Draft for Comments - International Version

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DISCLAIMER

The designations employed and the presentation of the material in this publication do not

imply the expression of any opinion whatsoever on the part of PUMA concerning the legal

status of any country, territory, city or area or of its authorities, or concerning delimitation

of its frontiers or boundaries. Moreover, the views expressed do not necessarily represent

the decision or the stated policy of PUMA, nor does citing of individual companies, trade

names or commercial processes constitute endorsement. The factories and individuals

using this guideline shall ensure utmost care and diligence in implementing any

suggestions, recommendations in this guideline, and PUMA shall not be held

accountable.

DRAFT FOR COMMENTS – INTERNATIONAL VERSION

This is a draft for comment of the Waste Volume of the Sustainability Guidelines

(International Version); a four-part volume series which has been developed as part of

PUMA’s SAVE project. The guideline will be used as a reference manual by the footwear,

apparel and accessories industry to implement resource efficiency and cleaner production

measures. It should be noted that after the International version is finalized, a localized

annex will be created for Bangladesh, Cambodia, China and Indonesia. This draft version

is open for comments, you are welcome to contact us at save@puma.com

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PREFACE

This sustainability guideline is an industry specific knowledge resource developed to

address the sustainability management program in the Footwear, Apparel and

Accessories industry.

This guideline does not focus on the compliance requirements from Governments, Buyers

and other relevant organizations. Its main purpose is to inform any company in the FAA

value chain about the potential opportunities and best practices in the areas of resource

efficiency and cleaner production.

The subject of Sustainability Management is a vast domain. This guideline focuses on

only four components, namely, Energy Management, Green House Gas Reduction,

Water Conservation and Waste Management. The guideline will have four volumes such

as Energy, Water, Waste and Resource Efficiency- Cleaner Production & Management

System.

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This guideline is developed as part of a PUMA sustainability project; SAVE. “Sustainable

Action and Vision for a better Environment” (SAVE) is a PPP (Public Private Partnership)

project jointly co-financed by DEG, co-financed and implemented by PUMA in

cooperation with H&M and ASSIST (Asia Society for Social Improvement and

Sustainable Transformation).

This guideline was prepared by ASSIST and PUMA with inputs from technical experts,

namely Enviro Consultants Ltd and Reset Carbon. The document is intended to be a

generic guideline and companies are suggested to use this first step in developing their

sustainability action plans for the long term.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

A. INTRODUCTION TO WASTE MANAGEMENT ................................................................................. 7

B. PATTERN OF SOLID/HAZARDOUS WASTE GENERATION & MANAGEMENT ........................... 9

C. WASTE REDUCTION OPPORTUNITIES IN TIER 1 NDUSTRY ..................................................... 14

D. WASTE REDUCTION OPPORTUNITIES IN TIER 2 & 3 INDUSTRY ............................................. 23

E. WASTE REDCUTION OPPORTUNITIES IN GENERAL FOR ALL TIERS..................................... 25

F. DETAIL EXPLANATION OF OPPORTUNITIES .............................................................................. 31

A. REFERENCES .................................................................................................................................. 42

B. LIST OF FIGURES............................................................................................................................ 43

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GLOSSARY

Abbreviations Description

CSR Corporate Social Responsibility

CA Corrective Action

CHP Combined Heat and Power

COD Chemical Oxygen Demand

ETP Effluent Treatment Plan

EVA Ethylene Vinyl Acetate

FAA Footwear, Apparel, Accessories

HW Hazardous Waste

LPG Liquefied Petroleum Gas

NF Nano-Filter

NC Non Conformance

PU Poly Urethane

PVC Poly Vinyl Chloride

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QA Quality Assurance

QC Quality Control

RO Reverse Osmosis

RECP Resource Efficiency and Cleaner Production

SOP Standard Operating Procedure

TDS Total Dissolved Solids

UF Ultra Filtration

VFD Variable Frequency Drive

VOC Volatile Organic Components

WM Waste Minimization

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A. INTRODUCTION TO WASTE MANAGEMENT

The cost of waste disposal is not just what factories pay for, either onsite or offsite disposal, but there are also other

costs such as the raw material cost, water processing, substance for processing, energy for processing, handling by

employee and waste handling. The basic principle of a good waste management system is to avoid or reduce the

consumption of raw materials and the amount of residue requiring disposal.

Waste is produced from production to storage and packaging to transportation and dissemination of commodities.

Industries need to acknowledge their accountability of the pollution caused through their operations and should

identify all possible areas of improvement including proper waste management. The concept of 3R – Reduce, Reuse,

and Recycle is gaining prominence among the large enterprises which are increasing education for their supply

chains. Different types of waste can be treated, reused and recycled to produce useful by-products and energy. 3R

can also be applied to conserve water and optimize its use. Recycling of waste leads to a reduced extraction of raw

materials and hinders depletion of natural resources. Waste is better managed by selling to certified waste recyclers

that process the waste to produce usable products. Efficient waste management reduces consumption of resources

and helps in reducing disposal of waste in open landfills which are causing air, water, and land pollution. Efficient

waste management also offers high saving opportunities for the enterprises.

