildrenofthecommunitywalkedorwerebusedtointegratedschools.Locally,MargaretA.Wood,granddaughterofMaryAnnWood,theformerCounselmanslave,andtheyoungestdaughterofFrankWood,inwhosehometheearly1912RiverRoadColoredSchoolwaspossiblyhoused,attendedMontgomeryCounty’sfirstcoloredhighschoolwhichwasestablishedin1927inRockville.Shewasoneofninestudentsinthefirstgraduatingclassof1931.51UpongraduationshetaughtattheBrickyardColoredSchoolnearPotomac,Maryland,theCabinJohnColoredSchool,andfinallytheRiverRoadschool.InSeptember1955Ms.WoodwasamongthefirstblackteacherstobeassignedtotheClaraBartonElementarySchoolafterdesegregationinthecounty.SupportfortheLivingandtheDeadThelastpillarofacommunityisthewebofsupportavailabletoitintimesofneed.Asnotedearlier,theearlyfoundingfamiliesadoptedorremarriedasmeanstokeeplandandfamiliesintactwhenhardshipstruck.AftertheCivilWar,AfricanAmericansecretorbenevolentsocietiesaroseasaninformalinsurancesystemforthoseotherwisediscriminatedagainstbynationalinsurancecompanies.ThenumberofthesesocietiesinAfricanAmericancommunitiesincreasedrapidlyinthelate19thcentury;theirmembersderivedbenefitswheninhardshipaswellasexperiencedstatusandpositionintheircommunitiesthroughtheirmembership.InGeorgetown,historiansLeskoandothersobservedtheinterconnectednessinthatthrivingAfricanAmericancommunitybetweenitschurchesandtheirsocial,fraternalandbenevolentorganizations.52W.E.B.Duboisspecificallynoted

Theirrealfunctionistoprovideafundforreliefincaseofsicknessandforfuneralexpenses.Theburdenwhichwouldotherwisefallononepersonorfamily,is,bysmallregularcontributions,madetofallonthegroup.Thisbusinessfeatureisthenmadeattractivebyaritual,ceremonies,officers,oftenaregalia,andvarioussocialfeatures.53

OnesuchbenevolentsocietythataroseinTenleytownwasWhite’sTabernacleNo.39,alocalbranchoftheAncientUnitedOrderoftheBrothersandSisters,SonsandDaughtersofMoses.ThelodgeismentionedinEveningStarnewspapersinthe1890s.ItsformalDistrictincorporationdocumentofAugust1910notedthelodge’spurpose“tomutuallybenefitthemembers,careforthesick,burythedead,andotherwiseaidmembersofthesocietywhomaybeinneedordistress.”54TrusteeswereLorenzoHarris,RobertDorsey,JohnA.Morton,CharlesH.Brown,JohnL.Hyson,AllenLewisandJeremiahBotts.Newsitems,buildingpermits,oldticketsandoralhistoryhelppiecetogetherapictureofanorganizationthatprovideditsmemberswithbothsocialactivitiesandassistance.TheRockCreekBaptistChurch,thehallbehindit,theFortRenoColoredSchool,andfurthernortheastanAfricanAmericangraveyardwereallashortdistanceofeachother.(SeeFigure12)From1899to1921recordedcitypermitsforrepairofthesocialhalllocatedat3810DennisonStreetshowaprogressionofownershipforthehall,fromtheAmos(Hill)LodgetotheMasonicHallAssociationtotheBrothersandSistersofMoses#39.Infact,brothersAndrewA.WoodandWilliamDanielWoodoftheRiverRoadcommunityandRev.WilliamA.JonesaschaplainwereallinvolvedintheJamesH.Hill

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LodgeofFreeandAcceptedMasons(FAAM)attheturnofthecentury.FormerRenoCityresidentsrememberedthesocialcluboftheBrothersandSistersofMosesLodgeasmemorable:“WhiteandblackresidentsrecalledhearingsinginganddancingcomingfromthelodgeonSaturdaynights.”55

