Download - Waves
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Characteristics of All Wind-generated Waves
Deep Water Waves
Shallow Water Waves
Other Water Waves
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Crest, trough, wavelength
Wave Height (H)
Wave Steepness
Period (T)
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A wave in water depth > one-half wavelength
Sea vs. swell
What determines wave height?
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Waves in water depth less than 1/20 of wavelength
Often associated with surf zone
Variety of surf depends on shape of bottom◦ Plunging◦ Spilling◦ Surging
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spilling
plunging
surging
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Deep water wave◦ Speed = 1.56T
Shallow water wave◦ Speed = 3.1 times square root of water depth
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Bending of wave crests Waves approach beach at angle One part of crest reaches shallow water first
and slows down Waves become more parallel to shore
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Wave Refraction
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note distribution of wave energy most of energy strikes headlands causes erosion of headland, deposition in
bays coastal straightening occurs
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disturbance of ocean floor speed greater than 700 km/hr wavelength greater than 200 km crests can exceed 30 m as reach shore
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http://nctr.pmel.noaa.gov/
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