This volume of the FAA Sustainability Guideline on Waste will provide a list of potential opportunities for the Footwear,

Apparel, and Accessories industries for reducing waste and potential reuse and recycle opportunities leading to cost

saving. The opportunities listed in this guideline are based on experts experience in the sector and also from the best

practices in the industry. The waste pattern and waste reduction opportunities are explained in detail for the tier 1, 2

and 3 type of factories.

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For businesses, sustainability is about ensuring long-term business success while contributing towards economic

and social development, a healthy environment and a stable society. It is rapidly moving up the agenda as a prime

business concern across the globe.

‘Sustainability’ is about ensuring long term business success while contributing towards economic and social

development, a healthy environment and a stable society. We use the term in this report to refer to the private sector’s

contribution to sustainable development — generally defined as ‘meeting the needs of the present generation without

compromising the ability of the future generations to meet their needs’.

In the footwear, apparel and accessories sector, the business case for a more sustainable supply chain is driven by

a twin goal of ensuring consumer satisfaction and reducing resource costs of production. The most significant

opportunities available through actively pursuing more sustainable approaches to business are to:

Save costs by making reductions to environmental impacts and treating employees well;

Increase revenues by improving the environment and benefiting the local economy;

Reduce risk through engagement with stakeholders;

Build reputation by increasing environmental efficiency;

Develop human capital through better human resource management;

Improve access to capital through better governance.

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B. PATTERN OF SOLID/HAZARDOUS WASTE GENERATION & MANAGEMENT

The Tier-1 suppliers generate a diverse range of wastes discrete in quantity with seasonal variations and summing

up to a bulk quantity of waste in total, whereas the Tier-2 & 3 are expected to generate wastes in bulk quantity. From

waste minimisation point of view, all wastes will attract the following broad grouping for inspection:

Production related wastes

Packing related wastes

Non product related wastes and

Discarded or off-specification products

Waste storage, transportation and disposal are controlled by a variety of legislation, both at the national and regional

levels. Most countries require that detailed waste documentation is to be retained by the facility, thus promoting a

‘duty of care’ from waste producer through to waste disposal. Facilities are responsible for identifying all waste

materials produced (solid and liquid), as well as quantities and disposal methods of their inventory. In addition,

facilities are required to identify which of these waste materials are classified as hazardous or require special

consideration.

There is a wide range of such waste products, which can be grouped as follows:

Tier 1 Textile and Footwear Sector

Textile Sector Footwear Sector

Cutting wastes

Obsolete (out of fashion)

Wooden pallets

Buffing dust

Finishing residues

Finished leather trim

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Paper sacks

Containers for bulk products

Metal drums

Plastic bags and drums

ETP sludge

Solvent based waste finish

Textile Sector (Tier 1, 2 & 3) Footwear Sector (Tier 1, 2 & 3)

Cardboard boxes

Metal rings

Plastic and paper packaging waste

End products that do not meet specifications

Food waste

Employee /General waste

Chemical contaminated packaging

Food waste

Employee /General waste

Activated Carbon wastes

Empty containers (Non Hazardous chemicals)

Pallets

Tier 2&3 Textile and Footwear Sector

Textile Sector Footwear Sector

Obsolete (out of fashion) and out of date dyes

Wooden pallets

Paper sacks

Containers for bulk products

Metal drums

Plastic bags and drums

Salt residue

Chrome trimmings & shavings

Unfinished chrome leather trims

Buffing dust

Finishing residues

Finished leather trim

ETP sludge

Solvent based waste finish

Textile Sector (Tier 1, 2 & 3) Footwear Sector (Tier 1, 2 & 3)

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Cardboard boxes

Metal rings

Yarn cones (broken or discarded)

Dye trays and supports (broken or discarded)

Used oils and lubricants

Exhausted cleaning solvents

Plastic and paper packaging waste

Rejected textile raw materials

Spilled solid/liquid products.

Chemical contaminated packaging

Food waste

Employee /General waste

Activated Carbon wastes

Empty containers (Non Hazardous chemicals)

Empty containers (Hazardous chemicals)

Pallets

In some of the factories where there are diverse range of waste, there is no structured data concerning the quantities

of these wastes generated, which, to a large extent, depend on the production capacity, the different processes that

are carried out and the nature of the waste products.

The waste management system has to be reviewed holistically from the raw material stage until recycling. Examine

to what extent, wastes are managed in the following manner, with supporting data (if there is no data, then this

becomes the premise to introduce in the sustainability project of your organization to reduce waste):

Recycled at the factory level

Sold to the waste collecting individuals for reuse or recycle

Sold to the waste recycling enterprises

Sold to the retail traders for reuse or recycle

Given away for charity

Handed over to centralized re-processing agency

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Land-filled

Incineration with or without energy recovery

Composting

Bio-gas generation

Review records of “Scrap Yard” based waste streams and arrive at specific waste generation indicators. Any waste

fetching no monetary value should become the target for setting “Objectives & Target” for the sustainability project

to reduce the waste. Typical waste generation data in different type of factories mentioned are in the below table as

a benchmark.

Waste generated in different type of factory

Factory Type Unit PUMA Weighted Value

2011 2012 2013

Footwear Waste/pair or piece in gram

176 147 122

Apparel Waste/pair or piece in gram

42 72 82

Accessories Waste/pair or piece in gram

27 23 37

Source: Summary of PUMA supplier’s eKIPs.