Figure12:1907BaistmapofTenleytownwithRockCreekBaptistChurch,MosesHall,Colored

School&Graveyardindicated.Courtesy,LibraryofCongress.JonesdiscoveredmoreaboutthesocialaspectoftheOrderofMosesinherresearchonanotherMosesLodgeintheGibsonGrovecommunityinCabinJohn,Maryland,justdownthewayfromtheRiverRoadcommunity.ThiswastheMorningstarTabernacleNo.88lodge,ledandorganizedbyElijahHarris,theelderbrotherofRiverRoadcommunitymemberPeterHarris,husbandtoEstelleWarren.AccordingtoJones’researchandinterviewswithcommunitydescendants,inparticularwithSadieHarris,alltheheadsofthecommunity’sfamiliesbelongedtotheorder.TheMosesHall,atwo-levelbuildinglocatednexttotheGibsonGroveA.M.E.Church,hostedlodgemeetingstwiceamonthonWednesdayeveningsand,likeitscounterpartlodgeinTenleytown,hosted“allthesocialevents,dancesanddinners.”Moreimportantly,SadieHarris’smemoriesprovideinsightintoanorganizationthatwassecretive.Therewerejuvenile,maleadult,andfemaleadultdivisionsoftheorganization.SadieasachildwasinitiatedintotheorganizationinDC.EachMorningstarTabernaclememberpaida

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portionofdueswhenheattendedmeetingsothatmemberswereaffordedtheprivilegeofbeingburiedintheMosesCemeteryofthatlodge.56ItispossiblethatSadiewasinitiatedinTenleytownattheMosesHallthere.Ascanbeseeninthe1907BaistmapofTenleytowninFigure12,thegraveyardwaslocatednotfarfromRCBCandtheMosesHallbehindit.ThecemeterywaslinkedtoWhite’sTabernacleNo.39inanumberofwaysandappearedtoservetheorganization’sgoalof“burythedead.”First,trusteeRobertDorseyisnamedinDistrictcitydirectoriesduringthe1880sasbeingsexton,orcaretaker,forthecemetery.Second,trusteeLorenzoHarrisisalsoassociatedwiththelodgeindelinquenttaxlistsprintedinnewspapersof1896.Third,andmostimportantly,White’sTabernacleNo.39heldthedeedtothecemeteryland.ThecemeteryhadmanynamesaccordingtoPaulSluby,butthe1900funeralannouncementforRCBC’sformerpastorReverendChampcalleditthe“MosesCemetery”.Theburialgroundwasestablishedin1881andSlubycitesaRCBCreportsaying147burialsoccurredtherebetween1883-1910.In1910,thelodgesoldthegraveyard(onthelotcalledChappellsVacancy)totheChevyChaseLandCompanyforthedevelopmentof37thStreetbetweenRenoRoadandConnecticutAvenue.(ThisstreetisnowknownasChevyChaseParkway.)57RecentresearchbyTorreyandGreenonthedescendantsofGeorgePointerinWashingtonCounty,DCpointtoadditionaltiesbetweentheTabernacletrustees.LorenzoHarriswasmaternaluncletoJohnA.Morton,andneighborstoMortonincludedtrusteesJohnL.HysonandRobertDorseyoffBroadBranchRoad.58InordertoremovebodiesfromTenleytownandreinterthemelsewhere,White’sTabernacleNo.39in1911purchasedlandalongRiverRoad.DeedrecordsindicatethatFrankandKatieDodson,heirstofounderCharlotteGray’sland,soldthelandtothelodge.ThepropertylabelledWhite’sTabernacleNo.39canbeseeninthe1917KlinglerealestatemapinFigure13.InotherpartsofMontgomeryCountyAfricanAmericansocietieswerealsopurchasinglandforcemeteryuse.Forexample,in1917theEurekaTabernacle#29oftheOrderofGalileanFishermenpurchasedlandtocreateLincolnParkCemeteryinRockville.Soonafterthe1911TabernaclepurchaseinMaryland,theMontgomeryPressnoted“apetitionwasreceived[byCountyCommissioners]fromJamesH.LoughboroughandothersprotestingagainsttheestablishingofacemeteryonRiverRoadnearBethesdaforcoloredpersonsfromtheDistrictofColumbia”.59

