dragon jagdpanzer iv in 1:144 vignette

8/19/2019 Dragon Jagdpanzer IV in 1:144 Vignette

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then proceeded to the base dark yellow color. My own mix of Revell enamel colors resulted too green, so I post-shaded most o

odel with Humbrol #94 to correct the hue, hiding most of my pre-shading (what is becoming an usual practice to me). I started drafting template to paint the roller wheels, but after painting one, I gave up and painted it without any masking device thrustin

y Sagyma airbrush and a couple of Vallium pills to keep my hands steady (just kidding...).


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n a closer inspection, I noted that much of my pre-shading was actually preserved. And since I haven't retouched the lower aer

uess it will be easier to dirty them afterwards. The only major problem I foresee now is how to paint those tiny tools on the

eck...


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ext came the camouflage. I couldn't be sure about using silly putty masks or airbrushing free-hand. In the end, I decided fo

tter, probably thinking I was a great airbrush artist. Well, I was wrong, again, but no way I'll put this model in the caustic soda

ow... My major mistake was actually to forget old rules of airbrush engagement. In my case, I'm talking about the difficulty in sprery thin lines with flat paints. Nei Biazetto later warned me about that... too late. I used Testors Leather (#1736) for the brown

nd a darkened mix of Beret Green (#1171) for the green streaks.


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he barrel, spare wheels and light were attached to the model at this point. I then proceeded to the flat coat. I tried Humbrol Matt

n the square glass bottle) for the first time, and it is a great substitute for the old Humbrol Flat Varnish (in metal tins), which h

story of yellowing with time. The model was drybrushed with a dark sand color mix using artist oils. I avoided overdoing it in sumall model.

hanks to a tip from my friend Victor Tavares, the dark spots of the tools were then "painted" using a sharp 4B pencil. The flat f

akes the graphite to adhere very well, and you have more control than using a brush. It results still too bright for the scale, tho

o I recoated the affected areas with a mist of flat varnish:


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uring this stage I also painted the exhaust system using Testors Model Master Rust color straight from the bottle. The weath

en started. The first step was to apply pastel chalk diluted in alcohol as an overall coat to the lower surfaces of the hull, wheels

ome recesses. Of course I concentrated the effect on the wheels and rollers. I used only two tones of brown, the darker b

pplied first, and the lighter on dabbed on top of it.

used basically the same process to weather the tracks, except that they were painted with Vallejo Hull Red (#70985) first. I man

o remove the base color in several places during the handling, and they will need a touch up later. The tracks were installed afte

verall wash with Burnt Sienna, followed by the pastels. It wasn't a simple task. I fitted the tracks without the roller wheels and

fter adjusting the tracks I glued them. The kit has a small flaw under the rear fenders: once the rear wheel is installed, the track


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in the slot left (even without paint - guess how I know...). I did my best, but I couldn't align them perfectly. All this beca

ecided not to dry fit the tracks to avoid breaking them as I did with the Hetzer. Bad luck, I guess. I used a black artists oil

ashed around the exhaust pipe to simulate oil stains. Since it dries flat, I brushed some diluted Future over it to make it glossy.

ubbed dark grey over the rubber parts of the wheels and along the roller paths on the inside of the tracks.

he weathering then continued with the touch up on the tacks with CMK Dark Rust pigments. As a final touch on the tracks, s

umbrol Brushed Steel Metal Cote was dry brushed. A number of spots received very subtle rust marks, and I also applied

reaks along the hull walls using a very diluted lightened mix of the base Dark Yellow color. The cannon barrel opening rece

ack pastel treatment.


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he model is now virtually done. At this point the paint chipping is still missing, but I decided to do it only after the installation o

de armor plates.

fter a little break, I resumed the work by painting a couple of items that I missed: the hook on the right front fender and the jac

e rear deck. I also installed the lateral armor plates, a couple of retouches here and there and it's done:


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he finishing phase consisted of making a decent display base for this model. I sourced inspiration in a 1/35 diorama published o

d Verlinden Magazine. The subject was the same, but of course I had to make a few concessions due to the scale.

started by stealing a small wood block from a game I found in my daughters room - perfect size for a primary base (a secon

ore aesthetically pleasing wood base with plaque will be added later). I built up a terrain relief with thin layers of acrylic paste.

ea is to depict a road side where the little Jagdpanzer is sneaking for his next prey, protected by some bushes, of course. There

small declive was added to simulate the road wall. I painted everything with semi-gloss black. The perimeter of the base

asked and I proceeded to the ground work.

fter applying an overall coat of diluted wood glue, I sprinkled very fine sand on the road and microbaloons on the remaining a

he sand provides a more smooth finish, typical of wet or high traffic areas, while the microbaloons deliver a random roughness t

round surface. More importantly, this simple measure dissimulates any artificial markings left while spreading the paste. The a

here the tracks would rest were masked and covered with thin modeling putty. While still wet, I made track marks using a pie

astic with suitable width. This was done only where the marks would be visible. After leaving the putty drying for a few minu

emoved the masks. I then primed everything with acrylics dark brown color.

he vegetation was made using only three materials: static grass, Woodland Scenics turf and scrubbing pads. The static grass

pplied in all non-traffic areas to provide the ground vegetation. I didn't bother the color of the grass - it will be painted later any

mall pieces of scrubbing pad were stretched and glued in place to act as an armature for the bushes. And since the high vegeta

hould look relatively dense, some turf was applied around the base of the armature.


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he coloring was done exclusively with my thrusty Badger 100, using browns and greens acrylic paints. Don't ask me which on

end to use old paints of my stash for these jobs, before they dry completely. So I ressurected some Pactra, Tamiya and Testors

ormulae). The first step was to apply a very dark green to the areas covered with static grass. This provides a base green co

ill be selectively lightened later) and false shadows for the high vegetation. Next I added a very thin layer of yellow over the

reen, avoiding the areas under the bushes, so that the grass exposed to the sun became more vivid. I then proceeded with sev

in mixes of brown and light earth colors on the areas not covered with grass.


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he last step was the addition of the foliage to the bush armature. I used Microscale Foil Adhesive and Woodland Scenics turf. O

ry, the foliage was misted with green and brown colors to cut its synthetic shine. In the end I also added a wood fence section, u

ood pieces from a matchbox case, properly stained and drybrushed. I guess this was my fastest base ever - a couple of hours

l it took.


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he base masking was removed and the little Jäger was then laid over its base:


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m still looking for a suitable wood base to put the scence. Only then I'll fix the Jagdpanzer to the ground. Meanwhile, I declared

odel done. Here's a good pic to give you an idea of its real size:


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on't ask me why I do these little things. It is fun, and I'd better to do them while my eyes allow me... And besides, now I can

at I'm able to finish a model in the same month I started it.

Technical file

Kit: - Dragon #14029

Addi tions: - Side armor plates scratchbuilt from plastic card

Basic colors: - Primer: Acrylic automotive primer.

- Black: Panzer Grey automotive lacquer

- Dark yellow: Humbrol #94

- Green: Testors #1171 (darkened)

- Brown: Testors #1736

- Clear coat: Testors Metalizer sealer

- Rust: Testors #1185

Notes:

ato Marczak © 2008
mailto:[email protected]?subject=Antrvm%20Ratvs%20-%20Dragon%20Jagdpanzer%20IVmailto:[email protected]?subject=Antrvm%20Ratvs%20-%20Dragon%20Jagdpanzer%20IV

dragon jagdpanzer iv in 1:144 vignette

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