Waste Water and Waste Quantities in Textile Production Process

Process Benchmark (Litre/kg textile substrate)

Wool scouring 2-6

Yarn finishing (wool) 35-45

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Yarn finishing (cotton) 100-120

Yarn finishing (Synthetic Fibre) 65-85

Finishing of knitted fabrics (wool) 60-70

Finishing of knitted fabrics (cotton) 60-135

Finishing of knitted fabrics (Synthetic Fibre) 35-80

Finishing woven fabrics (wool) 70-140

Finishing woven fabrics (cotton) 50-70

Finishing woven fabrics (Synthetic Fibre) 150-80

Finishing, including printing, of woven fabric (wool) 100-180

Source: IFC-EHS Guideline “Textile Manufacturing

The following are the trend in waste generation pattern1:

Broad Waste category Tier 1 Tier 2 &3

Cardboard/paper/plastics 10-15% 3.5-4.5

Organic wastes 30-40% 6.5-10%

Hazardous wastes 1.5-6.5% 70 -85%

Non Hazardous wastes 46-84% 0.5-15%

1 Based on assessment done in few facilities done in China, Indonesia, Cambodia and Bangladesh

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C. WASTE REDUCTION OPPORTUNITIES IN TIER 1 NDUSTRY

Opportunity Description Measure Facility/Tier/ Industry

Type

Typical

Waste

Reduction

Expected

Pay-Back

Period

Use computerized layout planning system

Manual cutting process leads to significant cutting waste and useable raw materials being discarded as waste

Use computerized layout planning systems (CAD-systems) in cutting to optimize the mix of garment pieces and sizes. Could led to a yield of more than 90%. Case Study: A factory installed a system for complete automation of the cutting process. The cutting waste reduced from 20% to 12%. The investment in machine was around 450,000 USD. The saving was about 150,000 USD /year and even higher because cost was saved in reduction of raw material and energy use.

Garment Upto 8%

reduction

based on case

study

explained.

3 years.

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Opportunity Description Measure Facility/Tier/ Industry

Type

Typical

Waste

Reduction

Expected

Pay-Back

Period

Introduce some thread saving best practices

After end of each batch some thread is still left in the reel, and are not reused.

The machinists shall return all partly used reels of thread at the end of each batch/shift; store them in a thread cabinet and reallocate them as necessary. Do not allow new reels to be used when partly used ones re available (it may be necessary to keep the thread cabinet locked and allow only supervisors to dispense thread)

Garment A large

garment

manufacturer

had reduced

its

consumption

of thread by

14% since the

introduction of

thread saving

practices

Immediate

Optimize the cutting ratio.

During the production of “upper” and “lining” in the footwear manufacturing the pieces to be used as component in the shoe are cut in leather and in other material such as textile (Cotton, polyester, nylon), and coated fabrics (PU and PVC). The average cutting rates are:

- The cutting ratio in leather is generally being optimized by the operators.

- With less expensive materials, the ratio can vary from country to country: the only criterion of the footwear manufacturer is the optimization between

Footwear (The same measure could be applied for accessories factory also)

Reduction of

25 to 30% in

cut waste is

possible

Immediate

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Opportunity Description Measure Facility/Tier/ Industry

Type

Typical

Waste

Reduction

Expected

Pay-Back

Period

- Leather: 25-35% - Textile and fabrics: 20-25% Cutting rate is defined as ratio of weight of scrap to weight of raw material used.

labour cost and material cost.

Adopt “Just-in-time” manufacturing concept

In footwear manufacturing some of the components of shoe includes bottom filler (cork, foam), shanks (metal, wood, plastic), heels (polystyrene, acrylonitrile butadiene styrene), eyelet (metal, plastic), laces (leather, cotton, polyester, nylon), threads (cotton, polyester, nylon), top pieces (PVC, vulcanized rubber), fasteners (metal, plastic fibers) Every 2 to 3 years, a footwear manufacturer can consider that these components are not going to be used anymore. In that case if they cannot be sold, they become waste

The footwear manufacturer purchases most of the components on an order to order basis (just in time production concept)

Footwear (The same measure could be applied for accessories factory also)

60 to 80 % of

the outdated

unused

components

Immediate

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Opportunity Description Measure Facility/Tier/ Industry

Type

Typical

Waste

Reduction

Expected

Pay-Back

Period

Reduce waste volume for effective post handling

The generation of “Buffing Dust” is a significant source in footwear units. Handling powder for disposal is an occupational health issue and also an airborne dust issue at disposal site.

As an integral part of cyclone, multi-clone and bag-filter system, the de-dusted waste should be converted into “cake” form with an installation of cake forming machine.