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Figure13:1917KlinglemapofRiverRoadwithhighlightedTabernaclecemeterylotandother

propertyowners.Courtesy,MontgomeryCountyHistoricalSociety.ReintermentoftheTenleytowncemeterywasproblematicasDClawforbadediggingupormovingbodies.In1914theWashingtonPostreported

TherehavebeennointermentstheresinceJuly,1910.ThoughtheownersofthecemeterydesiretotransferthebodiestoanewlocationinMaryland,thelawsoftheDistrictmakethisimpossiblewithoutaspecialactofCongress.….Sincethiscemeteryisacemeteryofanestablishedfraternalorder,therewouldseemtobenoobjectiontoallowingtheremovaloftheremainsofthosememberswhohavebeenburiedintheDistricttosuchothercemeteryasmay

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beestablishedbytheorder,eventhoughthatcemeterybebeyondtheconfinesoftheDistrictofColumbia.”60

CongressfinallypermittedremovalofthecemeterywithPublicLaw112in1921.Presumably,White’sTabernacleremovedthebodiesandreinterredthemintheRiverRoadMosesCemeteryinshortorder.Unfortunately,despiteareviewofDCreinternmentpermitsandcontactswithfuneralhomes,norecordsofthemovementofthebodieshavebeenlocatedtodate.Followingruralburialpracticesbefore1920,manyfamiliesburiedtheirdeadlocallyinfamilyplotsonpersonalproperty.AscanbeseeninFigure14,deedandmapresearchhasidentifiedatleastsixfamilyburialplots,bothwhiteandAfricanAmerican,inaone-mileradiusaroundtheRiverRoadCommunity,ofwhichonlyoneisofficiallyrecognizedbyMontgomeryCounty.TheseburialplotsincludethoseofthefamiliesofSamuelShoemaker,IsaacShoemaker,JacobWilbert,NelsonWood,LouisSolyamandSamuelBusey.Inaddition,evidencepointstotheexistenceofacommunitygraveyardlocatedonthewestbankoftheWillettBranchwhichpredatesthepurchaseofthelandbyWhite’sTabernacleNo.39in1911.WillsoffoundingRiverRoadcommunitymembersNelsonWarren,Sr.,WilliamWarren,CharlotteGray,andJaneRiversBrooks,allofwhomlivedonthewestsideofRiverRoad,citedeathsbetween1887and1910.AndtheDCdeathrecordforNelsonWarren,Sr.citeshisburialinMontgomeryCounty,Maryland.ItislikelythattheseburialstookplacelocallyatthisgraveyardnearRiverRoad,echoingthepracticesofthosesurroundingthem.61

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Figure14:ThismapidentifiestheMosesCemeteryandsmallfamilyburialplotslocatedwithinaone-mileradiusoftheRiverRoadcommunitysite.OnlyoneiscurrentlylistedontheMontgomery

County,MarylandCemeteriesInventorylist.Courtesy,PaulRispin.AttheRiverRoadMosesCemeterymaintainedbyWhite’sTabernacleNo.39,deathnoticesbetween1910and1935indicatednewburials.Inparticular,the1935deathnoticeforCoraBottssuggestsanetworkbetweenthelodge,RockCreekBaptistChurchandtheRiverRoadcommunity.First,Botts’deathnoticementionsfuneralofficiateRev.WilliamArmsteadJonesandRockCreekBaptistChurch.ItalsoindicatesherfamilialrelationshiptonephewCassiusParkeroftheRiverRoadcommunity.Third,thenoticeexplicitlymentionsCora’sdeceasedhusbandJeremiah(Jerry)Botts,aWhite’sTabernacletrusteenamedinthe1910incorporationdocument,andinvitesallTabernaclememberstoattendtheceremony.Finally,weknowfromcensusanddeedrecordsthatCoraBottsnotonlywasaformerRiverRoadcommunityresidentfrom1880,butthatshealsoboughtahomenearDorseyLaneandRiverRoadin1922andresidedthereuntilherdeath.AnotherfuneralannouncementforTabernacletrusteeCharlesH.Brown,whodied1912,indicatesburialintheMosesCemetery,Friendship,aswell.62OralhistoryfurthercorroboratestheexistenceoftheRiverRoadMosesCemetery.Gravestoneswereobservedinthecemeteryaslateasthe1950sbyHarveyMatthews,whogrewuponRiverRoadand