Footwear Volume

reduction by >

60%

Of original

volume of dust

in loose form

to Cake

< 1 year

(also

legal)

On-site /off-site energy production using high calorific value

On-site management: wastes having high calorific value (plastic films, foils, liners, cutting waste, EVA rejects, rubber waste etc.) and with a minimum economic throughput of > 5 tonne/hr can be subjected to “Pyrolysis with Plasma” technology. The gas produced can be a fuel for oven, curing systems, boiler, etc. Off-site management: For other lower quantity of waste generation, introduce shredding at-source to reduce volume handling for transportation and

The feasibility of such technology can be evaluated either for fairly large Factory or for cluster of likeminded industries. Plasma type Pyrolysis unit is commercially now available. In order to make plasma pyrolysis technology economically viable, the energy recovery possibilities must be higher. Studies have shown that in case of 100% plastic waste pyrolyzed, the chemical energy released would be 2 to 3 times more than energy

All burnable wastes, except PVC and restriction on heavy metals in feed

40 to 45% 3 to 4

years

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Opportunity Description Measure Facility/Tier/ Industry

Type

Typical

Waste

Reduction

Expected

Pay-Back

Period

aim for sale to authorized energy producing agency.

needed to pyrolyse the raw waste. For more detail refer Section D.

Effective reuse of sewing and other spent lube oil

There is no broad material balance system to account for total sewing oil and lube oil supplied and discarded spent oil generated; all such wastes is hazardous wastes and sent to designated agency.

Improve the waste accounting system (Material Go-down and Hazardous Waste data) and explore cascade reuse of lube oil for non-sensitive rotary equipment and/or sale as fuel value by proper vendor complying with norms.

All 30 to 40% of current waste oil can be beneficially utilized

instant

Reuse of discarded plastic core, yarn cones and poly bags

The stitching and embroidery sections generate various sizes of discarded plastic cones and cores. There is no proper segregation and waste accounting system, as how much goes to landfill and how much reused through vendors.

These wastes are to be prevented in entering landfill. Proper segregation and waste accounting system has to be established. Explore “Take Back Policy” with accessories suppliers. For any residual wastes, identify secondary plastic product manufacturers for post extrusion and value added product formation.

All stitching & embroidery

3 to 5%

reduction in

waste going to

landfill

< 6

months

Re-use of Cutting wastes

In the factories where applicable, in some cases there is no segregation for large cut pieces

Segregate small and fine cut pieces from large; then

Cutting & embroidery sections

2 to 5%

reduction in

6 months

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Opportunity Description Measure Facility/Tier/ Industry

Type

Typical

Waste

Reduction

Expected

Pay-Back

Period

and small & fine cut pieces for securing value addition

introduce proper waste accounting system. For large cut pieces identify proper vendors for reuse and value added applications like as filling material in toys, cushions etc. Promote internal reuse of small and fine cut pieces in screen printing area, general hand cleaning by maintenance crew, burning as fuel in boiler and spill containment purpose, thereby reduction in overall waste generation. For more details refer to section D below.

small & fine

cut pieces

waste going to

landfill

Optimization of print paste preparation and control over surplus preparation

Screen printing activity generates surplus paste (expired paste) as well as regular spills. Generally certain excess is always prepared (10%).

Introduce good housekeeping and good ,management practices (QA, advance order status, tracking of inventory etc.) to contain excess preparation and avoidance of expired paste as HW (Hazardous Waste)

All 2 to 3%

reduction from

existing level

of waste

generation

< 6

months

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Opportunity Description Measure Facility/Tier/ Industry

Type

Typical

Waste

Reduction

Expected

Pay-Back

Period

Reduction in process scrap generation

During the “Outsole” production through “Injection Moulding” process in footwear industry, four types of waste such as flash, carrots, product purge and discarded product due to quality defects are generated.

Review on certain periodicity effectiveness of corrective and preventive action plans for observed deviations in off-specification product and discard supported by data from waste consolidation centre.

Footwear 1 to 2% Instant

Mould optimization for outsole production.

During the “Outsole” production in footwear industry using the “Injection Moulding” process, four types of waste such as flash, carrots, product purge and discarded product due to quality defects could be generated.

- The mould must be as tight as possible.

- The design of the mould reduces the quantity and the size of the carrots.

- Worn moulds generally produces more wastes, which needs to be replaced.

Refer section D for more details

Footwear Factory

Upto 5%

reduction

possible

Immediate

Skill development and product design change.

In Footwear and Apparel activities, cutting wastes are generated, whose quantity is directly linked to pattern design. For achieving significant

Through input specification and skill development of shop floor operator, obvious excess waste generation can be minimized, supported by data

All 1 to 1.5% Instant

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Opportunity Description Measure Facility/Tier/ Industry

Type

Typical

Waste

Reduction

Expected

Pay-Back

Period

reduction in waste, co-ordination among Planning, Designing, Procurement, Waste Consolidation Centre and shop floor personnel engaged in cutting activities are required.

from waste Consolidation Centre. For significant reduction, other team members’ involvement is required through product design change.

Recycling defective and used shoes

The consumer discarded shoes vis-à-vis factory discarded shoes are not managed effectively.

On a collective basis, introduce “Deposit” scheme through network of collection centers for a region. The collected wastes can then be taken to a central facility, where these wastes could be shredded to produce a material or surfacing Tennis, Basketball courts, playgrounds and sports tracks

Like minded Tier-1 and such equivalent factories in a region and local municipal agency

Pilot project

for CSR case

Policy

type

Avoid contamination of fabrics/yarn/trimmings

Sometimes the fabrics/yarn/trimmings are not covered leading to contamination, which then could not be used in production and need to be discarded as waste

Keep the fabrics/yarn/trimmings covered whenever possible to avoid contamination

Garment 5 to 10% Immediate

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Opportunity Description Measure Facility/Tier/ Industry

Type

Typical

Waste

Reduction

Expected

Pay-Back

Period

Segregation and labeling of fabrics/yarn/trimmings

mix-ups, e.g. the accidental use of yarn of the same color but different quality can lead to waste material

Keep fabrics/yarn/trimmings segregated and clearly labelled in separate areas of warehouse. Implement visual workplace concepts in factory.

Garment 5 to 10%

reduction in

waste

Immediate

Improve on “size mistakes”

There could be chance of size mistake and the customer would reject the order leading to waste finished products

In the case of sizing mistakes, try o “size down” or “size up” the batch of garments (e.g. garments could be sized down from “medium” to “small” and still be acceptable for customer.

Garment 15 to 20% Immediate

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D. WASTE REDUCTION OPPORTUNITIES IN TIER 2 & 3 INDUSTRY

Opportunity Description Measure Facility/Tier/ Industry

Type

Typical

Waste

Reduction

Expected

Pay-Back

Period

Reduction in hazardous waste from tannery finishing spray chamber

Currently, the compressor catering to distributed finishing spray chamber is operated at high pressure and low volume. Due to this, there is always an excess chemical consumption which ultimately forms as residue in spray chamber.

Assess the feasibility of setting the centralized compressor at “Low Pressure High Volume” mode by trial and error (2.5 to 3 Kg/sq.cm, as against 3 to 3.5 Kg/Sq.cm). This fine tuning will result in significant chemical saving and also reduced hazardous wastes generation.

Finishing area Spray Chambers

3 to 5% per

month

Immediate

Minimize over spray of dye or other finishing materials

Overspray at the finishing process could lead to waste of the finishing materials.

In finishing process, photoelectric controllers (“magic eye” sensors) minimize overspray of dyes or other finishing materials. Roller coating could be used instead of spray coating to completely avoid over-spraying. By introducing a rotary spraying system on one of its finishing machine, a company

Garment Waste spray

reduced from

40% to 20%

Less than

2 months

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Opportunity Description Measure Facility/Tier/ Industry

Type

Typical

Waste

Reduction

Expected

Pay-Back

Period

reduced its waste spray from between 40-60% to 20-40%. Cost saving of USD 40,000/annum was achieved. The cost of new system was only 6000 USD. The pay back was less than 2 months

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E. WASTE REDCUTION OPPORTUNITIES IN GENERAL FOR ALL TIERS

Opportunity Description Measure Facility/Tier/ Industry

Type

Typical

Waste

Reduction

Expected

Pay-Back

Period

Sell waste to external recycling companies

Some of the waste are sold to incinerators or given to municipal landfills which is a cost to the company. Instead opportunity to work with local recycling companies shall be explored. This opportunity highly depend on local context and regulations.

- Store plastic tubes, reels, bags and sheeting and sell them to local plastic recycler

- Store damaged cardboard boxes, fabric roll, tubes and sell them to local paper and cardboard recycler.

Tier 1, 2 & 3 100% waste

reduction in

waste

dumped in

landfill

Immediate.

Extra

income

generation.

Sell redundant stocks Redundant stocks are disposed as waste because of improper storage facilities.

Do not consider redundant stock as waste, try to find alternative customer.

Tier 1, 2 & 3 Depends on

redundant

stock

Immediate

On-site anaerobic digestion of food waste with methane capture (> 1 tonne/Day)

For factory population size > 5000 employees, on-site, composting may be not attractive. In such cases, an anaerobic digester with methane utilization mode should be contemplated.

The decentralized anaerobic digester with methane utilization is a growing market, especially in Asian countries. While opting for such system, proper thermal insulation of digester, pre-sorter, dedicated gas holder and dedicated gas

Canteen and dormitory

20 to 35% 1.5 to 2

years

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Opportunity Description Measure Facility/Tier/ Industry

Type

Typical

Waste

Reduction

Expected

Pay-Back

Period

burner with “safety” infrastructure should be integrated.

On-site compositing of food and wet waste (for < 500 Kg/day)

In some of the factories where applicable, the kitchen preparatory waste, excess and left-over food waste and all such wet wastes are currently disposed of or handed over to piggery in some cases. Handing over to the piggery attracts “Environmental Risks” as quality of such waste and handing over within certain reasonable time frame is not streamlined. This waste generation is at 60 to 100 grams/person/day.

There are organic waste converters with enhanced composting processes. On-site installation of this system will eliminate > 30% waste going to landfill. The compost produced could be used for landscaping purpose. The moisture content of waste for compost must be secured < 45%. For this, shredded paper, cutting grass (dried) etc. are added as additives and supplemented by “bio-culture” for quick production of compost. This opportunity may be not be applicable for small organization where usually composting is done offsite. For more explanation refer section D.

Canteen & Dormitory

20 to 35% < 1 year

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Opportunity Description Measure Facility/Tier/ Industry

Type

Typical

Waste

Reduction

Expected

Pay-Back

Period

Reduction in discarded office stationary wastes

In some of the factories where there is no recycling of waste paper, the A4 size and other office purpose paper is consumed and after usage discarded as waste

The usage practice to be reviewed for at-source reduction in consumption pattern by enhancing computer applications. Also assess cost of A4 size paper saving versus disposal cost for discarded paper.