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attendedtheRiverRoadColoredSchool.Herecountsplayingamongthegravestonesasachildinthe1950sandevensleddeddownthecemeteryhill.InhisinterviewswithWilliamOffutt,ClevelandClipperalsodescribedtheexistenceofacemeteryalongtheWillettBranchthatbelongedtotheMosesLodgeandtheuseofOutletRoadforfunerals.63AMysteryRemainsDevelopmentpressuresalongRiverRoadandontheothersideoftheWillettBranchinWestwoodinthelate1950sledtothedemise,disturbanceandpossibledesecrationoftheRiverRoadMosesCemetery.In1957theWashingtonSuburbanSanitaryCommissionobtainedaright-of-waythroughthecemeterylandtostraightenandhardentheWillettBranch.TrusteesforWhite’sTabernacleNo.39soldthecemeterylandin1958toDr.LeoFurr,anephewofarearealestateinvestorWilliamCarrigan.FurrsubsequentlytransferredownershipofthepropertytohisuncleCarrigan.64Arethesedeedscorrect?WhereisFurr/Carrigantransfer?WhathappenedtothegravesoftheRiverRoadMosesCemetery?TothewestofthecemeterylandLaszloTauberandhisassociatesdevelopedtheWestwoodShoppingCenterandWestbardAvenueinthelate1950s.Anaerialphotographfrom1963showstheextentofdevelopmentandsuggeststhatfillwasplacedontheeastsideofWestbardAvenuetobuildaparkinglot.Thesamephotoalsosuggeststhatfillwasplacedontopofportionsofthecemeteryland.ClevelandClipper’soralaccountsupportsthisassessment:“WhentheydugthemhillsouttomakeWestover,theydumpedallthatdirtinthere.”65AspartofTauber’sconstructionofWestwoodTowers,locatedat5401WestbardAvenue,heandhisassociatesbeganleasingthecemeterylandonthewestsideoftheWillettBranchfromWilliamCarrigan(andlatertheInternationalEyeFoundation)in1967.Tauberultimatelypurchasedthelandoutrightin1988.CarriganhadpreviouslygiventhatportionofthecemeteryontheeastsideoftheWillettBranchtotheCatholicMedicalMissionariesin1968.66BothSlubyandOffuttstatethatgravesfromtheRiverRoadMosesCemeteryweremovedtootherlocationssuchastheLincolnParkCemeteryoranothercemeterywestofRockville,MarylandnearRoute28,buttodatethesemoveshavenotbeenconfirmedbystateorcountyrecords,funeralhomerecordsorcemeteryrecords.EventsduringtheconstructionoftheWestwoodTowerssuggestthatatleastsomeremainswereneverremovedfromtheRiverRoadMosesCemetery.EyewitnessesrecountedgrislyeventsinarecentWashingtonPostarticle.TimBonds,whosefatheroperatedagasstationneartheMosesCemeterylocation,recalledthatduringtheexcavationofWestwoodTowers“Whentheyfoundabody,they’dblowawhistleandthey’dshutthejobdown”andthat“themen(talked)abouthumanremainsbeingpushedbackunderthedirt,downasteepslopetowardastormsewer,soexcavationcouldresumemorequickly.”ThearticlefurthernotedthatinaninterviewbetweenMontgomeryCountyParkhistoriansandArnoldd’Epagnier,thesonofthearchitectofWestwoodTowers,d’Epagnierremembered“ridingapickuptruckwithhisfatherandafamilypriest,‘takingburlapbagswithbones’