Office, purchase and data processing center

10 to 30%

reduction

from existing

A4 size

consumption

Instant

Introduce “Take Back” Policy

Many chemicals are procured in which after usage generate discarded containers, barrels, carboys, bottles etc. With appropriate regulatory compliance of practices. Also key incoming raw materials come along with plastic or cardboard cone, cheese cone, packing cone etc., which again need to be disposed. Pallets are also included here. Cardboard boxes, pallets, yarn cones, etc. can be reused. In addition, Fabric and leather waste can still be used as filling material, or to make small products, etc.

Central stores and waste the Consolidation Centre can put forth a “Take Back” Policy, with an aim to reduce the number of barrels, carboys etc. handled for disposal. Wherever there is a bulk procurement option available, the same may be explored. These approaches will result in a reduction in procurement cost as well as reduced waste handling. For more explanation refer section D below.

Procurement 10 to 15%

reduction in

number of

barrels etc.

generated

Sustained

effort with

material

suppliers

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Opportunity Description Measure Facility/Tier/ Industry

Type

Typical

Waste

Reduction

Expected

Pay-Back

Period

Effective recycling of discarded cardboard, carton, marker paper and office papers

In some of the factories these wastes are not organized or segregated. These waste could be stored in centralized storage and beneficially sold for value addition.

Improve present practice for combined collection of compatible wastes, reduce volume by “baling” and effect sale as raw material to “wastepaper industries” or through vendor network for waste utilization.

Raw material go-down and product go-down sections

10 to 15% of

non-

hazardous

wastes for

enhanced

reuse

6 months

Packaging with on-site waste

The product is packed with primary, secondary and finally transportable form of wooden pallet.

For relatively low weight packaging, available card-board waste could be used to prepare stiffer cardboard pallet on-site.

Packaging area

5 to 10% < 6 months

Promote contract manufacturing firm concept

The factories are managing wastes “individually” by various on-site and off-site options.

Establish “Waste Consolidation Centre” and administer through a “Contract Manufacturing Firm” for realizing “Wealth from Waste”. Some of the options could include, White leather made out of cutting waste of leather tannery, green rubber from discarded tyre, energy from wastes etc. For more explanation refer section D.

Cluster of Tier-1, 2 & 3 and likeminded factories in a region

Pilot project

for a cluster

2 to 3

years

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Opportunity Description Measure Facility/Tier/ Industry

Type

Typical

Waste

Reduction

Expected

Pay-Back

Period

Educate and motivate employees

Waste could be generated because of lack of awareness from the staff working in production area on the concept and cost of “waste”

Educate and motivate employees regularly in concept of “waste avoidance” and proper “waste separation”. Information could be provided in the form of a booklet using infographics which is easy to understand. There could be incentives provided for employees for avoiding and managing waste. Train the employees to recognize faults and to make the right decisions.

Tier 1, 2 & 3 Upto 10%

could be

reduced

6 to 12

months

Use of reusable articles in canteen

If the factories have large canteen and of the employees are provided with canteen food, then there could be chance that canteen are using use & throw materials.

Canteen could start using reusable articles instead of use & throw. Staff using the plates and cups must be educated on best use of the plates and cups so that water used for cleaning could be also reduced.

Tier 1, 2 & 3 Upto 100%

reduction in

use & throw

waste

3 to 5

months.

Have a good QA (Quality Assurance)

Sometime the finished products don’t meet the customer specification and are rejected.

Implement a good QA system with process and people to keep to customer’s

Tier 1, 2 & 3 Upto 5% Immediate

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Opportunity Description Measure Facility/Tier/ Industry

Type

Typical

Waste

Reduction

Expected

Pay-Back

Period

system to reduce rejects

requirement and specification to reduce reject levels (be aware of your capabilities and stay within them)

Residual kitchen oil as bio-diesel raw material

Kitchen activity generates residual edible oil (after frying), which is currently disposed along with wastewater or wet garbage.

Introduce proper waste collection system for spent kitchen oil and effect sale as fuel value (Bio-diesel input) by vendor selection.

Tier 1, 2 & 3 100% kitchen oil waste eliminated entering wastewater or wet garbage

instant

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F. DETAIL EXPLANATION OF OPPORTUNITIES

Some of the opportunities explained in the above table need more explanation

for better understanding and they are explained in the section below using some

figures.

1. Waste Consolidation Centre

The factories have a centralized “Waste Consolidation Centre” from where on-

site decisions for reuse/recycle are made and decisions for various off-site

options like sale, reuse/recycle and physical shredding or destructions are

made, including secured disposal to notified agency. At-source waste reduction

demand teamwork and long term product development strategy, involving

Planning, Designing and Procurement departments for achieving a significant/

tangible waste reduction measures. The obvious wastes that can be reduced

at-source and wastes that are currently disposed into landfill are concerns for

improvement options.

2. Optimize the moulds during the outsole production using injection

moulding process.

Waste is generated during “Outsole” production activity through the “Injection

Moulding” process. Four types of waste are generated, they are, flash,

carrots, product purge and discarded product due to quality defects.