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fromtheconstructionsitetoHowardChapel,ahistoricallyblackcemeteryinruralnorthernMontgomery.”67D’Epagnierlaterretractedhisstatement.ConclusionThehistoryoftheRiverRoadAfricanAmericancommunityparallelsthehistoryofmanyAfricanAmericancommunities.AftertheCivilWar,familiesandfriendspurchasedmarginallandandestablishedaworkingcommunitybuiltonthepillarsoffaith,educationandsupport.Intime,demandsforthislandbroughtoutsiderspeculationandperhapsotheropportunitiesandthecommunitymovedon.Today,MacedoniaBaptistChurchistheonlytangiblereminderofthisforgottencommunity.ThemysteryofwhathappenedtothegravesoftheRiverRoadMosesCemeteryremainsaswell,andinthewakeofnewareadevelopmentchallengesitisimperativethatthemysterybesolvedandrespectgiventothosewhooccupiedthislandinbothlifeanddeath.

1JudithBeckHelm,Tenleytown,DC:CountryVillagetoCityNeighborhood(Washington:TennallyPress;2000),9-10.2ElizabethKytle,HomeontheCanal(CabinJohn:SevenLocksPress;1983);RichardK.MacMasterandRayEldenHiebert,AGratefulRemembrance:theStoryofMontgomeryCounty,Maryland,1776-1996(Rockville,MD:MontgomeryCountyGovernment;1976),p.113-117.3LillianS.Brown,interviewwithMaryAnneTouheyandMarjorieZapruder,ChevyChaseHistoricalSociety,1990.4Deed,SmithtoS.Shoemaker,Nov.20,1832,BookBS5,p.379,LandRecords,1838-1839,MSACE148-35,MontgomeryCountyCircuitCourt,Rockville,MD;Deed,SmithtoC.Shoemaker,Dec.15,1841,BookBS10,p.587,LandRecords,1839-1842,MSACE148-36;Deed,SmithtoI.Shoemaker,Sept.24,1839,BookBS9,p.533,LandRecords,1838-1839,MSACE148-35;Deed,I.ShoemakertoH.Ball,Dec.1,1846,BookSTS2,p.306,LandRecords,1846-1847,MSACE148-40;Deed,I.ShoemakertoA.Eld,July19,1854,BookJGH3,p.320,LandRecords,1853-1854,MSACE63-3;Deed,I.ShoemakertoC.E.Perry,Nov.27,1854,BookJGH4,p.111,LandRecords,1854-1855,MSACE63-4.5WillofSamuelCounselman,June20,1849,WillBookWTR2:324,RegisterofWills,Rockville,MD.6Deed,ChappelltoRay,Jan.29,1850,BookSTS4,p.371,LandRecords,1849-1850,MSACE148-42;Deed,B.toB.andJ.Ray,July24,1857,BookJGH3,p.322;1853-1854,MSACE63-3.7Deed,BuseyandBrooktoLoughborough;June9,1820,BookV,p.170,LandRecords,1819-1822,MSACE148-23;Deed,ValdeneartoLoughborough;Jan.29,1822,BookV,p.600,LandRecords,1819-1822,MSACE148-23;Deed,SmithtoLoughborough,Mar.7,1839,BookBS9,p.304,LandRecords,1838-1839,MSACE148-35;Loughborough,Margaret,“NathanLoughborough,”RecordsoftheColumbiaHistoricalSociety,vol.24(1922).8Deed,TrusteetoPosey,Nov.20,1837,BookBS8,p.483,LandRecords,1836-1838,MSACE148-34.9MacMasterandHiebert,Grateful,125-126.10Deed,TrusteetoJ.H.Loughborough,Jan.7,1869,BookEBP6,p.63,LandRecords,1868-1869,MSACE63-16.11NinaClarke,“BlackHistoryinMontgomeryCounty,”inExcerptsfromTheFloweroftheForest–BlackGenealogicalJournal,134.(MontgomeryCountyHistoricalSociety,Rockville,MD)