Due to the pressure, the thermoplastic material EVA (Ethylene Vinyl

Acetate) can flow out between the two parts of the mould, which is called

“Flash”. This will be regularly generated

The mould contains a tube through which the material is injected. The

“Carrots” are considered as waste. This will also be regularly generated and

linked to quality of injected material.

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When the injection machine stops working (rest, Team change etc.) or when

the production changes the colour, some product purges are generated

(cannot be used afterwards)

The final “Outsole” product, could be defective and discarded as waste.

All the above waste generated can be reduced by the following options:

The mould must be as tight as possible

The design of the mould reduces the quantity and size of the “Carrots”

Worn-out moulds generally produces more wastes

Product discard depends on control over “QA/QC” on line production

process

3. Take Back Policy

Reduce waste in key production areas (cutting area, buffing area, EVA scrap,

product discard etc.) by introduction of “Take Back” policy to Closed Loop

Materials (CLM) by the CLM Vendors and water based chemical containers by

Chemical vendors, on-site composting or anaerobic digestion with methane

utilization and on-site waste to energy are possible options, as presented

below:

Figure 1: Take Back Policy: Waiting for pick-up

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4. Plasma type Pyrolysis

Plasma pyrolysis is one of the technologies which could be opted for disposal

of plastic waste. In Plasma pyrolysis, high temperature is produced using

plasma torch in oxygen starved environment to destroy plastic waste efficiently

and in an eco-friendly manner. Pyrolysis of plastic (polyethylene) provides 90%

combustible gases. It would be appreciable to recover energy to make plasma

pyrolysis economically viable.

This technology is used for conversion of combustible waste into energy. In

India, a trial plant was studied using 15 Kg/hr, tested for various emissions and

allowed commercial exploitation of such technology from waste to energy.

Case Study: One plant near Pune (India) generates about 2 MW power using

not less than 5 T/hr waste which is made up of 80% solid hazardous &

combustible wastes (mostly shredded plastics, cotton wastes etc.) and 20%

liquid Hazardous wastes under “TSDF – Treatment, Storage and Disposal

Facility” scheme.

An experiment was conducted by the Central Pollution Control Board of India

to study the economic feasibility of plasma type pyrolysis technology2. The

results of experiment proved that in the case of 100% plastic waste being

pyrolyzed, the chemical energy released was 2 to 3 times more than the energy

needed to pyrolyze the raw waste, where as in case of 100% cotton the

released energy is almost equal to energy spent.

2 Report on plastic waste disposal through plasma pyrolysis technology by the Central Pollution Control Board of India. Dec 2013 report.

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5. Reuse of cutting waste

In some of the factories the following practices are observed for reuse of

cutting waste and this best practice could be replicated in many factories

where applicable.

a) The cutting waste is collected and stored in dedicated area

b) People are deployed to segregate “All White cuttings”

c) The remaining cutting waste is sold for other value added product making

d) White cutting are sent to “Spinning & Weaving” factory, where the waste is

reportedly shredded further to get small pieces and then subjected to

tearing to get loose fibers. Such loose fibers are then blended along with

virgin fibers, then the regular process of spinning and weaving continues.

e) Some of the “Mixed Cutting” waste are re-used to produce “Mixed Fiber”.

Such material then can be used for making plastic concrete or geo textiles

or upholstery adjuvant or feed material for “Wet Wipes” etc.

The following infrastructure/ technology would be need to implement the above

mentioned beast practice:

a) Cutting machine for conversion of fabric cut waste into desired 6mm to 20

mm or equivalent.

b) Tearing machine to further loosen the pieces to get fibers (mixture of fiber

dust & short fibers, unopened pieces, fibers with different length etc)

c) Sieve to get desired fiber mix of desired specifications – reclaimed fibers as

product

d) Use this reclaimed fiber to produce value added products like plastic

concrete, erosion protection stuff, geo textiles, upholstery material ingredient

or as feed to “Wet Wipes” etc

6. Organic Waste Converter

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Waste to Food Composter or commonly known as “Organic Waste Converter”

is a pre-engineered product system available in modular capacity of 250 kg/day

of curing capacity. It converts the organic waste into compost by reducing its

volume to almost 90% of the original. Additives like dried leaves, shredded

papers, coir pith waste etc. (for moisture control) and microbial cultures are

added to shorten the composting period. Heat generated during composting

activity is preserved by providing insulation. The increased temperature kills

pathogens and also accelerates the composting process. This is a continuous

process and is controlled electronically. A blower is provided to supply fresh air

to microorganisms. The exhaust is led to activated carbon filter. This is suitable

for canteens and residential apartments.

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Figure 2: Waste Food Composter

7. Caustic Recovery using NF (Nano Filtration) System (Koch Membrane)

The NF system separates water, sodium hydroxide and mono-valent ions from

traces of organic compounds using NF membranes with a pore size between

those of reverse osmosis and ultra-filtration membranes, hence providing a

useful separation technology. Commercial cases demonstrate recovery of

caustic from the alkaline wastewater from the mercerization of cotton fabric.