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12Deed,J.RaytoGrayandHall,Nov.16,1869,BookEBP7,p.422,LandRecords,1869-1870,MSACE63-17;Deed,RaystoRivers,Aug.3,1870,BookEBP7,p.444,LandRecords,1869-1870,MSACE63-17;Deed,RaystoJackson,Aug.3,1870,BookEBP7,p.443,LandRecords,1869-1870,MSACE63-17;Deed,RaystoW.Warren,Jan.14,1873,BookEBP10,p.275,LandRecords,1872-1873,MSACE63-20;Deed,RaystoN.Warren,Oct.7,1873,BookEBP11,p.242,LandRecords,1873-1874,MSACE63-21;Deed,CounselmantoBurley,Nov.5,1872,BookEBP10,p.165,LandRecords,1872-1873,MSACE63-20;Deed,CounselmantoWood,Nov.4,1873,BookEBP11,p.282,LandRecords,1873-1874,MSACE63-21.13Deed,LoughboroughtoWard,Dec.23,1873,BookEBP10,p.248,LandRecords,1872-1873,MSACE63-20;Deed,RaytoWillett,Sept.29,1874,BookEBP12,p.382,LandRecords,1874-1874,MSACE63-22;Deed,CrowntoSolyam,Feb.1,1875,BookEBP13,p.123,LandRecords,1874-1875,MSACE63-23;Deed,CounselmantoWilbert,Oct.9,1877,BookEBP17,p.128,LandRecords,1877-1878,MSACE63-27.14JamesJohnston,TheRecollectionsofMargaretCabellBrownLoughborough;ASouthernWoman’sMemoriesofRichmond,VA,andWashington,DCintheCivilWar(Lanham,MD:HamiltonBooks,2010)23;Offutt,Bethesda,247;MartinLeibenluft,“ASurveyofSlaveQuartersinMontgomeryCounty,Maryland,”unpublishedthesis,2004;JudithHelmRobinson,photoof“NoGainCabin,”1988,Itemno.1988.08.07,ChevyChaseHistoricalSociety.15TimDenneeandtheFriendsofFreedmen’sCemetery,“EnslavedPersonsinthe1855-1862TaxAssessmentsofWashingtonCounty,DC,”(2012)http://www.freedmenscemetery.org/resources/documents/enslaved-persons-in-washington-county-tax-assessments.pdf.16Mrs.J.ReedBradley.“VignettesofCountyWomen,”BethesdaJournal,August22,1941.17Offutt,Bethesda,22;MacMasterandHiebert,Grateful,102-103;WilliamClipper,interviewwithEdWesleyoftheNationalParkService,1967,Box6Folder28,ThomasHahnChesapeakeandOhioCanalcollection,SpecialCollectionsResearchCenter,theGeorgeWashingtonUniversity.18Offutt,Bethesda,246.19WillofCharlotteGray,October18,1886,WillBookRWC15:138,RegisterofWills,Rockville,MD;WillofJaneBrooks,Oct.22,1897,OrphansCourtWillBookGCD12:154;WillofNelsonWarren,Sr.,November13,1900,WillBookHCA8:498.20MacMasterandHeibert,Grateful,219-224;Offutt,Bethesda,78-79,88,101,148-149.21MichaelKernan,“ClippersAlongtheC&OCanal,”WashingtonPost,June8,1977.22Deed,WilberttoW.Clipper,Mar.23,1910,BookJLB212,p.159,LandRecords,1910-1910,MSACE63-170;Deed,WilberttoC.Clipper,Sept.19,1910,Book216,p.3,LandRecords,1910-1911,MSACE63-174;Deed,WilberttoI.Clipper,July25,1911,Book222,p.328,LandRecords,1911-1911,MSACE63-180.23Offutt,Bethesda,248.24Ibid,249.25Deed,HalltoBieber,Oct.31,1929,Book494,p.18,LandRecords,1929-1929,MSACE63-452;Deed,BiebertoTrustees,Mar.17,1930,Book399,p.370,LandRecords,1926-1932,MSACE63-357;Deed,QuitClaim,Jan.28,1937,Book654,p.136,LandRecords,1937-1937,MSACE63-612;Deed,EbaughtoMcInerny,July24,1939,Book740,p.347,LandRecords,1939-1939,MSA63-698;Deed,JonestoAcker,Apr.22,1940,Book776,p.69,LandRecords,1940-1940,MSACE63-734;Deed,RightofWay,June3,1940,Book780,p.190,LandRecords,1940-1940,MSACE63-738.

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26WashingtonPost,April18,1943.27Clarke,HistoryoftheNineteenth-CenturyBlackChurchesinMarylandandWashington,DC(NewYork,VantagePress;1987),8.28CarolineLoughborough,Fragments(Baltimore,MD:MargieHershLuckett,1931),5.29A.W.Pegues.OurBaptistMinistersandSchools(Springfield,MA:Willey&Company,1892,Appendix13)*Therearetwopages13inthisbook,inmainbodyandintheappendix.30PermitforrepairstoAmosLodge,latercalledMosesLodge,date29November1899.Useofbuildingnotedas“lodgemeetings”.CarolynLong,TenleytownHistoricalSociety,personalcorrespondence.31“RockCreekBaptistChurch1981AnniversaryPamphlet,”Misc.Churchfile,WashingtoniaDivision,DCPublicLibrary.32Lockett,JamesD.“AbrahamLincolnandColonization:AnEpisodethatEndsinTragedyatL’IleaVache,Haiti,1863-1864,”JournalofBlackStudies,vol.21,no.4,June1991(SagePublications,Inc.1991)428-444;A.B.Caldwell,editor.“WilliamArmsteadJones,”inTheHistoryoftheAmericanNegro,Washington,DCedition,vol.6.(Atlanta,GA:CaldwellPublishing,1922),125.33“LicensedtoMarry,”WashingtonPost,Aug.21,1907;“Died,”TheWashingtonHerald,Oct.6,1917;“Died,”EveningStar,Feb.6,1935;“DistrictofColumbiaDeaths,1874-1961,”FamilySearch(https://familysearch.org/ark:/61903/1:1:QV37-KR82:25August2014),NelsonWarren,1903;“ChurchListings”WashingtonPost,September2,1905.34Helm,Tenleytown,199,203;Offutt,245.35Clarke,History,140.36Offutt,Bethesda,289.37Ibid,429.38Deed,JonestoHatton,Oct.22,1936,Book644,p.203,LandRecords,1936-1936,MSACE63-602;Deed,HattontoMBC,May8,1937,Book668,p.121,LandRecords,1937-1937,MSACE63-626;BerniceDove,interviewwithDavidKathan,March2017.39Deed,HattonandMBCtoAcker,April2,1945,Book668,p.121,LandRecords,1937-1937,MSACE63-626.40Deed,MasontoMBC,Apr.6,1945,Book963,p.427,LandRecords,1945-1945,MSACE63-921;Deed,WilberttoW.Clipper,Mar.23,1910,Book212,p.159,LandRecords,1910-1910,MSACE63-170;Deed,W.ClippertoOwens,Sept.2,1931,Book524,p.286,LandRecords,1931-1931,MSACE63-482.41ClevelandClipper,interviewwithBillOffutt,1992.42Clarke,History,140;ClevelandClipper,interviewwithOffutt.43NinaHammondClarkeandLillianB.Brown.HistoryoftheBlackPublicSchoolsofMontgomeryCounty,Maryland,1872-1961(NewYork:VantagePress;1978)9.44Ibid,189.45ClarkeandBrown,History,4-5.46Offutt,Bethesda,245;ClarkeandBrown,History,190;Offutt,Bethesda,246.47Deed,BankTrusteestoBoardofEducation,Nov.6,1925,Book388,p.97,LandRecords,1925-1925,MSACE63-346;Deed,QuitClaim,Nov.26,1925,Book388,p.98,LandRecords,1925-1925,MSACE63-346;“NewsofSuburbsofCapital,”WashingtonPost,May23,1925.48ClarkeandBrown,History,22,65.49Offutt,Bethesda,247-8.50ClarkeandBrown,History,74.