98% volumetric recovery has been achieved with NF membranes. Since NaOH

recovery is proportional to volumetric recovery, appropriate flux rate must be

arrived by conducting trials of factory situation. The flux rate of 18 to 20

Litres/SQM/hr has been tested using SelRo (MPT-34). This membrane is a

polysulfone type membrane with a negative surface charge by chemical

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grafting of negatively charged hydrophilic groups onto a substrate. It has a

molecular cut-off of 200 and is highly resistant to alkali up to an 8% caustic

solution.

Figure 3: Caustic Purification prior to Evaporator (Mercerization application)

8. Dupont Caustic Recovery System

The Du Pont Separation Systems’ Caustic recovery system is based on

CARRE® patented filtration technology, which combines porous stainless steel

tubing and state-of-the-art, formed-in place membranes. For more than ten

years, this technology has provided innovative raw material recovery systems

for the textile industry that are durable and easy to maintain. A large-scale

commercial installation has been operating for several years in caustic recovery

at a major South Carolina textile finishing plant.

9. Custom Designed Caustic Recover System

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Contaminated caustic from the scour saturator and/or the mercerizer range is

fed to the membrane system. The membrane system filters and cleans up to

95% of the caustic feed stream while concentrating the contaminants. The

clean caustic is recycled directly to the scouring and bleaching processes as

well as to the dye house. Clean caustic also can be sent to evaporators for

concentration and then reused in mercerization. The concentrated

contaminants from the feed system are discharged to waste treatment.

10. Size Recovery Systems (Applicable for Vertical Textile Mills)

The size recovery is a very good business proposition, but demands integration

efforts between Weaving” and Wet Processing complexes. Generally,

application of membrane separation technologies for in-process application

also demands few trials to ascertain field specific fouling issues and extent of

commercial recovery. Top management and individual profit centers (Weaving

and Wet Processing) have to innovatively think through cultural process

change for exploiting the size recovery approach. These measures would call

for special focus on proper fabric design, operating equipment to minimize

sizing requirements, selection of appropriate homogenous size chemical,

proper size mixing and proper worker training/attitude.

Recovery of synthetic (PVA: Poly Vinyl Alcohol) size can be performed using

membrane filtration equipment. Size recovery is not widely practiced in the

textile industry, however, for a variety of reasons. A few successful size

recovery systems are currently in operation, but these systems can recover

only certain types of sizes, notably PVA and Poly Vinyl Acetate. PVA accounts

for approximately one third of total size consumption in textiles. The bulk of size

used is Penetrose & tapioca Starch, which degrades during de-sizing and

cannot be recovered. The present and proposed system is illustrated below:

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*USD/year: US Dollar / Year

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*USD/year: US Dollar / Year

11. Rotary Biological Contractor

This sewage reclamation technology is very popular for decentralized

application (capacity less than 1500 m3/day) to secure wastewater recycling of

high grade quality. It consumes 1/10th the energy that of any conventional

treatment system, pre-engineered, modular in nature, automatic in operation,

demands extremely low level of spares and aesthetically appealing. As it is a

compact package plant, it can be located below ground level or upon roof top

or in any layout configuration.

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Figure 4: RBC: Rotary Biological Contractor

Compact pre-engineered

RBC installation with

underground buffer tank

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A. REFERENCES

Sustainability Reporting Trends 2011 https://www.globalreporting.org/resourcelibrary/GRI-Reporting-Trends-2011.pdf World Data Center http://www.icsu-wds.org/services/data-portal United Nations Statistics Division http://unstats.un.org/unsd/environment/qindicators.htm Measuring Sustainable Development http://unstats.un.org/unsd/broaderprogress/pdf/Measuring_sustainable_development%20(UNECE,OECD,Eurostat).pdf Sustainability Management & Reporting http://www.unepfi.org/fileadmin/documents/smr_benefits_dec2006_01.pdf EIRIS http://www.eiris.org/files/research%20publications/ClimateChangeTrackerAsia09.pdf ADB – The Economics of Climate Change http://www.climatechange-foodsecurity.org/uploads/ABD_ec_climate-change-se-asia.pdf Oxfam Research – Review of Climate Change & Adaption Practices in South Asia http://www.oxfam.org/sites/www.oxfam.org/files/rr-climate-change-adaptation-south-asia-161111-en.pdf UNFCCC – Kyoto Protocol http://unfccc.int/kyoto_protocol/doha_amendment/items/7362.php Waste generated in the leather products (UNIDO) UNEP – Global Partnership on Waste Management http://www.unep.org/gpwm/InformationPlatform/WasteManagementGuidelines/tabid/104478/Default.aspx MIT Sloan – Management Review http://sloanreview.mit.edu/reports/sustainability-strategy/commitment/ World Economic Forum – Sustainable Tomorrow’s Report

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http://www3.weforum.org/docs/WEF_CI_SustainabilityForTomorrowsConsumer_Report_2009.pdf

http://www.epa.gov/iaq/combust.html

B. LIST OF FIGURES

Figure 1: Take Back Policy: Waiting for pick-up ............................................................ 32

Figure 2: Waste Food Composter ................................................................................. 36

Figure 3: Caustic Purification prior to Evaporator (Mercerization application) ............... 37

Figure 4: RBC: Rotary Biological Contractor ................................................................. 41