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51Ibid,46.52A.BriscoeKoger,TheMarylandNegro:501Facts,FiguresandFanciesabouttheMarylandNegro(Baltimore,MD:Publishernotidentified;1953);AlexandraJones,“GibsonGrove:GoneButNotForgotten”(Ph.D.Diss.,UniversityofCaliforniaatBerkeley,2013),p.52-53;W.B.Gatewood,AristocratsofColor:TheBlackElite,1880-1920(Fayetteville,Arkansas:UniversityofKansasPress,2000).;KathleenLesko,ValerieBabbandCarrollR.Gibbs,BlackGeorgetownRemembered(Washington,DC:GeorgetownUniversityPress;2016).53DuBois,W.E.B.,“TheNegroofFarmvilleVirginia,”inDavidLewis,ed.,W.E.B.DuBoisaReader(NewYork:HenryHoltandCompany,1995),233.54White’sTabernacleNo.39RecordofIncorporation,September9,1910,Book27p.434,DistrictofColumbiaArchives.55“ColoredMasonicLodgeElection,”EveningStar,Dec.10,1904;“OfficersofHillLodge,No.16,F.A.A.M.,”EveningStar,Dec.16,1907;NeilF.Heyden,“TheFortRenoCommunity:TheConversionanditsCauses,”(Unpublishedpaper,AmericanUniversity,1981),TenleytownHistoricalSocietyHoldings,DCPublicLibraryTenley/FriendshipHeights,6.56Jones,“Gibson,”52.57“DoubleFuneralService,”EveningStar,8Sep1900,3;RealEstateTransfers,“ChappellsVacancy”,EveningStar,October29,1910;PaulE.Sluby,BuryMeDeep:BurialPlacesPastandPresentinandNearbyWashington,DC(P.E.Sluby,2009).58BarbaraBoyleTorreyandClaraMyrickGreen,“FreeBlackPeopleofWashingtonCounty,DC,”WashingtonHistory,vol.28,no.1(Spring2016).59Deed,DodsontoWhite’s,Jan.23,1911,Book218,p.26,LandRecords,1911-1911,MSACE63-176;“CountyCommissioners”,MontgomeryPress,January20,1911.60“CemeteryAbandonmentApprovedbyCityHeads,”EveningStar,August1,1914;“DistrictBoardFavorsRemovalofBodiesfromCemeteryinCity”WashingtonPost,Aug.2,1914.61MontgomeryCountyPlanningDepartment,“MontgomeryCountyCemeteryInventory,”http://www.montgomeryplanning.org/historic/education/cemeteries_locational.shtm.62Deed,ShoemakertoBotts,Feb.9,1922,Book312,p.291,LandRecords,1921-1922,MSACE63-270;“DeathNotices,”EveningStar,February6,1935;“DeathNotices,”TheWashingtonTimes,Sept.11,1912.63HarveyMatthews,interviewwithDavidKathan,Sept.2016;Offutt,Bethesda,245.64Deed,White’stoWSSC,May10,1957,Book2350,p.453,LandRecords,1957-1957,MSACE63-2308;Deed,White’stoFurr,Aug.19,1958,Book2493,p.15,LandRecords,1958-1958,MSACE2451.65Offutt,Bethesda,245.66Deed,FurrtoTauber,Jan.29,1968,Book3707,p.508,LandRecords,MSACE63-3665;Deed,CarrigantoSociety,Dec.27,1968,Book3820,p.724,LandRecords,1968-1968,MSACE63-3778;Deed,InternationalEyetoTauber,Apr.12,1988,Book8223,p.821,LandRecords,1988-1988,MSACE63-8181.67BillTurque,“‘BattlefieldofMemory’:AsphaltWhereaBlackCemeteryisSaidtoHaveStood,”WashingtonPost,February23,2017.


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